$ 9.00
March 2014 Vol 47 no 2
www.apparelmagazine.co.nz
pg 4 News
The Coincidental pg 20 Company Profile
Tourist Collection pg 18
9
The Age of Consumer Control
12 14 16
Student Profile
Behind the business
pg 22 Apparel Edits
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Colour Trending
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Your businesses are as varied as our students . . .
. . . let us help you make the best match through work experience and employment options.
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Editor’s letter April will be a big month on fashion’s event calendar with two of the biggest shows in New Zealand being held. iD Dunedin Fashion Week will see international guest Martin Grant on the judging panel for the 15th anniversary of the iD International Emerging Designer Award Show. Wellington Fashion Week will also be held in April. The windy city will be home to many New Zealand designers that are showing their in-season collections to the public as well as a trade show for retailers, buyers and selected media which will show the SS14/15 collections. If you are a Wellington retailer you can attend the event for free, by registering at the Wellington Fashion Week website. The introduction of our Apparel Buyers Lounge has been very well received with retailers and buyers registered to view forward season collections. It’s not too late if you are a retail buyer, register for free now at www. apparelbuyerslounge.com.
Sarah
sarah@reviewmags.com
On the cover: Esther from Nova Models, see p18
OUT ABOUT
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Hello Exhibition at Silo Park. Photos supplied by New Zealand Fashion Museum.
Below Amber Whitecliffe store opening in Parnell. Photographs by Kalana Dayaratne.
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Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Chris Wilkinson, Anya Anderson, Katie Smith, Corinne Blumsky, Thomas Fowler Shawna Mobasheri - shawna@reviewmags.com Felicity-Anne Flack - felicity@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com
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NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2014 NZ Apparel Magazine.
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NEWS KATHRYN WILSON STORE OPENING
New Zealand’s leading women’s footwear designer, with fans including Beyoncé, Kathryn Wilson opened her second store in Auckland’s Herne Bay. The new store highlights Wilson’s unparalleled success, proving that she is at the top of her game. Wilson’s three brands Kathryn Wilson, Miss Wilson and Little Miss Wilson have made her a household name. In recognition of Wilson’s success, Massey University is presenting her with the Massey University Distinguished Young Alumni Award for her outstanding achievement.
START-UP TARGETS THEFT
eyedentify Connected. Protected.
New start up company Eyedentify is working with police to crack down on retail crime. April will see a new trial of the web-based initiative that allows retail shop assistants to enter details of an individual that has shoplifted in their store. The online entry form requires CCTV or photo evidence of the offender in the act and asks shop assistants to fill in details like location of their store, time/day of the offence and a description of the person. This system will cost retailers $49 a month for access, allowing them to view offenders in the
area, descriptions, photo identification of the offender, cost of stolen goods and frequency of offending. They will also know of any accomplices or associates to the offender. For the retail community this is an affordable system that brings retailers together to combat the two million dollar a day loss suffered through retail theft. With the form taking 5-10 minutes to fill out, shop assistants are able to go back to the shop floor quicker. A log-in for retailers will mean that the information stays within the industry and for companies with more than one store, notes and actions taken can be communicated between stores and head-office easily. The Police are using Eyedentify for intelligence purposes and they are alerted to new incidents that are uploaded to Eyedentify. Retailers may also be authorised to officially report a crime to the Police through the platform.
SOCK MAKERS TAKE NEW INITIATIVES
SARAH-JESSICA PARKER FOR NORDSTROM
SJP unveiled her debut footwear collection after major buzz over the last few weeks. The collection is in collaboration with American department store giant, Nordstrom. Despite being hush about the designs, Parker said “This vision felt like a mere dream five weeks ago, it only gets better. It’s so freaking good!” Nordstrom will exclusively carry the line.
New Zealand sock manufacturers, SOCKMAKERS have introduced new technology into its Fenix plus range of merino sportswear socks. Wanting to produce a range of socks that were specific to each individual sport, based on the ‘movement of individual sports’, the company uses the concept of F5S, the Fit Five System. This incorporates five simple designs, knit constructions and materials to make up the base of each individual product. The system produces a shape that moulds to your specific foot type and holds the sock in positions reducing friction and movement within the shoe. Other advantages of its range are that socks are a left and right orientated foot, a colour marker for easy matching, seamless toe and easy care materials. A new men’s fashion sock is soon to be launched in May that features a seamless toe and easy fit top, to expand and fit without restriction. ‘The Sock’ is also only 36 grams a pair so it is almost like a second skin. SOCKMAKERS Ltd is still 100% New Zealand owned and they manufacture all their goods in New Zealand.
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News CHARLES PARSONS INTRODUCE PRONTA MODA COLLECTION
This year textile industry leader, Charles Parsons, introduced its new textile range Pronta Moda or Ready Fashion. Essentially it is an in-season summer mini collection that is mostly made up of print and novelty fabrics. The collection offers smaller, more flexible minimum quantities so customers can buy with low risk or investment. Its main summer collection supports this Pronta Moda range by way of plain solid dyed cloths, silks, soft dressings, jacquards and linens. The Pronta Moda high summer colours are suitable for party and occasion. “This Pronta Moda range came about as customers change their delivery schedules. Summer is a longer season and is often looked on now as Spring and Summer, or Summer and trans-seasonal, meaning more than one drop for summer,” general manager, Brendon Austin comments. “Many customers are dropping capsules several times a year to keep product fresh in store. So simply having two large ranges a year (summer and winter) was a bit limiting and we have added this small Pronta Moda capsule in for summer.” Despite not having a Pronta Moda range for winter as it is a shorter season and doesn’t warrant a second capsule, Charles Parsons will continue to develop new fabric all year round and target sell where appropriate.
