Apparel Magazine | August 2024

Page 1


20 MINUTES WITH Bared Footwear

A Valuable Opportunity for Kiwis

As the director of the Fashion Council of New Zealand I'm excited to announce the continued collaboration with the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) at this year's CENTRESTAGE, taking place from September 4 to 7 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

This annual fashion event, organised by HKTDC and sponsored by the Cultural and Creative Industries Development Agency (CCIDA), promises a vibrant showcase of style. The grand opening, CENTRESTAGE ELITES, will feature a spectacular fashion show on September 3 at the Hong Kong Palace Museum, spotlighting renowned designer Robert Wun. This event will also be live-streamed across various online platforms. In response to current market trends, new thematic zones for circular and athleisure fashion have been introduced.

“As the government continues to champion Hong Kong's mega events economy, this year's CENTRESTAGE will open its doors to both industry professionals and the public for four consecutive days," said Sophia Chong, Deputy Executive Director of HKTDC.

"We are proud to showcase a recordbreaking 250 brands from 17 countries and regions, including internationally renowned and iconic labels.”

Representing New Zealand, I will accompany a cohort of five New Zealand fashion retailers and distributors as VIP guests of HKTDC. This event will provide a valuable opportunity to explore new upcoming designers from across the globe, gain inspiration, and expand networking possibilities to drive business success.

PUBLISHER

GENERAL MANAGER

EDITOR

MARKETING MANAGER

CONTENT MANAGERS

EDITORIAL ASSOCIATES

GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM

Tania Walters

Kieran Mitchell

Caitlan Mitchell

Sarah Mitchell

Caroline Boe, Findlay Murray

Sam Francks, Jenelle Sequeira

Raymund Sarmiento, Raymund Santos

OVARIES. TALK ABOUT THEM. COLLECTION

University of New South Wales and CAMILLA AND MARC have announced a medical breakthrough through the work of the ‘Ovaries. Talk About Them.’ initiative.

This has been the first global development of a unique 3-target signature using DNA biomarkers that detect all types of early-stage ovarian cancer. This achievement will lead to getting an early-detection blood test for clinical trials by 2026.

Dr Kristina Warton, UNSW GCRG head researcher, said that an early detection test has the scope to improve outcomes and save lives for people with ovarian cancer all over the world.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

2025 COLOUR FORECAST BY

DULUX

Dulux has unveiled its annual Colour Forecast for 2025. This year’s Dulux Colour Forecast showed that uplifting and soothing colours in homes and commercial spaces have been a response to recent periods of uncertainty.

Distilled into three distinct palettes, Still, Recollect, and Emerge demonstrated how colours with warm, brown undertones have evoked a sense of nurture and positivity. In 2025, Dulux has predicted that rich burgundies and wine hues will become more prominent in residential interior design, alongside an increased use of green, including olive, sage, and vibrant yellow-green.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

CENTRESTAGE RETURNS THIS SEPTEMBER

CENTRESTAGE, the annual fashion extravaganza organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) and sponsored by the Cultural and Creative Industries Development Agency (CCIDA) returns this September. The event will showcase a rich tapestry of style from the 4th to the 7th of September at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre through various fashion shows, parades and seminars led by industry heavyweights. Attendees can gain insights into industry trends and cutting-edge designs and explore business opportunities. The exhibition will also be open to industry buyers and the public for retail sale for all four days of the fair.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

BFC HONOURS TYLER MITCHELL

The British Fashion Council (BFC) announced that Tyler Mitchell, the acclaimed artist, photographer, and filmmaker, will receive the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator at The Fashion Awards 2024 by Pandora (TFA) this December at Royal Albert Hall, London.

TFA, the primary fundraiser for the BFC Foundation, has celebrated the role of fashion at the intersection of culture and entertainment. It has spotlighted talent in fashion through the lens of purpose, excellence, and creativity.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

IKEA REVEALS NZ HOME INSIGHTS

After visiting 500 homes, IKEA released the first-ever New Zealand edition of the IKEA Life at Home Report.

