Apparel Magazine // March 2017

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MARCH 2017 I VOL 50 I NO 3

SUCCESS UNDER 30 pg 22

12 MENSWEAR NEWS 18 ECOMMERCE 26 INDUSTRY ACCORDING TO . . .

ALL-IN-ONE ECOMMERCE, POS & INVENTORY apparelmagazine.co.nz

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HOW DO I CONTACT YOU? It’s getting to a stage where it is just plain ridiculous.

Your website has no information, no email, no phone.

Not even an About Us page, so that I could track the owner down on Facebook. Your Business Facebook page has no email, no phone, no address. So, I ask, how do I contact you?

How hard is it to make sure you have an email, phone and/or an address readily available online? I even tried the White Pages! Don’t get me started on contact us forms.

Useless contact us forms that no replies to, great.

When did building barriers to business become the way to do business? If you don’t want to be a business then do get a website that has no address, no phone number and any calls that do miraculously make it

through are blocked at reception. Please take the time to check your website, your email signature, your business cards, everything. And if you do have your contact details, great! Just don’t forget to pick up the phone.

Starting on March 20th, we are excited to continue our partnership with Vancouver Fashion Week this year. Be sure to watch the shows LIVE on our website www.apparelmagazine.co.nz. iD Fashion Week have announced their Emerging Designers Finalists which can be found on our website, we are also proud to be partnering with iD this month. iD is well on its way so be sure to buy tickets at Reaching the end of a job interview, the Human Resources Officer asked a young engineer fresh out of university “So what starting salary are you looking for?” The engineer replied, “In the region of $125,000 a year, depending on the benefits package.” The interviewer asks, “Well, what would you say to a package of five weeks vacation, 14 paid holidays, full medical and dental, company matching retirement fund to 50 percent of salary, and a company car leased every two years, say, a red Corvette?” The engineer jumps up and says “Wow! Are you kidding?!” The interviewer replies, “Yeah, but you started it.” caitlan@reviewmags.com

Manufactured and patented in 1933, Lacoste’s embroidered crocodile was one of the first designer logos.

The first pair of Dr. Martens boots were made from tyres.

The YKK on zips stands for ‘YOSHIDO KOGYO KABUSHIKIKAISHA’ and is the world’s biggest zip company.

PUBLISHER MANAGING DIRECTOR EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DESIGNER PHOTOGRAPHER ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

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Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com

Until the 17th century men didn’t wear underwear.

Left over from the days when women were dressed by servants, men’s and women’s clothes have buttons on opposite sides. Having buttons on the opposite side made it easier for servants to button up.

ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2016 NZ Apparel Magazine.

I ACTUALLY WORE THIS Clothes We Can’t Believe We Bought

By Tom Coleman

A lot of fashion books will tell you exactly what to wear for brunch in Bermuda or offer a lengthy treatise on the history of the espadrille. They are also very good at presenting rules you should never break – no open-toed shoes while eating an open-faced sandwich, and make it very clear that fashion is serious business. This book is not that kind of book. It celebrates those times when taste takes a holiday, the times when you bought and wore cringe-inducing garments, those items that will forever cause you to mutter, ‘What was I thinking?’. It is a celebration of the fashion missteps of otherwise stylish individuals.

THE ART OF DRESSING: Ageless, Timeless, Original Style

By Tziporah Salamon

Born into a family of dressmakers and tailors who took great pride in their work, street style star Tziporah Salamon’s love of beautiful clothing began at an early age.

For her, dressing is about joy, play, and creativity and every day is an opportunity to elevate the act of dressing to an art form. In this book, Salamon profiles ten incredibly chic women, all over the age of fifty, who inspire her, such as well-known fashion icons like Amy Fine Collins, artist Michele Oka Doner, and dancer Carmen de Lavallade, as well as Marjorie Stern and Ruth Shuman, to make a few. It offers a look into what inspires their wardrobes, revealing the contents of their closets to impart practical tips on how to put together beautiful outfits.

BEAMS BEYOND TOKYO

With Contributions by Sofia Coppolo, Stella Ishii, Toby Bateman, Jonathan Barnbrook, and Nigo.

Beams, which started as a small shop in the Hrajuku district of Tokyo in 1976, has grown into an influential arbiter of international style.

Setting trends for over four decades, Beams puts collaboration at the core of its philosophy, making it a magnet for young designers with crisp and dynamic ideas. The book offers readers an exclusive look at the inner workings of one of Japan’s most innovative lifestyle retailer. Highlighted within are key collaborations between Beams and brands including Adidas, Reebok, Levi’s and Moncler and renowned photographers.

NZ’S ICONIC UNDERGROUND FASHION WEEK iD D U N E D I N FA S H I O N W E E K M A R C H 18 - 26

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ID EMERGING FASHION DESIGNERS FINALISTS NAMED

Thirty-six emerging designers from around the globe have been chosen for the 13th annual Awards. From over 150 entries from 18 countries, the 36 will present their collections at the iD International Emerging Designer Awards Show to be held on Thursday March 23 in Dunedin, New Zealand. “These are fashion graduates who believe in making a difference within the industry,” said Tanya Carlson. iD Committee Chair Cherry Lucas said the Awards showcase the very future of fashion with showgoers able to see the latest textiles and techniques on display.

H&M JOINS THE SEE NOW, BUY NOW MOVEMENT

H&M showcased their Studio line during Paris Fashion Week for the brand’s first-ever ‘seenow, buy now’ show.

Immediately showing the show, the garments will be available for purchase through www. hm.com and in selected stores.

The behind the scenes lookbook features Malgosia Bela and highlights traditional tailoring unexpectedly paired with sportswear elements.

LOVABLE INTIMATES DEBUTS NEW FACE

The new season of Lovable Intimates introduces Ruby Campbell as their new face. Campbell can be seen showcasing the collection in the campaign shot by Pierre Toussaint. This is Lovable’s first major solo campaign starring the up and coming Australian model.

“I’m so excited to be the face of Lovable Intimates.

The collection is really cool and I love how seamlessly it works with my own personal style. I especially love the pieces that can be worn to be

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seen,” said Campbell. The collection was influenced by sporty and minimalist designs, and are intended to be worn as both inner and outerwear. Catering large cup sizes up to a G cup, they also offer lots

MELANIA TRUMP SUES FOR DEFAMATION

The article about the new First Lady was published on Mail Online and stated that her “well-publicized professional modeling career in the 1990s was a ruse, and that she instead worked as an ‘elite escort’ in the ‘sex business’ among other completely false and highly defamatory statements.”

Published in late August 2016, the statement has since been retracted. The article caused her to lose significant value and essentially prevented her from pursuing other commercial brand opportunities, this included apparel, shoes, and cosmetics.

Trump’s attorney argued that the article was libellous, defamatory and had negative economic implications for her current brand and future opportunities. According to the lawsuit, Trump believes Mail Online deliberately published the article “knowing that the claims…were defamatory and knowing that they were likely false and based on completely unreliable sources.” It also states that Mail Online ran the piece with a reckless disregard for the truth and made a conscious choice not to contact anyone who was likely to debunk the claims. The lawsuit is seeking compensatory and punitive damages of at least $150 million.

of movement and comfort. There is a variety of lace longline styles as well as soft cups and contour balconette bras.

“We are thrilled to introduce Ruby Campbell as the newest face of Lovable Intimates. Ruby really epitomises the brand values - an adventurous, free spirited and natural young woman whose authentic style perfectly blends with the brands,” said Brooke Hinman, Lovable’s General Manager of Global Marketing.

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NEIMAN MARCUS TRIALS PLUS-SIZE SECTION

After two years of successful sales in large sizes online, department store giant Neiman Marcus is introducing Last Call Plus Size departments in five outlet stores.

Vice President of Merchandising, Frank Crisci said this kind of customer is underserved when it comes to upscale options. “There is a lot of product out there but a curated assortment of Tahari, Lafayette 148, Eileen Fisher is harder to find,” he said. The new strategy follows a dive of five consecutive quarters of declining comparable-store sales. The new section will span 750 square feet and covers everything from activewear to evening dresses to jeans to coats. All of which will be sized up to 3X and sizes 14 to 24. Twenty percent of the products will be exclusive to the Neiman Marcus. Labels so far include; Marina, Nic + Zoe, Julia Jordan, Not Your Daughters Jeans and Marc NY Performance. According to the Institute for Health Metrics and Evaluation, more than 60 percent of women are overweight or obese in America. “It’s a huge market, and we’re not playing in it,” said Crisci. “If it does well there’s no reason we could not roll this out to all stores.”

NAOMI CAMPBELL DEMANDS MORE DIVERSITY

As a trailblazer in the fashion industry, Campbell is known as one of the most iconic supermodels.

Campbell stated that there is a lack of diversity in the fashion industry worldwide and this is a problem. “When it was put in my face like that, I wouldn’t accept it. There were a lot of women of color [in fashion] before [me],” she said. Although Campbell admitted that the industry is getting slightly better, it still needs work. She also continued to say that magazines, filmmakers and designers should feature diverse women because they should not because they have to cast “a woman of colour”.

“I do feel that Iman and I will not shut up until it gets to the point where it’s equal, balanced. I mean, I just saw a little bit of couture. I did look online at the couture shows and it was a little bit disappointing.

This week we’re starting off in New York. We do a count [of diverse models]. We really hope it’s not going to go backwards, I always try to be optimistic, but if it does, then they will hear us again.”

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PLEASURE STATE’S NEW FACE Pleasure State has announced the new face of its Autumn/Winter 2017 campaign is Nicole Trunfio.

The international model can be seen in the latest photoshoot, shot by George Antoni, exuding confidence as she showcases the new collection.

“I’m thrilled to be working with Pleasure State again. This is my third campaign and each time I fall more in love with the collection than the last.

