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MARCH 2020 I VOL 53 I NO 3
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editor ' s note
fashionable reads
Valentino: Themes and Variations By Pamela Golbin
A REALITY BITE In these quickly changing times, finding ways to engage with your customers is a top priority. Reassuring customers of the steps you have taken to protect their health and wellbeing while in your store should be the first step. Many retailers have been emailing their client databases to outline the steps that they have taken, from hand sanitiser at the door and at checkout, improved cleaning and sanitation of the store itself, filter cleaning and/or replacement of air filters on air conditioners and heat pumps. Spreading out stock so that customers can browse while maintaining social distancing, or even restricting entry and allowing only a few customers in at any one time, or providing time slots in the weekends or evenings when customers and their friends could have a private styling session. Obviously contactless payments, providing free courier exchange slips and reinforcing that we are all in this together is a baseline. Staff working from home? It is important to re-evaluate the security of your office, cyber security and stores.
Some ideas for a poster on the door:
a. We are doubling down on our cleaning, using stronger cleaning agents. b. Supplying hand sanitiser at checkout. c. Moving racks further apart. d. Strong staff policies regarding staying home when feeling unwell. e. Adhering to Ministry of Health guidelines. Coronavirus is shaking up business and consumer behaviour on a massive scale. Both the public and private sectors are scrambling to slow the spread of the illness and contain COVID-19 infections. While the full economic consequences of this event are still unclear, we know that the effects that the virus — and the drastic measures being taken to contain it — are already precipitating change across many industries. The realisation that COVID-19 may well bankrupt more people than it kills is a reality bite. The most immediate business impact of the coronavirus pandemic has been a major disruption to supply chains. While companies often have contingency plans, which revolve around ramping up production in a region that isn’t impacted, the rapid spread of the coronavirus across the globe makes it very difficult to pinpoint which regions would be least affected. Even then, the momentum and resources of each economy
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will not be easily replicated. The spread of the coronavirus has caused nearly all of the fashion weeks and trade expos across the world cancelled or reduced in numbers resulting in missed sales, partnerships, and networking opportunities. Close to our hearts is the Vancouver Fashion Week, where we are involved in taking three emerging New Zealand designers to showcase their ranges. Unfortunately, VFW March 2020 has been postponed and the show will now be merged with October’s Vancouver Fashion Week for Spring/ Summer. Online alternatives have helped limit the fallout from cancelled conferences and workshops, the fashion industry will likely still suffer a period of lost business opportunities. Conference attendees do not have the same opportunities to network via live streaming as they do attending in-person events. It is harder for marketers to casually share best practices over the live-streamed webinar, for instance, than it would be if the event actually took place. Though it is difficult to quantify the value of these chance encounters or informal network sessions, the effects will undoubtedly be felt throughout the impacted industries. The growing need for remote interactions amid the coronavirus pandemic has highlighted a need for the use of business media, social, direct mail and digital platforms. Print is also seeing a resurgence in popularity. Your smart phone’s inbox is a cluttered environment from which to carve out an impression and engagement to an unsolicited unsubscribed message.
Peter Mitchell Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Janet Guan - janet@reviewmags.com Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento Debby Wei
2 I March 2020
ISSN 1171-2287
Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand +64 9 304 0142 Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2020 NZ Apparel Magazine.
Valentino has been in the high fashion game for almost fifty years. Worn by young Hollywood and high-profile celebrities all over the world. This book celebrates Valentino’s remarkable career focusing on Valentino’s haute couture creations, looking at re-occurring themes and motifs used throughout the years. Through new photography, images, sketches and commentary by Valentino himself, helps us explore this fashion powerhouse. Valentino’s private fittings and backstage work is presented to the reader in this book. A true first insight into Valentino’s life.
Out of the Box: The Rise of Sneaker Culture By Elizabeth Semmelhack
From mid-nineteenth century trends to sports performance creations and streetwear staples. This book draws on the collection of the Bata Shoe Museum, private collectors and archives. With insight through interviews and essays by design specialists, collectors and historians, we hear the story of technical innovation, fashion trends and the development of marketing campaigns throughout the years. This book highlights prototype drawings and designs by Nike sneaker designer Tim Hatfield. Filled with illustrations and in-depth breakdowns, this is the source of knowledge for sneakerheads alike.
About Time: Fashion and Duration By Andrew Bolton and Michael Cunningham
You can learn the timeline of fashion history through this book, but bear in mind, this timeline presentation is unconventional and non-traditional. Fashion trends are seen in period dramas to transform the audience back into a different time. Thus, fashion trends work to represent a time, but it also develops with time. About Time starts in the 1870s, where the standard time shifted from local to global, and continues to examine fashion trends and fashion events over the years. The essence of time is incredibly strong in this book, with commissioned photography used to explore the shared experience of “objective time” that is measured by traditional methods of a clock or a calendar, to “subjective time” that is expressed through the clothes an individual wears throughout their lifetime. The concept of time and its relation to fashion is used literally and metaphorically throughout this book, making it an incredibly thoughtprovoking read.
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THIS INFAMOUS UNDERWEAR BRAND GOTS YOU The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a processing standard for organic fibres that include ecological and social criteria for businesses to follow. The standard covers that the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, trading and distribution of all textiles made from at least 70 percent certified organic natural fibres. Bonds launches its first Organics underwear range that merges comfort, style and sustainability together. This range is ingrained with full traceability of material origin and manufacturing transparency. Australian musician, Cody Simpson and fashion muse Paloma Elsesser are the faces of the new "We Gots You" campaign. They represent the new generation of ecoconscious millennials and are perfect for this new campaign. Bonds Organics are made using GOTS certified organic cotton which ranges from timeless silhouettes, trunks and briefs, to comfy bralettes and crops, there's something for everyone.
"Prioritising sustainability, Bonds Organics is our newest range of iconic basics. It's Bonds' first GOTS certified organic cotton range, making our product kinder to the planet, our people and the wearer," said Kelly McBride, Head of Marketing.
Bonds' environmental goals for 2020 see less water and energy consumption, an increase in the use of sustainable raw materials and the continued support for Aussie farmers. The Bonds Organics range is now available in Farmers and online.
FIRST BEAUTY BRAND AND REDDIT PARTNERSHIP Popular nail polish brand, Essie, has taken a giant leap into partnering with Reddit. RedditGifts is an online gift exchange program that was brought about in 2009. With Reddit's readership including high levels of 'beauty-obsessed' users, Essie hopes to reach a wider audience and consumer group through this partnership. They will gift 200 participants a sample of their new Expressie polish. Reddit has more than 430 million monthly active users and Roxy Young, vice president of marketing at Reddit, says that she has seen tremendous growth with its beauty communities. Essie is the first beauty brand to ever sponsor RedditGifts.
