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COVER: Photo by Kári Sverriss
green showroom 19 — 21 january 15 Postbahnhof, Berlin
IF YOU DO IT RIGHT, IT WILL LAST FOREVER Postbahnhof, Berlin, 19 – 21 January 15
Dear readers,
# Editorial
HAPPY NEW YEAR !!! We hope you started well into the new year 2015 with a lot of power and wishes for the next twelve months and most of your expectations will come true. In a couple of days Berlin will turn into a fashion metropolis again. At BERLIN FASHION WEEK designers from across the world will present their Autumn/Winter 2015 collections at MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN, at trade fairs like PREMIUM, SEEK, GREENSHOWROOM, ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN and many more as well as at plenty of other events. For this issue some of the opinion leaders told us about their events and highlights. In our # SELECTION we present on more than 40 pages some of our favourite SUSTAINABLE FASHION labels. Designers and representatives of eleven brands answered our questions and give you a lot of insights into sustainable fashion. If you are in Berlin and you like to see the wonderful collections of some of the brands, visit GREENSHOWROOM and ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN. For our # HOTSPOTS we visited the new gallery HOUSE OF DAR by JOHNY DAR. It was exciting talking to the artist and designer and becoming part of his universe. Additionally to the interview you find in this issue an editorial by Johny Dar. To get you in the right mood for 2015 we present you 4 different fashion editorials for the perfect winter style by photographers KÁRI SVERRISS, ISAVELLA BEJARANO, MONIKA MASLANEK, MAREN SCHABHÜSER and a special editorial by our photography director MARC HUTH. Enjoy our first 2015 issue … Best, Tom, Marc and the whole SUPERIOR team
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#
SELECTION
36 #
SUSTAINABLE FASHION
VISUAL ARTS
18 26
Marc Huth
»S/HE«
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Kári Sverriss
»THE STREETS«
Susanna Lencinas & Johny Dar
»ME, MYSELF & MY ALTER EGO«
18 112
Isabella Bejarano
»WINTER BLOOM«
Monika Maslanek
»FIRST LANDING«
146
18 120
18 134 Maren Schabhüser
»SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS«
Fashion magazines? We’ve got a million free ones. Issuu.com
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VISUAL ARTS
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EDITORIALS DECEMBER
160 Vadim SkyVood
»BLADE RUNNER«
#
»WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE«
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EVENTS
94
GREENSHOWROOM & ETHICAL FASHION SHOW
98 PREMIUM
#
Susann Jehnichen
SEEK
102
HOTSPOTS
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shirt BAGAZ bra HUNKEMÖLLER pants ANNE GORKE shoes REALITY STUDIO
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S/HE photography by Marc Huth photography assistant Nico Ernst concept & production by Elsa Sonntag styling by Kristian Barella Greve hair & make up by KATI MERTSCH set assistant Victoria Richter -27-
model Elena G. @ Mega Model Agency
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jacket TIGER OF SWEDEN
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dress SAMMLER BERLIN shoes UNITED NUDE
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coat BOBBY COLADE pants BLK Denim
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jacket Minimum x Dúné dress ALICE’S PIG
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dress AUGUSTIN TEBOUL
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coat UMASAN dress MINUS
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jacket SAMMLER BERLIN shirt ANNE GORKE pants FRANZISKA MICHAEL
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jacket AUGUTSIN TEBOUL pants RAU BELRIN shoes UNITED NUDE
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# SELECTION SUSTAINABLE FASHION Our preview of sustainable fashion brands A/W 15
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JANUARY 2015
BLOND & BIEBER
BOXX
DEEPMELLO
FARRAH FLOYD
FORMAT
GOODSOCIETY
JOHANNA RIPLINGER
KANCHA
L'HERBE ROUGE
ROYAL BLUSH
SABINE FEUERER
Learn more about sustainable fashion
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Interview with Rasa Weber by Tom Felber & Marina Lacic
BLOND & BIEBER BLOND&BIEBER is a cooperation which combines textile- and product design. By means of concept, experiment and a strong visual approach the duo (though educated as product-developers) would always choose for a narrative approach to design over a purely practical understanding of production. BLOND&BIEBER are searching for subtle expressions of modern rituals and processes. Their research can be understood as a tightly woven mesh, which lays the foundation to all their projects. Textile is used as the embodiment of a versatile material which can be seen as a key to their story-telling. # How did it come that you established a brand with a sustainable fashion focus? As designers we see ourselves as part of a new generation. Our design studio BLOND&BIEBER has put its focus on designconcepts and material development. As part of this new generation it is important for us to make people understand, that we are not -38-
working under the strict guidelines of one discipline only. We are originally educated as textile designer and product designer. What we try to develop in our work, is a language which includes numerous creative fields like interior, fashion and photography along with a strongly research-driven approach. For our project "Algaemy" we collaborated with the German research institution” Fraunhofer Institut”, which pursues research on the lipids (the fats) of microalgae. We do work with a network of creative folks for our projects, as we think that the days of the designer genius are long gone. For the "Algaemy" color palette we developed conceptual clothing with German fashion designer Ylenia Gortana, to show the possibilities of the material. Additionally we developed first prototypes of shoes with the German shoe manufacturer Trippen. Our network gives access to a certain way of narration, aesthetics and concept development. The key to our work is storytelling, in which we fuse material innovation with traditional forms of working. We call this approach "future crafts".
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# What does sustainability mean to you, how do you define it? Sustainability for our generation is a matter of course, rather than an explicit topic. In all our projects we start from the material itself and develop a story out of that. We try to create stories which form cultural habits and affect people in an emotional way. Our approach of "future crafts" - interweaving innovation with the warmth of traditional crafts - this makes the customer relate to the object in a very intimate and personal way. This dialogue between the consumer and the object is a truly sustainable approach to us. In the end we keep those objects that we love for a lifetime. # What do you do in your daily life to protect the environment? In our studio-work we are very aware of our choice of materials. They have to make sense in a narrative way. Materials are never purely practical, they tell their own story and evoke certain emotions. When we design a piece of furniture for example, we never just chose for a comfortable solution, neither do
photos Zoya Bassi & LUKAS OLFE
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we search for an "ecological" material only, what we search for and try to achieve is an inherent quality of the material, that brings along its own natural color palette, its own material qualities. Often nature is smarter than most technologies. Therefore untreated or raw materials usually bring along exactly the qualities we search for. Most processed materials lose their original inherent beauty and quality, by chemical pigments, additional impregnation, fixatives and coating. In that sense most often less is more. # What is more important for you as a fashion designer – design or sustainability? We always seek for a coherent story. This design story starts with the material. We always try to include scientific research, which puts our original knowledge into a future perspective and combines our creative knowledge with the state of the art in a technological sense. Eventually we try to translate this knowledge into a context that the consumer can relate to. It is essential to understand that thinking in future concepts does not imply sterile aesthetics and should never be cold. The imperfection of handmade crafts puts technology into a context that is truly livable. In the end there is no greater goal to us than to be part of this new generation of designers, who try to create a landscape of objects that we want to keep for a long time. # Coming to your brand. What is the story behind “BLOND&BIEBER”? Studio BLOND&BIEBER is a Berlin-based conceptual design studio, with Essi Johanna Glomb (1989) and Rasa Weber (1989) as head-designers. It is a cooperation which meets on the border between textile- and
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product design. By means of concept, experiment and a strong visual approach we would always choose for a narrative approach to design over a purely practical understanding of production. We are searching for subtle expressions of modern rituals and processes. Our research can be understood as a tightly woven mesh, which lays the foundation to all our projects. As a young design studio based in Berlin we think that the design scene is about to change. Although our approach of working in a conceptual way, which goes beyond the strict lines of one discipline, is quite unusual, we do get wonderful feedback for our projects. We recently won the Bundespreis Ecodesign, the make me! Award and are nominated for the German Design Award 2015. It seems that this new way of working is strongly needed in the German design scene and not yet that established. It is part of our strategy to make clients and companies understand that we never just create an end product which can be sold just like that. Together with companies we try to develop stories and strategies to bring new materials and new stories to the market. We like to see design as creating stories and landscapes rather than objects. # Sustainable fashion includes ecological and ethical aspects. How do you make sure that your fashion meets these standards? We pursue a bottom-up approach which starts with the material itself. We don´t necessarily work with labeling for the ecological standards of the products, although the Bundespreis Ecodesign has proven that our work is actually very sustainable. We believe in material innovation, which has to be sensitive and not purely technological. The origin of a material, the beauty of its pure state – that is what drives us.