MONTANA COX IS THE NEW FACE OF BENDON

Each piece is like a flawless work of art and it’s an honour to be back with the team and such an iconic brand,” said Trunfio. She returned to Australia to shoot the campaign after having first worked with the brand three years ago. This year’s Autumn/Winter collection was heavily influenced by British culture and infuses it with a whimsical twist.

For Valentine’s Day, Bendon has announced that Australian model Montana Cox is the new face of the iconic brand. Cox is featured in the new Autumn/Winter campaign shot by Nicole Bentley.

“I have always been a huge fan of Bendon Lingerie, so I’m very excited to be working with the brand.

The pieces are so beautiful and seriously comfortable, I didn’t want to take them off,” said Cox. Cox poses candidly whilst showcasing the new collection from delicate and beautiful pieces through to the dynamic sport collection. “Bendon’s philosophy of supporting natural beauty really resonates with me – I think it’s important for women to feel beautiful and confident at all times and that starts with what you’re wearing underneath. A well fitted and stylish bra can make all the difference.”

Bendon Lingerie is known for its 68-year history of innovation which was well ahead of its time and this Valentine’s Day the brand celebrates with a collection of classic and timeless garments. The much-anticipated Undercover Slimmer range is introduced this season. The Undercover Slimmer range uses advanced technical engineering to create the sleekest silhouette. “We are thrilled to announce Montana Cox as the face of Bendon Lingerie’s AW17 campaign. Montana was an obvious choice as she perfectly encapsulates the brand with her glowing inner confidence and natural beauty. We love the images in the campaign and believe they will appeal to women of all ages seeking beautifully engineered intimates,” said Brooke Hinman, Bendon’s General Manager of Global Marketing.

NZ FAS H I O N W E E K . C O M

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Photo Credit: Anastasia Nenarokova

CELEBRATING THE NZ FASHION INDUSTRY AND ITS CREATIVE TALENT.

AC C E P T I N G

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For more information: Email: admin@nzfashionweek.com Phone: +64 9 377 8033 Social: #NZFW2017

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LOUBOUTIN LAUNCHES EYE PRODUCTS

Christian Louboutin is adding a new category to its makeup range, which will launch next month. Their new four-product category contains eyeliners and mascara, but not eyeshadow which they plan on launching sometime in the future. Christian Louboutin Beauté currently sells perfume, nail polish, and lipstick, in a few selected shades which the new products will match. While the new liquid eyeliner is available in the usual black and brown, Christian Louboutin Beauté is also releasing it in red and teal. The new eye products follow the same high price point as the existing products, with the liquid eyeliner retailing around $75 and a mascara selling for $70. Louboutin’s existing products stand out with distinctive packaging, and the new products are going to have the same ‘jewellery box’ look.

KÉRASTASE GOES NATURAL

Hair-care market leaders, Kérastase, are entering the natural hair product game, with the launch of their new Aura Botanica range. The range is 98 percent derived from natural products, with the remaining percent of non-natural products being only an added fragrance or stabilizer. Kérastase’s struggle with creating a fully natural product was mainly the fragrance and stabilisation. The range is presented in eye-catching deep red bottles, which are made from 100 percent recycled plastic. The range is made predominantly from hand-pressed Samoan coconut oil and Moroccan argan oil, with formulas entirely free of sulfates and silicone. Aura Botanica has been in development since 2013, and Kérastase hopes that this range will help them attract a new market segment - who are cognisant of hair care brands, but primarily concerned with purchasing products that use predominantly natural ingredients. The range consists of four products; shampoo, hair oil, treatment, and mist.

INTRODUCING . . . THE KYLIGHTER Kylie Jenner, makeup entrepreneur extraordinaire, is adding a new product to her already popular

cosmetics line. Her new highlighters, or ‘Kylighters’, were announced by Jenner on her Snapchat and Instagram accounts, in the same manner that she has used to announce other products in her line.

Her Instagram and Snapchat videos showed the entire range of Kylighters open in their boxes, and was accompanied by static images of the boxes lined up, and the different shades swatched. There are six shades, all with a sparkly metallic finish, and named after a sweet type of food. The Kylighters will be available from kyliecosmetics.com and will retail at US$22 each.

BOBBI BROWN LEAVING BOBBI BROWN

Bobbi Brown is leaving her own eponymous brand. Bobbi Brown (the brand) is owned

by Estée Lauder, and will continue to be led

by Peter Lichtenthal, current global brand president, while retaining the brand name.

The catalyst may have been the brand’s 25th birthday, which inspired Brown to ‘start a new chapter and move on to new ventures’.

Brown’s future ventures are still unknown.

GUERLAIN RECRUITS ANGELINA JOLIE

Angelina Jolie has been chosen as the face of their new perfume, Mon Guerlain. Guerlain’s master perfumer, Thierry Wasser, was inspired

by Jolie to create a perfume which captured the ‘notes of a woman’. Jolie has announced that she will donate the entire earnings from this partnership to charity.

HARRY POTTER AND THE PHILOSOPHER’S EYESHADOW

American brand Storybook Cosmetics is targeting fangirls, with their fairytale and fantasy fiction-inspired beauty products. The brand was founded by sisters Erin, Mandy and Missy Maynard in 2016, and has quickly developed an online following because of their wizard wand-inspired makeup brushes. Their latest must-have makeup item is an eyeshadow palette inspired by the Harry Potter series, with shades named ‘Potions’, ‘Prophecy’, and ‘Sorcerer’. Their palette comes in a box that is made to look like an old storybook, with a fold-over cover and a mirror inside (so you can touch up your smokey-eye while on your broomstick).

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REVLON ACQUIRES ELIZABETH ARDEN

Revlon Inc. is going to purchase Elizabeth Arden for $419 million. Elizabeth Arden is valued on the market at $870 million including debt, and is seen generally as unprofitable after posting nearly $400 million of losses for the last two years.

Bank of America and Citigroup are going to spend $2.6 billion to help Revlon with the acquisition, and pay off Elizabeth Arden’s debt. After the acquisition was announced, Elizabeth Arden’s share price increased by 50 percent to $14 each.

Revlon will focus on creating new licenses for fragrances by Elizabeth Arden, expanding their popularity in markets where Elizabeth Arden is already a dominant player such as the Asian region, and helping solidify Elizabeth Arden’s online presence.

SHEDDING LIGHT ON ENERGY SAVINGS

Never has energy efficiency been more topical. Global specialist in energy management and automation Schneider Electric offers safe, reliable and sustainable solutions to monitor this expenditure item closely. The company caters to a broad range of customers, from domestic to business installations, including fashion retailers and manufacturers. According to national sales manager Ras Jayawickrama, Schneider Electric’s latest products help achieve efficiency (and savings) from day one, allowing businesses to manage and control their lighting, refrigeration and air conditioning through one integrated system. If efficiency is one important part of the story,‘experience’is another. “From maintaining the right temperature to making sure products are displayed effectively, retailers want their customers to have a good shopping experience, and getting the lighting right is key,” said Jayawickrama.

Some of the latest solutions coming into the NZ market use wireless technology, which results in lower costs in installation and labour.

In order to make this happen, of course, the first step is understanding how a building or store is performing, and making sure a certain design is meeting customers’ requirements. Schneider Electric’s cloud-based systems monitor the energy load and provide business owners with both live data and detailed periodic reports. By having access to that up-to-date information, owners can even make multi-site comparisons against their whole store network, easily detecting Schneider Electric’s where money is leaking out. national sales manager, “We offer different levels of Ras Jayawickrama. reporting, depending on the

organisation we work with; some might need more detailed data while others can work with basic reports, and we can customise all that,” said Jayawickrama.

Schneider Electric sells through its partner network, which conducts the audit process and comes up with feasible options, but the company also aims to engage with its end users by promoting and educating them on the most efficient lighting control, metering and monitoring solutions.

ON-DEMAND DRY-CLEANING

Laundromap is an app that enables its customers to outsource their dry-cleaning and laundry with the app’s door-to-door service. Laundromap launches within the next few weeks and aims to revolutionise the way Kiwis do their laundry. The app is available on iOS and Android.

Categories in the app range from shirts to pants to linen, and the service picks up the laundry from their home or office at a convenient time for each user. The app also features live updates through a GPS tracking system and informs users through each step of the process.

“We have seen the rise of user-centric applications like Uber, WineFriend and My Food Bag which highlights the growing trend of outsourcing our lives and using technology to our benefit. Domestic chores such as dry-cleaning and laundry have naturally followed and Laundromap is a service offering customers a smarter and simpler way to do their dry-cleaning and laundry,” said Torben Landl, co-founder of Landromap. Dedicated to providing the highest-quality dry-cleaning experience, Laundromap has teamed up with Maxwell’s to carry out its high-end dry-cleaning services. The services will only be available to Aucklanders to start, but are planning to expand to all of NZ and then to Australia in the near future.

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MASSENET’S NEW POSITION NOT SO FARFETCHED

Natalie Massenet, founder of Net-A-Porter, has announced that she will be joining NetA-Porter’s competitor FarFetch, as their nonexecutive chairperson. Massenet left Net-APorter before it merged with YOOX last year.

FarFetch is an ‘omni-channel out of the box’ according to founder José Neves, as it connects with boutiques around the globe allowing for click-and-collect and in-store returns for consumers. FarFetch has been recruiting a bevy of new talent recently, and may be in preparation for an IPO. Web analytics firm Alexa has reported that FarFetch’s daily site traffic is greater than that of Yoox Net-A-Porter.

FIRST TO LIVE-STREAMING RUNWAY ON TWITTER

Social media is taking over fashion week, and making the entire industry more accessible to consumers, with Michael Kors taking the reins. Michael Kors’ New York Fashion Week show was streamed on Twitter, utilising their second-screen functionality which allowed the broadcast to be shown with real-time tweets about the show. This online coverage is paired with a mini-web series, the ‘Kors Commute’ in which Michael Kors has conversations in the back of a limo with fashion industry insiders. The web series was shown on YouTube, Instagram, Twitter and Facebook.

