Apparel Magazine | April 2024

MOOCHI Palette Two: Resurgence

Bring Back Trade Shows

Let's face it, digital platforms have dominated our interactions since the dreaded 2020. There's an irreplaceable magic to faceto-face encounters, especially in the vibrant world of fashion. While online connectivity has undoubtedly revolutionised how we engage with the global industry, it's essential to recognise the value of physical gatherings – in particular – expos.

These bustling events serve as epicenters of innovation, creativity, and collaboration. Where designers, buyers, and industry insiders converge to showcase and discover the latest trends, technologies, and talents. The tangible experience of seeing, touching, and feeling fabrics, garments, and accessories can't be replicated through a screen. There's a unique energy in the air as professionals from around the world come together to network and forge new partnerships.

While virtual platforms are convenient and have their own merits, nothing quite compares to the serendipitous encounters and meaningful connections in the bustling aisles of a trade show. Whether it's stumbling upon a groundbreaking innovation, striking up a conversation with a potential supplier, or simply immersing oneself in the sensory feast of textures and colours – the value of in-person networking is undeniable.

In an increasingly interconnected world, where borders blur and cultures intersect, fashion expos offer a window into the diverse tapestry of our global industry.

As we navigate the ever evolving landscape of our industry, let us not forget the enduring significance of these physical gatherings. While the digital realm offers convenience and accessibility, it is the human connections and shared experiences

EDITORIAL

MASSIVE SUCCESS FOR DUNEDIN ID

With over 30 free-to-attend events, Dunedin iD fashion has proven to be a massive success amongst fashion enthusiasts and has built a sense of community.

From time spent with designers to catwalk shows and exhibitions to high-end retail experiences, the events covered all aspects of the fashion industry. There was also a significant focus on sustainability during the talks, which featured New Zealand designers such as Tara Viggo, Tanya Carlson, Sara Munro, and Ethan Cruise.

“We’re delighted with the result. Some of our regular audience members missed the Railway Show and Emerging Designers Awards. Still, they were pleased with the informality and openness of this festival format,” said event manager Victoria Muir.

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CELEBRATION OF PERSONAL EXPRESSION

Acelebration of personal expression, New Zealand jewellery brand Meadowlark has created a men's range filled with a variety of staple pieces. From the understated simplicity of classic bands, chains and signets to the bold extravagance of oversized stars and pearls.

The collection is a treasure trove of options, ranging from the understated elegance of classic bands to the audacious grandeur of oversized stars and pearls, ensuring something for everyone.

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KATE SYLVESTER ANNOUNCES CLOSURE

Auckland-based fashion label Kate Sylvester has announced the closure of the business after 31 years. Sylvester, designer of the eponymous label, said they wanted to go out the way they came in – loving what they do.

They will sell their final collection for Summer 2024 and plan to close completely by mid 2025.

"Since the day we opened the doors on that first store in Kitchener Street we have worked incredibly hard for three decades. And now we need to move on to a new chapter in our lives."

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SAPRO-TECH ANNOUNCES FIRST COMMERCIAL PARTNERSHIPS

Sapro-Tech, a creator of next generation materials made from mycelium (fungi), has achieved a commercial milestone through its partnerships with four of New Zealand’s leading fashion companies – SABEN, taylor, Velvet Heartbeat, and YY NATION.

Earlier this year, Sapro-Tech launched an innovative customer initiative. Their ‘pioneering partners programme’ aims to form strategic partnerships with leading fashion, interior, and automotive organisations.

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ALLBIRDS FACES SETBACK

Environmentally sustainable brand Allbirds faces a potentially significant setback, which could have a detrimental impact on investors, after being threatened with delisting from the US Nasdaq stock market.

The warning came after the apparel company's share price fell below the minimum bid price of USD $1 per share for over 30 consecutive days.

As this is one of Nasdaq's listing rules, Allbirds was sent an official warning notice.

