Apparel Magazine // March 2016

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MARCH 2016 I VOL 49 I NO 3

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NEWS FOOTWEAR RADAR FROM THE ARCHIVES INDUSTRY ACCORDING TO

FASHIONABLE

EDITOR’S letter GOING CONSUMER They say don’t fix it unless it’s broke, well consider this the

fixing. Top luxury brands have decided against a forward season runway, opting instead for a direct to consumer show. A new movement has been developed by the Council of Fashion Designers of America to turn the twice-yearly fashion shows into a consumer facing rather than an industry event, presenting in-season collections that are already in the stores. A study conducted by Boston Consulting Group to define the future of fashion shows has started where it will explore a possible shift to shows that are more closely aligned with retail drops.

“We have designers, retailers and everybody complaining about the shows. Something’s not right anymore because of social media, people are confused,” said Diane von Furstenberg, chairman of the CFDA. According to Furstenberg, consumers are seeing an outfit on social media and are expecting to see it in stores or it be available to them.

Designers would then have smaller showroom presentations and appointments with retailers and press to show collections six months out and to place orders. They then would have a runway show with all the bells and whistles for a consumer audience showing in-season garments, reaping the positive benefits of the social media phenomenon. The ultimate goal is to improve full-price selling. Designer Rebecca Minkoff has questioned the value of fashion shows that present forward season collections, by the time they become available to consumers, they are bored with styles that they have seen online a million times over in the media.

Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger and Burberry have also announced their move into consumer-facing shows, putting a brake on the pace of fashion. The change will not only significantly cut production costs for the shows themselves but will also allow the collections to stay on shop floors longer, as the move will include the cancellation of pre-collections.

Tom Ford cancelled his February show in place of his new Fall 2016 show in September, when the line will be immediately

available for purchase both in store and online. The move appears to align customer demand with the time the garments actually are available in store. The question now lies in how emerging designers will deal with the possibility of not only having to produce samples for a show, but also pieces for the market, without being able to gauge interest.

WORLD designer Denise L’Estrange Corbet believes that luxury brands now realise they have to compete in a market driven by consumers wanting everything now.

“Gone are the days where the consumer saved for an item, credit cards are God, and everything is immediate, I want it and I want it now, the internet has contributed to this, as an item can be delivered to your door, from halfway across the world, within 4 days,” said L’Estrange-Corbet.

“The brands realise that by showing consumer-facing shows, the customer is not having to wait 6 months for the product, as most likely they will have either; have forgotten what they saw, no longer want it, can no longer afford it, have bought something else or bought the nasty rip off!

Fashion is about now, we know longer want to wait, and even though, it is a logistical nightmare for the brands in terms of production, as they have to make two seasons at the same time, we have to always meet the consumers demands, the customer is King, and that is all there is to it!”

Let me know your thoughts, as a retailer or a designer by emailing me sarah@reviewmags.com.

Have a great month!

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

SHOE: Contemporary Footwear

by Inspiring Designers

By Olivier Dupon

Featuring over 400 illustrations, Shoe is a curated masterpiece of thirty master shoe designers housed in one book. Voices from Brazil, France, Italy, Poland, Russia, the UK and the United states come together to tell a story of footwear and highlight each masters individual work process. The book goes into detail, exploring mood boards, sketches, swatches and early samples of some of the most iconic footwear designs, taking the reader behind the scenes as to how each piece comes to fruition.

PRETTY HAPPY: Healthy Ways to Love Your Body

By Kate Hudson

ON THE COVER:

WEDNESDAY (left) wears ZAMBESI A-Line Skirt in Bronze and Sol Sana Bella Boot in Black.

BRANDI (right) wears CALISSA TEINIKER Leather Lace Up Bodice, ZAMBESI Long Gloves in Bronze, TOPSHOP Suede Belt and ONE TEASPOON Freebirds jeans in Hollywood.

the NUMBERS . . .

New Zealand wool exports are up 8.2 percent to $814 million from 2014 to 2015.

READS

The estimated purchasing power of Millenials by 2018 is expected to reach 3.4 trillion.

Pretty Happy is the culmination of Kate Hudson’s relationship with herself, exercise and the commitment to living a healthy lifestyle. Inside you will find countless stories of Hudson’s discoveries, whether it is what she eats or what she does.

The book centers itself on the Four Pillars of Health, with Hudson continuously going back to the drawing board and starting fresh, rather than holding herself to unrealistic standards of perfection.

“I didn’t just wake up one day understanding how to take care of myself. I had to learn how to do so over time, and I continue to learn—each and every day,” said Hudson.

MADEMOISELLE: Coco Chanel and the Pulse of History

Internationally, Visa Checkout has more than 11 million consumer accounts, with 600 financial institutions partners offering the service to 16 countries.

PUBLISHER Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com EDITOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Thomas Fowler - tommie@reviewmags.com

Monique McKenzie - monique@reviewmags.com Rossella Quaranta - rossella@reviewmags.com

ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DESIGNER

Josie McKeefry - josie@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com

2 I March 2016

Eleven percent of smartphone users check their devices 340 times a day.

PHOTOGRAPHER Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com ADMINISTRATION MANAGER Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287 Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.

By Rhonda K. Garelick Depicted in unprecedented detail and scope, Mademoiselle is a fascinating biography of designer Coco Chanel that transports the reader through key milestones in fashion’s history and sheds new light on the events that led to them. Author Rhonda Garelick encapsulates the essence of Chanel, a woman who thirsted to create others in her image, understood the idea of branding and image, a visionary of her time that Garelick describes as pioneering the concept of wearable personality.

The journey covers little black dresses, faux pearls, jersey knits, skirt suits and trousers for women, highlighting the influence of Chanel and the key elements that still exist in modern design.

Let us help you make the best match.

Call JACQUI 09 309 5020 or visit www.nzfashiontech.ac.nz

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BOOHOO ANNOUNCES EXPANSION

BRINGING HOME THE GOLD

C&F Garment Management has won double gold at this year’s New Zealand Direct Marketing Awards in Auckland. Its new campaign to explain to customers what the garment management business does as well as getting them excited about the offering didn’t just win the gold but also new business. C&F Garment Management provides customers with a very smart and seamless service, combining garment care with logistics and ensures the right garments get to the right store at the right time, looking nothing less than perfect.

To announce its new offering, C&F delivered a personalised letter to each of its customers. The letter was embroidered onto the back of a tailored blouse, which was neatly hung from a special-make C&F hanger, and hidden inside a black suit bag. No detail was overlooked, with a button even being hand-sewn onto the blouse to act as a full stop at the end of the letter.

Judges at the NZDM awards agreed it was a standout example of a business walking the talk, with a highly engaging and tangible demonstration of the breadth of C&F’s seamless service. The gold awards, in the Business to Business and Production and Fulfilment categories, also recognised the very positive response C&F had to its campaign, with some customers even choosing to wear their personalised blouse around the office.

The company’s customers are happy about more than just the campaign, so the service promise of the campaigns is being lived up to.

“Augustine made the decision last year to outsource our distribution,” said owner of Augustine, Kelly Coe. “We researched different companies, and C&F ticked all the boxes. They have been fabulous to work with and nothing has been an issue.

Outsourcing the distribution has freed up staff time and eliminated any mistakes with the pick and pack.

C&F have made the operation more seamless. As we continue to grow every season, it’s good to know C&F can handle this side of the business for us and won’t put us under pressure with our monthly deliveries.”

4 I March 2016

Online retailer boohoo.com has announced its 2016 expansion strategy. The company’s product strategy includes an expansion of its current range to allow it to broaden its target market. Product areas into which boohoo looks to expand include larger sizes, extending the boohoo plus range to offer a large number of styles in NZ size 16 and above. Accessories are also on the plan with an extended range of handbags, jewellery, belts, hosiery, hats and scarves. Supplier base for footwear looks to be extended as well aiming for more high end fashion footwear.

The recently launched boohooMan is set to increase the appeal of the brand to men.

Uptake of the brand has been particularly positive in Australia and New Zealand as the UK fashion e-retailer rapidly expands internationally.

MI PIACI NEW APPOINTMENT

Footwear brand Mi Piaci has appointed Sarah Street as its new brand manager.

Street has just returned from living in the UK working in London initially as a footwear designer then as a senior footwear designer at Marks & Spencer and River Island respectively. The main objective going forward is to redefine the Mi Piaci voice, and redirect Mi Piaci in a way that celebrates a renewed sense of confidence in the ranges.

“I think that as New Zealanders we really appreciate local design as well as European design, so we’re really embracing both of these formative aspects in our range,” said Street. “Our new collection is well thought out and refined with a stronger sense of direction than we’ve had in previous seasons.”

NZ WEBSITE NOW AVAILABLE

Australian retailer Seed Heritage has launched an online presence dedicated to New Zealand consumers. The brand, established in 2000, is most widely recognised for its fashion and accessories ranges for women, teens, children and babies. Online consumers can now enjoy New Zealand pricing, local in-store returns, faster delivery and flat rate shipping as well as a one click shop the look.

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UNPARALLELED REPUTATION IN STEAMERS Propress professional garment steamers have been the highest-quality, most-reliable steamers there are for a quarter of a century, and counting. Not only does Propress understand and appreciate fabric, it knows the speed, value, quality and service is important to the industry too.

Quite simply, a Propress steamer is the best steamer that anyone can buy, and has an unparalleled reputation among bridal professionals for over twenty-five years.

The brand has proven indispensable to manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers as well as a wide variety of wedding venues and even the brides themselves.

From veils to tails to evening dresses, ball gowns and satin shoes, Propress steamers are the perfect way to ensure that clothes look their very best. The steamers rejuvenate all fabrics in an instant, leaving them looking fresh and new. They cannot scorch or burn and are safe to use on the most delicate fabrics from velvet and silk to beads and other appliques and even lingerie.

Propress steamers are used on clothes as they hang,

removing creases and wrinkles immediately whilst maintaining a perfect shape.

They can also be used on the intricate details of dresses, be it a bodice, a bow or an underskirt, leaving the dress beautifully formed. Window displays can be updated in minutes helping to catch the customer’s eye. The key to the Propress’ exceptional performance is its unique, non-spit aluminium steam nozzle that fulfils two simultaneous functions, steaming and ironing, without damaging fibres. Five times more efficient than a part plastic nozzle, the aluminium nozzle ensures that creases and wrinkles instantly drop out and that fabric is left crisp, fresh and full in a way that no other steamer can achieve, with no spitting, dribbling or snagging.

Every component of a Propress steamer has been carefully designed to suit your needs, from the highimpact moldings and robust body to the stainless steel fastening and boiler – it is the ultimate steamer that does what you want it to do, made in England and built to last.

ZARA CONFIRMED FOR AUCKLAND

International fashion giant Zara will open its first New Zealand store at Sylvia Park, Auckland’s largest shopping centre in late 2016. “The excitement is building for our Sylvia Park shoppers,” said chief executive of Kiwi Property Chris Gudgeon. “Zara is known the world over as a leading fashion giant, with more than 2,000 stores in 88 countries. TO have secured their first New Zealand store at Sylvia Park is great news for our customers.”

