SUPERIOR ONLINE July 2013

Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com

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p r e m i u m o r d e r d u e s s e l d o r f SPR I N G — SU M M ER 2014

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# I m p r i n t SUPERIOR MAGAZINE Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin www.superior-mag.com connection@superior-mag.com Publisher SUPERIOR Publishing UG (haftungsbeschränkt) Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin Chief Editor V.i.S.d.P. Tom Felber / tom@superior-mag.com Photography Director Marc Huth / marc@superior-mag.com fashion Director Simon Heeger / simon@superior-mag.com art Director Jesse Benjamin / jesse@superior-mag.com Editorial Department editor@superior-mag.com Advertising advertising@superior-mag.com PR Management press@superior-mag.com Superior Magazine accepts no liability for any unsolicited material whatsoever. Opinions contained in the editorial content are those of the contributors and not necessarily those of the publisher of Superior Magazine. Despite careful control Superior Magazine accepts no liability for the content of external links.

Any reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited

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#  Editorial

Dear readers,

Juan Antonio Samaranch used to say "... the best Olympic Games ever ...". For us we can say that last week's Berlin Fashion Week was our best ever. MANY THANKS to the fantastic team of Angela Regenbrecht, Elena SchrĂśder, Eszter Magyar, Janina Richter, Marcel Debong, Marieke Nischer, Moritz Brandenstein, Nico Ernst, Robin Kater, Tanita Hecking and Victoria Richter.

We saw nearly 30 shows of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin.

For most of them you find the show video, show and backstage galleries and the reports on our homepage. Some of the most impressive presentations we picked for our Berlin Fashion Week Special. There you also find interviews with some designers.

Berlin Fashion Film Festival took place for the second time and we believe that it was a very successful event. An absolutely highlight for us was the opportunity to meet Charlie Le Mindu for an interview and to see his fabulous fashion show at night.

You also find the interview and lots of photos in our Berlin Fashion Week Special.

Another highlight was the Photo Shooting we made at the Dissonance Area of PREMIUM International Fashion Trade Show. Two male models, one female model and a couple of cool labels ... See the editorial in our Berlin Fashion Week Special.

Beside Berlin Fashion Week we have nine exciting fashion editorials from all across the world.

Enjoy our July issue ...

Best, Tom & Marc

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Issue July 2013

Editorial & Imprint -14-

# Berlin Fashion Week Special

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# Editorial Raen Badua »Son of a Gun« -94-

Briony Ridley »Hall Pass« -108-

Oliver Blohm »Hatzfraß / Fast Food« -116-

Heiko Laschitzki »Runaway Girls« -128-

Anne Nicolajsen »Coco Magnifique« -144-

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Michael Bader »Peter Joppich« -152-

Frank Lohmann »SOMMERGLØD« -162-

Sasha Lebedeva »Watch me« -168-

Lauretta Suter »Billie« -178-

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Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com

Berlin fashion week special s/s 14

Dawid Tomaszewski -22Sopopular -26-

Live Shooting »Dissonance« -30-

Istanbul Next -44-

Glaw -52-

Charlie Le Mindu -58-

Patrick Mohr -66-

Michael Sontag -72-

Fashion Week Diary by Robin Kater -76-21-

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The light is dim, but it is a warm light. Slightly strange, monotonous electronic music sounds.

Out of the darkness comes the first model on the catwalk. Black, flowing harem trousers and a short sleeved blouse with print - what exactly is not obvious at first the sight.

DAWID TOMASZEWSKI — ABOUT EXPLORING AND DISCOVERING

The Polish-born Dawid Tomaszewski calls his fashion ‘New Couture’. Because he creates fashion with couture claim, yet wearable. High quality materials and precious details are characteristic of the designs of the 33-year-old designer. Always influenced by personal experi- # Your past two collections were inspired by your journeys to Lisbon. What was so inspiring ences: travel, contemporary art and music. in this town?

Lisbon seems like another world for me. Last year I went there again and again. Just back a couple of weeks ago. There I met great people and discovered a fascinating culture. Currently I am learning Portuguese as well. Lisbon is increasingly becoming my second home.

In July 2012, Tomaszewski presented his first collection which was inspired his journeys to Portugal. Six months earlier he had travelled to Portugal the first time. Since then, the designer is thrilled of the landscape of Lisbon. He repeatedly told to be enthusiastic about the Fado music. His collection transferred these influences: traditional Portuguese Azulejos mosaics and graphic art by Eduardo Nery were reflected in the extravagant designs. # Art and Culture always seem to have a big part in your collections.