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TRENDS, SUSTAINABILITY, AND INNOVATION IN HONG KONG

Fashion InStyle: Unleashing a Stylish Showcase of Trends, Sustainability, and Innovation in Hong Kong

Fashion InStyle, formerly known as Hong Kong Fashion Week, is Asia’s leading fashion event to discover the latest fashion trends along the entire fashion supply chains including textiles, fashion technologies, sustainability practices and solutions, suppliers and partners of all season’s clothing and accessories. The 2nd edition of Fashion InStyle is set to be held from 20 to 23 April 2024 to maximise the synergy in the global sourcing season. It will bring together hundreds of exhibitors from the clothing and fashion industry and take place concurrently with Home InStyle at the Hong Kong Convention and

Exhibition Centre, creating a dynamic sourcing festival for lifestyle products.

In 2023, these two fairs, alongside five concurrent HKTDC events—Hong Kong Gifts & Premium Fair, Hong Kong International Home Textiles and Furnishings Fair, Hong Kong International Printing & Packaging Fair, Hong Kong International Licensing Show and Asian Licensing Conference—successfully attracted close to 56,000 buyers from over 130 countries and regions.

Fashion InStyle is designed into themed zones, including the new Certification & Trade Services Zone, which promotes services related to meeting standards for garments. The Fashion Tech Zone will showcase the latest technologies for efficiently manufacturing high-quality garments with special features. The Athleisure Zone will feature collections of fashion pieces that seamlessly

blend comfort, functionality, and style, offering a versatile and dynamic wardrobe suitable for both active pursuits and casual outings. Other zones will exhibit a wide range of new season garments, international designer collections, fashion accessories, fabrics, and more. The participation of exhibitors from ASEAN countries, coupled with a strong emphasis on sustainability, will greatly enrich the vibrancy of the fair.

In addition to product showcases across the themed zones, the event will feature fashion parades and presentations that will captivate global buyers with the latest designs and brand features. An exciting lineup of seminars on fashion trends, technology, and sustainability, along with networking receptions, will keep buyers abreast of market intelligence and provide opportunities for industry professionals to explore business prospects.

NIKE'S ATHLETE IMAGINED REVOLUTION

As the innovation cycle begins, Nike has launched various products with digital technological advancements to improve usage, especially for athletes.

Nike's A.I.R. — Athlete Imagined Revolution, a co-creation project between elite athletes and Nike designers, is a testament to the brand's commitment to inclusivity and innovation.

“There are no limits to what we can create with Nike Air. We’re exploring new technologies like AI engines and rapid prototyping to continue pushing the boundaries,” said John Hoke, Nike’s Chief Innovation Officer.

“This means that you, our valued audience, can look forward to Nike products created with unprecedented fidelity, velocity, and impact.”

The Nike Pegasus Premium running shoe features Nike’s first sculpted, visible Air Zoom unit, the brand’s most significant Air innovation since the launch of the Nike Air VaporMax.

It contours to the foot's natural form, giving runners an entirely new sensation, and the ZoomX and ReactX foam cushioning system, creates more energy returns for everyday runners.

“We’re thrilled to celebrate another summer of sport with our incredible athletes and the product innovations

that will help propel them to achieve their dreams. What you’ll see this year on the pitch, court, road, or track signals a new, exciting multi-year innovation cycle for us,” said Heidi O’Neill, President of consumer, Product, and Brand at Nike, Inc.

“And this summer is just a hint of the game-changing innovations coming across our entire portfolio that will take us into new markets and market share opportunities.”

Nike’s world-class athletes, including Dina Asher-Smith, Shelly-Ann FraserPryce, Eliud Kipchoge, and Sha’Carri Richardson, have unveiled the brand’s 2024 federation kits.

They drew inspiration from 4D motion-capture data and each country and sport's unique identities and diverse communities.

Using Nike Sport Research Lab data to optimise Air, Nike has created footwear that helps all athletes break barriers. The Nike Blueprint Pack is another collection featuring Nike’s Air innovation in blue, white, and orange that pays homage to Nike’s co-founder, Bill Bowerman.

VANS COLLAB WITH SKATEBOARD LEGEND

Vans have collaborated with skateboarding legend Anthony Van Engelen for the third time, creating a shoe collection that is the pinnacle of self-expression.

Van Engelen has always pushed the boundaries of what’s possible, from skateboarding to personal style and now into skate footwear.

The AVE 2.0 is a cutting-edge skate shoe that talks the talk and walks the walk. Designed with an unparalleled knit upper made of technical textiles, the AXE 2.0 is durable and fashionable.

