SUPERIOR ONLINE June 2013

magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com

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JULY 2–4, 2013

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SuPErior MagazinE Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin www.superior-mag.com connection@superior-mag.com PuBliShEr

SUPERIOR Publishing UG (haftungsbeschr채nkt) Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin

ChiEf EDitor v.i.S.d.p. Tom Felber / tom@superior-mag.com PhotograPhy DirECtor Marc Huth / marc@superior-mag.com faShion DirECtor Simon Heeger / simon@superior-mag.com art DirECtor Jesse Benjamin / jesse@superior-mag.com EDitorial DEPartMEnt editor@superior-mag.com aDVErtiSing advertising@superior-mag.com Pr ManagEMEnt press@superior-mag.com Superior Magazine accepts no liability for any unsolicited material whatsoever. Opinions contained in the editorial content are those of the contributors and not necessarily those of the publisher of Superior Magazine. Despite careful control Superior Magazine accepts no liability for the content of external links.

Any reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited

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June 2013

#  Editorial

Dear readers,

In about two weeks Berlin will turn into a fashion metropolis again - at Berlin Fashion Week designers from across the world will present their Spring/Summer 2014 collections.

In our #SELECTION you find part II of the presentation of selected labels from GREENshowroom and Ethical Fashion Show Berlin.

This time - in May we had Accessories and Shoes - we showcase five wonderful examples how beautiful clothes are when highest ecological and ethical standards meet great design.

Under the theme #TALK don't miss two interviews.

With Salvatore Di Bella, jury-head of the Frankfurt Airport Style Award we talked about the success story of the award so far and what the future development should be. And you see three of Salvatore Di Bella's favorites.

For the second time Berlin fashion Film Festival takes place during Berlin Fashion Week. We took the occasion to talk to the organizers and co-founders Lisa Filippini, Frank Funke and Niccolò Montanari about fashion film and the event. In this June issue and online on our homepage you will find fashion films, more interviews and a lot more around fashion film. #EDITORIAL offers also something new. You probably have seen that we showcase a lot more editorials since this month. On our homepage you find at least one new editorial each day. All of them you find also here in the June issue.

If you like to get your daily inspiration of fashion photography follow our BLOG and of course Facebook, Twitter, Google+ or Instagram.

Enjoy our June issue ...

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Issue June 2013

Editorial & Imprint -14-

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SElECtion in June

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EDitorial Editorials on superior-mag.com -34-

Neil Francis Dawson Âťin the lost landÂŤ -46-

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May 2013

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Julie Nagel »Bunkerjugend« -52-

Rachel Schraven »Electric Geisha« -72-

Emanuele Menduni »Turn off the light« -84-

Thomas von Aagh »Colors« -104-

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May 2013

Fashion magazines?

We’ve got a million free ones.

Issuu.com

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Christoph Kassette »Somewhere in between« -114-

Lupo Porschen & Johannes Kuczera »Rialto« -132-

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BERLIN fashion FILM FESTIVAL -98-

Frankfurt Airport Style Award -124-

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SUPERIOR EDITION #2 in our ONLINE-SHOP and get a 30% DISCOUNT by using this code ED2issuu

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#SElECtion in JunE grEEnshowroom & ethical Fashion Show berlin

As sensualists at heart, the passion for finest materials is the key of inspiration to every new collection. Haptic, textures and volume combined with laid-back comfort fits and feminine silhouettes create a piece-by-piece collection of lifetime favorites.

KATHARINA KAISER Sustainable Apparel sources their materials with great care on environmental consciousness as avoiding long distance transportation, manufacturing with local craft ship, concentrating on regenerated fibers as Modal and Viscose and sourcing wool fabrics from small European manufacturers.

For this Summer Season the Label will be working with finest rhubarb tanned leather, instead of tanned with aggressive chemicals. Due to the rhubarb extracts the leather obtains a very soft touch and a particular good smell. Jersey from non-violent silk is the second fabric introduction for S/S 14. Instead of cooking the cocoons whilst the silkworm is still inside, non-violent silk manufacturers only start processing the silk after the butterflies have emerged.

The creative process of designing a new collection always needs and has room for experimenting with new cuts, the perfect fit and almost forgotten methods as dying with natural color, like Black tea and Curry, or the Turkish marbling technique.