Art is very important in my life. In my circle of friends are many artists whose work I really appreciate. Music also inspires me a lot. I listen to music all day. And as I work on my collections.

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# How does this involve?

Each collection starts with an exhibition of artists, architects and musicians. In recent months, I have studied extensively with the furniture design of the Bauhaus designer Marcel Breuer. The weave and the graphic pattern of his works are very present in my new collection.

Graphical weaves form a connecting thread in Tomaszewski's summer collection for 2014.

The designer transmits these patterns in largescale prints on shift dresses and silk trousers.

Fine pearl embroidery also protrudes haptic this graphic pattern. # Classic elegance is one of your aims. How your understanding of elegance does has developed?

My image of elegance has matured over the years and thus become even quieter. My aim is to create timeless fashion. I do not like the fast pace of the industry. I'm thinking over and over again on my understanding of modern, timeless elegance. # And how this is reflected in your collections again?

The quiet in my understanding of elegance can be seen especially in my past winter collection, which was exclusively black. I always had a great respect of reducing my designs to black exclusively. Because black absorbs so much. And I was afraid that the identity of my clothes could be swallowed by the black.

The shows of the designer are always filled to the last seat and finish mostly with thunderous applause. In January 2013, Dawid Tomaszewski closed the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin with a highly acclaimed collection. For his winter collection, he reduced his palette exclusively to deepest black, focused on his detailed shapes.

Skilful material contrasts, such as waving silk and net fabrics with Cubist graphical structure, as well as shiny leather and latex, gave the dominant black of the collection a varying intensity.

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#  Like this image of elegance fits into your environment? After all, today Berlin is not exactly known for its elegance.

In my environment I see a lot of stylish women. However, I live and work in Charlottenburg.

If I walk with my dog, I keep seeing women who look great. And I think it's important to say that to these women. Nowadays, we often forget that. #  In addition to Lisbon, so you also characterizes Berlin your environment?

The way I currently explore Portugal, reminds me strongly when I came to Berlin 14 years ago.

The city was quite different. But the city is also developing tremendously in recent years. The presence of investors, artists and musicians characterizes the city noticeable. There is only the lack of industry. But parallel to, the fashion scene is constantly developing. As in the twenties, a fashion industry in Berlin could re-establish. I am optimistic.

Interview by MARCEL DEBONG Photography by ROBIN KATER

Dawid Tomaszewski Show Video|Photo Gallery|Show Report -25-

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SOPOPULAR Interview by Tom Felber Photography by Robin Kater

Last week was a good week for the Berlin based label SOPOPULAR. First they presented successfully their Spring/Summer Collection 2014 at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin and then they won the second place at the prestigious Start Your Fashion Business Award.

SUPERIOR MAGAZINE met the SOPOPULARdesigner Daniel Blechmann for an interview.

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# Daniel, for the few people who haven't heard of your label. How would you characterize SOPOPULAR? SOPOPULAR stands for the gap between high fashion and streetwear. SOPOPULAR wants to create fashion that outlives seasonal trends, whilst at the same time reflecting the current zeitgeist. Classic style elements of men's fashion are given unconventional forms to create our own, clearly recognisable style, characterised by culture, architecture, and especially music. # When and why did you decide to specialize on menswear?

I decided to specialize on menswear in 2008.

There has never been a doubt about it. It just felt right! # Your last collection 'The Wild One' was inspired by the correspondent movie from the 50s with Marlon Brando. Where did you get your inspiration for your new collection 'Black Hole Sun' from?

Inspired by the 90's and the grunge style with its musical heroes, the US-band Soundgarden provides with the song “Black Hole Sun” the matching track for the SS14-collection. Tadao Ando, a Japanese architect, influenced the shapes of the styles with minimalism, directness and geometric shapes. These characteristics establish the new collection in a clear design presented in the typical SOPOPULAR colours black, white and grey.

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# You are one of the three finalists of the 'Start your Fashion Business' Award. What does that mean to you? „Start Your Fashion Business“ is the biggest fashion award in Germany. It is very cool to be chosen as one of the top three finalists to take us to the next level within Germany. # You are one of the three finalists of the 'Start your Fashion Business' Award. What does that mean to you? „Start Your Fashion Business“ is the biggest fashion award in Germany. It is very cool to be chosen as one of the top three finalists to take us to the next level within Germany.