NEW SANITISING TECHNOLOGY Innovative technology meets contemporary design in this new way to sanitise and refresh your clothes in your wardrobe. The new Samsung AirDresser removes odours and wrinkles as well as dust and germs. It is made to provide an alternative way to take care of your treasured garments. With the rising need to live a sustainable life, taking good care of your garments, so the wear and tear life cycle lasts longer, is a perfect step to be taking. Samsung's latest home innovations use a powerful air and steam system to freshen up your garments. Simply place your garment inside the unit, and wait for it to runs its course. The Jet Air and Air Hangers
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loosen and remove engrained dust. The JetSteam sanitises garments, but you can also place soft toys and linens into the unit for the same result. With the Deodorising Filter function, the AirDresser works to remove odour-causing particles whilst the Self-Clean technology dehumidifies, sanitises and deodorises the interior of the unit itself. Often, garments are thrown into the washing machine every two days, depending on how much you wear each garment. This causes the life span of garments to decrease drastically with every wash. The AirDresser is something you can use between washes to lengthen lifespan and condition of your garments. This innovative technology allows you to save time and money in the long run and should become a staple in every household.
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COS OPENS IN NEW ZEALAND
a custom-made spiral staircase connecting the two. Not only is it functional, but it is also a gorgeous centre-piece for the entire store experience. The store design reflects the iconic COS minimalistic aesthetic Finally touching base in New Zealand, COS is opening their first with the use of a neutral colour palette of whites and greys. The floor store in Westfield Newmarket in to ceiling windows allows gorgeous Auckland. COS is well known for its timeless natural light into the store, making it and classic pieces that are continually an inviting space to shop at. "This is an exciting moment for being reinvented season after season. The pieces you pick up us, opening our first store in New Zealand. Auckland is such a vibrant from COS will take and cultural city and we feel it is the you through various events, places and times. perfect location for our first store in the market," said Christoffer Selling, This new retail Managing Director for COS APAC. store in Newmarket Open today, check out the new COS will stretch between store now. two levels with
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Maxima and MECCA Cosmetica stores together. This will be a sight to see, as they bring two large ideas into one for the enjoyment of both staff and their customers. "Auckland is growing and so The Auckland beauty-scape has been reimagined when Australian beauty are we. MECCA is thrilled to be opening in the CBD's latest retail powerhouse, MECCA, entered the development with an incredible scene. new store...it will be a unique It continues to change the game retail environment tailored to how by bringing a convenient stop at our New Zealand customers shop Commercial Bay this month. beauty," said MECCA's country The highly anticipated shopping precinct has been slowly announcing manager, Carly Emery. MECCA Commercial Bay will the brands that will be presented this be the 14th MECCA store in New month. The MECCA Commerical Zealand and will be open on the Bay store will bring the retail 28th of March 2020. concepts of both the MECCA
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6 I March 2020
trade talks
PROTECTING YOUR DESIGNS USING COPYRIGHT LAW JUST GOT EASIER By Jenni Rutter, Partner and Nadia Ormiston, Associate at Dentons Kensington Swan.
Is anything in fashion truly new? The industry is known for being fast-paced and built on copying or at least ‘inspiration’ from others. With designers challenged more than ever to keep ahead of trends and to stay relevant, the risk of designs being replicated by copycats remains a real problem for Kiwi designers. The New Zealand fashion industry isn’t immune to the pressures faced by international designers. We clearly compete on a world stage - the March 2020 Times Magazine cover of Jacinda Ardern in an Ingrid Starnes blouse is a fabulous example. Last year we saw allegations of copying by Adrienne Winkelmann, and others have been left red-faced in the past from similar accusations. As a designer, it’s often possible to take a stand if your original design is copied. A basic understanding of the intellectual property in your designs will help you do this. Even better, a recent Court decision in the UK involving a jacquard fabric design has made it easier than before to prevent copying of designs that don’t easily fit into the ‘artistic works’ category of copyright. The UK Court even relied on an old New Zealand case involving a Bonz® hand knitted jumper. Intrigued? Read on.
WHAT IP RIGHTS DO I HAVE IN MY DESIGNS?
Brands are extremely valuable assets, but when it comes to clothing and apparel designs, your main IP asset is copyright. Copyright is a freebie – it exists as soon as you create a design that is original (i.e. not copied from elsewhere). Unlike other IP rights, you don’t need to register copyright and in New Zealand there is in fact no registration system, unlike the USA and China. Thanks to international copyright laws, your New Zealand copyright is also recognised in numerous countries around the world – again at no charge to you. Copyright can exist in several works underlying a garment or accessory, e.g. a drawing, the first pattern produced, the sample garment, original textiles or fabric designs. Copyright generally doesn’t extend to the final garment itself because it doesn’t fit into one of the protected categories. Copyright in a clothing design generally lasts for 16 years from the date when 50 garments are made for sale. When has copyright in your design been infringed? When someone has actually copied (i.e. didn’t come up with the same design independently) and the copy is objectively similar to your design. The more original a design is, the easier it is to prove it was copied. Infringement is a question of quality, not quantity. If the most original element of your design is an intricate right sleeve and that is copied, that could be enough to infringe copyright in your entire design.
HOW CLOSE IS CLOSE ENOUGH?
This is the million dollar question in any copyright dispute. There is no rule that changing five elements or a certain percent of a work is okay, this is a myth. If someone copies a painting, it’s usually easy to prove copyright infringement because most paintings
have a high level of originality. But if someone copies a standard jacket design, proving infringement will be harder because the level of originality will be low, and all the common or functional design features will need to be discounted when assessing how close the copycat garment is.
A NEW DEVELOPMENT IN COPYRIGHT LAW MAY IMPROVE PROTECTION FOR NZ DESIGNERS
A recent decision from the UK Intellectual Property Enterprise Court involving a high street top made from a jacquard fabric has made it possible for some clothing designs to fall into a fairly rare category of copyright works known as works of ‘artistic craftsmanship’.