“Twenty years ago, skate shoes just gave the appearance of tech,” said Van Engelen of his new signature model.

“Now, we’re the future, where that technical design extends to the shoe’s performance.”

With an almost three-decade career in the skating industry, Van Engelen

has remained at the forefront of skate culture due to his fearless skating style and willingness to push boundaries.

This same mindset has been extended into his footwear, with the AVE 2.0 designed to handle the brunt force of skating whilst remaining comfortable and stylish.

The shoe has been designed with extra stretch at the top of the foot and the collar, making it flexible. The open knit on the midfoot increases breathability, while the dense knit towards the heel aids with structure and resistance.

In combination with this, the knit material is enhanced with RabidWeld, a stitchless construction that improves fit and feel with a no-sew welded upper.

“I’ve found knit material to be super comfortable, lightweight and breathable,” expressed Van Engelen.

“Combined with suede in the more high-use parts of the shoe, it makes for a great mixture of design and performance.

Other key design features of AVE 2.0 include suede vamps, bottom eye stays, and toe boxes for enhanced flick. These details, plus an external TPU heel cage, have created a shoe that can withstand even the most gruelling sessions.

This collaboration marks the third shoe Van Engelen and Vans designed over ten years, with each design exploring new skate shoe innovative technology.

DEUCE SUPPORTS A GOOD CAUSE

The new Deuce Sneaker campaign has two things in mind: staying fashionable while supporting its community. Deuce supporting a good cause is not a new thing, with its longterm affiliation with the Young Hearts Project.

The Deuce Autumn/Winter 2024 collection aptly titled ‘New Movement’ supports the Young Hearts Project, a charitable organisation that empowers people to deal with life's challenges.

Founded in 2014 by Merchant 1948’s director Shane Anselmi, the Young Hearts Project is a beacon of hope, recognising the need to provide opportunities for young people to develop skills and resilience.

Deuce has continued to support this cause, striving to change the lives of young people in New Zealand.

Their new collection, focused on quality basics and classic silhouettes, donates $2 from every full-priced pair to the Young Hearts Project charity.

The funds will enable the charity's three partners, Youthline, the Graeme Dingle Foundation, and Great Potentials, to deliver programmes focused on mentoring, emotional support, and value-based learning to young people who need it.

As part of the campaign, Deuce sat down with Jessica from Great Potentials, Glen from YouthLine, and Brittney from The Graeme Dingle Foundation.

Through their recounts, the identified funds generated by Deuce will be used to provide free services such as Youthline's 24/7 helpline service, development programmes, counselling and guidance through life for young people in New Zealand.

START-UP COMPETITION RETURNING

The Innovation Village start-up competition is returning, calling for participants for the prestigious June 2024 event.

In a journey to promote technological innovation within the retail sector, Expo Riva Schuh and Gardabags are holding their annual competition to inspire innovators.

Innovation Village Retail, a staunch advocate of innovation and new enterprises, is committed to inspiring those with groundbreaking ideas in the footwear, accessories, and leather goods sector. It offers a supportive platform for startups to thrive and make a significant impact.

They encourage startups to get involved and present their projects to industry experts and potential buyers. It provides a dedicated space for like-

minded individuals to share ideas and grow as potential entrepreneurs.

Through Innovation Village, the show offers participating startup projects opportunities to forge relationships and gain knowledge of the footwear sector. It also enables projects to find their expression and application with potential partners and buyers.

The startup that wins the competition will earn the esteemed privilege of participating in the next edition of the show as an exhibitor, a testament to its innovation and potential.

The competition will be held in the Riva del Garda exhibition centre for three days in mid-June.

It provides a dedicated space for like-minded individuals to share ideas and grow as potential entrepreneurs.

GOOD HAIR DAYS START WITH COLOUR

Bright things are in the future for ghd with the fan-favourite hair tool brand's Colour Crush collection. Ghd believes that good hair days start with colour, designing this new collection to reignite the power of being bold and infuse your life with a burst of colour.

The collection consists of five iconic tools redesigned in four eye-catching colourways. Each tool will come with a complimentary heat-resistant case that matches the bright hues of the hair tools.

All four colours stand out in your

MECCA TAKES OVER

Beauty industry mogul Mecca has teased its new location set to open in Dunedin.