To ensure best workmanship, the collections are manufactured only in Germany. Therefore, we are able to benefit from precise German tailoring tradition, as well as from forgotten techniques like bobbin lace making.

With focusing on organic certified materials, precise tailoring, classic feminine design and sustainability KATHARINA KAISER Sustainable Apparels strives to create timeless pieces to enhance every woman’s wardrobe. www.katharinakaiser.com | Visit KATHARINA KAISER at GREENshowroom

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JOHANNA RIPLINGER is the brand name for ecologically sustainable and luxurious high fashion women’s wear, marked by its contemporary feminine style with pure shapes and refined details and prints. The label JOHANNA RIPLINGER is situated in Paris and is internationally positioned: French "art de vivre and style" combined with German “working values” and internationally sourced “precious know-how”, focusing on an approach with design and craftsmanship at its heart and respect for the environment and for human values at its core.

Natural and herbal dyes are made from locally gathered natural elements, for example, the dried flower petals, collected at Indian temples, where the flowers had been given as offerings to the gods. The elaborately dyed fabrics are all handmade by talented urban artisans. All materials used are exclusively noble natural fibers like silk, linen, and organic cotton, as well as cashmere, wool, and rare, naturally colored angora combed from respectfully treated French rabbits.

These components form the basis of the exquisitely designed spectrum of the JOHANNA RIPLINGER label, underlining delightful tones that appeal to today’s highly individual, yet global woman. www.johannariplinger.com | Visit JOHANNA RIPLINGER at GREENshowroom

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Photo: Sarah Dulay  M o de l : V a l e r i a @ E a s t W es t M o de l s

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‘Maximize the minimum’ is the briefest way to describe Elsien Gringhuis’ fashion.

Her design principal is completely based on sustainability. Form, function, material and finishing all contribute to a maximum performance fashion product; wearable, functional and contemporary. Designs with a long life span due to their quality.

Elsien focuses on highly innovative patterns reducing the waste to the max.

She is passionate to introduce new definitions for craftsmanship, innovation and sustainability.

Elsien Gringhuis (1980) graduated Cum Laude at the academy of visual arts in Arnhem (ArtEZ). She won the Createurope in Berlin, the Mittelmoda in Italy and was nominated for the Frans Molenaar-award. In 2009 Elsien presented her first collection during the Amsterdam Fashion Week. In 2011 she won the Green Fashion Competition and in 2012 the Fair Luxury Award. www.elsiengringhuis.com | Visit Elsien Gringhuis at GREENshowroom

Photo © EStEr graSS VErgara @ unit CMa

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Poetic feminine sensibility with uniquely urban sharpness.

The sympathetic Swiss brand with very tempting name Swiss Affaire represents wearable, unpretentious and resolutely modern, environmentally friendly fashion with devotion to beauty.

Elegant, refined and sensual collection is designed for women to feel uniquely individual, collection is very feminine but also very comfortable and wearable.

Swiss Affaire adheres to a clear line where materials and production are concerned. High-quality fabrics free of irksome chemicals, social responsibility, organic standards and carbon footprint is in major focus. But not only that, Swiss Affaire participate in animal welfare projects. The entire management team are vegetarians and big animal lover. That is why you will never find any fur and leather in Swiss Affaire collection.

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The complete collection is produced with huge care of detail and the highest possible level of quality. Pieces are hand decorated and lovely packaged in Switzerland.

At the GREENshowroom presents Swiss Affaire collection inspired by nature, freedom and purity. „Back to nature, without looking old fashion“. The designs are very classic simultaneously very contemporary. At the heart of the collection are beautiful t-shirts which can be ordered in very cute boxes.

Each part of collection is only produced in small numbers and sold to selected representative sales units. To keep this label unique. www.swissaffaire.com | Visit Swiss Affaire at GREENshowroom

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Alma & Lovis is a German eco-fashion label founded in 2011 by designers with nearly 20 years of experience creating organic and natural clothing.

Respect for the planet and its people is at the core of the company’s philosophy.