This category applies to works for which there are no drawings or protoypes, for example, woven, knitted garments or fabrics. It was previously thought that only handmade articles produced in small numbers would qualify, but this new decision suggests clothing and fabric designs can be protected even if they are created using a machine and even if multiple copies are made and sold. This decision changes our thinking on the scope of ‘artistic craftsmanship’ and suggests that it could be used by fashion designers to help prevent copying of their clothing designs. An added bonus for our fashion industry is that the UK Court relied on a New Zealand decision from 1994 involving Bonz® knitted jumpers featuring skiing kiwis and the like. The Bonz decision looked at whether handknitted jumpers could be seen as works of ‘artistic craftsmanship’. There were no underlying design drawings, so Bonz would have struggled to
prevent its iconic jumpers being copied if they weren’t considered works of artistic craftsmanship. While handknitting a jumper could easily be viewed as ‘craftsmanship’, the Court was unsure whether the jumpers were ‘artistic’ or not. The question of what artistic means will probably continue to give judges a headache for some time to come and this is where expert evidence from the industry will be helpful. The fact that machine-created fabrics and other items can qualify for copyright protection as works of artistic craftsmanship is good news for New Zealand designers. This new interpretation of the category seems to line up with modern commercial reality, where machines and computers are frequently employed in the design phase. This is particularly true in the textile manufacturing industry. Let’s hope our own Courts now take a leaf out of the UK’s book. This decision should also be positive for our textile designers, particularly those creating unique Māori and Pacific designs that incorporate woven elements, where sketches aren’t necessarily made beforehand. This new approach to works of artistic craftsmanship may help close a gap in this area and give designers more protection against copying. An added benefit is that copyright in works of artistic craftsmanship lasts for 25 years instead of 16.
HOW CAN I PROTECT MY COPYRIGHT?
• Keep records of your designs throughout the design phase. • Add the copyright symbol ©, your name and the date to all your original works. This helps prove ownership if you have a dispute. • If you have someone else making designs for you or with you, make sure that ownership of copyright is dealt with in a written agreement. If you think someone has copied your designs and you’re concerned, call a lawyer who specialises in IP.
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THE ART OF VISUAL MERCHANDISING Visual merchandising can be a tough skill to master, and every store is different. Staying true to the designer or brand’s core values and aesthetics has proven to be of top priority rather than getting as much stock on display as possible. We spoke to visual merchandisers and designers from around the country to see what works best for them, and what not to do when merchandising.
KAREN WALKER Kiwi designer Karen Walker said fearlessness is key for having an impactful store. “Not being afraid to go big, go hard and go in and out fast,” quipped Walker. She added that it was very important to work on the brand aesthetic in-store. “We aim to have our brand be recognisable without seeing the logo at every touchpoint of our story – product, imagery, interior, wording, or visual merchandising. Therefore, one of our tests for whether our VM is doing its job or not is whether it tells you what store you’re in without seeing the logo on the glass.” Walker explained that being agile, and having the ability to change quickly is most effective.
NOT FOR YOU For their bricks and mortar store, Wellington-based menswear label Not For You made all of their own fixtures and clothing racks. “I had a clear vision in my head and I wanted to bring it to life,” explained designer Jerome Taylor. “The day we opened the doors was a big highlight as we have had nothing but positive feedback.” Despite this, Taylor added that they are always looking to improve and enhance their store. Creating and building a brand aesthetic outside of their apparel offering is extremely important to the team. “We believe that it is part of the overall experience and we try to encapsulate who we are not only through our garments but through the store itself.” As an ever-evolving brand, Taylor explained that they like to work on new store concepts, changing up
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fixtures at different levels, and ways they can achieve a range of height levels to create an interesting feel in store. “I love to explore new ideas and implement them as frequently as I can.” Taylor said the biggest mistake a store can make is not changing things up. “I feel like I go into most stores and they are always the same and there is nothing new or exciting. I love to go into a store and not only love the garments but I also want to have a memorable experience but I feel especially in New Zealand we are so focused on staying within the dotted line that a lot of the experiences are the same.” Teaming up with another designer was extremely beneficial to the store. The guest designer featured in the store was also creative and had an eye for things Taylor didn’t. “We found strengths in one another when it came to the aesthetic in the store. I feel like every designer has something special on offer, it’s just a matter of finding that perfect balance.”
MEADOWLARK Meadowlark said it was extremely important to work on an instore aesthetic for their Auckland showroom. As a design brand first and foremost, visual merchandising is really important to them. “Our showroom is the physical manifestation of our website and brand overall. Our intention is for all customers to have an immersive experience in the showroom while enjoying great customer service.”
MOOCHI Moochi’s 13 stores are their strongest representation of the moochi brand to which every detail of each store is carefully considered. From fitting rooms to the foliage on display, their stores are designed to epitomise the moochi brand and offer a recognisable sensory experience to their customer no matter which moochi they step into. “Exploring fresh and exciting ways to showcase our incredible product is what helps us to maintain
HARTLEYS We spoke to Sandi Vincent, coowner, managing director and head buyer at Hartleys, about their visual merchandising direction. Vincent is very hands on and can often be found merchandising stores with her team of 150 across 26 stores. Vincent told Apparel Magazine that the biggest mistake retailers make is not merchandising in brands. For Hartleys, they always merchandise in brands. “Brands like Loobies Story invest a huge amount of time, money and resources building a collection that is cohesive and easy to merchandise instore,” she said. “With Loobies Story in particular, they do such a good job of this that I
our position as New Zealand’s leading fashion brand.” The team at moochi value their customers feedback too and are always keeping them top of mind when designing new palettes or instore experiences. The team at moochi added that the biggest mistake is over complicating a theme or aesthetic. “At moochi, we like to deliver a clear concept so that every aspect of our shopping experience tells a story, from the racks and displays in store to the imagery shown online.”
can also re-merchandise throughout the season to give a completely different look very easily.” She continued to add that buying across a collection works for them, so when they support a brand, they showcase it how the designers intended. “We don’t merchandise by colour. People can’t find anything, can’t create an outfit, and it doesn’t sell the brand. We follow the direction of the designer so that our customers can too.” Vincent said if the brand has done it right, which is then followed through instore – then it’s easy to sell. “Out of any label I buy, Loobies Story would be the easiest to merchandise, and I know they work hard to create their collections to ensure this. It’s not accidental.”
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TRISH PENG Helping brides find their dream dress, Trish Peng said creating a feminine, elegant aesthetic instore is extremely important. With their flagship store now open in Ponsonby, Auckland, mannequins are always great but for Peng it’s all about the lighting. “Lighting is crucial for bridal. We have two gorgeous champagne chandeliers from Murano Plus.” For Peng, over cluttered windows or even window decals that aren’t professionally stuck on are the biggest mistake a visual merchandiser can make. Peng works with other well-known brands to get people through the door. They also steer clear of holidays and other occasions as they maintain a classic aesthetic for weddings all year round.
STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB Marc Moore of Stolen Girlfriends Club explained that Visual Merchandising is an area they are always wanting to work on and improve. Being a small team, the visual merchandising of their Newmarket store in Auckland is led by their store manager. Moore added that this is an important part of retail and requires energy and focus to give it the attention it deserves. Their head office creates artwork for the windows and posters, as well as helping with ideas around collection launches, holidays and other occasions. Moore continued to say it is crucial to retain their brand aesthetic with anything they do instore. “From imagery, through to the way the product is displayed, through to the types of events we run instore,” he said. “As our brand is heavily inspired by music there’s always a rock and roll feel to what we do. Jewellery displayed
on records, imagery having a rebellious and gritty feel, music that has presence.” The brand loves to host events instore for each new collection to celebrate the new work and ensuring all of the new imagery is up instore to support. These events allow the team to connect directly with their customer, and help pull them away from shopping online. “I think a big mistake that all of us can make is overthinking things, less is more with Visual Merchandising. Making sure the brand is always well-presented and the product is the hero.” Moore told Apparel Magazine that the brand does collaborate with a few people to attract a new energy to the store which they have found effective. From working with caterers on bespoke food for each event, through to musicians that perform instore, through to alcohol partners that craft bespoke cocktails instore, to baristas on coffee.
TAYLOR Over at Taylor Boutique, they also believe it is of top priority to have your brand aesthetic carried through every touch point a client has with your brand. “Your store and its ambience will all strengthen the aesthetic of your brand,” explained Vicki Taylor. A VM highlight for Taylor was the Hospital beds for A F Vandervorst and their collaboration with Grant and Rachel from Black Magazine with a Margiela launch window. “They were a lot of work to put together, but it was very creatively satisfying,” she added. “A strong window statement is a talking point. Use this to help tell your story and inspire a conversation.” Vicki Taylor continued to say it shouldn’t stop at windows and racks. “Continue it through to your music, counter, presentation, the smell, the greeting your staff use – every touch point the client will see and experience.” When it comes to partnering up with other brands, it all depends on how strong their following is, and how successfully it is executed. Pairing up can be beneficial, but should only be done if it fits with your brand’s persona. Does this collaboration inspire your customers?
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RUBY What works best for us here at RUBY is remerchandising all stores each week with new rack and accessory placement. Since we launch new collections every 2 months with weekly new arrivals, it is important to us that we keep our stores fresh to give our customers a new experience, as well making sure our new pieces are best displayed. We merchandise the racks with new arrivals, bestsellers, outfitting and colour palettes in mind – ensuring this is easiest for our Rubettes to shop but also that it is flowing aesthetically in store.
FARMERS “People are visual beings so any aesthetic in bricksand-mortar should ideally be compelling, inviting and engaging,” explained Bianca Craig, national visual merchandising manager at Farmers. Farmers making the change to align its visual merchandising standards on a customer centric experience has been the biggest highlight for Craig. “Moving away from stores being laid out with a focus on staff navigation really highlights the aspirational outfitting, curated merchandising and contemporary merchandising standards in Farmers stores.” The change was made three years ago and has since had a significant impact
SERVICE DENIM Keeping things simple, Service Denim’s décor is quiet so they can project what the brands are saying through the clothing. There is a complementary relationship between the labels Neuw Denim, Rolla’s Jeans, and Abrand Jeans. Each has its own story to tell. “It is important to stay true to what each brand has to say, and Service Denim is a space where each brand’s aesthetic is integrated into the area’s layout.” Currently in their Ponsonby store is Rolla’s collaboration with Sofia Richie where the front of the store is dedicated to the items she is endorsing. There are lots of soft pinks and fresh flowers, along with visuals of her in the clothing. “It really brings the people in and gives life to the brand and the clothing.” Visual merchandising is key to maintaining a store’s foot traffic and sales. The way Service Denim approach it is by incorporating empathy to the layout. “It is taking into consideration the desire of the customer and the clothing's purpose. Clothes shopping is a very intimate and tactile ritual. We are naturally drawn to something that is visually pleasing, and the display
on the perception of their store environments. Craig added that the biggest mistake visual merchandisers make is not understanding how their customers want to shop. Farmers has found partnering up with other brands has offered a true department store experience through housing both vendor and house brands. This also increased foot traffic and sales, therefore giving their customers a more compelling shopping experience. Working around a marketing calendar for annual events, Craig said this can change depending on the priorities of the business or relevance to the customer. “Generally speaking, having local and regional events is a key opportunity for any retailer to leverage.”
needs to accomplish that. I focus on a few concepts when it comes to achieving this: colours, textiles and themes. Clothes all have a function to them, and they can be arranged together to communicate a mood or idea to an individual. It is anticipating what the customers are seeking, what they are buying it for, and being able to suggest other items that can fit the tone too.” The team at Service Denim agreed that not maintaining the aesthetics of the shop space is the biggest mistake retailers make. The mess from general handling instore or haphazardly folded clothes is unappealing as well. It is so important to keep the area and the clothing tidy. That shows respect and value towards being in the store and for the product. A tidy and fresh store with a solid aesthetic is so pleasing to experience. While the team currently focuses on the arrangement of clothing, sometimes occasions such as Valentine’s Day rolls around and they might colour coordinate parts of the store to reflect the theme. “Success in sales with these types of events, in my opinion, really comes down to what it is you are selling and the experience the customer has when they go into the store.”
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essential stock
MADE BY PEN
Linea Tabletop Organiser Made by Pen is an exciting Australian-based design studio that creates original, architecturally inspired-products through a unique collaborative process. Linea by Jim Hannon-Tan for Made by Pen, is a multi-purpose tabletop organiser inspired by Oscar Niemeyer’s National Congress building and its sleek, modern lines. The small-footprint organiser is a functional answer to keeping clutter organised. Linea boasts a wide range of applications, from the office to kitchen to bathroom to bedside. The interchangeable components, and simple design allow you to mix ‘n’ match colours to suit your décor. You can grab these organisers in either silicone or metal. For more information visit www.madebypen.com.
SONY
Turntable With Bluetooth Connectivity This premium piece of modern entertainment boasts its sleek, minimalist design. With Bluetooth connectivity, experience a new wireless freedom. Sony's Turntable has one-step auto playback which allows you to pick your favourite record. Its quality build also promotes a balanced and stable sound, paired with a thick and sturdy dust cover to resist resonance. Tune in via the Bluetooth transmitter with speakers, a soundbar or your headphones.
Homesty POLAROID NZ
OneStep +
SO WATT STUDIO
Adele Coffee Table
So Watt is a team of industrial designers who research, create and manufacture unique furniture pieces, shop fittings and products for consumers in both the private and public sector. By creating all their pieces in their Marrickville workshop they can create items efficiently without compromising quality. You can order the Adele Coffee Table, choosing either a smoke or clear glass top, to stock at your store or to use as a gorgeous centrepiece to display stock. Made with 66 individual Tasmanian Oak dowels against a precisely cut inner structure, allowing the dowels to have a floating appearance. For more information visit www.sowatt.com.au.
