Apparel Magazine | September 2024

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Drowning in Unpaid Coverage

In today's fashion industry, do influencers hold significant power? While some may be shaping trends and directing consumer behaviour - do any of them have real experience and knowledge about what they are talking about? A growing issue has emerged that demands attention: many influencers are being gifted products by brands, only to turn around and secretly sell the gifts online either through Closed Friends on Instagram, Facebook Marketplace, Designer Wardrobe or Trademe. This practice undermines the integrity of influencer marketing and raises ethical questions about transparency and brand representation. On top of this, influencers (much like us local media) need money to survive.

Equally concerning is the role of PR companies, many of whom are now expecting media coverage without

offering any compensation. This is nothing new, but they are getting very aggressive about their demands on free press releases. While saving brands' budgets, this approach is slowly suffocating local media outlets. With limited advertising and revenue streams, media companies that were once the backbone of fashion journalism are now struggling to survive. It’s a troubling downhill battle, as the press plays a crucial role in giving voice to local designers, independent brands, and diverse creative communities.

If you are working with a PR company, it’s time to reassess the approach. Coverage doesn’t happen in a vacuum — it requires time, resources, and expertise. Adding a budget to support media through paid partnerships or advertising spending is ethical and essential to sustaining the local fashion

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INCREASING SALES AT CENTRESTAGE

Organised by the HKTDC and sponsored by the CCIDA, CENTRESTAGE, the region's annual fashion showcase has concluded successfully.

CENTRESTAGE showcased more than 250 brands from 18 countries and regions, setting a record for brand participation at the event. The four-day physical fair attracted more than 8,500 buyers from 82 countries and regions, significantly increasing buyers from Thailand, Malaysia, Japan, Taiwan and more.

SEAMLESS SS'25 COLLECTION BY ICEBREAKER

With the warmer days approaching, icebreaker, a New Zealand-based Merino natural performance apparel company, launched its SS’25 collection. Featuring last season’s industry-leading innovation ZoneKnit Seamless in new men's styles and a wide array of its hero products, such as the Cool-Lite Sphere SS Tee and 200 RealFleece Descender Long Sleeve Half Zip Jacket, in refreshing new patterns and colourways, the performance-led collection has inspired a ‘move to natural’ on hikes, runs, and outdoor and urban adventures throughout the warmer months.

MECCA LAUNCHES NEW ILLUMINATING DROPS

Introducing MECCA COSMETICA’s In A Good Light Illuminating Drops SPF30.

MECCA announced the launch of its In A Good Light Illuminating Drops SPF30, the perfect solution for achieving luminous, sunkissed skin without the sun.

Infused with skin-loving ingredients like Niacinamide and Glycerin, these tinted drops not only illuminate but also protect, providing SPF30 defense against harmful rays. Available in four shades: Sunlight, golden, Bronze, and Dusk, these drops brighten, bronze, and enhance your natural glow.

HARRY LAMBERT X

ZARA

Fashion stylist Harry Lambert and ZARA’s latest second collaboration invites customers to enter its fantasy Big Top. For this 70-piece offering, Lambert was inspired by the colour palette and design details that define a bazaar. All the items share a sense of joy inspired by the way places like a circus, a seaside coast, or a rollercoaster-packed theme park evoke such a feeling.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

MINDFUL FASHION SUPREME WINNERS

The winners of the Mindful Fashion Circular Design Awards were announced at a gala event with New Zealand’s finest fashion innovations made from reimagined waste materials.

Designers and businesses from around the country were challenged to showcase innovative ways to keep materials in use while guiding their work with a dual-lens of their unique place in the world and circular economy principles.

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RECORD-BREAKING PARTICIPATION AT CENTRESTAGE

CENTRESTAGE, organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) and sponsored by the Cultural and Creative Industries Development Agency (CCIDA), has begun at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC).

This year, CENTRESTAGE has welcomed both industry buyers and the public free of charge for the entire duration. Numerous fashion and accessory brands helped to offer a unique shopping experience.

Entering its ninth edition, CENTRESTAGE has become a hallmark event for Asia-Pacific and international fashion. Notable among the labels joining this year’s event are the eponymous brand of Robert Wun, who became the first Hong Kong-born designer to grace the prestigious Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week; British brand ROKSANDA; sustainable luxury fashion brand PATRICK McDOWELL; French brand BLVCK PARIS and avantgarde Italian brand LH (LA HAINE INSIDE US).

