Apparel Magazine // February 2017

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FEBRUARY 2017 I VOL 50 I NO 2

STUDENT LIFE pg 22

09 MENSWEAR NEWS 18 PHOTOSHOOT 21 APPAREL MEETS . . . apparelmagazine.co.nz

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THE TOAST TEST

Before I start, grab a piece of paper and a pen. Now draw instructions for an alien for how to make toast with no words.

Done? This is an exercise in systems thinking. The average illustration has between four and eight steps, but Tom Wujec said the “sweet spot” is between five and thirteen.

The concept is not how well you draw, but how one breaks down a situation and explains it. While making toast doesn’t sound all that complicated, you’d be surprised what happens when you start illustrating simple instructions.

This simple test will help you and your staff solve future complex problems as it reveals unexpected truths behind how your staff work. For example; giving

a staff member a task with no further information might be okay for a one to three step toast person, but difficult for a five and up step toast person. Try it with your staff, and we’d love to see the results.

The Online Retailer New Zealand roadshow is coming to Auckland on March 10th and can be found at the Grand Millennium Hotel. It focuses on equipping local retailers with everything you need to know about how to deliver an outstanding customer experience from start to finish. Learn how to understand your customer, create a customer centric culture and embrace an omnichannel vision, set up your business for international success and much more. For more information or to buy tickets, visit our website.

Two factory workers are talking. The woman says, “I can make the boss give me the day off.” The man replies, “And how would you do that?” The woman jumps up and hangs upside down from the ceiling. Their boss immediately came in and said “What are you doing?!”

The woman replied, “I’m a light bulb.” The boss then says, “You’ve been working so much that you’ve gone crazy. I think you need to take the day off.” The man starts to follow her and the boss says, “Hey, where are you going?” The man replied, “I’m going home too. I can’t work in the dark.” caitlan@reviewmags.com ON THE COVER:

Garment by SIT Bachelor of Fashion graduate Kassandra Rattrie.

Modelled by SIT fashion graduate Lenon Wakuwa Photo taken by a SIT arts student George Borrie

The proper term for a tie collector is a grabologist.

The first pair of Levi’s was sold in 1856 for approximately $6 worth of gold dust.

Astronaut Chris Hadfield said there’s no need to do laundry in space. Instead they throw dirty clothes outside and they are incinerated by the Earth’s atmosphere.

PUBLISHER MANAGING DIRECTOR EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DESIGNER PHOTOGRAPHER ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

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Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com

French cuffs aren’t actually French, it was a British invention to fasten easily at the appropriate length with the excess material folded.

Steve Jobs’ go-to trainer was the New Balance 991.

ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2016 NZ Apparel Magazine.

SELF.STYLED Anthony Lycett

Self.Styled is about the celebration of freedom of expression, diversity and individualism through personal style. Showcasing photographic diptychs of a select group of fabulous urbanites, each double-page spread illustrates a unique personal choice while implicitly exploring themes such as gender, colour, body shape and taste. Since embarking on the project in 2008, Anthony Lycett has photographed people from all walks of life.

His ever-growing body of work provides a fascinating overview of the multifaceted vibrancy of urban cultures and subcultures.

FASHION FORWARD: 300 YEARS OF FASHION Rizzoli

Tracing the evolution of fashion, from the opulence of the court of Louis XV to the catwalk couture of today, this stunningly illustrated volume charts three centuries of fashion trends and innovations.

Published to accompany a major exhibition that chronicles fashion from the seventeenth century to the present, the volume features three hundred iconic pieces, it highlights key moments in fashion history and provides new insight into the designers, patrons, and groundbreaking techniques and materials.

STUDIO 54 Ian Schrager

In the first official book on the legendary club, cofounder Ian Schrager presents a spectacular volume brimming with starstudded photographs and personal stories from the greatest party of all time. With hundreds of photographs, many of which have never been seen before, of celebrities and beautiful people and engaging stories and quotes from such cultural luminaries as Liza Minnelli, David Geffen, Brooke Shields, Pat Cleveland, and Diane von Furstenberg, this exciting volume depicts the wild energy and glittering creativity of the era.

7– 9 FEB 2017 GDS-ONLINE.COM

For all GDS information and advice on travel and accommodation options, apparelmagazine.co.nz contact Robert Laing, Messe Reps. & Travel, 09 5219200, robert@messereps.co.nz

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PURCHASE WITH A PURPOSE

PERFECT SIZE RANGE AND FITS

Established in 2003 by Cathy and her two sisters, Jacata quickly gained a reputation for friendly, accurate and highly-skilled services. Many of their original clients are still with them today. The company rapidly outgrew its original premises in Hillsborough, then Western Springs and is now based in Auckland’s Eden Terrace. Equipped with years of experience in the fashion industry, Jacata even launched its own men’s shirt label Strongfit in 2015. The team enjoys the challenges of the business and meeting their clients’ various needs.

Year on year, designers are seeing the benefits of using computer grading and marker making and with their patterns in Jacata’s computerised system means no more searching through masses of card sets, or needing to store many seasons worth of work. The company can send through or print out card copy or paper marker of past styles to clients should they need to run another. The team are also able to convert patterns so they can be read by other CAD systems both in New Zealand and offshore.

By offering this service it allows clients to produce their ranges offshore, yet still remain in complete control of the fit for each size produced. And by having the ability to review your specs before you send them you are making sure each season is being produced in the most cost-effective way possible. The team at Jacata understand how crucially important it is to perfect size ranges and fits to meet the evolving needs of the retail customer, both from a design and business perspective. For more information, contact Jacata on 09 356 7037 or visit www.jacata.co.nz.

EziBuy partnered with New Zealand’s top fashion labels Andrea Moore, Moochi and Storm to produce two stylish tees and a tank to raise money to help find a cure for breast cancer. All of the t-shirts and tanks sold out within the first week and the funds from them will be used to accelerate the quality of research into prevention, earlier detection, diagnosis and treatment of breast cancer in New Zealand.

“We’re thrilled with this year’s designs and so thankful to our official charity partner, EziBuy and to our fashion designers,” said Phillipa Green, general manager at Breast Cancer Cure.

SGC AT DUNEDIN FASHION WEEK

Stolen Girlfriends Club will launch a new high winter collection at iD Dunedin Fashion Week’s premier railway catwalk shows as this year’s national guest designer.

Founded by friends Marc Moore, Dan Gosling and Luke Harwood, Stolen Girlfriends Club is known for its rock ‘n’ roll attitude and youthful spirit. The new ‘actual winter’ collection, titled ‘The Curse That Flew Right Past You’ will feature a luxurious mix of grunge-inspired classics with a utility feel.

The addition of SGC follows a proud tradition of showcasing high-profile national guest designers on the iD runway, which in the past has included Zambesi, Liz Mitchell, WORLD, Hailwood, Cybele, Yvonne Bennetti, Doris de Pont and Kate Sylvester.

TOMS LAUNCHES CLOTHING LINE

Best known for its ‘one-for-one’ shoe policy, Australian brand TOMS is partnering with & Other Stories for a clothing line. Similar to the shoe programme, when customers purchase from the new collection they will be giving something to someone in need. In this instance, it’s one month of English language classes through Magic Bus Women’s Scholarship Fund. The collection is due to release in Spring.

SEE US at the International Sourcing Expo, 15-17th November 2016, Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre

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CAPSULE COLLECTION FOR YEAR OF ROOSTER

Iconic Australian brand, R.M. Williams has designed its first capsule collection for Chinese New Year 2017. The small leather goods capsule collection has been designed specifically for the Chinese zodiac calendar to celebrate the Year of the Rooster.

The limited edition is designed in red kangaroo leather with a gold-foil stamped rooster and gold hardware to complement the zodiac sign and is all handcrafted at the workshop in Adelaide.

DYNAMIC MOVEMENT FOR ANY ENVIRONMENT

Adidas Originals has worked in collaboration with Satomi Nakamura, expert Japanese pattern cutter with a highlyrevered fashion background over 26 years using an open source approach to concept and craft XBYO. Nakamura’s Japanese ethos towards craft translates thoughts and feelings behind design into meticulous three dimensional garments.

The intention was to create clothes that enable dynamic movement for any environment while remaining aesthetically pure and simplistic. First appearing on the Adidas Italia shoe that was designed for the Olympics back in 1960, the prominent X motif functioned originally as a heel cage before becoming an iconic mark for the brand with three stripes. The X was used on one of the first garments back in 2001, shortly after Originals started. Its re-emergence marks a starting point and celebration of Adidas Originals past, putting the X in a new, progressive context to reflect its distinctive DNA.

H&M TO OPEN IN CHRISTCHURCH One of the world’s largest fashion retailers H&M, known for offering high fashion and quality basics at affordable prices in a sustainable way, has announced its expansion into the South Island with the opening of a store at The Crossing, Christchurch CBD. The store is set to open this year and more

information to be provided prior to opening.

H&M entered the New Zealand market in 2016 with the opening of its first store at Sylvia Park Centre, Auckland. Through its stores H&M offers a broad product range including the latest trends, and inspiration for customers to create a personal style.