NIKE FOOTBALL BOOTS GAME CHANGING
Unveiled in Spain recently, the Magista Football boot from Nike builds on the brand’s history of groundbreaking innovation in performance footwear, the radical new boot is redefining the concept of how football boots look and perform. CEO and president of Nike, Mark Parker comments that the company’s aim “has always been to meet the athlete’s particular performance demands and amplify his unique set of skills. Magista inherits that transformative history of design and innovation and supercharges it”.
Tailor made freight solutions from runway to runway
• Customer Service / Order Tracking • Freight Forwarding – Import / Export • Customs Brokerage • Consultancy
• Transport • Warehousing / Distribution • Pick & Pack / Order Fulfilment • Apparel Solutions
Merz & Associates (1992) Ltd
P.O. Box 1167, Shortland Street, Auckland 1140, New Zealand Phone +64 9 255 1330 Fax +64 9 255 1331
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news VANS’ YELLOW SUBMARINE FOOTWEAR CAPSULE March has seen the collaboration between two icons, Vans and The Beatles to release a collection of footwear showcasing the unique artwork from the legendary Yellow Submarine album and film. A first of its kind, the collaboration offers artwork and colours taken directly from the album cover that are highlighted in four original Vans Classics. The first ever Beatles footwear capsule is featured on Vans Classics dating back to 1966. Original high top silhouette and the Sk8-Hi Reissue, kicks off the assortment with alternating artwork on each quarter panel hosting individual portraits of the Fab Four from the film. The Classic Slip-On presents a fun take
on the Sea of Monsters by showcasing continued underwater scene across each pair of Slip-On’s when viewed from left to right. This year marks the 50th anniversary of The Beatles groundbreaking first appearance on The Ed Sullivan Show. To commemorate the occasion, The Recording Academy, AEG Ehrlich Ventures and CBS presented “The Night That Changed America: A GRAMMY Salute To The Beatles” in February which featured today’s top artists, covering songs performed by the Fab Four. The Beatles Yellow Submarine by Vans is an exciting collection that will highlight the group’s global influence on music, art and pop culture.
TRADITIONAL DESIGNS AT FALVÉ
Husband and wife team, Dan and Emma Johnstone, are looking to expand their funky menswear brand Falvé. Now in its fifth collection, Falvé continues to develop the traditional tailoring they are known for with an emphasis on construction and detail. Emma handmade the first collection herself and the patterns are handcrafted using traditional tailoring methods and all cloth is hand cut. The brand now has four stockists in New Zealand and is looking to develop their Auckland presence. For wholesale enquiries email Emma at info@falve.co.nz.
Full CMT Service Providing end to end solutions for sampling and production • Pattern Grading • Cutting • Making • Finishing • Pressing • Ticketing
Providing quality for 25 years Your label at the centre of our business
Call us today on 09 444 9010 or email us at
enquiries@kerilinfashions.co.nz for our introductory offer www.kerilinfashions.co.nz
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News MARTIN GRANT TO SHOW AT iD FASHION WEEK
World-renowned Australian designer Martin Grant has announced that he will show at iD Dunedin Fashion Week’s 15th anniversary show in April. Grant, who is based in Paris, has dressed everyone from Cate Blanchett and Cameron Diaz, to Kate Hudson and Queen Rania of Jordan will show his latest Spring Summer Collection at the event, which is inspired by Russian ballet dancers and 1930’s swimwear. Grant states that he is looking forward to coming to New Zealand saying “Even after 25 years of living in Paris, I still have very strong ties with the Antipodes, and never having had the chance to visit New Zealand, I thought this was the perfect opportunity…New Zealand has a strong fashion history and I am looking forward to discovering its new generation”. The prestigious Australian designer will show alongside some of New Zealand’s top design talent, including WORLD, NOM*d, Company of Strangers, Charmaine Reveley, DADA Vintage, Mild-Red, Tanya Carlson and Tamsin Cooper. Grant will also be a judge for the 10th annual iD International Emerging Designer Awards. The anticipation of an international designer showing at iD brings an air of excitement to the event, says iD Dunedin Fashion Week chair Susie Staley. ”Martin Grant is a name synonymous with style, grace and elegance and we are thrilled to have him as part of our 15th anniversary celebrations…iD crowds will be given an opportunity to see the latest fashion coming out of the Northern Hemisphere, placing iD firmly on the international fashion event calendar.”
NZ’S TOP RETAILERS CROWNED
Customer satisfaction is of paramount importance in this highly competitive retail category, a core defence against the rise of international online-only stores. In 2013, New Zealanders spent over $5.87 billion online. Store retailers need to offer things not available on the web, and chief amongst these is personal service, a key factor in customer satisfaction, recommendation and loyalty. Throughout 2013, Roy Morgan Research surveyed over 12,000 consumers across New Zealand. The winners of Roy Morgan Customer Satisfaction Awards are those that managed to build and maintain a customer focus in a tough marketplace and outdo their industry competitors. The Department Store category saw a neck-and-neck race between two iconic Kiwi brands, Ballantynes and Kirkcaldie & Stains. But in the end, Ballantynes was able to end Kirkcaldie & Stains two-year run atop the satisfaction rankings, winning for the first time in 2013.
In the past year, New Zealanders have spent over $610 million on online fashion. The intense competition in fashion retail is reflected in the close race for customer satisfaction. In 2012, Hallenstiens and Jeans West tied for first place with four monthly wins each. But last year Hallensteins edged out its rival for the first nine straight months to shore up the 2013 title outright of Clothing Store of the Year. Satisfy employees and they’ll satisfy your customers! Hannahs and secondplacing Overland both have a strong online presence combined with dozens of stores across the country catering to both men and women. Hannahs took out the Shoe Store of the Year for 2013. Roy Morgan Research was set up in New Zealand in the 1990s and has been collecting information across a wide range of industries in New Zealand ever since.