The exhibition also presented various brands from Mainland China, Taiwan, Japan, Korea, India, and ASEAN countries. Hong Kong also has a significant presence, showcasing several brands for the first time, including MORAL, KnitWarm, Z I D I, 35 Degrees, STELLAM, SWAZ Jewelry, LOVE BY THE MOON and others.

The CENTRESTAGE exhibition area featured five zones, including the new Athleisure and Circular Fashion zones, The Craftsmanship, Contemporary, and Urban zones, each showcasing distinctive elements.

The HKTDC has continued to invite buyers from around the world to source at CENTRESTAGE, including major multi-brand stores such as H. Lorenzo from the United States, Elevastor from

France, VOO Store from Germany, The Four-Eyed Limited from Japan, Beaker from South Korea, and CLUB DESIGNER from Taiwan, and department stores including Hankyu from Japan and Galeries Lafayette from France.

CENTRESTAGE featured a series of captivating fashion shows with the latest collections from five local designers, including CHARLOTTE NG STUDIO, From Clothing Of, Lapeewee, IP Axis Studio and WHY. Internationally acclaimed golf brand ASHWORTH has collaborated with renowned Hong Kong designer Mountain Yam, debuting a collaborative line of athleisure wear that rides the wave of sporting enthusiasm ignited by the Paris Olympics.

The Fashion Hong Kong Runway Show presented a distinctive blend

of fashion and film, unveiling the latest collections from four fashion brands: ANGUS TSUI, röyksopp gakkai, selfFab., and Z I D I. During the show, a fashion short film helmed by Steve Chan, director of Weeds on Fire, premiered.

CENTRESTAGE will also host fashion shows from various regions, including the "Greater Bay Area Fashion Fusion Show" organised by Fashion Farm Foundation with the CCIDA as the Lead Sponsor; the "Macao Fashion Parade" by the Macao Productivity and Technology Transfer Center; the "Thai Designers' Showcase" by Thailand’s Department of International Trade Promotion; and the “Young Knitwear Designers’ Contest” from the Knitwear Innovation and Design Society.

The grand opening show, CENTRESTAGE ELITES, featured a premiere fashion show themed “Home Coming” by internationally acclaimed fashion designer Robert Wun. The event was held last night at the Hong Kong Palace Museum—the first fashion show at this iconic venue.

In addition to presenting a series of captivating fashion shows,

CENTRESTAGE has served as a platform for industry exchange and discussions on the future development directions within the fashion sector.

British master designer Roksanda Ilincic held a sharing session and engaged with attendees on topics ranging from her creative inspirations to exploring the path to brand success.

Her brand, ROKSANDA, has garnered international acclaim and has been worn by prominent figures.

The Laboratory for Artificial Intelligence in Design (AiDLab) will explore using artificial intelligence (AI) in fashion design, and representatives from Redress and Advance Denim will share insights on sustainable fashion industry practices.

CENTRESTAGE concludes with the highlight event, the Hong Kong Young Fashion Designers' Contest (YDC). In the Athleisure zone, a fencing game allows participants to wield prop swords and face off against AI fencers on screen.

CENTRESTAGE runs concurrently with the HKTDC Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair and Salon de TIME.

DEADLY PONIES PRIMORDIAL

Deadly Ponies' new season collection, Primordial, features various key themes inspired by the natural world, with a focus on raw and untamed elements. The collection has explored rich, earthy tones like emerald as well as textures such as croc, hand-created and pleated leather, lush cheetah velvet, and calf nappa, making it bold and evocative.

Burnished leather, developed specifically for footwear, was also introduced for the first time. This handmade technique involved buffing the leather to create an antique, time-worn look that added a unique depth to the designs.

Many months were spent perfecting the Hydra styles, which required a unique knotting and weaving technique. The Hydra footwear also utilised Deadly Ponies’ excess patent lather from previous collections, reducing waste and making the most of available resources. The lush velvet was another debut developed by an Italian furniture maker known for upholstery.

“Our target audience for this collection includes both our core customers who appreciate Deadly Ponies’ classic, timeless pieces and a new demographic attracted to our updated, contemporary styles,” said

founder Liam Bowden.

“We’ve introduced new shapes and refined our key materials and styles, including developing soft croc leather, a new texture for us. This collection represents an evolution in integrating our bags and footwear, which is still a new category for us.”