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Polaroid is back and better than ever. With more ways to play, it’s no surprise the OneStep + is a top seller. The OneStep + is the iconic Polaroid instant camera reinvented, with Bluetooth wireless technology you can connect to the Polaroid Originals app and unlock six creative tools. Discover double exposure, light painting, a remote trigger and manual mode – all of which enable you to push your creativity to the limits. A secondary portrait lens allows you to get closer to your subject with a sharper focus. Its powerful flash and long-lasting rechargeable battery lets you shoot anywhere, any time. Polaroid NZ is looking for retailers to partner with for in-store pop ups. For more information, email: nz.sales@brandsaustralia.comor call: 09 801 0019.
BENTLEY & HART
Oriental Orchid Candle
STUDIO ENTI
Bentley & Hart’s one by one collection of candles encompasses the meticulous, step by step process behind their opulent scents, hand crafted in New Zealand and lovingly made with exquisite fragrances to soothe and revive the soul. Their Oriental Orchid, available in both a white or black jar is a divine romantic fusion of oriental florals, sandalwood and amber, resulting in an enticing exotic ambience. These candles are available in various sizes, from travel tins through to 260-gram jars which come with their gorgeous bespoke metal lids. For more information visit www.bentleyandhart.co.nz.
Large Jug
Created with Australian porcelain with a matte glaze, these jugs are perfect to use as a pitcher or to display some fresh flowers. Nonetheless, it is versatile, timeless, and works with every space. In various neutral shades of blue, greys and whites, you’ll find a jug that works for you. Studio Enti pieces are all handmade by ceramicist Naomi Taplin. With a strong belief in the importance of good design and longevity, Studio Enti pieces are versatile and beautiful. For more information visit www.studioenti.com.au.
yle
IN BED
200TC Washed Cotton Bedding In Bed’s Washed Cotton bedding range uses 200 thread count percale cotton, making them light and breathable, perfect for a summer’s night. This range entails a relaxing nights sleep as the bedding sees a similar look to their popular linen range but with a crisper cotton feel. In beautiful and modern colourways of pale pink, calming green and a clean white, you can instantly transform your space to suit your aesthetic. Not only do these pieces look great, they feel great, and that’s a must for bedding all round. For more information visit www.inbedstore.com.
LEVEL LOUNGE COLLECTION
Danish Furniture
Designed by Henrik Pedersen, the LEVEL collection is a minimalist modular outdoor set. The modules can be combined in a variety of ways to fit your space. Its lightweight frame is coated with powder gray aluminum and is easy to move around. The cushions are firm yet extremely durable and comfortable. The dark gray fabric also has a 1000 hour UV protection guarantee. Complementing the modular couch is a large bamboo coffee table. This can be uniquely mixed in with the layout of the couch and matching ottoman. For more information visit www.danishfurniture.nz or email drew@danishfurniture.co.nz
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accessory alert
VANIA
V A N I A started from the desire and aim of keeping the art of handmade, alive. V A N I A takes inspiration from nature and its varying colours, music and how it makes us feel to the ever-enriching experience of travel. V A N I A designs for all dreamers and wandering souls. Each piece is handcrafted with love, care and dedication here in New Zealand, utilizing A-grade gemstones and semi-precious metals only. V A N I A has launched three beautiful and unique collections up to date. Amuleto bracelets being their debut range. These bracelets allow wearers to be constantly reminded of the healing powers of gemstones and to be connected to Mother Nature no matter where they are or what they do. Then things got a bit more girly and sparkly with the launch of their Stardust bracelet range. Stardust is comprised by dainty fine and iridescent bracelets that resemble the night sky. Designed to be stacked together, this range is great for evening adventures or daytime wandering. The V A N I A brand ethos encapsulates the feelings of daydreaming of faraway places, of our lovers and of warmer days. Thus, we see the birth of their third range. Their Daydreamer earrings are handmade from scratch with 14 karat gold-filled wire. Effortless but luxe, timeless but with a bohemian edge is what describes V A N I A. The brand encourages people to try new things, to travel, to explore and most importantly to stay curious. For more information visit www.vaniatruchsess.co.nz or follow them at @vania.co.nz.
ARTICLE REMOVED
14 I March 2020
D/K DISTRIBUTION DK Distribution NZ imports a range of Scandinavian and European jewellery and accessory brands with Dyrberg/Kern and Joidart being their most popular longstanding iconic brands. Other brands include Lily and Rose, Edblad, Markberg (leather handbags/gloves), and Bella Ballou (scarves). These brands provide seasonal collections and variations that invite excitement and interest. All the brands that DK Distribution import have amazing female designers. Their brands are all based on the classic Scandi principles of simplicity, minimalism and functionality. Moreover, Joidart is made in Spain by local artisans, showcasing a unique handmade aesthetic. DK Distribution is omni channel. Trading under the Dyrberg/Kern brand, it has ecommerce and retail stores in Wellington and Christchurch. They hope to amplify their presence in the North Island and New Zealand as a whole. Dyrberg/Kern itself is jewellery from Denmark and is still led by Gitte Dyrberg and Henning Kern themselves. The design duo have been with the brand since 1985 and have created exclusive handcrafted designs that reflect modern simplicity. Dryberg/Kern aims to offer every woman the exquisite feel of luxury every day. It’s Scandi-beauty and cool competence that is in the brand’s DNA which allows every piece of Dyrberg/Kern jewellery to be recognised in the streets. Accessorize with pieces that range from elegant and dainty through too big and bold. The choice is yours. Their all-time classics still remain being the Louise Earring, Conian Bracelet and the Ette Necklace. To stock brands like Dyrberg/Kern email penny@dyrbergkern.co.nz, or for more information on all the brands visit www.dyrbergkern.co.nz.
X NIHILO
Established in 2016, X NIHILO is an honest brand that creates the highest quality of leather bags. Targeting strong women within a generation with the desire to express individuality and personality. Their classic and timeless designs are mode for go-getters and women of substance. X NIHILO bags are designed in Melbourne and manufactured in one of China’s top leather factories. Crafted by artisans using custom hardware with every edge hand painted with care. Moreover, they offer a unique personalisation option for bags to include letters and/or quotes. All painted by calligraphy artists from Quirky by Design based also in Melbourne. One of our favourite X NIHILO bags is the Eight Mini, mini by name, but not mini by nature. Through thoughtful design, this bag is spacious, fully lined with in-built card slots and phone compartments so everything is easy to find and wonderfully organised while you’re on the go. Made from a soft Nappa leather, wear it as a cross body or carry it by the handles. This bag is versatile, roomy and perfect for your day to day activities. For more information visit www.xnihilo.com.au or follow them at @xnihilo_ official.