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the
Yohji Yamamoto
“Extreme luxury is very much in demand, and it is the right time to make couture more visible.” — Christine Chapellu, general manager of Jean Paul Gaultier.
Celine
“For me, couture is the kingdom of imagination, creativity and experimentation, and this is how I approach it. I do, however, remain pragmatic and realistic.” — Giorgio Armani
trendwatch
Stay connected to the fashion industry 24/7 with NZ Apparel online.
Alexander McQueen
connect
“Our agents are committed to combating the criminal enterprises selling counterfeit products which undermine our economy and take jobs away from Americans. No good comes from counterfeiting American products regardless of whether they are jerseys, air bags or pharmaceuticals.” — ICE acting director John Sandweg on the recent seize of #21.6M in fake NFL merchandise.
window
Co.Label
ONLINE BOUTIQUE
Hit: Free delivery for orders to New Zealand with a minimal spend. Categories are clearly listed in separate tabs. Newest designers featured on homepage. Miss: Brand selection is small. Limited casual wear range.
Hit: Wide variety of brands. Low cost flat-rate shipping. Reasonable sale prices. 30 day returns and money back guaranteed. Miss: Ineffective use of white space, content clumped together in middle of home page. More product images needed.
White Fox Boutique
Hit: Affordable range of clothing with free postage for orders over $99 to NZ and Australia. Miss: Items are not effectively categorized by style. User interface is plain and font used is very small.
Recruitment • Warehousing/Logistics • Storage/Distribution • Cartage/Transport Reworks (Offsite/Onsite) • Imports/Exports • Labelling/Stickering Logistics Contracts • Assembling/Packaging • Recycling/Product Sorting
onesolution
47 Allens Rd, East Tamaki, Auckland. P.O. Box 217 206, Botany Junction, Auckland 2164. Ph: 09 272 4700, Fax: 09 272 4699, Email: office@apparelsolutions.co.nz www.apparelsolutions.co.nz
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Behind the business
The age of consumer control In the past, consumers would often chose who they shopped with based on the information that businesses put into the public sphere. Now, word of mouth has become an extremely powerful, and sometimes damaging, tool. Welcome to the new world of consumer control. Your customers have a voice and social media gives them a platform to talk about anything they want, to virtually whoever they want. And that includes talking about you. Even though this has been happening for a few years, businesses are becoming more aware of the fact and starting to take measures to adjust to this new world. Although social media has been impacting our lives for some time, and many businesses are monitoring social media to keep an eye on what customers are saying about them, we’re now seeing more companies proactively join the conversation. “Just watching and responding to social media comments places retailers in reputation recovery mode. It’s encouraging to see them now taking it a step further,” explains Mat Wylie, Director of Customer Radar, who offer real-time customer feedback dashboards that deliver valuable insights. “By giving customers a direct channel for feedback and actively getting into the conversation, retailers are able to act on things in the first instance - not letting it get to the point of damage control.” “Traditionally, your marketing team had the voice and your brand and reputation was about whatever you put out there… You were on the megaphone. Now though, each and every customer is holding the megaphone, which is scary for many retailers,” says Mat. Addressing those fears can be the best way to overcome any difficulties that may arise from social media. There’s another finding coming from this trend also. Not surprisingly, retailers and other businesses that are opening themselves up to feedback are the ones that are most successfully growing, as they are able to adapt to what their customers need and want. “It’s like a fence at the top of the social media cliff,” laughs Mat.
Look to the future: What is likely to happen with customer experience in 2014…
Thanks to the increased value being placed on customer voice, and the insights this can deliver to businesses, Mat predicts we’ll see more retailers actively looking to provide a direct line of contact for customers. This line, he warns, will need to be a short one, with customers only choosing to offer feedback in a convenient way.
“Surveys are getting shorter, respecting people’s limited time and attention, and textbased feedback and QR codes are gaining in popularity, as technologies that provide an easy way for customers to give feedback,” says Mat, who also adds this word of caution. “If it’s not easy, you’ll end up with a skew to your insights. If providing feedback requires any real effort, you’re likely to only get responses from highly motivated consumers - those who are either raving fans, or the irate ones who strongly feel they have something to gripe about.”
Online and on site Over the past few years, most businesses have been pushed to enter the online arena in some way or another. While many bricks and mortar stores have gone digital, there are some that just don’t work in an online format. “For businesses that can’t operate in clicks, the ecommerce landscape can pose a threat. In order to survive, those retailers are realising that they need to offer more… We’re finding that the ‘more’ tends to focus around the experiential things that consumers can’t get from a website,” explains Mat. Providing a fantastic customer experience, an experience that consumers don’t receive online, is certainly one way of ensuring the survival of a retailer. The way to achieve provision of great service? Listening to your customers and discovering their needs and desires.
Consider complaints Mat predicts that customers will continue to speak out more and more, but at the same time, we’re unlikely to see them constantly attempting to take down innocent companies. “Most people aren’t out to hurt the businesses that they patron,” consoles Mat. “In fact, 99.9% of the feedback seen through our tool represents caring comments, from people who genuinely want to help the retailers they frequent.” In most cases, dealing with complaints and having their thoughts listened to and addressed will keep customers happier than having a mediocre experience and not giving feedback. Consumers are people too, and they just want to be heard. The easier it is for customers
“Although social media has been impacting our lives for some time, and many businesses are monitoring social media to keep an eye on what customers are saying about them, we’re now seeing more companies proactively join the conversation.” to give their opinions and have straightforward communication with businesses, the more likely they are to find those customers being selective about what they share on social media. Now really is the time for customer experience and the businesses that will thrive are the ones that actively seek ways to listen to their customers and address their concerns and suggestions. With that in mind, businesses can only go from strength to strength!
Mat Wylie
Founder/CEO of Customer Radar mat@dynamite.co.nz or 09 376 5000
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Behind the business
Apparel 21 is fashionware. ERP solutions for the fashion industry that improve your business performance.