Mindful of the impact of textile and clothing production, sustainability is of primary importance to Alma & Lovis, as are social solidarity, respect for nature, ecological responsibility and resource efficiency. We utilize natural premium materials such as organic cotton, linen, ramie and silk, adhering to GOTS and other recognized certification standards. All products are manufactured under fair working conditions, with an emphasis on local and socially responsible production: clean and fair with respect to man and nature.

Alma & Lovis actively explores the relationship between the arts and fashion through close work with artists and participation in exhibitions. The topic for spring/summer 14 collection is Ethno meets Mondrean. These elements are mirrored in the materials and patterns, as well as in the color blocking for the individual styles. The style is pure and modern, suitable for daily business and for life’s special occasions. www.almalovis.de | Visit Alma & Lovis at Ethical Fashion Show Berlin

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Editorials on superior-mag.com

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CONNECTED TO FASHION

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MAGAZINE FOR YOUNG VANGUARD FASHION & ART PHOTOGRAPHY

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in the lost land photography by Neil fraNcis daWsoN styling by lisa NguYeN make-up & hair by JaNiNe pritschoW model charissa du plessis @ ice

top long tran spike cuff haDria necklace and cutout cuff bodysuit StyliSt'S oWn

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both dresses Long Tran l e a t h e r a r m b a n d s B l i ss L a u c h o c k e r a n d b r a c e l e t s P h i l i pp a G r ee n n e c k l a c e Id a E l sje shoes GreyMer

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dress long tran collar hanDKErChiEf belt giaMBattiSta Valli (CuStoMiSED)

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headpiece Chris Habana top Long Tran

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leather dress BliSS lau headpiece, rings ChriS haBana twisted bracelets ChriS haBana necklace zana BaynE for ChriS haBana perspex chain bracelet PhiliPPa grEEn

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dress Long Tran v i s o r Id a E l sje f o r G a v i n R a j a h leather crown SOBTKA

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bunkerjugend photography by Julie Nagel styling by sue dietz @ liganord make-up & hair by maike albeck @ liganord model kim ackermann @ the special

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jacket vintage marc jacobs t-shirt death by zero mesh-dress osklen leggins bambam @ urban outfitters shoes stylist own shades stylist own

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jacket aSoS (CuStoMizED) top VintagE Martin MargiEla rings h&M

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t-shirt acne studio pants balenciaga vintage shoes stylists own bracelet stylists own

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j a c k e t a l e x a n de r w a n g v i n t a g e top 3.1 philip lim vintage s h o r t s weekd a y s o c k s f a l ke shoes stylists own

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hotpants StyliStS oWn top & cap WEEKDay gloves roECKEl necklace h&M

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j a c k e t v i n t a g e m a r c j a c o bs t - s h i r t de a t h b y z e r o m e s h - d r e s s o sk l e n l e g g i n s b a mb a m @ u r b a n o u t f i t t e r s shoes stylist own shades stylist own

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hotpants StyliStS oWn top & cap WEEKDay gloves roECKEl necklace h&M necklace StyliStS oWn

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jacket StyliStS oWn tank top zara skirt toPShoP

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jacket MonKi top WEEKDay pants zara cap VintagE bag MCM shoes & jewlery

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hotpants StyliStS oWn top & cap WEEKDay gloves roECKEl necklace h&M

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metallic pink dress MaJE transparent jacket BErShKa flower ring h&M

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electric geisha

photography by Rachel Schraven styling by Emilia Regeer hair & make-up by Christel Man models Yo Yo @ Human Models assistant Margreet Lutgendorff special thanks to Umani Utrecht

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yellow silk dress riVEr iSlanD metallic platform sandals zara silver bracelet with black stones Six

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metalsic pink dress MaJE transparent jacket BErShKa transparent bracelet with stones Six

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f l o w e r d r e s s Ted B a ke r wooden platform heels Zara chain bracelet h&m

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white origami dress riVEr iSlanD metallic platform sandals zara flower ring h&M transparent earrings with stones Six

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white 3d flower jacket  Bershka

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p i n k 3 d f l o w e r d r e s s Ted B a ke r red pencil skirt h&m transparent earrings with stones h&m

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fur StyliSt oWn bluse luigi BorBonE

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turn off the light photography by emanuele menduni styling by barbara palladino make-up & hair by chiara corsaletti model debora omassi location marriot hotel -85-

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luigi BorBonE luCiano BaraChini

