$ 9.00
APRIL 2015 I VOL 48 I NO 4
INTO THE REAL WORLD pg 11
04 18 20 25
NEWS GINGER SNAPS RADAR TRENDWATCH
FASHIONABLE
EDITOR’S letter #efairness
A NEW campaign has been launched to close the loophole and give Kiwi taxpayers and businesses a fair go. Currently, GST and duty is not paid on most goods worth less than $400 that are bought from foreign retailers. Not only is this a problem for local businesses and Kiwi jobs but also Government finances as they have been missing out on more than $200-500 million every year due to this tax loophole. Due to GST and duty not being collected on goods purchased overseas under the current threshold, New Zealanders who don’t shop offshore have to pay more in tax to make up the hole in Government revenue and Kiwi businesses automatically face at least a 15 per cent price disadvantage and are unable to compete with foreign websites. New Zealand seems to be far behind that of other countries where duty is collected on most low value goods such as $29 in UK, $21 in Canada and $31 in Germany. With New Zealanders spending around $1.5
billion on overseas websites and climbing, Retail NZ and Booksellers NZ have launched the #efairnessNZ campaign to call for Government action to fix the tax loophole. Solutions to the problem could require foreign retailers to register for GST in NZ and pass on the GST content just as local retailers do. This solution has already been implemented in South Africa and the European Union for digital goods and services for low-value goods. Another solution could be to bring the low value threshold into line with other countries. The government could lower the de minimis threshold to $25 and collect the duty as items cross the border if the retailer hasn’t already paid them, this would encourage foreign retailers to register for GST to provide better customer service.
Sarah
sarah@reviewmags.com
you’re INVITED. . . RIALTO Cinemas in Newmarket, Auckland has allocated 30 tickets for Apparel readers to David Bowie Is - A Cinematic Tour of the Groundbreaking Exhibition movie. The special screening is on Thursday May 7th at 7pm. If you would like to see this incredible movie, please email jessica@reviewmags.com to have your name put on the list. HURRY ONLY 30 TICKETS AVAILABLE!
the NUMBERS . . .
READS
The Dress: 100 Ideas that Changed Fashion Forever
by MARNIE FOGG 100 ground breaking dresses are presented by Fogg with images, anecdotes and analysis. From Hervé Léger’s 1985 bandage dress to Christopher Kane’s 2006 neon revamp, these dresses all have a story to tell and this tome does not stop at the dresses alone. Past styles are reflected against modern day reinterpretations to show how designs are referenced and reborn over time.
ON THE COVER: TRISH PENG Couture Gown PHOTOGRAPHER Caitlan Mitchell MODEL Elise at 62Models HAIR Gabriele Houghton
Top 5 Women’s World Fall Trends
Cape shapes were up by
321%
Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland (150th Anniversary Edition with Dame Vivienne Westwood)
The number of turtleneck and roll-neck tops in stores has increased by
in December 2014 and continue to rise
208% in the last year
49% of black lace products are currently retailing in the mass market
Unisex products are gaining popularity, accessories in particular make up 52% of the unisex segment
36% of leather pants are currently retailing in the luxury market
SOURCE: The Big 5 Trends for Fall 2015, EDITD
PUBLISHER EDITOR SALES & MARKETING SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR EDITORIAL ASSITANT
ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DESIGNER
Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Jessica-Belle Greer - jessica@reviewmags.com Thomas Fowler - tommie@reviewmags.com Lisa Moriarty Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com
2 I April 2015
by LEWIS CARROLL Carroll’s twisting tale is celebrating a landmark 150th anniversary with a special edition illustrated and introduced by Dame Vivienne Westwood. Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland has inspired Westwoods’ mad hatter catwalk shows for her provocative and iconic British fashion brand. It is a wonder such a pairing has not come sooner.
PHOTOGRAPHER CIRCULATION/ADMIN
Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com
ISSN 1171-2287
Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.
Have I Said Too Much? My Life In and Out of The Model Agency
by CAROLE WHITE Co-founder of the highly successful Premier Model Management, Carole White, boldly reveals her experience of surviving the industry with the world’s first supermodels. Particularly juicy, is White’s relationship truths about Naomi Campbell, however the whole book is shockingly honest in its own right.
behind the business
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MOBILE WALLET SEMBLE LAUNCHES
THE PERFECT BODY CAMPAIGN
UK lingerie brand Curvy Kate decided to put an open casting call out for their new ad campaign instead of opting for a modeling agency. This resulted in more than 1000 women from Australia, America and the UK of all shapes and sizes entering to be part of the “Every Body Is Beautiful” campaign. The ten finalists were chosen and took part in a photoshoot and a winner will be decided based on public vote. One of the finalists had some modeling experience but was put off quickly as a teenager due to derogatory comments made about her curves. “I’ve always loved having an hourglass figure, but the industry made me question myself,” said Megan McGinn.
New Zealand’s first mobile wallet, Semble, launched nationally this month. Close to one million smartphone users around the country will be able to download the free Semble app to make secure payments using only their smartphone. Semble brings together mobile network operators (2degrees, Spark and Vodafone) with banking partners (ASB and BNZ) and payments network Paymark to offer the first-ever integrated mobile wallet to New Zealanders. According to Semble CEO, Rob Ellis, the collaboration is unique on a global scale. “Other mobile wallets have launched around the world, but Semble is the first to present a united front with many industry leaders working together,” said Ellis. “We have produced a mobile wallet that can cater for a wide range of services. We look forward to welcoming many more service providers to the Semble marketplace, including more banks as well as loyalty cards, public transport cards, ticketing, offers, vouchers and much more.” For more information, updates and new partner announcements visit semble.co.nz and follow @semblenz.
CRANE BROTHERS FOR JAGUAR
Contemporary menswear tailors, Crane Brothers, have partnered with Jaguar naming founder Murray Crane as the first official New Zealand ambassador for the luxury car brand. Crane has designed the ultimate Jaguar x Crane Brothers suit featuring the precision, craft and luxury materials for which both brands are known. “For Crane Brothers as a business, this partnership represents an enormous opportunity to work with an international brand in such a significant way,” said Crane. “Personally it inspires me to continue to raise the standard of what we do and reward our clients by continuing to improve and develop.” Designed for the ultimate New Zealand gentleman, with a contemporary twist, the luxury fine worsted wool in navy pinstripe from British cloth merchants Dugdale Bros & Co, who have been making fine cloth since 1896. The tailored two piece suit is lined in British racing green, a nod to the hugely successful Jaguar Villains campaign.
PUMPKIN PATCH SEEKS PROPOSALS
After shares losing two thirds of their value in the past year, children’s clothing retailer Pumpkin Patch is seeking formal proposes following recent offers to buy or refinance the company. According to the Auckland-based retailer, third parties have proactively indicated an interest in the company since announcing a capital review at the November annual meeting. “The board believes it is in the company’s interests to seek formal proposals in respect of either an acquisition of the company or in respect of recapitalisation,” said chairman Peter Schuyt and chief executive Di Humphries in a statement. It is believed that the rise in the New Zealand dollar against the Australian dollar had a negative impact on the business compared with the previous year.
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Swim Wear Cycling Wear Merino Wool Garments School Uniforms Fit & Formal Wear Casual Shirts & Blouses Casual Knitted Garments
We are a 100% export oriented manufacturing company based in Nadi, Fiji Islands. Our commitment is to provide superior quality garments within short delivery times whilst focusing on customer satisfaction at all times.
We specialize in the following products:
We are a 100% export oriented manufacturing company based in Nadi, Fiji Islands.
• School Uniforms • Swim Wear • Merino Wool Garments • Cycling Wear • Fit & Formal Wear • Casual Shirts & Blouses • Casual Knitted Garments
Our commitment is to provide superior quality garments within short delivery times whilst focusing on customer satisfaction at all times. For further information please feel free to contact us at: Nagsun Apparels Fiji Limited Navakai, Nadi, Fiji Islands Email info@nagsun.com.fj Web www.nagsunapparelfiji.com
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PHOTO: Masanori Udagawa
news
BRAVE + TRUE SUMMER 15
WELLINGTON FASHION WEEK CANCELLED
Just a week out from opening, Wellington Fashion Week confirmed to be cancelled this year. Organiser Cameron Sneddon said that he couldn’t get the financial commitment from the designers this year but hopes to continue the event next year. Spokesman for the Wellington City Council, who is one of the sponsors of the event, said that the money would be transferred to next year. This year’s cancellation, according to Sneddon, was not related to previous complaints from models and contractors not being paid.