• Planning/OTB • Manufacturing • Purchasing • Shipments • Wholesale • Retail • CRM • Replenishment • Point of Sale • Online Sales • Financials • Reporting and Analysis • Product Lifecycle Management
Phone: +61 3 8415 9300 Email: info@Apparel21.com www.Apparel21.com
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Behind the business
10 hottest trends from Fall 2014 fluff up accessories, from muffs to stoles and even hairy shoes. But the real statement pieces lay in the vibrant and shaggy lamb fur sweaters at Balmain and the numerous patchworked fur coats – see Marni, Chloé, Saint Laurent, Aquilano. Rimondi, Diane Von Furstenburg and Thakoon. 7. Detail: Turtle Neck Roll deep this winter: the turtle neck is back. In lightweight pieces forming the building blocks of layering, or in chunkily knitted sweaters, this trend plays into both the textured and functional trend as well as the retro revisit, making it a seasonal winner. Not currently well represented by retailers, inclusion of this item will mark a range as being very now, come Fall.
And there we have it: after a month of roaming the globe, the AW14 shows have come to a close. There were headlines and shock exits and celebs and blunders and sheer brilliance…but what really struck? Our method for pinpointing the biggest runway hits, revolves around analyzing consumer reaction and commercial data to understand the demand and timing of the new trends shown.
Here, the top 10 represent those items which will make the biggest commercial noise in six months time.
Jil Sander. Turning up the heat a notch, was the vivid orange we’d seen popular in last month’s menswear shows. For women, designers including Giles, House of Holland and Missoni gave the high volume tone backing. And then there were the drinkable tones: the merlot, burgundies, ports and zinfandels – the lot set consumer taste buds alight.
1. Designer of the season Fashion has not lost its drama – Karl Lagerfeld drove that point home with his elaborately staged branded supermarché during Paris fashion week, which earned Chanel the title of the month’s most talkedabout designer. With 26,609 influential online mentions, Chanel beat Marc Jacobs by just 6.6% and Givenchy took third place.
3. Theme: Texture Next season will be defined by surfaces, with a stampede of designers using tactile fabrics creatively. Be it fur, shearling, leather, high shine puffer or feathered finishes, layered texture is the defining trend of Fall 2014 and attracted the most online mentions throughout the month. Think oversized coats, cocooning silhouettes, functional detail and luxe finishes. Not only popular with consumers, retailers will become enamoured with this theme too: it encourages layering (therefore up-selling further items from a range) and will have strong visual impact both in-store and online.
2. The Palette Pastels glided through from SS14 and into AW14 with relative ease, backed by bighitting designers such as Gucci, Chanel, Chloé, Givenchy and
4. Detail: Embellishment Embellishment got seriously visual for Fall 2014, with generous appliqué, power paillettes, heavy duty metalware and over-sized jewels. Motifs
are kitsch, think celestial, regal, tribal or camp. There’s inspiration everywhere, in the metal armour at Chloé, the queenly gems at Erdem, the disco arrows at Carven. This is a light-hearted look which will get snapped up by the youth and trend-led markets. 5. Theme: Retrovision Be gone stuffy vintage! In its place sits the far cooler and less fussy retro as designers in each of the four fashion capitals embraced 60s or 70s or mashed them together to create something very now. Shift dresses, shirt dress, A-line skirts, gently flared trousers and anorak outerwear, these ladies are more mod than boho. Gucci finished the look with a side parting, knee high tan boots and oversized winter shades. 6. Fabric: Fur Is it endurance against the frozen northern hemisphere winters of late, or sign of thawing in the global financial crisis? Whatever motivated the homage to fur, both faux and fo’ real, designers went crazy for the stuff this season and 24,177 consumer mentions during the month echoes the demand. There’s a myriad of options here, with potential to use sparingly in trims on collars and hems. Or
8. Print: Leopard Leopard print peaked, and just when everyone assumed it was done, it’s come hurtling back at full pace. There were sightings of the animal in New York in red, grey and au naturel, then Milan and Paris really brought it home, with Sportmax, Acne, Céline, Chloé, Givenchy and Gucci all racking up notable inclusions. The 7,715 leopard print products currently retailing online can expect to be joined by a whole new pack this winter. 9. Garment: Oversized Outerwear Coats grew. Really big. Designers across fashion month’s calendar decreed it’s go large or go home for outerwear next season. Choose from blown up bombers at Jonathan Saunders, large scaled capes by Paule Ká, voluminous metallic parkas at Preen or gigantic furs at Fendi. 10. Garment: Wide Leg And just as coats grew, so too did legwear. Trouser shapes have become freer, more fluid and more forgiving for Fall 2014. Be they tailored and executed in suiting fabrics at DKNY, pyjama-dressing silkiness from Paul Smith or wide and cropped at 1205, the bottom line is to get wide in the stride. By Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITD EDITD connect fashion, luxury and apparel people with the data they need to make better decisions. www.editd.com/blog apparelmagazine.co.nz
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Behind the business
Fashionable
Reads
Studentprofile
The Teen Vogue Handbook
Miriam Foote from New Zealand Fashion Tech (Auckland) Miriam Foote showed a love for fashion and design at a young age and as soon as she could hold a pencil was drawing clothes for her mother to sew and folding away her clothes to ensure they weren’t mixed in with her brothers. Foote believes that staying true to your vision and having the skills to match makes a quality garment, “if the passion is there, then you’re going to get it right” says Foote. Inspiration for her graduates collection was hard to establish as she had so many ideas, but it soon came to her while browsing in the fabric
store and stumbled across the bird/cherry blossom print chiffon and it was a match made in heaven. Creating a mini collection inspired by a New Zealand designer was the brief and it grew into “a little wardrobe for me if I was living in the 60s,” Foote commented. With just over a year of work experience as a production assistant and NZFT training and qualification, Foote feels as though she is ready to tackle the industry and is “very well prepared to put my head down and work hard to achieve my goal of creating a successful label”.