“We are firm believers in investing in Auckland’s growth, and bringing Zara to Sylvia Park is part of our plan to create a truly world-class retail offer in an increasingly world-class city.” Kiwi Property will invest $11.5 million to accommodate Zara in a new ground level store located in the mid-mall area of the shopping centre. Expansion of the large format retail centre has been discussed and a range of options are currently under consideration including the addition of further international retailers, more specialty retail stores, department stores and additional customer parking. H&M will also open its first New Zealand store at Sylvia Park later this year.

BOUTIQUE TURNS 2

Auckland-based designer Amber Whitecliffe has celebrated two years since opening her boutique in Auckland’s Parnell.

“Since opening my boutique I have been able to achieve a greater understanding about my brand, what women like about it, what they want and why,” said Whitecliffe.

After starting off in the industry in a time that online shopping is at the forefront, Whitecliffe believes that having a physical presence has been really important. “I have learnt so much and been able to create amazing relationships with my customers through it. My biggest achievement would just be surviving in the tough fashion industry and to see Amber Whitecliffe grow.

Amber will also be welcoming her first child in May and will take a step back from the bricks-and-mortar store for a while but has many exciting projects planned for the year.

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TOP LABEL HEADS TO NEWMARKET

New Zealand apparel brand twenty-seven names have opened its new store in Auckland’s Newmarket shopping district.

The new flagship store is the brand’s third physical store, with one other in Auckland and another in Wellington. Renowned interior architect Rufus Knight designed the store’s fit out and designer Anjali Stewart’s family helped out with putting the final touches on the store. The new location will feature the label’s current AW16 collection, named ‘still life’ which showed at New Zealand Fashion Week last year. Windows play a key role in the new store, allowing natural light in to bring a soft focus to the simple colour palette, highlighting the collection.

OBITUARY:

Kevin Smith 1946 - 2016

Kevin James Smith, New Zealand fashion industry innovator, tertiary sector leader, and Managing Director of the New Zealand Institute of Fashion Technology (known as NZ Fashion Tech), died on 1 March 2016 age 69 after a year-long battle with cancer. He was described as a “strategic leader with vision, passion and drive whose sound commercial focus combined with strong social conscience”. Kevin Smith’s boundless enthusiasm and positive belief in the people, organisation and projects he led were infectious. His sense of possibility knew no limits and his creativity and courage to bring new ideas to life were inspirational.

Described by lifetime business partner and companion Val Marshall-Smith as the “most human of human beings,” Kevin championed those around him and was passionate about everything he touched, from art to adventure and from family times to fashion.

In 1974 at the age of 28, Kevin Smith with Val MarshallSmith established the fashion label Adobe, selling ranges through 45 outlets in New Zealand, Australia, New Caledonia and to a growing following through their own retail outlets in the Bay of Islands.

In 1995 Kevin began building tertiary fashion education provider NZ Fashion Tech to meet a growing need for sewing machinists in New Zealand. Teaching programmes were set up in Auckland and regional cities, soon expanding to main centres throughout the country. Kevin’s charisma and leadership also helped guide the independent tertiary sector through challenging years.Kevin was on the Executive and President of the independent tertiary sector body (ITENZ) from 2000, and during those years membership grew, workshops around the country were run, a Quality Commission was set up and a protocol was signed with Government securing funding. New

@cool_dudes_nz

6 I March 2016

Zealand’s fashion industry had moved to a design-led model and NZ Fashion Tech had moved too. Quality design and construction of garments and sewn products was at the heart of NZ Fashion Tech’s delivery. In 2015 NZ Fashion Tech won the ITENZ Entrepreneurship in Education Award at the sector’s 2014 awards ceremony for collaborations with three high-profile brands giving NZ Fashion Tech’s fashion students cutting-edge commercial experiences.

And Kevin Smith and Val Marshall-Smith were instrumental in seeing 35 NZ Fashion Tech students earn Prime Minister’s Scholarships for Asia and experience five weeks of post-grad learning at the Bannari Amman Institute of Technology in India in 2014 and 2015. Kevin Smith is survived by daughter Verity Smith (Development Manager), daughter-in-law Emilie Colson and grand-daughter Lilac.

NZ Fashion Tech, with their campuses in both Auckland and Wellington, has been helmed by Academic Director Val Marshall-Smith for the past year and that will continue, holding true to the business values and legacy of Kevin Smith.

@desireeclothing

FARMERS TO OPEN IN RANGIORA

New Zealand department store Farmers is set to open in Rangiora this spring alongside its associated specialty outlets. Farmers’ return to a central location within the town’s main shopping precinct, represents a major milestone for Rangiora and the wider Waimakariri District as part of reconstruction in the aftermath of the 2010 Canterbury earthquakes according to district mayor David Ayers. Construction of the new twostorey Farmers building began last winter with the contract awarded to Watts & Hughes. Scheduled to open in early September, the store will bring the very latest developments in retail design and a broad range of products to Waimakariri District shoppers according to Farmers. The new store is more than twice the size of the company’s previous one destroyed in the earthquake.

Michael Power, Farmers chief financial officer, said the official opening will be a real celebration as it has been a long wait for the people of Waimakariri, primarily because of insurance issues. “The new building represents a vastly improved shopping environment in a store that exemplifies state-ofthe-art retail thinking designed in harmony with the town’s main street architecture and landscape,” said Power. “We are very much looking forward to again being a key member of the community and helping to restore some confidence in the Rangiora as a retail destination.”

PATTERNMAKING GEM IN AUCKLAND After opening her Brown’s Bay studio a year and a half ago, designer and patternmaker extraordinaire Merine Le Sueur continues to provide a one-stop shop for the industry as well as her day-to-day clients. With years of experience in the fashion business under her belt, Merine has developed a great eye for the perfect fit and can create garments from concept through to production. From the studio she is able to offer the industry design services, patternmaking, sample prototype creations, illustrations, grading

@lucillagray

@marvininkdesigns

and alterations. Small production runs can be organised for clients and Merine ensures that all deliveries are met as well as liaising with cutters and machinists. Alongside the trade offering, Merine has continued to work with pageant contestants and socialites like Amelia Finlayson, creating made-to-measure occasional gowns.

As a designer Merine loves to work with lace, chiffon, velvets and silks creating classic styles that are fitting to the client’s silhouette.

@truenorthtrading

@unreal_fur

news

WISEWEAR TAPS IRIS APFEL SMARTER FEEDS ON INSTAGRAM

Photo and video sharing platform Instagram has announced via its blog that it will be tweaking its newsfeed to ensure that users will see not only recent shares but also those they may have missed while they were not using the app (currently the app only shows recently uploaded photos/videos in the newsfeed).

“You may be surprised to learn that people miss on average of 70 percent of their feeds,” said Instagram in a blog post. “As Instagram has grown, it has become harder to keep up with all the photos and videos people share. This means you often don’t see the posts you might care about the most. To improve your experience, your feed will soon be ordered to show the moments we believe you will care about the most.”

The order of the photos and videos on a user’s feed is to be based on the “likelihood you’ll be interested in the content, your relationship with the person posting and the timeliness of the post”.

This could prove to be an important change for companies that are increasingly turning to the service to reach out to consumers directly featuring their products and services.

Style icon Iris Apfel has been announced as the face of the wearable technology brand WiseWear as they launch its new bracelet as part of The Socialite Collection.

Notifying the wearer not just of incoming calls, the bracelet also provides standard fitness tracking information and serves as a security device to provide GPS location to friends in an emergency. It is the first wearable technology that is encased in metal instead of plastics or elastomers.

The base of the bracelet is considered the brains and houses the technology part, while the top is referred to as the beauty, both are detachable to allow for the wearer to interchange the designs and metals for a variety of looks.

Apfel is fronting the initial collection for the brand while also developing her own line of wearable tech jewellery in partnership with the company.

NEWMARKET BUSINESS AWARDS OPEN

The Newmarket Business Association has announced that the Newmarket Business Awards for 2016 are now open for entries.

This year two new major sponsors have come on board, Bayleys and Auckland City BMW. “Last year our awards were an amazing success culminating in a black tie, red carpet evening at the Auckland War Memorial Museum,” said NBA’s CEO, Mark Knoff-Thomas.

“An exciting addition this year is a new competition being run for AUT Retail students in conjunction with Selfridges of London, AUT and Spaceworks Group. Students are tasted with creating window display in one of the retail stores taking part.

The winner wins a two week internship at Selfridges in London.”

Categories include; best customer experience, best innovation of the year, retailer of the year, and most sustainable business award. For more information visit www.newmarket. co.nz.

ADIDAS CAN KEEP STRIPES

German sporting goods maker Adidas has won a case at the Court of Justice of the European Union after Belgian company Shoe Branding Europe sought to register two parallel marks in 2009. The stripes were to be equidistant and of the same width as the Adidas markings and placed on the outside of a sports shoe.

Adidas opposed the registration with the Office of Harmonisation in the Internal Market, EU’s trademark and designs registry after they found no similarity between Adidas’ three stripes and the proposed two strips. Adidas then brought the case before the General Court in Luxembourg which last year ruled in the brands’ favour. The decision was appealed by Shoe Branding Europe.

“We welcome the decision. We are grateful the court recognised the importance of protecting our valuable trademark. We will continue to protect our trademarks and fight any unlawful behaviour,” said a spokeswoman for Adidas.

Contact us now to discuss your needs.

Phone: +64 9 255 2560 I Mobile: 021 769 560 Email: john@dsl.co.nz I www.dsl.co.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

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CANCER DETECTING LINGERIE

TECHNOLOGYnews MK ENTERS WEARABLE TECH WORLD

SNAPCHAT BUILDS SMART GLASSES

Experts in wearable technology and hardware are secretly working on a new project with social media startup, Snapchat.

Despite having never produced a physical product, the app that boasts 100 million daily users, has industrial designers and nearly a dozen wearable technology professionals working for them. This would suggest that the company is working on its first piece of consumer hardware.

Snapchat declined to comment on the project.

“If they are investing in new tech, that would be great,” said a virtual reality entrepreneur in an article. “They probably know that most apps in their situation have a limited lifespan and monetisation potential.”

They aren’t the first to invest in the trend, Facebook paid US$2 billion for Oculus, and Google is a key investor in Magic Leap, it would make sense for the Snapchat CEO and co-founder Evan Spiegel would want to invest in smart eyewear. In 2014 the company purchased Vergence Labs, a startup that makes smart eyewear that records video of what the wearer sees.

This Autumn, designer Michael Kors will enter the wearables market with a new wearable technology accessories line.

The launch is geared towards the fashionfocused consumer and features a smart timepiece that focuses on glamourous style and innovative design from a leader in luxury fashion.

The cutting-edge technology, which runs with both iPhone and Android phones, is made possible through a partnership with Google. Designed to show that technology and social connectivity should be seamless, the Michael Kors Access line proves that access can be both glamourous and effortless.