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# Which barriers do you have to face in the production of sustainable fashion? The only barrier that we do face is the communication with companies we are collaborating with is that we have to make our clients understand that it is never the easiest way to include our material concepts in to a bigger production scale. It requires a sensitive and careful approach. What we need is a new company philosophy which embraces a slow growth in order to handle the products and production carefully. It is really an educational task we are facing there. We do wish that our products are available for the costumer and we believe that the benefit of those material innovations is enormous in the long run, but it takes an investment into material development and research. For our "Algaemy" color palette this is true just as well. We want to see products on the market with those new natural colors, made by microalgae. Of course it is easier for any company to produce products with their common chemical pigments. The quality of those natural pigments from microalgae has to be told to the costumer. This is where we need the storytelling. People have to understand the hidden qualities of natural materials. We are sure that they will love it, as soon as they discover them.
world, as we see fashion as a great application for our color palette. The design world was interested just as well. The Bundespreis Ecodesign, which is established by the German Ministry for the Environment, has proven that the topic touches upon a political understanding of design. Further we have great feedback from the scientific world as they usually have a hard time to translate their research topics for a wider audience. # Can you already tell us a little bit about your upcoming autumn/winter 2015 collection? At the moment we are busy with different project. On the one hand we try to bring "Algaemy" to the next step to make it available on the market together with companies. Therefore we are searching for suitable collaborations. Further we are developing a new project which will be hopefully presented in Milano the coming spring. It will be again a combination of a traditional and innovative material approach. Again we will take a look at a material misfit.
# What is the typical “BLOND&BIEBER” style? Who is your target group? As a design studio we don't pursue a certain style, as we think styling is only made to live for an instant. We try to create coherent stories that derive from a topic which moves us. Those stories can be told for a long time. We are always surprised about the wide range of people who are interested in our projects. "Algaemy" did affect the fashion
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www.blondandbieber.com
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Interview with Constanze Janusch by Tom Felber & Viktoria von der Way
BOXX Constanze Janusch and Cosima Wachs work in the fashion scene for over 20 years. In 2013, both women decided to establish their fashion company BOXX (WalkBoxx & SilkBoxx). # How did it come that you established a brand with a sustainable fashion focus? We have worked in fashion for over 20 years now. I, Constanze Janusch, the designer behind the collections, studied design but prior to that, I trained at a couture house, which had a lasting effect on me. And so it was that I began with a couture collection in 1993. Given the skills required for couture work, it makes sense to use the best available materials for it. And for me these are without doubt natural materials. In 2013 we chose two materials, fulled material (100% new wool) and pure silk, and used them to create two retail collections. The fulled material collection comes alive through the texture and variety of finishes as well as the versatility of the pieces. The vibrant silk -42-
collection features my own exclusive photo art prints (ConstanzeJanuschDesignPhotoArt) that offer a special take on the microcosm. For years, these materials have been our “favorites“ because of their expressive quality, their appearance, their wear ability and much more. The sustainability of these natural materials was perhaps initially a welcome albeit instinctive happy coincidence, but it is now an absolute must. # What does sustainability mean to you, how do you define it? Sustainability nowadays has totally different connotations from 20 years ago. Essentially a byword for “biodegradable“ in the past, it now encompasses many other aspects. These days, design, manufacture, patterning and production must take account of environmental and social impact. From the starting material through to the finished product, all those involved in the process are expected to take responsibility accordingly.
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photos BOXX
www.walkboxx.com www.silkboxx.com | visit at GREENSHOWROOM
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# What do you do in your daily life to protect the environment? For me and my partner Cosima Wachs even the small things count: not wasting water, not making unnecessary car journeys, recycling waste and choosing organic products where possible. “Made in Europe“ is also important for us, and we are likewise passionate about supporting conservation efforts. We live and work with nature and do our bit to protect and respect it wherever we can. # What is more important for you as a fashion designer – design or sustainability? As a designer, design must come first for me. But the issue of sustainability is becoming increasingly significant and high profile for everyone. Nonetheless we are in the business of high fashion and it is very exciting to combine it with sustainability. # Coming to your brand. What is the story behind “BOXX”? The BOXX idea came to us while on holiday in early 2013. We wanted to bring our long-standing fashion industry skills and experience to a wider audience. The exclusive and very carefully selected CJ Fashion couture collection is only available in our showroom. Contact with customers is very personal and we receive direct and spontaneous feedback
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as a result. We want to take this successful concept and share it with customers beyond the confines of our showroom. It is a holistic approach that envisages the complete package – the Boxx, if you will. This Boxx is brimming with ideas and inspiration. It is lively but very down-to-earth, just like us. It brings together our best pieces in a small but highend collection by the name of WalkBoxx & SilkBoxx. Nobody does it like we do. # Sustainable fashion includes ecological and ethical aspects. How do you make sure that your fashion meets these standards? We work very closely with all our suppliers, from the outer fabric down to the buttons. We know them all personally, know how they work and have built up good relationships over the years. The design and pattern work takes place in our own studio and workshop. The production process in Europe is also very close to our hearts and we make personal site visits several times a year. We also have the corresponding certification for most of our materials for supply chain transparency. # Which barriers do you have to face in the production of sustainable fashion? The biggest barrier is actually organizing the certificates. We frequently choose to work with small, flexible and very committed partners for whom however the cost
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of certification is often prohibitively high. We also import the best silk from China, for example, but certification can be a problem across international borders. Indeed the cost in terms of time and money is enormous for all those involved. # What is the typical “BOXX” style? Who is your target group? We do not think in terms of categories and target groups and we shy away from pigeonholing people. First and foremost we create fashion. Then we see people who are curious, who love life and everything it throws at them, who are keen to try something new once in a while – these are our customers. So we don’t have a certain ’type’ in mind, we simply adore sleek tailoring and the cool, modern look. For us, fashion and clothes must make people happy above all else. # Can you already tell us a little bit about your upcoming autumn/winter 2015 collection? Our new autumn/winter collection is all about contrasts: earthy fulled tweeds and the finest silk twill, washable, laser-cut and used-look natural leather and futuristiclooking silk crêpe. Despite appearing seemingly effortless, both the fulled material and silk collections are full of real treats.
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Interview with Dr. Anne-Christin Bansleben by Tom Felber & Marina Lacic
DEEPMELLO DEEPMELLO is developing exclusive fashion and lifestyle products together with newcomers and well-known designers. They use only high-quality materials, for example their self-developed rhubarb leather as well as other luxurious materials like organic silks, organic satins and organza. Far from being “eco-chic”, the brand is individual with a certain degree of minimalism and well thought-out functionality.
health-damaging chrome tanning. After several years of research our idea became a product – Rhabarberleder®. We have launched a spin-off, founded our own company and now we sell innovative leather as well as exciting leather based products. The name DEEPMELLO means "deep-tender" and stands for the softness and the uniqueness of the Rhabarberleder®.
# How did it come that you established a brand with a sustainable fashion focus?
# What does sustainability mean to you, how do you define it?
We have been working as a team (originally we are all scientists) for several years in the same research group under the same issue "rhubarb". Our approach was at the beginning of a purely scientific nature. We knew theoretically that rhubarb roots contain functional compounds, which might be able to be used for tanning leather. During the research, we noticed that there is a need to find new alternatives to substitute the conventional environmental and
For us it is important to produce under reasonable conditions concerning safety as well as environmental and personal health. Also one should consume consciously, try to safe natural resources, be innovative and always improve and develop your products and ideas interdisciplinary thinking.
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photos DEEPMELLO
DEEPMELLO - "CITY" Collection S/S 15 -47-
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# What do you do in your daily life to protect the environment? Now my nutrition is almost organic. I try whenever it is possible to use public transport, consume less and well-considered and I wear primarily sustainable clothing. # What is more important for you as a fashion designer – design or sustainability? For me, design and sustainability have to go hand in hand. We should only produce sustainable fashion, but it should also meet costumers requirements concerning design and style. Otherwise the products are quite likely not negotiable. The fact that sustainable fashion is successful as conventional fashion is already shown by many designers. # Coming to your brand. What is the story behind “DEEPMELLO”? We all come from a scientific background: we developed the innovative material by ourselves during many years of research and finally had the vision to establish it in everyday life: fashion, lifestyle, interior and automotive industry. We also want to show the huge potential of one plant - the rhubarb. We are proud to have developed an environmental friendly leather alternative – tanned by rhubarb, to the leather which is tanned by
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chrome. To make it useable for our clients we distribute our Rhabarberleder® worldwide. Meanwhile our leather is used by many designers for their own fashion collections. Also our own fashion brand DEEPMELLO is developing really well. Our current working field is among other things to use the above-ground biomass as a basis for functional natural cosmetics. This development helps us to use the whole plant. # Sustainable fashion includes ecological and ethical aspects. How do you make sure that your fashion meets these standards? Our production is located in Germany. We know all our business partners and we know about the labor standards, occupational health and safety. We know further that they pay fair wages. We only work with companies that fulfill those standards and we have convinced ourselves, that the philosophy of our partners fits to ours. # Which barriers do you have to face in the production of sustainable fashion? It is not easy to find producers of leather garments and bags in Germany. But our philosophy is not only to create the leather in Germany, also the products of our collection. This is the biggest challenge for us because it´s much more difficult to process leather as
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for example cotton fabrics and many crafts extinct due to the increasing production in Asia. # What is the typical “DEEPMELLO” style? Who is your target group? We represent a straightforward, timeless style and the material we use is very valuable. DEEPMELLO stands for a very mellow, infinitely soft, mysteriously, slightly arrogant, but above all unique style. Slightly arrogant means that our target group is the self-confident and strong women. # Can you already tell us a little bit about your upcoming autumn/winter 2015 collection? The upcoming season focuses again the women. We present a new jacket from Rhabarberleder®, as well as a skirt and shirts, which are combined with organic satin and linen jersey. We also developed our Bicolor Bags and added new color combinations. The idea behind the new collection is a casual office style that can also easily be converted into a stylish evening outfit.
