Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com
OCTOBER 2014
# OCTOBER 2014
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OCTOBER 2014
...and meet the creative scenes of fashion, design, art, culture & lifestyle
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# I m p r i n t
SUPERIOR MAGAZINE Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin www.superior-mag.com connection@superior-mag.com Publisher
SUPERIOR Publishing UG (haftungsbeschränkt) Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin
Chief Editor V.i.S.d.P. Tom Felber / tom@superior-mag.com CREATIVE Director Marc Huth / marc@superior-mag.com fashion Consultant Simon Heeger / simon@superior-mag.com fashion & LIFESTYLE CORRESPONDANT Kristian Greve /kristian@superior-mag.com Graphic editor Franziska Raue / franziska@superior-mag.com Graphic editor Michael Länger / michael@superior-mag.com fashion & Lifestyle editor Lisa Oke / lisa@superior-mag.com PHOTOGRAPHERS Dustin Hollywood & Jonathan Schlingemann editorS Shammara Lawrence & Jana Wilms Editorial Department editor@superior-mag.com Advertising advertising@superior-mag.com PR Management press@superior-mag.com
Superior Magazine accepts no liability for any unsolicited material whatsoever. Opinions contained in the editorial content are those of the contributors and not necessarily those of the publisher of Superior Magazine. Despite careful control Superior Magazine accepts no liability for the content of external links. Any reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited
COVER: Charlotte Ronson @ MBFWNY photo by Dustin Hollywood
IF YOU DO IT RIGHT, IT WILL LAST FOREVER ewerk Berlin, 19 – 21 January 15
green showroom 19 — 21 January 15 Hotel Adlon Kempinski, Berlin
Fashion magazines? We’ve got a million free ones. Issuu.com
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# Editorial Dear readers, Now the autumn has also moved our time and the big S/S 2015 fashion shows in New York, London and Paris presented the creme de la creme of the fashion scene. We were present very closely in the exciting fashion circus and acknowledge this period of time with an appropriate special part in this issue. For the first time we were present at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York with an own team around the New York based journalist Shammara Lawrence. And in London the photographer Jonathan Schlingemann again went backstage for us. Let you enchant from our vivid impressions and get more information about the designer’s visions, inspirations and profiles. However it wasn’t quiet around the fashion scene in Germany. Some days ago the Frankfurt Style Award 2014 found its final in the big gala at the Frankfurt Airport and a special thank to the allied partner country France. As one resumé we can say "Frankfurt can do fashion". Of course you also find in this issue fashion editorials from all around the world. One of them is our own production and it is an homage to film classics. Enjoy our October issue, Tom, Marc and the whole SUPERIOR MAGAZINE team
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#
October 2014
EVENT
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NYFW+LFW S/S 15 SPECIAL
124 #
SELECTION
26 #
FRANKFURT STYLE AWARD '14
AUDEMARS PIGUET & RAINER BRAND
PHOTOGRAPHY
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Marc Huth
»IT'S A WRAP!«
GoSee AWARDS 2014 TRANSPORTATION EDITORIAL ARCHITECTURE & INTERIOR STILLS LANDSCAPE NUDE ILLUSTRATION / DIGITAL REPORTAGE PROJECTS HAIR & MAKEUP STYLING PLUS our SCREENINGS AWARD
24-25th October 2014 Welcome to the GoSee Awards*. Creatives can enter series or connected work in 11 categories free of charge. These are then viewed by industry professionals (art buying, editors, creation, publishing, …). The 20 finalists will be presented with Gold, Silver and Bronze as well as distinctions. As in previous years, the SCREENINGS Award, the 12th and crowning category, will judge your complete portfolio (photographers only), a homepage link is enough to enter. Three winners will be announced. Details on the competition and exhibition: GoSee.us/awards
*sign in or set up a free GoSee Account to enter - GoSee.us/register GoSee NEWS – free weekly newsletter (photography, illustration, fashion, art, book, …)
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October 2014
PHOTOGRAPHY David Cohen de Lara
»SMALL FLOWERS CRACK CONCRETE«
114 Karl & Kristof
»MEMORIES OF THE FOREST« Verena Knemeyer
»CECI N'EST PAS DE LA MODE«
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170
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140 Nico Ernst
»MARC & THE GANG«
EDITORIALS SEPTEMBER
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Julin Athalia Lee
»ROYALE«
LE BOOK.COM Online access to the global creative network. LA CREATIVE ThE whO’s dOIng whAT OF The world’s most influential advertising campaigns, editorials & high-end events. LE BOOK PRInT EdITIOns* The best of image-making and creative services around the world.
COnnECTIOns
The creative industry event. Print, digital, experience, film social. CONNECTIONS is where it’s at. nEXT sTOP 2014/2015 AMSTERDAM / CHICAGO / PARIS LOS ANGELES / BERLIN / LONDON...