“I’m in the business of making people’s lives easier through fashion,” said Michael Kors. “I thought why couldn’t tech accessories be chic and glamourous? You wear them every day. After all, technology is impacting life more and more. It should reflect your personal taste as much as anything else, but it should also give you access to all the experiences that you want.”

Wearable technology is gaining a lot of traction in accessories but scientists from a university in Columbia have made bras a whole lot more fancy than just having some crystals on them. Scientists have developed a cancer-detecting bra.

The bra features sensors monitoring the breasts temperatures and notifying the wearer if these temperatures become irregular, as cancerous cells tend to have a higher temperature.

“When you have cells in your mammary glands that are anomalous, the body needs to send more blood to that specific part of the body, and the temperature of this organ increases,” said the team.

Still in its testing stages, the new invention doesn’t mean consumers should stop getting regular tests, but brings a whole new meaning to the term ‘wearable technology’.

VOGUE ON WHATSAPP

British Vogue has become the first fashion magazine to officially join messaging app WhatsApp. Since February, the magazine has been sending the latest runway looks and fashion news to followers’ phones. “Joining our group means we’ll message you as soon as the creative director of Dior is announced, or the Chanel catwalk pictures go live, or the Oscars dresses land on the site, no more scouring Twitter or relying on tabloids for your latest fashion fix,” said Vogue in an article.

The magazine has been restricted in its use of the app and can send no more than two alerts per day, some days with no alerts. On their Twitter account, British Vogue posts upwards of 30 times in two hours. “We respect our readers’ use of WhatsApp as a channel typically used for communication with friends and family,” said Lucy Hutchings, editor of Vogue. co.uk. “So we have limited our posts to ensure we don’t flood our suers’ feeds, while still ensuring they receive breaking fashion news headlines straight to their phones first.”

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BEAUTYnews L’OREAL TOPS ETHICAL LIST

Leading beauty company L’Oréal has been recognised by the Ethisphere Institude, a global leader in defining and advancing the standards of ethical business practices, as a 2016 World’s Most Ethical Company.

The World’s Most Ethical Companies recognises organisations who align principle with action, work tirelessly to make trust part of their corporate DNA, and in doing so, shape future industry standards by introducing tomorrow’s best practices today. Being an honouree for the seventh time underscores L’Oréal’s commitment to leading ethical business standards. “It’s an honour to be recognised again as one of the world’s most ethical companies because it strengthens our belief that a business with a culture of integrity and transparency has value in the eyes of consumers,” said Martin Smith, executive general manager, L’Oréal New Zealand.

Martin Smith, Executive General Manager, L’Oréal New Zealand

BRAND MAKEOVER FOR ECOYA

After launching the Botanicals by Ecoya collection in 2011, the range has recently been re-introduced in cheerful new packaging that better reflects the bold, beautiful bouquets inside. The collection of six soy wax fragranced candles now have new vessels and packaging and features bright contemporary cartons and crisp white vessels. Botanic jar, Mini Botanic jar, Reed Diffuser, Hand Cream and Soap make up the offering in five core fragrances. The fragrance combinations use both floral and plant blends that are quintessentially Australasian, with combinations including Jacaranda and Plum, Coral and Narcissus, Banksia and Bergamot, Midnight Orchid and a new addition Oriental Lily and Patchouli, a limited edition fragrance that was so sought-after it has been introduced to the core collection. Like it’s big sister brand ECOYA, Botanicals by Ecoya uses only botanical bases and 100 percent natural soy wax with cotton wicks. The body-care collection is hypoallergenic and free from Parabens, Sulfates, Propylene Glycol and artificial colours.

CHROMING REPLACES STROBING

PREMIUM BODY FONDANT

Skincare and beauty brand Kester Black have launched the perfect duo of Hand and Body Fondant. The new additions are two premium hand and body fondants to go with their already existing duo of hand and body wash. Scented with cedar and amber, thyme oil and bergamot, the Pardon range is for consumers who prefer the freshness and lightness of an uplifting scent. The second scent is Lucky with a sweeter and softer scent with a warmer feel. Products contain 99.1 percent natural content and certified organic ingredients.

The world of beauty is now moving as fast as the fashion world and every season new trends emerge.

After introducing it on his Instagram page, senior artist for MAC Cosmetics UK Dominic Skinner’s picture introducing chroming went viral. Captioned, “BOOM. Chroming made easy! Chroming is the new strobing,” Skinner described how he created the new look. “Used the new MAC X Mariah Carey All I Want Lipstick as a highlight on the cheekbones, brow bone and eyelid. Love it as a Lipstick, love it more as a highlighter.”

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SELL OUT LIP KITS

Social media queen Kylie Jenner released a second drop of her popular Kylie Lip Kit and it sold out in just 28 minutes.

This comes two months after Jenner released the first three colours that also sold out in a matter of minutes. The lip kits include a pencil liner and matching liquid matte lipsticks. Three new shades, Koko K, Posie K and Mary Jo K were released alongside the original shades Candy K, Dolce K and True Brown.

Current listings on e-commerce site eBay have the lip kit bids starting at US$200 despite the retail price being just US$29. According to Jenner’s Snapchat account, prior to selling out, there were 100,000 active users on the site.

Jenner is fast becoming one of the most powerful social media influencers in beauty. She is currently expanding her beauty brand portfolio with the recent collaboration with nail polish brand SinfulColors. Industry reps believe that the Jenner collaboration could bring US$15 million at retail to the brand.

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TEXTILEnews BAMBOO TEXTILE GAINS TRACTION

As well as having excellent strength, shape stability, washability, colourfastness, shrink fastness, the bamboo fibre is a very logical choice and is known for being exceptionally comfortable against the skin.

Recent developments in technology have meant that bamboo fibre can be used for textiles.

Bamboo Textiles took this new textile fibre and trialled it for western conditions and lifestyles with successful results. The company selected the most needed items from the range developed and began distributing them commercially. The extra-thick work socks were so popular that the company ran out of socks in two months.

Consumers now await eagerly the next textile product to become available to add to their wardrobes.

A fully sustainable textile, bamboo also offers

anti-bacterial properties. Bamboo has been grown for millennia in Asia without the use of pesticides and is rarely attacked by any pests or susceptible to diseases. Japanese scientists have found the reason behind this being a unique anti-bacterial agent of bamboo named ‘bamboo kun’. This substance, combined with the tight molecular structure of bamboo fibres, are believed to give it its anti-bacterial and bacteriostatic properties, which is not diminished even after more than 50 washes. Sweat and moisture is immediately absorbed and taken away from the skin and the powerful natural anti-bacterial property of the bambo constantly keeps bacteria populations in check. Alongside its popular range of socks, Bamboo Textiles offers men’s trunks and t-shirts and women’s briefs and singlets.

www.bambootextiles.co.nz

10 I March 2016

PRINTER HELPS CUSTOMERS MOVE BRANDS

Textiles Alive Printers has launched a new look and fresh perspective on how it does business.

It has a new logo, a refreshed visual identity and a strengthened set of brand values that more closely align with its customer-focussed ‘moving brands’ philosophy.

“Behind the philosophy is a strengthened commitment to helping our customers help their clients move their brands, products and services,” said director of Textiles Alive John Heyworth.

“People remain the central focus of our vision to become New Zealand’s preferred supplier of printed textile solutions. We’re looking to extend our product range and increase our capacity this year and we can only achieve this by remaining people-focussed, this will encompass our staff, clients and suppliers.

The company has moved from being a keen and innovative company to a progressive and established wholesalers across the country. It uses high definition digital print processes only and modern techniques that result in stunning print quality for small and large quantity production.

It prides itself on being a ‘green’ alternative for printing and adopts a dye sublimation process that uses water-based dyes and recycled paper in the production process.

For more information contact Textiles Alive at sales@textilesalive.co.nz .

Kicking off the autumn season in style, fabric specialists CWT hosted their bi-annual event to launch the latest Autumn Winter 2017 range of textiles. Hosted in the company’s new Grafton premises, representatives from the country’s most influential fashion labels were treated to an evening with champagne and canapés as the expertly curated collection of fabrics and key international trends for the upcoming season were unveiled.

The forthcoming season will see a return to opulence and luxury, evidenced through rich colour palettes and fabrications. For autumn, dark garnet gems and berry hues in deeply saturated tones, embodying a sophisticated appeal will prevail. Blossom and lotus pink provide soft and trans-seasonal sensibilities, while camel, a colour synonymous with luxurious, noble materials such as cashmere, adds warmth. Black, bright red, and gold round off the season’s palette.

Luxe jacquards, artisanal handloom, supple leathers with soft drape, statement furs, and black lace are the season’s fundamental materials.

For print and patterns, macro checks, heritage plaids, traditional Japanese garden prints, spliced geometric prints, animal skins, and dispersed florals will feature in collections.

The trend towards minimalism will continue, with tailored outerwear and clean denim lending an elegant, contemporary look. Quilting and the bomber silhouette will provide a sense of sophisticated sportiness.

CWT’s position as market leader for women’s on-trend fashion textiles has been furthered as the company is now offering a full CMT service, through parent company, Fashion Biz’ Xiamen factory.

With fabric sourced and tested by CWT, a team of highly skilled machinists, low minimums, and strict quality control carried out here in New Zealand, the company provides a seamless experience delivering the highest quality garments every time. With the ability to produce a complete range of garments for any season in a timely manner, CWT’s service has been endorsed by some of the world’s leading fashion designers.

MENSWEARnews NEW WEBSITE FOR LONDON LUXURY

London-based luxury menswear retailer, Dunhill, has relaunched its online shop in order to reach more customers internationally. Along with the shop, the brand also redesigned its website to include a new section called The Club. The new design reflects Dunhill’s “homes store” concept, in order to bridge the gap between the customer experience in store and online.

HOMESPUN SUPPORTS LOCAL AUSTRALIA

In a dramatic shift from its usual process, Jeanswest has introduced a new menswear range sourced and made entirely in Australia. The Homespun collection was designed to better connect with the customers who have demanded increased traceability and transparency. “There’s a story behind each garment in the Homespun range, from the handmade boot makers in South Australia, to the denim being washed at a Brooklyn laundry,” said Adam Lloyd, general manager of product, Jeanswest. Denim jeans, cotton tees, fleece sweaters, merino wool beanies, scarfs, socks, leather belts and suede desert boots all made up a full spectrum collection, bringing together seven of Australia’s most well-known suppliers. The homespun idea was initially introduced in 2015 when the brand began manufacturing its Homespun Tees, which were also 100 percent locally sourced and manufactured.

BECKHAM APPOINTS NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Soccer-star-turned-designer, David Beckham, has announced the decision to bring Daniel Kearns on as creative director of Kent & Curwen. Kearns brings with him experience working at Ermenegildo Zenga, Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. “We share the same vision for the brand and it’s going to be enjoyable trying to realise that ambition,” said Beckham.

The appointment of Kearns marks the start of an expansion for Kent & Curwen, with the development of a London flagship store already underway, and plans for locations in New York, Miami, and Milan.