A spokesperson for the chain has confirmed that the store will be opened in the second half of the year, making shopping more convenient for beauty lovers.

The Australian-born makeup store has built up a strong customer base in New Zealand, with over 100 stores combined across Australia and New Zealand.

Mecca stores stock a range of luxury skincare and cosmetic brands and offer their own in-house brand. Through promotions such as Beauty Loop, a member reward program, they have maintained a loyal customer base and stood out against competitors.

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bathroom, from the rich Radiant Red, the moody Elemental Blue, the bright Apricot Crush and futuristic Cyber Lime.

This ghd collection also includes the first-ever limited edition of the 2-in-1 duet hot air styler, which boasts its heat-damaged-free benefits.

These tools can give a bombshell blowout, transform hair from wet to styled, cut half the styling time back for long and thick hair, and create a sleeker and healthier result. They have proven the fact that, yes, good hair days do start with colour.

NEW FACE OF ESTÉE LAUDER

Makeup giant Estée Lauder has officially signed a Korean superstar as an official new face brand ambassador.

Known by the stage name IU, the singer and actress is one of the most beloved artists in Korea and Asia. This marks Estée Lauder’s first Korean Global Ambassador, and IU is set to be featured in campaigns for the brand’s hero franchises, Advanced Night Repair and Double Wear.

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WELLINGTON HOUSES BRITISH SKINCARE BRAND

OSKIA London has finally arrived in New Zealand, with the British skincare brand finding a home in Iris Store + Studio.

Founded by Georgie Cleeve in 2009, OSKIA's origins differ from the typical as it began with a supplement used for horses’ knees.

Following a skiing accident that led to four operations, Cleeve faced a future of never skiing or running again until her father suggested that she try MSM, a naturally occurring source of organic sulphur.

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LE BEAU & LA BELLE PARADISE GARDEN

Surrender to temptation as Jean Paul Gaultier has invited everyone to enter a mesmerising Paradise Garden and discover the most beautiful fragrances. Following last year's success, La Belle Fleur Terrible is back, and Jean Paul Gaultier has paired it with a stunning new addition, the sensual Le Beau.

The campaign features Tess McMillan and Jonas Barros, an irresistible couple who are proud symbols of free-spirited youth liberated from all inhibitions.

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TOM FORD BEAUTY APPOINTED NEW SVP

TOM FORD BEAUTY have appointed a new senior vice president (SVP) to strengthen its brand identity.

Dexter King, a TOM FORD BEAUTY veteran, stepped into the role this month after nine years with the company.

One of his most significant accomplishments thus far is his work alongside president and CEO Guillaume Jesel to elevate TOM FORD fragrances to the luxury tier. This accelerated channel strategies and achieved exceptional growth and share gains across key markets.

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RISING DEMAND FOR WATERLESS COSMETICS

Waterless cosmetics have gained popularity globally, especially in the Asia-Pacific (APAC) region, after originating as a trend in South Korea. According to GlobalData, the growing eco-consciousness among consumers will lead to a further increase in demand for waterless cosmetics in the APAC region.

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THE FUNCTIONAL FRAGRANCES TREND

The importance of positive mental health practices has drastically increased over the last decade, inspiring a surplus of beauty and self-care products. Following this mental health awareness, Indonesia has received a surplus of interest in the functional fragrances trend.

Functional fragrances are marketed for their moodenhancing and wellness properties, targeting the growing concern about rising stress levels.

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SHEER

luck

The impact. The drama. Nothing is more of a showstopper than a bit of sheer fabric. Conceal, reveal, transcend into the wonderful world of sheer. Whether it’s wool, chiffon or tulle, having a sheer piece, layered or as a standalone, adds yet another dimension to a look.

Y/Project’s Fall collection followed an unspoken rule of symmetrical draping. Many pieces had effortlessly draping that floated down like air like this look in a colour like Mara 7-130. The collection showcased clean silhouettes, a lot of line work and endless texture.

Yves Saint Laurent exploded out the gate with a large collection aptly titled Meet Mrs Cellophane. A collection made almost entirely of silk hosiery in hues like Mara 6-369. Creative director Anthony Vaccarello said it was a nightmare because of the textile’s potential to snag and ladder. “I wanted to do something very fragile.” While the range was incredibly impactful and memorable, the range is not very commercially viable. “Don’t ask me about how we might produce it,” he said. “I think my job is to propose something different that is not necessarily realistic or necessary.”