THE CUTTING EDGE OF GISBORNE

Entries are now open for the inaugural Cutting Edge Wearable Art Show. “We are excited to be bringing a new event to town. We’ve revived and recreated it to really open it up to everyone. We want people of all ages to push the boundaries with this year and use materials that aren’t the norm when it comes to garments,” said Prue Younger, director of the competition this year. Open to all ages, there are seven categories available to enter; Pultron Industrial Innovation, Waste Management Trash Treasure, Poverty Bay A and P Association Farm Art, Business Applications Pulp Fiction, The Gisborne Hearld White Night, Design School Fluro Fantasy, and Plumbing World Top Of The Pops. For more information, visit www.cuttingedgegisborne.co.nz.

Lane Pedersen 62 MODELS

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Lane Pedersen was never scouted for modelling, but simply was just friends with creative people who needed someone in front of the lens. He then signed to KBM in Wellington as talent when he was 18 and started doing some TVC’s. Pedersen moved to Auckland to start university, and it was then he signed with 62 Models and transitioned into modelling. Pedersen studied at both Victoria University and AUT. “Good time management is important; I like to stay busy, so having to run between class and castings suited me fine. Now that I’m overseas, I feel good knowing I have an education behind me.

Not only does it look good on your CV but it doesn’t hurt to have a fallback option,” he explained. Now four years deep into his modelling career, Pedersen is currently working in LA at a fashion house and is signed with Factor Chosen. “The type of look you have impacts where you’ll succeed outside of New Zealand,” he added. Pedersen said although there are more opportunities overseas, he loves how compact the New Zealand industry is. “Some days I’ll travel an hour just for a casting here in LA,” he said.

However, his favourite part of being a model is having an overwhelming archive of Instagram content.

When he first stepped into the modelling world, Pedersen was cast in The Hobbit but said that one of his favourite jobs so far only happened recently. “The global Redken Symposium in Las Vegas just recently was pretty cool, and now I have blue hair!”

He has been featured in the pages of Fucking Young, Off The Rails, High Snobiety, and Acclaim. The 24-year-old is an only child, and both of his parents are snowboard and ski instructors. Pedersen said modelling has taken him “on a journey of confidence”.

“Growing up I looked up to hip hop artists and skateboarders down to common interest. Now I’m inspired by old rock stars and movie stars like Mick Jagger and Steve McQueen and of course, Dylan Rieder,” Pedersen said. Although he is currently living in Los Angeles, Pedersen is returning to New Zealand for a couple of months in May. Soon after, he will be commuting between the two. “I’d love to do a season in Europe, but my dream gig would be anything Saint Laurent,” he said. Initially, Pedersen thought modelling was an ideal opportunity to travel and make money.

Now he models because he gets to affiliate himself with brands he respects and loves. “It allows me to stay an opportunist in all aspects of my life.” Pedersen advises others who want to jump into the modelling world to embrace yourself, style and imperfections and work with them.

FASHION TV LAUNCHES

Fashion Television has launched in Australia and New Zealand delivering fashion content from all over the world to audiences throughout Asia Pacific since 1999.

This launch will allow audiences in the region to access its popular programming 24 hours a day seven days a week. It caters to fashionable and stylish audiences with content covering the very latest fashion, entertainment, lifestyle news and events. Delivering a strong portfolio of original programmes, Australian and New Zealand’s designers, stylists and models are also featured in the channel’s schedule. The channel will debut with fashion-packed reality competition Design Genius Season 2 showcasing up-and-coming designer Jack Leeson from Melbourne and Australian-Vietnamese designer Tung Fu. Top Australian talent agency Vivien Models, who shares the spotlight with the fashion industry’s best, will be featured on Agencies Season 2.

RISE OF THE CONSCIOUS CONSUMER

Three out of four Kiwis are likely to pay more for organic, sustainable and ethically produced products than they were in 2015, with Fairtrade and the Eco Store recognised as leading sustainable brands in New Zealand. Highlighting the Kiwis passion for sustainability and ethics, 83 percent of respondents surveyed in Colmar Brunton’s Better Futures Report 2016 stated they would stop buying a company’s products if they heard about them being irresponsible or unethical, and 72 percent said it’s important for them to work for a company that is socially and environmentally responsible.

The upward trend in sustainable consumerism is reflective of rising concerns about the origin of food and other products as well as a desire for easier access to information about the working conditions

of farmers and workers in developing countries.

While environmental concerns continue to grow in 2016, the report also highlights that social issues are occupying the minds of Kiwis. Over 60 percent rate industry and innovations being very important to creating a better future for our planet.

NAKED TO MERGE WITH BENDON

Naked Brand Group, an innovative intimate fashion and lifestyle brand, has announced that they have proposed a merger in a LOI (Letter Of Intent) to Bendon. In this, it stated that; Bendon would have immediate access to their US capital markets enabling it to further grow the business globally, the Naked Brand Group would be able to leverage Bendon’s well-established global wholesale and retail distribution channels, the merge would capitalise on the industry-leading expertise of Carole Hochman (Naked’s CEO) to strengthen its global intimate apparel and sleepwear brand portfolio, and the two companies would integrate their supply chain management and administrative functions.

“We are extremely excited about the potential of this proposed merger, and look forward to capitalising on Bendon’s scale and expertise to further expand the Naked brands,” said Hochman. “The Bendon team has built a phenomenal business, and by leveraging their infrastructure, product and geographic knowledge, and talent, we believe that we can accelerate our growth in the innerwear fashion and lifestyle market.”

info@briarwood.co.nz 09 361 2172

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UNIQUE NEW FORMULA

A new formula for hot and swollen feet has arrived from Manuka Doctor. The ApiNourish Foot & Heel cream was designed specifically to deliver feet ad heels with intense hydration. It is also packed with several powerful natural ingredients such as UMF 18+ Manuka Honey, Avocado Oil, Beeswax and Shea Butter.

The new cream is available now online and at selected Farmers, pharmacies and department stores nationwide.

ICON PARTNERS WITH BEAUTY BRAND

Famed singer and fashion icon Gwen Stefani is joining the Revlon family as the newest Global Brand Ambassador.

Stefani, a three-time Grammy Award winning singer, songwriter and fashion designer will be representing the trend-setting beauty brand in global campaigns beginning this year, featuring Revlon’s empowering Choose Love message. “We are thrilled that Gwen Stefani will be representing Revlon as a Global Brand Ambassador,” said Revlon President and CEO Fabian Garcia. “Gwen is a modern-day icon, a Grammy-winning artist, a trendsetter, an entrepreneur and loving mother. The versatility of these accomplishments demonstrates her message of female empowerment, one that strongly resonates across generations of fans.”

NZ BANS MICROBEADS

The New Zealand government has announced it will ban make-up and beauty products that contain spherical plastic beads, or microbeads, out of concern about their impact on waterways and marine life. These tiny plastic particles can usually be found in face washes, body scrubs, sunscreens, toothpaste and acne treatment products, where they are used as exfoliating agents. Due to their small size, microbeads are not filtered out in treatment plants and, once they escape into rivers and oceans, they cause longterm damage to aquatic animals. In announcing the ban, Environment Minister Nick Smith said he had been disappointed to find several products containing beads still available in NZ supermarkets. Other countries have already moved to ban microplastics from cosmetics, including the UK which will enforce a ban from the end of this year. “Banning microbeads in personal care products is a great step forward that will remove one source of microplastics entering the oceans,” said Dr Sally Gaw of the Department of Chemistry, University of Canterbury. “Further steps will be required to reduce the enormous volume of plastics entering our oceans each year. We need to re-evaluate our love affair with plastic, and get smarter about how and when we use plastic if we are to protect our oceans.”

NEW BEAUTY RANGES BY MAKEUP MASTERS

The heart and soul of MAC Cosmetics comes alive backstage at 34 fashion weeks every year throughout the world. MAC prides itself on discovering and nurturing new talent and working with industry leaders who innovate iconic beauty styles. This month, they have teamed up with three makeup artist masters, Diane Kendal, James Kaliardos, and Kabuki, to create three ranges that reflect each artist’s signature style. Kabuki flew into Auckland to showcase his range in a master class for MAC makeup artists.

TANZEE Tanzee is the incredible bed slip that keeps bed sheets pristine and spotless, free of staining from spray tans, body moisturisers and oils. Its innovative slip design makes it easy to slide into a bed with a built-in pillowcase and fold over to protect the duvet.

Manufactured from fine quality, breathable microfibre fabric, Tanzee is lightweight and soft as silk, easy to wash, and won’t cause any streaked tans. For added convenience, each slip comes with an attached pouch that allows the Tanzee to fold back into itself for easy storage or for bringing along on holiday trips and sleepovers.

The innovative product was created by 24-year-old Madison Rapa from Victoria, Australia. A passionately creative entrepreneur, Rapa admits she began drawing up mini business plans for make-believe fashion labels at the age of 12. She spent most of her youth designing clothes and eventually began creating her own

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jewellery, which she sold to local shops. Her affinity for style extended to the aesthetics of her surroundings and confesses to an obsession for keeping her sheets immaculately white.

“The idea for the Tanzee occurred to me after inadvertently leaving difficult to wash-out spray tan stains on my bed one morning,” said Rapa. “I thought there had to be a product out there that would prevent this from happening. We all go to bed often with fake tan, body moisturisers and natural oils that end up on the sheets. But to my surprise there wasn’t anything in the market. That’s how I decided to create my own solution to this common problem.”

Tanzee was designed to fit the person not the bed, in three sizes, regular, large and double (which fits two people and comes with two pillow case inserts). The Tanzees are available at www.tanzee.com.au in black and silver as well as limited-edition colours of gold, cotton candy, bubble-gum blue and blueberry dreams.