Five Minutes with

BRENDON DE SILVA Bespoke Tailor

12 I March 2016

NEW CONTRACT FOR PATTINSON SNOW MEETS MACY’S

American department store, Macy’s, has partnered with snowboarding champion Shaun White to launch a line of t-shirts and denim in June.

While the collection will be sold exclusively through Macy’s, only 175 of its 750 stores will stock the line.

For the first time ever, a celebrity has been named as the new face of Dior menswear.

Actor, and Twilight star, Robert Pattinson, was named the new face of Dior and pictured by none other than Karl Lagerfeld himself for a campaign set to launch at the beginning of April. Pattinson previously worked with Dior in 2012 on a fragrance campaign.

BRIAN BRAKE PHOTOGRAPHS NEW COLLECTION

Much like the direction of Working Style’s new AW16 collection, photographer Brian Brake has crossed boundaries and drawn inspiration from classic and contemporary influences. The collection was photographed inside Titirangi’s Brake House, and continues the Working Style legacy that includes Auckland’s St James theatre and Wellington’s Athfield House in its repertoire. “The parallels between the location and our collection are strong. Autumn/Winter 2016 is built on a backbone of family-heritage cloth companies in Italy. The Brake house has reached heritage status as well as being one of the best examples of modern architectural design in the country,” said Chris Dobbs, founder, Working Style.

Having trained under a bespoke master at a young age, Brendon de Silva has now positioned himself as one of the best Bespoke tailors in New Zealand.

Silva started his career at The Suit Centre, selling upmarket suits before spending time at Working Style, which eventually lent itself to transitioning to the next level of tailoring. “A bespoke suit is made in stages with generous inlay to establish the perfect fit as only a bespoke suit can. This differs from a made to measure suit which is made in one go with a few alterations before and after and can never attain the fit of an authentic bespoke garment,” said Silva.

For the past 15 years, Silva has been visiting mills in West Yorkshire, where he sources English suiting fabric and catches up with industry friends. Along with designer Jane Daniels, Silva visits Paris to attend a three-day trade fair and meet with a local French tailor to further his education.

“Italy is for the bits in the suit you don’t see, the sun

dried canvases and beautifully made silk and Bemberg lining. The hours of effort that go into a bespoke suit prohibits the use of inferior materials.” This year Silva hopes to take on an apprentice, to both pass on his knowledge but also increase throughput as his client waiting list continues to grow. But urged that training in a bespoke style is incredibly time consuming, and maintenance of high standards is incredibly important.

“New Zealand generates young fashion designers by the truckload. They all exit with the same generic knowledge but none could make a top end garment after 3-4 years of study. It would be great if we could attract overseas talent to fill this tuition gap and allow time in their courses for this.” For now, Silva continues the almost 120-year-old tradition of Preston and Maurice Tailors, situated in the same workroom at Auckland’s Queen’s Arcade.

“The arcade is old-worldly enough to look the part and has natural light, which is essential for a tailor.”

SLAVE SANDAL NAME CHANGE

Italian fashion house Dolce & Gabbana is under fire again with its recent release of “the slave sandal”, a US$2,395 shoe that was put up on the brand’s website for pre-sale. It wasn’t the price of the shoe that caused the outcry but rather the sandal’s name that has been criticised for being culturally insensitive to AfricanAmerican history. The flat sandal style was often described as “slave” before the term “gladiator” became the more widely accepted term. The term “slave” has been dropped from the descriptor of the sandal and now is referred to as the “Pom-Pom Wrap Around Sandal”.

MASTER SHOEMAKER IN DUNEDIN

Renowned Japanese shoemaker Keitaro Takano presented a selection of his handmade shoes at a private viewing and public exhibition at Olveston Historic Home in Dunedin as part of iD Fashion Week 2016. The viewing included a selection of ‘Clematis Ginza’ shoes by Keitaro and a new line of ready-to-wear shoes. The public exhibition showcased a selection of Keitaro’s shoes and remnants of shoe artefacts from local archaeology excavations. As one of the relatively few practicing Japanese-trained bespoke shoemakers, Keitaro’s shoes are embodied with tradition and status and are an example of Japanese master craftsmanship.

‘Clematis Ginza’ shoes are characterised by their signature elegant shape, graceful design lines and decorative stamp work which adorn the soles. The shoes are polished to such sheen that they are often mistaken for wood, they are in fact formed entirely by hand from premium leather. The shoes take 10 months to complete from ordering and are priced between $1300-$13,000 a pair. Keitaro produces around 60 pairs a year. His workshop is located in the neighbourhood of Ginza, Tokyo’s most glamourous district, renowned for its highend goods and big brand department stores.

TOP

AUTO-LACING SNEAKER

President and CEO of Nike, Mark Parker has unveiled four new innovations this month, including the Nike AirVaporMax shoe, Nike Anti-Clog Traction, Nike HyperAdapt 1.0 and the new Nike+ app. To achieve greater flexibility and spring the VaporMax’s new technology allows the unit to act as a standalone outsole by incorporating the Air and exterior layer into one unit, eliminating the need for traditional foam midsole. It also reduces waste and weight. Powered by an underfoot-lacing mechanism, the Nike HyperAdapt 1.0 has addressed the individual requirements in lacing and fit preferences. Loose laces and tight laces will be a thing of the past as they are now personalised to the shoe wearer that can be manually adjusted on the go.

FOOTWEARnews

RIHANNA FOR MANOLO

Having already worked with Puma on a line of sneakers, musician Rihanna has now moved up the ranks to work with luxury brand Manolo Blahnik. Rihanna has been wearing his creations for years and has always been a big fan of the designer’s work, and now she has worked with the design power house to create a six-piece collection that will launch in May this year. Inspired by the singer’s tattoos, the range will be crafted primarily from denim and embroidery.

METALLIC DETAIL FOR STAN SMITH

The iconic Stan Smith sneaker range from Adidas has been reinvented again. This year the brand took a novel take on the tennis silhouette and featured iridescent detailing on the heel, a contrast to the all-white upper.

PUMA TAPS KYLIE JENNER

Social media queen Kylie Jenner was excited to unveil her first advert for footwear brand Puma this month. Jenner showed off her sporty side wearing a pair of blue butterfly-effect leggings and matching croptop to promote the brand’s Fierce ‘lightweight trainer’ campaign. She was announced as the brand ambassador of Puma’s spring/summer campaign last month. This however did not go down well with her brother-in-law Kanye West and his widely sought after Adidas Yeezy collection.

Sonia Rykiel – Fury

Saint Laurent – Pink

Balmain – More Than Thigh High

Dries Van Noten – Velvet

Moncler Gamme Rouge – Disco

Shoe Trends @ PFW apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 13

MOSEN

BEACH KNICKERS Rose Ackland grew up in Tauranga living on an orchard. Alongside her one sister and three brothers, her entire family is very creative and Ackland believes they got it from their painter parents. Sick of sewing hideous pillows in textile class in high school, she moved up to Auckland to study a Bachelor of Fashion Design at AUT. She has always had a love of fashion for as long as she can remember.

Her first memory of loving a garment was when she fell into a fountain when she was smaller and she needed something dry to wear, her Dad took her to buy a dress, it was a baby blue crushed velvet dress and she fell deeply in love with it. Ackland’s

14 I March 2016

future plans are to travel more, but always sewing. She makes sure she creates something new every week. For Beach Knickers, she is inspired and influenced by a lot of movies and characters. In particular, she was inspired by Brigette Bardot and the cute but sexy characters and costumes in the movie Lolita.

Ackland believes everyone should support NZ made and continue to support brands like Kate Sylvester, World and Zambesi. In the long run, the young 21-year-old designer would like to own her own vintage store or some kind of shop. For more information, contact roseackland@gmail.com.

After meeting one day on the ferry to Waiheke where the pair both lived, Ash Mosen and Lula Cucchiara knew that their design and creative backgrounds would make a good combo for a clothing label. Four years ago, the duo started Mosen, a clothing brand that utilises their skills and ideas to create clothes they love.

“I have always been interested in how garments are made and put together, my Mum has a wrought iron Singer with a treadle foot that she taught be to sew on when I was five,” said Ash Mosen. “My introduction to fashion was through film and photography,” said Lula Cucchiara. “My Aunty was a model in the 80s and I was always fascinated and inspired by her style and photos. She was also a photographer, as is my Dad, who taught me how to use a film camera when I was 12.” In recollecting their first memories of fashion, Ash used to make tiny pieces of clothing for a porcelain doll, and the first garment was a pair of velvet leopard print pants.

Cucchiara has always wanted to make her own shoes and as a child loved accessories like belts and socks, she admits to having a slight sock obsession. The pair have no official plans as of yet to wholesale, their first collection is a capsule and the next step would be to sell online. “We have a shared studio space on K Road in Auckland with James Dobson, the designer behind Jimmy D, it’s a great environment to work in and be creative.”

Music and film are their biggest inspiration, watching lots of films and for their current capsule the design duo have taken influence from post-punk from the 80s, icons, movies and music. “We are taking cues from the music, subtle, modern streetwear is what we are wanting to create,” said Cucchiara.

While Cucchiara loves to curate mood boards and conducting research when conceptualising a design, Ash loves the textiles and colour aspect.

On a recent trip to Buenos Aires the pair brought back a lot of suede fabric, all made in Argentina (where Cucchiara is from), which means a lot to the duo and have inspired them to create this capsule. Looking to the future, they would love to see customers wearing and enjoying their creations and understanding the brand’s vision, which extends past “only” garments into a combination of film and photography, blending the duo’s creative talents together through the brand.

MORFA

Gregory O’Connor never thought he was the creative type until a few years after completing his business degree he saw a gap in the New Zealand activewear market and researching what was available. “I love fitness and have a background in sports, playing soccer for the University of Tampa and have represented New Zealand at Fusal (indoor soccer),” said O’Connor.

“I had spent a lot of money on activewear and became tired of the same old products on offer in New Zealand and disappointing quality. I became aware of a range of brands overseas offering hiend activewear with better quality and designs than what was here. These products really caught my eye so I decided to create a New Zealand company that offered these types of products.”

Ultimately, O’Connor would like to be stocked in retail stores as well as having a large online presence.

“Our plans for the near future are to grow our brand awareness and widen our product range, which includes releasing our tights and men’s shorts. “As for long term, we want to establish Morfa as specialist in high-end active lifestyle wear with a unique style. Meaning that as well as the high performance clothing, we aim to produce additional ranges that provide more active casual styles for wearing outside of the gym or studio.” The brand is also looking into different fabrics such as Merino, Bamboo, Carbonised and silver fibre blends.

“I have always really appreciated quality and fine detailing. A few brands that I take inspiration from are Isaora, Lucas Hugh, Stamp, I Love Ugly and John Elliot. When it comes to activewear there is so much colour, branding and noise, and I much prefer a clean and understated look.”

For more information contact Gregory on Gregory@morfa.nz.

OFFCUT CAPS

A brainchild of Adrien Taylor and Matt Purcell, respectively a former TV3 news reporter and a First Class cabin crewmember based in Dubai, Offcut was founded last year as an environment-conscious fashion brand.