APPAREL SOLUTIONS READY TO NEGOTIATE
By Teen Vogue A must-read for anyone aspiring to be in the fashion industry, this book is the go to guide on every aspect of the industry; with interviews from fashion legends such as Anna Wintour, Marc Jacobs, Bruce Weber and Pat McGrath to the new generation of industry insiders, including Alexander Wang, the Rodarte sisters and Taylor Tomasi Hill. This book gives you a real life glimpse into the industry and is an essential resource for anyone dreaming of a career in fashion.
Fashion: The ultimate book of costume and style
By Judith Watt Fashion by Judith Watt is a definitive guide on the history of fashion. Spanning over 3,000 years, from the traditional dress in Ancient Egypt and the extravagant gowns of the Rocco era, to the flapper dresses of the 1920’s, to today’s latest fashions straight off the catwalk. Judith Watt covers everything, from styles of dress throughout the ages, profiles on the world’s top designers from Coco Chanel to Alexander McQueen, and fashion icons such as Jackie O. This book is an indispensable guide on the history of fashion.
Kate: The Kate Moss Book Since taking over the business a year ago, Rahul Sirigiri has seen huge growth within Apparel Solutions. Sirigiri has increased staff to 100 and is looking to double that in the next year. With the majority of work completed in-house, efficiency and turnaround for clients has dramatically improved under Sirigiri’s leadership.
A job that previously took two weeks to turnaround now takes 3-4 days; 500-1000 units can be completed in one to two days. The company now offers short and long-term storage as well. Apparel Solutions provides apparel companies with recruitment, warehousing and logistics, garment reworks and labeling options and much more.
ADAPTING BUSINESS STRATEGIES Owner of Kerilin Fashions, Zaid Azeem, has seen many changes to the industry over the years. A year since purchasing the business, Zaid has streamlined systems and processes to adapt to market change and industry requirements. With 25 experienced and highly skilled staff, Zaid believes his company is more of a trusted partner, where designers and brands can discuss options without the need to know CMT processes, leaving them to focus solely on the creative and design side. Many people still believe that offshore is cheaper
and easier, however, supporting the local economy is not the only reason designers and brands should get on the made in New Zealand bandwagon. With today’s fast fashion requests and the increase in speed to market, producing in New Zealand can cut out communication issues and frequency, freight costs and wait time, also minimising faulty or incorrect garments and managing quality control. Kerilin Fashions offers a comprehensive service providing end-to-end solutions for your brand.
By Kate Moss The Kate Moss book is a must-have and capture’s some of Moss’ most iconic fashion moments. Moss has been photographed by some of the world’s leading photographers including Arthur Elgort, Mario Testino, Patrick Demarchelier, Peter Lindbergh and Terry Richardson. Their iconic images capture Moss’s journey from teenage waif to the world’s most famous supermodel. With never-before-seen images from Moss’ own collection, this book offers a unique look at her 30 year career and solidifies Kate Moss as one of the most iconic style icons of our time.
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Studentprofile
NZ Fashion Tech graduate Abby Beaton grew up in Napier, leaving school after the sixth form to pursue a career in fashion.
A keen stylist, Beaton has worked backstage as an assistant at Wellington Fashion Week, Fashion in the Capital and as head dresser at Auckland Fashion Week. Interested in sewing, snow skiing and wake boarding, Beaton says the NZ Fashion Tech course has equipped her with practical industry skills, which have already landed her a job in the industry.
Early Beginnings
“I can’t pinpoint when I wanted to be a designer but I’ve always loved playing with fabric and creating things. I loved to up cycle clothes. I can’t remember the first thing I made but it was probably out of my dad’s old shirts and appallingly made.”
MOVIE INFLUENCES
“My current graduate collection was inspired by a 1930s movie called Freaks. It’s about a traveling side show and they used a cast of people who had real deformities. I was inspired by the natural shapes of the so called freaks and drew my inspiration from them.”
INSPIRATION
“I hugely admire Margi Robertson and the NOM*d crew. I love that they don’t necessarily follow trends and have stayed true to their aesthetic for so long. The brand’s attention to detail and the finishing of the clothes are beautiful. I also admire the late Alexander McQueen for his pure genius. Everything he created was beautiful and I find him to be an inspiration when designing.”
INDUSTRY READY
“NZ Fashion Tech prepared me hugely for the industry. We had compulsory work experience, which fortunately resulted in me being hired. I worked part time for Zowie D, a Wellington dressmaker who does made to measure, out work, bridal and anything else people want, throughout my time at Fashion Tech. Fashion Tech also helped me get my current job at Oosh la la in Ahuriri. I’m employed as a pattern maker and all round hand and can also jump on the construction line when needed. Fashion Tech gave me the skills and confidence to be able to do this. The best part of the course for me was the structure. I prefer working all day rather than an hour here, an hour there like at university. The course content was thorough and they
taught relevant things that students benefit from. The teachers are amazing and are so easy to approach, the course wouldn’t be anything without them.”
FAVOuRITE FABRICS
“I design for people who like to express themselves through clothing and style, people who have confidence and appreciate what they wearing. I enjoy working with leather and any fabric that I think feels nice or has a cool texture. I love the toiling and sampling stage of a new design. I enjoy seeing a flat image come to life and figuring out different and better ways to do things in the process. I especially love draping a new garment.”
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Behind the business
Should I really have to motivate my team?