By invitation only lebook.com/connections Stay tuned!
WELCOME TO OUR WORLD The network that makes the global creative industry tick. OUR INAUGURAL EUROPEAN EDITION*
Is in collaboration with
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photography by MARC HUTH styling by KRISTIAN BARELLA GREVE production assistants MICHAEL LÄNGER, DARIA SOMMER, FRANZISKA RAUE -18-18-
OCTOBER 2014
It's a Wrap! SUPERIOR MAGAZINE takes you back to cinematic history with all kinds of adventures, thrills and entertainment. However, our journey has a little twist: The protagonists are not human but unique shoes which come to life and represent the whole story. We want to share with you our love for monumental movies...
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THE BIRDS (1963)
shoe Buffalo / seen on mirapodo.de
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THE WIZARD OF OZ (1939)
shoes UNITED NUDE
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FULL METAL JACKET (1987)
shoe Palladium
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A CLOCKWORK ORANGE (1971)
shoe DR. MARTENS
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KILL BILL (2003)
shoe SCHUTZ
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Charlie and the Chocolate Factory (2005)
shoes Melvin & Hamilton
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AUDEMARS PIGUET -26-
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# SELECTION LUXURY IN AUTUMN by AUDEMARS PIGUET & RAINER BRAND
Luxury retailing offers a broad variety of watches, but this fall we are witnessing the launch of two rare chronographs. For one AUDEMARS PIGUET is after two decades launching their new “OFFSHORE” model and RAINER BRAND extended the successful “KERALA” series by a FLYBACK chronograph. When AUDEMARS PIGUET created their first “OFFSHORE” collection, the brand revolutionised the world of sports watches. Being functional, robust and elegant was the concept behind those luxurious chronographs. The watches extremely water resistant and became a must-have for all collectors. Now 21 years later AUDEMARS PIGUET is presenting the new ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE TOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPH. This watch has an automatic calibre of 2897 which has been specially developed for this edition. Composed of 335 pieces with a bottom made of sapphire-glass, one can indulge in the beautiful craftsmanship and precision of this masterpiece which takes an experienced watch maker 3 days to assemble. With a carbon dial and the chunky finishing, this watch exudes a sportive chic, without overpowering the wrist. Finished manually, this watch is the epiphany of the finest know-how and a great addition to every men’s wardrobe. -27-
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The “KERALA” is a centre-series in the collection by RAINER BRAND. Now the watch-maker added a real rarity – a FLYBACK chronograph. It’s one of the few watches worldwide where it is possible to stop, to zero and to restart a short time measurement with only one print. The KERALA FLYBACK is limited to 250 unities in total which are going to be produced at a rate of 50 per year. The combination of the black clock face with the addiction of luminescent stripes makes the KERALA FLYBACK appear casual without loosing it elegant appeal. With the new chronograph RAINER BRAND still remains in the understated beauty of the design and the strong individuality hidden behind each unit. This watch is a one of a kind purchase that will separate you from the crowd.
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New york FASHION WEEK S/S 15 SHOWS
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INTERVIEWS
IMPRESSIONS BY DUSTIN HOLLYWOOD
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LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S 15 92
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IMPRESSIONS BY JONATHAN SCHLINGEMANN
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SHOWS @ MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK NEW YORK S/S 15 -32-
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MONIQUE LHUILLIER BCBG MAXAZRIA CHRISTINA YI JAY GODFREY KATI STERN VENEXIANA ATHLETA
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Monique Lhuillier Opening up with a V-neck dress embellished with floral appliqué, the Monique Lhuillier show was a fantastical delight for the exhausted fashion folks of the Spring/Summer ‘15 season of New York Fashion Week. As expected from a spring/summer collection, the use of the floral embellishments dominated Lhuillier’s newest collection, albeit in a way which added exuberance and richness to the overall aesthetic of each individual garment. In a logistical and quite straightforward manner, adaptable pieces to one’s everyday wear were presented first, with evening dresses following during the latter half of the catwalk show. Emphasis on accentuating and flattering a imagined wearer’s midsection was achieved through specific pieces such as a textured peplum top adorned in floral decoration, and structured jackets bearing wide belts tied around the waist. As with any conventional feminine brand, the color palette of Lhuiller’s
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Spring/Summer ‘15 stayed in a modest range, as variants of pink, purple and light blues constituted the majority of the clothes descending the runway. Closing the show, shimmering confetti fell from the ceiling, smoothly transitioning girly girls of the world into the forthcoming spring/summer ‘15 season
text SHAMMARA LAWRENCE photos GREG KESSLER
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BCBG MAXAZRIA Created in 1989 by chairman and CEO, Max Azria, BCBGMAXAZRIA has long been seen within the American fashion landscape as a contemporary brand which delivers luxury and ease within a midlevel price range. True to nature this season, was a delivery of conventional luxe bohemian garbs; the quintessential essence of the BCBGMAXAZRIA brand. Manila white and pastel draped dresses graced the runway during the public showing of the brand’s Spring/Summer ‘15 collection. Thirty five looks in total; all echoing the airy designs of seasons past, signaling what may some consider stagnation, but for BCBGMAXAZRIA, a tight grasp on core customers and one’s overall aesthetic. Teaming up with some of fashion’s most influential personalities, such as Aimee Song of the widely recognized blog, Song of Style, BCBGMAXAZRIA has shown great efforts of gaining a tight grasp on social media and the
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ways in which it can benefit a brand. Sharing exclusive runway photographs of the BCBGMAXAZRIA show through the picture sharing platform, Instagram, BCBG has taken their brand outreach up a notch, by engaging not only their key demographic, but also influencers who may speak to a potential consumer base they may not have connected with before. A way of fusing former conventional ways of marketing with that of the new.