Michael Kors also offered a Shoppable Street Style collection, in which items from his new collection were worn by influencers, then available for purchase via Instagram. Michael Kors’ New York Fashion Week show also heavily utilised Instagram, with Behind the Scenes and Front Row Snapchat Stories, which were taken over by Hayley Viera-Newton for the show. There was also a Michael Kors NYFW Geofilter which show guests were encouraged to use. Periscope has previously proved more popular for streaming fashion shows live, with more than 100 being shown on the online platform.

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CONDÉ NAST AQUIRES CITIZENNET

Condé Nast has bought social data and marketing platform CitizenNet, to deepen its data-science talent and expertise to enrich its Condé Nast Spire. Now its advertising and marketing partners will be able to better reach their desired audiences at scale across all platforms. Terms of the acquisition were not disclosed.

Chief digital officer of Condé Nast, Fred Santarpia said their commitment to investing in quality expands beyond editorial to engineering and data, and is also represented by their recent acquisition of Poetica and CitizenNet. “This is just the beginning of our investment phase, and we will continue to identify, acquire and cultivate brands and companies that match our commitment to excellence as we respond to the rapid changes in the media and technology sector,” said Santarpia.

YEEZY BOOSTS FOR KIDS HIT AUCKLAND

After the launch of the YEEZY BOOST 350 V2 last year, adidas is bringing back the popular shoe in a new black and red colourway. For the first time, the shoe will be available in infant sizing as well. The new V2 features a black Primeknit upper with contrasting red letters that mirror the “SPLY-350” from the original shoe.

Retailing for $390 for the adult and $230 for the infant size, the latest V2 hits stores worldwide on February 11th. In the Britomart adidas Original store, there will be an in-store ballot to win the privilege of purchasing the shoe.

NEW BALANCE DEBUTS A CONTEMPORARY CLASSIC

Designed with the modern urban lifestyle in mind, New Balance has infused its quality craftsmanship with modern performance-inspired details to create a new contemporary classic. The Boston-based label will debut the 247 Classic and the 247 Women’s online and across retailers from March 4th. New Balance’s 247 Women’s comes in three colour-ways, black, white or grey, and highlights a synthetic mesh with a neoprene sock construction that was inspired by technical look, fit and feel for every day, all day wear. The 247 caters to an on-the-go consumer that values craftsmanship and comfort.

CHINESE SCHOOL BANS IMPORTED SNEAKERS

The sneakerhead community at Zijiang Middle School has become quite competitive, forcing the school to ban its students from wearing any foreign branded sneakers. Forcing the sneaker game to end at school, the hobby is still increasingly popular worldwide. The school realeased a statement in February addressing the growing issue of classmates trying to one-up each other with their flashy footwear rather than focus on their studies. “Some students have even told their parents that they will quit school if they aren’t given good shoes to wear,” said one of the Zijiang teachers. Many have argued that the made-in-China sneakers are often more expensive than their imported ones. Another teacher has stated that they have banned expensive Chinese-made sneakers too.

Kaushik Kumar MANAGING DIRECTOR, TCF Fiji has a small, but vibrant garment industry that was established in the 1980s. This industry employs over 6500 employees. With over 35 factories based throughout Fiji, there are a wide range of products being manufactured from corporate to knitwear to swimwear.

Fiji also offers the advantage of close proximity to Australia and New Zealand as well as the ability to offer small runs with quick turnaround times.

Kaushik Kumar, managing director of TCF, said most of the products enter Australia and NZ duty

NIKE CELEBRATES AIR MAX DAY

Three years ago, Nike launched Air Max Day. This year Nike is celebrating with a worldwide release of the longawaited Nike Air VaporMax. The ground breaking design started in 1979 with the Air Tailwind and was felt rather than seen. It was hidden for the first eight years, but in 1987, it became visible and soon evolved into an iconic design.

March 26th is Air Max Day, the global launch of the VaporMax and marks the

30th anniversary of the Air Max 1. “The Nike Air VaporMax is a tremendous example of what happens when we harness the combined insights of our design collective. When designers embrace the technology, and push its potential, we have a boundless future.

Just as the Air allows us to run forever, it allows our imaginations to ponder near limitless permutations,” said John Hoke, Vice President, Global Design for Nike.

free subject under SPARTECA and Developing Country preferences. The TCF Council of Fiji is the industry association and responsible to oversee the interested of the TCF sector. They run their own Social Compliance and Quality Assurance aduit under its Make It In Fiji initiative. In this, there are 11 companies which are certified and are highly committed to quality and continuous improvements.

These factories respond well to customer demands.

Fiji has an English-speaking workforce which makes communication very easy.

“Our close proximity to Australia and NZ makes it logical to deal with someone who is just 3-4 hours away by flight. Certain factories are certified for Social Compliance and Quality Assurance, therefore giving the buyer confidence that they deal with an ethical maker. Fiji can respond to small orders and deliver quickly,” explained Kumar.

Sourcing raw materials come out of Australia, New Zealand and Asian countries. The TCF Council also participates annually at the Sourcing Fair in Australia and promotes the industry as a whole.

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GUCCI’S FIRST UNISEX SHOW

ICONIC SPORTY STYLES

March marks the second drop of Adidas Originals by Alexander Wang that was unveiled late last year. Playful riffs on adidas’ iconic sporty styles feature in the collection as well as track jackets, track pants, shorts and sneakers. Small parts of the collection will be launched over time, and the pieces are unisex taking familiar Adidas brand signatures and challenging them to become newly and defyingly symbolic.

MONTI CASTELLO INTRODUCES RUSTIC KNITS

The Monti Castello tie collection was launched into New Zealand to provide retailers with a stock collection of Italian made perennial classics. This still forms the basis of the brand. However, since its inception, the collection has expanded to incorporate the country’s largest range of luxurious printed pocket squares including 4 designs on a fine wool twill this winter, scarves and more recently, cufflinks with inlaid stones. While the silk tie collection remains true to its conceptual roots – classic luxury – this winter, a series of limited edition knitted ties are available. Not even falling into a ‘classic’ knit tie aesthetic, these are distinctly casual, made using a blend of raw silk and cotton.

The textures are rustic and the handle soft. The three photographed form part of a washed denim tonal story, whilst other designs use rusty burgundy and olive green, with camel and rose highlights. For more information contact Parisian on 09 303 4129.

Gucci decided to host its first unisex event in Milan for autumn-winter 2017.

The show was focused on flowers and animals with a nod to Alexander McQueen. Guests were sent a vinyl record invitation with the message ‘What are we going to do with all this future?’. The new season continued the gender fluidity of previous collections that featured a mashup of disparate parts with an underlying ‘80s aesthetic. Accessories included three handbags strapped together, giant rings stacked on models hands and the handbags featured more insects from butterflies to bees.

ANGEL MODELS FOR CALIBRE

Australia’s own Victoria’s Secret angel Bridget Malcolm will feature as the first female model in Calibre’s new autumn/winter campaign.

The brand’s marketing and PR manager Mark Coombes said that Malcolm was the perfect choice for the campaign. “She is aspirational, intelligent and most importantly, she has a unique connection with both men and women,” said Coombes. “Behind every stylish man is a savvy woman that influences what he wears and when it came to our autumn/winter campaign, we thought we would take the opportunity to tell that story.” Fellow Australian model Jarrod Scott also features in the campaign that is shot by photographer Jake Terrey.

ONE SMALL STEP FOR MENSWEAR

Buzz Aldrin became the first astronaut to walk at New York Fashion Week when he modelled for Nick Graham. Aldrin said his astronautics degree came in handy on stage. “I wasn’t sure what side to get on,” said Aldrin. “If I walked too close to the people, then not enough of them would see it.

I’m always calculating time and distance.” Aldrin joined scientist Bill Nye on the catwalk.

GAP REISSUES FAVOURITES

Gap has announced it will be reissuing a few of its best-selling and most iconic styles from the 90s as a token of appreciation for customer’s appreciation.

“The ‘90s is having a sartorial moment and we have an archive of pieces that set

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the tone for that decade commercially and culturally,” said chief marketing officer Craig Brommers. “It seemed right to reissue some of those pieces and the stories that come with them.” A ‘90s-inspired commercial featuring a few children of the original Gap models including Diana Ross, Steven Tyler, and Demi Moore, launched in February which also featured Naomi Campbell.

Actor Evan Ross, the son of Diana Ross, is pictured here wearing the sleeveless Logo Tee as a tribute to his mother who wore a simple tank in her 1991 ad.

THE WEEKND LAUNCHES H&M COLLECTION

In a move into the fashion world, singer The Weeknd has launched a capsule menswear collection at H&M that includes a selected range of urban streetwear for the new line called Spring Icons Selected by The Weeknd. The range features bomber jackets, hoodies, printed t-shirts and slim fit jeans in muted colours of khaki, beige and black with the singer’s XO logo running throughout. “I had a great time selecting my Spring Icons at H&M,” he said. “I love the mix of urban pieces like bombers and hoodies with tailored shirts and blazers. Every piece is both effortless and fresh, which is just how menswear should be.”The singer follows in the same footsteps as athlete David Beckham in releasing a menswear collection for the high-street retailer as well as joining a growing number of musicians.

Vlad Tichen MENSWEAR STYLIST

NAVY BLAZER

If you happen to wonder what item of a gentleman’s wardrobe would allow one to seamlessly combine different pieces of clothing and elevate the most casual look to the appropriate level of dressiness, I sure have an answer for you.

Okay, are you ready? Ta-da! It’s a navy blazer!

