Apparel Magazine // May 2014

$ 9.00

May 2014 Vol 47 no 4

www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

pg 4 News

Signature Scenting pg 20

pg 8 TrendWatch

pg 24 collection Review

12 15 16 25

11

EDiTD

Behind the Business Student Profile

Colour Trending

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Retail Trending

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Your businesses are as varied as our students . . .

. . . let us help you make the best match through work experience and employment options.

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Fashionable

Editor’s letter This month will see the launch of New Zealand Wool Week. An initiative driven by fashion stylist and author Anna Caselberg, the Campaign for Wool is a global initiative that aims to highlight wool as a fibre that is eco-friendly, comfortable, fashionable and durable option to cheaper and more disposable alternatives.

As New Zealand is a country founded on sheep farming, supporting the Campaign for Wool is as natural as the fibre itself. The campaign runs from May 26-June 2. For more information on how you can get involved as part of the industry visit their website www. campaignforwool.co.nz .

Reads

In this issue, the Apparel team brings you all things new and noteworthy, from our new section Apparel Radar, where we have researched new brands emerging, to textile forecasts with Charles Parsons. Don’t forget to sign up to our weekly newsletter to be up-todate with news and industry articles in between our monthly print edition.

I hope you enjoy the issue.

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty

(Metropolitan Museum of Art)

What they said . . .

“I know that Anna hates being the center of attention, so this is all probably killing her, but we love it. But the truth is I am here today because of Anna. I am here because I have such respect and admiration for this woman who I am proud to call my friend. And I am here because I am so impressed by Anna’s contribution not just to the fashion industry but to the any causes she shares and cares about, particularly this great American museum.” First Lady Michelle Obama at The Metropolitan Museum of Art for the unveiling of Anna Wintour Costume Center.

“The challenge you see in traditional brickand-mortar — and you’re starting to see this online as well — is everyone has the same thing. These specialty stores that have created their own online sites have the flexibility to create a different vision and bring in different products because they can. There’s a small revolution that’s going on.” Fashion consultant Roopal Patel on the growing e-commerce presence of boutique retailers.

“Our e-commerce heart beats as loud as our fashion heart.” Munich’s Theresa boutique managing director Jens Riewenherm.

“I did not complete high school. I discovered later that I’m dyslexic. I went to work with my parents at the factory when I was 18, so it is exceptionally exciting for me to go straight to a doctorate. My family was my university. My parents were fearless and risk-taking. Now the company is evolving, while remaining true to our vision of craft.” Angela Missoni, receiving an honorary doctorate from the Academy of Art University in San Francisco.

“While no one wants to see employees out of work as a result of a factory closure, ensuring that immediate safety issues are addressed is our top priority.” Ellen Tauscher, the independent chair of Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety.

Publisher Editor Sales & Marketing Contributors

Advertising Sales Graphic DesignER Photographer

Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Chris Wilkinson, Anya Anderson, Katie Smith, Corinne Blumsky, Thomas Fowler Felicity-Anne Flack - felicity@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com

“Hopefully every company I’ve been with is in better shape when I leave than when I started. The American luxury brand is the future. It’s not about one person or a group of people but the way people view a brand. My legacy is more of a teacher than anything else. I learned a lot, too. It cuts both ways.” Roger Farah, stepping down from his position as vice chairman of Ralph Lauren Corp. after 14 years at the company.

Editorial Assistants Dearra Naidoo, Maddi Duthie, Nathalie Owen,

Nicole Wesseling

Circulation/Admin

Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com

ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794

NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated.

All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2014 NZ Apparel Magazine.

By Andrew Bolton, with Tim Blanks and Susannah Frankel This book focuses on the iconic designer Alexander McQueen, his technical brilliance and its rebellion against traditional tailoring and dressmaking practices.

100 Years of Fashion Illustration

By Cally Blackman A beautiful coffee table book comprised of 400 images that surveys the genre over the last century.