www.deepmello.com | visit at GREENSHOWROOM
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Interview with Bojana Draca by Tom Felber & Marina Lacic
FARRAH FLOYD Trained as a fashion and textile designer, and holding a master degree in Sustainability in Fashion, Bojana Draca is a designer with a recognizable style. In her work, she combines strong concepts with technical skills and sustainable design strategies. She has developed a special zero-waste cutting technique, using only rectangle pattern pieces. The new solutions that come up, combined with a powerful concept idea are the most significant features of her brand FARRAH FLOYD. # How did it come that you established a brand with a sustainable fashion focus? I studied both fashion and textile design. During that time, my focus was always on textile, as it was a material that I could express myself the best. Fashion was interesting because I could use it to transfer 2D fabrics into 3D shapes, more in a sculpturing way, but I didn’t like everything else that comes with it. The fact that seasons are coming and going so fast made my work -50-
seem meaningless and so easily replaced. After putting all the effort in the design, after few months, you can just see it being disposed. That is how I started thinking about sustainability in fashion, something that would give my work more meaning, and at the same time I realized that I could actually bring some change to this world. To get more insight into the subject I decided to do a master in Sustainability in Fashion. Since my graduation I am still in that field developing techniques and pushing my ideas and vision forward. # What does sustainability mean to you, how do you define it? Personally, I am not a big fan of that word, but I guess we don’t have any better at the moment. I would say sustainability is any effort to live with more respect to each other and the environment we live in. If you can do it on a bigger scale, great, if not even a small effort matters.
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photo Claudia Klein
photo Nora Blum
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# What do you do in your daily life to protect the environment? Simple things: dividing trash, not driving a car, or trying not to come back with 20 plastic bags from the Turkish market. I think every effort counts, but I also think the big impact does not come from individuals having short showers, or switching to energy saving light bulbs. The real change is something that can happen way beyond the power of an ordinary person. # What is more important for you as a fashion designer – design or sustainability? I guess both things are equally important to me, but the fact is – fashion still can survive without sustainability, but without design it cannot. # Coming to your brand. What is the story behind “FARRAH FLOYD”? Farrah Floyd started as a project during my master studies, which I decided to develop further on. The basic idea was to integrate sustainable fashion into fashion. I try to design in the same way as I would if I didn’t have to think about sustainability. This is pretty hard sometimes, considering all the limits that come with sustainable principals. I am trying to turn them into advantages and use them as an inspiration, rather than limitation. FARRAH FLOYD collections are built on strong concepts, with pretty personal ideas of
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beauty and fashion. I like to play with shapes and textures, coloring them and offering my own vision of aesthetics. The special thing about FARRAH FLOYD designs is the zero waste technique that I have been developing for some years. Using only rectangle pattern pieces, I build body forms using pleating and folding techniques. Above all my brand is about making beautiful clothes; pieces that are not ordinary and will make the wearer feel special and different, awakening a kind of self-confidence. Sustainability of the brand is just one of the elements that brings more meaning to the concept and gives the full statement – fashion and sustainability should and can come together. # Sustainable fashion includes ecological and ethical aspects. How do you make sure that your fashion meets these standards? Firstly, I use only certified materials; I make no waste while cutting, and I produce in Germany. Furthermore, I like to think that what I do is an emotional design. My goal is that people appreciate the love and effort put in each FARRAH FLOYD garment, which they will cherish like an inherited piece of jewelry and enjoy it for a long time. # Which barriers do you have to face in the production of sustainable fashion? The availability of fabrics is very low, and also the choice is pretty narrow comparing to conventional materials. Both fabrics and
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production are way more expensive, and on the other hand the market is very small and not accepting the high prices that sustainable fashion comes with. # What is the typical “FARRAH FLOYD” style? Who is your target group? FARRAH FLOYD is a fiction character. She stands for a strong woman, the one that is not afraid of change, rather fights for it and most of all cherishes freedom. The brand is inspired by such women and tends to encourage other through its ideas, stands and of course clothes. She believes that "Beauty will save the world". Any woman can relate to FARRAH FLOYD. Weather she is fearless and strong, or she needs a bit of ego boost, FARRAH is there to help her show what she really is. She states her power by showing her seductive and feminine side, being elegant and in a way masculine at the same time. She shows her strength by being able to create her own style, based on her environment, background and of course her body.
trying to tame the fabric by treating it in different ways, this season I let the material live the life of its own. Some unpredictable shadows occur, the heavy winter fabrics seem unstoppable in a way – it doesn’t obey, but rather protrude out of the body. The idea of not controlling the fabrics scared me in a way, but at the same time I was able to find beauty in that, and a way to use it as an advantage. Besides tops and bottoms, dresses and winter coats, this season we also offer some accessories such as hats and scarves. Cashmere, angora, wool and cotton are cut and mixed with zero waste pattern pieces into completely new, but still recognizable FARRAH FLOYD looks.
# Can you already tell us a little bit about your upcoming autumn/winter 2015 collection? For the inspiration this season, I chose the biggest phobia I had as a child - volcanoes. For me volcanoes always represented something unpredictable, unstoppable and scary, but in the same way fascinating. Since I was using pleats a lot in my collections,
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www.farrahfloyd.com | visit at GREENSHOWROOM
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Interview with Mareike Ulman by Tom Felber & Marina Lacic
FORMAT Mareike Ulman founded her label FORMAT in 2008 and lives in works in Berlin-Neukölln. Since then she creates garments with a laid-back look and essentially minimalistic design. All FORMAT products are made considering high ecological and ethical standards. Their raw materials are organic, the cotton fabrics are certified by GOTS or produced according to similar organic standards. All of their clothing is made in Berlin and Brandenburg. # How did it come that you established a brand with a sustainable fashion focus? When I studied fashion design I learned more about production conditions in the clothing industry. As a developer of new products, what I am as a fashion designer, I did not want to be part of a system where working conditions with poison, absurd hours and no security are normal. So I decided to try it with my own little brand in the more ethical way.
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# What does sustainability mean to you, how do you define it? Living while leaving as less traces as possible. # What do you do in your daily life to protect the environment? The usual stuff: use as less garbage junk as possible, buy stuff that's long-living, think about what is really necessary. # What is more important for you as a fashion designer – design or sustainability? For me it belongs together. I cannot see it apart from each other anymore.
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photos FORMAT, Kilian Mueller
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# Coming to your brand. What is the story behind “FORMAT”? FORMAT's designs are essentially minimalistic. This minimalism is accentuated by details that make a freedom of movement possible while giving the clothes their laid-back look. FORMAT products stand for the distinctive, individual, and unmasked style of each individual. They bring out his or her best qualities and thus remain a durable companion. Since fall 2008 the FORMAT family has sought to realize a fair fashion world. All FORMAT products are made considering high ecological and ethical standards. Our raw materials are organic, the cotton fabrics are certified by GOTS or produced according to similar organic standards. All of our clothing is made in Berlin and Brandenburg. The FORMAT collection is partly independent from seasons because sustainability implies for us that clothes not ought to be old-fashioned after 6 month. We aspire a high level of eternalness in our styles: Some few items won't be reproduced again. Some pieces accomplish the collection since the early beginning of the brand and this collection keeps on growing by about ten pieces, new fabrics and new colors every season. Primarily we are concentrating on B2B business. We sell our clothing to mid and higher priced shops and retailers in Germany and since 2011 also in the Netherlands, Austria, Switzerland and Belgium. Nevertheless anyone can have a look at the clothes in WESEN showroom, which is our base.
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# Sustainable fashion includes ecological and ethical aspects. How do you make sure that your fashion meets these standards? Local confection, small manufactures and reasonable certification. # Which barriers do you have to face in the production of sustainable fashion? I did not work in conventional fashion so I do not know what I could miss. # What is the typical “FORMAT” style? Who is your target group? Our target customer is an open-minded person (male/ female), between 20 and 60 years old (mostly 40 +/- 5y), conscious consumer, interested and curious, well educated, working in medium or high level positions or self-employed with a medium or high budget for clothing. # Can you already tell us a little bit about your upcoming autumn/winter 2015 collection? We do not change the whole collection every season. We will have about 10 new styles for aw15: some dresses, coats and jackets and about 60 styles from former seasons will stay our favorites. Strong folded lines will be important for the new styles we are presenting.