The idea sparked in Taylor’s mind when he visited his father’s curtain textile warehouse in Christchurch, and found out that a huge amount of remnant fabrics and unused samples were destined to landfill. He instantly realised that all that textile waste could enjoy a second life as timeless five panel caps. “It makes environmental and commercial sense,” Taylor said. “I’m a firm believer that there’s a lot of business to be made this century from reducing inefficiencies in established supply and production chains. In other words, turning waste into value.”

Taylor then got his best friend Matt Purcell involved,

SURFCLUB

Design duo Nicola and Claire are the cocreators of new NZ lingerie lounge and swimwear label Surfclub. Both living and working by the seaside at the Mount, the pair are relaxed and fairly free spirited, caring about the environment and others which translates perfectly into their brand. A photographer by trade, Claire has loved fashion from an early age and has always enjoyed shooting editorials on old film.

“I think I was always making something when I was little, paper maché giraffe, tracks through the woods, pressing flowers,” said Claire. “As long as I’m making something I’m happy, fashion is just a different disguise.” Nicole has been involved in the industry working for a various brands prior to starting the label. “I love creating new ideas and designs for different things, not just in fashion but in my day to day life and house projects,” said Nicole.

“We met at the local Surfclub, I’d been selling jewellery I had been making to a store that Nicole worked at so we’d chatted over the phone and then they threw a party and we just became friends from there,” said Claire.

The Surfclub label was born out of the pair struggling to find any good swim or lingerie pieces in New Zealand for themselves. “There was a limited market for pretty, casual lingerie lounge and swimwear,” said Nicole. “Together we had some ideas for how we wanted our brand to look and feel and for us it was all about creating a vibe for our customer that would

and Offcut was born. Since then, they teamed up with almost a dozen companies to source off cut, end of line, remnant, discontinued and misprinted fabrics and turned them into NZ-crafted caps. “Companies have been quick to jump into partnerships with us to reduce their waste footprints. We pay them for the right off cuts, so it’s a winwin arrangement for all. There’s a change happening and ‘everyday people’ growingly feel the need to be more conscious consumers.”

As part of their environmental commitment, Taylor and Purcell wanted to give something back and decided to set up a partnership with Trees for the Future, with one tree being planted for every cap sold. In the meantime, they plan to expand their global reach and set out manufacturing bases overseas, and they are about to launch an initiative called ‘Bring-Your-Own Fabric Caps’ allowing people to turn their old fabrics into caps.

Taylor does not rule out the possibility of creating different accessories. “We’re just focused on caps right now, with no immediate plans to branch out,” he said. “Our company name is Offcut, not Offcut Caps, so there’s plenty of scope for us to branch out if we want.”

satisfy their need for something different, something that makes them feel good.”

“Our garments are made with the girl next door in mind, classic cuts and colours, and we are influenced heavily by our surroundings and from timeless silhouettes and aesthetics,” added Claire. Respecting the environment and others are values that stay close to the pair’s hearts and crafting quality products that they can proudly stand behind.

Future goals include finding some great stockists. “We’d love a few more wholesale accounts for future seasons. Our focus this past year has been to build brand awareness, the red Pamela one piece certainly helped with this,” said Clarie. Plans to find some stockists in the South Island are on the cards after the creative duo picked up a stockist in Byron Bay in Australia.

To date Claire believes her biggest achievement has been being brave enough to start the label despite both of them having a lot of other commitments and responsibilities.

“Launching a new brand with two small children, seeing our dream become a reality and seeing customers in our garments has been my greatest achievement,” added Nicole.

Going forward the pair want to keep their garments made in New Zealand, use ecofriendly fabrics and build a strong sense of imagery while maintaining the quality of the product. For more information contact Claire on Claire@surfclublabel.com.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 15

behindtrending colour the business

Alexander McQueen Resene Pink Terrace

Gucci Resene Sakura

Marchesa Resene Bullseye

Love is in the air

Pheromones are at an all time high as the fashion industry looks for inspiration in romance, where Cupid shot his arrow and the result is a runway full of red and pink.

16 I March 2016

Oscar de la Renta Resene Boutique

Sarah Burton, right before she left for maternity leave presented a beautiful and delicate collection for Alexander McQueen, playing on the idea of sleepwalking, and the moment where reality and dreams become blurred. While the collection was entirely cohesive, the sheer silk in a light pink akin to Resene Pink Terrace was a vision of romance and drove home the dream state inspiration.

Much like previous collections, Marchesa presented another range of showstopping creations, described as regal and powerful like a queen. The show was dramatic and extravagant on the whole, but the hero was a deep red, high-neck, gown in a colour similar to Resene Bullseye. What is more romantic than a red rose? And this is exactly what designers Georgina Chapman and Karen Craig landed on when they looked at the royal gardens at Highgrove House in Gloucestershire, which then became the focus for the collection as it developed.

Ralph Lauren and Rodarte coined onto the same

behind the business

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Resene Countdown

Ralph Lauren Resene Blaze

train of thought, both presenting gowns in colours comparable to Resene Blaze and Resene Red Hot. Ralph Lauren focussed on delivering a range that was inherently regal, incorporating high levels of velvet into the collection, alongside the use of the Queen’s golden coat of arms as a fastener.

Taken out of context, Rodarte’s soft and ethereal red chiffon dress could be seen as an elegant piece in a hyper-romantic collection, however considering the collection in its entirety, elements of the punk rock inspiration start to bleed through. The result is a blend of dark emotion into what ultimately became a product that looked as if it stepped out of a gothic revival romance film, soft and elegant but deep and textured.

Much like its colour pair Resene Sakura, the Gucci pink chiffon dress was a beautiful mix of Asian influence and ‘80s French couture. It was one of the many dresses that brought together multiple elements,

Rodarte Resene Red Hot

in a collection that was focussed on history. The range cited influences including Catherine de’ Medici, ‘70s sportswear and the idea of a Renaissance biker, and marked the first anniversary of Alessandro Michele’s appointment as creative director. Oscar de la Renta also looked to the past for inspiration moving forward.

Having served his first year at the helm of the company, Peter Copping has been praised for showing extreme consideration to the roots of the brand, this season paying homage to the legendary clash of French and American designers at the 1973 Battle of Versailles.

“It was about modernity and the minimalism of American sportswear versus French tradition,” said Copping.

Amongst the colour palette was a pink parallel to Resene Boutique. Copping took the 18th century inspiration and his previous knitwear development experience at Nina Ricci to engineer new high-tech sports fabrics with vintage designs.

Zac Posen Resene Havoc

Colours available from

Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 17

ZOE

photoshoot

CHARLOTTE

CHARLOTTE from RED11 wears NOM*D Basic Dress in Rayon Mesh with Flocked Print and ZAMBESI Skivvy in Fine Black.

RUBY from UNIQUE wears ZAMBESI Stage Top in Blackout.

18 I March 2016

RUBY

WEDNESDAY

ZOE from CLYNE wears JIMMY D Bra Harness.

WEDNESDAY from 62 MODELS wears ZAMBESI A-Line Skirt in Bronze.

CREDITS PHOTOGRAPHER: Caitlan Mitchell; STYLIST: Calissa Teiniker; MAKEUP & HAIR: Eve Sorenson; BEAUTY ASSISTANT: Holly Vander Park

BELLE

BELLE from UNIQUE wears JIMMY D King Of Diamonds pants in Black and NOM*D Kiltie in Black Wool Melton.

BRANDI

HOLLY

HOLLY from CLYNE wears ZAMBESI Long Gloves in Polish, JIMMY D Halter Harness and LUCILLA GRAY Zen Crop Top and Zen Crop Top Long.

FREDDIE

FREDDIE from 62 MODELS wears CALISSA TEINIKER Leather Bralette, ZAMBESI Vintage Shirt in Blackwood.

BRANDI from 62 MODELS wears CALISSA TEINIKER Leather Lace Up Bodice, ZAMBESI Long Gloves in Bronze and ONE TEASPOON Freebirds jeans in Hollywood.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 19

shopfitting

A SHOP FIT FOR A CONSUMER Consumers in this day and age are all about the speed and the accessibility. How fast can they get something, how little can they get it for, how they can get an item with the least amount of steps possible. Cue the term ‘showrooming’. For many retailers, the word is considered a death sentence to their business.

Consumers walking into stores, trying on garments, feeling the fabric and ensuring the right fit, only to then leave the store, look online, and find the same product for a better price. However, in more recent years, the term ‘webrooming’ has come about, the latest phenomenon seen to impact the online retail industry, where customers look up products online but then buy in the physical store. Could ‘webrooming’ be bringing customers in store? If so, is the in-store experience up to scratch when the foot traffic comes back?

Snapchat is a relatively new app to the social media game but certainly not one to be sneezed at. The app, famously known for its disappearing pictures and youthful user base has seen exponential growth across all demographics with an estimated 100 million snaps sent per day. The use of this app isn’t just reserved for the big guns who can shell out millions of marketing dollars, but can serve as a tool to drive customer engagement and foot traffic in-store. Retailers are able to use the app to send consumers a discount offer to spend in-store, in order to redeem the offer, the

customer can either open it when they reach the counter or use their one replay for the day. This process requires the consumer to pick out an item and take it to the point of purchase to cash in on the offer, even if the offer is not the amount they wanted, at that point one would assume they are already in-love with the garment and ready to purchase, would they really put it back? Even so, retailers would have obtained a store visit, one that could have equated to a sale. Building anticipation for new release items can also be used via the app, with snaps sent to customers showing the in-store arrival.

Reasons your bricks and mortar store is susceptible to showrooming could include; merchandise is stacked and displayed like everyone else’s and nothing looks special, you don’t have enough employees or your staff aren’t able to answer customer questions in detail, there is too much self-service involved, or your employees hang around the checkout ‘waiting’. Customers walking into the store still want and need that warm welcoming feeling, a store that is well stocked, a comfortable environment and one where they feel ‘at home’. The proof is in the pudding, in that despite showrooming being a scary thing, stores are still in existence. Now the question is how to make the store a place where consumers want to browse, want to buy and finally – come back for more. A recent survey by Nielsen concluded that 60 percent of consumers actually browsed online before making an in-store purchase.

“It just shows that mobile is not necessarily a threat to bricks and mortar, but more of a complement,” said Sarah Ohle, xAd’s director of marketing and research. “People are using it in-store, they are also using it at home, while on the go and at work.

Everywhere along the purchase process for a retail purchase.” Every retailer wants to gain a customer for life, this can be achieved by integrating in-store, mobile and web experience into merchandising and branding.

All of these tech elements can come together in the physical store design and features. Many companies in New Zealand can offer a wide range of services allowing retailers to refresh their store, either in its entirety or piece by piece.

Millennials have been disrupting the retail game for years now, going by an entirely different set of rules when it comes to shopper behaviour, providing a raft of challenges to retailers and retail designers according to SpaceWorks.

“Our new shoppers which we must welcome with open arms have an incredible focus and military precision to find the best deal and this is done because they are heavily powered by mobile and social media. Basically don’t go underestimating how much time they spend on devices,” said SpaceWorks managing director Lizzi Hines.