text SHAMMARA LAWRENCE photos Billy Farrell Agency
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CHRISTINA YI CHRISTINA YI is the namesake label for the contemporary women’s and menswear brand by fashion designer Christina Yi. She has been creating and designing mini one of a kind collections since 2009. Since moving to New York City, Yi is focused on launching her Ready-to-Wear. During New York Fashion Week, she was showing her Spring/ Summer 2015 collection "Bone Collector". Yi creates "unforgettable designs for the fashion forward consumer" and focusses on "luxe garments and accessories for both men and women". Intense aesthetics are her signature feature that she created once more in next years collection. Fashion industry professionals have noticed Yi's talent and compared her designs to the likes of Rick Owens, Commes des Garcon, and Alexander McQueen. Since the introduction of her ready to wear collection in F/W 13, Yi has been mentioned by Lucky Magazine, Racked.com, and Runway Magazine Italy. Inspired by the archaeologists uncovering the Egyptian Pyramids, "Bone Collector" unveils is soft organic beauty of a modernedge woman. "(I am) digging into the root of -38-
the existence.", says Yi about her collection. A lot of beige, grey and white tones dominated the designs that could be best described as a combination of rock-edge and a natural chic with a special focus on details. Mesh, linen and other sheer fabrics were used on almost all of the looks, which made them appear light, yet with a twist. Many layers, on either the top or the bottom, gave the collection its flow and the cut-outs that were covered with sheer material added a edgy touch to it. Sandals for men and destroyed, layered pants or shirts rounded up the natural tone, while high heels that reminded one of ballet shows added a very feminine and delicate note to the women's looks. All in all, "Bone Collector" resurfaces the power of organic beauty and merges it effortlessly with a contemporary-structured look. Smooth tones of light grey and beige are calcified with shades of white. Combining these colors within textures such as leather, cotton, linen, and silk a natural esthetic is enhanced. Cutting through to reveal the hard strength of a contemporary women is the modern shapes of 3D printed accents and jewelry. text JANA WILMS photos CHRISTINA YI
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JAY GODFREY A former recipient of the Parson’s Alumni Achievement Award, New York-based designer, Jay Godfrey, creatively took us into a world imagined as the wild west for his Spring/Summer ‘15 presentation. Learning from the like of inimitable brand, Hugo Boss - where he held his first summer job - Godfrey has continued to reimagine the fashion sensibilities of the contemporary woman, well into his newest collection for his eponymous label, Jay Godfrey. While a relative newcomer to the New York fashion week circuit, as it is his second season presenting a collection in the context of fashion week, Godfrey arguably mastered the art of the presentation. Sequined encrusted numbers were lined up alongside more casual outfits, while musician, Idgy Dean, played her guitar and drums in the middle of the stage, which was completely covered in hay - after all, it is the wild west. Along the perimeter of the room where the presentation was held, was a sizable fashion
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crowd simultaneously soaking in the atmosphere and snapping pictures with their trusty gadgets. Quite instantly, after a quick peruse around the room and the collection, Jay Godfrey’s Spring/Summer ‘15 collection spoke to that of an inclusive range of audiences. Women tuxedo jackets, high top hats, lace dresses and skirts, there is a sense of attractiveness and presence for any and everyone in his newest collection.