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colour trending
AGNONA Resene Swiss Caramel
T
urtlenecks have been a staple piece for the cooler months of Fall for decades. First worn in 1860s by polo players and then throughout the 19th century by people of the working class. At times referred to as the ‘polo neck’, but now more commonly known as the turtleneck. This wardrobe staple soon transferred to a womenswear staple as they add not only extra warmth, but also class. Paired with casual pieces, it easily elevates any look. Designer Sara Cavazza Facchini plays with an array of different textures when designing Genny’s ready-to-wear Fall 2020 collection. From fitted suit co-ordinates to wrap coats and extremely oversized fur coats. One design that caught our eye in this
16 I March 2020
MISSONI Resene Freelance
collection was this white turtleneck dress. With short and angled bell sleeves, a high neckline and a flowy a-line skirt, it successfully highlights the classiness of this whole collection. All in a warmwhite wash similar to Resene Quarter Spanish White. Put together with a pair of sleek black boots and an oversized satin scarf in a matching colourway adds depth to this flowy, layered ensemble effortlessly. Angela Missoni’s design for Missoni’s Fall 2020 collection sees inspiration from geometric shapes and elements. Straight lines, silhouettes and cuts in maroon, seafoam green and blue grace the stage in this collection. The interesting colour combinations, however, draw our attention towards the geometric
GENNY Resene Quarter Spanish White
shapes and patterns seen on these garments instead. This outfit sees an explosion of pattern and colour. The slouchy jacket has a busy yellow, blue and black triangular patchwork pattern all throughout. Paired with a spotty-patterned loose pant in similar colours to match. The seafoam green and navy striped turtleneck brings together these two loud pieces, as it incorporates a complimentary green hue, similar to Resene Freelance. Elegant and chic describes Ermanno Scervino’s Fall collection perfectly this year. From beautifully embroidered coats to fitted suits and full-length dainty occasion dresses. With most of this collection in a black and white colour palette, we see pops
ERMANNO SCERVINO Resene Salsa
of green and red show up every now and then. Specifically, this deep plum tone seen in this turtleneck knit. The neckline of this turtleneck however is higher than most, reaching all the way up to the ears, keeping as much warmth in as possible. Paired with a sparkly sequin skirt and elegant black heels, it completes this casual but dressed-up look, with the gorgeous deep plum hue akin to Resene Salsa. Agnona designer, Simon Holloway, showcased a minimal collection of menswear and womenswear for Fall 2020. With looks in neutral hues of caramel, light blues, stone whites and greys, it allows us to focus on the cut and silhouette of each look even
PIAZZA SEMPIONE Resene White Pointer
closer. This ensemble in particular is presented in one singular caramel wash. The slouchy full-length knit dress incorporates an extreme drop-shoulder sleeve with a high loose turtleneck. The warm tone of this look is similar to Resene Swiss Caramel. Design duo Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi’s Fall 2020 collection for Piazza Sempione is inspired by Anjelica Huston’s style from the 70s. This collection proves to be a more commercial offering for the brand with garments showing a mix between elegance and femininity. This layered look in a light white and beige palette sees different variations of the simple grid pattern. Layered under a fitted blazer we see a loose-fit turtleneck, effortless and cosy. This
BOSS Resene Raging Bull
simple layering technique allows the turtleneck knit to peek out from the cuffs as well as being able to completely transform the neckline of this look; with the turtleneck in a shade like Resene White Pointer. Boss’ ready-to-wear Fall 2020 collection saw an array of cohesive hues ranging from burnt oranges, bright lilacs through to sandy neutrals and navy. This collection saw various structured suits, long-line coats with a multitude of layered looks. This extreme turtleneck sweater in a deep terracotta hue is paired perfectly with a midi-length patchwork satin skirt. The contrast in textures in this look brings magic to this otherwise casual pairing, with the turtleneck in a tone like Resene Raging Bull.
apparelmagazine.co.nz
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beauty spot
HURRAW! Balm Since 2010, HURRAW! Have made their balms with one thing in mind: you. To ensure quality of their lip balms and their wider range of products are at the highest level, they produce in their dedicated NOP and EcoCert certified manufacturing facility. The HURRAW! Balm is organic, vegan and made from raw ingredients. Basic skincare needs are simple, and you can achieve it with using just a few plant-based products. All the ingredients used in these balms are listed clearly so there is no guessing game of what goes in. Filled with cacao butter, almond oil, argan oil and much more, your lips will be left feeling smooth and nourished in no time. To stock these HURRAW! Balms or for more information, visit www.hurrawbalm.com.
8+ Minute X-20 is the latest product range from 8+MINUTE. With a focus on personal hygiene, X-20 has launched an antibacterial Sanitising Gel that is 75 percent alcohol-based gel, killing 99.9 percent of the most common bacteria. The 80ml tube is small in size, lightweight and easy to carry when travelling. A single use keeps your hands clean and hygienic within seconds. While highly concentrated alcohol-based sanitisers can leave your hands dry and irritated, the X-20 Hand Sanitising Gel looks after your skin with added natural leaf and root extracts. After applying to your hands, the Ethyl Alcohol evaporates fast, leaving the natural essences to nourish and moisturise the skin. This unique formula leaves your hands feeling refreshed and sanitised. The X-20 Hand Sanitiser contains: Ethyl Alcohol, Water, Salvia Miltiorrhiza Root Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Leaf Extract, Galla Rhois Extract, Panax Notoginseng Root Extract, Astragalus Complanatus Extract and more. These effective natural ingredients protect your skin as well as help prevent the spread of germs. It’s perfect for the whole family. To stock the X-20 Hand Sanitiser or for more information visit www.jemarose.co.nz.
Simplenakedsoap Simplenakedsoap burst into life on a small South Otago farm four years ago and have not looked back. These soaps are hand crafted, 100 percent New Zealand made from natural edible ingredients. This includes their own full fat raw goat milk as a primary ingredient in their shampoo bars, body bars and foaming hand washes. Simplenakedsoap is changing lives and giving everybody an alternative to the artificial emulsifier, stabiliser and preservative-filled skincare products sold today. Simplenakedsoap does not conform to ‘the norm’ by farming as organically as possible. Their farms are spray-free, so their goats are always happy. Happy goats = happy milk = happy shampoo and body bars. Simplenakedsoap Shampoo bars are famous for being plastic-free and wastefree. Moreover, the Shampoo bars do not need to be coupled with a conditioner. Simplenakedsoap are changing decades of bathroom habits and forcing others to follow suit. If something is truly natural, there is no need for a conditioner. Their Shampoo bars feature natural ingredients such as beer, chocolate, egg yolk and Nettle tea. These ingredients are no gimmick, they are deliberately selected to nourish, moisturise and condition, leaving your hair knot and tangle free. For more information visit www.simplenakedsoap.co.nz. #fromourfarmtoyourshower
18 I March 2020
The Ordinary The Ordinary is a brand that celebrates integrity in its most humble and true form. Specialising in materials chemistry and biochemistry, The Ordinary have brought pioneering innovation into skincare. The Daily Set includes a Squalane Cleanser, Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 and Natural Moisturising Factors + HA. These are three products that work together to support skin health, provide gentle cleansing, remove makeup and provide multi-depth hydration. Firstly, the Squalane Cleanser is a gentle cleansing product that targets makeup removal whilst leaving the skin feeling smooth and moisturised. Secondly, the Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 is a hydration support formula that combines lowmedium and high-molecular weight HA and a HA crosspolymer for multi-depth hydration in an oil-free formula. Lastly, the Natural Moisturising Factors + HA is a formula that offers non-greasy instant hydration with lasting results. The Ordinary continues to create skincare products that work, taking pride and integrity in all the work they do. For more information or to stock The Ordinary visit www.theordinary.com.