Apparel 21 is fashionware.

ERP solutions for the fashion industry that improve your business performance.

• Planning/OTB

• Replenishment

• Manufacturing

• Point of Sale

• Purchasing

• Online Sales

• Shipments

• Financials

• Wholesale

• Reporting and Analysis

• Retail

• Product Lifecycle

• CRM

Management

Phone: +61 3 8415 9300 Email: info@Apparel21.com www.Apparel21.com

20 I March 2016

shopfitting

“Millennials expect a seamless shopping experience and if they don’t get it, they’re making tracks to your competitor who will not only give them a good deal but an extraordinary experience. They’re heading for online experiences in droves, but don’t let this fool you because they want to see the same merchandise, pricing, discounts in-store, online and on their mobile device.” Cost effective tips for retail fit outs stay relatively the same year on year, technology comes and goes but your store remains.

Ensuring the changes you are making to your store fit out will increase your bottom line is key, especially when the major offshore retails are swiftly moving in to town.

Studies conducted about shopper behaviour have found that the right hand side of the store is most lucrative, as shoppers tend to turn right when they first enter a shop. Retailers need to take advantage of this fact and have enticing displays and clever merchandising techniques implemented to the right hand side. Once on the right, a clear pathway needs to be highlighted to the shopper so that they are led on a wandering journey throughout the store, to gain the most eyes on products as possible. Pathways need to be wide enough for shoppers, there is nothing worse than squeezing through gaps or feeling like you are in a maze when it comes to navigating round a store.

Surestyle is a company providing unique end-to-end solutions to one-store retailers through to global retailers. With 40 years of history, we now utilise our combined expertise to deliver high impact, high return store design, fit out and manufacturing solutions, providing clients with one point of contact throughout the journey. We work with our clients to understand and respond to their needs as a part of the larger business and operations effort.

Whilst working in the retail industry, Surestyle noticed the need to develop a range of retail fixtures to answer to the needs of the industry. With now over 1000 product

Retail Design

Full design service for your retail store, including showroom or commercial interior spaces.

lines from a simple sale sign through to a complete merchandising system and recently adding mannequins to the mix you can now deal with one company for all your retail needs leaving you to focus on your core business needs.

With the incorporation of technology becoming an important part of retail spaces this now plays a key role in the design and layout of the store, “Some brands have successfully used social media in-store or have interactive parts to the store. Free wi-fi is increasing so customers can browse and compare on their own devices while in the shop. Some bigger chain stores have a specific area in-store to view all products available online, this concept has also been particularly successful for those in smaller towns, where the physical shop doesn’t display the whole range. How the customer engages with the store and the customer experience has become increasingly important.” In recent times many retailers have been researching their product ranges to analysis what floor/wall space each product range is occupying and what returns they are getting for the space. In doing this research and focusing solely on the core ranges that provide the best return on investment some stores have seen up to a 40% increase in income.

“It is also important to focus on the general look and feel of the store” Even a very plain store can be effective and retailers have generally responded to raised expectations in their shopping experience. For example, chain recycled clothing stores, once musty and search in the bin style, has become much more pleasant in-store experience. There has been a steady increase of natural products and raw material, that has been filtering through all aspects of design.”

With large online retailers opening bricks and mortar stores both locally and international is proving that the retail sectors in still vibrant and relevant with customer experience and interaction becoming increasing important. People still like to get advice from real people before committing to purchase.

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Shop online, call us or visit our showroom weekdays 9am - 4.30pm. 7 Moa Street Otahuhu Auckland Phone: 0800 474 358 Email: sales@surestyle.co.nz

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surestyle.co.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 21

FROM THE ARCHIVES V INKA LUCAS

TOP: Vinka Lucas in the 1980s.

ABOVE: Vinka in Paris, her favourite city, in the late 1960s.

BELOW LEFT: A Vinka Lucas design on the cover of Air New Zealand’s Getaway magazine in May and June 1981.

BELOW RIGHT: Vinka and David Lucas published Vinka Lucas Design Collection during the 1980s.

FAR RIGHT: Vinka Lucas in the late 1960s.

22 I March 2016

Vinka Lucas always said that the colourful and exuberant style that characterised her career in haute couture, was a reflection of her multicultural childhood.

She was born in the Croatian village of Kozica near the Adriatic coast – one of the Mediterranean’s most beautiful areas. Its proximity to Italy, Austria, Hungary, Romania, Albania and Greece meant that Vinka was exposed to a variety of cultural influences. She was skilled in the needlework and embroidery for which Croation women are famed, and later trained in cutting and design in the capital, Zagreb. World War II took its toll on members of Vinka’s immediate family. She travelled to New Zealand to stay with family in Northland and learn English. Vinka hoped to eventually become part of the fashion landscape.

Her first job in New Zealand was in a general store at Maungatapere. She spoke very little English – serving customers by getting from the shelf whatever they pointed at. Vinka was young and vivacious, and would later tell the story of when a male customer came in and told her she was “a real honey”. She obligingly reached for a pot of honey and put it on the counter for him!

Having contrived her own (very individual) style of English, Vinka moved to Auckland in 1955 to work in the fabric department of Price & Dempster. She met her husband David Lucas in the neighbouring manchester department. They married in 1959 and on their honeymoon in Hamilton they discovered a fashion/ dressmaking business for sale. This became the original fashion-and-bridal store, Maree de Maru, a fanciful title which, she explained, meant ‘Marriage of the Brides’ in an anglicised version of her native Croatian.

In 1962 Vinka and David opened Maree de Maru in Customs St in Auckland, quickly attracting a loyal clientele. However, they had their eye on the city’s busiest street, Queen St, moving there in 1966 with a series of spectacular promotions. They painted cars with the prominent slogan “Maree de Maru – now married to Queen St” and held a fashion show of ‘Brides of Different Nations’, which took place along the street’s busy footpaths.

Maree de Maru’s best advertisement was Vinka herself. Each day there was something of a minor event as Vinka would arrive, coming down Queen St in festive array. She didn’t possess any garments in dull colours. Vinka recalled with enjoyment the vibrant Croation celebrations of her girlhood and genuinely wanted her clients to relish the colourful impact she was able to provide. Maree de Maru quickly became a cynosure of attention. Focusing on evening and bridal wear, it somehow combined basically efficient design with a generous modicum of theatricality, which was somewhat less sedate than the ‘look’ to which Auckland had been accustomed.

In time the Maree de Maru shop became just one of Vinka’s enterprises. She opened four more shops specialising in the glamour end of fashion – Modern Bride, Buttons Galore, Stanton Silks and Vinka Lucas After 5. Her Zagreb training showed when in the workroom. Experienced senior machinists held their breath as Vinka would fling extravagant fabric – up to $400 a metre – onto the cutting table, look at it, then go straight in with the scissors. She used no pattern, no pins and no chalk lines. Her workers said she never made a mistake, not once.

Invariably, any design of Vinka’s – streetwear, afterfive or bridal – had its own “little hat”. She always insisted, reasoning that it completed the design and carried the theme of the gown to the wearer’s most important part – the head. Another of her innovations was to establish the Bridal magazine which she and

her husband ran for fifteen years. In 1980 Vinka Lucas became the first high fashion designer from ‘the Antipodes’ to show a collection in the London Fashion Olympics. In 1985 she had the winning entry in the international couturier completion organised by the Association of Voralberger Embroiders of Austria.

By then Vinka and her husband David were spreading their business wings from Auckland to the Arab states, where wealthy women were frequent buyers of luxury fashion. The debut of Vinka style to Arabia was a spectacular parade at the Regency Hotel in Bahrain. Then, in business with Sheikh Abbas Filamban, she opened a salon in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.

Luxury fashion was a focus for the Arab aristocracy and petro-dollar millionaire society wives. Price was no object. Vinka imported chiffon from Paris, lace from Belgium, crystals and velvet from Vienna, silk and embroideries from Switzerland and gold thread from Florence. A Saudi woman in the top financial rank would not blink at a $10,000 gown, and it might be worn only once. Vinka had no trouble adjusting to the strict rules of Islamic law – women’s arms were completely covered and there was discreet veiling of the décolletage. At that time, strict rules in Saudi Arabia also meant there were no fashion magazines, garment pictures could not show a woman’s face and garments could only be displayed on a headless form. Vinka and David imported a large number of shop mannequins from Italy and had to cut off their heads. No men, including David, could be seen in the shop.

In 1986 Vinka and her husband formed a plan to open in Los Angeles, where her penchant for striking design and eye for costly fabrics seemed a natural match for the upmarket level of Beverly Hills society and Hollywood glamour. But at that time the restrictive requirements for foreigners to run a business, or even to live there as residents, proved insurmountable.

Undaunted, Vinka continued to design for her shops in Queen St and Remuera until, in 2009, she suffered a major stroke. Typically, she was on her way to work.

Her daughter Anita, who learnt the trade alongside her mother, continues to run the high-end fabric and design business as Vinka Design & Vinka Brides.

Vinka is unable to be involved in the business, but she continues to take an active interest. Vinka Lucas’s assessment of her own worth was not modest, but nevertheless accurate. She once said, “The fashion world was my oyster – and I created the pearls.”

Words by Max Cryer. Photo by Robert van Hoeve

STUDENTlife

Georgia Lloyd Georgia Lloyd grew up in Red Beach on the Whangaparaoa Peninsula, so naturally she has a pretty active lifestyle surrounded by sports and the beach. Lloyd was heavily involved in local surf lifesaving, triathlons and still finds herself drawn to most water sports.

Currently in Year Four at Whitecliffe College of Art & Design, Lloyd faces her final year and begins to create her end of year collection. This year Lloyd is to create eight looks to present later in the year that is approximately 24 garments. Her recent designs for this year’s collection includes a mixture of swimwear, sportswear and casual active wear. Lloyd is influenced by colour when she is designing and says there is no doubt that there will be some bright, contrasting colours this year.

Of course water-inspired prints will also make an appearance and intends on using natural fibres with recycled materials to reproduce into new innovative textiles. In her practice, she uses recycling and biodegradable properties as much as possible. “Realistically,” says Lloyd, “if everyone integrated a small change into their production or practice, in the way of sustainability or ethics, it would make a significant difference to the fashion industry in the future.”

Whitecliffe has not only taught Lloyd the invaluable skill of sewing, but has taught her to always continue exploring and re-defining who you are as a designer. Lloyd believes she needs to continue to create work constantly to allow her designs to be critiqued and therefore more defined.

The biggest shift in the fashion industry that Lloyd has seen has been the consumers awareness. Stating that they are rapidly becoming more educated and aware of the production and ethics that have been hidden or unspoken in the industry. “Consumers are holding companies accountable for their ethics

NATALYA GIBSON Natalya Gibson from Auckland, had been sewing for just three months before she started her diploma course at NZ Fashion Tech two years ago.

Last December, the 26-year-old won the top prize for Technical Excellence at the fashion institute’s end of year graduation showcase.