Chanel delivered a Fall collection that was more or less entirely expected of

them. Looking more like an archival runway than a new range. What did stand out for me was this tulle look in a hue like Mara 17-1274. The many layers of sheer tulle effortlessly drop to the floor, creating more of a soft grunge aesthetic.

Sheer knitwear has been popular for many decades, and I don’t expect it to go anywhere anytime soon. This stunning asymmetrical piece from Didu in a colour like Mara 14-286 is a great example of sheer knits done well.

Fall for Rokh meant juxtaposing heavy textiles with light sheer prints. Designer Rok Hwang has a passion for finding perfection among imperfections. This Fall 2024 collection showcased a modern deconstructed take on wardrobe staples with historical references scattered throughout pointing towards High Renaissance and Romanticism eras like this look in a colour like Mara 7-174.

Opened by Noah Cyrus, Avellano’s Fall Ready-to-Wear collection was a battle of hosiery sheer textiles and latex that flowed like satin. This dramatic look in a hue similar to Mara 13-340 was formed from latex that Avellano had thinned down to a satinesque material. The French fashion house is a latex specialist.

MOOCHI PALETTE TWO: RESURGENCE

Titled Palette Two: Resurgence, the moochi collection was designed as an ode to the strength of a reinvigorated essence. The line features elevated silhouettes made to endure the test of time.

Toying with the duality between simplicity and detailed design, resurgence creates a focus on wardrobe staples, textural intrigue and immaculate tailoring.

The collection features classic pieces made from luxurious fibres and calming hues that evoke a sense of ease and tranquillity.

From chunky knits to silk maxi skirts, Resurgence balances the bitter cold of winter while still adding shape and style. Khaki, ecru and bay leaf are prominent colours within the collection, adding small pops of brightness while remaining subdued.

The Burn Shirt and Skirt evolve the femininity of lace, introducing flocked textures that exude luxury and warmth. The pleated Carnival Skirt in cream becomes fluid with each stride, transforming and displaying the meticulously crafted pleats.

Bold tailoring is shown through several silhouettes, reaffirming the strength of Resurgence. The Manner Blazer and the Banner Pant in charcoal pinstripe present a versatile, suiting ensemble to mix and match throughout the seasons.

The Collar Coat in grey marle is perfect for layering and features an elevated shawl collar, belt, and cocoon-shaped sleeves.

Utility inspired several styles of Six

and Seven, with a palette of cactus green, putty grey, indigo markle and denim being used to create pieces perfect for the relaxed, modern muse.

Function meets elevation on the Enact Coat, a puffed nylon coat with an exaggerated silhouette.

Moochi has also upheld the structural integrity of its tracksuits through the Contrast Sweat and Contrast Pant Set. These pieces once again use balloon sleeves to make a moochi’s signature cocoon silhouette.

To top off this series of innovative designs, the Grid Boot in black leather is perfect for a grunge touch to any outfit with its custom sole base.

The Knife Boot is a more feminine alternative, with a kitten heel and pointed toe injecting a vivacity to modern outfitting.

The collection features classic pieces made from luxurious fibres and calming hues that evoke a sense of ease and tranquility.

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SET AND ADJUST RETAIL PRICING STRATEGIES AND PROMOTIONS LIKE A PRO

FASHION COMPANIES ARE EXPECTED TO DOUBLE TECH INVESTMENTS BY 2030 – WILL YOU?

What are your priorities for spending your tech budget? Working in retail, your days are crazy, and with the influx of data and insights from heightened digitalization, they are only getting busier.

Navigating the complex and dynamic world of retail and remaining competitive requires retailers to make informed decisions quickly. In the previous blog, we talked about the importance of quickly identifying and prioritizing opportunities for assortment planning. This process is also crucial when developing pricing and promotion strategies.

If things like “first price, right price,” personalized promotions, and optimized full-price sell through are important to you, a retail intelligence tool should be on your wish list.