text & photos SHAMMARA LAWRENCE
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Kati Stern Venexiana “She always has amazing evening-wear,” sounded a show attendee as I patiently waited to enter the space where the Kati Stern Venexiana runway show was held. Born and educated in Europe, Kati Stern’s deliverance of luxe fabrications, season to season, is highly remembered and regarded by various members of the press, retail buying teams, and avid fashion followers. Capping off the day on September 6th, the Venexiana show was filled solely with evening wear gowns, as hinted previously. Rich, diamond encrusted belts and shoulder straps accounted for most of the looks. With their hair pinned and tucked, the models looked photo op ready while treading the runway. Body hugging silhouettes were in favor for Kati Stern this Spring/Summer ‘15 season. As well as subtle inclusions which mirror her affinity for Rock ‘n’ Roll, as exemplified by the music choice. Interestingly, clothes aside, the beauty looks brazenly stood out,
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both in isolation from the clothes, and also as matched with coordinating looks. Heavily glossed lips, dramatic eyelashes reminiscent of the Swinging ‘60s, and blue eyeliner made its mark on the Kati Stern Venexiana runway this season. Another subtle way Kati Stern asserted her Rock ‘n’ Roll sensibility.
text SHAMMARA LAWRENCE photos KATI STERN VENEXIANA
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Athleta Taking us on a dance trip, activewear brand, Athleta, presented for the first time during New York fashion week during the Spring/ Summer ‘15 season. Styled by the inimitable stylist and editor, Zanna Roberts Rassi, the performance brand proved there is flexibility in how brands may showcase their newest collections to fashion and fitness aficionados alike. From synchronized faux workout routines, to choreographed dance numbers, Athleta’s introduction into the New York fashion scene was greatly felt through the brand’s interactive performance titled, “Crush of Adrenaline.” Rocking out to tunes from Beyonce’s eponymous label and other successful mainstream artists like Ariana Grande and her Billboard hit, Problem, Athleta’s Spring/ Summer ‘15 fashion presentation was a literal exemplification of how enjoyable working out can be. In turn, having professional dancers sporting their garments, Athleta played up the brands’ overall ethos, which is
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that of lifestyle company that not only sells clothes, but a way of living. Additionally, in understanding both the cultural landscape of fitness, and the rising trends amongst sportswear brands, Athleta couldn’t have chosen a better moment to be a part of the New York fashion week scene. And on the clothes front - as the outfits chosen for the presentation were worn throughout a ten to fifteen minute presentation - Athleta has further cemented themselves as a brand churning out durable and sartorially fulfilling sports apparel.
text SHAMMARA LAWRENCE photos ATHLETA
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INTERVIEWS @ NEW YORK FASHION WEEK S/S 15 -46-
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WENQI WU TATA CHRISTIANE SAMMLER BERLIN
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wenqi wu If there were to be one aspect of the fashion industry many find most exciting, discovering emerging talent has to be up there as a contender. Born in Shanghai, Wenqi Wu is a recent graduate of Parsons of the New School for Design, and yet, his work has already been praised by the likes of New York magazine’s fashion and women’s vertical, The Cut, as well as Style.com. Taking to the New York Fashion Week scene for the first time, Wenqi Wu showcased his newest Spring/Summer ‘15 collection in the hip venue, The Ace Hotel.
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text & photos shammara lawrence
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Keeping up with the cultural zeitgeist and rising talent within the fashion industry, Superior delightfully took in the talent that is Wenqi Wu amongst other fashion enthusiasts this past fashion week. Giving us a glimpse into his world, his sources of inspiration, and where you may find him and his namesake label in the future, Wenqi Wu is surely someone to keep an eye out for. # What was the genesis for your brand? I always wanted to create my own brand, and the idea and freedom to work for oneself has really been my dream. I hope to infuse the ‘Wenqi Wu’ brand with the same unique detail and craftsmanship, personality and creativity that brought me to fashion in the first place. # How have you seen yourself grow as a designer since you’ve started constructing clothes? Yes, every collection is a learning experience. It’s challenging to translate an idea into a sketch then a prototype. Also you need to consider the functionality along with the aesthetic. So I have been learning a lot constructing each style for the collection. # Take us through your newest collection. Where was inspiration sourced from? I was very inspired by Russian Constructivism from the 1920’s, especially the geometric paintings and photographs of Kazimir Malevich, Rodchenko, and Lissitzky. Constructivists applied experimental ideas and modern technologies into the creation of utilitarian objects; the idea of designing and experimenting with conventional and unconventional materials into something utilitarian really fascinated me. I wanted to -49-
bring the Constructivist ideas into a contemporary context by experimenting with various materials on different surfaces. The collection has a big emphasis on lines, shapes and proportions in a sartorial and poetic way, but at the same time it’s very experimental and modern. # Do you have any favorites amongst your most recent collection? I love every single piece in the collection. If I have to pick my favorites among the collection, the embroidery jacket with linen binding detail is really great, because the organza material is really light, and the embroidery pattern creates another dimension. Even though the jacket is asymmetrical, it’s really easy to wear, and a wonderful over layering piece for styling. The bias cut embroidery sweatshirt is really great also, another great over layering piece. The jumpsuit is also a key piece for the collection; really easy to wear but also has this contradiction between the tailoring detail and the hinge of sexiness, which makes the piece interesting. The bomber jacket is one of my favorites. The collage detail between the digital printing fabric and silk cotton create this really interesting combination. The box pleat Combo Dress is a great piece, easy to wear, and the contradictions between lamb leather and embroidery fabric is really great. Last but not least is the shirtings of the collection, very minimal, playing the idea of lines and shapes, but really modern and crisp. # Do you have any plans you wish to fulfill in the coming months or years for the brand? Definitely trying to find a way to sell the collection to department stores and boutiques. I really think the brand has a great balance between experimenting with