Ahead of its arrival in late 2025, IKEA undertook extensive research to understand the everyday lives of New Zealanders before any products hit the shelves.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

Make life easier with one integrated software solution to help you manage all the moving parts of your retail business. Purpose-built for the fashion industry, Apparel helps you monitor, manage and find efficiencies to help you grow.

MINUTES WITH

While working as a podiatrist, Anna Baird saw a gap in the market for stylish, comfortable shoes that were also good for your feet. Baird said she struggled to recommend shoes for her patients that ticked all the boxes. Sixteen years later, Baird feels she has truly filled that gap.

“We have built an incredible customer base of women and men who love our brand for the quality, comfort and outstanding customer service that we provide,” Baird said. “Thanks to our wide range of styles and extended sizing, our customer profile is incredibly diverse.”

Bared Footwear is designed for anyone who wants a great looking pair of shoes, and who knows that life is too short to be limited by painful shoes.

When Baird first launched the brand, their primary focus was on creating shoes that not only looked great but also offered comfort and support. “This mission continues to drive us today and remains our key point of difference.”

Overtime, I can honestly say that we’ve gained many more points of difference – some have been with us since the beginning, and others are new and still evolving. There are two points of difference that come to mind for me that really set us apart.

The first is our next-level customer service. We employ friendly, passionate, and genuine people dedicated to ensuring our customers are delighted. Week after week, the reviews pour in from customers who appreciate the lengths our team go to find them right shoe. When we say, "we will never leave you in a shoe that you don’t love," we mean it.

Another constantly evolving point of difference for us is our mission to create better shoes for our planet. We’re working with incredible partners from around the world to source and create environmentally conscious components to craft our shoes. In 2024, we began the rollout of PLIANT™ outsoles across our women’s wear range – a 100% biobased and completely plastic free rubber outsole by Natural Fibre Welding. We understand that we are a part of one of the world’s most polluting industries and we are committed to improving every aspect of our business practices and product to lessen the impact that we have on the planet.

FOOTWEAR FOR EXTENDED SIZES

Oya, a new luxury footwear brand, has addressed a gap in the market for women seeking beautiful footwear outside the traditional size range.

It has produced women’s shoes exclusively for sizes EU 42 to 46 (NZ/AU 10 to 14), with care and attention to essential features such as heel height and materials.

Founder Nicola Garvey created these designs since she has been wearing size 45 shoes and deeply understood her customers' needs. While developing the brand, she spoke to many women about the struggles of finding shoes in larger sizes.

“With most footwear brands not catering to my size, I know how challenging it can be to find the perfect pair of shoes,” said Garvey.

“If your shoes aren’t right, your outfit doesn’t feel complete and can cause an unnecessary distraction in your day. I created Oya to empower others through size-inclusive, elegant fashion.”

Oya aims to return the fun to shoe shopping with a collection featuring chic, classic silhouettes and bright pops of colour.

To bring these designs to life, Garvey worked with a talented team in Italy’s famous shoe-making region, Marche, where Oya shoes have been handcrafted by artisans in a familyowned factory drawing on the region’s tradition and craftsmanship.

Oya’s launch collection included the elegant Layla slide in coco or sailor blue nappa leather, the sleek Ramona pointed-toe flat in ivy green suede or black nappa, and the Culford pump, an everyday heel with an adventurous charm in emerald, blush, or black nappa.

The collection is available online with free shipping for customers in Australia and New Zealand.

LOUISE ANSELMI HEAD OF DESIGN MERCHANT 1948

Stepping into Spring/Summer 2024, the new collection from Merchant 1948, aptly titled Club Merchant 1948, extended trends and styles that emerged over the last 12 months.

Louise Anselmi, Head of Design, said the Merchant customer had become more fashionforward and was excited to see what came next.

This new collection was built on neutrals, and more natural textures and weaves were added to embody the joy of summer, making it fun and wearable while also offering a new summer styling solution.

Key themes included lower heels, kitten and block, slingbacks, ballet flats and more barely-there sandals for the fashion-forward customer. It also highlighted textured materials such as weaves, raffias, and espadrille wraps.