Emerging trends, such as the shift toward more practical footwear and the return of ballet flats, have been incorporated into the Primordial collection. The neutral and clean palette for the bags also reflected the trends of timeless wardrobe staples and minimalism.

Core essentials of the Deadly Ponies brand, like Mr Siamese and Mr Sling Micro, had also been renewed and elevated for the season and received positive encouragement from customers, showcasing the beginning of a new chapter.

“I find the cheetah pieces particularly stand out. We've seen an amazing reaction from customers, with these items selling out within the first two weeks.”

Another milestone for the brand was achieving the B Corp certification. Bowden said this represented years of dedicated effort and behind-the-scenes work.

“Achieving B Corp status highlights our commitment to the highest social and environmental performance standards, accountability, and transparency. It reflects our approach to sustainability and the extensive work involved in aligning every aspect of our operations with these rigorous standards.”

Deadly Ponies values its partnerships with stockists and is always open to exploring opportunities with potential new stockists. If interested, please reach out to hello@deadlyponies.com.

BEN WALTERS PROPER GOODS

Proper Goods is a family-owned eyewear distributor across Australia and New Zealand, currently headed by Ben Walters. His experience within the local fashion industry included both retail and wholesale.

His path to eyewear began in 2009 when he was appointed the first sales representative locally for MOSCOT. Early on, this involved flying across Australia and New Zealand and knocking on as many doors as possible in a week. Today, he leads the team and is involved in planning, buying, finance and strategy.

“Thankfully, from time to time, I still get out and see the market, either to view trends and products or to source brands at international trade shows. Closer to home, I like to check in on the local atmosphere with our amazing independent partner stores,” said Walters.

“Eyewear is experiencing a significant trend, a phase marked by maximalism.

Whether it’s thick acetate frames with intricate hardware or finely crafted metalwork with the precision of a luxury watch, this is not the time to be subtle.”

He added that despite the dramatic designs, the focus has been on bold construction rather than just being flashy, although that remains for the adventurous.

Like all areas of fashion, eyewear trends have continued to adjust and evolve, returning to areas of the past. In his fifteen years in the industry, Walters has observed several shifts, such as toward value and simplicity during the financial crisis, which was also mirrored in the fashion world.

Frames and sunglasses moved toward easy-to-wear, well-fitting, and

lightweight acetate construction. Out of this rose the advent of a number of price-conscious brands, Warby Parker in the US and a few others that drew inspiration from this model locally, Bailey Nelson and Oscar Wylee following.

On the back end of this, and as a rebuttal to the cheap and cheerful, global brands started to differentiate themselves in areas where cheaper outfits could not play. Build and construction points were exaggerated and expensive, with a drive toward a buyless-buy-better sensibility; frames were built as if they might just last a lifetime.

At the same time, wearers started to observe that everyone looked the same, with simple, easy-wearing frames and a pair of beige chinos, and began the

Le Bron wears his very own bespoke versions (they offer this service in their Paris ateliers, one of the very few brands to offer this fully tailored service) and that's enough of a nod of approval for me.

movement to stand out from the crowd.

Thick-cut bold acetate designs, sometimes too large for the frame hardware, intricate metal work, and details had become eyewear's version of maximalism. The shapes for men became more adventurous, with 50s movie directors inspired uplift over the brow, a slight cat's eye and Hollywood celebrity tinted lenses.

Aside from building everything with tougher, thicker acetate and bigger hinges, brands also became more mindful of materiality and sustainability, attempting to move away from petrochemical compounds used in the making of plastics or using waste plastic that has been molecularly broken down to form a new starting compound. An example that Walters mentioned was MYKITA, which has successfully done this with its long-time steel manufacturing partner.

“The eyewear industry is rife with poor build quality, margin saving antics from big corporates, and on the smaller end of town, entry price point brands that exist due to a reasonably low barrier to entry. Yet, most companies use the same marketing tags for being handmade, the number of steps to make one of their products, and the country of manufacture, usually Italy or Japan,” added Walters.

“Made in Italy or Japan did not often mean wholly made in Italy, and it might be that only the screws that hold the arms to the front of the frame were installed in Italy. It doesn't matter if you take 80 steps to make a frame, if every step of the way you are choosing to save on costs; acetate that cures for a shorter period making the frame less durable to wear, cheaper hardware, screws, or a day

or two less of polishing not to mention the business of licensing where a large corporation uses a library of well-used 'designs' and stamps the frame with a brand name like Chanel, Prada or Dior.”