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www.format-favourites.de | visit at ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN
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Interview with Dietrich Weigel by Tom Felber & Marina Lacic
GOODSOCIETY GOODSOCIETY was originally founded in America in 2007, with headquarters in Germany and an office in Italy today. The brand combines fashion and sustainable lifestyle: stylish design and premium organic products. GOODSOCIETY has dedicated their work to find a balance between enjoying life to the fullest, embracing change and being mindful of the world around us. They stand for minimalistic design and highest quality of natural fabrics and materials. # How did it come that you established a brand with a sustainable fashion focus? In my youth I followed music and fashion subculture. Than growing up and thinking about life, I felt that there should be a world with less oppression and more equal chances for everyone. With 19 I decided to make my own collection and connect these to passions. I learned tailoring and worked in various positions in the textile industry with premium brands. In 2011 I sold the shares of the company I have been partner in and -58-
realized what I ever wanted to do: making the world a better place with fashion. # What does sustainability mean to you, how do you define it? I would say it is all about looking to reduce any negative impact on nature as much as possible. Respecting other individuals and support those who are not in my position. # What do you do in your daily life to protect the environment? One can do a lot of small things like switching of light, making less garbage, not using too much the heating etc. Building GOODSOCIETY and try to convince more people to follow what we believe in was my biggest step in this direction.
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photos GOODSOCIETY
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# What is more important for you as a fashion designer – design or sustainability?
# Which barriers do you have to face in the production of sustainable fashion?
I always arranged to find ways to not compromise with any of both. If I would be forced to, I would select sustainability, as I don't think we are in a position to continue to sacrifice it. If design and sustainability does not go hand in hand, it is just superficial.
A lot of people think on the one hand sustainable fashion cannot be looking stylish in a modern way, than they are afraid and and think they can't do more in this world. But there are also a lot of people which really see what it means what we do and try to support our values and ideas for consequent ecologic and social value arguments.
# Coming to your brand. What is the story behind “GOODSOCIETY"? GOODSOCIETY was founded 2007 in the USA with an entire social and organic supply chain in India. As the past owners where struggling with manufacturing difficulties, in 2012 I took the brand over to build it up as a premium brand – 100% Made in Italy. The vision is to work with fashion on creating better living together. Respect for nature, no hunger, no oppression, with style and beauty. # Sustainable fashion includes ecological and ethical aspects. How do you make sure that your fashion meets these standards? We use only GOTS-certified organic cotton. Further we produce 100% in Italy, starting from yarn manufacturing, weaving, indigo dyeing, cutting, sewing, washing, garment manufacturing, production of accessories, finishing. I know all my suppliers, the owners and most of the workers. I like to know my team. I like to keep things personal.
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# What is the typical "GOODSOCIETY” style? Who is your target group? We do sustainable design, contemporary, a mix of classic, authentic, timeless hip. We do not follow fashion trends. We do not have a target group. Sustainability isn't an argument linked to a target group, it belongs to everyone and it would be good when everyone quickly would make it his or her "style". # Can you already tell us a little bit about your upcoming autumn/winter 2015 collection? Our washes are all without chlorine, potassium permanganate and flour carbon. We have a new high waist model with a slim leg. In the last season we have developed a lot of new washes and refinements, which still have to develop at the point of sale. And we are lancing our claim "be good to yourself – goodsociety"
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www.goodsociety.org | visit at ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN
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Interview with Johanna Riplinger by Tom Felber & Marina Lacic
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JOHANNA RIPLINGER JOHANNA RIPLINGER is a label combining ecological sustainability and sustainable labor practices with luxurious high fashion for women’s clothing with a distinctively feminine note. Johanna, by nationality German and American, chose Paris as her new home some 10 years ago to perform her profession. She is convinced of the fundamental link between the respect for nature and humans, the respect for the image of womanhood, and the importance to encourage manual and artistic talents. # How did it come that you established a brand with a sustainable fashion focus? The sustainable angle is a vital part of who and what I am and how I see everything that I do. Thus, from my earliest childhood, I grew up learning to love nature, and this love gave impulse to my desire to create beautiful fashion in harmony with nature. At a very young age, the color of a flower or the touch of a petal inspired me to reinterpret these fascinating natural hues and textures -62-
and to transform them into textile creations. My vocation was thus settled: there was only one thing I wanted to do: to become a fashion designer and eventually to create my own label to express my very own personal vision of fashion and its fundamental link to nature. # What does sustainability mean to you, how do you define it? Sustainability means for me commitment to conscious choices concerning questions like: what processing methods should I use? What materials should I use? What impact do I aim for? What are the best choices and the best sources compatible with my ideals of harmony? Thus there are two things I focus on. The one is concerned with the product and its origins; the other concerns the person for whom it is made and who will ultimately wear it, namely the modern woman of today. The first of these two question complexes means, for me using natural renewable and organic fabrics like organic wool,
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photos Sarah Dulay styling Oliver Schultze hair & make up Marlene Leni Prasse model Lolita @ East West Models
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JOHANNA RIPLINGER - "LOLITA" Collection S/S 15
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organic cotton and silk and coloring them with natural non-toxic dyes without any petrochemicals. For me, this was the most natural choice, for it amounts to a translation of my garden experience to an expression of the skin that feels best for me and represents a far better choice than the multiple transformations required by synthetic fabrics and dyes. The second aspect concerns all the people who are involved in the processes of production and distribution and also the customers who will ultimately purchase and wear my creations. Thus, to develop a sustainable and viable enterprise, it is important to cultivate protection and respect. # What do you do in your daily life to protect the environment? Thoughtfulness about our everyday actions helps to reduce the negative impact on the environment. Eating fresh, organic, local or regional products is not only healthier for the consumer but also less impacting on the environment than the long-distance transport, the industrial processing and packaging, involved in the production and distribution of conventional products. Thus in my miniature, window-box garden in my Paris flat, I enjoy growing my own sprouts and herbs. Other daily habits which are environmentally friendly are at the same time also economically sensible and add quality to one’s lifestyle, e.g. buying your rice, pasta, lentils in bulk rather than pre-packaged and using fine glass jars instead of plastics is much more aesthetic in the kitchen, Reusing nice packaging or eliminating packaging altogether, are all things we have to get used to, but once we do so, we do not want to go back to old habits. Walking or taking public transport in the midst of Paris not only
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makes more sense health wise and economically but also makes you discover and know the city much better. Once you get the hang of it, it’s not a burdensome constraint but a fun and joyful way to be. # What is more important for you as a fashion designer – design or sustainability? That's like asking: “what is more important, to breathe in or to breathe out?” To me it’s not a question of choosing one or the other, both are important in their own ways. They are two complimentary fields that with time will grow more and more together. What is still challenging in fashion today is to combine them. Over the last decades, there has been much development and improvement, and luckily our growing awareness will help to do so much more. # Coming to your brand. What is the story behind “JOHANNA RIPLINGER”? As mentioned above, my vision of a holistic and joyful expression of fashion has long been my drive to work actively as a designer towards linking high fashion to sustainable values. And whereas I once felt a bit solitaire in my attempts in the 90s, I now find it very encouraging to see so many leaps in the fashion industry since about 10 years and the growing awareness and demand among fashionistas. My label offers not only luxury of fine materials, beautiful and careful craftsmanship but the ultimate luxury of meaning and sense behind the beauty. In all true beauty is more than meets the eye and I am in constant attempt to create collections capable to reach all our senses..
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# Sustainable fashion includes ecological and ethical aspects. How do you make sure that your fashion meets these standards? Values can mostly be guaranteed by committed people whose every action corresponds to ethical beliefs and standards. Since I have been in the business for so long I have been lucky to meet and get to know the people I work with and to be assured about the implementation of their values in their work and daily lives; Certifications are very good for a large company which cannot regularly and personally control the production sites, but even better are the personal relationships built up over years of close contact, which together insure the creation of a product that is not only ecological and ethical but also enjoyable and fun. # Which barriers do you have to face in the production of sustainable fashion? There are mainly two barriers in my work, that continue to persist unsolved: one is the difficulty of getting sustainable raw materials and fabrics in sufficient variety to bring out a new collection every 6 months; the other is most people’s lack of knowledge and awareness about what’s behind most modern fashion, for example the dyes and chemicals used in the industry and the skepticism of clients and shop owners about the stability of natural fabrics. This means stepping out of your comfort zone to question what’s behind it and to learn more about sustainable values. To do so takes time and courage and few people, even professionals in the fashion industry and distribution have the guts to stand up for and to act upon their convictions or are willing to pay the price.
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# What is the typical “JOHANNA RIPLINGER” style? Who is your target group? I address my collection to the modern, liberated and conscious woman who wants to manifest her convictions and enhance her feminine, sensual side. Developing our senses is a very feminine quality which we tend to bury under the emancipationist need to appear tough and strong. I believe that a woman’s greatest strength is to give space for both power and softness and to create a harmony between them. My style is very fluid and light, unveiling feminine charm. The touch of the fabric and the sensation evoked by the garment on the skin reconnects the women with her sensitivity and empowers her gentleness. The often very dressy styles can be dressed up and down accordingly to the occasion and are meant and made to accompany the women for a long time all around the globe. # Can you already tell us a little bit about your upcoming autumn/winter 2015 collection? The new winter collection AW15/16 is an ode to “Dark and Light Contrast and its Transition in between” … to be continued…
www.johannariplinger.com
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Interview with Tobias Gerhard by Tom Felber & Marina Lacic
KANCHA After a fascinating journey, in the summer of 2013, co-founders Tobias Gerhard, Sebastian Gluschak, Oskar Kim together with designer Jonas Görtz put the concept for KANCHA into reality with a successful crowdfunding campaign. # How did it come that you established a brand with a sustainable fashion focus? When I first traveled to Kyrgyzstan in 2011, I was fascinated by the traditional felting technique developed by ancient nomads and still applied today. Back in Berlin I noticed a different type of nomadism: city dwellers with laptop and smartphone, who move from metropolis to metropolis without a fixed home or workplace. This sparked the idea of making the arts and crafts of Kyrgyzstan attractive for the urban nomads of the world and thereby to support the craftspeople and contribute to economic development of the small Central Asian state.