The collection also features sleep masks and separate pillow cases.

MENSWEAR FAIRYTALE

Twenty-four-year-old designer Alejandro Gomez Palomo is making fairy tales come true with his new line Palomo Spain.

Founded less than a year ago, the debut collection named Orlando was based on Virginia Woolf’s novelistic take on the Shakespearean gender-fluid character. The collection featured tracksuits in jewel tones with peplums and bishop sleeves, poet shirts in robin’s egg blue and tear-away denim flares.

“I feel that boys need to discover different ways to wear clothes that we haven’t been able to wear up until now,” said Palomo to Vogue. Despite his collections made for men, women are still buying up large on the Pepto pink velvet flares or the fuchsia sequined jumpsuit.

PARISIAN X LIBERTY

SHIRTS FOR THE FASHION-FORWARD

The latest collection from Parisian and Liberty brings together two histories from opposite ends of the globe, linking Parisian’s four-generation passion for crafting men’s accessories in New Zealand, with the world’s most famous fabric studio. Based in London’s bohemian Soho, the Liberty Design Studio creates more than 120 new prints and patterns annually. Parisan’s Auckland studio cherry picks a selection of designs with scale and colour palettes most adapted to its accessory pieces. The Parisian x Liberty Collection is all printed on Liberty’s acclaimed tana lawn cotton. Constructed from long staple fibres sourced in Egypt, woven into a compact fine and strong cloth with a beautiful smooth surface, it perfectly renders every intricate detail and intensity of colour. Previous collections have incorporated both classic archival Liberty designs and seasonal features. However, AW17 features 12 designs, all from the latest seasonal collection, Garden of Temptation. A celebration of ripening fruits, freshly harvested vegetables, rich indulgences and decadent delicacies – the initial aesthetic of the fabric looks and feels like a rich Renaissance fairy tale meal, a celebration of the abundance of the earth that conversely holds hidden unexpected elements that speak of a surrealist dark humour and a twisted charm. Alongside ties, bow ties and pocket squares, Parisian is also introducing braces.

Lichfield showed significant and steady growth throughout 2016 meeting the needs and desires of the customer due to retail recognising the profitability of stocking the right product. The advantages of family ownership and two generations on board has kept Lichfield moving in the desired direction. With a 100-year history of shirts in Australasia, Lichfield is a well-known company with many well-respected and proven brands.

The new Liberty prints have proved to be a success in the marketplace as have Portobello Road casuals. A great, new, refreshed range of patterns for Vonnella with an upgrade of the fabric handle, cumulating in fifty years of proven product.

Building on the ‘something old, something new’ philosophy has been a tradition of on-going excellence for the business. Business shirts have new presentation to complement the much-improved production from newer factories and Lichfield continues to strive to get better fabrics for the consumer, whilst maintaining good retail margins for the retailer.

While Savile Row continues to be an industry leader, LFD is finding a ready acceptance in the sharper, fashion-forward focussed consumer. For the Summer 17 collection a lot of focus has gone into design, retail price, styling and fabrics but also colouration as it is important both the retailer and Lichfield continue to uphold the colours and styles that don’t kill your profit. Geoff (0272 625 627) and Mitch (027 212 7944) look forward to presenting the new range to retailers in March 2017. For more information contact 0800 33 33 69.

SNOOZE WORTHY FASHION

Designer Rick Owen proved that some trends are just out of this world crazy at his own epony-mous global fashion brand’s Paris Fashion Week show, showcasing a truly diverse range of fabrics and textures. Men may not take this one to the streets, but the sleeping bags attached to puffa jackets that took to the runway recently could have advantages, possibly at a festival? This trend is certainly for those who are into camping and bold fashion statements.

MCCARTNEY CELEBRATES NEW RANGE

Following fifteen years in the womenswear industry, designer Stella McCartney has launched a menswear range. “The starting point of the collection is the man who’s always inspired the Stella woman,” McCartney said. “He has been standing alongside her since the start and now is the time he has his moment.”

The sustainable menswear collection was inspired by British music and British culture. “I looked at my dad’s wardrobe, and how I felt they were expressing themselves in that period. I looked at the ‘90s rave, Britpop. This collection launches our 100 percent sustainable viscose, which is something we’ve been working on for two years. It took a lot of investment of time and money and we’re really proud of that. It comes from sustainable forests in Germany and Sweden, so it’s not harmful in any way.”

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DEBUT LINE FOR TINIE

One of Britain’s bestdressed men, and hiphop artist, Tinie Tempah certainly does have an eye for fashion prompting his debut menswear line, What We Wear. From the collection shown at London Men’s Fashion Week in January, Tempah has taken a sporty approach for the athleisureobsessed men. A palette of navy, black, grey and white featured throughout tracksuits, sweatshirts, and boxy t-shirts.

“When you go to the fashion shows, a lot of the models walking down the catwalk are wearing these extravagant pieces,” said Tempah to GQ. “But I’ll see the model in Shoreditch two weeks later and they’ll be wearing something more like this. So, I decided, “Why don’t we actually make something we would actually wear?”

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WILDE COLLECTION FOR MCQUEEN

Alexander McQueen’s AW17 collection celebrates the London gentleman channelling an element of writer Oscar Wilde complete with dandy-style velvet appliqués and a three-piece flannel suit.

The collection was shot by Ethan James Green and also featured embroided golden peacocks onto a ceremonial cape, and a wonderfully Wildean printed silk robe.

OUTPERFORMING WOMENSWEAR According to Euromonitor’s latest research, menswear is expected to outperform womenswear globally by 2020. “When it comes to jeans, men in the UK traditionally bought into long-lasting quality rather than value fast fashion, but the strong growth of ‘economy jeans’ sees men also being influenced by fast changing trends and the desire for a variety of style-led value jeans,” said Bernadette Kissane, apparel and footwear analyst at Euromonitor International. “Ripped knees, coloured denim and skinny fit styles led to a much larger variety

of styles of jeans for men than was previously seen.” She added that until now, men have felt neglected in the shopping process adding to the stresses associated with buying clothing and grooming products. “Retailers and brands have now begun investing heavily in creating an engaging, enjoyable store experience for men. The media also paid a great deal of attention to menswear, as there was an overall lifestyle trend of men showing increasing concern over their appearance and taking more control over their personal style.”

Vlad Tichen MENSWEAR STYLIST

WHITE SNEAKERS White sneakers are so bad-ass, ‘cause ladies love ‘em, they’re so vulnerable, and because every drunk at a bar wants to step on them. They teach you how to take a good care of things and how to defend what’s yours.

They are your spiritual guide in this shaky world.

As for the fashion industry insider tips, I have only two words for you. ‘Easy’ and ‘safe’. That’s what white sneakers are for any retailer. Easy and safe. Those are magical words for all the parties involved in the process; from buying to merchandising to selling the product.

You see, a perfect pair of white sneakers is essential

to every man’s wardrobe. It is the spine of every casual outfit and the last resort when he’s in doubt about what to wear on his feet. It doesn’t really matter what he’s wearing; worn-out jeans and a t-shirt or taped trousers and a band-collar shirt. It’s hard to think of an outfit that would look bad when paired with these two white devils.

Now before you stock up, it might be a good idea to try out a few styles. Just close your eyes, take a deep breath, and simply imagine how these white sneakers would look with a slim cut contemporary suit. You know, the one with a shorter jacket and narrower trousers, a-la Hedi Slimane’s Dior. Now open your eyes and tell me what you think. Does it look like a good match? If the answer is ‘yes’, then move to the next imaginary outfit.

Now, what’s the furthest look away from the suit? That’s right, a pair of shorts and a tee! What about now? Still looking good? Then you’re good to go!

Obviously, not a lot of people would wear both of these looks, but we are not aiming to dress everyone like this (haha, silly dreams!), we’re simply testing the ground. So, if your sneakers have past the trial, you’re pretty much sorted. Just buy the stock, merchandise it properly and wait. Easy money.

There are only few little things I wanted to mention. Whether you are an experienced menswear retailer or just a dude who’s trying to fill up the blank spot in his wardrobe, there are a couple of rules you’d need to follow when selecting a perfect white sneaker.

1. Naturally, the colour has to be white.

There might be some slight colour variations (say, ivory would do), but generally the whiter you go the better. And it has to be solid white. Try to avoid the styles with different colours presented, whether it’s green stripes or blue shoe laces.

2. Simplicity is the key.

Which means: no excessive features, no big logos, and no experimental designs. Essentially, you would want to get rid of all the fluff: zippers, holes, spikes, skulls, Swarovski crystals… I know, it pains me even to think about that. I LOVE my sneakers with Swarovski crystals, and golden chains, and blinking lights inside the sole. Alas, we all have to make sacrifices. In the end of the day we are all professionals here, exchanging industry insight, right? And this is a respectable editorial. So yeah, no crystals, please.

3. Versatile shape.

Beware that it will not be easy to find one. See, there are so many variations of this iconic shoe out there, so many crazy designers with questionable taste, so many wild and sometimes just bad ideas, that it might become a real mission to find or create (if you produce your own footwear) a perfect sneaker. But has to be done. For people rely on us. All you need is a bare, ascetic silhouette: low cut, round toe, shoe laces, and that’s that.

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MOST EXPENSIVE SHOWER SHOE?

Sliding into the new year has never been easier thanks to Kenzo’s Massage Patent Slide Sandal. Otherwise known as an overpriced shower shoe, the French fashion house has put the slides on sale allowing customers to pick up the slides for half the original price of US$400.