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materials and techniques, but at the same time very utilitarian and wearable. I want the company to build step by step, getting recognitions from different press will also help me to get my message out. # In the fashion landscape, where do you see your brand, Wenqi Wu, fitting in? I don’t really want to define it, since it’s a very young company, I consider myself as an open price point designer. But I would vision my collections to be hang next to Zero+ Maria Cornejo, Isabel Marant and Damir Doma. I want the brand to have a strong sense of identity, uniqueness, but at the same time accessible. # Ultimately, what legacy and/or impression do you hope to leave as a designer? I want to create a brand to have this impression of modern, edgy, artistic, androgynous, sartorial style infuse with experimentation with fabrication and quality materials. Ultimately, I want to create a sustainable business, and to be able to create products that people may appreciate and love to wear.
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BERLIN SHOWROOM The recent season of New York fashion week was a season of many firsts; the showing of the BERLIN SHOWROOM in New York being one. Taking the transatlantic trek landing in Industria Superstudio in New York, Berlin based designers showcased their collections in a New York context for the first time for the Spring/Summer ‘15 fashion season. A long awaited introduction, labels Ame SĹ“ur, Antonia Goy, C. neeon, Cruba, DSTM, I'VR Isabel, Vollrath, Perret Shad, Sammler Berlin, Schmidttakahashi, Tata Christiane, and Vladimir Karaleev, occupied an open, clean space, free of the ruckus, cluster and commotion which usually accompanies a handful of showrooms in New York. A delightful aspect, as it was easy to go up to and engage with each and every designer whom were there onlocation representing both their brand and themselves. Talking to designers Rebecca Sammler of Sammler Berlin, and Tata, one half of the label, Tata Christiane, both talents were able to share their experiences and feelings about showing in New York for the first time, as well as insights on their newest collections, exclusively for Superior magazine.
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text & photos SHAMMARA LAWRENCE
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TATA CHRISTIANE
Established in 2007 by Tata and Hanrigabriel, Tata Christiane has built a reputation for itself as a label without gender or conceptual boundaries, willing to fuse the lines of costume and everyday wear through the juxtaposition of conventional silhouettes with brash, in-your-face designs. Sticking true to the brand and its aesthetic, Tata was wearing some of the brand’s designs at the Berlin showroom in New York. Willfully both for men and women, Tata Christiane can be seen as a unisex brand, molding to the sartorial choice of men and women, boy and girl, gender nonconforming and cisexuals. # What was the genesis for you brand? Where did the concept derive from? Gabriel and I studied in Paris, him in "Les Arts Décoratifs de Paris" architecture and design, and me at "La Sorbonne" philosophy and literature. Since we have 18 years, we do almost everything together. The original genesis is our friendship and a taste of the things and the worldview we have in common. Alongside my studies, I have always done internships with theater of costume designers, including Mine Barral Vergez to -54-
Paris and work for various project theater, circus and cinema. I was also doing hand knitting accessories for the Japanese market under my name. I was still working with Gabriel to give visual form through pictures. In Paris we created our band, Autist (former name Aniaetleprogrammeur), which has taken us in Berlin for concerts and residences. In contact with this city, I believe we have begun to identify us more then. It is the birthplace of the Tata Christiane Brand. As for our name it is a kind of tender and ironic tribute to the great aunt of Gabriel, who has an incredible look, very colorful and very offbeat . Beside that in France almost everyone has a "Tata Christiane". I will not say after the fact that the label was born from a concept in particular but more of a movement, an intimate insight, a passion and a desire to create and implement our vision of the world. # How have you seen the brand grow since its inception? The label was created in 2007. The three first years we mostly made unique pieces, a lot of hand work, costumes and shows,
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collaborations and more. Not having done a fashion school and not being very informed business fashion, we gradually learned, observed around us, and developed the structure of our self made business in order to have a first collection. During a "Designer Sales" in Berlin for the Spring Summer Fashion week 2010 fashion week, we had the wonderful opportunity to be discovered and enjoyed by Yann Le Goec, the buyer of the japanese concept store, "WUT" in Tokyo. He began selling the brand through only unique items in WUT, and when we were ready to present our first Collection "Comet Club", we had the chance to be distributed in Japan by WUT and we found another distributor in Hong Kong, among others. Then we had more and more work, but we want to produce in Berlin. So we work to improve our work and atelier every season through the new collections. Gabriel is working on print, graphic design and website. I take care of everything else. And we still have the Band, Autist. So finally we dont sleep so much.