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# What does sustainability mean to you, how do you define it? Personally, I do not really like using the word, because it can mean anything. But on a more general level, we think of it as a triple bottom line approach, striving for social, environmental and financial sustainability in everything we do. # What do you do in your daily life to protect the environment? I try to be modest in my consumption of energy and consumer goods, for example using my bike as a regular means of transport. On the other hand, I can`t avoid flying more than I should, given that I have to fly back and forth between Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan, and Berlin occasionally.
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photos Ksenia Posadskova
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# What is more important for you as a fashion designer – design or sustainability? Both. And I do not think that they are mutually exclusive. # Coming to your brand. What is the story behind “KANCHA”? We want to combine Kyrgyzs craftsmanship with modern design and the lifestyle of urban nomads worldwide. At the center of KANCHA’s philosophy stands the human being. By being present both in Berlin and in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan, we make sure that clients get functional and esthetic products and that our craftspeople have decent working conditions. Every product comes with a “handmade label” personally signed by one of our craftspeople, which allows the client to learn more and get in touch on www.kancha.de/en/faces. # Sustainable fashion includes ecological and ethical aspects. How do you make sure that your fashion meets these standards? One of our main goals is to generate value creation in Kyrgyzstan. Therefore, we try to source all raw materials locally (currently around 98%), we make sure that all craftspeople working for KANCHA get an above average wage and benefit from additional support such as our health fund. Moreover, we facilitate knowledge exchange with our craftspeople and support social entrepreneurship in Kyrgyzstan through different
means. The fact that we are permanently present at our production location in Kyrgyzstan is a huge plus in this respect. # Which barriers do you have to face in the production of sustainable fashion? Change processes are slow and it takes time to convince partners to do something different from what they are used to. Especially, if the outcome is unknown and costs are involved. # What is the typical “KANCHA” style? Who is your target group? Our slogan sums it up: Design for Urban Nomads. All our products are essential accessories for mobile metropolitans made from natural felt and leather. For now this includes sleeves for mobile gadgets such as laptops, tablets and smartphones plus our latest collection of wallets. # Can you already tell us a little bit about your upcoming autumn/winter 2015 collection? For the coming year, we are planning a couple of new products in the area of bags and pocket accessories: a new eReadercase, a notebook with felt/leater-cover, a backpack.
www.kancha.de | visit at ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN -68-
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Interview with Arielle Levy by Tom Felber & Marina Lacic
L'HERBE ROUGE L'HERBE ROUGE creates an urban and poetic fashion with contemporary design where the real aesthetic combines, beauty, quality, ethics and ecology with fair and accessible prices. The innovative materials are from organic farming, recycling or from materials that have measured eco qualities. Treatments and ecological components are respectful of nature and manufactured according to standards of fair trade.
production of 1 000 kg of textile, textile Asian workers are often paid below the minimum living... Preserving our quality of life would only be possible for us if we managed to transform the economy to be more efficient, using natural resources, having low carbon impact and respecting human and environmental health. We wanted to participate to the mutation in our profession.
#  How did it come that you established a brand with a sustainable fashion focus?
#  What does sustainability mean to you, how do you define it?
The brand L'HERBE ROUGE was founded in 2008 by Thibaud Decroo and me. We both had 20 years of experience in the fashion industry in which we saw the limits in terms of respect for human rights and the environment. For example: 25% of chemicals produced in the world are used by this industry; each year in France, 700 000 tons of items are placed on the market for 100 000 tons collected; 200 000 liters of water are consumed for the
Sustainability for L'HERBE ROUGE means an economy, post-carbon, respectful of the biosphere and collaborative. It is also a lifestyle. Each one aspires to a healthy life in a beautiful environment and surrounded by serene and empathetic people. The philosophy of sustainability means also that.
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photos Tom Photos, L.Radat/L'Herbe Rouge
www.lherberouge.com | visit at ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN
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# What do you do in your daily life to protect the environment? Thibaud is involved in an association that enables integration through organic gardening. He is also involved in an association of entrepreneurs for sustainable development. I have no car and travel by public transport or cycle in Paris. She organizes many events with designers, artists, manufacturers, customers ... around sustainable development. She is also vice-president of the association Viaduct des Arts in Paris, which includes arts masters and exceptional creators and seeks to integrate ever more sustainability in the actions. We give priority to all responsible purchasing and eat primarily local food, especially from organic agriculture. We make traditional eco-actions. # What is more important for you as a fashion designer – design or sustainability? For us sustainability serves design. It drives us in every step of creation to achieve quality, to improve the knowledge of materials manufacturing techniques and artisanal know how by a transparent sharing of ideas and experimentations. As for the wellbeing, it examines aesthetic of comfort, the adaptation of products to lifestyles. Thanks to our sustainable and global approach, we create elegant and tactile clothing that protect you magnify your shapes, are durable and transformable. # Coming to your brand. What is the story behind “L'HERBE ROUGE”? This is a story of our friends who worked in fashion and had the same diagnosis about
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the sector and wanted to work at a more fair model. Arielle was the link to the fashion industry – she was fashion model during her studies. She is a great-German and took care of the promotion of artists when she lived in Germany. She gives great importance to human relations and wanted to work as a model that creates social links. Thibaud bathed in his youth in fashion. His father was in charge of a premium brand of wool in Roubaix and there were collections at home. He saw the Northern textile industry declined and having an appetite for ecology wanted to work on a more sustainable model. # Sustainable fashion includes ecological and ethical aspects. How do you make sure that your fashion meets these standards? We have also implemented a set of best practices to follow in eco-design, the wire to distribution. We are using materials and manufacturing process for which low environmental impact has-been measured scientifically. All materials are environmentally certified. We only work with partners in France, Europe and Francophone Africa who share our human and environmental values and follow best standards (GOTS certification, social auditing, SA 8000, fair trade...). # Which barriers do you have to face in the production of sustainable fashion? Ethical and eco fashion is still young. When we look at the long term and considering a future for more well-being, we know that this movement will be inevitable. L'Herbe Rouge is trying to offer high quality
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products at a great price with a much less expensive coating. We try to explain to our partners in upstream and downstream (raw materials manufacturers, spinners, weavers, dyers, knitters, makers, logistician, distributors etc.) that sustainable is an important source of innovation and creativity. In Europe, it is a source of competitiveness for industry in particular because we have an art of refined living. We need to mobilize a network and work in partnerships to truly emerge this new economy. # What is the typical “L'HERBE ROUGE” style? Who is your target group? We are a contemporary fashion brand. We offer first quality at an affordable price. This fashion is multigenerational. We are recognized for the quality of our design, our clothes: grand prix 2011 fashion houses, remarkable company 2013... Some customers buy us exclusively for fashion (in Japan for example) and others for our design and sustainable aspects. # Can you already tell us a little bit about your upcoming autumn/winter 2015 collection? First we want to offer more services to retailers. The collection will be divided into mini collections that will be delivered according to seasonal items. This allows them to have more renewal ?for their customers and improve their cash flow. We also propose a program of timeless basics that sell well from one season to another. The inspiration for this collection is part of the North landscapes (Norway, Iceland...), forests and glaciers. As usual, it is the nature that inspires us.