ROOTING FOR VOLLEY

A Christian lobby group has voiced concern over Australian footwear company Volley’s new campaign. Lobby director, Wendy Francis took to Twitter to express her disgust at the campaign saying that parents should be aware that Dunlop Volley still sells shoes for school kids but their website has nothing but R rated images and are “all about rooting”. The images feature nudity, tennis racquets wrapped in condoms and samesex models being intimate that fall in line with the company’s slogan about Aussies, “rooting for us”. Although copping a lot of flak online, Francis’ statements have gone viral, sparking the photographer behind the campaign, Marisa Taschike to add, “Big shout out to Volley Australia’s number one fan Wendy Francis and the Australian Christian Lobby. You’ve helped spread the message behind grassroots. Your ignorance and hate has helped educate more Australian’s about safe sex”.

FANCY FOOTWORK

Three ballerinas from the New York City Ballet have teamed up with Cole Haan for a range of comfy chic shoes. Following a threeyear partnership with the footwear brand, the NYCB worked with Cole Haan design team to perfect the look and feel of the StudioGrand collection. The range was designed with a busy, active woman in mind, offering her an assortment of chic shoes and includes three sneaker styles, one of which features a toggle in place of laces, and one packable ballet flat. All of the shoes are lightweight, flexible and cushioned in all the right places.

IT’S IN THE BRAND’S DNA

Boston-based New Balance Athletics has released the 247 Sport. Designed with the modern urban lifestyle in mind, classic New Balance quality and craftsmanship is fused with modern performance-inspired details for a contemporary new style.

Although the range has a new look, feel and fit, it remains grounded in the brand’s DNA drawing inspiration from iconic New Balance models.

“The 247 Sports pack is a nod to the brand’s innovation and performance running product,” said Brian Lynn, senior product manager global lifestyle.

“The style is ideal for those consumers that want to make a stylish statement on their daily commute.”

ACCESSORIES FOR BALMAIN LOUIS VUITTON X SUPREME

After months of rumours about a collaboration between Louis Vuitton and skater-wear brand Supreme, it has been confirmed after being debuted at Paris Fashion Week. The Louis Vuitton Fall ’17 men’s show showcased the ready-towear and accessories collaboration with Supreme and it included a wide range of sneakers. Retro runners from the ‘90s saw a revival and were made using Louis Vuitton’s signature Epi leathers and luxurious alligator leathers featuring the iconic Supreme red colourway.

12 I February 2017

Balmain has launched of a debut handbag and footwear collection.

Designer Olivier Rousteing decided to create the accessories line as he wanted a new challenge and to push his ability in 2017.

“We have different bags and shoes that are not as expensive for people that might love the Balmain world, but do not have the money for the couture aspect,” said Rousteing. The creative designer also pointed out that a lot of people forget about accessories as they don’t consider collections a ‘business’ however it is an essential part of his ‘silhouette aesthetically’. “Menswear is 40 percent of my business. But sometimes people forget that accessories is not only a business. I think accessories is a discussion that you have with yourself.”

GIUSEPPE FOR ZAYN

FENDI GETS FURRY

After seasons filled with minimalism and simplicity, Fendi gave the footwear industry a boost following its Milan Fashion week’s show. The Italian label’s collection was filled with colour and interesting textures. Specialty of the house, fur, appeared on the uppers of slides, styled with socks. If nothing else, it added an injection of humour to the show reminding people that fashion doesn’t have to be serious.

Footwear brand Giuseppe Zanotti has announced an exclusive collaboration with singer-songwriter Zayn Malik. “I really believe style comes from taking chances, being bold and not being afraid to express yourself,” said Malik. “I feel Giuseppe does that with his collections and I try to do that with my music. So, when the idea came up to collaborate, I thought ‘yes, this would work.” The collection, aptly dubbed Giuseppe for Zayn, features two boot options, in addition to two sneaker styles, in shades of green and black. As well as an embossed logo plate, the footwear comes in rich suedes and supple leathers.

NAZI BOOTS RECALLED

South California shoe company Conal International Trading Inc has recalled a model of military-style work boots after a customer complained that the footprint of the boot leaves swastika stamps. It was brought to the company’s attention following a customer posting a picture of the tread online that clearly showed the swastika imprints.

Conal International Trading has recalled the Polar Fox boots and stopped selling them. “We are extremely sorry for the frustration this has caused our customers and the public,” the company said in a statement.

“We would like to issue our sincerest apologies to our customers and to anyone who was offended by the Swastika imprint that the boots left behind. The design was not intentional and was a mistake made by our manufacturers in China. We will be investigating the issue.”

Chelsea Simpson TECHNICAL DESIGNER AND PRODUCTION ASSISTANT AT ARE YOU AM I

After winning the green card lottery, Chelsea Simpson jumped at the opportunity to further her experience in the fashion industry. Before this, Simpson wore many hats at Stolen Girlfriends Club as their production manager, graphic designer, textile designer and social media coordinator.

It was this contrast and variety of jobs available at Stolen Girlfriends Club that she loved. During her time there, Simpson learned not to take life so seriously and that, when things are out of control, it is best to focus on resolving issues rather than fixating on them.

Born and raised in the Gold Coast, Simpson studied Applied Fashion Design and Technology but originally wanted to be an Environmental Scientist. Her obsession with fashion started straight out of high school with a collection of No magazines.

She moved to New Zealand in 2012 but has now relocated to Los Angeles where she works

for Are You Am I as their technical designer and production assistant.

The brand’s name is an acronym for the creative director’s name, Rumi Neely. Neely previously ran a cult-followed blog called Fashion Toast. Simpson finds herself returning to romantic ‘90s nostalgia and said the brand’s ideal customer is Bella Hadid.

Simpson said one the strongest trends she’s seen so far was the choker.

Working at Are You Am I has shown Simpson just how much impact social media can have on sales. Simpson works closely with Neely and the design team on developing new styles every week. Since starting with the brand, Simpson has rebranded their digital design presence and customer experience.

Her next career goal is to work for an haute couture brand and eventually start her own design and production agency.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 13

SMART-ASS JEANS

COMBATING FAKE GOODS

Facing constant allegations of being a platform for the proliferation of counterfeit goods, Chinese e-commerce giant Alibaba Group Holding Ltd has partnered with several international brands, including Louis Vuitton to form the Big Data Anti-Counterfeiting Alliance. According to Alibaba, the goal of the new 20-member alliance is to keep the e-commerce company’s platforms free of counterfeit goods.

“The most powerful weapon against counterfeiting today is data analytics and the only way we can win this war is to unite,” said Alibaba’s chief platform officer Jessie Zheng in a statement.

“With our robust data capabilities, we are confident the alliance will accelerate the digital transformation in our global fight against counterfeits.”

Italian company Spinali Design has debuted its new Essential smart jeans that integrate GPS technology so you don’t have to look at your phone if you’re following turnby-turn directions. The jeans connect to your smartphone via Bluetooth with builtin vibrating modules indicating if you’re supposed to turn left or right when you’re at an intersection. This means the wearer doesn’t have to be holding their phone in their hand, saving battery life and making it look like they know exactly where they going. A little buzz in the left or right pocket guides you around the streets of the city. It will also let you know if you get a text or a call. Although they aren’t rechargeable, the jeans have enough life to guide the wearer around once a week for four years. The jeans are priced between US$76-110, costing no more than a usual pair of skinnies.

Spinali Design has been working on tech garments for years and the jeans come after

a swimsuit that tells you when you need to reapply your SPF and a dress that illuminates should you get a call or text.

AIRBNB FOR HIGH-END FASHION

Consumers who use the costper-wear theory to justify a purchase can now rejoice following the launch of a new cost-per-rent business. Dubbed the Airbnb of high-end fashion, VillageLuxe allows women to borrow designer clothing, shoes and accessories directly from other women. The inviteonly app, which lets women quite literally walk a mile in someone else’s shoes, has over 12,000 women on the waitlist.

VILLAGELUXE FOUNDER JULIA GUDISH KRIEGER

@_dion_lee

14 I February 2017

@knuefermann

VERIFYING GOODS ONLINE With a dramatic increase in high-fashion resale, 20-year-old marketplace Ebay has announced the launch of a new authentication programme, that will allow sellers to opt in to have their goods verified. This latest move is aimed to boost consumer trust as well as increasing the prices sellers can charge. “We know that many shoppers may be hesitant to purchase high-end products online,” said Laura Chambers, VP of eBay consumer selling. “This service is designed to help quell some of those concerns, and in turn, enhance the opportunity for our sellers to get top dollar for their items.”

Sellers can opt in to use the programme

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for a fee when listing their products.

When the item sells, it will be first sent to a professional authenticator to pass inspection before being forwarded to the buyer. If the item should fail inspection, eBay will refund the buyer double the cost of the item price. The authentication process will be performed by a network of professionals and not done in-house.

The seller can choose to use the service for themselves should the seller not opt in. “This programme simply helps our buyers have more confidence on the great, authentic inventory that we have on the site, and enables our sellers to benefit from that confidence.”

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There’s no doubt about it, Click & Collect is huge!

The vast majority of customers visit the digital flagship store as part of their path to purchase, whether that’s in-store or online. With the increasing awareness and focus that retailers have put on delivering the “Omnichannel” promise over the last few years, eStar is starting to see early adoption initiatives, tried and tested, begin to settle into mature solutions.