In my opinion, the jury is filled with people who have a big standing in the fashion industry such as Christiane Arp or Alfons Kaiser. Being a menswear label, I appreciate being recognized in this contest. # How important is it for you as a fashion designer to live and work in Berlin?

To be honest, Berlin is my home! It feels good to do my job in this city because here are my family and friends. From a fashion point of view, Berlin is cheaper and less competitive than for example Paris or London. And most importantly it is affordable! Furthermore, I think Berlin still has to grow but at the same time it has a lot of potential to be recognised internationally. It feels good to be a part of this development. # And where do you see yourself in 5 years?

Private, hopefully happy and healthy.

Regarding SOPOPULAR, I would like the brand to become sufficiently recognised and successful internationally so I could live from it as fashion is my passion.

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SOPOPULAR Show Video|Photo Gallery|Show Report

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photography by marc huth styling by moritz Brandenstein, tom felber

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sissi w ears : b l o u s e h ermione f l y nn j a c k e t run d h olz t r o u s e r s ros t f rei b y ane t t r ö s t el s h o e s run d h olz

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anh-son wears: t a n k t o p k o k on t o zai j a c k e t b ar b ara i gongini t r o u s e r s b y ungmun s h o e s o d eur

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anh-son wears: t - s h i r t b y ungmun seo c a p b y ungmun seo t r o u s e r s t o t h em s h o e s o d eur d ennis w ears : t - s h i r t t o t h em c a p t o t h em t r o u s e r s umasan s h o e s o d eur

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anh-son wears: s h i r t o d eur j a c k e t k o k on t o zai t r o u s e r s k o k on t o zai s h o e s k o k on t o zai b r a c e l e t k o k on t o zai d ennis w ears : t a n k t o p t o t h em j a c k e t k o k on t o zai t r o u s e r s k o k on t o zai s h o e s k o k on t o zai b r a c e l e t k o k on t o zai

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s h i r t d emoo par k c h oonmoo t r o u s e r s umasan s h o e s o d eur

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s h i r t h ermione f l y nn j a c k e t umasan t r o u s e r s h ermione f l y nn s h o e s d emoo par k c h oonmoo h a t ilariusss g l a s s e s k u b oraum

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shirt odeur j a c k e t k o k on t o z a i tank top (background) tothem

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j a c k e t k o k on t o zai t r o u s e r s k o k on t o zai b r a c e l e t k o k on t o zai

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s h i r t b ar b ara i gongini h a r n e s s b ar b ara i gongini s h o e s o d eur g l a s s e s k u b oraum b a c k p a c k b ar b ara i gongini

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p u l l o v e r o d eur c o a t b y ungmun seo t r o u s e r s b ar b ara i gongini sweats eh r men o ezara s o d eur s c a r f zara men t r o u s e r s acne

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t a n k t o p k o k on t o z a i j a c k e t b a r b a r a i g on g ini t r o u s e r s b y u n g m u n s eo shoes odeur

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photography by marc huth styling by moritz Brandenstein, tom felber make-up & hair by eszter magyar models sissi pohle @ ps model management dennis schröder @ model pool anh-son pham @ seeds management assistants nico ernst, angela regenbrecht special thanks to premium international fashion trade show at station-berlin

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ISTANBUL NEXT Interview by TOM FELBER Photography by ROBIN KATER

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Fashion builds a bridge between Berlin and Istanbul. For the second time Linist, together with the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism, present avant-garde designers from Istanbul at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin under the motto 'ISTANBUL NEXT'. This time Asli Filinta, Ece Gözen, Nazlı Bozdağ and Nevra Karaca came to show their Spring/Summer 2014 collections. SUPERIOR MAGAZINE talked to the four designers.

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NAZLI BOZDAG # Please tell us about you as a designer living and working in Istanbul. What makes it special for you working in this city?

The energy of the chaos and the soul of a city which hasn't finished its evolution. I feel stimulated all the time. # What should people know about your fashion? What is characteristic for your label? Where do you generally get your inspirations from for your fashion?

I am very much inspired by the idea of a contemporary woman who keeps her sensuality alive. Everything begins from there and I build around. # How important is it for you to present your collection especially in Berlin?