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# Take us through your newest collection. Where was inspiration sourced from? With each new collection, we try to renew the language of our print. Then Gabriel start with some technique he didn’t use yet and do some test and try. For this collection we started from my obsession to travel on an island. I think because of the fact that we spend all our time in the studio. This island is an island of our fantasy. There is this song of Jacques Brel "Une île": An Island An island off hope Where men would not be afraid And sweet and quiet as your mirror an island Claire as Easter morning Offering ocean languor In each wave siren come Come my love There would be much these crazy Who tell us to be wise
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This is one song of soundtrack of the collection. It works in general rather impressionistic collages by our desires. We wanted a drawn line. Something more childish but would be more serious as a child can be. Hawaii is because this is the first island that met our dreams awake. But it is a fantasy Hawaii, not realized. It would be the tourists of this inner dreams. There is the gentle color then, the delicacy of some embroidery.For the fabrics I choose to mixe different textures and some really soft polyester, beside the coton. There is this other song that accompanies the collection, "Over the Rainbow" performed by Israel Kamakawiwo'ole, Hawaiian singer, "The Gentle Giant." # Do you have any favorites amongst your most recent collection? I really like the new collection, I like the print with the puzzle pieces and Palmstrees a lot, I really like the yellow of one of the fabrics. It is hard to say because I think I like the softness and the flexibility of this collection. and all the pieces are combined.
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# While we [people] may not necessarily know what the future lies, do you have any plans you wish to fulfill the coming months or years for the brand? I wish/hope we can continue to grow slowly while developing our structure here in Berlin to employ more people. # In the fashion landscape, specifically that of Berlin, where do you see yourself and your brand fitting in? Like a crazy aunt. # Ultimately, what legacy and/or impression do you hope to leave as a designer? Perhaps the same feeling than this day when a 65 year old pharmacist bought a large sequin bolero made of organza, cut and strung by hand. When he first told me he wanted to buy that piece I did , only half believed him until he was finally returned and gone very happy on his bike with the bolero on his back.
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SAMMLER BERLIN
Quite a fixture in the Berlin fashion scene, Rebecca Sammler took to the New York stage for the exhibition of the Berlin showroom in Industria Superstudio, alongside many other Berlin based designers. Through her brand, Sammler Berlin, Rebecca has provided luxury to a multitude of women looking for bespoke pieces which are made with great attention to detail, both in cut and in its material makeup. A 2011 graduate of the renown Berlin university, Universität der Künste, and a strong believer in sustainability, Rebecca Sammler of Sammler Berlin, proves courtiers are alive and kicking in this day and age. # Is it your first time in New York? No, not my first time. I mean it’s my first time I’ve taken part in the Berlin showroom. I’ve been to New York about ages ago. # Do you have any American customers or are they usually European? Usually European. I mean, it’s ‘cause I wasn’t here before. Therefore I really hope I can get clients here. It’s just a great way to show the collection. -57-
# And then you’re going to be going to Paris also, or no? I really had to decide if I should go to Paris or I go to New York. I thought because of the brand and everything, you know, I feel more closer to New York than Paris. # Do you have any favorite pieces? Yes, actually my PVC stuff which is completely new, and of course the furs.