FLORENCE AND MARY ACQUIRE CHRISTABEL’S
Christabel Liberty Dress Fabric has been sold to Havelock North based business, Florence and Mary. After 31 years of being involved with Liberty Fabric – buying it, stitching it and marketing it, owner Christabel felt is was time to spend more time with family and friends and to sell the business. “The history of the Liberty ‘brand’ and its ongoing legacy has always fascinated me and I think this is the time to handover to someone who I know will take this amazing legacy forward,” said Christabel. New owner, Florence and Mary is owned and operated by Barbara Harder who is a sewer and a quilter who also has a passion for the Liberty legacy. Florence and Mary can be contacted by emailing florenceandmary@xtra.co.nz or 06 8776975.
Rayna Hooper, founder of Australian’s eponymous lifestyle brand Holiday/Talisman and Brave + True has always felt like a citizen of the world, so in 2009 when she decided to launch the label, and take on a whirlwind life of international roaming, it seemed like a natural path to follow. Designed and curated in her seaside home of Robe, South Australia, Holiday’s collections including Brave + True, have become synonymous with stunning colour, bespoke prints and effortless style. The collection was designed to be bold, fearless, Brave and True to individuals, encouraging consumers to try a new direction and pick an uncharted path to follow. This label is imbued with the essence of adventure and discovery, but also the personal quest to express oneself through style. It features modern silhouettes, streamlined fabrics and a contemporary colour palette. Brave and True is available in stores now. www.ballagencies.com. SALES AGENTS: Harriet - 027 495 5119 / Jo - 021 723 004, HarrietandJo@gmail.com.
NO BREAKS FOR COTTON ON
After a public outrage over potential cuts to compulsory tea and meal breaks for employees working at the Auckland distribution centre (DC), apparel retailer Cotton On Group has responded saying that no changes have been made to workers’ rights in any DCs. “Negotiations are currently in place between the Cotton On Group and First Union, with no agreement having yet been made,” said the retailer in a statement. “The Cotton On Group is committed to having highly engaged staff and we have an effective two way communication process in place, by way of implementation of our consultative committees which exist in each of our DCs globally, allowing each and every one of our people to have a voice. “The Cotton On Group will, and has always intended to, maintain paid tea breaks for all New Zealand distribution centre employees as part of our commitment to the health and wellbeing of our team members.” Cotton On Group owns and operates the chains, Cotton On, Cotton On Body, Rubi, Factorie, Typo and Cotton On Kids.
HUTT CITY HOSTS ECO FASHION
New Zealand’s only eco fashion designer runway event is set to be held in Lower Hutt come June. This year’s showcase of sustainable, ethical and cutting edge fashion, from New Zealand and abroad, is expected to be the biggest yet. “This event is sure to capture the imagination, with a perfect fusion of style and innovation to bring ethical products to the forefront of fashion,” said event director Denise Anglesey.
“We’ve received queries from across the globe, and are thrilled with early interest from designers. Local brands Dane Dagger and Heke Design are joining us for a third year along with newcomers Recreate.” Exclusive movie screenings, pop-up shops, two runway shows, styling events are all part of the full four-day schedule. This year’s event provides the opportunity for established designers to showcase their collections under the ethical spotlight, along with categories for new and student designers, and eco-related businesses and organisations.
#camel
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L’OREAL PARIS LAUNCHES APP
Global beauty brand L’Oréal Paris has introduced an innovative augmented reality makeup simulator where the make-up moves with your face. While traditional make-up simulators set makeup on a static image, L’Oréal’s app provides a service that delivers a startling realistic result. The technology of 3D imagery from cinema and video games has, for the first time, been put to the service of the makeup industry and enables users to try L’Oréal Paris products and access easy to understand tutorials by the company’s makeup designers. Patented facial tracking algorithm that enables precise facial recognition through a live mirror camera captures 64 facial points and up to 100 expressions while tracking head movements up to 60 degrees. Kiwi consumers are encouraged to download the app available free on iPhone and Android devices.
TRIUMPH PARTNERS WITH DRESS FOR SUCCESS
Triumph is on a global mission to fit 500,000 women with ‘Find the One’. As part of the campaign launched in March, Triumph Lingerie is partnering with specialty lingerie stores across Australia and New Zealand to support Dress for Success by providing a significant donation of bras to benefit deserving women in need. The campaign that ends mid-April, saw Triumph donate one bra to Dress for Success for every 20 bras purchased by nominated stores across the country. Dress for Success aims to help women in need transform their lives and achieve financial independence. “With an estimated donation value of $50,000, this partnership aims to raise much needed awareness for the Dress for Success charity, as well as encourage consumers to get involved, get fitted and contribute to the donation of lingerie,”said Nicola Hodgson, head of brand for Triumph Australia and New Zealand. Triumph is in over 120 countries and serves 40,000 wholesale customers.
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GRADUATE SHOWS AT LONDON AND PARIS FASHION WEEKS
2014 Massey graduate, Lucilla Gray, has shown the debut collection for her eponymous label at London and Paris Fashion Weeks. Gray submitted her work to Fashion Scout London, one of the UK’s largest emerging fashion designer launch pads, and was chosen to showcase her Fall/Winter 15/16 collection at their Paris Fashion Week showroom. Designers are selected by a panel of industry experts consisting of leading buyers, media and business advisors, including Sara Maino, senior fashion editor Vogue Italia, Hilary Alexander, fashion director of The Daily Telegraph, and Jessica Bumpus, fashion features editor at Vogue.com, based on the creative vision of their brand, quality of work and business potential. Gray also debuted her Fall/Winter 15/16 collection at London Fashion Week’s Somerset House with The British Fashion Council and her PR agency, Lewis and Leigh PR. Gray’s collection explores minimalism and minerals. The collection consists of key separates injected with abstract print and vibrant colour blocking. Angular lines, featured in the malachite print, continue throughout the collection building upon the brands identity of strong silhouettes and clean cuts. Gray has won multiple class prizes for design excellence innovation and creativity, shared with Sean Kelly, during her Bachelor of Design Honors in Fashion. She was also a finalist and award winner at iD Dunedin 2013.
footwear news
WALKING SUPERSOCK
FIRST choice for the most vibrant yet wearable footwear, Skechers have just released the GOwalk 2 Supersock. The Supersock is a combination of Skechers’ innovative performance technologies and materials designed specifically for walking. The result is a virtually seamless shoe that feels like a sock. The range spans across a range of colours, including pink, light to bright blues, orange, green and yellow, as well as classic neutral tones like taupe, grey and black. The Supersock is available at all stockists nationwide, including the three flagship Skechers stores, Albany, Queen St and St Lukes.
GARNIER X KATHRYN WILSON
LEADING New Zealand shoe designer Kathryn Wilson has teamed up with beauty brand Garnier for an exclusive ambassador deal in conjunction with Garnier’s BB cream. Garnier handpicked Wilson as the face for its BB cream based on her multi-tasking, entrepreneurial role in fashion, business and leadership. “Kathryn fully embodies the Garnier brand and is a perfect match for the Garnier BB Cream which, like Kathryn’s footwear, is a firm favourite in New Zealand,” said Garnier marketing manager, Shannon Watts. The partnership will see Wilson create a rendition of her classic nude ballerina flat (BB Ballerina Flat). Recreated in a shade to match the product, the limited run ballerina flat was designed to mimic the multi-tasking characteristics of the BB cream and will only be available through competitions held in various New Zealand media and on the Garnier Facebook page.