Proper Goods has been supporting brands that make goods of proper build, quality, and assurance. It represents brands of proper global standing, a marketing cue that goes beyond the industry noise with ownable history, heritage, technique, or evolution of design standards.

Not many brands can claim 109 years of trading history and remain independent, family-owned, and operated, and even fewer in the eyewear game. Garrett Leight came from a family that shaped a new phase of the eyewear business in the 1990s. He has carried that family know-how into a generational brand that celebrates Los Angeles globally.

“Moscot gets to sprinkle that with a bit of Lower East Side NYC magic, which makes for a brand that customers love to align with. I challenge you to find a trendy hospitality spot or fashion store in Paris where your server isn't wearing GLCO.”

MYKITA emerged with a design and build philosophy that completely reshaped how eyewear has been made, with flat stainless steel sheets folded intricately with a nod to origami. It has been continuously pushing the market forward with its new range of acetate products, which have taken waste plastic and turned it into eyewear. It is the first globally to do this with 100 percent of its plastics.

Ahlem, which celebrated ten years of business this year, has design aspects that lean into art and architecture principles with the finest finishing made of a mix of acetate and precious metals

such as palladium or ruthenium, with gold plating on everything.

“Le Bron wears his very own bespoke versions (they offer this service in their Paris ateliers, one of the very few brands to offer this fully tailored service) and that's enough of a nod of approval for me.”

Regarding eyewear brands performing well in the Australasian region, Walters mentioned the Korean brand Gentle Monster in the lower price range and MOSCOT and Garrett Leight in the mild price point.

In the upper end, technical twists and design elements differentiate brands like MYKITA, Ahlem, Theo, and Kuboraum. Japanese products from brands like Akoni Eyewear, the fashion houses of Balmain and Valentino and Jacques Marie Mage have also dominated the luxury price point.

He said that macroeconomic challenges locally have impacted the speed of growth of Proper Goods over the last 18 months. At the same time, he observed that consumers have become willing to spend more on products that last longer, leading to better-quality products and services. Outside of this, an ageing population and a higher dependence on optical needs will continue to grow the overall customer base.

Walters predicted that future trends would include more design and technology integration, the continuation of minimalism, and quiet luxury.

“I would prefer to keep technology out of every possible area of my life. I hope to be raw-dogging my eyewear choices well into the future. Quality you can touch, feel and know is there, but you can't necessarily see it - it doesn't whack you in the face. Less flash, more gas.”

NOM*d

ANTI-GONE COLLECTION

New Zealand designer Margi Robertson, founder of NOM*d, visited the Rothko exhibition earlier this year and was impressed by his work and the title of one of his series, Anti-Gone, which inspired the new collection.

“The colour palette inspired by Rothko can be blocked in different ways. The heavy metal and bombed prints are created with a painted effect tying back to the inspo. Circles and spheres have been applied as a concept throughout the collection, especially in the patternmaking,” said Robertson.

“We have started creating our prints and reproducing them digitally, so we are working those prints onto our popular mesh and shiny rayons so they can be worn combined or solo. It’s up to the individual to express their own identity with their selected garments.”

She added that working with new colourways and prints had been quite exciting while retaining the darkness, which has been an anchor for NOM*d.

A new shape for NOM*d has been the circle skirts, which looked incredible when paired with apron-style dresses or boxy jackets. The printed dresses from the collection were fabulous for

summer since they are easy to wear, comfortable and fit a wide demographic range. These summer garments have become the mainstay of every collection.

“Our demographic is vast, and the target audience is anyone who likes to create their point of view by expressing their style in how they dress. We design for the brand and our customers, part of our longevity as a brand is down to us walking our path.”

Sustainability has always been an essential aspect of the brand’s fabrications. Robertson said they never dispensed any unique prints they may have used over the past few years. Some cotton knit additions from Blast Summer 2018 have also been utilised for the Anti-Gone collection. This reference to tartans was distorted and reused for the collection.

Stockists can contact Margi Robertson or Sidney North at NOM*d via the contact details on the website www.nomdstore.com/nz.

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ink is in the air, and everyone from the Northern Hemisphere to the Southern Hemisphere is feeling it. In what has been a dull winter for both weather and business, it's time to turn a new leaf and look to brighter days ahead. Pink is soft, warm, joyful, and inviting—everything everyone wants to feel right now, so it's no surprise the hue has popped into almost every Spring collection. From grunge to glam, you can find a swipe of pink.