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IMPRESSIONS @ MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK NEW YORK S/S 15 -58-
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AUGUST GETTY PARKCHOONMOO CHARLOTTE RONSON ETXEBERRIA HERVÉ LÉGER BY MAX AZRIA LUIS ANTONIO MALAN BRETON MESKITA TOME STREET STYLE
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AUGUST GETTY
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CHARLOTTE RONSON
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CHARLOTTE RONSON
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HERVÉ LÉGER by Max Azria
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LUIS ANTONIO
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LUIS ANTONIO
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MALAN BRETON
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MESKITA
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MESKITA
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TOME
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IMPRESSIONS @ LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S 15 -90-
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ASHLEY ISHAM ISSA MINKI CHENG PHOEBE ENGLISH UMA KANGAI DORA ABODI SHOPCADE PARTY
BY Jonathan Schlingemann -91-
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Ashley Isham -93-
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Ashley Isham
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Ashley Isham
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ISSA -99-
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Minki Cheng
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Phoebe English
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UMA KANGAI -105-
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DORA ABODI
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Shopcade Party
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Shopcade Party
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dress Alexander Mcqueen jacket Calvin Klein Jeans
OCTOBER 2014
Small Flowers Crack Concrete photography by David Cohen de Lara @ Unit styling by Renske van der Ploeg @ House of Orange hair & make up by Fabienne Jansen model Vera @ Code Management
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sweater Acne studios
OCTOBER 2014
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sweater Jil Sander suit Stella Mccartney
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coat & dress Vanessa Bruno shoes Adidas Stan Smith -118-
OCTOBER 2014
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jacket Acne Studios dress Valentino Red
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shirt Franklin & Marshall suit Blumarine
OCTOBER 2014
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sweater Stella Mccartney skirt Alexander McQueen shoes Adidas Stan Smith
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sweater H&M necklace Isabel Marant
OCTOBER 2014
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coat River Island jeans Citizens of Humanity
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Frankfurt STYLE AWARD 2014
FRANKFURT CAN DO FASHION
Frankfurt STYLE AWARD, which meanwhile has set up as an international talent and career platform, unites the new generation of fashion and design from the whole world including important dimensions in economy, commerce, the textil industry and the media. This year was the first time with an international announcement inviting participants from 400 school in 34 countries. The contest was supported by an alliance of strong industry and media partners and the country of fashion - France.
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GALA
The glamourous Frankfurt STYLE AWARD Gala took place at the new FRAPORT FORUM at the Frankfurt Airport. The finalists were able to show their UNITED DIVERSITY creations in the categories „UNIFORM“, „UNISEX“, and „UNICULT“ in front of a large audience and a jury of experts. The event ended with a big winning ceremony which included 15 different prizes. The very special prize this evening was the unforgettable fashion-trip with Dominique Deroche to famous French fashion couture houses and a visit to the French talent contest „Festival International des Jeunes Createurs de Mode Dinard“. Dominique Deroche served as right hand to Yves Saint Laurent over 40 years and currently acts as representative of the Fondation Pierre Bergé Yves Saint Laurent.
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photos Šprpkronberg / Dietrich Skrock
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photography by Karl & Kristof landscape photography by Niklas Marklund styling by Matthew Hensley hair by Cantrell Mitchell Jr. make up by Heith Chanel model Giza Lagarce @ NOUS Models -128-
OCTOBER 2014
jumpsuit Stone Cold Fox
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top & pants Line & Dot shoes L'enfant Terrible purse Katherine Kwei
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jacket Line & Dot top Lats pants Burning Torch shoes Coye Nokes
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top Phuong My shorts Harlyn shoes Carmen Steffens
OCTOBER 2014
dress Brian Lichtenberg
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top Second Female skirt Stone Cold Fox shoes Coye Noke -134-
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dress Stone Cold Fox shoes Carmen Steffens -135-
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jacket Harlyn dress & shoes Brian Lichtenberg
OCTOBER 2014
top & skirt Line & Dot denim jacket That's Totally Fine shoes Brian Lichtenberg
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ONLINE
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March 2014 OCTOBER 2014
SUBMIT
Y O U R EDITORIAL -139-73-
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photography by VERENA KNEMEYER photography assistant CHRISTOPHER MATTHIES styling by ANADJA MARA BRVAR hair & make up by VANJA LATINOVIC make up by Kati Mertsch & Anna Bokranz digital operator ROSARIO IZZO model ANNIKA MARIE LEICK @ MODELWERK hand model ALEXANDRA G. @ ProCAST