According to McKinsey, by 2030, fashion companies are expected to double investment in technology to create a competitive edge. They explain:

“Based on our research, we estimate that applying integrated digital solutions to merchandising could lead to up to 50 percent faster time to market, an eight percent rise in full-price sell through, and a 20 percent decline in manufacturing costs. It could support in-season pricing and promotions strategy, as well as feed data-driven range planning and optimization.”

A RETAILER’S CHALLENGE

Some of the key challenges retailers face when planning or adjusting prices and promotions include:

First price and price change precision:

Making sure the initial price is right to maximize revenue, and having the agility to execute more surgical pricing to remain relevant

Market blindspots:

Missing out on opportunities, whether that is increasing/decreasing prices or running an effective promotion, due to a lack of information about what’s happening in the market

Customer profitability:

Understanding which of your customers are most profitable – some buy your product at full price and never make returns, while others are more problematic

Personalized customer experiences:

Creating personalized campaigns and promotions leading to higher customer satisfaction and, ultimately, higher profit

While these areas are crucial in creating effective pricing and promotional strategies, with overwhelming volumes of data and manual processes, it can be difficult to identify and prioritize the most lucrative opportunities.

HOW CAN TECHNOLOGY TRANSFORM YOUR DAY-TO-DAY?

By implementing a retail intelligence tool into your business, you gain a connected view of your company, competitor, and third-party pricing and promotional data. This data is combined in a single source of truth that presents complicated metrics as easy-tounderstand insights, so you quickly get answers to the most pressing questions and can make decisions accordingly.

Pre-Season Planning

1. Promotion & Campaign Planning

Identify gaps from a promotional and campaign standpoint based on competitor activity. Retail technology gives you real-time and historical visibility into promotional activities, marketing messaging, and product positioning across your own as well as your competitors’ email communications and direct sites. You can visualize major promotional periods throughout the year and understand how certain campaigns or promotions performed to inform your strategy.

2. Pricing Optimization

Get complete visibility into retail pricing strategies across multiple markets to determine how you stack up against competitor prices. By understanding how the competition is setting price points and pricing architectures, you can identify white space when planning your pricing strategy. When you have the ability to find pricing opportunities quickly, you can stand out from the competition and improve your margins.

In-Season Trading

1. Promotion Management

Be agile and respond quickly and proportionally to competitor promotional activity, such as

new messaging or profit-driving opportunities as they arise. This technology allows you to identify opportunities quickly so you can ensure your promotions are in line with the competition while being profitable, and that they align with market demand and resonate with your customers.

2. Pricing Adjustments

See what price points you might be missing in the market and quickly understand where you can adjust to become more profitable. Understanding the market through contextualized insights allows you to shift pricing so you are not under or over-priced. By using this AI-driven technology, you can make these adjustments while they matter most.

HOW WOOLWORTHS LEVERAGES RETAIL TECHNOLOGY TO OPTIMIZE PRICING

One success story in terms of exposing and prioritizing pricing opportunities with retail intelligence is Woolworths. The South African retailer used EDITED to identify a winning opportunity in its homeware category.

“We were analyzing a category in our homeware department, and for one product, we discovered we could add several options in a higher price bracket, based on where the rest of the market was sitting,” explained Lilize Diener, Senior Buyer at Woolworths.

This decision represented a significant revenue increase opportunity and meant the business was able to shift pricing on 29% of this category’s assortment to raise prices by 110% and drive margin improvement.

CONCLUSION

Whether it’s pre-season planning to identify gaps and optimize pricing or in-season trading to respond to competitor promotional activity, leveraging technology-driven insights empowers retailers to stay agile and ahead of the curve in the dynamic world of retail.

SHINING A LIGHT: THE CRUCIAL ROLE OF SUPPLY CHAIN TRANSPARENCY IN FASHION

The fashion industry has been built and operates in an opaque manner, spanning continents and cultures. However, within this intricate web lies the core of your business – the suppliers who provide the raw materials, labour, and expertise essential to bring your designs to life.

Your products are core to the success of your business, but how much do you know about where and who is making your brand’s products? Can you be sure that there are no human rights violations, or unlawful contract labour going on in the making of your products? As we commemorate the anniversary of the Rana Plaza collapse in Bangladesh this month, it serves as a reminder of the critical importance of transparency and human rights due diligence in safeguarding our most vital asset – our supply chain.