One of these is Click & Collect, which, as the name suggests (and everyone knows!), allows customers to order online and pick their goods up in store, at a time and location of their convenience.

In Australasia, Click & Collect is growing, for example Harvey Norman claim Click & Collect is over 50% of online, when The Warehouse launched Click & Collect 2 years ago, it went to 10% in the first week, and is now over 30% of online sales.

Click & Collect is growing due to:

• Customers like it and expect it as an option.

• Ease of pickup from a store with

parking and good opening hours.

• Enables immediate purchase and ease of finding key items, freeing up customers’ time when they visit the store.

• Home delivery often leads to “card to call” experiences with pick-up from a postal or courier location in less convenient locations.

• Companies beginning to put a stop to shopping deliveries at work.

• The majority of Click & Collect orders are picked up a few days after ordering, as the key part is the convenience of collection.

• Enables short lead-time order to pickup, some retailers, like Country Road, offer 4-hour pickup.

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More importantly, it drives significant benefits for retailers such as: • Customers visit the store. Creating an opportunity to meet a known customer in store with cross-sell opportunities from their known orders.

• Reduces freight costs.

• Utilises existing stock in store (if picked from there).

• Engages the store teams into omnichannel – they see real customers using online and visiting their stores.

• Utilises store staff for picking orders – this is often costless as is done at off-peak times of the day in-store.

• Reduces packaging time and costs for online orders.

• Can be used as a pre-cursor for stores doing store fulfilment for online. eStar has experience in implementing different models of Click & Collect. This includes the provision of “Collect In store” prompts on the front-end website, which allow the customer to choose a suitable location to collect their order from, as well as the ability to nominate a pickup person other than the customer.

Click & Collect can be implemented in many ways. Like store fulfilment there is a tendency to make it overly-complex for fear of disappointing customers.

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apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 15

Sheer Delight

Alberta Ferretti Resene Blue Diamond

Alberta Ferretti’s SS17 show was bold and sexy, while barely revealing any skin. Ferretti showed a collection of floaty and unstructured garments, made up of sheer layers which flowed from the body. A typically feminine designer, Ferretti’s collection was a vision of elegance apropos to Mediterranean summer. A hint of masculinity was revealed through the multiple belts, which were used throughout the collection to cinch in the soft dresses and skirts. The palette consisted of turquoise, red, black and accents of purple, similar to Resene Blue Diamond. An unusual approach to summer colour, the combination of rich, deep hues blended well to create a fine, luxurious summer look.

Jungle fever took hold of Balmain at the SS17 show in Paris, as Olivier Rousteing’s creations paraded through a set of tropical leaves. This season’s Balmain woman

16 I February 2017

Balmain Resene Beethoven

Summer fabrics are floaty, light, and decidedly revealing. Sheer fabrics have taken over fashion, from high street to the runway, and are perfect for the warmer seasons.

Valentino Resene Chill Out

was softer than Rousteing’s usually unashamedly powerdressed female, with more layers, more draping and more mystery. The show had a clear structure, with a colour palette slowly unfurling like a tropical flower, while the reserved designs gave way to more creatively cut garments which flaunted more skin in style emblematic of Rousteing. Opening the show were sheer jersey fabrics which were draped over bustiers, giving the designs an air of unusual modesty. The palette began with khakis and browns, close to Resene Beethoven, but expanded to a variety of bold colours, which evoked a tropical rainforest (complete with snakeskin embellishments).

Valentino presented a vision of romanticism, with soft, feminine detailing and vintage-inspired silhouettes.

Helmed by Pierpaolo Piccioli, the Italian house returned to traditional handcrafting methods instead of using

Rodarte Resene Double Alabaster

digital prints on fabrics. The collection featured several gauzy, sheer maxi dresses, embellished with delicate embroidered details. Colours were soft, with an infusion of light red, which energised the collection and, when combined with soft pink, brought a fresh feel to the reserved cuts. Piccioli adorned a beautiful, sheer maxi dress in white with soft velvet in a cut-out motif, in a colour similar to Resene Chill Out. Layers of lace, sheer ruffles, and a sense of delicacy and elegance were paramount at Rodarte’s SS17 show.

Starting from a refined palette of ivory, black and white, similar to Resene Double Alabaster; the collection combined impeccable tailoring and effortless femininity.

Gossamery, sheer fabrics with exquisite detailing were layered and ruffled, which created the girlish aesthetic, and light, voluminous silhouettes. The collection

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Blumarine Resene Ballerina

segued into a lavender and gold tinted palette, with flashes of metallic. A stand-out red dress featured puffed statement sleeves and was crafted from sheer fabric layered under the metallic red leaf.

Blumarine’s SS17 collection had a distinctly vintage feel, as creative director Anna Molinari played with floral prints, broderie anglaise and 1950’s inspired shapes.

Sheer fabrics featured in a variety of dresses; some barelythere with relaxed cuts, some voluminous with bold gingham prints, and some embellished and reminiscent of Dior’s 1949 beaded Junon gowns. The colour palette was established as decidedly neutral, consisting of whites and browns; but became more light-hearted as the show progressed, ending on a hue similar to Resene Ballerina.

Sarah Burton’s vision of Scottish-inspired fashion was a contrast to that of Alexander McQueen’s tortured

Alexander McQueen Resene Cut Glass

Giamba Resene Cosmos

portrayal of the country. Burton presented dresses made from intricate Shetland lace, accessorised with leather belts and studded boots. The collection featured tailored suiting and bodices, mixing feminine and masculine influences. Maxi length dresses, accentuated with puffed sleeves lent themselves to a vintage aesthetic, like a long sheer dress in a colour akin to Resene Cut Glass.

The sheer layers of fabric added to the other-worldly feel and gave a modern touch to the figure shrouding maxi dresses.

Giambattista Valli’s SS17 collection for his junior line, Giamba, was a youthful, whimsical party; resplendent with sequins and applique. The young feel is especially observable through their relaxed cuts; which included bomber jackets, denim jackets, and girly ruffles, and through the bright prints which emblazoned the

Anna Sui Resene Aviator

collection, and sheer fabrics. The palette reflected the youthful approach with soft colours paired with black and red accents. A particular sheer mini shirtdress in a hue similar to Resene Cosmos featured a cat print and a contrasting collar which was a perfect continuation of the youthful essence.

1950’s inspired kitsch ruled the runway at Anna Sui’s SS17 show. The collection was equal parts cowboy Americana, and prairie housewife, with a splash of cheerleader-inspired lettering. Silky fabrics mixed with sheer fabrics to create sleek garments with barely-there detailing. Intricate floral prints were used throughout the collection, which had an unusually dark palette for summer; navy like Resene Aviator, red, and black were predominantly used, although patches of blue and red were shown towards the end of the collection.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 17

Chinatown, LA

ARE YOU AM I Meili Skirt

PHOTOGRAPHER: Caitlan Mitchell STYLIST: Chelsea Simpson MODEL: Leslie Bembinster at 10MGMT Shot in Chinatown, Los Angeles.

18 I February 2017

STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB Cropped Biker jacket ARE YOU AM I Slip Dress in Black

ARE YOU AM I Nyissa Dress in Red YVES SAINT LAURENT Chelsea 40 Wyatt Boot in Black Leather

LESLIE BEMBINSTER 10MGMT

ARE YOU AM I Tiiu Top in White CUE Eyelet Leather Belt STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB Leather Pants YVES SAINT LAURENT Chelsea 40 Wyatt Boot in Black Leather

Leslie Bembinster frequently gets asked how she got into modelling because of her science background. It all started with a fascination for storytelling through motion and rhythm. It was something Bembinster learned from studying dance and music for over 20 years. “There was always something seemingly static quiescence of a photograph hanging on a wall that magnetised me,” she said. Bembinster’s love of French cinema and the history of photography eventually led her to pick up the camera herself, and she began to construct scenes. Now as a model, Bembinster said there is an endless combination of biological and synthetic design in the narration, and for her, this is a fascinating exploration of being human. Her boyfriend was one of the first people to photograph her; she, later on, became more comfortable with being photographed by others. Bembinster did a few modelling jobs here and there; then one fashion photographer set up a meeting between her and her current agency 10MGMT in 2014.

Her mother was a woman who was always on the go and who consistently introduced Bembinster to new things. “Up until she passed away from breast cancer when I was 15, she was at every dance performance, a piano competition, or chess tournament as my number one cheerleader. They are the reason that I have scattered across all fields from science to art and turned me into the Renaissance woman I am today,” she explained. Bembinster also choreographed and danced in a Maps & Atlases music video called “Living Decorations” and also a promo for their second album “Beware and Be Grateful”. She has also been featured in several magazines, her favourite being an editorial for Schon! Magazine last year.

Her passion for science started as a curiosity as a child. She had many science kits from making her own chewing gum to using small-scale chemistry sets. After high school, she completed her Bachelor of Science degree in Molecular & Cellular Biology with Minors in French and Chemistry at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. Now she has four publications spanning in the fields of neurobiology and breast cancer.

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I 19

Catherine Clift PRODUCTION MANAGER AT INGRID STARNES

Creating a good environment to work in helps on the hard days.

Ingrid Starnes has really achieved that.

20 I February 2017

The second youngest of six kids, Catherine Clift said everything was shared, and her older siblings were a huge influence on her clothes as they chose them. It was the same story for music and other hobbies.