OCTOBER 2014
Ceci n'est pas de la mode -
AN ESSAY ON GUY BOURDIN
jacket NADJA MARA BRVAR skirt BY MALENE BIRGER bracelet VINTAGE
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top NADJA MARA BRVAR pants HELMUT LANG jewelry SABRINA DEHOFF
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top & skirt NADJA MARA BRVAR coat REALITY STUDIO socks FALKE shoes TOPSHOP
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top NADJA MARA BRVAR trousers BY MALENE BIRGER shoes REALITY STUDIO clutch RPL MAISON
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top URBAN OUTFITTERS pants FILIPPA K coat ANTONIA GOY necklace VINTAGE shoes STINE GOYA
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top WEEKDAY shorts NADJA MARA BRVAR trousers FILIPPA K earrings CHEAP MONDAY socks FALKE shoes GANNI
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top NADJA MARA BRVAR pants WEEKDAY ring BJORG
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coat MONKI top WEEKDAY shorts & scarf NADJA MARA BRVAR pants STINE GOYA shoes REALITY STUDIO clutch RPL MAISON
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OCTOBER 2014
coat WEEKDAY top NADJA MARA BRVAR pants BY MALENE BIRGER socks FALKE shoes GANNI earrings CRYSTAL GLASSES
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dress & necklace NADJA MARA BRVAR pants REALITY STUDIO bracelet CHEAP MONDAY rings SABRINA DEHOFF
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knit sweater Sunspel sweater Zimmerli pants Kilian Kerner -156-
coat Tim Labenda sweater SoPopular
OCTOBER 2014
coat Selected hoodie Dreamteam shirt Weekday pants Tim Labenda -157-
sweater Stylist's own belt (used as necklace) Tim Labenda
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sweater Zimmerli shirt Sunspel sweater SoPopular shoes Zign
sweater Tim Labenda shirt (used as scarf) Sunspel pants Aurelia Paumelle shoes Vintage
dark shirt dockers white shirt Sunspel pants Baldessarini shoes Vagabond
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coat Kilian Kerner jacket & pants Soulland sweater SoPopular shirt Weekday shoes tiger of sweden
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sweater Aurelia Paumelle glasses Mykita
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hoodie Dreamteam jeans K.O.I. underwear Zimmerli
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shirt (used as a scarf) dockers coat Freeman T Porter
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jacket Baldessarini sweater MALAIKARAISS sweater (around hips) SoPopular pants SoPopular shoes Vintage -162-
sweater SoPopular sweater (around hips) Kuyichi pants Tim Labenda
jacket Freeman T Porter shirt Sunspel pants Tim Labenda shoes Tiger of Sweden necklace Maison Scotch
OCTOBER 2014
coat Freeman T Porter sweater & shirt Sunspel pants Selected -163-
coat Henrik Vibskov white polo Sunspel shirt Mavi pants Aurelia Paumelle shoes Zign
coat & pants Weekday shirt Zimmerli shoes Vintage
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coat Weekday sweaters SoPopular
sweater Tim Labenda shirt Sunspel turtleneck Stylist's own
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jacket Altewaisaome pants Tim Labenda tank top Zimmerli
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coat Stutterheim vest Weekday tank top Zimmerli pants Tim Labenda shoes Zign
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jacket tiger of sweden shirt Selected pants Kilian Kerner shoes Vintage
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coat Tim Labenda denim jacket Levi's Vintage tank top Zimmerli
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coat MALAIKARAISS
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Julin Athalia Lee
»ROYALE«
editoria from SEP @ Superior
Sean Trayner
»MIMICRY«
Caren Detje
»ME LIKE MENSTYLE«
Victor Santiago
Click on the image to view full editorial
»DON'T SPEAK«
Mimi Antolovic
»THE FLY«
Maryna Kopylova
»THE WHITE REVIEW«
OCTOBER 2014
Davide Ambroggio
»HOT WALL«
orials PTEMBER uperior online I
Veronika Wurfbaum
»TRUE WHITE KNIGHT«
Nicky Johnston
»FINDING NEMO«
Luiza Lehtinen
»PHOENIX«
Tabea Reusser
»STRAIGHT«
Alena Lobanova
»INTEGRAL«
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Dena Huys
»SPIRIT OF A HERO«
Ludo Hanton
»NEVER WANTED«
editoria from SE @ Superior
Jasper & Botan
»DESOLATE COVE«
Michael Wong
»TRANSFORMATION« Katharina Werle
»WHITE DISGUISE«
Svyatnenko Viktoria
»HOT SUMMER«
Click on the image to view full editorial
OCTOBER 2014
orials EPTEMBER uperior online II
Sheree Porter
»STRONG WILLED«
Angela Peron
»THE SPORTY GLAM«
Yan Bleney
»VERTIGO«
Julia Keltsch
»PHOTOSYNTHESIS«
Alice Fisher
»MONOCHROME«
Jacqueline Mikuta
»ALL WHITE & THE BLACK SWAN«
Alina Asmus
»YANDER«
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dress Vintage @ Central Costume Collective and Performance boots Stylist’S own ring Nordstrom choker H&M earrings & necklace Stella & Dot
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top Vintage @ Central Costume Collective and Performance dress & ring Stylist’s own skirt Sanctuary earrings Stella & Dot -176-
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dress Vintage @ Central Costume Collective and Performance boots Stylist’S own ring Nordstrom choker H&M earrings & necklace Stella & Dot -179-
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top Dolce and Gabbana skirt Press bustier Stylist’s own earring Macy’s harness Free People -180-
OCTOBER 2014
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dress Way-In Clothing Co. skirt & belt stylist’s own necklace Stella & Dot
OCTOBER 2014
dress Vintage @ Central Costume Collective and Performance ring stylist’s own tights True Rock
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blouse Living Dead Souls earrings Stella & Dot bustier & belt Stylist’s own skirt Sanctuary -184-
OCTOBER 2014
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Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com
coming out on October 31st 2014
# NOVEMBER 2014