Luisa Beccaria’s Spring ready-to-wear runway was held at Milan’s Villa Reale,

a perfect pairing with the soft romantic collection. Many of the pieces were delicate dresses with charming details and dainty florals. In a hue like Mara 6-2428, this dress was a hero piece in the collection aptly titled Togetherness.

Adrian Appiolaza presented his third season as Moschino's new designer. The Spring 2025 ready-to-wear collection showcased Appiolaza’s new direction, refreshing the legacy brand for a 21stcentury audience. This collection was influenced by subcultures and cliques and included many small details. This

look in watermelon pink lends itself well to Mara 5-16.

At Genny’s spring show, organza and chiffon flowed freely down the catwalk. Creative director Sara Cavazza Facchini said backstage that the collection was a response to harsh times. This ethereal look in a colour like Mara 6-320 was one of the more clean-cut and statuesque silhouettes.

Bondage rings and bow blouses bolted down the runway for Prada’s Spring 2025 ready-to-wear presentation. The runway was filled with energy and filled

MARA 6-2428
MARA 6-320
MARA 5-16
MOSCHINO
GENNY SPRING
LUISA BECCARIA

with colours, textures, and various styles. Miuccia Prada explained backstage that the collection was a way to show the many sides of Prada. She wanted to shake up the idea of uniform dressing that has traditionally been a pillar of Prada. This body-hugging knit two-piece look was another example of pink shining in a shade similar to Mara 6-663.

For its Spring 2025 ready-to-wear collection, AVAVAV showed a fresh, offbeat take on sportswear brands. The Stockholm-based brand was fueled by its sense of humour and gimmicks.

This look, oozing with pink in a shade like Mara 6-383, features one of the pieces from Karlsson’s collaboration with adidas Originals. Karlsson added it has been a long-time dream to partner with adidas, especially since her brand is such a baby in comparison.

The 90-year-old brand Emporio Armani presented its Spring 2025 collection with the quote, “Changing so as not to change.” With over 100 looks in the collection, this one stood out for its bright bubblegum pink, like Mara 6-890.

MARA 6-663
MARA 6-383
MARA 6-890
EMPORIO
ARMANI
AVAVAV PRADA

how ai for retail transforms data into winning strategies

When the check engine light comes on in your car, you know it’s time to go to the shop for an inspection. You don’t need to understand how the engine or the intricacies of a car actually work to understand the signals it gives you. You don’t need to be a mechanic or an engineer to drive, so why should you have to be a data scientist to succeed in retail? With AI, you don’t.

IN THE CHANGING WORLD OF RETAIL, SIMPLIFY YOUR DAY WITH AI TECHNOLOGY

The retail world is more complex than ever. And, while you can’t undo the complexity, you can use AI technology to simplify everyday processes.

As a retailer, there is so much to think about. Your world is constantly changing.

For a time, a retailer’s job was all about connecting products to the right customers. Then came omnichannel strategy, a pandemic, digitalization, a move to hyper-personalization, etc., making everything more complicated.

With all of this change comes an exorbitant amount of data. There is so much more to think about, to analyze, and to incorporate into your day job.

Luckily, alongside all the changes in retail, there have also been tremendous advancements in technology and digital platforms that help you draw insights and automate previously manual tasks.

THE IMPORTANCE OF AI FOR

RETAILERS

The primary goal of AI-driven retail intelligence technology is to leverage historical and current data to make informed decisions about various aspects of retail operations. These include, assortment planning and adjusting, pricing strategies, inventory management, and site merchandising. Using artificial intelligence in retail means that with a few clicks of a button, you have the insights you need, leading to:

• Improved operational efficiency

• Increased revenue

• Better customer engagement

Reducing the Noise

An AI-driven retail intelligence platform is a powerful tool that can be used to simplify your job by acting as the signal through all of the noise. And, the best part is, you don’t need to be a data scientist to reap the benefits.

With AI retail intelligence, you can quickly and easily get answers to questions you would have previously spent hours digging through data to find. This technology surfaces actionable insights ranging from the most specific answer to the most indepth analysis, depending on the level of detail you need.

Connecting Data

By integrating real-time and historical performance, customer, and market data, you have the ability to analyze your strategy and positioning in a contextualized way.