SMART SHOE TECHNOLOGY
WORKING towards an ideal scenario of having a shoe for every occasion, iShüu Technologies has introduced a high-heeled shoe that can change colour according to orders from a smart phone app. Available in black or white, the shoe contains a flexible display and links to an app that allows the wearer to change the colour and pattern on the display to decorate the heels with a totally new look. In addition to this, the heels come with fasteners on the front and back where accessories can be attached. The company is hoping to raise $50,000 on Indiegogo to fund the early stages of the project.
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MUNRO FAMILY ACQUIRE MORE BUSINESS
AUSTRALIAN fashion footwear retailer Wanted Shoes has been acquired by Melbourne based Munro Family Group. The acquisition is another in a longterm growth plan for the company, following its acquisition of Australia’s largest online footwear retailer, Styletread. Included in the acquisition was the 17 retail stores Wanted operates, with new plans to broaden the reach and expand nationwide. Staff numbers at Munro Family Group will double with the acquisition
HAILWOOD SHOES
THE vision was of a retro women’s basketball boot made entirely in leather with a plain black and white embossed signature. The boot is a compliment to the new denim range coming out next summer and integrates essential Hailwood signatures for a fresh and elegant look. Suede nappa slides with signature embroidered prints of seahorses and lobsters tie in the footwear line to the summer prints seen on Hailwood’s tees and knitwear.
from 200 to 400, with the family stating its devotion to Australian retail and the potential growth it has. “The industry may be tough, but we believe it has a bright future. Wanted is a long-term family business that has been running for over 20 years. They are excited to hand over [the business] to someone with the drive to take the brand to the next level,” said the Munro family.
ACCENT GROUP TO BE BOUGHT BY RCG AUSTRALIAN investment holding company RCG, who operates a number of footwear businesses, is set to pay between A$180 million to A$200 million for competing business Accent Group. Accent Group, who own Platypus, Skechers, Vans, and Timberland shows, operate 97 stores across Australasia and reported retail sales of $A120 million in 2014. Along with its own brands, Accent Group also holds the Australian and New Zealand licences to various international
END TO END Creative Solutions THE genius behind creative solutions that range across multiple resources, Three Sixty Limited are the best when it comes to fit out and artistic execution. Boasting a broad spectrum of experience, Three Sixty have worked with big name clients including Trelise Cooper, Smirnoff Vodka, Samsung, Jay Jays and Nintendo. The fast turnover and expert opinion of the team at Three Sixty has seen the company grow from a small metal workshop 15 years ago into a multi-faceted creative design and manufacturing enterprise based in Albany providing services for both new and repeat clients. One of its more memorable fitouts was the execution of Bundaberg’s Distillatoriam, an award winning promotional roadshow for Bundaberg Australia. The roadshow packs into converted containers holding a full museum with a 2 metre high carved wooden bear, tasting room, distillary and POS bar. \“As part of an interior fitout we had a theme of ‘the library of curiosity’. The idea was to reward the curious visitor with obscure surprises within the space they were submerge in. One of those hidden gems was this two headed taxidermy duckling,” Three Sixty’s full workshop and storage facilities across Australasia guaranteed the fast turnover of the Distrillatorium, working with all materials in house including glass, wood, stainless steel, alluminum, plastics, acrylic and all metals. The ability to run a 24 hour production gives Three Sixty the upper hand, with highly skilled installation teams to provide a smooth, on time delivery and set up regardless of where the job is situated. Comprised of 45 specially skilled staff from a variety of different trades, the Three Sixty service includes but is not limited to engineering, carpentry, sheet metal work, welding, shop fitting, installation, project management, printing and design services. The start to finish attitude and facilities Three Sixty provide have grown strong customer bonds, repeat business, and industry hype as the leading creative solution provider across a multitude of industries.
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brands including Dr Martens, Stance, K Swiss, and Palladium – all of which will be transferred to RCG. “The company’s strategy is to acquire distribution and retail businesses in the footwear and active lifestyle space. There are few, if any businesses that meet this brief better than Accent Group,” said Hilton Brett, CEO of RCG. Additionally, Accent Group recently took over the leases for all Bing, Harris & Co stores following its closure.
education
INTO THE REAL WORLD
Apparel speaks to fashion educators around the country to discover initiatives and lecturers that are making a difference to how students prepare for changing industry trends.
SUE PRESCOTT
Massey University College of Creative Arts Sue Prescott is a major coordinator and lecturer for The School of Design at Massey University College of Creative Arts, but most recently she has been an exhibitor at Aalto University in Helsinki, Finland. Titled Critical Costume 2015 the international conference and exhibition of costume is run by the School of Arts, Design and Architecture at Aalto. One amongst an international group of exhibitors Prescott’s design work, Seeing Sound, Hearing Light 2, explores mediated fashion, costume and digital technologies. New design practices and performance are incorporated in this piece, including wearable technology and digitally printed fabrics depicting imagery from urban and coastal environments. The work explores the idea of clothing functioning as a means of communication whilst linking people with environments. Prescott presented her proposal to Aalto University when they made a call for candidates in 2014. From conception the exhibition needed to include a short film, which is important to assist with the communication of visual information to audience, whilst offering a more immersive experience and setting for the garments. Prescott translated a mixed urban and coastal soundtrack from audio recordings into a visual
context through audio-responsive lighting embedded within the costumes that trigger light responses relative to the sounds within specific areas of the costume. Having designed costumes for operas, as well as commercial fashion design, the body is Prescott’s medium for what sculpture essentially is. For Prescott, fashion is a language and a means of communication. “The research areas of fashion, costume and performance art are intrinsically linked through the body,” said Prescott. Prescott was a costume designer for a dance and performance based piece named Masi in 2013. This is a prime example of how fashion had to apply to challenging functional requirements to fulfil the brief. Under the directorship of Nina Nawalowalo and working alongside Paul Kieve, a British illusionist whose body of work includes the Harry Potter films was incredibly rewarding to ideate and construct. Like working at Massey, working with this fantastic creative team was a really enjoyable experience. Prescott is English born and has worked in India, Pakistan, New York and Australia before moving to New Zealand 5 years ago. New Zealand is devoted to many aspects that align with Prescott’s design philosophy, such as a commitment to creativity. Being so geographically separated from the rest of the world, Prescott believes, has created such a strong identity in New Zealand fashion design – a place where Prescott can thrive.
SONYA KOROHINA Bay of Plenty Polytechnic
PREPARED GRADUATES WINTEC
The need for better prepared graduates with a higher level qualification has been voiced within industry forums. In consultation with industry partners, Wintec has been developing ideas to improve its fashion design offering and provide the workforce with work ready graduates. Wintec’s new programme has been designed to produce graduates capable of critical engagement and to further contribute to the fashion design industry. Wintec’s Bachelor of Media Arts Fashion Design intends to meet this need. Employers are seeking and requesting graduates with a higher level of work-readiness, so more workplace experiences are being integrated into the degree. A final year project of 30 credits
allows students to work on larger and more in-depth areas of study and an internship is a crucial advantage for graduates in the job market. To further incorporate industry appropriate skill development, the School of Media Arts also has a contracted Fashion Designer in Residence. Acting as a mentor to students the Fashion Designer in Residence is involved in giving real world advice and practicalities of the industry for added learning. The flexibility of the programme and focused aspects of the fashion business means this programme is well placed to meet the challenges of today’s constantly changing work environment.
The Bachelor of Creative Industries (BCI) is a three year full time qualification offered by the Bay of Plenty Polytechnic. Blending art, fashion and design in an interdisciplinary setting, the programme is taught in connected learning spaces supporting creativity and collaboration. Real world outcomes are a significant feature of the qualification. With lecturers being active in their own art practice, relevant research, and involvement in the local and national art communities. Sonya Korohina brings a rich diversity and wealth of experience in the creative field to this degree. Korohina has been project co‐ordinator of exhibitions at the Auckland Art Gallery, sponsorship manager for the Tauranga Arts Festival and organiser of the Public Art Talks - an initiative Korohina set up to foster the establishment of a public art policy in the Bay of Plenty. Korohina’s unique focus on collaborative projects fuses thinking with making and the business aspects of being a creative in today’s world. It is a concept generated in direct response to industry research
and one which Korohina, with her own experience in the field, is expert at delivering. “The collaborative projects are a significant part of years one, two and three on the BCI. Collaborative refers to the group work which is undertaken within the projects, which will most likely be creative or design focussed. Students literally launch a service, product or event, develop it, test it, brand it, test it again and launch it! In their first year the focus is not for profit, second year its profit based and in their third year they actually run their own business and learn to generate money,” said Korohina.