Beauty Dust Co. Beauty Dust Co.’s new Hydrate Shampoo has clean ingredients that give an incredibly rich lather whilst being extremely hydrating. The Hydrate Conditioner has additional botanicals being the most nourishing formulation they have to date. With coconut oil, pro-vitamin B5, chamomile extract and manuka honey being active ingredients that cleanse and deeply nourish hair without stripping away its natural oils. With 100 percent natural rose essential oils, your hair will be smelling fresher than ever. Being a ‘clean’ product means every ingredient is non-toxic, safe, low allergenic and nonGMO. Further, Beauty Dust Co. products are free from sulphates, parabens, phthalates, palm oil and much more. This shampoo and conditioner pairing introduce a new environmentally friendly bottle. Using an innovative sugarcane bottle that help Beauty Dust Co. reduce their carbon footprint even more. Suited for all hair types. For more information visit www.beautydust.me.
Aleph Aleph Beauty believes that everyone deserves luxury and to radiate beauty without the cost of our planet. They do this by formulating products that support the health and wellbeing of us as well as the planet and animals. Aleph Beauty creates versatile makeup and skincare products that are premium and durable. Focusing on enhancing natural beauty, their products conceals sleepless nights making you camera ready in no time. The Aleph Beauty Serum/Primer is an effective, multitasking, concentrated formula that delivers active ingredients to the skin. These ingredients nourish, protects and repairs the skin whilst providing a perfect base for makeup to go on. With macadamia, oil-free jojoba extracts and milk thistle to deeply nourish whilst priming. This serum/primer is non-sticky, non-greasy, perfect to add to your morning routine. For more information visit www.alephbeauty.com.
apparelmagazine.co.nz
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edited
‘Made in China’ has dropped 16% – The impact of coronavirus on fashion. The coronavirus cheat sheet: unfolding the events of the outbreak and the knock-on effect across the retail landscape. Fears surrounding coronavirus continue to sweep the globe as the outbreak shows no signs of slowing. From the disruption of the fashion week circuit to delays in production, retailers across all sectors brace themselves for the inevitable impact.
TIMELINE • Jan 30th – Surgical face masks sell out online at Boots in the UK. • Jan 31st – WHO declares coronavirus a global emergency as the death toll exceeds 200, with 23 countries affected. The first cases are confirmed in the UK and by now, Russia, Singapore and Mongolia have all closed their borders to China. • Dec 31st, 2019 – The first cases are detected in Wuhan and patients are quarantined. China alerts the World Health Organization (WHO) and coronavirus is identified a week later. • Jan 11th, 2020 – The first death is reported followed by cases confirmed in Japan and Thailand over the next week. After the second death on Jan 17th, the US initiates the screening of passengers from Wuhan at major airports. • Jan 22nd – By this stage, the virus has infected over 500 people with cases detected in the US, Australia and South Korea. WHO officials meet in Geneva to discuss the need for declaring coronavirus as an international health emergency, but decide to wait for further developments. • Jan 23rd – Beijing cancels Lunar New Year celebrations and domestic travel bans are implemented throughout China. • Jan 27th – The Chinese government extend the Lunar New Year holiday to Feb 9th. • Jan 28th – LVMH, which are less reliant on Chinese manufacturing, release full-year financial results, stating they ‘expect the situation to be partly resolved by the end of March.’
20 I March 2020
• Feb 6th – The Capri Group, which own Jimmy Choo and Versace, announce the anticipation of a $100 million reduction due to the coronavirus. Burberry closes a third of its Chinese stores and states the impact will be more damaging to its Asian business than the civil unrest in Hong Kong, which resulted in halved sales during the last fiscal quarter. • Feb 7th – New York Fashion Week kicks off. By this stage, brands such as Nike, adidas, Levi’s, Apple, Ikea, H&M and Uniqlo have also temporarily closed Chinese locations. • Feb 9th – Extended Lunar New year holiday ends. The death toll passes 800 in China, overtaking SARS. • Feb 11th – Six Chinese designers announce they are pulling out of Paris Fashion Week due to the virus. Masha Ma, Shiatzy Chen, Uma Wang, Jarel Zhang, Calvin Luo and Maison Mai will be absent from the circuit. • Feb 12th – Mobile World Congress, the world’s largest mobile technology showcase, is canceled in Barcelona. • Feb 13th – Ralph Lauren expects a $55 million to
$70 million hit to its fourth-quarter sales in Asia. • Feb 14th – London Fashion Week kicks off with extra precautions in place, as well as a focus on virtual coverage to include the estimated 1,000 Chinese buyers, journalists and stylists unable to attend due to the outbreak. • Feb 18th – Milan Fashion Week begins and Dolce & Gabbana announces its partnership with Humanitas University to support coronavirus research. • Feb 19th – Gucci live stream its Fall 2020 show using Weibo to keep Chinese buyers engaged. • Feb 20th – Adidas report business activity in Greater China has been around 85 percent lower than the prior year since Chinese New Year with more details to come in March with the release of its full-year results. • Feb 21st – Premiere Vision Trade Show in Paris experiences a 16 percent decline in visitors due to the outbreak. However, it announces the launch of a new Chinese event to kick-start in November. Reports emerge that coronavirus could cause a €40 billion decline in luxury sales in 2020. • Feb 23rd – Giorgio Armani holds its Fall 2020 show behind closed doors. Turkey, Pakistan and Armenia close their borders with Iran. • Feb 24th – Paris Fashion Week kicks off. • Feb 27th – LVMH cancel a cocktail reception to celebrate its 2020 Prize for Young Fashion Designers.
REGIONS AFFECTED The coronavirus has in some way affected every point of the fashion industry’s critical path. Widespread now across 53 countries, businesses reliant on China will be impacted the hardest with expected delays across the supply chain. In Hong Kong, retailers such as Uniqlo have added disclaimers on their homepage, stating that delays for product launches in-store and online may be expected due to setbacks in manufacturing caused by the outbreak. Overall, new products available online in China have seen a significant drop compared to last year with a 74 percent decline in arrivals. However, despite the distinct lack of newness, product sell outs only fell by 19 percent on last year with consumer appetite still high as those on lockdown are potentially shopping out of boredom or frustration.