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Interview with Jana Keller by Tom Felber & Marina Lacic
ROYAL BLUSH The Swiss designer Jana Keller proves it is possible to design extra-ordinary sustainable leather accessories, and create something bigger, with her eco-luxury-label Royal BLUSH. # How did it come that you established a brand with a sustainable fashion focus? I always loved drawing and as a kid I was winning a lot of awards. Then I started my education in a buying office of a big fashion chain in Switzerland and so there I was: loving fashion and illustrating. This led me to combine my two passions and so I started to research which fashion school would attract me the most. I needed creativity combined with a connection to reality, that´s how I ended up at ESMOD Berlin. Of course also Berlin was playing part in my decision. During my studies I always worked with natural materials, such as cotton, silk, wool etc… until I realized, natural materials alone are not necessarily sustainable, the bigger part is depending on their growing and treating. -74-
I received a sponsored stand through ESMOD at the Bread&Butter Berlin with my womenswear diploma collection. Fearing I would not fill the 10 square meters, I bought some leather and sew my first leather bags, for which I used vegetable tanned leather. I received great feedback on the collection and also saw how few people knew about vegetable tanning. From that day on, I decided to make my brand a leather accessory brand. First bags, purses, bracelets, belts, necklaces, fingerrings and now leather espadrilles. # What does sustainability mean to you, how do you define it? Sustainability starts in the little things. Things everyone can do immediately. Recycling, energy from renewable sources, FSC paper, CO2 neutral printing, using electronical products as long they are good for their purpose and so on. Then it goes onto the design process and product. Where do I buy my raw materials, what are my raw materials made
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photos JANETTE GLOOR hair & make up ANNA KALASHNIKOVA clothes JOHANNA RIPLINGER model POLINA @ SCOUT
ROYAL BLUSH - "Desert Blossom" Collection S/S 15 -75-
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of, who is making them and also how do I travel to my exhibitions? There are many different ways to sustainability and it always can be improved. # What do you do in your daily life to protect the environment? I try to remind myself of all the annoying things my mum used to tell me when I was a child – now that I realized how right she was. Having no electronical products on stand-by, turning of lights when I leave the room, not to throw away food, don’t let the water tap run when brushing teeth and so on. Now I added myself to these daily life rules: always use the bike if I can or the train instead the airplane, buy more fresh products without all that wrapping etc. # What is more important for you as a fashion designer – design or sustainability? Definitely design, no one buys an ugly bag just because it is made of ecological materials.
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# Coming to your brand. What is the story behind “ROYAL BLUSH”? Our vision is to create with love & passion for fashion, always in sustainable, fair and ethical ways. The world we live in is to precious to destroy it, just to look good. We hope to inspire people with products that don’t look sustainable but exclusive with our devotion. Luxury can be done in sustainable ways – I even would dare say, luxury by definition should be sustainable. The vision for ROYAL BLUSH is to develop the brand further, from Accessories over Shoes and back to our roots Womenswear. # Sustainable fashion includes ecological and ethical aspects. How do you make sure that your fashion meets these standards? For a start all our products are produced in Europe with good work ethics. One part of the fingering is made in India, due to their amazing handcraft and I know the people personally. I let them decide the price and
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never bargained. This is for the ethical part. Then we not only produce but also source materials within Europe, so the shipping distances are kept short. We only work with vegetable tanned calf leather and bio salmon skin – a waste product of the food industry. For the gold plated products we have more than 60% recycled gold, to avoid using new ressources and for another part of the collection we use certified fair gold. Sometimes it means doing the splits between pricing and sustainability. # Which barriers do you have to face in the production of sustainable fashion? Due to the need of sustainable ingredients it can be hard to get. “Normal designers” just buy ready- made ingredients from sourcing fairs. For my products I have to research more and I let make everything from the cord to the closures. It means a lot more work for us and coordination for the production but also gives us our exceptional look that is easy recognizable. # What is the typical “ROYAL BLUSH” style? Who is your target group? Well, the leather and the knots. There isn’t any to describe. Or as I say for my slogan: For sophisticated and ecologically responsible men and women. # Can you already tell us a little bit about your upcoming autumn/winter 2015 collection? I am going back to our roots.
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www.royalblush.ch
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Interview with Sabine Feuerer by Tom Felber & Marina Lacic
Sabine Feuerer Sabine Feuerer is a designer for luxury dresses. Her name stands for a product completely Made in Germany, each dress is handcrafted. She uses only sustainable materials, such as biological silk, wool and cotton from Europe. She started her career during her economics study in Germany, where she worked for national and international fashion brands. During her study in Sydney (Australia), she created the idea of her own company. # How did it come that you established a brand with a sustainable fashion focus? It was always my dream to establish my own brand, especially because of those reasons – living for MY philosophy and brand vision. I worked for several international fashion brands but I was never convinced of their old-fashioned thinking and how they produced their goods. Sometimes it was kind of awful to work for them. I swore to myself I only establish my brand if I can make it possible to act sustainable. I think we all have to -78-
give something back in life. We have to create processes more efficient and think more innovative and also always improve ourselves. "Fashion must be fair!". # What do you do in your daily life to protect the environment? My whole supply chain is environmentally optimized, I produce in Germany to support the national talent and handcraft right up to the best packaging of my products. # What is more important for you as a fashion designer – design or sustainability? I could not design without acting sustainable.
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# Coming to your brand. What is the story behind “SABINE FEUERER”? My brand offers fashion “Made in Germany” – what means each piece you’ll buy is designed and handcrafted in Germany. We offer casual as well as luxury gowns for the fashion ladies out there, who want best quality and fair produced fashion. # Sustainable fashion includes ecological and ethical aspects. How do you make sure that your fashion meets these standards? The whole production is in Germany, we buy highest materials from ecological mercers. Further we use innovative fabrics in our collection like eco fake leather. I would never use real leather or fur. # What is the typical “SABINE FEUERER” style? Who is your target group? Very trendy daily dresses as well as luxury gowns. My style is always a contrast of shape, materials and colors. Our clients are business and trendy women. They want highest quality, fair produced garments and a unique dress. # Can you already tell us a little bit about your upcoming autumn/winter 2015 collection? Some headwords: warm colors, geometry, pure silk, eco fake leather – you can be exited!
www.sabinefeuerer.com
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photos SABINE FEUERER
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jacket Haili Jin top Shanna Bent scarf COS blanket Vintage gloves Diesel
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coat & pants (worn as scarf) Shanna Bent leggings Luke Bullen dress Catarina Niedermeier sweater (worn as scarf) & belt Vintage
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jacket Black Velvet circus sweater United Colors of Benetton sweater (around waist) The Ragged Priest belt Jessika July fur Vintage scarf COS pants Ethel Vaughn shoes Dr. Martens
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sweater (worn as scarf) The ragged preist scarf (light grey) & Other stories top Charlotte Ham jacket Haili Jin pants Simon Ereklius sweater (around the waist) Vintage shoes DR. MartEns
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dress Catarina Niedermeier knit Luke Bullen blanket Vintage
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shirt Calvin Klein Sweater & Other stories sweater (around the waist) Massimo Dutti pants Simon Peters socks FALKE scarf (grey) Vintage scarf (cream) United Colours of Benetton
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coat Ethel Vaughn dress Simon Peters scarf: COS hat Vintage
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coat COS jacket (underneath) Ambel Merono pants Martine Jarlgaard accessories FALKE shoes Dr. Martens
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jacket Sade Engish jumpsuit Jessika July scarf & Other stories
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#EVENTS ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN & GREENSHOWROOM Interview by Tom Felber for SUPERIOR MAGAZINE with Magdalena Schaffrin, Creative Director of Greenshowroom and Ethical Fashion Show Berlin, and Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies of Messe Frankfurt which organizes both exhibitions.
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photo YANNIC PĂ–PPERLING
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# Again a new location. After GREENSHOWROOM moved back to Hotel Adlon last season, in January GREENSHOWROOM and ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN will be together in one location, the POSTBAHNHOF. Why do you move again? Olaf Schmidt: We have decided to take the next step and to move the show to Postbahnhof. Finally, both fairs are united in a shared venue and will both gain in appeal and attractiveness. They make up Europe’s biggest platform for green fashion during the Berlin Fashion Week. Also, the new venue will help us increase the potential growth of the two tradeshows. The current registration status speaks for itself and that it was the right decision: More than 160 international labels have registered. We look forward to an outstanding line-up! By bringing together the two tradeshows, we can offer Fashion Week visitors a comprehensive overview of contemporary, sustainably manufactured fashion and indeed within a single location. # How does it affect the concept of both trade fairs? How do both trade fairs still differ while being in one location?
# Besides this relocation, what can we expect from this season's GREENSHOWROOM and ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN?
Magdalena Schaffrin: For the Ethical Fashion Show Berlin is not much of a difference of style and feel of the location, but the Postbahnhof offers much more space for bigger stands for our exhibitors. We could rent out more sqm than expected. The Greenshowroom will take place in the upper floor of the location, which is a very light and bright big room and as it was used as a former train station the whole building has an elegant curved shape. The concepts of the trade fairs stay the same: in the Greenshowroom space, high fashion brands will show their collections, in the Ethical Fashion Show Berlin space street and casualwear will be shown.
Olaf Schmidt: The line-up of exhibitors is as comprehensive as never before – both in the high fashion area and in the segment streetwear. Totally, we have a growth of more than 30 percent. Among others Lillika Eden, Nine to five, Philomena Zanetti and Upmade by Reet Aus attend at Greenshowroom as well as People Tree, Lanius, Lana und Komodo at Ethical Fashion Show Berlin. In addition, the presentation of some renowned outdoor labels at Ethical Fashion Show Berlin will be particularly interesting. Fjäll Räven, Patagonia, Vaude, Salewa, Helly Hanson, Bleed Organic Clothing, Pyua and some more labels will attend with new models.
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# Where will the GREENSHOWROOM Salonshow take place? And how will the Salonshow look after the spectacular anniversary-show in summer?