Clift grew up in Browns Bay in Auckland said that it was always very busy and never quiet, but never boring and there was always plenty of company. Clift has begun to notice a trail of creative industries running in the family.

“My uncle is an artist, my eldest sister was very creative and indie for her age group, I loved going into her room and finding little trinkets she would let me keep, she’s now a theatre lighting technician.

I also would always discover paintings or sketches done by my Grandma tucked in books around her house she would never admit it, but they are really amazing,” she explained. Watching her mother sew was always an interest of Clift’s, she made a lot of their clothing. “I have never been so terrified than the day I messed with her overlocker tension; I guess I wanted to know what that was all about.”

During her soft materials class in high school, she became enchanted by the ability to transform a piece of flat fabric into a wearable 3D garment; it was this that lead her to Massey. She attended Massey University where she studied a Bachelor in Design majoring in Fashion. “My desire to move out of Auckland and the family home to grow some independence steered me to Wellington.”

Ingrid Starnes has a small team behind it, meaning Clift is involved in many aspects of the brand. Every day is different; some days she is prepping production runs, pattern making and grading, delivering to cutters, machinist, pressers, or stock to stores.

Clift also contacts wholesale clients, packing and dispatching. “Some days I’m doing all at once. It keeps me busy, and it’s the style of work I thrive on,” she added. Clift believes that having great relationships with your staff and contractors can make a huge difference. “Creating a good environment to work in helps on the hard days.

Ingrid Starnes has really achieved that.”

Before joining the Ingrid Starnes team, Clift first

stepped into the industry as a cutter for State of Grace, and after 18 months, she went on an OE teaching English and ended up travelling for two years. When Clift eventually came home, she was lucky to land a contract job with a costume studio for a film. The workroom manager there knew Ingrid Starnes and sent her along to cover a six-month job, and they decided to keep her on. “I must have done something right!”

Her favourite part of being the Production Manager at Ingrid Starnes is the end product.

“Finishing a run of garments on time, with no mishaps and they can happen no matter how diligent you are. It’s like finishing a race, massive relief and feelings of achievement,” said Clift.

She also loves sampling season, while it is a very busy and stressful two months for the team, Clift loves to be involved in the design process. “There are also plenty of chocolate, tears and giggles,” she added.

Even though design isn’t Clift’s strongest attribute, she has learnt to voice her opinion and ideas as everyone’s is appreciated in the team.

Her primary input now is how a garment will cross over to production; especially if it’s hard to make, the time consumption, and trim availability. While some garments are okay to make one or two of for sampling, when they move into larger units some designs just don’t work out. Clift is interested in seeing what offshore production is like, dealing with units in the thousands, but said she might find it hard to move on from supporting a made in New Zealand brand. “It makes working at Ingrid’s extra special, I know every person who has touched the fabric to get it to the final product,” she said.

With more consumers becoming more aware of sustainable and organic fashion, Clift said it’s great to see more and more people interested in the life line of their garments. “This was something we covered day and night at university, but it didn’t quite seem to translate into the world.”

When Clift first joined the brand, she started as a workroom assistant where Starnes would cover a lot of the tasks herself. As Clift slowly took on more responsibility, this enabled Starnes to put more focus on being a designer and owner. “The business has grown rapidly in the last year, and I like to think I have contributed to this,” she said.

Her biggest inspirations are her parents, they both worked hard to keep their family safe and healthy.

“We weren’t wealthy, and there were definitely times of struggle, but we went to school with shoes on our feet and food in our bags. I feel very lucky to have a family that loves and respects each other.”

Clift’s ultimate life dream is to fly in space. “No jokes, I want to see the earth as a ball.”

TIMOTHY GODBOLD Timothy Godbold grew up in a small town in Western Australia called Kalamunda, which is Aboriginal for “home in the hills”. His family is originally from Britain but arrived in Australia before World War II. He had a fortunate childhood and recalled his first experience with fashion. “I was having a suit made for a wedding when I was eight. I spent a great deal of time selecting the fabric and colours, probably more so than your average eight-year-old.

So, I guess the writing was on the wall,” he explained. Soon after Godbold began to obsess over owning the space uniform from 1999 which was designed by famed German designer, Rudi Gernrich.

At 11-years-old, Godbold was in a school play and found a military jacket in the drama room closet and instantly fell in love with it. “This would be the beginning of my love affair with military uniforms,” he added.

Godbold’s grandmother was a seamstress and was apt at making clothes; his mother loves to tell him that this is where he got the gene. His grandfathers and great-grandfathers had fought in the world wars, their stories and the romance of war was often discussed over Sunday dinners.

He first started designing and making his own clothes when he was 12. “I taught myself to sew and make patterns out of taping newspapers together on my mother’s dining room table. I ended up making clothes for the club kids and earning a salary at 14.”

David Bowie, Depeche Mode, Duran Duran were just a few of Godbold’s heroes. He was deeply inspired

by New Wave music and the fashion in the music videos. “In fact, Nick Rhodes gave me a beautiful quote in the book about military style,” Godbold said.

When he was 20-years-old, Godbold finished fashion school and moved to London desperate to conquer the world. Most of the people around him moved to Sydney, but he wanted to live in America but didn’t have a visa.

He said it was easier to go to England where he had hereditary access. Godbold’s fascination with America stemmed from films and his very chic aunt who spent her life living in New York. “I found her fascinating as a child and very glamorous,” he said.

In London, Godbold worked for Ralph Lauren for six and half years before he was transferred to New York where he ended up on the women’s design team. “I always thought I would be a menswear designer, but I guess fate had other ideas,” he said.

Godbold said he had a wonderful experience before Zara changed the dynamic of the industry. “It was quite romantic and very glamorous working at Ralph. Unfortunately or fortunately, fashion in its nature

changes and not always for the best,” said Godbold.

To stop himself from being old and jaded, Godbold decided to side step and looked into other avenues around design. He became passionate about interior design and moved to the Hamptons in 2012. People warned him about how slow and boring winter was in the Hamptons so he thought it was the perfect time to write a book and that’s exactly what he did.

Godbold wrote “Military Style Invades Fashion” as a voyeur of fashion which he can enjoy on a different level. When the concept of his book first came around, he was excited because he knew it was fresh and had not been done before. It started with an image of Lord Albert Victor (the son of Queen Victoria) in full military uniform, and a beautiful collection of furniture out of Los Angeles by Stephen Kenn made from Army surplus cloth and leather straps.

Godbold said it was daunting creating this book, but extremely gratifying now that it is finally published. “I love the imagery in the book, and each chapter explores a different aspect of Military.”

Fascinated with Scandinavian aesthetic, you can find Godbold travelling there when he isn’t designing.

Last summer, Godbold had the good fortune of visiting Stockholm, Copenhagen and Berlin.

He highly recommends all three of them to visit for galleries, museums, art, and beautiful people. “Especially in Stockholm where I always manage to find great new labels to buy and come home with a new wardrobe every trip!”

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 21

KASANDRA RATTRIE Southern Institute of Technology (SIT)

From the small town of Waiuku to the heart of the country’s capital, Southern Institute of Technology (SIT) graduate Kasandra Rattrie is making her way in the world, one fashion show at a time.

Rattrie moved to Invercargill and graduated from SIT’s Bachelor of Fashion in 2015, she then travelled the country making her mark on various fashion

shows before landing in Wellington where she has found her niche.

Having won the Charles Parson’s Awards for both Top Design Student and Top Production Student as well as the Sewingtime Award for Academic Excellence, Rattrie was selected as one of two wardrobe interns for the 2016 World of Wearable Arts in Wellington.

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22 I February 2017

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“I was in the wardrobe team, which meant dressing all of the models, taking care of the garments and looking after the entries. It’s become such a huge show, the standards are really high.

It was quite intense but such a great experience,” Rattrie explained. After the successful venture, Rattrie joined Space Between, a new green business model developed by Massey University’s School of Design which addresses issues of waste in the industry while developing students’ entrepreneurial capabilities.

Working as a designer, Rattrie said the green focus of the business model suited her perfectly, as she plans to start her own eco-friendly label. “I really want to be part of the green eco revolution.

My label will be made from used fabrics, so I would be upcycling rather than the fast-fashion you generally see in shops. At SIT we were given such a good education about the impacts fashion can have on the environment. Once you’re aware of the issue, you just want to help out,” she said.

While a planned trip to travel the world on a working holiday may mean it’s some time before her dreams come to fruition, Rattrie explained that New Zealand can expect to see an eco-friendly fashion label which could change the way we wear our clothes.

“I’ll always come back to New Zealand, I’m proud to be a New Zealander and this is where I’ll make my label.”

HOLLEY HOGAN SEWTEC When Holley Hogan was 11-years-old, her mother owned a salon. Her mother would do alterations, so she has a sewing room with all her machines and a closet full of offcuts from fabric. “I used to spend all day in there playing with the fabric and the sewing machines. I always brought my fashion stencils with me to her house as well, and I would spend hours creating different looks,” Hogan said. Now 19-years-old, Hogan has been competitively swimming for the past eight years and still going strong. She gets up at 4:30 am six mornings a week training for two hours; then she would go to Sewtec and then go back to the pools to train or coach at night.

In 2016, Hogan attended a garment construction course and pattern making course at Sewtec. She said she had learned so much from Sewtec, from re-learning how to sew on industrial machines to how to make and manipulate patterns. “The most valuable thing in my eyes that I have learned is that your seam work, cutting, and measurements need to be precise

for anything you make to fit right,” she explained.