Instead of only looking at what is happening in silos, with connected data, you can see why it is happening and make market-informed, profit-aware, and customer-centric retail decisions because you have a clear understanding of where to take action.

Because data is pre-prepared and insights are automated, you:

• Save valuable time

• Make data-driven decisions that propel your business toward increased growth and success

CONCLUSION - EDITED'S AI FOR RETAILERS

Just as you don’t need to be an automotive engineer to drive your car, you shouldn’t have to be a data scientist to navigate the intricate world of retail.

EDITED’s Retail Intelligence Platform incorporates world-class AI technology to simplify this process, connecting the dots between your data points and providing actionable insights.

By simplifying and automating processes with AI, EDITED enables you to focus on what truly matters: making informed decisions and enhancing your customers’ shopping experience.

Let us handle the mess so you can get back to merchandising – without getting lost in the data.

SECOND HAND SEPTEMBER

Designer Wardrobe, New Zealand’s largest community of pre-loved enthusiasts, has partnered with Dress for Success to introduce Second Hand September.

Since it was founded in 2029, Second Hand September has encouraged donating, reselling and re-wearing clothing throughout September. The month was specifically chosen due to the global domination of international fashion shows and events.

Aidan Bartlett, CEO of Designer Wardrobe, said that by bringing Second Hand September to New Zealand, the company wanted to raise awareness about the importance of shopping more consciously by extending the life of items that have already been loved.

“September is an ideal time that, as it’s a month typically filled with major fashion events that take place around the world. In New Zealand specifically, it’s also a time when many will transition their wardrobes from winter to spring,” said Bartlett.

He said the ultimate goal was to encourage New Zealanders to rethink how and what they buy, and embrace re-wearing, reselling, and repurposing fashion pieces that may otherwise sit unworn or unused in the back of a wardrobe collecting dust.

To celebrate the launch of Second Hand September in New Zealand, organisers have launched a Celebrity Designer Wardrobe Sale via the company’s online marketplace platform. Kiwis will be able to purchase a range of iconic pre-loved fashion pieces that have been donated by some of New Zealand’s most well-known celebrities, including broadcasters Hilary Barry and Toni Street, actress Morgana O’Reilly, singer Kaylee Bell, and stylist Sarah Stuart.

The Celebrity Designer Wardrobe Sale has featured pieces from globallyrecognisable brands like Gucci and

Chloe, alongside local labels such as Karen Walker and Trelise Cooper.

All proceeds from The Celebrity Designer Wardrobe Sale will be donated to Dress for Success Auckland, which supports the charity’s mission to empower women to achieve economic independence.

Designer Wardrobe will also donate one dollar to the charity for every ten listings on its marketplace during the Celebrity Designer Wardrobe Sale period, up to a total of NZD $3000.

Bartlett added that partnering with Dress for Success and launching The Celebrity Designer Wardrobe Sale to mark the arrival of Second Hand September in New Zealand was something the company was very proud of.

“Together, with the help of some

well-known celebrities, we want to collectively highlight why buying preloved fashion offers a smarter way to shop,” said Bartlett.

“And let’s not forget, whilst doing all of the above, we’re also raising funds for the incredible work that Dress for Success Auckland does.”

Executive Manager at Dress for Success Auckland, Robyn Moore, said repurposing has a significant impact and role across all the work the charity does.

“By Partnering with Designer Wardrobe to bring Second Hand September to New Zealand through The Celebrity Designer Wardrobe Sale, we hope to see more Kiwis recognise the importance of repurposing items from their wardrobes, as often these items still have so much life left for others to enjoy.

MI PIACI ELLIE MILLS

Mi Piaci's latest summer collection, designed by Ellie Mills, evokes sun-soaked moments of warmth and connection, where golden hues and intricate details reflect a harmonious blend of relaxed elegance and sophistication. Drawing inspiration from the Italian coastline, the collection presents a fusion of structural silhouettes, woven details, and textural elements, celebrating the beauty of solitary moments and shared experiences.

This season’s range is introduced in small, curated drops, allowing for a more focused approach to storytelling and detail. Mills explains that this method enables the brand to tap into overarching trends while offering bite-sized narratives. One of the key influences driving this collection is the continued presence of 90s minimalism and low-key luxury, a trend that Mills notes has been steadily rising.