And it’s something every guy must have in his closet. Really, it’s a lifesaver!

Say you’re chilling at home like a boss, having spread yourself evenly over the couch, Netflix is on and your evening is full of wonderful possibilities: Italian takeaway and Game of Thrones or Thai and The Real Housewives.

And then this happens. Just when you’re least expecting it, you get a call from your best friend saying that he’s driving to your place right now, and that he’s expecting you to be downstairs in two minutes and sixteen seconds, because he’s got a spot for you at some posh dinner – not too formal, but fancy nonetheless. A 32-course degustation menu, a personal chef from Belgium, and the most promising company. What could be better?

And you suddenly realise that this is it. This is that chance you’ve been waiting for – the moment you finally get to turn your shitty life around. This is the moment of truth. The light has started shining upon you and you’re hearing the horns of angels.

But then you find yourself mumbling. “Dude …

Impossible. I’m in my jeans and a tee-shirt. There’s no way I can dress appropriately in two minutes and sixteen seconds.” And he’s like, “Goddammit!

C’mon, buddy! Don’t you have a navy blazer or something?” And then it dawns on you. “Holy crap.

I do. I DO HAVE A NAVY BLAZER!” You jump off the couch like a seasoned athlete, grab your beautiful, well-cut jacket, and put it on top of your white tee. Then you quickly pin-roll your Acne jeans, put on a pair of brown loafers, and that’s

it! You even have fourteen seconds left to add a white pocket square to the mix. You now look like a real prince and start singing Pretty Woman while flying down the stairs towards your orgastic future, the Green Light, and all that other Gatsby stuff.

Who would have thought that a simple navy blazer could have such an impact?! For this guy everything was quite easy. He’s just put his amazing jacket on and got completely transformed. But big work was done before he got this blazer in his

Ideally, you want to have a style that would match most of your stock. And when I say ‘most of your stock’ I really mean it. Beige, white, and brown chinos; button-down, cut-away, and band-collar shirts; plain tee-shirts; and simple knitwear. All these garments are quite different, but they too can be put together with the help of Mr. Navy Blazer.

All you need to do is come up with the best suitable style. That, of course, depends on the selection you have, but generally you always want to aim for the golden mean.

The style of blazer that I consider the most versatile includes the following characteristics:

wardrobe. And that’s our business. Serious menswear business.

If you’re a good menswear retailer, there’s a lot to think about when it comes to choosing the right kind of navy blazer. It could be made of fine wool, pre-washed cotton, or even linen. You’ll be able to find styles with a well-structured shoulder, softer ‘Italian’ shoulder, or with no padding at all.

Nowadays, the fabrics, construction, and variations of this garment are close to countless.

• Soft shoulder padding – not too strict, but with a good shape; • Some kind of structure – either half-lined or fullylined; • Made of thin, good quality wool – for all-yearround wear; • The fabric is obviously plain, but the weave of it might be quite interesting. For instance, hopsack would do.

• Patch pockets – which give the garment a certain level of casualness, making it seem different when compared with a suit jacket; • Slightly shorter in length than a suit jacket; • The option of adding elbow patches. I’d probably stick with the same fabric – again, for the sake of versatility; • Interesting buttons. I personally like dark brown leather ones, similar to those that have been used on traditional English hunting and countryside jackets. Natural horn is a good option as well. I wouldn’t recommend the metal ones – they are a little bit too old-school.

If all of these points are ticked and you’re happy with the outcome, oh my, you’re gonna sell a lot of those navy blazers. I can promise you that.

But, most importantly, you’ll make a lot of your customers happy. And that’s something, right?

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I 13

Olivia Carr spent 18 months working as a general manager for Pacific Brands where her role was to gain insight into the rapidly growing world of e-commerce.

During her research, she soon developed a personal love for online brands particularly ones started from social media. “It had become an obsession; I was sure that one day online retail was going to be much bigger than traditional bricks and mortar retail was today, and I knew someday in the near future I would start my own online global brand,” Carr explained. “I just wasn’t sure what that brand would be.”

An entrepreneur from an early age, a five-yearold Carr would fill up empty juice bottles and fill them with water and rose petals. She would then knock on her neighbourhood doors selling them for $3 marketed as perfume. Homemade stalls were a common occurrence at the bottom of her driveway selling toys and books that she no longer required.

At age 12, Carr started selling lollies for Spastic Society three nights a week after school and recalls making 50 cents for every bag she sold. Following this, she worked the usual paper rounds and then boundary umpiring football at 15 alongside two other part-time jobs. “Working hard has always been in my DNA,” she explained.

In May 2015, Carr decided it was time to take a leap and resigned from her job. Soon after, she

14 I March 2017

was off on a family trip to America for five weeks.

Carr decided that whatever brand she started had to be two things; simple and elegant. “There is much to be said about simplicity.

In a world where things are already so complicated I wanted to create a brand where simplicity also brought passion, love, peace, and happiness to my world,” she said. On her first day in New York, she unpacked her beauty sleep essential, a silk pillowcase. Carr said she was instantly drawn to the homeless in New York.

The overwhelming effect it had on Carr and her children made her and her family want to help. “That was it, I knew when I finally launched my online brand – community and giving back would be at the core of what we do. I had to create a bigger goal, a brand so big that we could help even more people across the globe. This started a burning desire within me to make sure whatever I created, it would one day impact the world,” Carr explained.

When she returned to the hotel after a long day of exploring, Carr discovered that her silk pillowcase had been removed and sent away to be “laundered” never to be seen again. Carr spent the next five weeks getting used to cotton hotel quality pillowcases and soon discovered all of the reasons why she was obsessed with her silk one. “What a significant difference it made to my skin, hair and ability to sleep peacefully each night. On reflection, losing my pillowcase was the greatest gift I could have received.”

Founded in October 2015, Shhh Silk can be purchased directly through their website www. shhhsilk.com. They are the first silk pillowcase in the world to have a silk marble print pillowcase, where traditional silk pillowcases are plain and neutral colours.

Shhh Silk introduced a hidden zip into their pillowcases which ensure they sat nicely on customers’ beds as silk or satin pillowcases commonly slip off the pillow. “Another point of difference to our brand is our rapid range expansion; we have moved out of purely silk pillowcases to now selling silk travel accessories, silk filled pillows and our newest range our luxury silk sleepwear,” she said.

With a team of six staff, Carr works closely with her trusted and highly skilled remote contractors. The only thing Carr regrets is not hiring her graphic designer sooner. Lilly is a valued team member and a great fit for the brand. Previously Shhh Silk used freelance graphic designers.

Shhh Silk’s aesthetic is best described as minimalistic yet modern with a low maintenance luxury.

Carr pushes the brand to create trends and push boundaries to get noticed. “We are always looking outside the box and then outside again, nothing about our brand is conventional. We want unique, desired and loved from everything from design to customer service.”

The first product by Shhh Silk was black and off-white pillowcases. Opportunities for Shhh Silk to progress are found mostly online as e-commerce continues to grow rapidly. “I think there is still so much opportunity in the personal shopping experience – as now that we live in the digital age the need for personal touches is critical.”

Her biggest challenge so far has been learning how to deal with manufacturing in China. “I will probably write a book on this topic one day to help other start-ups understand the challenges, differences in culture and the way the Chinese factories like to do business,” she added.

Other obstacles include remaining around the global economy as they operate in USD and said it was important that the economy remains strong.

Carr believes skill shortages will be a future problem as schools are not adapting their curriculum at the same pace as ever-evolving technology. “Technology, innovation and I.T related skills are more important now than ever,” she added.

RUBY

AUTUMN/WINTER 2017

RUBY’s new collection is a continuation from their Pre-Fall 2017 collection ‘La Collezione’ which was an ode to an Italian Princess. “This half of the collection is much more romantic and whimsical, with touches influenced by Italian designer Piero Fornasetti,” said Deanna Didovich. All of RUBY’s collections include a transseasonal element, whether it’s a jacket or silhouettes that can be layers, as this is always an important part of the range because of New Zealand’s unpredictable climate.

A highlight in the new AW17 range is the Ophelia Coat in Steel Blue. Didovich said she cannot wait to get her hands on the Hydra set which features a cropped trouser and blouse combo in a soft wash chambray which was designed for work and the weekends. Ensuring that they are creating something that is relevant, new and exciting is their biggest challenge, especially in an environment where there is so much choice. The turnaround from conception to stock delivery takes a few months but can change depending on the season.

Over the years RUBY has slowly transitioned into producing smaller collections more frequently throughout the year and currently produce between six to eight RUBY collection per year. RUBY also produces approximately 60 percent of their collections locally and 40 percent offshore.

“We have a really strong relationship with all out factories and have an Ethical

Policy to ensure our product is manufactured under fair and safe working conditions.

We are very honest and open with our production processes. You can find everything you wish to know about our RUBY Ethical Policy on our website rubynz.com/ ethical-policy,” Didovich explained. When starting a new collection, Didovich said deciding to start with fabric or design completely depends on the mood she is in.

“Sometimes a fabric or print will set the tone for the collection, yet other times it will be a simple idea that will set the wheels in motion.”

RUBY’s textiles are sourced from a number of local and offshore suppliers. This particular collection showcases a mixture of textiles to reflect its trans-seasonal nature.

Some of these include; wool meltons, hammered print cotton, washed chambray, distressed denim, and sand washed tencel. The colour palette is a mixture of RUBY neutrals; navy, rose and khaki, with hits of sparkle and divine merlot red.

The print designs are created mostly in-house. “Our collections will always have strong signature prints as this is such an important part of the RUBY aesthetic,” she added. Didovich also said the team loves to give their customers an insight into their design process and how the collections come together. “It helps to bring them to life and is a really important process to help the flow from design through to creating our beautiful imagery.”

DENIM basics are more exciting than ever!