Her 2016 collection Ocean Dreams was inspired by her love of water.

During the pattern making course, they were taught how to make clothing, not swimwear, and this made pursuing swimwear a step way out of Hogan’s comfort zone.

Hogan chose these designs with adjustability on her mind. “I want whoever wears my togs to be comfortable and feel good,” she added.

Choosing fabrics that reflected back to the ocean with bright corals and hues of blue, Hogan also made several overgarments that she wanted to have a very loose comfortable fit. In terms of the fabric, she needed material that had longevity, one that could last hours in a highly chlorinated pool, the surf, sun and sand.

During the construction process, Hogan tends to unpick her garments over and over because she knows the stitching could be straighter or the seams could be better. “It’s satisfying

to be able to sew little pieces of fabric together to see a final product which in my eyes is pretty exciting,” said Hogan.

Sewtec has taught her to say yes to every opportunity, and now Hogan is designing three garments for a client who showcased them as a finalist at Miss Supermodel South Pacific. The same garments were also featured on Miss Fiji in the Fiji Times.

Hogan is currently looking into selling her garments online, however, is waiting for the demand to be high enough to pay for the online store.

Social media such as Instagram and Facebook are huge factors in gaining sales for Hogan. She is now looking to start her career in the swimwear business where she will definitely be developing and manufacturing designs this year for her next collection.

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I 23

SHANNEN YOUNG Massey University Fashion was something that was always on Shannen Young’s mind.

Young and her sister would spend a lot of their time drawing designs when they were younger. She began to seriously think about pursuing fashion after her textiles class in high school.

Rei Kawakubo’s work for Comme des Garçon was a turning point for Young and heavily inspired her to start designing.

The fashion graduate is interested in exploring alternative pattern making cutting and methods, deconstruction aesthetic and the concept of anti-fashion. Her graduate collection,

24 I February 2017

Allusion Illusion, is a reflection of her research into these aesthetics and ideas paired with the process of different pattern making techniques.

Young found the critiques at Massey were an important part of critical reflection. A highlight of her newest collection is an asymmetric shirt. “It was a quick experiment to see if my pattern method would actually work.

It ended up being the base for a lot of my other garments and helped define the silhouettes of the collection,” she added. Allusion Illusion explores fashion Orientalism and looks at differences between dresses from the eastern and western worlds.

By using alternative pattern making, Young would deconstruct traditional western garment and beauty ideals.

“Flatness is a concept that inspired the cut of the garments. Almost all of the garments can be laid completely flat.

In contrast to the 2D silhouettes, I designed 3D visual illusion prints.”

Young was honoured to be awarded two awards for her collection; the

Walker Sotech Award for Technical Innovation and Harry’s Commercial Design Award.

Young believes that not knowing how to sew limits your designs, as sewing is an important part of the design process. Her biggest challenge is creating designs that set her apart from other designers.

Although she is not currently selling

any of her designs, several boutiques have approached her to stock them in the future.

This year, Young is continuing work on other personal projects and next year she hopes to move overseas to jump into the international fashion industry.

ROBYN BATS Massey University Twenty-three-year-old Robyn Bats recently completed her final year at Massey studying fashion design.

Originally from Horowhenua, Bats moved to Wellington in 2013 to begin her studies. Ever since she can remember, she has always been fascinated with colour, textures and materials. “It was in sewing class at school when I truly realised that fashion design was something I really wanted to pursue,” she explained. Bats believes she got her creative side from her Grandmother, who is a stylish woman with an incredible eye for design and art.

Inspired by the likes of Rick Owens and Alexander McQueen, Bats looks up to artists who use performance to give their clothing an immediate narrative. She also loves the highly sophisticated methods of design that are used in their collection.

Bats said she had learned so many valuable lessons while studying at Massey, one being to take risks and to push herself. “I did my best work when I felt like I was out of my depth and well outside my comfort zone. Even if the risk doesn’t pay off you learn so much during the process, which in itself is invaluable,” she added.

Her latest collection Body Slip celebrates the female form and questions the notion that female nudity must be either shameful or sexualised. Throughout this collection, Bats has applied prints of the nude female body to the drape of the garments. “Subverting the relationship between body and clothing and

encouraging the body to slip from its boundaries,” said Bats. As most of her collection is draped, she needed to spend a lot of time choosing the right fabrics to complement her minimalistic designs. Bats’ favourite garment is the Peach Twist Dress. This particular garment challenged Bats in more ways than one could imagine, but said it was well worth the perseverance as it is an absolutely beautiful piece. Bats was honoured to receive the Charles Parsons Technical Excellence Award for her Body Slip collection. She said it was really special to be recognised for what she had created considering the high level of design work from her peers. “Pattern making through drape was such an important process so to know I had done this well

meant a lot to me,” she added.

Bats said the biggest shift in fashion she has seen is the use of technology; from product development to manufacturing to online shopping. “If you want to stay relevant in the fashion world you have to keep up with the growth of technology.”

Her long-term goal is to start her own store, but first, she must work in a few areas within the industry to figure out where her strengths lie and find out what she loves. Then she can put everything she has learned together and apply it to creating a successful business.

Bats is getting married at the end of February and is then moving to Dubai with her partner to begin her fashion career.

Olivia Balle and Kristen Meaclem Photograph by Megan Alexander

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I 25

GABRIELLE POLLAK AUT

www.op.ac.nz/fashion Dunedin – Auckland

*As ranked by Business of Fashion businessoffashion.com/education/ rankings/2016

26 I February 2017

NZFW 2016. Designer: JPalm. Model: Simone at Clyne. Photographer: Gabrielle Devereux

New Zealand’s Top Fashion Degree*

J02709

Gabrielle Pollak’s interest in fashion bloomed in her fabric technology class in high school. She has been making clothing and costumes for her friends and family ever since. “I am particularly interested in textiles especially knitwear with a focus on sustainable materials,” Pollak said.

After high school, Pollak spent a

year working in London where she completed an introduction to fashion at Central Saint Martins and this is what inspired her to continue her studies in fashion. She returned to study a BA in Fashion Design at AUT with a minor in textiles. During this, she interned and worked as a stylist with several labels.

One of her favourite internships was for Penny Sage in her second year at AUT where she helped the head designer on the Summer 2016 Collection. Another highlight was working with Paris Mitchell; Pollak assisted with styling photoshoots and helped her with her e-commerce store The Mercantile. “I have assisted on a number of big campaign shoots with her, including a four-day shoot for New Zealand sustainable brand Kowtow,” she added.

These experiences helped Pollak style her own collection’s photoshoot as well as gaining general design experience.

“I also got a unique look into a small business and how it operates including the day-to-day demands. Penny Sage as

a brand is very committed to be New Zealand designed and made which I really respect,” she explained.

AUT taught Pollak the art of collaboration and how throughout her degree she was able to collaborate with several talented people from industry leaders to fellow peers. “I think the AUT environment is really special.

We are all very hard working and supportive of each other, it was a very collaborative environment where input by others was welcomed,” said Pollak.

The students were proud to see everyone’s final collections at the

Rookie show last year. “Another valuable thing I learned was how to use the knit facilities during my last year at AUT.” Inspired by the concept of nurture, Pollak looked at ideas around children and the narrative of the book The Secret Garden. “My concept links the idea of childhood and the freedom of youth with the role of a child’s carer as the ‘nurturer’.

This connection can be expressed through clothing, as clothing provides physical comfort, warmth and creates sentimental value for the wearer.

Using knitwear in my collection has drawn together a number of different elements; related to warmth, comfort, connection and security,” she said.

It was important that the gesture of the clothing wrapping around the wearer was similar to the affection of a hug. Her favourite piece of this collection was the felted blazer that featured a unique textile. Pollak created the print from a piece of embroidery from a baby blanket and some lace made for her by her grandmother.

The intricate print was a long process which involved printing onto silk, and needle felting it onto yarn. “I then collaborated with a textile artist to embroider over the print. This piece means a lot to me and I really enjoyed the process of making it.”

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MARAL SALMANPOUR Whitecliffe Maral Salmanpour latest collection is about transparency; creating truly ethical fashion that is a reflection of our times. “I believe becoming an educated consumer, and thinking first before buying a cheap fashion is important, because someone, somewhere, is paying with their life,” Salmanpour explained.

The eco-conscious collection is elegant yet driven by strong environmental and ethical sustainable fashion practices. The core of this collection is based on the acknowledgement of having responsibility towards human rights and labour rights in the supply chain. “My collection is symbol of language that is expressing the concept of an ecological fashion brand that has principles of appreciation and references my cultural and traditional skills.” It was this collection that won Apparel Magazine’s Award for Honouring Artisanal Craft at Whitecliffe’s graduate show in 2016.

Salmanpour originally studied art and design in Persia which was typically based on eastern art. Her fascination for fashion has started by

looking at historical garments from Roman and Persian styles.

These involved the use of silk, embroidery, weaving and natural dyes. Whitecliffe has given Salmanpour the opportunity to now incorporate western art into her practice.

A highlight in her new collection is her Aida look which is a hand crocheted top with silk yarn that is dyed with coffee beans.

Paired with silk trousers which were naturally dyed with alkanet root. “By creating this piece, my goal is to preserve these fading domestic and artisanal crafts, that are desirable and also do not come at a cost to the environment. I intend to bring a touch of humanity to fashion. I believe only radical contemporary designs can prevent the extinction of craftsmanship.