Yes, I know it’s part of my job description, but honestly some days it’s hard enough to drag myself out of bed and up the stairs, let alone motivate the rest of my team as well. Call me crazy, but I think my team should motivate themselves, not expect me to do it for them. I want them to turn up for work positive, rearing to go and get stuck in, happy that they have a job to come to where we appreciate their energy
and commitment. We’re lucky that we have a great bunch of people that are passionate about what they do – even when they’re sleep deprived (small children induced!). But is having a motivated team just luck, or is it a carefully manufactured state of affairs? There is a good saying, “Hire for attitude, train for skill.” I like it because in my 20+ years of experience in the retail and hospitality industries I have seen my fair share of bad hires. People that ruin morale, cause conflict, give bad service and devalue your brand. So it’s one of my main criteria when I employ someone. I can’t work with someone that isn’t going to do their fair share, and that means contributing to the atmosphere in which I work. And I don’t expect
Being open all hours is no longer smart business according to First Retail’s Chris Wilkinson.
anyone else in my team to have to put up with that either. Motivation is an attitude, it comes from inside you. You bring it with you when you come to work. That means that you control it. Sure, you can’t always control what happens to you, I accept that, but you can control how you deal with it. I’m even prepared to cut you a bit of slack when life gets complicated, but not for ever. What I will not tolerate is when that stuff upsets the rest of the team, impacts negatively on our customers or undermines our brand. We stick together, we watch each other’s backs, but we have high expectations about mood and motivation – it is just not acceptable to bring the team down, to be impolite and not do your best for our customers. So, yes, the first part of the equation is hiring the right people. What are you looking for? Well in retail you are looking for excellent communication skills. A willingness to engage with people, passion about something that is people orientated, the ability to articulate your ideas and a willingness to serve customers and give them an outstanding experience. I have to see energy, spark, or the ‘x-factor’ as some people call it. I’m not looking for loud, attention seekers, just people who epitomise our brand. Secondly, you have to make it very clear that motivation is their job, not yours. In Jim Collins words, “You are either on the bus or off the bus.” You don’t have to be trained to have a
You’re probably noticing some interesting trends around store hours over the past few years. Shifting consumer habits have meant many retailers are now choosing to align opening times with shopper demand. Typically, this is seeing shops open later in the morning on weekdays and offer extended hours on Saturdays. Key-time trading is a strategic response to increasing operational costs, changing lifestyles and the impact of e-commerce on shopper numbers. New Zealand has been late to embrace key-time principles, however change is rapidly underway. Now, with larger chains optimising hours there is opportunity for independent retailers to consider position and follow suit. Retailing is steeped in tradition, so it’s often hard to get business owners to make changes when necessary. Reality is, if you’ve staff that are not selling for the first hour, then that’s costing you. First steps to improving performance is by doing the numbers. This includes hour-byhour sales, customer activity and staff productivity. All these factors need careful consideration to make an informed decision.
good attitude, a bad attitude can’t be blamed on someone else because it’s a personal choice. And lastly you have to be prepared to put your money where your mouth is and take action if the need arises. It’s unacceptable for our customers to feel like they didn’t get 100% from us, to feel unloved or that we don’t care. Every member of the team must be accountable for their motivation and actions. There needs to be a very direct and straightforward conversation if anyone goes off track. In many cases the requirement to right the wrong with the customer will have a lasting effect on future motivation. So take a good look at the motivation in your team. If it’s not what you would like it to be, think about what you need to do. If you hired the wrong people, then start the conversations now and make sure that when you hire their replacement you look for motivation, not skill. While it’s not your job to motivate your team, it definitely is your job to hire people that embody your mindset, and do something about it if it goes missing in action.
Anya Anderson Managing director RedSeed Limited Christchurch www.redseed.me
In the fashion sector, look at when your busiest days typically are. It may be that extended hours in the morning and evening are best offered toward the end of the week and during weekends when consumers are at their most active. In today’s modern retailing environment it is alright to offer differential hours. This shows you’re responding positively to customers by being there when they need you most. It’s vital that whatever hours you set, retailers must remain flexible to meet seasonal opportunity. This could include cruise ship visits or local events where visitors will value the amenity value your store provides. Smart business is about optimisation and a great work-life balance for you and your staff. Meeting the market with your store hours is a perfect way to start. Chris Wilkinson
Managing Director of Strategists, First Retail group. www.firstretailgroup.com
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Behind the business
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Colour Trending
F
antastic and fresh, green symbolises health and growth. In a constant struggle to stay relevant, the industry is looking to jade for a crisp new look to dazzle consumers. Following the concept of a fresh beginning, Bibhu Mohapatra presents a clean-cut look that is crisp and sharp with embellished enhancements. The deep jade skirt, similar to Resene Hunter Green, keeps the outfit grounded so the busy top isn’t lost amongst the beads. Calvin Klein takes a more rustic approach using loose spun wool in both the jumper and pants. Typically winter colours can come across cold and rely on fabric properties to bring heat. The gloriously green pants similar to Resene Gondwana remind us of fresh grass on a spring day, an image that creates a feeling of warmth. Christian Dior isn’t afraid to play with colour, pairing the matching two-piece suit with a bright blue jacket similar to Resene Elvis. The blue and green work together to keep the look fresh and clean, with no details detracting from the classic shape and cut. Taking the more mysterious road, Costello
Tagliapietra uses a deeper blue, matched to Resene Midnight Oil, and green to create a more dramatic effect. Keeping in line with the modern stylish woman, the reflective, almost metallic material ensures the outfit stands strong in the current marketplace. To ensure jade can stand on its own, Douglas Hannant has created an ethereal look using a shade of green matched by Resene Scooter. The floor length gown has lines created purely by a tuck in the hip allowing the fabric to graciously drape across the body in effortless style. A surprise to many buyers is the combination of jade and eggplant. Dries Van Noten shows that if used correctly, the colours can establish a look that is both experimental and successful for an everyday customer. Using a colour similar to Resene Bedazzle, the skirt doesn’t overwhelm the overall outfit. The trend doesn’t stop at women; menswear brands are incorporating the jade trend into their upcoming collections. Marc by Marc Jacobs shows muted and understated colour like Resene Blue Night can work for male customers, changing the traditional black and navy trends that have dominated
menswear for decades. Dress it up or down, jade comes across as a trans-seasonal colour that can be manipulated in a multitude of ways and will be a staple in stores this season, and many seasons to come. Thomas Fowler
Resene Hunter Green Resene Gondwana Resene Elvis Resene Midnight Oil Resene Scooter Resene Bedazzle Resene Blue Night Resene Fern
Colours available from Resene ColorShops | www.resene.co.nz | 0800 737 363
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RESENE HUNTER GREEN BIBHU MOHAPATRA
RESENE BEDAZZLE DRIES VAN NOTEN
RESENE MIDNIGHT OIL COSTELLO TAGLIAPIETRA
RESENE BLUE NIGHT MARC BY MARC JACOBS
RESENE FERN ACNE STUDIOS
RESENE GONDWANA CALVIN KLEIN
RESENE SCOOTER DOUGLAS HANNANT
RESENE ELVIS CHRISTIAN DIOR
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LookBook
The Coincidental
Tourist Collection
Bellini Dress Sleeveless dress with splits in back yoke for ease in beautiful 100% patterned Silk. Has a bias bound neck, and D ring belt that ties on the hipline with side splits at hem. Back of dress is slightly longer than the front. Simply pulls on over the head. Available in two silk patterned fabrics. On the cover
Ritz Dress Short sleeved dress with boat neck and invisible zipper at the back, joined at hip line with contrastingly-cut self fabric and patch pockets at hipline.