Pretty, colourful embroidery is the new, on-trend way to embellish denim. Embroidered denim has been popular with both high-end designers and high-street brands. The denim embroidery trend started with denim jackets, which are predominantly embroidered around the yoke.

The trend has progressed to other denim items, and is now popular on denim skirts (mainly A-line shapes), jeans and shorts. Jeans feature embroidery down the side of the leg or around the waist. Embroidered jeans, skirts and shorts are generally embellished only on the front, leaving the back unadorned. The trend is less popular with denim overalls and denim dresses.

Embroidery is prevalent a variety of colours and designs, but is mainly floral and feminine. Floral imagery is the most popular embroidery design, and uses bright hues and feminine designs.

Pricing for embroidered denim varies from medium to high, depending on the brand, but does not differ greatly from denim without embroidery. Denim is also currently embellished with patches (sold both pre-attached and separate), and with painted or printed designs, although embroidered denim is the prevalent trend.

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I 15

Fur Fox’s Sake

Resene Sebedee

Blumarine

Couture designers are keeping us warm through the winter with a slew of fur jackets being shown through the Pre-Fall/ Winter 2017 collections. A departure from the staid, realistic look of your grandmother’s mink; these candy coloured confections are eyecatching and modern.

16 I February 2017

Resene Paper Doll

Dior

Resene Rock N Roll

Each x Other

Karl Largerfeld’s collection for Fendi Pre-Fall/Winter 2017 showed every fur jacket imaginable, from twotone capes to bomber-style jackets. Largerfeld created a palette which was muted, with a vintage-inspired feel, and playful splashes of colour. A knee-length fur coat in a buttery shade of yellow close to Resene Cream Can perfectly epitomised the maximalist collection. Accessories were plentiful - sunglasses, gloves, scarves, and lace tights - and gave the modestly cut clothing a youthful verve.

MaxMara’s Pre-Fall/Winter 2017 collection had a distinct ice queen feel, with stark white tones dominating the first half of the show. While the clothing had a classic, ladylike feel, the slicked back hairstyling and dramatic black lipstick gave the collection a fresh look.

Feminine silhouettes were predominant, with wide belts layered over dresses and outerwear alike. The white hues gave way to blacks, charcoals and then pale turquoise

Resene Half Opal

Elie Saab

and lemon - giving the collection a 1980’s feel. Fur coats completed the wintery look, shown in both hip length and calf length, in white, camel and a light blue close to Resene Pattens Blue.

Blumarine are no strangers to brightly coloured fur coats, having used them in several previous Fall/ Winter collections. However, the 2017-2018 collection was more maximalist than previous collections, incorporating printed fabrics, pleats, lace, and tweed.

Fur coats were featured in a variety of cuts and hues, from an orange akin to Resene Sebedee to leopard prints with a blueish tinge. Embracing the unnatural, Blumarine’s furs were statement pieces, and bought a millenial, street-style feel to the collection.

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second collection for Dior balanced forward-thinking design with the French house’s chic heritage. The aesthetic was an intriguing melange of equestrian inspired shapes, floaty mesh

Colours available from

Resene ColorShops

www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363

Resene Cream Can

Resene Princess

Fendi

accents, and embroidery reminiscent of folk-dresses.

The concepts may sound conflicting, but the result was an eminently wearable collection, filled with femalefriendly pieces, and impeccable tailoring. Chiuri has welcomed the logo-mania currently trending, bringing back the J’adore Dior motto, which she used sparingly in small black and white letters across the waistband of high-waisted underwear, shown under a mesh ballgown. Fur played a small, but noticeable, part in Chiuri’s collection, with shrug style jackets in a shaggy wool, and longer jackets in soft fur. The collection’s most striking jacket was made up of pentagonal patches of fur in whites, greys, browns and soft pink tones similar to Resene Paper Doll.

Riccardo Tisci staged a futuristic show amidst a dramatic architectural setting in Copenhagen. Tisci’s new look for the Givenchy woman was an eclectic mix of influences, subtly blended together to create

Givenchy

Resene Pattens Blue

MaxMara

an impeccably tailored collection. Vibrant hues underpinned the standout looks from the collection; as Tisci combined deep red, with sunshine yellow and a soft pink hue similar to Resene Princess. The pairing of a soft pink fur jacket with red tights was an unorthodox, yet eye-catching colour blocking statement.

Elie Saab’s models were a vision of rocker-chic at his Pre-Fall/Winter 2017 show. Garbed in black, with leather accents and splashes of green velvet, Saab’s collection was a progression of the disco feel of his Spring/Summer 2017 show. Saab’s feminine tailoring was complimented by touches of delicate lace, which created the whimsical aesthetic that epitomises Saab’s designs. Embroidered leather jackets and dramatic fur jackets added to the rock ‘n roll vibe, with furs shown in both monochrome and a light blue similar to Resene Half Opal.

Each x Other’s collection had a modern feel, with

Resene Glamour Puss

Miu Miu

urban influences and unique design elements. The traditionally androgynous brand showed a palette of deep, muted tones, accented with occasional pops of red similar to Resene Rock N Roll. The collection featured slim-fitting suits for women, soft silk ruffles and distressed denim pieces. A refined air typified the collection, and the fur jackets, despite their statement item status, seemed restrained and sophisticated.

Miuccia Prada often imbues her little sister brand, Miu Miu, with vintage vibes. Her Pre-Fall/Winter 2017 was no different, drawing inspiration from 40’s and 50’s silhouettes, styles and accessories. Varsity jackets and poodle skirts were thick on the ground, with Miu Miu’s signature girly accents everywhere. Fur coats were unmissable, cut with thick lapels and shown in eye-catching animal prints or red or pink, close to Resene Glamour Puss.

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I 17

IT’S TIME TO EMBRACE ONLINE

Ecommerce is considered integral to today’s retail business models, because when done well, the opportunities to attract large volumes of customers and boost sales is enormous. What’s more, customers the expectation that a brand has an online offering is continually increasing.

So, is adopting ecommerce worth the investment? Let’s consider the economic advantages of an ecommerce offering.

KIWIS ARE SPENDING UP BIG ONLINE: Latest figures from Bank of New Zealand reveal online retail spending in 2016 totalled $3.75b, with spending from local stores in December up 13% on the previous year.

CONSUMER CARD SPENDING STRONGEST IN A DECADE: Latest data from Statistics New Zealand shows consumer retail spending using electronic cards was $5.1b in January, with the largest percentage increase in 10 years.

THE GLOBAL RETAIL MARKET IS WORTH TRILLIONS: eMarketer has forecast worldwide retail ecommerce sales to increase to $4.057 trillion by 2020, driven in part by greater mobile and internet penetration, increased ecommerce competition, and the expansion of new sales categories.

The opportunities for New Zealand retailers to crack the global marketplace is huge. If you are one of those retailers yet to establish an online store, now is the time.

Starting out in the online marketplace can be challenging. Before investing in an ecommerce platform, there’s a few key things to look for in.

Here are my top three: • An ‘all-in-one’ solution: This means the platform allows you to efficiently design, setup and operate your store across multiple sales channels, including web, mobile, eBay, social media and bricks-and-mortar locations, plus offers direct integration with popular accounting, marketing and analytics apps.

• A native shipping system, to allow integration with local shipping carriers: Today’s online customers enjoy multiple shipping options and a speedy delivery.

In fact, 82% of customers expect more than one day to be the maximum delivery time.

• Inventory Management: I recommend choosing a system with inbuilt inventory management so you can keep your inventory synced across all your sales channels. It will also help reduce costs and meet demand If you’re looking for a complete retail management platform, Neto provides a complete solution for ecommerce, POS, inventory and fulfilment. Retailers and wholesalers use Neto to sell online, in-store and through marketplaces like eBay and social media.

By Tony Pearson, Director of Sales Channel Development at Neto

Not all eCommerce platforms are created equal.

ALL-IN-ONE ECOMMERCE, POINT OF SALE & INVENTORY Build an online store, manage your inventory, and process sales from your bricks-and-mortar store, your eBay store, and on social media, all from one platform.

CALL +64 9877 6996 www.neto.co.nz

18 I March 2017

Omni Channel

End To End Commerce

Global Expansion

Tailored Implementation

Multi Brand Multi Site

Digital Strategy

POS THREATENED

eStar’s chief technology officer, Matt Neale details why traditional POS is being threatened by new customer journeys.

The increasing expectations and sophis-tication of the instore experience is evolving rapidly, there has been a lot of attention and effort put into this as retailers have responded to the increasing reach of online retailers. Much of this change is being driven by the consumers, who are demanding that the same levels of access to information and immediate service they have online, are available in store.

POS systems are becoming increasingly connected within the overall business system architecture, and retailers who are clinging to systems that have limited capability for integrating to other systems, are finding themselves increasingly struggling to adapt to the rapidly evolving customer purchasing journeys. This fusion of the online store with the physical is seeing the demands being placed on POS, ultimately being met largely through ecommerce platforms.

Ecommerce has been designed from the outset to scale in ways POS has never had to, to provide a high level of self-service and rich information – think product reviews, full descriptions and specifications, these are generally not available instore, and a much wider array of payment options. The time is here where the question for retailers is ‘do you need a traditional POS system?’ Traditional POS systems are expensive to deploy and maintain, and changing to a new one is a daunting project for any retailer with more than a handful of stores.

The digital store has arrived in the physical store,

and ultimately the customer experiences on the shop floor are changing. In store sales assistants now have the opportunity to sell physical stock that they may have in their supply chain, but not in that store. An example of this is Kmart’s Ship My Pants, if you can’t find what you are looking for in store, a Kmart assistant will find it for you on www.kmart.com and ship it to you for free.