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education
INDUSTRY FOCUS AUT
A big part of AUT University’s strategic plan is to raise profiles through direct engagement with business. The second year of an AUT fashion degree now has a strong industry focus taken holistically with a studio paper based around industry projects. Projects include a design partnership with Zambesi, which successfully opened the Rookie graduate show in 2014, and most recently an experimental project for the outdoor sector with Kathmandu. The important aspect of these projects is that students are actually working with industry partners, getting direction and feedback on design development, fabrication and communication aspects. This direct engagement helps to build both professionalism and confidence amongst the students, as well as balancing the important mix of creative exploration and commercial focus. The AUT fashion students also engage with the industry through individual placements as part of
their Industry Practice paper during the degree. The industry is now so diverse that students are encouraged to focus on a specific interest. Topics range from small start- up enterprises, the role of buyer, PR, customer engagement and everything
in between. The learning experiences and insights can be integrated into student’s studies and beyond. Recent graduate Courtney Perham is a great example of this. Her successful internship with Lela Jacobs not only influenced her approach to fashion but
has resulted in her debut collection out on the 2nd of April. Overall the fashion sector is very supportive and in turn AUT really value these industry relationships that give students useful exposure to the business sector.
NATHAN INGRAM CPIT
ANNA DEACON SIT
SIT’s Bachelor of Fashion (Design and Technology) is an innovative hands on course that emphasises both the creative and technical aspects of the fashion industry from concept and design development through to production. The content of the programme includes a wide variety of fashion related topics such as: fashion design, costume design, pattern making, garment construction, computer aided pattern development, textiles, illustration and computer aided illustration along with business, marketing and management. The SIT Fashion department has a team of highly qualified staff to help mentor students. Anna Deacon has 17 years of world class industry experience and a first class Honors degree in Costume Interpretation. Working as a pattern drafter, cutter and tailor Deacon has been responsible for running workrooms from the Royal Opera House Covent Garden, making costumes for world leading dancers and international opera singers, to producing costumes for numerous West End and international productions, such as the musical Wicked. Since moving to New Zealand in 2007 Deacon focuses mainly on working within the film and fashion industries, as well as tutoring. Her most recent two and a half years were spent as the key costume pattern drafter and cutter for The Hobbit trilogy feature films. From her Queenstown workroom, Deacon is found busily running her own companies, Anna Deacon Couture, Pole Fitness Wear and Siren Vixen Photography. Deacon’s involvement with SIT provides students with a unique insight into both the fashion and costume industries, giving students knowledge to achieve their fashion dreams anywhere in the world. For those wanting to learn specific fashion skills without committing to a full time degree programme SIT’s Certificate in Pattern Making and Garment Construction or National Certificate in Clothing Manufacture could be the pathway to a future in the fashion industry.
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“The best way to succeed in the fast-paced and exciting world of fashion is to develop versatile skills and practical experience,” said CPIT fashion technology and fashion tutor Nathan Ingram. Before studying at CPIT himself, Ingram started off on the Macpac factory production line and subsequently worked as a pattern maker, design assistant and denim de-stresser. These simple beginnings gave him good basic skills but a qualification allowed him to go much further. Ingram then ran his own small brand and distributed nationwide to a dozen outlets. With a wide range of skills from working in different areas of the industry, Ingram has insight and knowledge to how the industry operates at different levels. “Because of my background I can provide students with expertise and support through design development, production and presentation,” said Ingram. “The fashion programme is truly focused on providing the industry with graduates that have a versatile skill base, are problem solvers and lifelong learners.” With a workroom experience from designing, planning, producing and showcasing individual garments and collections CPIT students enter the industry in a wide range of roles, or go on to run their own successful businesses. By the time they graduate, CPIT’s Diploma of Fashion Design and Technology students have shown their work in several professional contexts and received valuable industry feedback and exposure. For the mid-year showroom-style exhibition FORM, third-year students collections are designed to fit a brief negotiated with an industry client who they have been working closely with during their work placement. Clients include Lonely Hearts, taylor, RUBY, Kowtow and Stolen Girlfriends Club. They design and construct another entire collection for end of year catwalk show PITCH. “This practical experience is an essential preparation for a career in fashion,” Ingram said.
Let us help you make the best match.
Call JACQUI 09 309 5020 or visit www.nzfashiontech.ac.nz
education
JUNETTE WARD UCOL
APPAREL PRODUCTION
Junette Ward, Textiles/Fashion Design lecturer for Whanganui UCOL’s new Bachelor of Design and Arts degree, encourages students majoring in textiles and fashion to take chances. While she acknowledges text book techniques are important, Ward believes designers and pattern makers can achieve individuality only through intuitive exploration and experimentation. With an apparel industry background, Ward’s work has been showcased at WOW and Style Pasifika, and at NZ Fashion Week. Her Masters research explored issues influencing the transition in dress for Maori women in colonised Aotearoa in the 19th century. After completing her degree study in the late 80’s Ward was left feeling somewhat bewildered with pattern drafting teaching and learning processes. “It made no sense to me to be learning pattern making techniques at a quarter scale size. Making a flat pattern work in a 3D form was the aim but text books left me feeling anxious about my work not being the perfect size 12 textbook model,” said Ward. She then met Auckland based pattern-cutter John Kite who worked for Liz Mitchell. “John’s methods of drape, calico block development, and intuitive pattern skills were exquisite and logical.” Later, she attended a workshop at Massey University with Julian Roberts from the UK, whose subtraction cutting methods made the most of negative spaces, resulting in experimental garments that break the boundaries in usual garment shapes. “Julian believed mistakes could become the most exciting feature of a garment,” said Ward. Since then Junette has attended workshops of Milan based designer Shingo Sato, and brought him to Whanganui UCOL to run transformational pattern drafting workshops with students. Her own approach to teaching is now to introduce a range of alternative cutting techniques after the basics. “I want students to explore new techniques and methods of ‘making’ during the trialling process. I want them to take risks.”
NZ Academy of Fashion Design, now in a new premise in Newmarket, Auckland, provides a Diploma in Apparel Production from PAAV/Q-SET, a specialist UK awarding organisation offering vocational qualifications. This Diploma is the equivalent of NZQA Level 4 in Garment Construction and Patternmaking although the NZ Academy of Fashion Design extends the boundaries of NZQA units. The Academy delivers this diploma on a part time basis two and a half days per week, on evenings or by distance. The academy has a teacher student ratio of eight students per class and they have a range of students who take the diploma for a variety of reasons from wanting to start their own business, further fashion design study or sharpen up existing industry skills. One such student, Lisa Stallard was a junior buyer when she joined an evening diploma class in 2013, when it was a two year course. “Taking an evening course worked well. I didn’t have the time to go back to university as I was already in full time work and with this diploma I could combine both work and study. Making a two year commitment was a bit of a step but it seemed to work well. One of the benefits of the course is being able to explain to garment technicians in fit meetings what I want. Previously this had to be done visually, now I have the skills to be able to communicate with them. I would recommend this course as a quick introduction into a fashion career, but this is just the beginning - the industry is so rewarding and there is so much more to learn,” said Stallard.