“The move to more natural materials and seventies-inspired shapes is a logical direction for the Merchant customer, combining versatility and practicality while still making a statement,” said Anselmi.

“The woven styles are each handknotted to create individual uppers; these are then hand-lasted. Each is unique and will vary slightly, but the aim was to have the rights and lefts of the styles to closely match.”

Last summer, Merchant 1948 debuted a wedding and event edit, which was so successful that they added more styles to the range. They have also been working on padding and comfort for each style, using memory foam padding in most styles.

Although the Merchant audience has been wide and varied, the brand has considered its consumers to be youthful

thinkers who want to be inspired and see the brand as the trusted voice of footwear fashion authority.

Every season has provided an opportunity to build on the successes of previous seasons while also trying new things and Merchant 1948 has been able to test new styles in small quantities to discover customer demand before widely adopting a look.

Anselmi said that customers often wanted the reassurance of seeing a trend before they were confident about jumping into it.

“The example of kitten heels and slingbacks has shown a steady growth of customers buying into this trend, allowing us to experiment more and offer more excitement to our customers.”

As fashion progresses from a global recession and the associated challenges for fashion retailers, customers want fashion detailing incorporated into more wearable, versatile, and comfortable styles.

“Heels are lower, leather choices are more important, and flexibility and padding are key.”

The brand has also been increasing its use of “Leather Working Group” leathers and moving to more sustainable factory practices. It has also entered the “Ethical Fashion” survey for the second time.

“While the unique challenges of sustaining business in a recession have impacted our ability to do more in this area, we are proud to have made more small improvements.”

WOODCHUCKSATO

Woodchucksato is more than just a footwear brand; it’s a story of passion, heritage, and innovation.

Founded by Sato, the brand was born from a deep reverence for the cultural significance of traditional Japanese tabi shoes. “We wanted to bring the elegance and functionality of tabi to a broader audience, merging the timeless craftsmanship with contemporary style,” Sato explained.

Every pair of tabi at Woodchucksato is a testament to this mission. Crafted by skilled artisans, each shoe embodies a harmonious blend of traditional techniques and modern innovations. “Our goal has always been to honour the craftsmanship that has been passed down through generations while integrating modern technology to enhance fit, comfort, and durability,” Sato said. The result is footwear that

not only looks beautiful but also stands the test of time.

Sustainability and ethical production are at the core of Woodchucksato’s philosophy. The brand carefully sources materials from suppliers who adhere to sustainable forestry practices and employs eco-friendly adhesives and finishes. “It’s important to us that we’re not just making shoes, but that we’re making a positive impact,” Sato noted. This commitment extends to the people behind the product, ensuring fair labour practices and supporting the communities involved in the supply chain.

Innovation is a key part of the Woodchucksato identity. The tabi shoes feature unique design elements, such as a hybrid sole that combines the grip and durability of rubber with

the classic comfort of leather. This blend ensures that the shoes are as functional as they are stylish, suitable for a variety of surfaces and weather conditions. Additionally, the brand has updated the traditional hook closure with a modern zip system, making the shoes easier to fasten while adding a contemporary touch.

Among the standout pieces in the collection is the Classic Black Tabi Boots with a 3cm heel, which Sato described as ‘the perfect fusion of tradition and modernity’. The sleek design, combined with sustainable materials and exceptional comfort, has made this piece a customer favourite, versatile enough to complement virtually any outfit. Looking ahead, Woodchucksato is constantly evolving. The design team

is continually exploring new styles and refining current offerings, driven by a passion for innovation. “We’re always working on something new, striving to keep our collection fresh while staying true to the essence of traditional tabi footwear.”

Partnerships are also an essential aspect of Woodchucksato’s growth. The brand is keen on collaborating with retailers who share their vision and are open to new stocking opportunities. “We love connecting with people who appreciate the craftsmanship and culture behind our shoes.”