‘100 Years of Fashion Illustration’ gives an overview of how fashion has developed over the years.

The Beautiful Fall: Lagerfeld, Saint Laurent, and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris

By Alicia Drake Alicia Drake provides an insightful and dramatic narrative about the fashion wars of the 1970s in Paris between Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld, sparking an incredible decade for fashion.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

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NEWS ONE FOOT BACK

SHINGO WORKSHOP AT UCOL

Internationally renowned pattern maker, designer and educator Shingo Sato has held a one-day workshop with students and educators at UCOL’s School of Fashion in Whanganui as well as attending the Shapeshifting conference in Auckland. Sato’s sculptural approach combines the complexity of origami, couture draping and flat pattern design to achieve unexpected effects.

UCOL Fashion Lecturer and Sato enthusiast, Junette Ward has been influenced by Sato’s methods since discovering his work three years ago. Ward has attended two of Sato’s workshops in Melbourne and, along with fellow UCOL fashion lecturer Stephanie West, incorporates his methods in their teaching. “I am fascinated with his tactile drape process, and how he conveys this to students,” said Ward. Residing in Milan, where he co-ordinates his TR Cutting School, both in studio workshops and online formats, Sato is an engaging character and very generously shares his skills and techniques at fashion schools around the world.

After an hour-long public presentation to an enthralled audience, Sato relocated to the Fashion School’s design and construction studios to conduct a workshop with 16 eager Bachelor of Fashion students. Urging students to experiment with their creations, Sato believes that students mustn’t be “Intimidated by the act of your experiments, there’s nothing scary about putting pen or scissors to your inspirations”.

A set back has cost US footwear company Five Fingers, creators of the running shoe that claimed to have health benefits. Over 70 million pairs were sold of the strange looking “barefoot” running shoes that are said to mimic the experience of barefoot running, and according to the company “improve foot health”. The law suit was filed back in 2012 when the complainant believed that Vibram deployed deceptive marketing and falsely advertised the benefits from wearing its shoe including; strengthening the muscles in the feet and lower legs, improved range of motion in the ankles, feet and toes and stimulating neural function important to balance and agility. However, experts have found that the shoe may actually have negative impacts on foot health. “Barefoot running has been touted as improving strength and balance, while promoting a more natural running style,” claims the American Podiatric Medicine Association. “However, risks of barefoot running include a lack of protection, which may lead to injuries such as puncture wounds, and increased stress on the lower extremities.” Partial refund of the shoes is available to consumers (up to US$50 of the RRP of US$100). Vibram is also banned from making future claims about the health benefits of its shoes. “Vibram will not make any claims that Five Fingers footwear are effective in strengthening muscles or preventing injury unless that representation is true, non-misleading and is supported by competent and reliable scientific evidence” according to the Federal Court.

THE ROW FLAGSHIP STORE The Row’s Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have opened their first flagship store on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles this month. The move comes after nearly a decade in the industry, with what started out as the perfect tee shirt has turned into a multi-million dollar empire; which earned the girls the prestigious CDFA Womenswear Designer of the Year award in 2012.

“We’ve always wanted our own store; it’s always been part of the plan” Mary-Kate says.

“It was a toss-up between New York and L.A., and when this space became available, we jumped on it. It used to be a hair salon and my

sister and I used to come here, so we were very aware of the space”.

The store has a distinct minimalist LA feel and is structured around a pool in the centre of the store. “Ultimately, for us, it was about setting it up like a home and just having the apparel be a part of the space,” Ashley says.

“It was important to us to open up our doors quietly. We’re not going to have a party or anything; we want to make sure it’s set up properly, merchandised properly, that things are working. Maybe in a month or so we’ll do a dinner. For now, we just want to be open and get feedback from people close to us”.