I think Berlin has a lot of similarities with Istanbul. The young population, the underground scene and the diversity. So I am happy to merge my idea of fashion with Berlin's spirit.

Nazli bozdag & ece gözen & nevra karaca Show Video|Photo Gallery|Show Report -45-

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ASLI FILINTA # Please tell us about you as a designer living and working in Istanbul. What makes it special for you working in this city?

It’s easy to get access to my own roots, discover my own culture and history. And especially after all these happening in Istanbul, I cannot think of any place else than Istanbul. It's the perfect place to be right now! # What should people know about your fashion? What is characteristic for your label? Where do you generally get your inspirations from for your fashion?

I usually create my own world through my designs, and always from my own culture and story. And this is because I like to search for my own roots and history and I like to learn a lot.

Maybe one day if I know enough about my own culture (which is not quite possible) then I could start getting inspirations from the Indian color festival or maybe Japanese Cherry Blossoms. # Tell us about the collection you present at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin? What is the collection's message?

There is no message, it's about creating your path, your map for your own new world. # How important is it for you to present your collection especially in Berlin?

I always love the energy, the creativity, and the reflection of the youth! I am very much excited to see their reaction to my designs.

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asli filinta Show Video|Photo Gallery|Show Report

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ECE GÖZEN # Please tell us about you as a designer living and working in Istanbul. What makes it special for you working in this city?

As a designer it doesn't matter much where I actually live as far as I am happy on the inside, this is what matters most. In Istanbul I am able to obtain this peace and happiness for myself and this is reflected in my designs and the design processes that I am working in.

# Tell us about the collection you present at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin? What is # What should people know about your fash- the collection's message? ion? What is characteristic for your label? Where do you generally get your inspirations from for My new collection is inspired by and called your fashion?

'Graphene'. Graphene is a material composed of pure carbon, with atoms arranged in a regular We are living in a wonderful universe. There hexagonal pattern and this material is the main are arts, mathematic, science and technology in inspiration behind my new Spring Summer Colthe universe. In all of my collections I am inspired lection 14. The pattern which is geometrically by the universe as a whole, science and technol- inspired is mixed with fluid shapes. The shapes ogy. I'm trying to combine and reflect the knowl- and the vibrant color palette ranging from white, edge that I'm gathering and transform it into my black and lilac gives the 'sportcouture' creations designs and the pieces that are going to be worn. an energetic vitality.

So people are wearing kind of meaningful clothes that are transporting information. I want them # How important is it for you to present your to think while getting dressed because every collection especially in Berlin? season I am telling them a new story about the universe. I define my style as 'sportcouture'. My I think Berlin is on its way to be as much a fashion goal is to get to the point where my cus- centre of fashion like Paris or London. I think tomers are anticipating the new knowledge or people are bored now by the clichéd visions of scientific stories that Ece Gözen is going to tell the old centres and are looking for new inspithem each season and make them investigate rations. Berlin is rising like a star in this sense. about it. I think I chose the very entertaining way Alternative and different designers are making of sharing this knowledge via fashion. My fash- themselves heard and there are a lot of new dision is a lot about geometry because ‘God always coveries coming from Berlin. For this reason I am geometrizes’ (Plato). very excited to show in Berlin soon!

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NEVRA KARACA #  Please tell us about you as a designer living and working in Istanbul. What makes it special for you working in this city?

I think Istanbul is a great source of inspiration for me and it is full of irony. You can transform yourself into more than one identity at the same day and can chat all of a sudden with different people who haven't crossed your mind lately about a subject which effects people's buildings, streets and everyday lives. #  What should people know about your fashion? What is characteristic for your label? Where do you generally get your inspirations from for your fashion?

I want them to perceive me and my brand as focused on innovative design and quality. It is important for me to create my collections within appropriate lines and characteristics. And also important to strengthen these different lines with stories, thoughts and forms. I believe that everything starts from nature and returns to nature. I think nature is the essence of manifestation and art. I think these effects will be revealed in my next collections. However this does not mean that I am not impressed by other things than nature. I think it is the diversity of the universe that I am affected from.

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# Tell us about the collection you present at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin? What is the collection's message?

My inspiration for the Spring Summer Collection is TOPOLOGY, the mathematical study of shapes and spaces. The study of properties that are preserved under continuous deformations is translated by 3D inspired creations into fashion. You can also see the sharp lines in architectural and cyber punk for inspiration in my designs. Red, Green, Grey and White are dominating the colour palette.