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bluse  luigi borbone c o l l a r   i d r i ss g u e l a i a t e l i e r

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fur stylist own s w e a t e r z a r a me n shoes luciano barachini s c a r f z a r a me n trousers acne

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BERLIN FASHION FILM FESTIVAL # Within the Fashion Week Berlin program for the second time The Berlin fashion Film Festival (BfFF) takes place. SUPERIOR Magazine talked to organizers and co-founders Lisa Filippini, Frank Funke and Niccolò Montanari. # Lisa, together with Frank and Niccolò, you are the organizers and co-founders of The Berlin Fashion Film Festival. Tell us a little bit about the festival.

LISA & NICO The idea of The Berlin fashion Film Festival began in 2011, in one of my friends' flat in Berlin. Nico and I began to illustrate the project to the designers and movie maker friends that we had invited; we had no electricity that night, so the whole flat was lit up with tea lights, which added a lot of atmosphere to the evening.

The initial idea was to work with a selected range of designers and combine live catwalk elements with fashion films, something that seemed to be on the rise. A series of coincidences led us to

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Frank, who had also been working simultaneously on the same project, just from a different angle. We had been organising fashion events for a few years, whereas he had been working on film production, which made our union seem like the most logical course of action. The more people we spoke to, the more we realised we were thinking too small, and that this was in many ways how fashion and the way we perceive it was heading.

FRANK It was really a gift meeting while we had more or less the same idea. A few years ago I discovered Fashion Film as a very interesting genre, especially in terms of engaging with "branded storytelling". One of my person-

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I LIKE THIS GIRL by Henrik Jessen

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al reasons, beside giving filmmakers a platform to show their work, was to bring BfFF to life, to show brands how much more they can do and achieve if they produce something more than the too often seen making-of videos or those where people seem to have re-discovered the use of kaleidoscope-effects as an art form (laughs).

FRANK Yes and beside the curators, we've assembled a unique selection of industry-leading professionals to assess each of our award categories. Another big difference to other fashion film festivals is the orchestration of BfFF. We are not only showing and awarding films, but producing a real, live show.

LISA That's right. We don't want to take # What makes The Berlin Fashion Film Festi- anything away from the live element of a fashval special or unique compared to other fashion ion show. We combine our screenings with live film festivals? fashion presentations, as we understand that fashion is something that should ultimately be NICO Our aim was to carefully curate a fash- seen and experienced live, but always selecting ion film programme, so that people could see very special fashion designers this year is CharBfFF as a point of reference when referring to lie Le Mindu last year Tom Van der Borght. fashion film. As you know, fashion film is a genre that is still on the rise, and as such it is still # You have chosen Berlin for the festival. What finding its own feet, which means that there do you think makes Berlin an ideal place for a are still no set guidelines as to what makes a fashion film festival? good fashion film. We are aiming to set those guidelines, and push filmmakers and fashion NICO Berlin is a city that in the past few designers to explore this new means of expres- years has become an international hub for all sion by working together and releasing aesthet- those creatives that may have felt unable to ically stunning films with engaging narratives. express themselves in their respective countries.

Our difference lies also in the fact that we don't Berlin is a city of opportunities, where something want to impose our vision onto others, but rath- like the Berlin fashion Film Festival is born out er understand how others interpret fashion cin- of sheer will. Berlin is a city that has become ema. Hence why we work with curators, some of internationally renowned for cinema as well as whom don't usually deal with fashion, like the fashion, breaking away from established conBerlin Film Society, as well as others who are in ventions that may have stopped something like touch with the new generations of filmmakers the Berlin fashion Film Festival from being born. and fashion designers, like the London College of Fashion.

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MORDEKAI by Eduardo Alcivar Gonzalez

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FRANK That's true. But someone born in Berlin (I'm such a local patriot :) ) I have to add that Berlin has always been a very open city to new and different ideas, cultures and ways of living. Something even Alfred Hitchcock experienced during his time in the 1920s, as well as artists such as David Bowie and Iggy Pop who lived here in the late 1970s.

# What are your future plans for The Berlin fashion Film Festival?

LISA We hope to make the festival travel we went to Fashion Weekend Skopje last October and in May we were screened at FASHIONCLASH Maastricht, maybe Poland in October let's see and then the rest of the world.