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news

CAMBRIDGE CHANGES DIRECTION

Iconic menswear manufacturers Cambridge Clothing Company have closed its manufacturing division of the business following a decision to focus on other parts of the business. The made to measure part of the business just is not viable on its own and its closure, “doesn’t affect the rest of the business” according to managing director Joe Macky. He believes that in today’s market companies need to focus “where you find success” and for Cambridge Clothing Company this is in its ready to wear category, selling direct to consumers through the 30 New Zealand owned sites. Established in 1867, the Cambridge Clothing Company is still proud to be New Zealand owned and operated with its head offices in New Lynn.

LIAM CELEBRATIONS LAUNCHES

Liam designer Emily Miller-Sharma has launched a unique line of beautifully innovative custom-made dresses and separates called Liam Celebrations. The new collection is the perfect fit for every special occasion and was brought to life through Emily’s own family, friends and customers special celebrations. “We really enjoy working with women in exciting times of their lives, whether it’s a wedding, a ball, a 21st, a graduation, helping them get the perfect dress, from the colour and cut to the fabric and the fit, it’s such a great feeling,” she says. “We wanted to share it with as many Liam customers as possible and make it an enjoyable, easy and exciting experience”. The collection features a range of different designs to suit all styles whilst maintaining Liam’s modern aesthetic. The sophisticated collection comes in an array of different shades from “a classic navy blue, a cool ice blue, a sophisticated, delicate peach and a fresh white”. Liam Celebrations start from $500, with each unique piece taking approximately eight weeks to create. Customers will be able to view the Liam Celebrations designs, fabric swatches and colour palettes at all Ruby stores, to select their perfect outfit for their special occasion.

Passion for

Fashion?

Kick start your career with

PM VISITS KILT DESIGN

This month saw Prime Minister John Key visit the Kilt Design Room and Head Office in Napier. The team talked about their NZ Made March campaign to raise awareness about the amazing NZ Made products available to us and to encourage people to check out the labels.

iP is about ideas protected If you’re in the design industry then you’re in the

Industrial Sewing Pattern Making Fashion Design

business of creating intellectual property. Helping you turn that IP into a valuable asset is where we come in.

If you want to find out how to be rewarded for your creativity and innovation – talk to us about protecting and commercialising your IP. We’ve been helping designers do this since 1891! Contact us today to find out more.

0800 257 275 I www.ajpark.com I New Zealand + Australia

Call 0508 327 872 Miss World (NZ) wearing the National Costume designed by sewtec student Amy Lautogo

www.dastraining.co.nz

AJ Park is about iP • intellectual property • igniting passion • ideas pervading

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News

LEVI’S X JIM PHILLIPS MORE THAN JUST PRINTING

Founded in 1995 after owner Peter Dawson saw a significant growth within the digital printing technology sector, The Colourbox is really a one-stop shop for all businesses.

Dawson saw a gap in the market for a specialist and innovative large format printing business that could consistently bring emerging and niche technologies to the retail and fashion sectors. Known as the ‘go-to’ guys for printing, the company is capable of anything from parachutes to high fashion services.

“Developing great relationships with clients and creating business solutions through innovation” is what Dawson believes to be behind the success of his company.

“As large format technology grew in popularity and inkjet business started popping up everywhere we went looking for our next point of difference to keep us ahead of the

pack. Emerging trends from Europe convinced us that there was a big future in the custom printing of fabric.” Colourbox works with Charles Parsons to create unique fabric for designers and is one of the few companies left that designers can rely on for dye-sublimation printing services. “Our fashion clients and exhibition clients have found a real need for a large format printing company that can successfully utilise the benefits of transferring graphic images into textiles”. The benefits of short run dye-sublimation printing in to fabric are immediately apparent upon viewing with robustness, vivid colours and the beautiful tactile nature of a wide range of textiles being available. “Our experience in printing in to fabric together with our willingness and desire to work with you on your business has set us up as the perfect partner for the fashion industry.”

One of the most recognisable artists in the skate and surf world has collaborated with iconic denim brand Levi’s.

Jim Phillips illustrations for Santa Cruz skateboards are being resurrected in the new collaboration that features a tee and trucker vest with a screaming hand patch.