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14 I April 2015
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FOCUS ON SUSTAINABILITY WHITECLIFFE
“Sustainability covers many areas of the fashion design industry, from processes in manufacturing to business practices. But to create a real shift towards sustainable fashion, the principals must be introduced to the new generation of designers who will lead the way of the future,” said Whitecliffe Head of Department Fashion Design, Belinda Watt. Whitecliffe Fashion Department has a growing focus on sustainable practices, especially within the last five years. The department is involved in numerous initiatives and projects both within New Zealand and internationally, which aids in teaching students about sustainable practices within the fashion design industry. The Whitecliffe Fashion Department was recently awarded The Prime Minister’s Scholarship for Asia (PMSA) for students’ ongoing participation in ethical and sustainable work and research with Project Matatika 2015. Recent graduates and year three and four students were selected to travel to India in January to present the project and images of their recent collections to fashion students at Pearl Academy in Delhi. While in India, the students partook in numerous educational opportunities and cultural exchanges, including learning about ethical and sustainable fashion practices and traditional artisan craft skills. In one instance, they had a session with a designer from Tommy Hilfiger working on a sustainable fashion project. In another meeting, the students were shown a fermented indigo dye process and met a representative from the Fairwear Foundation, an organisation based on the eight United Nations Standards for Ethical and Fair Production and Employment. In Delhi they met with fashion students from Pearl Academy and invited them to join Project Matatika 2015. Together, they engaged in very interesting group discussions looking at the role of the designer, sustainability challenges and collaboration. On the last leg of their trip, students travelled to Pollachi where they spent the next four days visiting Appachi Cotton, organic cotton farmers and producers. Another project the Whitecliffe Fashion Design department is involved with is The Restyle Project, which is run in collaboration with French 83. Aged, traditional suits are reworked and remade into a new design by students. Watt comments that she “loves the idea of our students dissembling something so traditional to recreate something more challenging and less predictable and to see them extend the life cycle of the suits in such a variety of forms.” In addition to this, Whitecliffe students also recycle studio garment offcuts that are then shredded for carpet underlays, felted, quilted, spun and then knitted into garments. “It has been a wonderful opportunity to address the paradigm of sustainable fashion for students at Whitecliffe,” said Watt.
Sean Kelly Massey fashion graduate 2013 Winner, Project Runway S/13, 2014 Photo Frazer Harrison, Getty Images
apparelmagazine.co.nz
I 15
colour trending
RESENE CIOCCOLATO: ACNE STUDIOS
Sweet Like Chocolate
RESENE JAMBAYALA: AGANOVICH
In a delicious display of decadent style, runways this season were slathered in smooth chocolate coloured designs sure to tantalise the most dormant sweet tooth. HUSBAND and husband team Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra translated their own personal style into the latest Costello Tagliapietra collection this season. Plaid printed silk dresses and earthy tones, coupled with the brand’s signature drapery skills, played into a grounded and almost understated selection of pieces. The short sleeve cashmere overcoat in a colour similar to Resene Drumbeat was expertly layered over a printed silk top to give just the right amount of lumberjack connotation without removing the femininity of the overall look. Trussardi paid close attention to the essentials this season, chasing a utilitarian approach to design, with militaristic silhouettes and the crisp shine of fresh leather. The show encompassed a varied palette of brown and neutral tones with the mid calf length coat exuding an element of sexy elegance as it combines traditional cuts with more seductive fabric choices. In a colour similar to Resene Sambuca the coat looks warm and inviting, perfect for the upcoming cooler months.
RESENE BULLWHIP: LACOSTE
16 I April 2015
RESENE PEANUT: SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
RESENE DRUMBEAT: COSTELLO TAGLIAPIETRA
With an overarching sense of experimentation and playfulness, the latest collection from Salvatore Ferragamo stuck to its design philosophy and produced a minimalist range featuring strong, graphic lines. The rib-knit poncho, similar in colour to Resene Peanut, was described as a Slinky due to the way it bounced while walking down the runway. Creative director, Massimiliano Giornetti has steered the Ferragamo brand away from its earlier glitzy aesthetic to a more modern and controlled offering without stepping over the line of too conservative. Inspired by Stevie Nicks’ Polaroid selfportraits from the mid 70s, Reem Acra showcased a selection of gorgeous gowns ready for the red carpet. “Nicks is a woman that I relate to. When I started putting things together, it came easy. I didn’t have to think about it much,” said Acra. The whole collection was a testament to the fun and vibrant nature of Nicks, featuring delicate jewels, ruffled skirts and intricate lace. These three elements can be seen in the almost ornate looking dress coupled with a rocking dark chocolate leather jacket similar in colour to Resene Dark Ginger. Acra described her work as magical, simply thanking Nicks’ bewitching effect.
RESENE DARK GINGER: REEM ACRA
Colours available from RESENE COLORSHOPS www.resene.co.nz
0800 737 363
RESENE SOHO: TOMMY HILFIGER
RESENE SAMBUCA: TRUSSARDI
apparelmagazine.co.nz
I 17
photoshoot
GINGER SNAPS
Make Up: Grayson Coutts Hair: Ruby Downes Photographer: Caitlan Mitchell Model: Elise at 62 Models
18 I April 2015
SILENCE WAS... Won’t Forget Denim Jacket TWENTY-SEVEN NAMES Monarch Silk Shirt SILENCE WAS... Unreal Dream Skirt SKIN Aspen Boots in Black BLUE BLANK Thin Halter Harness
TRISH PENG Pala Top in Black WORLD Shorts
BLUE BLANK Thick Halter Crop Harness JULIAN DANGER Simone Skirt MISS WILSON Jess Loafer in Black
TWENTY-SEVEN NAMES Check Tee BLAK LUXE The London Pant BLUE BLANK Harness Bag
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I 19
View these brands and more on ApparelBuyersLounge.com
PRISCILLA HUNTER JEWELLERY FAWN STUDIOS
Inspired by her design degree specialising in Visual Communication at Massey University, Charlotte Upton launched Fawn Studios. Currently, Fawn Studios sells graphic prints online but Upton is looking to expand her typography, illustration and design skills to other mediums such as textiles and home decor. “I would describe my work as light-hearted and humorous as my aim is to throw something a bit different out into the world and if people like it then that’s great!” said Upton. Collaboration with fashion brands and working with other businesses is another area Upton would like to expand into. The importance of social media has been recognised by Upton who has Facebook, Twitter and Instagram accounts. Instagram is most used as it is a really great way of showcasing work and interacting with international customers. For more information, please email charlotte@fawnstudios.co.nz.
An artist first and foremost, Priscilla Hunter of Priscilla Hunter Jewellery paints and makes fabric sculptures. She added jewellery to her profile after a long overseas trip inspired her to learn new skills. She never looked back after a jewellery making class and her art and jewellery influence one another. “This keeps things interesting for me, while still making me feel like I’m staying true to my main vision,” said Hunter. Some pieces are delicate and feminine, others are heavy and chunky and Hunter’s new range will be different again, including a lot of gemstones and draped chains. Priscilla Hunter Jewellery is ever changing, but always has a luxe edge. Most interest comes from young women, and social media helps a lot with this but Hunter’s jewellery appeals to all. Over the next couple of years Hunter hopes to increase supply to sell jewellery in stores as well as online. Priscilla Hunter Jewellery is venturing into cufflinks and will soon offer an exclusive range of one off pieces that are 100% handmade and unique. Hunter is planning some ambitious pieces jam packed with gorgeous stones. To find out more, email priscillahunterjewellery@gmail.com.
BAD THINGS FIET
Originally excited about the idea of globalisation, Tull Price found himself in a situation where he had to sell his company to a US publicly traded athletic company to keep it alive. Life was taken up more by management than product creation. FIET was a reaction, a desire to return to product, and create something special, unique and uncompromised. FEIT, pronounced “fight”, was founded by Price and his brother Josh in response to the global footwear market that has become saturated not only by poorly constructed, homogenized, synthetic shoes but shoes that created a staggering amount of harmful industrial waste. Not limited to footwear, FIET also hand makes accessories including leather wallets, watch straps, lanyards and ipod cases and cashmere scarfs and hats. FIET’s footwear and accessories are hand made by the world’s finest contemporary craftsmen using biological materials from the highest quality suppliers. No harmful chemicals are used. All footwear is hand lasted and all products hand sewn and produced in limited volumes to ensure minimal environmental impact and maximum quality. The Price’s appreciate a modern movement where excess is replaced by restraint and flamboyance is replaced by minimalism. FEIT’s design and head office is in New York with a flagship store in Nolita, NY, but they have a smaller base in the Price’s hometown of Sydney and FEIT’s first store in Surry Hills. For more information, please email info@feitdirect.com.