Not that long ago, there was a perception that ‘pure play’ online retailers had an advantage in reaching customers with information, offers and cost savings. But now the ‘bricks and clicks’ are finding that they hold the advantage with physical presence and the tangible experiences they can create with product, service and presentation. The fusion of the digital and physical stores is a competitive advantage in the customer journey, as retailers aim to exceed the new expectations of their customers and the offerings of their competitors.

It is important for retailers to look beyond their traditional POS systems to emerging players in this space, and for opportunities to leverage the systems they already have that can complement and extend their current offerings. This means functionality that enables customers to order in store, to take advantage of the increasingly personalised offer that has, until recently, only been available online, to have access to their orders history, and to provide a complete view of the customer to enable increased loyalty and spend through a seamless and elegant customer experience.

BEHIND EVERY CLICK

For Solutionists clients 2016 was a big year. The ecommerce specialist’s top 10 performing web stores invested an average 2.5 percent of their online revenue on website development last year to get a 53 percent increase in web sales – a small price to pay for big returns it seems. Website development was primarily focused on site refinements and new features such as click and collect, abandoned cart remarketing, conversion rate optimisation, new payment options and electronic gift cards. In essence, features that focus on increasing basket size, website conversion and customer experience.

The numbers prove that a basic platform with good product offerings is no longer enough to survive in today’s digital age where competition looms behind every click, but e-Retailers who are continuously re-investing in their ecommerce platform to compete in this environment are coming out on top. The BNZ Online Retail sales report released in December shows online spending grew by 14% when compared to December 2015, and offshore sites saw a 17 percent increase. What’s more, December was the 13th consecutive month to see double digit growth in online sales. Bricks and mortar stores could not keep up and averaged a 4% growth rate in sales for the month of December.

Clearly online business is going strong and ecommerce undeniably opens up a whole worzld of opportunities, but with technology ever-changing and competition always growing, e-Retailers need to make smart decisions. What was best practice a few years ago, cannot compete with ecommerce benchmarks of today. Your competition is no longer limited to the store down the road, market leaders 10,000 miles away all want a piece of your pie. Don’t let them have it. Crunch the numbers, set your budgets and make the right investments to allow for growth.

Do you think it’s time to upgrade your online platform?

Visit www.solutionists.co.nz

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I 19

ACHIEVING DEMANDING KPI’S

Having been with DSL since the company was formed thirty years ago, John Widdows, he is now a director and general manager. The company started off as a customs clearance and freight forwarding operation but became involved in third-party logistics some 15 years ago. Today, most of the DSL clients are either retail chains or wholesalers supplying retailers in their fast-moving consumer goods sector, mainly apparel and footwear.

The company provides a range of e-commerce fulfilment services to retailers. Often, the online store is the largest store for our clients. Fulfilling orders direct from consumers is essentially no different from sending allocations to stores, but it has different challenges. Consumers expect immediate fulfilment and total accuracy. On the whole, DSL strives to achieve demanding KPIs of 99 percent for allocations to stores, anything short of 100 percent on online sales to consumers could result in a lost client, so they aim a lot higher for those orders.

“Our clients benefit from total online visibility of stock and movements using the software that we have developed and perfected in the last fifteen years,” said Widdows. “They can track the order from the moment it is sent to us until the consumer signs for the parcel. We also handle returns and collect data on return reasons, which we use to generate reports for our clients. Internet fulfilment started for us as an add-on to the normal function of sending allocations to stores, but it has grown in volume and has become an increasingly important part of not only our but also our clients’ business.”

For more information, contact John Widdows at john@dsl.co.nz or visit www.dsl.co.nz.

AVOIDING A LOGISTICAL NIGHTMARE Local logistic companies are upping their game to keep up with the rapidly growing sector after an increase in garment movement in the New Zealand apparel industry and worldwide. With the apparel industry continuing to change and develop, fashion logistics companies are facing particular challenges. Intense competition and spending is limited and customers are forever changing the ways in which they buy.

This chopping and changing requires the fashion supply chain to become even more creative and responsive in order to stay ahead of their customer base.

Trend analysis in the fashion supply chain has highlighted a surge in e-commerce and m-commerce (mobile commerce), that has dramatically increased in market share. With mobile devices, apps and data availability (free wifi etc) customers are buying everywhere and anywhere and have instant access to buying at their fingertips.

This accessibility also allows them to share quickly and widely a positive or negative experience and can encourage localised geographic peaks in demand. Consumers expect a fast home delivery at little and often no cost. Click and collect has provided a faster service than home delivery and has grown in market share but has become a royal nightmare for retailers with the store having to cope with receiving, storing and managing the customer orders, but has opened up another door of selling opportunities.

Return rates have also seen an increase alongside the rise in e-commerce and it is crucial for retailers to process returns quickly to maintain availability and to ensure that as much stock as possible is re-sold at full price. Cost of mark-downs and lost sales will increase significantly if the return process is not managed diligently and quickly by staff. Although returns can be a hassle, there is a commercial opportunity for a return to generate additional profit given it provides further direct contact with the customer, which is especially true if the return is to a store.

Inventory levels in stores have seen a decline, as they are often serving multiple sales channels, which have increased the complexity in the supply chain. To ensure demand is met and maintain availability, stock has to be managed as a single inventory with the opportunity to move product quickly from one channel to another. This in turn requires visibility of stock across all channels. This has led to smaller, more frequent orders having huge impact on the requirements of warehousing and off-site storage solutions. A shift from case picking to item picking is not only more labour intensive but also requires more packaging material, and as a consequence, more kilometres are driven to deliver the same quantities to shops. This is only made worse with click and collect, where orders may need to be despatched to stores on days when deliveries are not scheduled. Achieving a good balance between space and availability has become an increasing challenge for retailers.

Supply chains need to be very responsive and agile to keep up with market requirements. A good information interface with the retailer’s point of sale system on the shop floor is one of the keys to success. Improving chain visibility supported by an agile and a responsive supply chain enables retailer to meet with customer demand allows seasonal profitability.

Contact us now to discuss your needs.

Phone: +64 9 255 2560 I Mobile: 021 769 560 Email: john@dsl.co.nz I www.dsl.co.nz

20 I March 2017

BE SEEN.

Email your lookbook to caitlan@reviewmags.com to be featured online! apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 21

Zoe and Zach Claman DeMelo ZCD MONTR´EAL

ZCD Montréal was born from a world of car racing and fashion. Siblings Zoe and Zach Claman DeMelo started designing and brainstorming the brand in 2013.

They worked closely with factories in Europe until the collection launched in-stores in March 2016. Zach is a race car driver in the Indycar program. Zoe said whenever her family would go to the race track for events such as Formula 1 Grand Prix, there were lots of well-dressed celebs such as Gigi and Bella Hadid, Kendall and Kylie Jenner, Serena Williams, and Hailey Baldwin, all of whom had a great pair of sneakers on.

“We wanted to take this designer look and transform it into our lifestyle. Day to night, racetrack to runway.

The racing world has become very relevant today as Lewis Hamilton really bridged the gap from fashion to racing by gracing the cover of Vogue and working with L’Oreal,” Zoe explained.

ZCD Montréal has been spotted on some of the most popular influencers in the industry including; Gigi Hadid, Margot Robbie, Bella Thorne, Coco Rocha, Devon Windsor, Elsa Hosk, Sistine Stallone, and more. ZCD Montréal is under the umbrella of a company called SeCe Distribution which owned by their mother and made its debut into the wholesale business over 15 years ago.

Today ZCD Montréal has a team of ten and are the exclusive Canadian distributor of high-end fashion brands for men, women and children. This includes; 7 For All Mankind, IRO, Koral, Zoe Karssen, Splendid, Rebecca Taylor, Vilebrequin, Vince, and UGG. “As a child I would spend most of my

22 I March 2017

time in the offices of SeCe always asking to help and always ready to learn.

It was very natural and easy transition for me to come straight to work and start a business of our own [ZCD Montréal],” Zoe added.

After testing the local markets in Canada, the duo branched out into the USA and Europe. Zoe believes that Montreal is very European in feeling and this is what enabled her to naturally transition to spend her time in Europe and the UK brainstorming streetwear and other trends.

The first design they made was the classic skate sneaker, because sneakers took the fashion world by storm. “We wanted to start our collection off with a basic skate sneaker. From there we elaborated by creating different styles that pushed the boundaries in the sneaker world,” Zoe explained.

ZCD Montréal have launched a mission of remaining exclusive and hard to find. However, the world is a big place and there are many stores for ZCD Montréal to grow in while maintaining the exclusivity similar to a brand like Vetements. Zoe said there is always room for growth with their stockists.

They are currently working on a men’s collection for Spring/Summer 2018. “Men’s has been a huge demand so after carefully planning, we will be launching it for Spring/Summer 2018. Men’s is such a natural transition for us as we know many key influencers in that market. Within the next few years, we will be developing and growing different commodities and moving with the trend,” they said. Children’s footwear will hopefully follow suit in a few more seasons.

Keen to grow slowly, the sibling duo never want to compromise their quality which is 100 percent made in Italy. Zach and Zoe chose Italy for ZCD Montréal’s manufacturing because of its strong reputation in luxurious footwear. The ZCD Montréal customer goes anywhere from a mother to her daughter.

Someone who is on trend and understands that luxury designer lifestyle. Zoe said it is important to state what makes them different, that they are a full sneaker-only brand. “Unlike other brands, we don’t dabble in boots, sandals and so on. We are strictly sneakers,” she added.

The design process starts with Zoe

and her mother Catherine researching the fashion world and what is relevant at the moment. Part of maintaining their ZCD DNA is to be at the forefront of fashion. “We then try and tie it into the world of racing. After that we go to Italy and London and other parts of Europe for different parts of inspiration. We then chose our fabrics for each shoe and style and go forward with producing the sample line,” Zoe said.