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# How important is it for you to present your collection especially in Berlin?

Strictly speaking I and our brand pay attention to Germany. Because Germany is a convenient place for the nature of Nevra Karaca No:7 brand. For this reason we hope your fashion show will be good in Berlin.

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glaw SUPERIOR MAGAZINE met the GLAW designers Maria Poweleit and Jesko Wilke during the fitting for their fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin for an interview.

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The Berlin-based designer duo Maria Poweleit and Jesko Wilke found an open gab in the market with batik leather. After graduating from the international college of art and design, ESMOD, in 2011, they started their own label ‘GLAW’.

Once the business plan was set up, their first collection was launched introducing batik leather and the biker jacket as signature features.

Maria and Jesko want to design fashion for strong women who pay attention to high quality products. The ‘GLAW’ woman is not only supposed to be strong but fragile and self-conscious at the same time, which one can notice by only taking one look at their designs. Contrasting materials like leather and soft silk create a feminine and strong look. By experimenting with different materials the designers came up with the idea of batik leather. Since smooth leather cannot be dyed as easily, it’s being produced outside of their studio. But with suede they themselves use rubber bands to pinch off, making every piece a unique item. By folding the leather differently every time, the designers try to create new patterns so that batik will be part of their following collections in various forms used with leather as well as silk.

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glaw Show Video|Photo Gallery|Show Report

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GLAW stands for contemporary and timeless fashion which is why Maria and Jesko find their inspiration in various areas of life not focusing on what is going to become a trend. The strong woman still is and will be the central subject of their designs. One of their inspirations for the new collection among other was Jane Birkin. As before, every piece of the Spring/Summer 2014 collection can be combined in several ways making their designs appealing to women of every age and profession. ‘Batik, embroidery, leather, silk, pleats, lacing, crystal, metallic’, describes Jesko the collection shortly.

Both can imagine designing menswear and accessories. For them even plus size and maternity fashion would be a nice project to start although they want to focus on womenswear first. ‘We want to concentrate on doing one thing but therefore good before starting to work on thousand projects at the same time’, said Maria Poweleit. Scarfs are coming with their Spring/ Summer 2014 collection including a silk one with an allover crystal print.

Until now Maria Poweleit and Jesko Wilke are selling the designs via their online-shop. They would like to have at least one shop, maybe even two or three in five years. There should not be anything getting in the way of this nice duo with their contemporary and wearable fashion.

Interview by Tanita Hecking Photography by Robin Kater

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CHARLIE LE MINDU — ON THE TRACKS OF THE SCULPTOR Charlie Le Mindu, hairstylist and designer, is known among other for creating wigs and dresses for Lady Gaga. The 26-year-old was the star guest of Berlin Fashion Film Festival and presented his collection "Gold Sabah" in collaboration with make-up artist and body-painter Isamaya Ffrench at the Award Gala. SUPERIOR MAGAZINE met him backstage before the show and talked with him about his work, fashion film and future projects.

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# Monsieur Le Mindu, you are known for creating wigs and dresses made of hair or nails and for presentations that are different from what people are used to. What kind of reaction do you want to create by sending naked models down the runway?

I don’t want to have any reaction when I’m sending naked models down the runway. For me it is not a big deal. Naked girls have been used in the art industry for a long time. People in fashion are always so easily shocked. I don’t want to shock anyone, but I like extreme reactions to my shows. If someone comes to my show I want them to have fun, to love it and if they don’t, I can understand. I just want them to show emotions and until now it always worked. # You have also designed wigs shaped like giant lips. Where do you get inspired?

It always depends. To me Lips, for example, are very sexual and sensual, but covering them with hair is kind of disgusting. So I wanted to create a mix of those opposites. Lips are very fetish and hair is very fetish. By putting them together something beautiful but also gross is formed. But in general my inspirations come from film directors like John Waters and Pedro Almodóvar.

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# If you could design a wig for one particular person, who would it be and what would the wig look like?

Actually I have two persons. One that I love is Grace Jones, I don’t know what kind of wig I would do though. The other one, I loved her since I was a kid, is Cher. I’m not a fan of pop music. I really don’t like pop music, but she has the biggest wig collection. # Do you think wigs could become an accepted accessory among society like shoes or handbags?