‘MADE IN CHINA’ DOWN 16% For many US and UK retailers, it is still too early to measure the full effect of coronavirus on their business. Overall arrivals have remained consistent, however a 16 percent decline has been noted on online styles described as ‘Made in China.’ Before coronavirus, the US trade war with China nudged retailers to explore alternative countries for sourcing and manufacturing. Amid the outbreak, the conversation around manufacturing closer to home has sparked and the aftermath will see retailers spread their business to mitigate future risk.
Widespread now across 53 countries, businesses reliant on China will be impacted the hardest with expected delays across the supply chain. HOW DID CNY COLLECTIONS PERFORM? In anticipation of what has traditionally been one of the biggest shopping events in the retail calendar, Chinese New Year collections were up by 45 percent compared to last year as brands everywhere tried to capitalize on the spring festival. With an already difficult zodiac character to market (the rat), the looming risk of the coronavirus appeared to impact online product shifts. Towards the end of February, CNY capsule collection items still available are currently reduced at an average of 38 percent – higher than for the same period last year, which saw remaining Year of the Pig products marked down at an average of 33 percent.
REACTIONS – WHO’S TALKING ABOUT IT Designers who were unable to present at fashion week took to social media and a slew of selfies featuring celebrities and influencers wearing surgical or ventilation masks also cropped up. In accordance with the runway season, the face masks have become something of a fashion accessory in addition to a means of protection. Gwyneth Paltrow and Leandra Medine both shared content on protection as they arrived in Paris. Taking a different approach, Prabal Gurung used his platform to call to attention the racism generating as a response to the outbreak, urging his followers to show up for one another and fight hate.
STATUS OF FUTURE EVENTS • Feb 01 – Mar 14: Six Nations Rugby – two games postponed • Mar 2020: Stormzy’s #HITH Asian Tour – postponed • Mar 15 – Nov 29: F1 Grand Prix Season: China – postponed; Australia/Bahrain/Vietnam – risk of cancellation • Mar 16 – Mar 21: Seoul Fashion Week – canceled • Mar 25 – 26: Beijing and Shanghai Fashion Week – postponed • May 12 – 23: Cannes Film Festival – risk of cancellation • Jul 24 – Aug 9: Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympic Games – risk of cancellation if outbreak not contained by late May • Sep 2 – 12: Venice Film Festival – risk of cancellation
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I 21
fashionable films
Mulan
Disney’s Mulan finally has their own live-action remake. A classic story about sacrifice and honour, we see Liu Yifei as Mulan, dressed by the talented costume designer Bina Daigeler. With cultural elements being extremely rich in this film, it is important that Daigeler makes the right costume choices for Liu and this all-star cast. Diageler has an abundance of experience costuming films with different cultural backgrounds, however, she is yet to dress a cast in full East-Asian heritage. The iconic characters in this film are undoubtedly dressed in garments that include traditional East-Asian elements taking inspiration from the original 1998 animated film. We see Mulan’s character develop throughout the film and we see Liu go through various costume changes as a result. From bright feminine gowns with intricate collar detailing through to muted and practical uniform attire suited for warfare. The costuming in this film is complex with a story behind every piece. It is hard to not find yourself admiring the craftmanship between each piece whilst you are watching this film.
The Invisible Man The Invisible Man is a classic horror-thriller that uses sound and music techniques to its fullest. Every emotion felt was emphasised with crescendos and deafening silences. The film follows Cecilia, a victim of abuse in her relationship. She escapes, but finds that the death of her ex is suspicious. She tirelessly aims to prove that he is still alive and is making her life difficult with every move. Costume designer, Emily Seresin, worked closely with Alex Holmes, production designer, to present Cecilia’s character as well as the set as far away from generic conventions as possible. The locations in the film do not parallel with homes we may generally see in horror films. Thus, Emily Seresin dresses Elisabeth Moss, who plays Cecilia in this film, as ‘normal’ as possible. Moss is seen in variations of sweatpants and a hoodie throughout the entirety of this film. This not only shows her emotional state due the traumas and physical abuse that she is experiencing, it also allows an everyday viewer to relate to Cecilia. Cecilia is just an everyday girl, and any viewer can put themselves in her shoes easily, making the film that extra bit more chilling.
The Current War
The Current War is a historical drama film that documents the rivalries and competition between famous inventors Thomas Edison and George Westinghouse, where they fight to gain monopoly over the electrical power system that is to be used in the United States. Costume designer Michael Wilkinson had a challenging role when designing clothing for the characters within this film. Firstly, he has chosen classic 1880s attire for the men. However, this film discusses the time before electricity has been fully implemented in everyday life, which means, the film was incredibly low lit to create an authentic
22 I March 2020
recreation of the time. The materials Wilkinson used were exaggerated in terms of textures and colours to ensure it was picked up by the camera. The women in the film go through costume changes that allows us to the tell the sense of time. The difference in early 1880s women’s fashion in comparison to the 1890s is quite drastic, whereas, men’s fashion did not parallel such shift. We understand the timeline this film is set in as we see the women transfer from wearing dress bustles to puffed sleeves towards the end. Nonetheless, the zeitgeist of the time is heightened through the talented work of Wilkinson.
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- Complete Sampling Service Pattermaking - Computerised Digitising & Grading - Computerised Marker Making - Sample cutting with Fabric Estimates - Sample Making - Production Runs - Production Cutting Call the team (09) 369 9249 / 021425149 or email helenh@hsr.co.nz / oliviah@hsr.co.nz 21D PORANA RD, WAIRAU VALLEY
Top quality products require the best quality. You’re lucky. We’ve got the best threads, needles and accessories
Top quality products require the best quality. You’re lucky. We’ve got the best threads, needles and accessories for you.
terryapparel.co
terryapparel.co.nz
apparel@terrys.co.nz tel: +64 9 966 1832
Top quality products require the best quality. You’re lucky. We’ve got the best threads, needles and accessories for you.
24m Allright Place, Mount Wellington Private Bag 14-935, Panmure, Auckland 1741
apparel@terrys.co.nz terryapparel.co.nz tel: +64 9 966 1832
24m Allright Place, Mount Wellington
apparel@terrys.co.nz Private Bag 14-935, Panmure, Auckland 1741 tel: +64 9 966 1832 24m Allright Place, Mount Wellington Private Bag 14-935, Panmure, Auckland 1741
Joining your product
Joining your product
apparelmagazine.co.nz
I 23
@ravenandrose
www.ravenandroselingerie.com