Need Printing?

Sublimation printing for fashion and sportswear Shortrun strikeoffs Sample garments Shortrun production 1-500m

Pop in and have a chat, look at sample printing and see what we can do for your business.

FREE A3 sample of your artwork if you refer to this ad.

8a Piermark Drive, Albany, Auckland Ph: 09 4155625 www.colourbox.co.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

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Trendwatch Palazzo Party

Long live the disco nation; Palazzo pants make a triumphant return more elegant and sophisticated than ever. Don’t be fooled, they’re not only for 20ft skyscraper models, try a high waist and subtle flare for the shorter figure to give the illusion of legs for days. First to catch wind of the palazzo uprising was Crosby Derek Lam last year in his Pre-Fall 2013 collection, showcasing a casual grey palazzo pant perfect for the streets of Paris or the upmarket casual chic forward thinking fashionistas. Carolina Hererra used A-line and palazzo as a staple silhouette in her latest resort collection highlighting that a slim top paired with the palazzo is an excellent technique to enhance shape in a clean and effortless way. A trend for all styles, Zimmermann proves in their Fall collection that even the hard rocker can punk it up with a palazzo bottomed jumpsuit, suitably studded with just the right amount of sex appeal.

Crosby Derek Lam

Zimmermann Carolina Herrera

Experts in shopfitting and commercial interiors

Shears & Mac offers a full turnkey service from concept to completion. Project management, co-ordination with designers, one point of contact for the creation of memorable interiors. www.shearsandmac.co.nz

Ph: 09 582 0671

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Behind the business

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Are you a Designer or supplier wanting stockisits?

We are communicating with buyers and retailers to put your brand in front of the right people 24/7.

The Apparel Buyers Lounge is an interactive, comprehensive and exclusive website created for the fashion industry which showcases designers and brands forward season collections exclusively to registered buyers and retailers all in one place at one time. If you are a buyer/retailer and would like be part of this exclusive new website please contact,

sarah@reviewmags.com, phone 09 304 0142 ext 702 or visit www.apparelmagazine.co.nz.

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Behind the business

Retailers’ assortments too big?

How much newness is right?

E-commerce has made it easier than ever to get new products in front of consumers. Updating an online store weekly, or even daily, is far easier than re-merchandising a physical retail space and the demand and ever-changing tastes that social media creates means consumers are hungry for frequent newness. Retailers grow their assortment in attempt to satisfy the demand, touting their broad assortments whilst clamouring for attention in a crowded market space. But have retailers’ assortments got too big? Here we investigate how numbers of products have changed in the last two years, and how it affects retailers’ profits.

For the purpose of this article, we’ve compared five high street retailers: H&M, Zara, Topshop, New Look and River Island. Zara, despite being the world’s largest apparel retailer, has the smallest number of options* currently online. On the other hand, H&M has the second fewest options of the five, and is the world’s second largest retailer. Not a coincidence, our statistics say a lot.

Next we’ve compared the number of new products arriving each month from Zara, H&M, Topshop, New Look and River Island. Although Zara has the lowest number of options online, they have increased the rate of new drops by 72% in Jan-Mar ’14, compared with Jan-Mar ’12. Zara also has one of the lowest rates of big reductions: only 0.5% of its current offering is reduced by 50% or more. H&M has also increased the number of new arrivals in the given period by 45%.

Only New Look dropped their rate of newness, down 12% from two years ago. The retailer announced slowed sales growth in the three months to 28 December 2013, which can account for their decreased spend in the first quarter of 2014. Topshop has grown new arrivals by 8.3% and River Island by 8% in the Jan-Mar ’14 period compared to the same period two years ago.