Woodchucksato is not just a shoe brand—it’s a community built on a shared love for craftsmanship, culture, and creativity. Each pair of tabi shoes is meticulously crafted in their workshop, combining time-honoured techniques with the finest materials to ensure comfort, durability, and style. From the first stitch to the final finish, every detail reflects Sato’s dedication to perfection. But the brand’s commitment goes beyond footwear; it’s about making a positive impact on the world through

sustainable and ethical practices.

Whether you’re a seasoned tabi enthusiast or new to this unique footwear, Woodchucksato offers something for everyone. Their diverse collection includes classic designs, bold colours, and innovative styles, each with its own unique charm.

“We’re not just selling shoes; we’re inviting people to be part of a larger story,” Sato concluded. Step into style and tradition with Woodchucksato, and experience the difference that true craftsmanship makes.

Smooth Like Butter

uttery yellows and limoncello hues have quickly spiked in popularity in collections across the globe. From footwear to ready-to-wear to couture, it shot to fame seemingly overnight.

For this issue, we are focusing on 2024 Fall Couture Fashion Week in Paris, where soft to saturated yellows shined through the collections of several designers.

Armani Privé’s lineup was full of highsheen looks with long-line silhouettes. This piece is a great example of what to expect from the collection: beautiful attention to detail and tight tailoring. This look is in a soft butter yellow hue close to Mara 1-610.

Right in time for Spring, Giambattista’s couture show was filled with textured floral detailing. Inspired by India where Giambattista Valli immersed his senses among the scented shrubs and flowers. Filled with various pastel monochromatic tulle looks, this piece stood out in a colour like Mara 1-416. “It isn’t about India, rather about a sort of surreal

Threads available from

conversation that for me is very real.”

Ashi Studio presented a more avant-garde couture collection. With exaggerated silhouettes and interesting textures, each look came down the runway utterly different from the last. This highly textured co-ord is a close match to Mara 2-169.

Hong Kong designer Robert Wun is known for his incredible silhouettes. The colourful yet intricate designs are deeply impactful and an incredible show to experience in person. This burnt yellow look is a perfect match to Mara 1-580.

Elie Saab showed a collection that referenced their 1990 collection, which they felt still looked fresh. They wanted to share proof that their work has been consistent all along. Showing a lineup of very wearable couture, this look in a hue like Mara 1-591 was near the closing of the runway.

Smooth like butter, this fabric, in a hue like Mara 1-893, effortlessly melted off the model as she came down the runway. Alexis Mabille’s Fall 2024 Couture collection, filled with floorlength gowns, was also (mostly) very commercially viable.

MARA 1-610
MARA 1-416
ARMANI PRIVÉ

ASHI STUDIO

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
ALEXIS MABILLE
ELIE SAAB
ROBERT WUN

Balmerino Flat - Milk Patent Deadly Ponies

Amara Women's Mary Jane Ballets Number One Shoes

Bondi Flat Mi Piaci
Ballet Flat - Milk La Tribe
Ballet
Sari Alias Mae
Blaire Ballet Flat Merchant

Surfbird Bared Footwear

Zpinderella Soft Pink Ballet Flats novo

Gather Flat - Black Mesh Chaos & Harmony

Bliss
Claudia Quilted Ballet Country Road
Tutu
Jeffrey Campbell
Audrey Black Scarpa

beyond trend forecasting: how to master trend identification in retail

How do you determine what’s trending? Rather, how do you decide what trends will last and be worth your investment in the long run? Understanding what is currently trending in retail is one thing; understanding a trend’s lifecycle and longevity is another.

In today’s world, retailers must look beyond trend-forecasting tools and integrate real-time market data into all design decisions to compete on the global retail scale. Without this context, how do you expect to respond swiftly to changes in the fashion industry and make investments that last?

WHY TREND FORECASTING ISN’T ENOUGH

Identifying trends can be timeconsuming, as retailers must analyze multiple data sources. And, without

market data, it’s hard to know whether or not an investment makes sense. Making product and pricing decisions at the design stage becomes a guessing game without competitor data. By taking the next step in trend identification, and utilizing market data to gain a full understanding of the trend lifecycle, you can make more informed decisions. This added context allows you to:

• Get ahead of the competition by tracking when certain products/ categories are selling out and acting

on it before the trend has even been identified.