The best way to communicate with their customers is through social media channels such as Instagram, Facebook and bloggers. They have been receiving a lot of hype from a number of celebrities wearing ZCD Montréal which has drawn a huge following to the

brand. A key style in their collection is the Senna in White. “It is our claim to fame thanks to supermodel Gigi Hadid who was spotted in them multiple times,” Zoe said. The Senna style was launched on day one and is loved for its simplicity as a clean every day shoe. It is one of three permanent styles that ZCD Montréal have had since day one.

The other two being Nico in python and Nico in gold. ZCD Montréal produce two collections a year for Spring and Fall, but sometimes they throw in a special capsule collection of what’s trending. A standard collection has 15 SKUs; five styles and three SKUs per style. The Fall 2017 collection features minks, snakes, suedes, and other new styles.

Partnering with the right stockists is very important to them as it is a key way to showcase their brand.

Their US exclusive department store Barneys New York showcased ZCD Montréal in a feature on The Window promoting the brand. They believe it’s important to have both a physical store and online. “Customers appreciate walking into a store. They like to feel the product and try it on, especially in the footwear commodity. Once you gain that loyal following, e-commerce is just a natural transition as it has taken the world by storm.”

Both Zach and Zoe advise young designers to stay true to who you are and that it is crucial to be different in today’s market. “E-commerce has made businesses very transparent and consumers are very educated and can find anything anywhere.

I think it’s important to tap into a market that has a gap and fill that gap,” said Zoe. Their biggest challenge so far is to continue to remain different and unique.

Moving forward, Asia is ZCD’s next big target.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 23

BLINK BOYS MODEL MELTDOWN CLUB

Co-founders Danika Rooney and Holly Emery both started in the fashion industry through modelling. The two thoroughly enjoyed the world of fashion and how it allowed them to explore their creativity. Rooney grew up in a small town called Opotiki and attended St Joseph Primary School before moving to Whakatane High School. Rooney then moved again to Auckland, where she went to Mt Albert Grammar School. Emery, however, was born and raised in Auckland and went to Kohia Terrace Primary School and then continued high school at Diocesan.

The duo has always been creative whether it’s been in or out of school and both have had an interest in photography from an early age.

“It was probably when we began modelling and got to see and be amongst the creative individuals in the fashion industry that we began to appreciate and want to show our view of fashion and photography,” explained Rooney. The first designs were inspired by their modelling careers, ideas about modelling in general and the social media world. “‘Support Your Local Models Meltdown’ and ‘Models Are So Last Season’ were the first tees, and to us, they were to be taken as a joke,” said Emery. “They were an experiment just to test the waters on what other people thought,” added Rooney. Together they spend a lot of time bantering about possible designs. Emery works on the mock-ups for all of their designs to see how they would look. Both have no official training even though they were both gifted with sewing machines when they were younger. “If we were able, we would for sure be designing and hand-making the tees ourselves, but for now we source all of our products in NZ,” Rooney said. They are looking into screen printing their garments themselves in the future.

Their favourite part is seeing the end product for the first time. “It’s always an amazing feeling seeing your vision come to life and we get so hyped seeing our customers in them,” said Emery. Currently, they are working on their new online store, expanding their range and looking for new retailers. Heavily influenced by the New Zealand fashion industry, their goal is to bring a sense of humour into their designs from an industry they both love and appreciate. “We want to create products that we both genuinely love and are proud of.”

24 I March 2017

During a tropical holiday in Malaysia, friends Andrew Slane, Asher Walker and Tim Slane had a few too many Malibu pineapples and decided to all leave their jobs and start a business together. “We all went to Dilworth School together and have been in each other’s pockets ever since,” Tim said.

Before Blink Boys, Andrew had worked at a print company; Asher was in advertising and Tim was in signage and print. Their new roles are blurred and frequently cross over into most areas of their business.

Blink Boys opened in January 2015 in a small corner office in Ponsonby, but soon after plucked up the courage to go bigger and moved into the “Blink Factory” which is tucked away on Exmouth Street in Auckland.

The space was formerly a dance studio; the boys felt they had lucked out with the polished wooden floors and high ceilings. Andrew put the name Blink out right at the beginning, and they all felt it was right. After a few clients and friends starting referring to them as the Blink Boys, they just went with it.

Their first big job was for Festival One, where they looked after all of their social media, signage and printing.

Asher grew up in West Auckland and studied Communications at AUT after living overseas. An avid collector of records, Asher also enjoys a good novel and spends most of his evenings finding new places to eat.

Brothers Andrew and Tim grew up in Greenlane, Tim is a passionate op-shopper and is always first in the office to find new music. Andrew studied Business at Auckland University and is spends his extra time in the ocean sailing or participating in other water activities.

The key skill required to work at Blink is flexibility.

Working on a broad range of projects no two days are the same. From brand architecture and strategy to signage design, print management and installation there is a lot of crossover of areas, and everyone is required to put in effort where needed. Blink Boys focus on creating value through a range of digital and physical solutions. They are fortunate to have a great set of clients and be able to work on some fun briefs.

From creative strategy, content creation and execution, photography, copywriting, through to graphic design, they do it all. On the physical side, they focus on signage, print and custom projects and events that involve parts of those industries.

The Blink Boys have invested in a laser cutter, so their future is very focused on that. The new equipment opens up a whole new range of projects that they can work on and also complements everything they already do. Next, they are looking to develop further into what they do, maintaining a small and dynamic team that work on transforming spaces from design to physical execution.

The trio is playing around with different merchandise

ideas and products that they can make within their studio. “We make them for our friends, but depending on how things go one day we’d potentially look at selling items,” Tim said.

Now with a team of five, the boys felt lucky to have an awesome team and a network of experts that they can call on for bigger projects. “The ability to produce high-quality work in all areas of our business while keeping the process refreshing and fun. There’s a sense of satisfaction in being able to complete briefs from start to finish - creative, design and physical execution.”

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 25

Lynne Heggie

HEGGIE AGENCIES

Agent and Range Builder (Developer ) for Cresta Holdings Pty Ltd

I am extremely fortunate to have the familial heritage I do, being fourth generation in the Fashion Footwear industry.

My father Ron Uglow trained as a pattern cutter and shoe designer starting in 1952 and my grandfather and great grandfather worked as ‘shoe makers’ in the making room, this was when both Australia and New Zealand had a thriving footwear industry. At the time, Australia had 400 shoe manufacturers, with 200 of them based in Melbourne. My father made his first trip to NZ to Christchurch in 1958 to look at a (leather) grading machine. The industry was flourishing.

Fast forward to 2017 and manufacturing is predominantly off-shore, however the factories I now deal with in Spain, Italy and Portugal are often also generational, and extremely proud of their product.

We also have a shared passion for footwear and the knowledge of creation, design, and production, using quality leathers and developing new and interesting heel and sole components.

Both within Australia and New Zealand, and across Europe we are facing the latest challenging period in design, manufacture and retail. Most pressing on the home front, we feel the pressure from expansion of international retailers, including takeovers from conglomerates and hedge fund managers whose reason d’être seems to be aggressively squeezing independents from the market place.

This, combined with the consumer’s insatiable hunger for instant fashion has saturated the mass market with goods that compromise on quality and originality.

I truly believe that innovative product is the light that leads us through this time. Working with, and visiting, artisan designer-makers in Italy, Spain and Portugal twice a year, I am inspired by their constant and evolving drive to present strong and innovative ranges, a point of difference, and of course quality.

My role is to not simply present these collections to the Australian and New Zealand market but to customize the product for everyone’s client base. My passion for design has been forged through a career as a graphic designer and artist that spans over 30 years.

As a range-builder, I use my understanding of colour

26 I March 2017

Japanese designer Yuko Imanishi (left) and Lynne Heggie (right) at Micam Milano

- its subtleties, nuances - and how this, along with the varying texture of leather in either patent, nubuck, suede or Napa, can entirely change the look of a shoe.

My mantra has always been simplicity is the essence of good design, but it is how this is defined by colour and texture that makes it great design. It is the ‘hand finishing’ on a pair of shoes, that can give depth and

My mantra has always been simplicity is the essence of good design, but it is how this is defined by colour and texture that makes it great design. tone to the leather, and this is often the defining factor appreciated by the discerning customer for the artisan shoe maker as opposed to the mass producer. Herein is the hook, the tactile experience of feeling the cut of the cloth, the smell of the leather, it is the retail experience.

My own experience in retail has been invaluable in my understanding of what clients need in a range.

From cutting my teeth assisting my father in wholesale

and retail, to working within various footwear sectors of the Myer department stores, to running Corporate Arts Business, as an artist and designer with my partner Mark Heggie, who is a silversmith and potter.

We identified a niche in the market working to commission in the corporate arena, our clients included the Australian State & Federal Governments, BHP, Caterpillar Australia through to World Rugby, many and varied both the briefs and commissions were. Each endeavour has necessitated lateral thinking, being able to visualize the client’s idea and work to their needs.

There’s the certain pleasure of a customer who has trusted you as the retailer, to move from their comfort zone to embrace a different look, which they will admit to you they never would have thought of wearing, but are absolutely inspired by. The quality of the fabric, the value in perhaps paying a little more, but the value of that cost amortized over the years that the product lasts due to that quality. These may be considered small differences but they are an integral component of the customer’s retail experience, and one that makes them a loyal return customer.

It is about the aspirational buy, the inspiration provided by the retailer. The business of fashion, art and design is all about the people who drive it. You don’t get that online per se, however this in part is where Instagram, influencers and bloggers are establishing a parallel niche.

For me it’s still about the retail experience, and I see that for many customers in New Zealand, it is too. The New Zealand market is unique, consistently taking up the most directional fashion being offered. A reasonably small market, the New Zealand customer looks for the newest, most directionally forward product being offered.