NICO Our aim is to establish BfFF as the point of reference within the fashion film world.

The place where fashion designers and filmmakers aim to have their films screened at, and the LISA Well, this is something that you will place where upcoming trends can be discovered only be able to truly understand by attending. and new sources of inspiration found.

The films definitely form the main part, though still confidential, but something that I can reveal FRANK It should also be an event where cliand that I look forward to is the exclusive live ents and agencies come to discover new talents presentation by Charlie Le Mindu and DJ set by to collaborate with.

DJ HELL (more info on the programme page of BfFF http://berlinfashionfilmfestival.net/programme-2013/) # Thanks a lot for the interview and see you at the festival!

FRANK At BfFF you can have a great time watching the best in Fashion Film, enjoying an exclusive live fashion show before ending up meeting and dancing with an eclectic range of people at a stunning party. # What awaits visitors to Berlin Fashion Film Festival? What are some of the highlights?

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ODDITORY by Monica Menez

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Colors photography by thomas voN aagh styling by aleXaNder huber @ fame-ageNcY.com make-up & hair by sigi kuNpfmĂœller @ fame-ageNcY.com models domiNik @ kultmodelageNcY.com diaNa @ fashioNmodel.it

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Dominik shirt Cruciani belt Ralph Lauren p a n t s H a cke t t shoes n.d.c. Made by Hand Diana dress Cruciani belt Jil Sander @ Stylebop.com s h o e s Ge o x

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Dominik jacket StonE iSlanD pants DSQuarED Diana dress DiMitri bracelet yulyaffairS shoes zara

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shirt Balmain p a n t s C o mp t o i r des C o t o n n i e r s shoes zara s u n g l a s s e s T r u ss a r d i

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Diana shirt Current Elliott p u l l o v e r C o mp t o i r des C o t o n n i e r s pants Rich&Royal sunglasses RayBan

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Dominik shirt CoS pants riCh&royal shoes rEDWing sunglasses PraDa Diana top CoMPtoir DES CotonniErS pants BoSS grEEn shoes givenchy @ Stylebop.com watch iWC

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hat vintage dress /w heart pattern Aigner lace dress La Fée Maraboutée belt Balmain

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SOMEWHERE IN BETWEEN photography by christoph kassette styling by chris geilhauseN hair & make-up by eleNa kĂ–hler @ artist group mierau & liga West model by maX Neu @ modelWerk assistant by moritz hagedorN -114-

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top zara p a n t s weekd a y necklace vintage

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b l o u s e   v i n t a g e / k l e i de r r e i c h necklace  reality studio

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vest aCnE pants hEnriK ViBSKoV shoes VintagE/KlEiDErrEiCh collar zara

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t o p i s a be l m a r a n t pants marni (for h&m) s h o e s o l i v i e r t h e y ske n s bow tie asos

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top Karl lagErfElD pants CoS shoes guESS necklace h&M

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dress maria lucas shoes buffalo necklace cos

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fraNkfurt airport

One of Salvatore Di Bella's favorites from the category ’Atomic’ Photo © PUBLIC RELATIONS PARTNERS / Frankfurt Airport Style Award 2013

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STYLE AWARD 2013

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interview with the jury-head Salvatore Di bella by tom Felber

# Salvatore Di Bella, you are head of the Frankfurt Airport Style Award jury. Tell us a little bit about the award.

The Style Award is a unique initiative to support the youngest students of fashion making and design. During the past six years, the competition has developed from a regional project to a respected national award and even crossed the border to Austria and Switzerland. Now I am very excited about the future options since the new sponsor Fraport AG has invited us to think internationally beyond the German speaking countries. # What's makes the difference between Frankfurt Airport Style Award and similar awards?

The difference is “creativity” – with regard to the concept, the agenda, the annually varying themes, innovation and authenticity as the cutting edges. The participants compete for unlimited creativity. With the ambition to support young fashion talents I was part of many competition juries of highest international level in the past. I am clearly not interested anymore in engaging in one of the numerous competitions with commercial purpose. When I accepted the invitation to become a jury member of the Style Award, my intention was to do it only once. Now I am still sitting in the jury chair, even as the jury president since a couple of years, because it is so inspiring and so much fun. And I am enjoying it a lot to team up with the organizer and the new title sponsor this year, Fraport AG, who is offering the stunning location at the Frankfurt Airport as well as the 6th invitation for tender under this year’s motto “INNOVISION”.