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Key West Top Beautiful soft sheer knit top in fine wool acrylic with raglan sleeves. Has a draped back that ties at neck. Very versatile and comes in two colours charcoal and red. Vesper Bandeau Pull over stretch bandeau in wonderful ecosil knit (resistance to pilling or abrasion after repeated washes) with key hole at centre front and cross over ties at back neck. Lower edge is elasticated. Available in red and black. Rio Skirt 100% Silk elastic hip waisted skirt with front curved pockets that are self bias bound. Lower sides of hem have elastic rouche. Easy smart skirt that also comes in two silk patterned fabrics. To view full range go to www.apparelbuyerslounge.co.nz Photographer Caitlan Mitchell Model Esther from Nova Models Hair/Make Up Grayson Coutts Designer Liann Bellis Fashion Assistants Thomas Fowler, Nathalie Owen, Nicole Wesseling, Dearra Naidoo.
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Company Profile
Structural Concepts Since its inception last year, This Is Architecture’s first collection How To Fold Leather has rapidly gained interest in both local and offshore markets.
Founded by architecture student Renee Hooker, the company produces three unique leather bags – Everyday, Evening and For Coin – which incorporate structural concepts. “These were an exploration into the relationship between surface and structure, in challenging the 2D nature of the surface, and voiding any distinction between the two. Ultimately How To Fold Leather was a way to thoughtfully exploit the power of the architectural process when applied to something like accessories and to strive for something counter to the accumulation of fast fashion,” says Hooker. Currently stocked in Black Box Boutique, Hooker is in the process of making her second collection with the intent of exporting it. “Locally How To Fold Leather has been understood as special, the attention of global retailers only confirms that there is a market for these types of ideas.” Manufactured in New Zealand, the leather is laser etched and cut before being manually manipulated to enfold structurally without the use of stitching or glue. Hooker says the manufacturing process followed is different to other leather good producers, with This is Architecture investing in its relationships with fabricators. “The work occupies the space between technology and craftsmanship, concurrently exploring the unprecedented while being sensitive to material and form.” As Hooker’s background is grounded in ideas and ideologies, equal attention is given to the construction of an item and the ideas that underpin it. The company works hard to ensure the standards for both concept and construction are exacting, with Hooker’s architectural learnings evident in the design. “I think I believed the idea of architecture as the profession of making buildings to be kind of impossible, architecture to me is a way of thinking. This Is Architecture is a means to sustain my preoccupation with questioning the common understanding of the products of architecture. It is an apt vehicle for my constant learning,” said Hooker. Going forward the brand aims to gain traction in accessories and will eventually look to pursue additional projects.
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Behind the business
Branding your world Designing and making clothes is a creative process, the result often reflecting a little about the designer and how they see the world. But no matter how innovative and creative the design, if the clothes don’t sell, the designer will struggle to stay in business. Selling clothes is the key to survival. And designers can approach sales in many different ways. A designer may adopt a single sales strategy or a multilayered one. Whatever path is chosen, branding is an essential consideration of the mix. No one strategy is right.
Choose a name early
When a designer is setting up a business, thought needs to be given to how the overall business strategy will align with the branding strategy. Often designers give too little thought during the start-up phase of their business to the brand name, the store name or their online name. Taking steps early may save future heartache and expense.
Selling through others New designers often start out by approaching existing retail outlets to stock their collections. This is often not easy in the highly commoditised fashion industry. Having a distinctive brand can help. But selecting a distinctive brand can take time and effort. And often the first brand selected is not available – someone else may have secured it first. If the brand (and this includes words, logos, colours, and slogans etc) is available after making a search of the official records and the marketplace, then the brand should be registered. Registration gives the designer a monopoly right to use the name as a brand for all the goods and services it covers. This is likely to include at least clothing, accessories, wholesale and retail services. Because a designer can be unknown when they first enter the retail market, the more memorable their brand is, the easier it is for the retailer to promote it and for customers to remember it. After all, that is one of the key roles a brand plays – ensuring customers who like your products can find them again. Customers are able to do this by asking for the specific brand they like.