Supply chain transparency is the core of ethical and sustainable business practices. In an era where consumers

are increasingly conscious of the social and environmental impacts of their purchasing decisions, transparency is no longer a luxury – it's a necessity. By knowing your suppliers, you can ensure that your products are manufactured under fair labour conditions, with respect for workers' rights and environmental sustainability.

Recently Armani was put into receivership by an Italian court due to the illegal subcontracting to Chinese suppliers who were paid below minimum wage, and working excessive hours. This happened because of outsourcing or subcontracting to cheaper, unregulated suppliers who were working for the Armani brand.

When production is outsourced to subcontractors, businesses often have limited visibility and oversight, making it challenging to ensure compliance with ethical and environmental standards.

The fashion industry is rife with scandals and controversies surrounding unethical practices, and what now happens overseas in factories can be reported on immediately due to the growth and access of social media. And if you don’t know who is making your products, you can be caught in the crossfire by being linked to unlawful, or unethical behaviour.

The journey to gain transparency of your supply chain can be daunting, but is not impossible. I always urge our clients to start with mapping your most popular product, and then grow from there. Every supply chain will look different, so it’s important to start with the product that is most important to your business before tackling the rest. Start a spreadsheet, or a tracking sheet, and put together some key questions you would like to know of your suppliers.

Supply chains are typically built in tiers, or layers, and in the apparel supply chain they are usually consolidated into four tiers. These tiers

are very top level, but will give you a place to start:

• Tier One – Garment manufacturer

• Tier Two – Fabric weaver/knitter

• Tier Three – Yarn maker

• Tier Four – Raw material producer/ farm

It will also be important to know who is dyeing and printing your fabrics and garments – these often sit off to the side of tier two and three suppliers. Suppliers who deal with dyes and pigments have been linked to unsafe working conditions and health conditions, especially if they are not given adequate personal protective equipment or have no safety protocols on the safe handling of toxic chemicals.

There are now several technology platforms that can help you with mapping your supply chain. The platforms use data inputs from your suppliers to help you gain transparency over the different tiers, and help you to track materials, manage certifications, and develop relationships through your supply chain. Platforms such as Open Supply Hub and Sourcemap are great for identifying high risk regions and

allow you to take action quickly and accurately, all while mapping your products on virtual maps, allowing ease of communications with customers and stakeholders.

Knowing your suppliers not only helps to mitigate risk, but also helps to foster strategic partnerships built on trust and mutual respect. By forging strong relationships with your suppliers, you can leverage their expertise and capabilities to drive innovation, efficiency, and quality throughout your supply chain. If you need support or help on your supply chain transparency journey, please get in touch and our team of experts can help you.

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The apparel business. Where it’s easy to get caught with your pants down.

The apparel business. Where it’s easy to get caught with your pants down.

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Contact: Bruce Moore

T: +64 274 341 433

E: bruce@bma.co.nz

www.propress.co.nz

Samples cut and made with quality and flare

phone 021 425 149 | email helenh@hsr.co.nz

S i m p l y t u r n i n g y o u r design i nt o reality w i t h t h e p e r f e c t d u o .

276 Manukau Road, Epsom, Auckland, New Zealand

Contact: Rachel Beechey

T: +64 9 520 5290

E: rachel@roses.co.nz www.roses.co.nz

New Zealand’s number one supplier of industrial sewing, embroidery, steam & curtain automated machinery. LEADING BRANDS: Juki, Tajima, Brother, Pegasus, Jiffy, Eisenkolb, Typical, Stirovap, Siruba

31a Elliot Street, Papakura, Auckland, New Zealand

Contact: Shannon Gribble T: +64 9 299 6801

E: shannong@stirlingcutting.co.nz www.stirlingcutting.co.nz

61a Randolph Street, Eden Terrace, Auckland, New Zealand

Contact: Mandy Tomlinson PH: 64 27 227 0157 E: mandy@taylorboutique.co.nz

VITAG RETAIL TECHNOLOGIES

Unit i, 29 Sir William Avenue, East Tamaki Auckland, New Zealand

Contact: Doug Todd T: 0800 736 352 E: sales@vitag.co.nz www.vitag.co.nz