A simple measure of increase or decrease in new arrivals can be further analysed and understood when price architecture is compared. We’ve noticed similarities in price strategy at retailers who have increased their assortment, as well as those who have dropped it. Over the last two years, Zara, New Look and River Island have all taken emphasis away from the lowest price points of $1-$25, and scaled up on the next two price brackets – $25-50 and $50-75. Building into the mid range here could be a sign of increased consumer confidence when shopping online – moving away from accessories and cheaper items and displaying shopping behaviours more inline with the in-store experience.

Balancing between arrivals and discounting However, increased new product arrivals are not necessarily a sign of strength.

Many retailers who raised the number of new products arriving into store have also raised the total number of products they discount. H&M’s 45% increase in new drops is met with a 154% increase in products being discounted in the three-month period. Topshop, who grew their new products by 8.3%, see discounting up by 59.7%. And New Look, with their 12.2% reduction in new product, still sees their discounting grow by 43%.

Yet discounting should not always be looked upon negatively – well planned promotions and measured reductions will help move product at a healthy rate. Topshop’s 59.7% increase in discounting and 8.3% increase in new products arriving into stores over the three-month period has resulted in a 142% increase in number of products selling out. H&M’s 45% increase in new products and 154% increase in discounting has only resulted in a 20%

lift in sell outs – evidence that the increase in assortment has not been a huge success for them.

Zara and River Island are two retailers who stand out as having good strategy around size and timing of their offering. Zara has raised the number of new products by 72% whilst dropping the number of products on discount by 72% too. The knock on effect of this is a 52% decrease in sell-outs. River Island’s strategy also stands out: from Q1 2012 to Q1 2014 they increased their offering by 8% but brought discounting down by 23% and increasing the number of sell outs by 644%! Their model is definitely worth other retailers investigating.

Number of options cannot be used as the sole gauge of whether a retailer has a good assortment. Careful analysis of new drops, rates of discounting and sell out rates say a lot more about the success of a retailer’s product offering than a raw count of its scale. *Options represent the number of variations (e.g. colours/patterns) at each price point.

By Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITD EDITD connect fashion, luxury and apparel people with the data they need to make better decisions. www.editd.com/blog apparelmagazine.co.nz

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Behind the business

Local relations matter

Retailing can be a lonely place without the support of neighbouring businesses. Too often nowadays store owners arrive and leave work without venturing out into the communities they serve.

This is a symptom of increasingly busy lifestyles but for many it also reflects the need to constrain costs and a fear of missing those big sales without the owner there in the store.

Rewind back to earlier times and town centres throughout New Zealand enjoyed much stronger commercial communities. Retailers met socially, traded together and had greater collegiality than we see today.

Think about the businesses around you now. How many of the owners, managers and staff do you know? Equally important – how many shop with you? Imagine if they all did and how that would improve performance.

Today it’s likely that you’ll know fewer fellow retailers than ever before.

This has meant a breakdown in the traditional support mechanisms traders used to benefit from. It’s also meant that less money is being spent between local businesses as they support each other economically.

Wellington City Council is one local body that has recognised these issues and wants to rebuild community within its central business district.

While large store groups dominate the city’s ‘golden mile’ independent and artisan retailers also jostle for position – contributing to a vibrant shopping environment. Council’s vision is to bring all these businesses together collaboratively to share ideas and make the CBD a better place to trade.

Celebrating this diversity, reigniting community and building resilience has been the aim behind Council-led www.ourcbd.co.nz. This web and social media platform is designed to re-engage the retail and hospitaility sector through establishing conversations, developing meet-ups and generally understanding sentiment of the business community.

The initiative has started strongly with advocacy from leading local fashion retailers; David Byrne from Hurricane Jeans and Don Wearing from Mischief Shoes. These two are passionate about the city’s success and see the new platform as way to help retailers re-engage with each other.

For retailers in the capital, participation is important. Get involved by introducing your store and let others know the people behind the brand.

Better still; get along to the meet-ups and other events under way.

For businesses outside of Wellington, talk to your own Council Chris Wilkinson about similar initiatives. The future Managing Director of success of town centre retailing relies Strategists, on community and collaboration.

First Retail group.