Yes, it already is accepted. It depends on the country though. In London for example so many girls wear wigs. I have a lot of clients there. I don’t think people wear wigs in France and in Germany. But in Japan everyone has been wearing wigs for ten years. It’s a good way of changing your hair without ruining it. Until two or three years ago people related them to sick patients or prostitutes, but I think people now understand that it is just an accessory.

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# Do you think wearing a wig changes someone’s personality?

Yes, totally. That’s why I love wigs. If I put a wig on someone, their personality changes in a second. # Why do you want to encourage people to change their personality?

Well, when I have a client, I never try to change their personality. I try to keep them themselves or find who they are. That’s why I studied Hairdressing and Psychology. So, I always ask my clients what music they listen to, what kind of films they like and where they go out. I know their style and who they want to be then.

# Do you have any other material than hair that you want to work with?

No, I really love hair. Maybe pubic hair. I know it’s a little weird, but I think I might do a collection of merkins. Merkins are wigs for vaginas. There are lots of people who want them, for example, burlesque dancers. Actually merkins were used during the time of Marie Antoinette when prostitutes had so many diseases that they used them to hide everything. But I hope it’s not for the same reasons today. I don’t want to know what my clients are doing.

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# How would you define your work?

I wouldn’t say it is fashion. I don’t want to say I’m an artist either because it’s very arrogant.

Haute Coiffure started in the 90th with Odile Gilbert where hairdressers spend all their money, time and passion into sculptures made of hair.

So I would say I’m a sculptor. # Why did you decide to present your new collection at the Berlin Fashion Film Festival?

I did a film for the Fashion Film Festival last year and they invited me to show my collection here. And I love Berlin. I used to live here five years ago. The Berlin Fashion Week is cool, but all the young designers need to sell their clothes.

They need to make money, so, it’s good to bring some fun to Berlin, I think. I just want to create something that is nice for people to watch. And it is a good excuse to come and party as well.

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# Do you think that fashion film could replace fashion photography at some point in the future?

No, I don’t think so. Fashion film is a good way for designers to show the collection in a different way and make people understand what it is about. Because on the catwalk, people sometimes just don’t get it. Most of the time the press and buyers are sitting in the front row, but for all the fans and people who support your brand it’s nice to have films. They really can enjoy the collection then. I don’t think a photographer can be a film maker anyway.

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# Why not?

It’s like a hairdresser being a make-up artist.

Those are two completely different things. # How important is a hairstyle in a fashion film?

I always say the shoes and hair are most important. Women could be naked and they would be beautiful in any shapes, skinny or fat, because it finishes the look. But the film maker is more important. It’s not the hair or the makeup. It’s always the photographer and the model that are most important. If you have a great model and photographer you can do anything and it looks good.

Thank you very much, Charlie Le Mindu.

Interview by Tanita Hecking Photography by Angela Regenbrecht

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Photo from BfFF-Trailer

Watch all the Winners at BERLIN FASHION FILM FESTIVAL 2013

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patrick mohr HOMOGENEOUS OTHERNESS I n t e r v i e w b y M arieke F ischer Photography by ROBIN KATER

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SUPERIOR MAGAZINE met the designer PATRICK MOHR during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin at the G-SESSIONS Berlin opening at VOO Store.

“I’ve already had many tears in my eyes…I don’t like that handicapped people are banned from a normal life. Everybody’s ogling them, everybody has prejudices. But if you spend time with these people, you’ll get deeply touched.” Fashion designer Patrick Mohr speaks slowly and advisedly. This topic is important to him. With his spring/summer collection ‘Human’ he indicates the problems of the misfits, the ‘cranks’.

The lateral thinker of the German scene has already presented his clothes on homeless persons and lifeless creatures…

July 2013

Wheelchairs, pranced bodybuilders, sexless beings: The preview photos create discomfort and nosiness. What will happen during this installation? Patrick Mohr doesn’t show his collections in the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin tent, he has chosen an abandoned house.

Professional models like Franzi Müller and Katrin Thormann are wearing the unisex-garment. They are standing motionless between the others models: Bodybuilder, transgender, challenged persons. He creates his own unconventional world: The models are androgynous, genderless. Floccus grows on women’s cheeks.

Balian, formerly Yvonne, presents his muscles.

Next to him stands a man with Down’s syndrome. Patrick Mohr celebrates the otherness.