Where most Australian counterparts will look, admire but ultimately defer for the toned-down version of product, the New Zealand client will embrace and run with the look. This is true to clients throughout NZ, from Invercargill through to Auckland. I do hope that Australia will be so adoptive on a wider scale one day.

Roy Susskind & Associates Roy Susskind & Associates (RSA) is a family business that started in January 1980 and are agents and importers of ladies’ footwear.

Before RSA, Roy Susskind worked as a Merchandise Director for retailer Wittner Shoes for 17 years and before that he was a buyer for five years at Myer’s Ladies’ fashion footwear department.

He first joined Myer’s as a trainee cadet and was told by management he would be working in Ladies’ Shoes and loved it from day one. In 1979, Susskind decided to become self-employed as he had excellent contacts overseas to source products which were a tremendous help to get started.

With mainly three family members in RSA, Susskind said his son Michael has 31 years footwear experience in retailing, design, manufacturing and wholesale. Susskind stated that they are not looking to expand into men’s footwear as it is an

Emily Bezzant, Head Analyst at EDITED, bases the predictions from EDITED’s analysis of over 520 million global products online, and the insights it provides to companies including eBay, Ralph Lauren, ASOS and many other leading brands.

1. Retailers will embrace artificial intelligence for greater personalization The savviest retailers are taking advantage of advancements in machine learning, deep analytics and AI for a more targeted and personalized shopping experience. Customers now have longer digital footprints (shopping histories, social media profiles and interests) giving retailers easy access to offer a tailored selection of products. Brands such as The North Face and 1800-FLOWERS.COM are already using AI to provide personalized recommendations. On a product level, retailers are also offering monogrammed accessories or handbags to meet the consumer’s individual style preferences.

(Left to right) Michael Susskind and Roy Susskind

entirely different field. “We prefer to concentrate on constantly serving up to date ladies’ shoes,” he said.

A family business for over 30 years, RSA are agents and importers of ladies’ footwear. RSA’s speciality is sourcing exclusively European footwear from Italy, France, Spain, Portugal and so on.

“We can get the latest original fashion designs and materials at very competitive prices,” Susskind added. Their main suppliers all specialise in a particular type of footwear. For example, handwoven shoes, sandals, fashion heel shoes, moccasins,

2. Retailers will expand further into lifestyles The explosion of sub-categories such as “athleisure”, for example (predicted to reach $83 billion in global sales by 2020), highlights how retailers are evolving into lifestyle brands. Many brands have launched activewear/athleisure lines (including Kate Spade, Zara) or collaborated with celebrities (adidas/Kanye West, IVY PARK/Beyonce). In 2017, retailers will push further into niche and smaller markets to cater to consumers’ lifestyles. Retailers will also expand into premium services in brick and mortar stores - think sipping prosecco or going to a grooming bar - to keep consumers in store longer and offer greater differentiation.

3. Retailers will push further into sustainability The retail sector has long recognized the need to be more sustainable - whether it’s in product design, use, disposal or innovation. However, fast fashion and sustainability were previously viewed as being on opposite ends of the spectrum. With a growing consumer movement for more sustainably produced items, in 2017 retailers will look at how they can provide better quality products that last longer to align with consumer’s personal values. H&M and Zara have already started to make progress - EDITED’s data has found that the median price of their sustainable collections are $17.99 and $9.90 respectively.

4. Retailers will use the latest mobile innovations to capture consumer attention People are choosing their mobile devices over their desktops for all Internet-based activities - including shopping. As the smartphone becomes the dominant platform, retailers are relying on social media and the latest applications in virtual reality to promote their wares. Whether it’s delivering a 360-degree viewing

mature trendy comfort casuals, young dress casuals, and espadrilles.

They primarily supply independent retailers and some minor chains and offer either F.O.B or a service to smaller retailers as F.I.S. Susskind he values the fact that they can work with each customer individually and supply just what they want with the client’s knowledge that they will always stand behind whatever they provide them.

“Whichever way you buy we always stand 100 percent behind the product we sell.”

Some of their suppliers include; Pons Quintana, Hirica, Brenda Zaro, Clarus, Vitti Love, Azuree, Kanna, and La Linea. Susskind keeps in contact with his clients regularly by phone or email as well as store visits. Their client base is quite varied from retailers specialising in mature ladies’ comfort to those that want the latest younger fashion. He loves travelling overseas twice annually to work with factory designers on the present collection and exchange ideas about future designs and leather types.

A standout innovation Susskind has seen over the past 30 years is that European made footwear has become much more price competitive and less expensive as a percentage of wages. “The biggest change is that retailers in the past used to be ‘brand’ oriented and buy a good representation of the brand they carry whereas now the majority retails are ‘item’ buyers with little brand recognition,” he explained.

When asked if there was a secret to success, Susskind said “The secret is no secret! We have to always keep right up to date with fashion trends showing around the world and source the product the retailer wants.”

experience so that a person feels like they are live at Fashion Week or using virtual reality to see how a product fits on a person’s body, mobile innovations will provide a unique immersion experience to the consumer.

FASHION TRENDS 2017

According to Emily Bezzant, one of the biggest trends for Spring 2017 is the 1980’s. Already making waves towards the end of 2016, the second series of Stranger Things slated to be released mid-2017 will also help to keep the decade alive. From power suits and slouchy tailored trousers for office wear, through to off-the-shoulder looks, activewear and OTT ruffles - the 1980’s is a decade that will infiltrate all areas of consumers’ wardrobes. Micro trends are set to be huge looks on their own. Embroidered and appliquéd denim that looks almost customized, band tees, ruffles, feature sleeves and stirrup trousers have also already been adopted by the fashion pack.

WOMEN’S TRENDS:

• Deconstructed, slit and poppered trousers • Streetwear - especially overhead branded and slogan hoodies • Corsets for layering • Kick-flares • Revealed shoulders

MEN’S TRENDS:

• Streetwear • Embroidery & badges • Distressing & rips on jersey tops • Athleisure • 90’s nostalgia

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 27

Luke Stockman CLYNE

Born and raised in Auckland, Luke Stockman lived in East Auckland for most of his life until he turned nineteen and left for overseas work. He grew up in a large family with five siblings and said things get a little crazy at times, especially when they were younger.

Stockman said his family has a range of blended interests, and even now their unique passions have continued into their careers. “Some of those included owning and operating a hair salon, a manufacturing and designing jewellery company, photography and fashion, painting and a top Auckland rated mechanic work shop.”

Stockman left university after studying one year of a Fine Arts Degree and said it, unfortunately, wasn’t for him. Walking away with a diploma, he said he has been thinking about going back to university to study something in the field of psychology or human behaviour.

Growing up, Stockman looked up to comedians such as Jim Carrey and Eddie Murphy as he had always been one for a good laugh. Now he looks up to individuals who have come out of stages of life where they weren’t happy.

People like comedian Ricky Gervais, model David Gandy and Stockman’s friend and opportunity maker Andy Stienhauser.

Scouted at 16-years-old, Stockman didn’t sign to any agency until he was 24. “I decided to join the industry later as I had other things I wanted to accomplish and do before I started in the fashion world,” Stockman explained. He has been modelling full-time for the past three years and said no particular job has been his biggest achievement but said that his proudest achievement is to continue to be able to work and travel for the last nine years. “That was not easy to do, and there’s been a lot of ups and downs, but it’s something I always set out to do, finding ways to get around the world while not only enjoying myself but also paying the bills along the way,” he added.

Stockman is with nine agencies around the globe; Clyne Model Management in Auckland, Louisa Models in Germany, D Management in Italy, D1 Models in London, LA Models in Los Angeles, Avenue Management in Singapore, Model Management in Denmark, Model Link in Switzerland and his mother agent is DCMM. He said he was lucky that modelling had taken him to so many parts of the world so far. Highlights include; New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Toronto, Vancouver, London, Prague, Paris, Milan, Singapore,

28 I March 2017

China and Australia. “It’s been amazing, and I’m very lucky to have had that opportunity to not only sign with these agencies but also go there and experience the countries,” he said.

At the beginning of Stockman’s modelling career, he was featured in a lot of magazines to get his portfolio together, but he decided after a few years to slow down and focus more on commercial jobs. Stockman said a key difference in the modelling international and local fashion industries is the social media aspect. “Overseas it plays a huge roll on models getting noticed and booked for jobs. It started to take off just as I was entering the business and now personally I think it has gone a little too far. People are now more focused on your Instagram page and your selfie pictures from your iPhone rather than your work portfolio that was gathered from shooting around the world,” he said.

Anyone who has worked in the fashion industry knows that there are very big ups and downs over the years. “Like any other career in the world, but my biggest challenge so far was learning how to dig myself out of those down moments as when the down moments hit, they hit hard and all at once.”

Travelling and working in other industries for five years before modelling, Stockman made a lot of connections and great friends around the world.

“Fashion has enabled me to continue to travel and not only meet new people but get to see my friends from the past more frequently than I would be able. We have been able to share large life moments together like weddings, the birth of children and success stories in their chosen fields of work. The friends and connections are for sure the best part about this industry.”

Next Stockman is off to Sydney and then back to London and Germany for his main market in Europe.

He would love to work with Hugo Boss.

His future plans are to get more involved in work behind the camera. “I have developed a passion over the last few years for more of the creative aspect of the industry and leaning away from being in front of the camera,” he explained. In particular, Stockman would like to be involved in the development and execution of video and photo shoots.

Very lucky to have several different careers in his 27-years, he made sure before he decided to commit full-time to modelling that he had experiences in other walks of life.

Before modelling, Stockman was a live entertainment host for comedy shows for three years on cruise lines around the world. He also worked as an athletics director for Massachusetts summer camps for three summers, and one on one with child social engagement and development in Spain. Currently, Stockham is looking for his next dream job.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 29

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