Utilising technology it’s now possible www.firstretailgroup.com to regain the support business people used to enjoy.

Is Online Retail the Enemy?

Bricks and Mortar Isn’t Dead

Historically, shopping has been a social experience. We could talk for hours about the ins-and-outs of “the psychology of shopping” and “retail therapy”, but the importance of traditional retail is clear when you take into account that customer experience is a more powerful customer loyalty driver than price-value perception and accounts for 46% of loyalty for retailers. You can’t price your way out of poor customer service.

The top reason bricks-and-mortar retailers feel threatened by their online counterparts is because they’re commonly able to provide products at a reduced cost. Customer’s can have experiences with retailers online, but, when you look at the model of customer interactions online, a majority of it happens after the sale, and often in the form of a complaint.

Okay, so what does it matter if the customer has already made the purchase online? If you are wanting to build loyalty, and trust me…you are, customer service is your strongest tool, and this is where online retailers are dropping the ball. A recent study found that 71% of social media complainants hadn’t received any response to their complaint. It makes you wonder where the element of customer service is in any of this interaction, doesn’t it? If you’re not getting it before purchase and you’re only getting it after purchase 29% of the time, something is missing.

Online Retail is Good

Cutting straight to the point, we honestly believe that online retail is a great facet of shopping. ‘Facet’ being the key word here. In the same way that our online training programmes are benefitting our clients, online shopping is benefitting retailers, and that’s something we can relate to.

In an anonymous client survey we conducted, when probed about the benefits they have found from using RedSeed, one respondent had the following to say; “The programme, especially in Australia, reaches out to all those outlying areas. We never touched any pharmacies out in the ‘never lands’ previously. It opens up a whole new group of people who we couldn’t touch before.” The same is true for online shopping. Retailers are now able to increase their reach vastly and cash in on those shoppers who were previously deemed ‘unreachable’.

One of the most relevant areas that online retailers capitalise on is price to the consumer. Not only are they able to reach a larger audience, but

more often than not they are also able to provide items at a lower cost to the consumer because of the lower overheads associated with online shopping.

Because of the nature of the web, online retailers are able to evolve and adapt quickly in response to the needs of their consumers. One great example of this is UK based fits.me, who are breaking down the barriers some shoppers have when it comes to making online clothing purchases with their virtual fitting room application.

It’s About Having a Harmonious Marriage

Times have been tough for retailers! There is a lot of competition out there, and with an increase in competition, comes the ever growing need to differentiate yourselves from the rest of the pack. Don’t jump the gun, and be in a hurry to pour everything you have into online retail, and neglect your face-to-face interactions. Get Anya Anderson Managing director the basics right first, keep it simple, RedSeed Limited and then look to the world wide web Christchurch for expansion. You may be surprised to find just how well the two work www.redseed.me together.

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INCYDA

JACQUE SHAW

Jacque Shaw is a young Wellington based designer who began her eponymous label in early 2012. After graduating from Massey University with a Bachelors in Fashion Design in 2012 Shaw was doing a lot of made-to-measure jobs but was not creatively satisfied and “needed a creative outlet, so I started my own label” she said. Shaw produces modern clean-cut designs for the “casually cool women who likes something modern with no fuss and loves to dress up but not be over dressed”.

Shaw’s latest collection ‘cåld storage’ is “inspired by a series of photos set at sunrise in a cold, icy environment that sparked a feeling of unease with me” the designer said. Shaw’s designs are classic and modern with a cool kid edge and are stocked in selected boutiques throughout New Zealand.

TARA CUNNIFFE

BROOKE TYSON

INCYDA is a young trendy womenswear brand launched in 2011 by Melbourne based designer Ann Kaddour. The label grew out of Kaddour’s frustration to find the perfect outfit; “I was searching for that perfect combination of day and night, something effortless but cool, looked comfortable and chic but without trying too hard”. Kaddour spent years in the industry honing her skills as a buyer and product developer to build a strong knowledge of fashion design, eventually launching her own label in 2011. The feminine edgy designs are enhanced with pops of colour and bright bold prints to give them a sleek sophisticated appeal whilst remaining young and trendy. INCYDA has launched an online store and is now stocked in over 75 stores throughout Australia.