My goal is to offer a better choice to consumers and to create meaningful

employment to empower women in community,” she said.

Fabric waste in the fashion industry has created economic issues and most importantly environmental and ethical issues. Salmanpour has implemented a zero-waste policy in her design process and pattern making. She is commited to work with fabric thoughtfully. “Zerowaste has an important role in minimizing the global crisis and has helped me to create a collection that is based on geometric forms that have dynamic form and hang on the body in an unconventional way.”

Inspired by nature, Salmanpour used water as an example explaining how water was one of the most essential resources for her collection. She added that because of the textile industries such as dyeing and finishing, they consume such large amounts of water they have

chemicals overflowing and polluting rivers. In order to resist this ecological condition, Salmanpour has used natural dyes as an alternative to synthetic dye.

Knowing how to sew a garment with various techniques helps Salmanpour to design a timeless piece.

“I believe designing and sewing are both important and invaluable skills to create a valuable piece,” she said.

Particularly for this collection, she wanted to do hand sewing techniques to preserve the artisanal skill in the modern world and to encourage the survival of these skills for future generations.

Her biggest challenge is to reduce the alienation of labour and bring confidence and enjoyment to these contributing artisans. Salmanpour believes this will help prevent their craftsmanship skills from disappearing, but also support them through her fashion. “My ultimate goal is to find a way to combine high fashion with sustainability to draw attention to the moral implications of the fashion industry.”

Moving forward, Salmanpour would be love to work with a company who has the same values that she does about ethical and sustainable fashion.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 27

The Year Ahead:

Retail Trends of 2017

Get a lung-full, folks; that fresh air is the promise of a new year. And while it’s not, let’s be real, exactly a case of so-fresh-andso-clean, there’s still a lot of good in store for the 12 months ahead of us. What exactly?

That’s what we’re here to show you.

3. Shouldering on

6. Ones to watch

In 2016, off-shoulder dresses were top of the list in women’s best performing trends. Along with flounces and Bardot styles, they got consumers warmed up to what’s going to be an even bigger year for sleeve shapes.

Leg ‘o’ mutton, bishop, flared, bell, extra-long, puffed, frill-lined even mameluke, you’d better revise them, so heavily featured as they were on the Spring 2017 runways. This comes as part of a wider trend towards frivolity. The perpetuating ‘80s them will dominate this year (yes, again), minaudière, velvet shoes, extravagant metallic fabrics and embroidered denim.

Call it escapism? Either way, after seasons of body-con followed by cut-outs, these overblown sleeve shapes feel fresh – or at least reference historic shapes from way, way back in the reference books.

This year will be defined by two luxury brands. First up is Gucci, riding the Alessandro Michele led turnaround story of the decade. Items from the label’s Spring collection will be on every one’s hotlist – the logo sweatshirts, flatform shoes, bejewelled specs and ornate bags will sell like hotcakes when they hit stores in a few weeks time.

Will the brand move away from eclectic chic for Fall 2017? Then there’s the hottest ticket in town, Raf Simons, and his new role at the reinvigorated Calvin Klein. Simon’s clean aesthetic has been missed since he departed Dior in the fall of 2015. This new pairing will be fascinating – watch as he shakes up the sporty, all-American image of CK with his own brand of minimalist ingenuity.

7. Pink power Pantone had declared a shade of green called Kale will be 2017’s hottest. We respectfully disagree. Green looks good on about 4 percent of the population. Besides, kale (real kale) is so 2015. Instead, this year in retail will be defined by shades of pink. Sure it’s not a color coming from left field, but it will be the leading commercial palette of the year. From Miami blasts of flamingo to the girlish tones of blush and nude. Solange digs it. Chloé and Chanel endorse it. Topshop will be retailing it.

Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITED These are the nine retail, consumer and product trends that will shape the apparel industry over the next twelve months. Ready? Here goes 2017. Let’s do this.

Retail Trends of 2017 1. Streetwear takeover

This may come as a bit of surprise but this year, sportswear (FKA top dog) is getting knocked from its pedestal by its edgier, less try-hard cousin: streetwear.

We’re talking skate and active brands with limited runs, in-the-know social campaigns and hyper relevant collaborations. Consumers will move on products as fast as the wifi allows and they’ll sell out just as swiftly.

On a product level expect more of those simple, functional garments – the sweaters, hoodies, logo’d tees, denim, bombers and caps – but with a looser silhouette, urban prints and a cooler palette. Swot up because these themes move fast. Bookmark sites like Hypebeast and High Snobiety and keep your eyes trained for movement across Instagram and Snapchat, that’s were it happens.

Brands you should be following this year include Palace, Off White, Supreme, Kith, Brain Dead, Fear of God and Bape. Late last year we wrote about a few important characteristics of streetwear that help it sell so well.

2. Seasonally appropriate Scores of designers have now embraced the instantly shoppable model, and more have switched up their seasons, running closer to the actual weather than the industry’s formerly standard six-month delay. In 2017 the entire industry will be crunching numbers on how well that’s worked and plotting the next move.

Sure, we can see how Tommy Hilfiger sold following the runway show last September. But did those styles get replenished? How will department store representation of these brands change and is there going to be enough newness in the upcoming shows? They’re all the burning questions that will be filling industry press throughout the year. In a retail environment where department store over-discounting has devalued more than a few brands, the shift in seasonality is a great opportunity for brands to regain control by strengthening their direct-to-consumer channels.

28 I February 2017

4. Tribe-defining merchandise In 2016, tour merch practically upstaged the artists selling it. Bieber, Kanye, Beyoncé, Chance, Rihanna and Drake hit the road and brought entire retail stores with them. Tapping directly into millennials’ need to affiliate, or just be ironic. In today’s confusing world, where, despite constant connectivity, isolation and disengagement are rife, consumers trying to define their place within that digital kaleidoscope are wearing their associations, awareness and beliefs right on the chest. It’s that same desire partially responsible for the rise of niche streetwear brands.

In 2017, this will go beyond music and extend into any form of clothing that identifies its wearers’ belonging to any kind of club, ideology or lifestyle. Slogan tees are the obvious win, but expect to see more subcultural references inspiring design on the runways this year.

5. AI revolution It might not look like it does in a sci-fi movie, but AI is here. Retailers are already using it and using it well.

In 2017, we’ll see the breach widen between those that do and those that don’t. In 2017, it’s all about making shopping personal and frictionless. Do that for time-poor consumers and the rest will sort itself out.

With the aid of helpful chatbots in SMS and messenger apps, or by suggesting looks based on customers’ shopping history, social profiles and interests retailers are able to tailor the shopping experience, which should now not only feel seamless but insightful and inspiring. Cosabella go one step further and use AI to make decisions on how their site looks and flows in realtime, to optimise traffic conversion.

8. Service industry meets fashion By now we should all get it: consumers buy mobile first. If your product isn’t easy to buy on a handheld device, you’re going to miss out on sales. In 2017, we need to move a few steps forward. Consumers are spending less on apparel and more on experience and tech, so retailers need to find ways to bridge that divide, and mobile offers that opportunity.

What services around fashion and apparel could be offered with UberEats style apps? Returns, designer rentals, dry cleaning, repairs and styling could benefit from some Silicon Valley attention in 2017.

9. Reassessing sustainability Mass market fashion has spent the last ten years getting faster and cheaper. Meanwhile, newer retailers like Reformation and Everlane are educating consumers on the journey and true cost of their products, as well as the damage prevented through ethical creation. Conscious groups of consumers are growing in number and 2017 will be the year when every retailer should question how they’re going to fulfill the opposing pressures of newness and sustainability. Is the answer in recycling or recycled materials? Can it be found in season agnostic, multi-purpose apparel? And is there really a space for mass market retailers to enter this game? The next twelve months need to present some of the answers, if not all.

BACK IT UP Backpacks have come a long way since their ‘90s university student heydey.

High-end designers have embraced the style, creating new season backpacks, which have been seen on a myriad of street style stars and fashion influencers.

The look is nonchalant and youthful, with less importance placed on practicality than their forebearers.

Current backpack styling has diverted into two main camps; minimalist and chic and embellished and eye-catching. The minimalist styling comes in leather, often with gold zips or discrete closures. The style is straightforward and structured, in a typical backpack shape with a rounded top. Alternatively, designs have a drawstring top, with a shape similar to a bucket bag.

Available mainly in black, or other dark colours, or a soft blush hue for summer.

At the other end of the spectrum, maximalist designers have created eye-catching backpacks in a wide variety of styles. The most popular styles include vibrantly coloured faux fur, metallic finishes, bright patterns and prints, and embellishment. These unmissable styles are more varied in design than their minimalist counterparts, available with multiple pockets, and a variety of strap thicknesses.

Both minimalist- and maximalist-style backpacks are popular in two sizes. The original backpack size is style on-trend, as well as miniature versions, often designed with long, thin straps to wear low slung across the back.

Backpack prices vary widely and are dependent on quality, and material. Leather backpacks from highend designers are priced at a higher price point, while high street brands are priced at a low price. Although their main popularity is as a women’s accessory, backpacks are also popular for men.

Men’s backpacks are more practical and are mainly available in canvas with larger sizes and thicker straps.

These backpacks are typically more plain, although subtle prints and dark colours are on-trend. The men’s look is utilitarian, and often with a hint of military styling, like practical buckles, and multiple pockets.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 29

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