20 I April 2015
Streetwear label Bad Things is named after one of Mala Brajkovic’s favourite songs by L7. Brajkovic and Bad Things’ two other founders, Vinnie Woolston and Maki Nishiyama, we racking their brains for a brand name when the electrorock band’s song began to play and it fitted perfectly. A recent exhibition with legendary skater Peggy Oki and a new Bad Things print called Bad Tail encapsulates the brand’s penchant for skate culture with a fun and creative graphic gore edge. The three founders also have a custom digital print business called Magik Viper, which they use to print their Bad Things product as well as custom print jobs, from a single tee to bigger jobs for commercial companies. The trio works with a lot of Raglan businesses where they are based as well as companies around New Zealand. Digital printing is quick and has no set up costs so it works really well for those working with small unit numbers. Just an email with artwork is needed and Magik Viper can courier the product out the following, or even the same, day. Please contact magikviperprint@gmail.com for print queries or info@badthingsapparel.com for Bad Things.
I’LL TAKE ALL THREE
behind the business
I’ll Take All Three’s tag line is “In the right outfit she can conquer the world.”The online boutique has a vibrant range of youthful customers that dress to impress and stand out from the crowd. Founder, Iyia Liu, is a recent graduate who planned to launch her brand after completing her Business degree in February 2015. Liu loves fashion and her businesses degree has given her the knowledge she needs to grow a fashion brand. Customer experience is the number one priority at I’ll Take All Three. The e-boutique offers express courier delivery so purchases are generally delivered overnight and to customers’ doorsteps, not just the mailbox. The website is created to be attractive and easy to use. The team responds to every question, every email, and every comment. “I think it is really important to listen to your customers and do everything that you possibly can to make them happy, even if it costs us a bit more,” said Liu. I’ll Take All Three predominantly source its clothing from Australia as well as the US, China and some local New Zealand brands such as Veronica B, Goodbye Label and La Lune. Products are priced reasonably to accommodate for those with lower disposable incomes but without sacrificing quality. Its biggest brands are Alice McCall, Winona, Nookie, Skye & Staghorn and I’ll Take All Three are always looking for new brands to stock. For more information, please email i.liu@illtakeallthree.com.
ASSEMBLY LABEL
Assembly Label connects with its audience through a lifestyle that appreciates design and coastal living. As a result, Assembly Label is clean, refined and relaxed. Before Assembly Label directors Damien Horan and Daniel Oliver worked together for commercial companies and shared a vision of working on a label that combined a love of design and the coastal lifestyle they are immersed in. Assembly Label does just that, with Horan, Oliver and recently joined director Lee Thompson being forever conscious of keeping their label simple and wearable. Thompson brought a wealth of experience, skill and humour to the already expanding brand that reflects the easy-going nature that comes with living by the sea. The Assembly Label team engages with their audience through their social media and online platform with regular updates, previews and promotions. They also showcase up and coming creatives through these channels to try to involve their community as much as possible. Beginning in wholesale, Assembly Label also has an online retail component and is opening their first bricks and mortar concept store in Bondi. For more information, contact Emma Thomas at pr@ assemblylabel.com.
MARLE
Juliet Bates of Marle has a passion for knitwear, head for business and mind for creativity. She majored in Knitwear at AUT before undertaking work experience at Showroom 22, being brand coordinator at MAC cosmetics and then a buyer for Glassons. After the birth of her daughter, Vita, Bates decided it was time to realise the dream she always had, starting her own brand. Bate’s brand is forever inspired and she has muses as varied as Picasso, Frank Lloyd Wright, Madeleine Vionnet and Christobel Balenciaga. This may explain why her knits are modern classics. The beautiful fibres in Marle knitwear are sourced and produced in a small family run boutique factory in China. Marle’s first range is in store now and a small second range for winter, including accessories, is on its way with the introduction of 100% cashmere. Bates plans to release two ranges for winter and one for summer. Marle is currently wholesaling throughout New Zealand and plans to expand into overseas markets soon. To find out more, please email juliet@marle.co.nz.
SHARK WEEK
Wellingtonian Tom Wright founded Shark Week because he was seeking something different. With designer Logan Smith, business partner Nick Mason and the rest of their friends along for the ride, the Shark Week team is in the industry to have a good time and offer a break to normality. “I wanted to create my favourite brand,” admits Wright. “When it comes to engaging with our market we don’t try to appeal to anyone but ourselves. We do this purely for fun. You either like it or you don’t.” Shark Week’s products include caps, bucket hats, pins, tees, socks and boxers - most with a shark head icon repeated across yellow, blue, black or pink block colour. Shark Week is currently a part time vocation, however Wright believes anything is possible for the brand. For more information, email hammerhead@sharkweek.co.nz.
apparelmagazine.co.nz
I 21
in detail
The Weave That Binds Together NZ Creative Industries
PRINTS are often the backbone to a collection, pulling each piece together creating a unified and cohesive offering. Titled Le Coups De Foudre (the bolt of lightning), Ingrid Starnes took the feeling of falling in love at first sight and transformed it into a sophisticated range of garments for Autumn/Winter 15. Originally inspired by the inquisitive spirit and salon of Gertrude Stein, Starnes knew from the beginning her custom designed print would be handled by Auckland Fabric Printers. “The print is very important to us. It is something entierly of our own and often these printed pieces become the hero of the collection,” said Starnes. With a relationship dating back to 2010, Starnes has worked relentlessly with Auckland Fabric Printers to execute her creative vision for each collection. Having been in the industry for over 30 years, the team at Auckland Fabric Printers is currently the only provider of roll-to-roll screen-printing in Australia and New Zealand. “Time and time again we have had the opportunity to serve designers who trust the quality of our products and have supported us as our business grows, the same way we work with and help grow the business of our customers,” said Auckland Fabric Printers director, Paul Onion. Working closely with each other, Auckland Fabric Printers and Ingrid Starnes turned a rough floral painting into a beautiful roll of fabric quickly, easily and most important, locally. “The whole process is definitely one of the highlights of my job. I absolutely love seeing a painting I started with turn into a beautiful printed piece of cloth and finally become a whole range of beautiful garments,” said Starnes.
How to speed up your recruitment process without sacrificing quality TOP performing retail staff are in high demand these days, and this means that retail organisations looking to hire the best need to be quick off the mark. A lengthy drawn-out recruitment process can lead to your best candidates accepting a job elsewhere, but how do you hire more quickly without cutting corners? Here are some suggestions that may help you speed up your recruitment process and get the edge over your competitors when it comes to attracting the best talent. Advertise job openings on your company website People can stumble across your site for any number of reasons, not necessarily because they are looking for work. If they are already interested in your business they might make a good employee. If they see a job opening, they may be tempted to apply, even if they aren’t actively seeking work. It never hurts to advertise positions within your organisation on your site as well as in other places. The more people you reach, the more likely you will find the superstar you are looking for. Create an accurate position description A misleading position description can bring you a flood of unsuitable candidates and weigh down the entire recruitment process. An accurate position description can help you speed things up by enabling you to reach the most equipped and qualified candidates quickly.
22 I April 2015
Don’t interview just for the sake of it If your organisation’s recruiting policy says you have to interview five candidates you may just go along with it, but this can be a waste of time if all five don’t have the skills you’re looking for. If you only have three candidates you like, save some time by only interviewing those three candidates instead of picking two more to make up numbers.
by only allowing candidates to apply directly through your website. This can be easier than going through job boards or other third party sites and ensures that your applications are all in one central place. As well as enabling candidates to apply directly to you, your site can also keep them up to date with timeframes and the general process so they know what to expect after they submit their application.
Only check references for candidates you’re planning to hire Reference checking can lead to delays. Instead of checking references for all of your top candidates, you can try obtaining their references at interview and then only checking them before you make an offer. Checking one reference is much less time consuming than checking five, four of which you will never use.