Have your own retail chain An alternative is for the designer to set up their own store. Again the store name will need to be made early on in the planning. Having the store name the same as the designer’s brand will help reinforce and promote the clothing brand in the minds of customers. WORLD and ZAMBESI are examples of this. Setting up multiple stores is a time-consuming exercise. Spending time developing a retail base can distract a designer from their passion and the core of their business – designing and manufacturing gorgeous clothes – but sales are essential. One way a designer can grow their retail base is to franchise their business. Again, having a strong brand, which is not only distinctive but well protected, is critical to the success of a franchise. After all, it is the profile and reputation of the designer’s brand in the market that the franchise promotes.
An online presence?
But new channels of selling have emerged. Brick and mortar stores are still important but increasingly customers are going online. Studies show that clothes are one of the most popular items bought online. This trend is likely to continue. Setting up an online presence involves many decisions but one of the most important decisions to make early on is the name the designer will use in cyberspace. Before creating a website, a domain name must be registered. It makes sense for this to be the same as the designer’s brand and store name. Customers familiar with a designer’s brand and wishing to find that designer online will intuitively search for the designer’s brand. That is what they know and recognise. But the ease and relative low cost of registering domain names means that it is not always easy to register
the domain name you want. As domain names are registered on a ‘first-come, first-served’ basis, a designer intending to trade online needs to act quickly to register their brand as a domain name.
Last thoughts
The brand a designer chooses is important. It stands alongside the designs created by the designer and is a part of a designer’s public face. Develop a sales strategy that is aligned with your business and your brand strategy. Making sure the brand chosen is available for you to use and register can impact
on the growth of a business. Don’t let this be a negative impact. Plan ahead and protect your precious brand.
Corinne Blumsky
Partner at AJ Park corinne.blumsky@ ajpark.com
iP is about ideas protected If you’re in the design industry then you’re in the business of creating intellectual property. Helping you turn that IP into a valuable asset is where we come in. If you want to find out how to be rewarded for your creativity and innovation – talk to us about protecting and commercialising your IP. We’ve been helping designers do this since 1891! Contact us today to find out more. 0800 257 275 I www.ajpark.com I New Zealand + Australia
AJ Park is about iP • intellectual property • igniting passion • ideas pervading
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Edits
SKECHERS LIGHT UP THE NIGHT Skechers have introduced a new shoe to its range. Night Owl is designed to glow in the dark making it safer to exercise and walk at night. The photo luminescent technology produces an intense glow effect in low light or darkness and short exposure to any light source causes the shoe to glow in the dark. The more powerful the light charges the great and longer lasting the glow effect. A 2013 Ministry of Transport report announced that despite walking being one of the safest modes of travel, in 2012, 33 pedestrians were killed, 227 were seriously injured and 690 others suffered minor injuries in policereported crashes on New Zealand roads.
AUTUMN AT PARISIAN Parisian beds down Autumn with this luxuriously textured fabric, woven especially for its Pierre Cardin Silk Collection. The array of six ties showcases the earthy colours of nature’s harvest season. The combination of two tones in each, accentuates the richly woven design, creating a subtle dappled effect.
CLASSIQUE FOR MAX
SCHIELE BOOT COLLABORATION Paintings and drawings by the Austrian expressionist, Egon Schiele, were a key inspiration for the Company of Strangers latest collection: Libertine – the limited edition Schiele boot is the brainchild of a new collaborative relationship between Company of Strangers and Chaos & Harmony. “Rebecca (Chaos & Harmony’s founder and designer) was so great to work with as she has so much energy and drive,” says Sara Aspinall, Company of Strangers founder and designer. “It’s easy to create when you are working with like-minded individuals. She was an absolute dream to collab with!” With its perfectly pitched platform and wedge heel, mix of textured leather in black and the domed strap detail, this boot captures the maverick free spirit of the collection.
Introducing Max Fashions new look carry bag produced for their Lambton Quay flagship store. The beautiful paper bag is made using natural uncoated paper stock with a glossy accent feature on the logo. The elegant packaging plays an important part in enhancing their customer’s buying experience. Whether it’s plastic or paper, bags or boxes, Classique are committed to providing a complete and competitive service to customers around the world. They design, make and deliver and you can even track your progress online.
Retailprofile Tosca and Salome: By Nathalie Owen Tosca and Salome are an up and coming fashion brand for the true gypsetter and ultimate wild child. Born out of Bex Riley’s love of travel, bringing the colours, textures and stories home from places around the globe. Tosca and Salome is literally fashion on wheels, following the sun and the festivals throughout the summer on their fashion truck the wanderlust boutique. While Bex had always seen a variety of food trucks in NZ she had “never seen anything filled with clothing or home wares”. Taking inspiration from “wee beach bars and boutiques” from her travels in Balearics, the idea of a fashion truck fitted perfectly with her gypset ethos. As well as their in-house range, Tosca and Salome source their products from all over the world. “The beauty of Tosca and Salome is visiting different countries, meeting local artisans, seeing them work, and hand picking pieces to bring home for the brand or creating them with these incredible artisans. At present
I’m working on some clutch bags and cushions made from vintage kilim textiles sourced in Morocco”. Bex is now focusing on expanding the Tosca and Salome brand, having just opened her first store in Herne Bay. “It’s not your usual boutique, since we travel so much the opening hours will vary over winter to what works best
with our gypset lifestyle. But it feels like a logical progression after a summer in the Bus”. However, Bex’s real love lies in the beauty and stories of the pieces she discovers on her travels. “I once found some absolutely incredible Tuareg Tribe Saddle Bags in the Sahara, beautifully adorned with symbols and talismans that protected the Caravansaries on their long journeys. I love meeting clients who appreciate where the unique pieces come from, and sharing the stories behind them”. Bex is the ultimate Tosca and Salome girl, a travelling nomad bringing treasures back to the homeland, and with her next trip firmly in her sights we can’t wait to see what exciting gems she’ll bring back next.
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