Magdalena Schaffrin
Magdalena Schaffrin: One of the biggest advantages of the new location is the fact, that we can have all our events on one spot, under one roof, the two trade fairs, the Salonshow, fringe programme and exhibitor´s reception. We are looking forward to seeing a great show with a mix of already known Greenshowroom exhibitors and new trendsetting brands. The actress Marion Kracht will not only show her first eco collection but will be showing one look on the catwalk herself. We will see outfits from the following brands: austriandesign.at, Aiby Craft, Alma&Lovis, Cocccon, Deepmello, ESMOD Berlin International University of Art for Fashion, Farrah Floyd, Inti Ferreira, Jan n'June, Katrien Van Hecke, Lillika Eden, Linda Mai Phung, Lotta, Maria Seifert Collections, Marion Kracht Design by Lana, Pira, Skrabak, Studio Elsien Gringhuis, Sveekery, WalkBoxx/ SilkBoxx, Xess+Baba, Zora Heinicke. # What are your personal highlights at GREENSHOWROOM and ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN this time? Magdalena Schaffrin: At first, I am quite overwhelmed by the large number of great brands, which will be showing their collections on both trade fairs. The shoe-brand
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Nine to Five is definitely worth a closer look, as well as Boddhisattva, Silkboxx and Katrien van Hecke in the Greenshowroom, in the Ethical Fashion Show Berlin are VA, Komana, LangerChen and Mud Jeans to recognize. And of course: the Salonshow will definitely be one of the highlights. I am also looking forward to welcoming a number of important people like Minister Dr. Gerd MĂźller, who will open the trade shows, Marion Kracht to the Salonshow and Hannes Jaennicke, who will accompany Gisela Burckhardt for her book release. #  Which new trends in green fashion for the autumn/winter 2015 season will your exhibitors show us? Olaf Schmidt: Op Art is more in vogue than ever before. When combined with both delicate and coarse fabrics, it produces a skilful mixture of wildness and purism. Unusual patterns, some seemingly random and others arranged geometrically, are combined with clear cuts and architectural silhouettes. We see a wide colour spectrum, ranging from discreet autumn colours to boldly assertive colours such as turquoise and red. Womenswear is dominated by skirts, dresses and coats, while the main emphasis in menswear is on coarse knitted jumpers and waistcoats. But this trend is also reflected in accessories, such as scarves, jewellery and bags. And all this has been produced under fair and environment-friendly conditions.
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Olaf Schmidt
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# EVENTS SEEK SEEK is the fashion trade show for modern menswear, upper streetwear, elevated sportswear, new classics and authentic designer collections concepts and on the uprise in Berlin’s contemporary trade show landscape. We talked to Oliver Saunders, Creative Director and Maren Wiebus, Sales Director of SEEK about the changes and highlights in January.
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Interview with Oliver Saunders & Maren Wiebus by Tom Felber
JANUARY 2015
# What is SEEK? MS: Seek is a trade show for modern menswear, upper streetwear, new classics, elevated sportswear and authentic designer collections – for unpretentious brands that have charisma and reflect the zeitgeist. At the moment, the portfolio comprises over 80% men’s collections. In future, we want to expand the women’s section. The ratio of women’s collections is already increasing, with Libertine-Libertine and Sessùn, for example. As with the gents, an unruffled look predominates – not so much the boyfriend look from the style pages of gossip magazines, rather a cool and high-quality look. In the long term, we would like to encompass the full lifestyle spectrum: beauty and grooming, books, interior design, gadgets, music and film, art and even travel concepts – everything that constitutes quality of life in today’s world. (Modern life, so to speak). # SEEK is moving to a new location. Why? OS: One, two, three, four, five floors... We would have to build a new storey on top of Kühlhaus every season to meet the demand from brands. It felt right to take the next step – into the larger Arena. MW: It is time for Seek to take the next step. Seek has achieved a popularity and relevance that justifies the show moving into its own location. The industrial, historic charm is still there: stone floors, glass bricks. We are combining this with the raw wood of the stands. There is a sense of continuity between the Kühlhaus and the Arena: we are making it cosy and familiar so that everyone feels they belong here.
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Oliver Saunders
# Does the new location affect the SEEK concept? MW: The general requirement in terms of fashion relevance has not changed. We feel a great responsibility towards the brands to make a brand selection that will appeal to the relevant buyers. We cater for the niche market, which, in turn, knows that this is where it will find its guys and gals. We also have buyers that use our brands to add a ‘freestyle’ element to their range. Ensuring that small brands do not miss out to larger brands is part of our concept, and this will not change at the Arena either. At SEEK, the focus is on the product. Visitors should be able to have unfettered access to the products in order to get to grips with them – this is something that visitors expect from us.
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# What makes SEEK different from other trade fairs?
# Which are the Highlights at SEEK this season?
MW: Seek is a business platform. There is a lot of room for exchange, it is not a party place. As the trade show, we stay in the background. We are the communicator that connects everything. We create an approachable atmosphere. We invite you to discover something new.
All of them! A lot to discover! Don't miss Howlin, Porter, PB0110, Carhartt WIP, Monitaly & Yuketen, Grenson, Oliver Spencer etc. Could go on an on like this...
# What do all Seek brands have in common?
MW: In our KIEZ-Tour visitors can use the AUDI Shuttle Service that connects SEEK to PREMIUM and to all other important shows and events to further visit some of the most important stores and venues around Berlin.
OS: They cater to customers who care about quality and importantly longevity. Customers are making more conscious choices today, when buying clothes, as an investment. Our brands understand this. There is a wider range on offer, but a more targeted selection can be made.
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# You also offer a “Special Kiez-Tour”. Tell us more about this service.
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# EVENTS PREMIUM Anita Tillmann is founder, owner and Managing Director of PREMIUM, the leading international fashion trade show for the premium sector. We talked to Anita Tillmann about the development and highlights at January PREMIUM.
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Interview with Anita Tillmann by Tom Felber photo jennifer fey
JANUARY 2015
# Anita, you are expanding PREMIUM. What’s the reason for this step? With this expansion, PREMIUM is keeping up with the demands of the industry. We are constantly observing and analysing the market, communicating with brands and retailers, and we take our role as a marketplace very seriously. We adapt what we offer in line with demand, curating the brand portfolio afresh every season and making sure that the right partners meet one another at PREMIUM to generate business. # You added the segments “New Luxury & Pre-Collections” and “Trend-Fashion Collections”. Which sort of brands will we see especially in these two new sectors? For the Autumn/Winter 2015/15 season, we are presenting two new segments. In the new Hall 8, completed in October, brands that traditionally tend not to exhibit at trade shows will be presented in a very exclusive, showroom-like atmosphere, along with international newcomers and promising emerging designers, three of whom are the PREMIUM Young Designers. In the Kühlhaus, fashion trend brands will be exhibited via shop and corner concepts. You will be seeing collections from Áeron, Ainea, Ame Soeur, Antonia Zander, Augustin Teboul, Dawid Tomaszewski, Dell‘Est, Golpira, Gvyn, Halston Heritage, I‘Vr Isabel Vollrath, Irene Luft, Kyme Italy, Lala Berlin, Milly, Samantha Sung, Sammler Berlin, Steinrohner, Vieri, Vladimir Karaleev, etc. The gallery-like structure of the Kühlhaus, with a total of 5 floors, creates a ‘department-store’ feel. The Kühlhaus concept is a response to retail developments. Many retailers’ portfolios now range from designer brands through to products at entry-level
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Anita Tillmann | photo Jürgen Schabes price points, in order to best serve their heterogeneous customer base. Trade visitors can look forward to a very carefully curated portfolio that reflects the current relevant market and enables retailers to fine tune their own profiles. Elvine, European Culture, Fornarina, Gas, Modström, Gardenia Copenhagen, Jijil, List, MbyM, List, MbyM, Modström, One Green Elephant, European Culture, Gang, Dstrezzed, Fab. by Fabienne, Toms, FTC Cashmere, Custo Barcelona, etc. # Also the Accessories are moving location within PREMIUM. Why? Accessories are indispensable styling elements that provide the finishing touch to any look. In order to create a more consistent ordering process for buyers, jewellery,
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watches, scarves, sun glasses, etc. are moving into Cubes. Right next to Hall 7 and the new luxury collections in Hall 8, accessories are now in the ideal location to bring the high-quality womenswear and luxury collections to perfection. You will be seeing brands such as Alex Monroe, By Boe, Culti, David Aubrey, Inverni, Linda Farrow, Marjana von Berlepsch, Mühlbauer, Nanni, Voluspa, Warm-Me, Octavia Yang, etc.
products, developments, business opportunities and people from fashion and technology. Innovation is important because standing still costs a company more money than investing in innovation and in the future. This is a very exciting area that is shaping the future of the fashion industry. Personally, I enjoy being part of this development and playing a significant role in shaping it.