“I want to show through my work that these are normal people. I want to give them the feeling that we’re all the same.”

As usual, Patrick Mohr aims to eliminate the gender boundary what becomes visible through the loose jackets, dresses, trousers and shirts in combination to mostly dark colors and heavy materials. Every garment is different - anyway the collection builds a homogeneous whole. “It’s the first time that I’ve put a whiff of luxury to the streetwear-vanguard-elements. My label develops… Nevertheless I’ll stay by my roots!”

Read the full Interview (in German)

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Patrick mohr Show Video|Photo Gallery|Show Report -71-

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michael sontag BEHIND THE DRAPE I n t e r v i e w b y M arcel D ebong Photography by ROBIN KATER

Someone with weak nerves would probably froze with fear. Not Michael Sontag. When the young designer in summer 2009 learned that the renowned fashion critic Suzy Menkes will attend his first fashion show, but would arrive late, he responded calmly: "Well, then we start when she's there." And he focused on preparing the models for the catwalk. As far as the anecdote.

# Your work is not influenced by trends. You do not work from season to season. Which freedoms are granted on this way?

On this way, I can devote myself to the design process strengthened. I have more freedom to develop a garment. Ideas arise. I am able His unagitated designs made in silk, cash- to explore new ideas, which I can also drop and mere, wool and - new this season - denim con- then continue again. On this way, a garment is vince. High-quality materials characterize the also timeless and sustainable. creations. The linking element: the refined drape.

Sometimes soft flowing, sometimes almost # What is this design process you talked about? sculptural.

A large part of my shapes is draped. 90 or 95 percent, I would say. I develop a piece of clothing on the dress form. So, I am able to look at the body as a whole. I have more opportunities

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than when I design on the paper. At the same time, I also see what happens to the body. I see the proportions right.

Currently, I work with the inside and the outside of clothing. This sounds very abstract. I do not limit the inside and the outside of a dress.

So, the inlay and the lining become visible to #  How would you describe the production pro- the design of the garment to the outside. This cess from idea to the finished dress? is also reflected in the fabrics again. Therefore, I use fabrics that are traditionally provided for I always start at the design form. Then, the the inside of a garment as the parent material. shape is removed and transferred to paper. From this shape, a sample garment is then stitched #  What is the advantage over tailored clothes and tried. Step by step can be changes again. for you? Especially for your customers.

Then I finished it in original cloth.

Basically, one is not better than the other. I #  Although you never tell something about question classic forms of clothing with the way concrete inspirations, your personal moods I develop a garment. I question perfect fit. What always play a big role in your collections. Which actually is perfect fit? A standardized measure mood is currently visible in your fashion? that is supposed to fit everyone. That it does not.

My clothes fit itself.

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#  What does that mean?

This is already evident in the size. I do not produce size 2, 4 or 6. My clothes are available in S, M or L. Frequently, only in One Size. My customer should feel well dressed. The customer herself can play a bit with this draped shapes.

My goal is that the customer appropriates my design to herself and also can still contribute her personal note.

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michael sontag Show Video|Photo Gallery|Show Report

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BERLIN FASHION WEEK DIARY

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SON of a GUN photography by Raen Badua grooming by Sheenfol Benitez accessories by Vital Madness model/designer Tab R. David

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s l e e v e l e s s j a c k e t   T a b R . D a vid a m m o b r a c e l e t s   Vi t al M a d ness

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hall pass

photography by Briony Ridley styling by Aude Jamier make-up & hair by Claudia Rotoli model Laura Berlin @ Mega Model Agency production assistant Maximilian Combüchen

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Hatzfraß Fast Food

An experimental fashion theme with nuked Polaroids out of the microwave.

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shirt Julian Zigerli tie Mugler

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s h i r t P ane & Vin t ange t i e G i v enc y

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dress TOPSHOP necklace ONLY

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denim jacket  h&m

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B ER LI N E 4 – 6 I 10 9 6 3 S S A TR S ER Com LU C K EN WA LD H I @ f9 5 S To R E. I 8 5 3 3 8 0 2 +4 9 ( 0 ) 3 0 4 R E. C o m W W W.f 9 5 S To RS m. o P EN IN G H o U AY 11 A .m . – 8 P. ID fR – AY D moN . m A .m . – 6 P. S AT U R D AY 11 -189-

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