Provide an overview of your company on your website Your website gives you a chance to connect directly with potential candidates and really sell yourself to them. Candidates who see jobs posted on job boards often visit a company’s website to find out more before deciding whether or not to apply. Make sure your site makes the perks and benefits of working for you clear, so that you get the attention of possible candidates. Don’t let slow recruitment processes mean you miss out on the best candidates. If the perfect candidate comes your way, you want to snap them up before your competitors do. Streamlining and speeding up your recruitment process can help you do just that. By Mandy Jacobson, Agency Manager, Frontline Retail
Use technology to streamline your recruitment There are some handy tools available these days that can speed up the recruitment process and help you avoid lengthy delays. These include CV scanning tools that check for certain keywords, and new ways of finding candidates online, which can reduce the time of the standard application process. Social media can be a great way to find candidates and bypass the more traditional (and time consuming) advertising process. It also allows for easy communication through instant messaging. You can also streamline your application process
trendwatch
CELEBRATING THE STYLE With the David Bowie is film exhibition about to hit New Zealand shores; we take a look back at the iconic styles that continue to influence contemporary fashion design.
THE reach of Bowie’s voice in the industry is undeniable, being linked back to big time names and referenced by some of the world’s biggest designers. In 2007 he served as the muse for Keanan Duffty’s diffusion line at Target, he was a resource for Lady GaGa’s tour costumes during her time in Japan, and also starred in a Louis Vuitton fashion film alongside Arizona Muse. In 2010, Givenchy showcased a jacket in direct reference to a blazer Bowie wore in 1973. Emelio
E I W O B f o
Pucci Resort 2012 emulated the vibrant colored suits famously worn by Bowie. And recently in 2014, Robert Gellar channeled the 1976 film The Man Who Fell to Earth starring Bowie. Filmed on the closing night, Grant Calton, CEO of Omniverse said, “We are thrilled to be working with V&A and MCA to give anyone who is not able to get to Chicago the chance to experience this incredible exhibition.” Unprecedented access was given to curators
Victoria Broackers and Geoffrey Marsh to execute the first international retrospective of Bowie’s career. The exhibition spans more than 300 objects including handwritten lyrics, original costumes, photography, set designs, album artwork and rare performance material from the past five decades.
apparelmagazine.co.nz
I 23
wearable tech
ONES TO WATCH Wearable technology is as elusive as it is exciting with many promising products not yet successful stables in the market. However, the hot air surrounding these new fashion statements make way to some cold hard facts; the consumer world is interested and companies are keen to keep up. These four influential examples will change accessory expectations worldwide, provided that they remain fashionable and feasible.
touch. Relatively low cost, the device could cost up to US$400 based on what the company’s research suggests people would be willing to pay. The benefit of having a phone projected on your arm, other than wow factor, is convenience. The bracelet is waterproof and can be used easily on the go. But is it all too good to be true? Although designer, Guillaume Pommier claims the concept, four other business partners remain anonymous. The Cicret Bracelet is currently in phase one, and its developers are asking consumers for donations via PayPal to bring the product successfully to the mass market. A two minute video of the technology impressed many until it was discovered that the prototype was created in post video production, an idea of what the bracelet could be. The bracelet is said to come in 16GB and 32GB storage and ten different
colour options, but none are yet to be seen. Pommier has admitted, “We always knew that the Cicret Bracelet would be well received, so it’s kind of a dream, and we have to stay very calm.” The Cicret Bracelet’s challenge is no to become vapourware that never makes it to the market.
GOOGLE GLASS
CICRET BRACELET
Turning heads with the flick of a wrist is the French born Cicret Bracelet. This wearable bracelet that looks similar to a fitness tracker has a pico projector, also known has a handheld projector, that projects a smartphone screen on to various surfaces, in this instance the forearm when activated by a wrist movement. According to its website, the Cicret Bracelet is the first of its kind to successfully combine technologies to enable a response to any skin type and react to finger
The highly anticipate Google Glass is an ubiquitous computer that is a hands free smartphone viewable on the top right corner of voice activated spectacles. The Google Glass was released in 2013 for early adopters and then to the general public in 2014. From conception, Google saw the importance of sidelining their spectacles with fashion and in 2012 they worked
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with Diane von Furstenburg to create a behind the scenes look at New York Fashion Week in a four minute video filmed and edited with the glasses. Singer and contemporary tastemaker FKA Twigs directed her own ad for the product that played to creativity and Net-A-Porter announced that they would be the first non-Google stockist of the glasses. However this year Google Glass has been taken off the market and is back in the lab for adjustments after Google admitted that the project was over exposed before it was ready. On their blog Google admitted, “Well, we still have some work to do, but now we’re ready to put on our big kid shoes and learn how to run.” Technological feat may be the least of Google’s worry with the product being lampooned as uncool, which is something not easily re-engineered by scientists. The adapted product will be priced at US$1,500 for new developers and testers.
APPLE WATCH
Time is not distracting Apple in their bid to join the wearable technology market. Apple CEO Tim Cook said, “we weren’t first on the MP3 player; we weren’t first on the tablet; we weren’t first on the smartphone. But we were arguably the first modern smartphone, and we will be the first modern smartwatch—the first one that matters.” The Apple iPhone compatible smartwatch is dubbed by the brand as its most personal technology yet because it’s made to be worn. The watch keeps the
TAG HEUER SMARTWATCH
wearer in contact with their closest friends at any time and with a fitness tracker included, a heartbeat can even be sent to contacts. Instead of focussing on hardcore technology, such as the rumoured iWatch with a projector similar to the Cicret Bracelet, Apple has designed its new watch to be fashionable. Sleek, simple and substantial the watch looks timeless even with a smartphone screen. Although only 8GB, the watch still has its technological kicks with the added dimension of a gentle touch when emails or text messages come in. The watch needs an Apple iPhone to work fully, but analysts believe the likely pool of initial buyers will already own one of the company’s smartphones. The Apple Watch will start at US$349 and stop at a top tier 18 karat gold edition for US$17,000.
The plan is to release a smartwatch in time for the Christmas rush using Google’s Andriod operating system to compete with the Apple Watch. Careful not to help the competition, Tag Heuer is giving very few details away, including the expected price. As the largest of several brands owned by French luxury group LVMH, Tag Heuer is tapping into the luxury market where technology and fashion is expected to go hand in hand. Michael Bell, vicepresident of Intel’s new devices unit, who Tag Heuer is working with, said, “we believe wearable technology will take off as it represents who you are and how you want to be seen.” Intel has already started partnerships with several consumer goods companies in 2014 to develop smart wearable products including eyewear brand Oakley, who are also said to be working with Google Glass. By Jessica-Belle Greer
Apparel 21 is fashionware. ERP solutions for the fashion industry that improve your business performance.
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Management
Phone: +61 3 8415 9300 Email: info@Apparel21.com www.Apparel21.com apparelmagazine.co.nz
I 25
techwatch
NITRO EFTPOS
Kiwi Eftpos & POS Group Ltd.
Nitro Eftpos terminals offer two redundancy features not offered by many Eftpos to POS interfaces, Broadband with both GPRS and dial back-up communications and the added feature of standalone operability mode in case of a POS Failure. The Nitro Eftpos terminal can operate as a standalone terminal with a built in SIM card so you can still collect money when all else fails.
QTOUCH 10
Advance Equipment Supplies
A number of POS peripherals are incorporated into Qurion’s QTouch 10 seamless design. Advance Equipment Solutions supply Qurion’s QTouch 10 because it is ideal for smart business. It is a complete POS solution right out of the box with touch screen, printer, network connection and user lock. It provides everything needed without additional costs.
SIZE/COLOUR MATRIX Today Software
With over 25 years experience in developing POSperfect, Today Software has developed a size/colour matrix designed for the fashion and footwear industry. The matrix allows the user to have accurate sales figures on each size and colour of an item, with customisable reporting options that can even tell which sizes and colours were most popular in specific seasons.
BEE DEE BAGS N E W
Bee Dee Bags are the experts in retail packaging, supplying high quality custom made products including paper bags, plastic bags, reusable fabric bags, boxes, postal satchels and tissue paper. Bee Dee Bags clientele range from the single store to some of the countries largest chain stores. Become a part of the Bee Dee Bags network and experience our high level service, quality product and economical prices.