• Save time by accessing a consolidated view of internal, customer, and market data, providing inspirational and factual information.

• Empower your decision-making and feel confident by having the data to back your investment decisions.

THE DREAM TEAM: TREND IDENTIFICATION + MARKET DATA

Market data gives you the ability to not only identify trends, but also to track and verify them, so you know when to invest more and when to get out.

For example, imagine you’re using trend forecasting software that predicts an upcoming trend in bubble hems. While this forecast provides a useful starting point, it lacks the depth and context needed to make fully informed decisions.

By incorporating real-time market data, you discover that several competitors have not only launched bubble hem collections, but are also experiencing rapid sell-through rates and receiving positive customer feedback.

This market context allows you to:

• Identify the gap in your own dress/ skirt offerings, confirming that the style isn’t just a predicted trend, but has current market demand.

• Introduce a new clothing line tailored to your customer base, backed by evidence of competitor success and consumer interest.

• Adjust your inventory and marketing strategies to highlight the bubble hem to align with customer preferences and trends.

By combining trend identification with comprehensive market data through a retail intelligence platform, you gain a holistic view of the trend lifecycle,

empowering you to make more informed investment decisions and stay ahead of the competition.

CONCLUSION

EDITED collects data from multiple sources, including ecommerce websites, social media, and marketplaces, to provide detailed information on products, pricing, inventory levels, and competitive landscapes.

Our breadth of data – 12+ years across 5B+ SKUs in over 110 countries – and ability to collect and analyze real-time data helps retailers see the full picture and respond quickly and accurately to trends in the fashion space.

DYSON DELVES INTO HAIR CARE

Dyson has entered the beauty world with its first-ever wetline styling product, the Dyson Chitosan.

Powered by chitosan, a complex macromolecule derived from oyster mushrooms and engineered with Dyson Triodetic technology, the range results from over a decade of investment in hair health.

Building on the research and innovation into hair science behind Dyson hair care devices, this new styling range followed Dyson’s same engineering mindset, focusing on delivering high-performance products and experiences.

Designed to combat the problems of some others, which use simple polymers that lock hair strands together with stiff bonds, the Dyson Chitosan styling range works differently to deliver flexible all-day hold, with movement and shine, without the crunch for all hair types, even in highhumidity environments.

Dyson engineers have continued to push boundaries by launching technological advancements to existing tools and entirely new innovations. Chitosan is a molecule that those in the beauty community may not be familiar with. Each bottle harnesses the power of up to eight oyster mushrooms.

“Our engineers have rigorously tested to find the optimum percentage

of chitosan for all-day, flexible hold while maintaining natural movement,” said Kathleen Pierce, President of Beauty at Dyson.

The Pre-style Cream transforms from a cream to a sheer serum as you work the formula in your hand, ensuring an even application and a touchable, longlasting hold with a natural feel.

Engineered for all hair types, it has four innovative variants, each precisely blended with ingredients tailored to different natural hair shapes and conditioning preferences for the best possible results.

“Hair is unique. We found through research that not one formula can do it all. Adapting the levels of polymers and emollients in each variant, using lighter oils such as grapeseed oil for the light variants, and richer oils like caster seed oil in the rich variants, personalises the formulas to your specific needs,” said Will Kerr, VP of New Product Development.

The Post-style Cream holds and defines the end style for a soft, flexible, all-day hold with movement and shine. The lightweight serum contains a blend of amino acids known to repair signs of surface damage.

“The promise of flexible retention with movement and shine is an innovation

I know from over 20 years of work as a celebrity stylist will benefit many. This is exactly why Dyson wanted to find a solution to common frustrations with their first product line and design something for all hair types,” said Matthew Collins, Dyson Ambassador.

The Dyson-engineered precision applicator has also been rigorously tested to deliver the same amount, pump after pump. An exact 0.22ml is dispensed every time, helping to prevent product wastage or overuse.