The former Howick College student chose to study art and design at school, but she had always wanted to learn to sew. When the opportunity arose at tertiary level, Gibson said she picked it up quickly. “It seemed to come naturally to me,” she said. The technical challenge she enjoyed most during her course was sewing with bias fabric. “I loved sewing with bias fabric.

And I liked the process of translating a garment onto paper and then learning how to construct it to a high standard.”

Gibson said the hands-on teaching of NZ Fashion Tech tutors helped her learn practical skills quickly, which she was then able to cultivate throughout the year.

and impact on the environment and more so supporting designers who are open about what they are doing,” explains Lloyd.

Lloyd gets inspired when she sees people in unique clothes that are different from what the average consumer is wearing.

Especially when there is a practical or functional design featured on the garment.

Interning at French 83, she worked with recent Whitecliffe graduate Nicole Wesselling and saw firsthand the process from inspiration to designing to seeing it displayed in the shop window. As a young company, Lloyd says it was great to see how they worked alongside their manufacturers and customers to produce their collections.

Ultimately Lloyd wants to open her own store, but is currently exploring the benefits of an online store. Lloyd’s dream is to find the perfect balance between design, functionality, ethical and sustainable practices to create a collection that people get excited over.

EMILY CHIN AND CAITLIN BARTHOLOMEUSZ Two Wellington best friends from school days took out two of the top awards at NZ Fashion Tech’s 2015 Graduation Showcase in Wellington and travelled to India in December to immerse themselves in five weeks of further internationalised learning. Both from Te Aro, Emily Chin won Most Commercial Collection and Caitlin Bartholomeusz won Technical Excellence for looks they created at the fashion institute’s end-of-year graduation catwalk show.

Chin and Bartholomeusz’s mini collections were then shown on the runway in India. They were part of 20 diploma students, including six others from Wellington, who were awarded Prime Minister’s Scholarships for Asia.

In the first stage of the New Zealand/India education collaboration, looks were designed and made from hand-woven Indian silk saris for the Resene NZ Fashion Tech Colour of Fashion project as part of their academic coursework.

Once showcased at four public shows at New Zealand Fashion Week, the patterns were taken to India. Chin and Bartholomeusz recreated the garments from a new silk sari for a grande finale fashion show hosted by Bannari Amman Institute of Technology (BIT) at their university campus in Sathyamangalam, 70kms from the city of Coimbatore.

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I 23

KEYpiece

Fashionable Umbrellas It is not uncommon for a functional object to fall into the gaze of the fashion industry, bags, shoes, stationery, wallets have all been accepted into fashion.

In fact, fashion is rooted in taking dull utilitarian objects and transforming them into coveted pieces of art that function as a symbol of self-identity.

Umbrellas are no exception.

While still fundamentally utilitarian in nature, the new wave of styled umbrellas take into consideration the impact a colourful print or decorative applique can have to a customer’s outfit. However, don’t think fashion is reserved just for bold prints, out of the ordinary handles like the skull on the Alexander McQueen umbrellas bring a fashionable touch to customers who want to keep it subtle.

Otherwise there are dedicated labels like London Undercover who produce stylish and functional umbrellas for lovers of fashion. New Zealand also has its selection of brands including Dolly’s Brollys and Annah Stretton who both produce stylised umbrella products.

TRENDwatch

There was a time when sportswear and casual dress were categorically different, but in the modern environment, designers and retailers are looking for more ways to blend athletic gear and everyday garments into one new offering, Athleisure. It makes sense that with the rising gym culture, customers are going to demand more fashionable options, but the trend has moved beyond the gym and perforated the loungewear market.

“These days, activewear doesn’t just stay in the gym, it is being worn outside the gym as well. The sales of workout apparel such as; sweatshirts, yoga pants, and leggings has risen 13% within the year and now account for almost 17% of the total clothing retail market,” said Linda Huang, designer, Lasculpte.

Athleisure has become so big that retailers have begun launching new categories, for example the NetA-Sporter spin off website dedicated to luxury gym gear, not to mention the influx of new brands built specifically around the trend. “With more companies popping up every week, there is now a huge amount of competition offering a wide range of options from

24 I March 2016

ATHLEISURE

low to high end. As the Athleisure market grows people are becoming more accustomed to comfortable and high tech casual wear. This won’t just affect activewear companies but also other clothing markets,” said Gregory O’Connor, founder, Morfa. O’Connor spoke about how Athleisure has introduced new technological focussed design processes that take into account the engineering of fabrics and cut in order to achieve new and practical purposes, for example anti-bacterial fabrics to combat body odour.

However, the trend extends further than the typical gym pants and top. The industry has cast its gaze on workout accessories as well, for example the yoga mats coming out of New Zealand brand MuMu. “Our goal is to be in a yoga class and be surrounded by beautiful yoga mats. All women need a beautiful yoga mat,” said Lara Jane, designer, MuMu. Taking everything into consideration, it is no surprise then that the share price of Lululemon rose 20 percent in the three months leading up to February 2016.

“Sports brands focusing on women such as Sweaty

Betty and Lululemon have helped redefine the female sports market by selling fashionable and feminine gym and yoga clothes that are comfortable,” said Amanda Lintott, Mintel. The trend also falls in line with studies that suggest millennials are looking for function in their purchases. A Mintel study suggested that there needed to be justification for the higher price point, otherwise the age group was less inclined to give the product any value, and justification came in the form of additional performance.

Chain brands have come on board as well, with retailers including Marks and Spencer, Gap and H&M all introducing their own sports lines in competition to the small boutique brands. “The Athleisure trend towards sporty style is not only influencing what we wear at, and to the gym, but is also having an impact on our everyday wardrobes,” said Soozie Jenkinson, head of design, Marks and Spencer. Jenkinson explained how yoga pants and tights are becoming an attractive alternative to the skinny jean, which has long been the go to staple for a multi-functional wardrobe.

CAUGHLEY

RETAILeye

Having only launched in October 2015, Rachael Caughley is developing her namesake boutique into a force to be reckoned with in the Wellington retail scene.

Bringing to the table a marketing degree and previous retail experience, Caughley returned home last year with the dream of opening a space where lovers of fashion would flock to.

“I love just helping people feel good about what they’re wearing. I get a real buzz out of that, just being on the shop floor.” Before opening the store, Caughley spent time in Shanghai, interning for a company in an effort to learn the ropes and build her experiences, knowing one day she wanted to own a retail store but waiting for the right opportunity.

“I spent two years trying to figure out what I was doing. I started, being too scared to email my seniors, and by the time I left I had progressed to an account manager. I knew that if I wanted to open a store, I just needed to do it.” Following an incredibly successful launch party, Caughley has shown continued growth and promise, already in talks about expanding into homewares, specifically candles.

“People want to buy into the Caughley brand, but can’t afford to buy an $800 item. This way they can,” said Caughley. The store stocks a variety of brands, from Auckland design duo Harman Grubisa through to German designer Merz B.Schwanen. Diversity is what Caughley said sets her apart in an already busy retail environment. “We have lots of brands that aren’t extremely well known, or even stocked in Wellington.

So it has made the response incredible.”

While setting up was easy, Caughley said her biggest learning curve has been figuring out the day to day operations of the store, and the development of the Caughley brand. But a prominent location on Ghuznee Street, just shy of the bustling Cuba Street, has ensured a steady flow of customers and a strong level of visibility.

“When you go to other stores you know what you’re going for, what I’m doing right now is developing Caughley into a destination I want people to know why they’re shopping with us.”

The next step for Caughley is to build a strong online presence, developing an online store that is set to launch in October 2016. “There are lots of customers who don’t have access to the brands we stock, so the online store is designed to provide that.”

ACCESSORY ALERT

jacques & sienna

Affordable, fun and quality product that is what designers Jayna Lala and Meegan Rupe thought to themselves when starting children’s accessory brand Jacques & Sienna. “We put our heads together and burned the midnight oil for months researching our market, carefully curating the brand, and then designing each and every one of our pieces from scratch,” said Lala.

Both Rupe and Lala have an extensive history in the fashion industry, both locally and internationally. Lala has owned her own boutique in Wellington, while Rupe was born into the industry, growing up around parents who ran their own fashion business. “I watched my mother sew all my clothes as a child, spending hours going through Butterick pattern books with her,” said Rupe. The duo design a range specifically targeted at kids aged 0 - 12, although it is common for mothers to indulge in

the range too. With stockists in the UK and US, Australia, Singapore, Hong Kong and the Middle East, Jacques & Sienna has seen international success, with plans to extend their reach within Asian and European markets.

“Our goal is to be the number one go to brand for children’s accessories and jewellery in the middle to luxury market. We want to provide a complete coordinated one stop shop for our retailers, but also develop as a lifestyle brand for kids,” said Lala. While the pair doesn’t operate their own flagship store, there is a clear vision for the brand and where it should be stocked.

“We travel extensively in the markets that our brands are sold into to research the market and remain competitive.

As with any brand, to be successful in today’s market, you need to be always aware of your customer and the market that you are in,” said Lala.

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I 25

behind the business

industry according to . . .

JULIE MALONE The air of change From local to offshore, Fiji to China, Bangladesh and Vietnam I have witnessed our fashion industry meander through a river of manufacturing options to feed NZ’s thirst for faster delivery and better price margins. With the growth and now decline of wholesale intermediaries to the domination of the larger retailer producing direct with offshore suppliers and the expansion of their own product development teams fuel this fire.

I was lucky enough to grow up in my parent’s fashion CMT, making high end garments for Jag, Elle Boutique, Thornton Hall, Peppertree, Fidgits, Chow Mein, Mr K, Vamp, Pumperdink and Rage to name a few.

In the early 80’s as the industry moved to service larger retailers with more bulk volume we manufactured price pointed garments alongside the premium brands working with Barkers, Fiorucci, Pumpkin Patch, The Warehouse Clothing, Fountain Apparel, Shanton etc. Our quality never faltered from one end of the market to the other and we took pride in our achievements of more than 25 years in manufacturing.

The highlight of my day was coming home from school to the factory.

I loved to design and sew from aged seven and sewed every day for 30 years, mostly for pleasure!

I am fabric fanatic and still have a vast collection that one day I keep telling myself I will do something

MODEL TALKS Natarsha Orsman

26 I March 2016

with.... But it is hard to find an excuse to cut it!

Entwined in my DNA, I was fascinated with the jigsaw of pattern making and the construction of garments. My view was always, how did that work, or what shape did I need to make to get that fit or drape?

I was lucky to have an amazing teacher who knew the answers to everything it seemed and I was thirsty! My mother taught me to love and enjoy the art of creation.

The drive was so strong and grew into a desire to teach others my skills that were gifted to me through my family business. I developed training programmes and curriculums for garment construction, and patternmaking, teaching full time.

With a honed business head, this further developed into working with the fashion industry from many angles, from human resources to sitting on committees and advisory boards, guest lecturing in our universities on career pathways into the fashion industry and industry needs within the education sector, to promote the changing industry requirements being added to curriculums.

Take a look around and see the many overseas retailers that have set up shop in our malls and shopping precincts wanting a piece of the pie, it scares me to think that the development roles will not be located here in our future.