26 I April 2015
Z E A L A N D
An extensive range of affordable ready made products are also available to order now via our website www.beedeebags.co.nz PO Box 302-493 North Harbour, Auckland 0751 Phone: 0800 232 710 | Fax: 0800 232 310 N E W Z E A L A N D www.beedeebags.co.nz
BEE DEE BAGS
POS
How can POS increase your profit?
From the Advance Equipment Supplies Team
IN the first article we explained what point of sale (POS) was and how it worked. In a nutshell it’s the database that records information about your store, your stock, prices, discounts, costs and profit, staff, your customers’ likes, needs and buying habits. How sophisticated that needs to be depends on the information you want to get out of it and how to best apply that information to your business. One of the biggest costs facing anyone in business is staff. Good staff increase profit, poor staff are a cost. The questions are; how can you tell which staff members are performing, or not performing? Do you have too many staff on during quiet times, not enough when it’s busy? Or, who is stealing? Not a pleasant thought, but let’s face it, some staff do and it may be as simple as giving unauthorised discounts to friends. If you wanted to get a sales report by shift or employee without a comprehensive reporting system, where would you start? You go through the till tape sale by sale working out who sold what and when. A good POS will do this for you. If your current system doesn’t record the time of the transaction, you won’t be able to look at the times of the day when you may need more, less staff or even if it is worth being open. If the POS doesn’t record who made the sale, then you can’t see which of your staff upsell, sell additional items or give discounts. A good POS will do this for you too. Would you like to be able to identify ‘quiet’ times of day, or days of the week, and incentivise customers to shop during those times? More sales with the same staff numbers equals more profit. Would you like the ability to track staff performance, time and attendance? Would you like to identify potential issues with wastage and shrinkage? With a POS solution it’s easy, and it pays for itself. A ‘sales by employee’ report in a busy fashion store may show you that Mary on the morning shift has an average sale of $29, while John in the afternoons only sells an average of $19. The only difference between the two being that Mary asks one important question “Have you seen our new range of scarves? These have just arrived in and would look great with this top .”
The profit margin on that scarf is probably around $15, a profit that John is missing out on by not asking the question. So what do you do, try to train John? Put incentives in place to encourage add on selling? Or Put John in the storeroom and find another Mary for the afternoon shift? Additionally, a POS system will let you know who is giving discounts to friends at ‘mates rates’ or continuing to give sale discount pricing after the promotion end time. This is called ‘shrinkage’ and, in essence, is theft. An easy to use POS terminal increases throughput of sales, eliminates human error in keying pricing and puts an end to unauthorised discounting. Combined with a comprehensive POS back office reporting system, the terminal identifies performing staff, underperforming staff, stock that flies and stock that dies. Next issue we will talk about tools that will help manage stock, target promotions and improve the customer experience ensuring repeat business. These tools add up to increased turnover with less overheads and greater profits. You’ll have time to focus on what’s really important, your business, and who doesn’t want that and maybe weekends off?
“POS system will let you know who is giving discounts to friends at ‘mates rates’ or continuing to give sale discount pricing after the promotion end time. This is called ‘shrinkage’ and, in essence, is theft.”
INFORMATION = PROFIT How much do you want?
How much do you want to invest?
Advance Equipment Supplies - exclusive NZ distributors, through Eftpos Specialists Group, exclusive distributors of Quorion Cash Registers. From the small but very smart QMP18 to the POS based QTouch10 *Eftpos integration – customer display – barcode scanners. Visit the Quorion website to see more www.quorion.com
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editd
The 5 things making Zara and H&M successful ZARA and H&M are two of the world’s largest and most ambitious fast fashion retailers, whose strategies are continually scrutinized by the industry. And quite rightly so. After a 14% rise in sales for fiscal 2014, H&M closed out their first quarter (ending February 28) with better profits than expected and plan to open 400 new stores in 2015. Meanwhile, Inditex increased net sales 8% to $19.2 billion over the 12 months ending January 31, and plan to open between 420 and 480 stores this year. What are the retailers doing right? Last April, we assessed their tactics in Zara vs H&M – who’s in the global lead? One year on, our data highlights the key strategies helping them outperform their competitors.
Zara and H&M approach discounting in noticeably different ways. Zara have exceptionally low levels of discounting for 10 months of the year, promoting hard and fast in June and December only. Zara currently have 5.1% of their offering discounted, and only 0.4% of the offering is reduced by 50% or more. Crucially, they have no sale section on their website when they are not in sale season. H&M have 23.9% of their current offering discounted (in line with the 24.2% in April 2014), 10% of their offering is reduced by 50% or more, far outstripping Zara’s discounting. H&M customers are more likely to seek out promotions year-round, with much higher rate of new discounts each month.
1. Constant levels of new product
3. Focusing on core customers H&M focus on the female shopper, with 57% of their current offering being womenswear. That’s a ratio they’ve grown by 6% in the last year, peeling back from childrenswear, down 6%. Zara, who have a much more balanced offering appealing to the whole family, have also grown womenswear, but only by 2%. They’ve seen least growth in menswear, shrinking their menswear weighting by 3.5%.
A high level of newness year-round is what defines Zara as a retailer. They endlessly delight their customer with of-the-minute clothing. In the last 15 months they’ve dominated in the attempt to bring most newness to consumers month by month. Despite H&M having a larger assortment, at no point since January 2014 (December 2014 came quite close) have they beaten Zara’s new arrivals. In fact, since we last wrote about the retailers in April 2014, H&M have grown the gap in size of offering from just under 2,000 different styles, to over 2,500 more options currently online than at Zara.
2. Clear strategy around discounting
4. Consistency in price architecture
H&M and Zara price very differently. H&M’s current offering extends from $0.77 to $307.97. That top price (leather trousers, a suede jacket and suede wraparound dress) has climbed 5.5% since April 2014. That’s seen the median price point grown by 10.6%, to $23.67. Meanwhile, Zara’s current offering stretches from $6.48 to $368.04 – lifting the top range by a dramatic 14%. Those higher priced items include a fringed suede jacket and skinny leather trousers – trending, and expensive, fabrics currently. The increased pricing hasn’t filtered into the entire range though, the median price point has fallen by 8% to $44.23. H&M-Zara-womenswear-price-architecture Counting the number of product options further supports the theory that H&M are trying to build
28 I April 2015
out their higher price points. In April 2014, 56% of H&M’s offering was priced between $1 and $20. Currently, only 49.5% of their offering sits in this price range – a notable change for price sensitive retailer. Zara are much more consistent – they really have their pricing strategy set firmly. 32% of Zara’s offering sits within their most optioned price bracket, $20 to $40. The exact same proportion of Zara’s offering was priced this way in April 2014. In key categories like tops and jeans, Zara focus heavily on one price point – building their customers’ options out at a familiar price, rather than attempting to appeal to a multitude of shoppers like H&M.
5. Communicating your brand’s identity
The weapon up H&M’s sleeve? Replenishment. 29.9% of H&M’s current offering has been replenished, a figure they’ve grown by more than 6% since April 2014. They’ve also grown their replenishment on childrenswear and menswear, now outstripping womenswear, formerly their most replenished category. Zara meanwhile are not seeking to improve upon replenishment in their strategy. The 2.7% of total offering that had seen replenishment in April 2014 has now scaled back to 1.3%. H&M are able to act upon success and optimize it. Zara have to get it right first time – on average it takes a Zara product 26 days for the majority of SKUs to sell out, compared to H&M’s 112 days.
By Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITD
Recently H&M have adopted a much more editorial style of email newsletter than they have formerly used. Instead of featuring flat, clickable product images, with a price point and ‘shop now’ link, they’re using a magazine format of stylized imagery with mood-setting text. This is much more in line with Zara’s starker email layout. As H&M grow their pricing, they’re employing better storytelling to portray their brand. One of the best things you can do for your business is to have the pricing and product offering in line with your customer expectations. Our analysis shows that most successful brands in the industry are doing just that. Isn’t it time your business followed suit?
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