“We've been seeing this trajectory for several seasons now,” said Mills. "While we occasionally draw inspiration from our archives for upper styling, we mainly refer to the 90s through construction elements, such as elongated, chisel, and square toe shapes, as well as a shift toward low kitten heels. This allows the silhouettes to evoke the 90s inspiration without being too literal."

Mills also highlights the collection's emphasis on understated luxury, achieved through subtle yet impactful details like feature insole constructions, tonal socks, and brushed hardware finishes. Vintage references are apparent, with exaggerated toe shapes, wedges, and material-focused designs such as toe thongs, which have seen a resurgence in recent seasons.

"Toe thongs and jandals are making a comeback, particularly in the northern hemisphere, so we had fun experimenting with different iterations— from soft strapping to padded loops with metallic accents," Mills added.

The influence of 90s and Y2K materials is further explored through ruched uppers in supple leather, which makes a return in this collection. "We introduced ruched leather in our previous season, and we've built on that for summer with centre seams on low kitten heels and ballet flats to showcase the soft, luxurious nature of the leathers used," Mills explained.

Leather continues to be a key material for Mi Piaci, valued for its high quality and durability. Mills noted the use of soft nappa and kid leathers for dressy styles, alongside metallics for evening wear, and even some more playful materials like

satin in bright citrus hues and leopard pony fur, reimagined in the brand’s bestselling ballet flat, Bambi. Woven detailing also plays a significant role this season, seen in various forms such as fully woven uppers, woven strapping, and intricate rand detailing.

"We've integrated woven elements throughout the collection, which aligns with the growing international trend while fitting perfectly with a relaxed resort aesthetic," Mills said.

Standout pieces include the Dot and Shioni styles, which elevate minimalist designs through meticulous attention to detail. "Shioni is a perfect example of low-key luxury. The covered insole and rand construction, combined with

additional padding, takes a simple strappy mule to the next level, paired with a higher kitten heel for added height,” Mills noted.

Another highlight is the Orion mule, which features metallic woven detailing. "It’s a playful piece that doesn’t go overboard on the glitz, but it’s versatile enough to be dressed up or down, making it a staple for everyday wear.”

Mi Piaci’s summer collection offers a blend of nostalgia and modernity, crafting a refined yet playful wardrobe for the season. The intricate craftsmanship and thoughtful material choices ensure each piece stands as a testament to both personal style and timeless trends.

TIMBERLAND'S ICONIC CAMPAIGN

Timberland’s latest global ICONIC campaign has continued the energy and momentum that took the world by storm last year as its iconic work boot turned 50.

Since 1973, the Original Yellow Boot has stood for grit, innovation, and timeless style, adopted by cultures and communities worldwide. The brand has called on four world-renowned creatives, Naomi Campbell, Teddy Swims, Slawn, and Kai-Isaiah Jamal, to remind it of what it means to be a true original.

The ICONIC campaign has highlighted the spirit of fearlessness, empowerment, and bold selfexpression that defined each of these influential figures. Like The Original Yellow Boot, each person in the campaign is timeless, authentic, and original.

Aptly coined, the original supermodel Naomi Campbell has been beautifully captured wearing the Original Yellow Boot to emphasise the campaign's core message of authenticity and originality.

The campaign was shot by photographer Jamie Morgan, who famously shot Campbell as a budding young model back in 1984. In this full circle moment, the two British icons came together for this powerful portrayal of the Original Yellow Boot.

Singer-songwriter Teddy Swims was captured in a striking image that reflected the same courage and honesty evoked in his genre-bending music. The monochrome palette was a deliberate nod to timelessness and authenticity, focusing solely on the essence of the individual and the enduring allure of the Original Yellow Boot.

“If I were going to call myself an icon, it would be because of authenticity. I try to be authentic and vulnerable. I think that’s an iconic thing,” said Swims.

“Through the generations, it’s been

consistent. It’s a powerful boot that represents style in such a way that never changes. It’s always fresh no matter what year it is, no matter what you put on.”

He added that the word ‘iconic' had been overused these days and could only be genuinely earned over a long period of time.

“Timberland boots have earned that status. They’ve been adopted by so many different sub-cultures over the years and are still at the forefront of fashion style, so yeh, definitely iconic.”

British-Nigerian designer and artist, Olaolu Slawn (aka, Slawn), was also portrayed in the monochromatic visuals, accentuating the connection between Slawn and the Original Yellow Boot and highlighting the resilient

spirit that defines them both.