It is interesting to see and hear that in the last three years or so there has been a real push and drive with the underlying thinking of the up and coming next generation that sustainable and ethically produced

Even though she has only been a model for three years, she has rapidly jumped to the top with her unique look and style. Orsman grew up with a passion for dancing and acting.

The child performer even made an appearance in World Of Wearable Art, where a make up artist advised her to get into modeling. Soon after, at the young age of 14, Orsman sent her photos into a modeling agency.

Now 18 and signed to one of the best agencies in the world IMG Worldwide, she plans to head to Sydney for Resort Fashion Week and then straight to New York. For her first time visiting and working in New York, Orsman’s goal is to be the best she can be and stay financially afloat.

In the three short years Orsman has been in the modeling industry, she has been featured in a number of magazines and editorials all over the world including Russh, Metal, Magazine Magazine Paris, Cleo, Capital, Black and even E’s hit TV show Fashion Bloggers.

Although she has only travelled to Sydney and Paris for modelling so far, she feels the industries overseas are a lot bigger than one might think.

“I feel like the New Zealand industry is not evolving whereas Sydney and Paris are constantly changing and growing. It’s hard to explain the differences in each industry, it’s different for different

fashion is where it is at.

Buzz words some may say but the tsunami is spreading throughout the industry on a global scale.

Sustainable fashion, also called eco fashion, is a part of the growing design philosophy and trend of sustainability, the goal of which is to create a system which can be supported indefinitely in terms of human impact on the environment and social responsibility.

Companies such as Untouched World, Starfish, Icebreaker, chalkydigits & Miranda Brown have been championing this philosophy and rebelling against the fast fashion and disposable society.

Using blends of organic cotton, eco merino, and other sustainable fabrics, green designers are working hard to change all of that by supporting local farmers and manufacturing.

Second to oil, fashion and textiles is the most polluting industry in the world.

There is a two-part solution to making the fashion industry more sustainable. Part one is what consumers can do. Part two is what the industry can do.

Unfortunately, the fashion industry’s business model is currently based on providing more and more clothes, faster and faster, for less and less money.

We need an industry where whether made in New Zealand or offshore that the environmental impact is assessed, fair wages are paid and that the processes support the local economies.

We can make a difference with a different point of view.

Oh by the way you’re flying here tomorrow morning,’ and that’s the hardest thing for me. people and your experience overseas is going to depend on your attitude,” said Orsman.

The opportunity to do something totally different every day and work with different people from all over the globe is Orsman’s favourite part of the job. Even though she is a very organised person, she struggles with how last minute everything is. “I don’t get my schedule until the night before and one day they’ll be like ‘Oh by the way you’re flying here tomorrow morning,’ and that’s the hardest thing for me,” explains Orsman.

Her biggest achievement so far is her editorial in Paris for Metal magazine, but dreams of working with Prada, Alexander McQueen or any of the big fashion houses.

behind the business

SUCCESS UNDER

30

JULIA FORD Head of design and sales at Kathryn Wilson Footwear

Julia Ford was born and raised in Auckland and always knew she wanted to work in fashion. She has been designing her own imaginary clothing and accessories line since she was old enough to hold a pencil.

“My family doesn’t have a history in fashion but my grandparents were creative and I was often shipped out to their place when I was little. They’d set up an ‘art camp’ where they’d have me copying Monets and oil-painting landscapes,” she said.

After school, Ford studied visual arts at Auckland University of Technology. While there she began working for a clothing designer who suggested she do a short fashion course to gain necessary pattern-making and sewing skills. Ford completed the diploma course at New Zealand Fashion Tech as well as a graphic design diploma at Media Design School, so she had experience with CAD and Creative Suites.

“While I didn’t study footwear design in particular, having an understanding of how the fashion industry operates, having knowledge of fabric, sewing and pattern construction and graphic design are all valuable skills when it comes to my job. A great attitude and passion for the industry are also essential.”

At the moment, Ford is travelling around the

country with the SS16 collections, showing them to buyers. Next she’ll be meeting with suppliers in Asia, visiting Kathryn Wilson’s production houses there and researching trends before starting to design the AW17 collections in May. “Every day is different for me and there are many different tasks that come under the head of design and sales role.”

She said the skills most necessary for her work are a willingness to get stuck into any project or area of the business, and “a passion for creating beautiful shoes!”

“My job has taught me countless lessons about how this business works. Designing for an existing customer base is key, being in tune with what they want to be wearing, and knowing what works with their sense of style.” She attributes success at such a young age to having a goal and a clear idea about what she wants to be doing, and then focusing on making it happen. “Avoid taking side-steps if they are irrelevant to where you want to be. Also, surrounding yourself with people who can inspire you on your journey,” she said. In the future, Ford would love to keep designing great ranges of footwear and accessories and hopefully find new and interesting challenges within the industry.

total,” said Hunter.

The Gregory design process is thorough, with its winter collections beginning in June, selling wholesale in August before releasing the winter indent weekly beginning mid January until the end of April, then delivering the trans-seasonal capsule in May/June. “From initial design concept to our customers purchasing is approximately six months,” said Hunter. Letting the fabric influence design, Hunter and the team source fabrics from Japan and all over Europe, while developing an exclusive print

to feature in each season.

For Hunter, the collection comes to life when the campaign is shot. The collection transitions from a range of garments into a cohesive selection of outfits, a moment that is shared by the whole team.

Currently both Gregory and Ricochet are available through its four flagship locations in Newmarket, Ponsonby, Remuera and Wellington, with two new stores planned for mid 2016, along with an extensive list of wholesale clients both locally and in Australia.

inDETAIL

GREGORY AW16 After coming out of early retirement in 2005, Ian Ormond, former director of Ormond Taylor, acquired the Suzanne Gregory brand with a vision to modernise the business. Now known as Gregory, Ormond changed the traditional wholesale business into a retail focussed brand before purchasing Ricochet in 2009. It was around this time Ormond’s daughter Lauren returned from Europe to take helm of both labels, developing them into what they are now.

Lauren’s background in banking and working with luxury brands equipped her to evolve the brand, bringing on new designers and catapulting both Gregory and Ricochet forward. The iconic film Kramer vs. Kramer, from the colour palette to the silhouettes harnessing the mood and tone of the era inspires this season. “The story is important, we are very conscious of designing and offering a cohesive signature range, and in doing this, a story naturally occurs,” said Justine Hunter, director, Gregory & Ricochet.

Japanese wools, virgin wools, and recycled wools from Italy all feature in the AW16 collection, alongside poplin cottons and silks. “It is typical of Gregory; the designs are defined by couture and architecture, this can be seen in the clean silhouettes and strong emphasis on finer detailing and tailoring,” said Hunter.

Small details include smashed buttons and bamboo clasps, both in bright gold, which feature heavily throughout the range, adding to the depth.

“Our garments are proudly designed and made in New Zealand. We release both Summer and Winter indent ranges and then in-season capsules for both high summer and trans-seasonal winter. Four in

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I 27

edited

LONDON TRENDS EVERY MARKET SHOULD TAP

By Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITED

Designers are going through a period of self-reflection.

And it has more to do with commercial strategy than it does creative vision. Last week in New York, Michael Kors and Proenza Schouler punctuated their runway collections by unveiling ready-to-buy options in stores and online. In September, Tom Ford and Burberry are following suit with simultaneous rollouts. Yes, changes are afoot. And the best news is that you don’t have to be a luxury brand to swing this to your advantage immediately.

For retailers one hugely beneficial outcome of this newfound pace is that trends now work simultaneously across all market levels and price points. Sure, you can’t serve out the same stuff just sticking a different price tag on it (though Boohoo and Anya Hindmarch may clash over the latest emoji craze). But there are nuanced ways every market can access runway trends right away.

Here are three big London Fashion Week trends with variations appropriate to the trend-led mass market, the premium market and to luxury. We’ve also looked back at retail to show why these three trends are well timed for commercial success in Fall 2016, identifying recent success story items which these trends are perfectly pitched to move on.

Velvet Boot Trend Fall 2016

2. Velvet Boots

Oh velvet, you sumptuous fabric you. In footwear you scream indulgence, decadence and absolute luxury (you’re hardly the kind of boot that’s stomped across the meadow). Sure, this one is fancy, but given the fabric’s lower price point, it’s more accessible than the suede footwear trend that was such a huge retail success for Fall 2015. Plus, it’s vegan.

So who does what? On the mass market, footwear frivolity is key. There’s a lot of competition out there – retailers like & Other Stories, Zara and New Look

Prairie Trend Fall 2016

THE BIG LONDON TRENDS 3. Winter Prairie Dresses 1. Knitted Co-ords

The co-ord trend is a gift to retail. The separates appeal to consumers economically; a dress can only be styled one way. Meanwhile, the standout styling and the lifted price point are boons for retailers.

This has worked well in the fast-fashion market recently, particularly a $40.00 set from Boohoo that even Kim Kardashian couldn’t resist. It’s also a trend the premium and luxury markets have bought into, with Stella McCartney, Sandro, Ted Baker and Zimmermann all selling co-ord sets in the last year.

During London Fashion Week, there was a charcoal sweater dress and matching cardigan, both trimmed in shaggy bouclé at Christopher Kane, oversized and motif-bearing shapes with trailing hems at Joseph and a longline sweater and cape twinset at Peter Pilotto.

But it’s the below styling’s that will work best for each market segment. The mass market should look to the contemporary print of Peter Jensen’s set (though it’s sweater fabric, not knit per say) and trial a cropped length in both top and skirt. Meanwhile, the premium market can incorporate fun prints and quirky styling like overlong sleeves, with more luxurious yarns. Lastly, luxury should look to Pringle of Scotland’s intricate detailing, which exudes expertise. Complicated technique in a chic, simple palette is perfect for luxury.

28 I March 2016

are big in the shoe game. On the runway, Topshop Unique set the pace with its brightly coloured ankle boots that will appeal to party girls the world over.

At a premium price point, the customer is going to need a little more bang for the buck. A.F. Vandevorst had ideas about how to do that: prolonging the potential life of a velvet boot with a darn chunky sole. It’s a smart move.

In luxury, designers can go full throttle with fitted, over-knee shapes. Not unlike those seen in plum or teal tones at Roksanda and crushed lilac at Erdem.

Okay, so there isn’t really such a thing as a winter prairie dress. But think of this one as ‘historiclooking dress with business about the neck’. By business, we mostly mean a necktie or bow, but it can also be a ruffle or oversized collar. The yet-tobe-named dress was everywhere. It moves Spring 2016’s prairie romance on: this time more gothic and, at times, more alluring.

Key across the breadth of the market is the midi-length and dark palette. A simpler cut will

suit the mass market – think straight shift or a little seventies flare. Premium is the place for a little more colour paired with unusual neck and sleeve shapes. We can see Ted Baker or Elizabeth & James working something akin to Roksanda’s silky gowns into their collections. And of course, luxury can go heavier with complicated cuts and embellishment.

Anyone who watched Vetements’ floral number work its magic on street style stars should keep an eye on this style later in the year.

Sweater Co-ord Trend Fall 2016

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