# What do you like about Berlin and where do you see room for improvement? I love Berlin. There is no other city in Europe with such a throng of creative people from all around the world. This is where fashion, art, music, design and innovation collide and generate a strong, creative energy. Berlin has changed a lot in just ten years. The former rave capital of the nineties is now an internationally relevant fashion metropolis with an unbelievably strong economic influence. Each season, thousands of visitors from around the world flock to the capital for the international season kickoff, where they can view the entire spectrum of international fashion and place orders. What’s more, Berlin has become the hub – or ‘digital catalyst’ – of the international start-up scene. re:publica, Plug&Play, Next, Tedx, The Factory and The Hundert are just a few examples of concepts that offer this growing community a platform and a voice. As the trailblazer for our industry, we are introducing a new conference concept that brings together fashion and technology. At the first-ever #FASHIONTECH BERLIN conference, along with our international partners, we will present developments in the field of wearable devices as well as other
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photo LAURA DESCHNER
JANUARY 2015
photo Dorothea Tuch
photo LAURA DESCHNER
photo JENNIFER FEY
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photo LAURA DESCHNER
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# HOTSPOTS VISITING THE 'HOUSE OF DAR' JOHNY DAR is an American artist and designer and established himself in the fashion and art world. Recently he opened his first gallery HOUSE OF DAR in Berlin. Tom and Marc from SUPERIOR MAGAZINE met Johny in his gallery to talk about his new space and his projects.
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Interview by Tom Felber & VIKTORIA VON DER WAY | photos MARC HUTH
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# Johny, what was the intention for the gallery? I always wanted to have a museum to show my own art. For a while I have had the idea of temporary museums in metropolitan cities around the world. And this is actually the beginning of this plan, to start with Berlin and to grow. # That means you are moving around the world with your museum or do you want to have a base in Berlin and other metropolitan cities? Yes, exactly. I want several galleries around the world. Maybe the next one will open in Dubai. I’ll have a big show there in March 2015 for my new big painting project. # So you will have an extra base in Dubai? Whenever I travel to a new country and culture I like to discover the expression and ideas of that culture. Then my expression shifts and gets more tailored to the culture, and the people that are around me. Instead of bringing the art pieces inspired by Berlin to Dubai, I would rather find the Dubai inspiration and make art that tells a story of that culture. # Tell us more about your new project. Will it be like ‘TUULI BY DAR’? In a way similar and at the same time different. I don’t want to say more at the moment, but believe me, it will be spectacular.
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# Let’s talk about your gallery here. It’s a two-rooms space. What do we see currently in the rear room?
# Isn’t it actually harder for the model? I mean, that’s a big challenge to be naked all the time, and be painted for 11 hours?
These are the images from ‘TUULI BY DAR’, which were made into a limited edition calendar for this year.
Definitely! I had so much respect. Tuuli was amazing and she stayed really strong and dedicated the entire time. Sometimes she would not even drink anything at certain times in the process, so she didn’t have to go to the bathroom - it was very extreme and intensive this way. And once we had a huge disaster because we were working for 10 hours and using a fan and big hot lights and the paint just cracked. At the end we had to do the motive all over again, on another day. It was not an easy project. But we also had a lot of fun. Rankin was very particular about the hair and the pose. For one image Tuuli was meant to be this ‘white-ice-queen’, with big, white, layered hair. And then Rankin came in and looked at her and said: “You look like a
# Tuuli by Dar was the project you did with the star photographer Rankin and his wife Tuuli. How was it working with them? It was a great experience. It took lot of dedication and many hours of work until we had the result for each image. Actually the first painting was quite difficult for me because I never did body painting before. But the team we worked with was brilliant. Rankin was always really quick to get the shot – he and Tuuli work really well together - and then after all those hours of painting Tuuli would jump in the shower! Actually I really don’t know how we finally got this project done. Tuuli was amazing. Rankin was always surprised to see her every time we did a new look. He had to look twice to identify her. It was interesting because she slipped into a new character each time she was painted. It was all about bringing out her different sides, and expressing them through the different designs and colours. # How long did it take you to paint her for the whole pictures? Some motives took me about 11 hours to paint, in comparison some others took only about 2 hours to paint. So all in all we had to work for about 120 hours painting, to make the whole series, maybe more.
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smurf.” That was quite a good comparison, and we were all laughing. That sounds really like you had a lot of fun. Let’s now see what we find in the entrance room of your HOUSE OF DAR. There are so many details in this room, especially on the walls. The first impression of the room and the walls might be very abstract, but when you get closer the pattern tells a story. The idea of painting walls with patterns came from my fascination with working with contrast such as black and white. There is a story behind the lines, and hidden faces and forms like angels or transvestites or butterflies you can glimpse in between them. I really like to work with hidden images. Everyone who comes here sees the walls differently, of course. And then the next time you look you can discover something new, something you might not have noticed the last time.
# And on the wall you have your acrylic on canvas series ‘PERFECT MOMENTS’ I am always taking care about the balance and the harmony within whatever I am creating. Whenever I am starting to paint a part of the story I need some time to get myself into that place, and these paintings came from quite a dark and surreal place.It’s actually a very dark and pissed off series. I bring myself into these images. I have to die and come out of these patterns. I’m diving into the experience of what I am expressing prior to creating it and this is how it comes out powerfully real in my work. It is all about the way to dig deep into a moment or subject without disturbing it. This is the theme of this room. The contrast between the black and white colors and all the other colors here. Nothing is really meaningless. Everything in life has a sense. It depends on you whether your realize it or not. # So what's coming up next for you? Well, next year is going to be very busy. One thing I am looking forward to is presenting ‘The Party’ at the HOUSE of DAR, in March. It’s going to be a symbiosis of art, music, live performance and fashion - a celebration of artistic expression and experience. I’m going to be revealing some details of my artwork and the secrets behind some of the art pieces and installations. But no more details now, you’ll have to join us for ‘The Party’. # Thanks a lot Johny for the interview.
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photography by Susanna Lencinas art direction & body art by Johny Dar body make up provided by Kryolan Professional hair & make up by Daniela Schmidt
models Leoni Lencinas, Alexandra Orban & Natalie Niebel
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sweater & Other Stories
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photography by Isabella Bejarano styling by Rodney Patterson hair by Michael Forrey make up by Brit Cochran models Bruna Del Bortoli & Olga Zhukova @ ONE Model Management
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coat Zara turtleneck J Crew
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coat & Other Stories
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faux fur coat Club Monaco skirt TopShop
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scarf & jacket Zara pants Topshop -126-
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faux fur coat Club Monaco
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sweater & Other Stories
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coat & Other Stories
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sweater Vince skirt Club Monaco
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sweater CLUB MONACO skirt ZARA
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First Landing photography by Monika Maslanek styling by Gaetano Alan Accursio make up by Katharina Handel @ Basics Berlin model SANDRA S @ M4 MODELS
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pants & jacket Antoniya Ivanova
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dress Antoniya Ivanova coat Fe'raud Paris tights wolford shoes Giuseppe Zanotti
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shoes & coat STEINROHNER shirt Dolce & Gabbana
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blouse, skirt & shoes STEINROHNER bra TRIUMPH
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dress STEINROHNER ring Angela Gomez Jewelry
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sweater Antoniya Ivanova pants Carlo Pignatelli shoes STEINROHNER
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photography by Maren Schabh端ser styling by Alexandra Klar hair & make up by Dennis Brandt @ blossom management using Chanel and Bumble and Bumble model ZEN @ MODELWERK
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dress Joseph coat Cos tights & socks Falke shoes Vintage necklace By Malene Birger
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pants & sweater PAUL & JOE top TIBI
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skirt & jacket Talbot Runhof tights FALKE
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long dress Cos dress on top Karl Lagerfeld
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overall TIBI skirt COS coat FRISUR
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pants KARL LAGERFELD sweater VINTAGE coat cos vest tibi socks falke
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sweater FRISUR cardigan Barbara Lohmann
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David Curleigh
»THE LAST CARNIVAL«
Mikkel Vigholt Petersen
»GOLLA«
Hyunjin Park
»SWEET ALLIE«
David Strassburger
»WALDEN«
Enea Arienti
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Mathew Guido
»UNDONE« Jordan Millington
»THE STAIRS TO HEAVEN ARE MADE OF CONCRETE«
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Joan Minder
»MOUNTAIN RIDE«
Lena Kholkina
»SUMMER DAY«
Andreas Felipe
»UNTITLED«
Michael Groeger
»THE OTHER WAY«
Kristijan Antolovic
»GREY GARDEN«
Marcelo Cantu
»HER GOLDEN ROOM« Susann Jehnichen
»WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE«
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»BLADE RUNNER«
Sven Kristian
»JUSTIFY ME«
Yugo Takahashi
»UNKNOWN«
Nelly Briet
»OBLIVION«
Anne Carolien Köhler
»SOMEWHERE THEY CAN'T FIND ME«
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»KÖNIGREICH«
Philip Overbuary
»CONSTRUCTED«
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Maiken Staak
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2W Studio
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photography by Susann Jehnichen styling by Maria Schneider make up by Katja MaaSSen model Vanessa Bley
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body & pants H&M cardigan vintage necklace ASOS
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body & pants H&M cardigan vintage necklace & sunglasses ASOS
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jacket DIESEL dress DKNY
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top Silence +Noise skirt & necklace ZARA pants DKNY shoes Steve Madden
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Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com
MEET CREATIVE PEOPLE
coming out on January 30th 2015
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#FEBRUARY 2015