Brooke Tyson is an up and coming fashion brand that blurs the line between art and fashion.

Launched in 2006 by its namesake designer, the brand’s signature whimsical, playful designs has created a loyal following for the Auckland based designer. Tyson’s foray into fashion was born out of her love of playing dress ups as kid and after years of making clothes for herself and her friends Tyson naturally made the decision to create her own label, with the launch of her Folklore’ collection in 2006.

RADAR

Kelsey Genna is a fun feminine activewear label that fuses fashion and sports to create a hip young line that celebrates working out. The fashionable looks means consumers don’t have to sacrifice style over comfort, something which will certainly appeal to fashion conscious gym junkies. Founded this year by Kelsey Genna, who studied fashion design at the Wanganui School of Design, the line was born out of Genna’s own desire for fashionable and affordable sportswear. “I was at a point where I wanted to design something for the ‘everyday girl’. I’ve always made my own activewear…and there didn’t seem to be a lot of feminine, playful sportswear out there so it seemed like a fun niche to pursue”. The 22 year old fledging designer has also started her own bridal wear label The Flower Bride in 2012.

NOAH AND BOWIE

KELSEY GENNA

Tara Cunniffe is a New Zealand womenswear label launched in 2009 by sisters Tara and Libby Cunniffe. The designer duo debuted their first collection at Air New Zealand Fashion Week’s New Generation Show in 2009. The brand fuses the sisters’ love of art and architecture to create a fun, colourful line with a strong emphasis on print and design. “Tara Cunniffe’s designs are distinctively captivating and through their creative processes, exude an air of sophistication”.

New up and coming brands and designers for you to see first.

Noah and Bowie is a cool new children’s wear line created by Mandy Price. The line is named after Mandy’s two adorable kids Noah and Bowie, who regularly feature in their mum’s designs on the Noah and Bowie Facebook and Instagram websites. Noah and Bowie is a cool clothing line that provides stylish, comfortable clothing for kids, “I pick every item according to my style and individuality, and what I feel would look stylish and chic on my kids,” Mandy said. The line features a range of different products from clothing and baby blankets, to their signature tee’s and adorable leather moccasins, which are available on their online store.

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Behind the business

Buying for the seasons Evolving fashion trends, unpredictable and inconsistent weather conditions, new to market competitors and changes in consumer awareness have changed the way our customers shop and therefore the way we need to buy. Buying for four definitive seasons, each with clear and specific merchandise requirements has long become redundant. Today, in order, to successfully cater to consumer demand we need to continually review and adapt in season.

Offering trans seasonal packages, using trend indicators and developing a strong understanding of supplier lead times and replenishment capabilities can offer you the flexibility to respond and accommodate shifts in demand.

Feels new, wear now: Offering trans seasonal packages We may not be able to rely on Mother Nature to deliver the new season on time, but end of season clearance (traditionally Boxing Day and June/ end of financial year) demands the launch of your new season product. This is where we need to introduce a trans seasonal package that considers the product categories your customer is shopping whilst delivering a distinct change in colour or print story. For example, if you are running a winter floral shirting story featuring burgundy and navy tones, moving into spring you may update a long sleeve shirt in a spring hue of peach and cream.

The product is still wearable but has a new season feel. It is also important that, your trans seasonal palette should lead into or complements your true seasonal colour story.

Put the crystal ball away: Trend indicators Unfortunately, there is no crystal ball to tell us exactly how your season will pan out. Instead, as new season launches, we need to place a solid foundation of trans seasonal product in addition to controlled quantities of true seasonal product. For example, delivering a small offering of summer

dresses or swim in August, gives you the tools to monitor demand and sell through indicating when to grow or rollout your full seasonal offer. Reads on trans seasonal and early new season product will highlight successful colour and print trend stories you can grow out in line with demand.