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# Why do you think is it so important to have awards like the Frankfurt Airport Style Award?

Fashion and Design have always been a mirror of the society. To attract ambitious, creative talents and to encourage them to perform their very best requires both spiritual/non-material and financial support. In case of the Frankfurt Airport Style Award a) the organizer is dedicated to work with very young talents, whether they are upcoming fashion designers, pretty, young models or dedicated make-up artists. b) it is of immanent importance to have a reliable and professional team in place to grant and guarantee a trustworthy and sustainable platform for young talents. c) the cooperation with universities and leading institutes for fashion and design has been essential for the success and the establishment of the Frankfurt Airport Style Award. # Looking at the 2013 award. You have 64 outfits in this year's final round. How satisfied are you about the quality?

The 2013 tender headlined INNOVISION offered a choice of three categories: Atomic, Utopia and NeoLuxury. Fact is that after a first independent jury evaluation of more than 160 applications, about 60 students from 22 fashion and design schools have been invited to present their unique creations. The runway show will present the 20 best creative fashion ideas in each category. The evolution from creative idea to concept from sketch to tailor made creation and finish is extremely exciting. To reach the final and one of the award winning placements in the spotlight of the Style Award should be

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an unforgettable and encouraging step at the early stage of a talent’s career. Again this year, the scope of talent is very impressive. The combined motivation and inspiration is like a trip around the world, between dreams and reality and an adventurous experiment of combining styles, clashing colors and materials. The photo gallery shot at the fitting in preparation of the Award Gala is already very impressive. However, exciting for me personally at this stage is how my favorites of the first jury round will perform at the end.

# On June 28th you have the big award gala at the Frankfurt Airport. What are your expectations for this event?

The Award Gala 2013 will reveal a lot of fresh and innovative creativity under the patronage of Fraport AG and the support of a number of longstanding partners invited by the event initiator and organizer PUBLIC RELATIONS PARTNERS in Kronberg. The runway show will bring together the best young talents, members and leaders of the international fashion and design industry, textile trade and institutions.

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# And what happens after the gala?

To acknowledge the fashion design talent, the title sponsor Fraport will donate space for the 1. Style Award Exhibition. All finalist models will get the opportunity to be presented in a showroom at Terminal 1 Arrival Hall during July.

This is a unique platform for the winners and all finalists of the Frankfurt Airport Style Award 2013. This will also create awareness for the further establishment of this fantastic initiative in search for creative talent and its plans for further international recognition.

# Last but not least, give us a preview on the 2014 award. What can we expect?

We do not want to compete with similar awards in Germany, neither on a local, regional or national level. The Style Award benchmarks for the future – and hopefully under the patronage of strong players like Fraport and Audi - are the traditional international platforms in Europe and…why not?… worldwide.

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One of Salvatore Di Bella's favorites from the category ’NeoLuxury’ Photo © PUBLIC RELATIONS PARTNERS / Frankfurt Airport Style Award 2013

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June 2013

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One of Salvatore Di Bella's favorites from the category ’Utopia’ Photo © PUBLIC RELATIONS PARTNERS / Frankfurt Airport Style Award 2013

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RIALTO

photography & production by lupo porscheN & JohaNNes kuczera styling by muamera pulic make-up & hair by muamera pulic model JohN kiNg @ mega model ageNcY daNe goodWiN @ kult model ageNcY styling assistant leviN geYer assistant tom braNdeNburger suits by herr voN edeN

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online

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gazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com

May 2013

# APRIL 2013

online

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May 2013

B ER LI N E 4 – 6 I 10 9 6 3 S S A TR S ER Com LU C K EN WA LD H I @ f9 5 S To R E. I 8 5 3 3 8 0 2 +4 9 ( 0 ) 3 0 4 R E. C o m W W W.f 9 5 S To RS m. o P EN IN G H o U AY 11 A .m . – 8 P. ID fR – AY D moN . m A .m . – 6 P. S AT U R D AY 11 -109-

Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com

coming out on july 19th 2013

# juLY 2013