The full-size formulation packaging is refillable, and the outer packaging is tested and built to last. Plus, the refill cartridges can be recycled at home.

In delivering an unparalleled user experience alongside its highperformance products, Dyson introduced a brand-new NFC experience.

With everything from styling and dosage guidance to ingredient information, support, and the ability to repurchase, this new experience has brought everything an owner could need directly to their fingertips where they want when they want.

The launch into formulations has represented a new frontier for Dyson, delving into ingredient research and expertise. Dyson has a lot more in its beauty pipeline that is still to come.

Unit 2A, 8 Corban Avenue, Henderson, Auckland, New Zealand

Contact: Shay Narsey

T: +64 9 838 8674 or +64 21 274 2910

E: info@directsewing.co.nz www.directsewing.co.nz

IDENTITY SOLUTIONS LTD

10 Gordon Road, Morningside, Auckland, New Zealand

Contact: Simon Wall

T: 0800 285 223

E: info@identitys.co.nz www.identitys.co.nz

StyleCAD #1

Top Selling

PDS/Pattern Grading & Marker Planning System. StyleCAD is helping hundreds of companies in Australia, New Zealand & Fiji. Plus thousands world-wide.

ELIZABETH MACHINES CO.

T: +61 2 976 44455

E: graeme@elizabethmachines.com.au www.elizabethmachines.com.au

12c Piermark Drive, Albany Auckland, New Zealand

Contact: Bruce Hutchings

T: +64 9 571 1151

E: bruce@kudos.co.nz www.kudos.co.nz

Where it’s easy to get caught with your pants down.

Tired of waiting months to get the cash for work you’ve done back into your business where it belongs? With Pacific Invoice Finance you’ll have the money as soon as you’ve sent the invoice.

Tired of waiting months to get the cash for work you’ve done back into your business where it belongs? With Pacific Invoice Finance you’ll have the money

Finance House, Level 1, 183 Montreal Street, P O Box 22 321, Christchurch. Phone: (03) 379 0528

Level 14, 120 Albert Street, P O Box 3292

pacificinvoicefinance.co.nz

0800 INVOICE/0800 468 6423

0800INVOICE

Auckland, Phone: (09) 377 8490

Finance House, Level 1, 183 Montreal Street, P O Box 22 321, Christchurch. Phone: (03) 379 0528

Level 14, 120 Albert Street, P O Box 3292

Level 14,120 Albert Street, P.O. Box 3292, Auckland, New Zealand

pacificinvoicefinance.co.nz

0800INVOICE

Finance House,181 Montreal Street, P.O. Box 22 321, Christchurch, New Zealand

Auckland, Phone: (09) 377 8490

E: info@pifnz.co.nz www.pifnz.co.nz

Patterns made with passion and expertise

phone 027 4061 336 | email sue@patternpotentials.co.nz

55 Longhurst Terrace, Cashmere, Christchurch, New Zealand

Contact: Bruce Moore

T: +64 274 341 433

E: bruce@bma.co.nz www.propress.co.nz

Samples cut and made with quality and flare

phone 021 425 149 | email helenh@hsr.co.nz

i m p l y t u r n i n g y o u r

w i t h t h e p e r f e c t d u o .

276 Manukau Road, Epsom, Auckland, New Zealand

Contact: Rachel Beechey

T: +64 9 520 5290 E: rachel@roses.co.nz www.roses.co.nz

christchurch@sewingtime.co.nz

31a Elliot Street, Papakura, Auckland, New Zealand

Contact: Shannon Gribble T: +64 9 299 6801

E: shannong@stirlingcutting.co.nz www.stirlingcutting.co.nz

61a Randolph Street, Eden Terrace, Auckland, New Zealand

Contact: Mandy Tomlinson PH: 64 27 227 0157 E: mandy@taylorboutique.co.nz

VITAG RETAIL TECHNOLOGIES

Unit i, 29 Sir William Avenue, East Tamaki Auckland, New Zealand

Contact: Doug Todd T: 0800 736 352

E: sales@vitag.co.nz www.vitag.co.nz

Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.