“This boot is classic. Sexy. Very me. I’ve got like six pairs,” said Slawn.

The ICONIC campaign was completed with striking visuals of Kai-Isaiah Jamal, a model, poet, and non-binary, trans visibility activist, described as an icon of their generation. A pioneer in their field, they sought to uplift marginalised voices and celebrate their most authentic selves.

“For me iconic is things that have legacy, history, and cultural footprints. Ultimately, the story behind Timberland and how culture was embraced and has birthed from it a new culture, for me, that is deeply iconic.”

After the 50th anniversary and following a year of elevated fashion collaborations with Louis Vuitton, Wales Bonner, and White Mountaineering, the ICONIC campaign has planted a firm stake in the ground.

“We’ve seen tremendous energy behind the brand since our anniversary, with several luxury fashion collaborations this year alone,” said Maisie Willoughby, Chief Marketing Officer for Timberland.

“The ICONIC campaign is an extension of that energy, signifying a fresh direction for the brand and fueling our status as the arbiter of boot culture. This campaign is incredibly bold and authentic, and Timberland has always been about embracing originality; and what is more iconic than the Original Yellow Boot?”

The Original Yellow Boot’s distinctive wheat colour, craftsmanship, and comfort have solidified its status as the most recognisable boot in the world, a testament to authenticity and the power youth culture has on brands.

TAG HEUER UNVEILS THE NEW MONACO CHRONOGRAPH RACING GREEN

La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland – 19 September 2024: TAG Heuer, the Swiss luxury watchmaker, introduced the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green, continuing its celebration of the brand’s rich racing heritage.

This release marks the second chapter in the Monaco Racing series and adds a new element to the TAG Heuer Monaco collection. The latest edition pays tribute to the iconic racing liveries, this time honouring British motorsport with its renowned racing green.

TAG Heuer’s long-standing association with motorsports is embodied in the TAG Heuer Monaco collection.

Launched in 1969, the Monaco became a revolutionary design with its squarecased, water-resistant chronograph, housing the innovative Calibre 11 movement. More than just a striking timepiece, the Monaco was named after the famous principality that hosts one of Formula 1’s most prestigious races, cementing the connection between TAG Heuer and racing.

The Monaco collection also became

synonymous with Steve McQueen, who famously wore the model during the 1970 filming of Le Mans. By donning the same racing suit and watch brand as his personal driver and coach, Jo Siffert, McQueen aimed to embody the authenticity of a true racing driver, cementing the Heuer Monaco’s place as a style icon.

Through the years, the Monaco collection evolved, incorporating cutting-edge materials and technology while maintaining its avant-garde design spirit. The new TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green continues this tradition, paying homage to the brand’s deep racing history, following the Racing Blue edition of 2023.

The Monaco has consistently connected TAG Heuer to motorsport’s past. In the early 20th century, racing cars were recognised by national

colours rather than sponsor logos. Nations like Italy sported vibrant reds, Germany moved from white to silver, and France donned the signature blue that inspired last year’s Monaco Chronograph Racing Blue. This year, British racing green takes the spotlight in the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green.

The British racing green, first seen on the Napier 50 driven by Selwyn Edge in the 1902 Gordon Bennett Cup, has been a defining colour in motorsport ever since. This tradition inspired TAG Heuer’s latest release, with every detail reflecting the classic elements of British racing cars, down to the subtle yellow and white accents.

The watch’s silver sunray-brushed dial mirrors the elegant, engine-turned dashboards of vintage race cars from the 1920s and 1930s. It features eight polished, silvered hour markers and 12 light green Super-LumiNova® dot markers, ensuring visibility at all times. The yellow stripe on the 12 o’clock

baton marker complements the yellow accents on the chronograph’s central hand, further enhancing its connection to the motorsport aesthetic.

The green subdials provide a sophisticated touch, reminiscent of the traditional British racing green, while the historic Heuer logo on the dial appeals to collectors. The 9 o’clock crown, an iconic feature since 1969, remains a distinctive Monaco design.

Powered by the automatic chronograph Calibre 11 and encased in a grade-2 titanium case, the watch combines durability and lightness, ideal for active wear. Its sapphire caseback offers a glimpse into the movement, while the green perforated leather strap with titanium folding clasp adds a touch of classic British elegance. Limited to just 1,000 pieces, each TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green bears the engraving “ONE OF 1000” on its caseback and comes in custom black packaging with striking yellow accents.

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