Know what you’re working with: Risk management techniques In order to truly conquer the seasonal buy, you need a sound understanding of what levers you can pull in season in order to cater shifts in consumer demand. Understanding supplier lead times and stock service capabilities and using them to your advantage can significantly reduce your risk and allow you to truly trade your business in season. Using sales reads in season to identify where your demand is, picking up, repeating or updating best sellers in line with this demand allows you to more accurately cater to your customer.

Working a close to market model requires close and transparent supplier relationships but can significantly increase your full price sell through and profit. When using a trading model, it is also vital you retain open to buy buffer (available but unallocated funds) to allow you the flexibility in season, to chase in performing styles. Retaining buffer in season also gives you the opportunity to cease spending, in order to manage your inventory and underperforming styles should sales perform below expectation.

No two seasons are the same. As external factors impact the way in which our customers shop, our best line of defense is identifying shifts, understand how we can adapt, implement risk management strategies and then respond positively to change.

Lauren will be sharing her fashion Laura Jones buying advice at Fashion Exposed Buyer Sydney 16th-18th August.

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Behind the business

Star Pupil

Studentprofile

The future looks bright for Whitecliffe fashion student Nicole Wesseling.

“I don’t recall the first time I used a sewing machine, I must have been in primary school, but clothing construction has come naturally to me ever since”

Nicole Wesseling is an up and coming fashion designer in her final year at Whitecliffe College of Arts and Design. The 21 year old designer has an impressive resume having already interned with some of New Zealand’s leading fashion to her graduate collection at Whitecliffe designers, such as Vicki Taylor, Kate Sylvester and Charles Parsons. where Nicole is “focusing on using disposed Nicole’s love affair with design stems from her childhood, when she would clothing to construct [her] entire collection”. regularly visit her Grandparents home in Auckland. She recalls being “fully engrossed “I design garments that can be worn in the craft cupboard,” being particularly fascinated with her Grandmother’s fabric effortlessly with a strong focus on paint and was taught to knit before she could sew. Nicole and her two sisters would construction and carefully chosen textiles… regularly play dress ups as children, and it is this world of make believe that allowed and often design pieces that veer away Nicole to explore “the idea that you could transform yourself depending on what you from unnecessary embellishment”. Nicole’s wore,” something she experimented with early on in her designs. “I don’t recall the third year collection “drew inspiration from first time I used a sewing machine, I Zen Buddhism and its connection to wabimust have been in primary school, “I had just turned 17 sabi” and focused on alternative cutting but clothing construction has come and had no prior experience techniques such as subtraction cutting naturally to me ever since”. At the and the zero waste technique. Nicole also tender age of 16 Nicole won the within the fashion industry “experimented with using natural dyes prestigious New Market Young so I was rather gob smacked, including indigo, henna and onionskins Designer competition, winning a especially being in a foreign to develop environmentally conscious one year scholarship to Whitecliffe city like New York” dying techniques”; creating a stunning collection for which she and flying to New York to work received Whitecliffe’s Level 3 Runner Up Fashion Award, having previously won the backstage at Karen Walker.

Charles Parsons Award for Top Year 2 Fashion Student in 2012.

“I had just turned 17 and had no prior experience within the fashion industry The wide range of subjects available at Whitecliffe has allowed Nicole to develop so I was rather gob smacked, especially being in a foreign city like New York”. her creativity, whilst “fashion based subjects has provided [her] with practical Nicole assisted Walker for her fall show, “packaging up each look at her New York knowledge of business structure and the technical skills required for the industry”. apartment, helping backstage and preparing all of the shoes, accessories and The institute’s strong encouragement for students to gain industry experience has clothing for the show”. It was a trip of a lifetime for the young designer, which lead Nicole to receive work opened up her eyes to the reality of life as a fashion designer. placements at Kate Sylvester, In her final year at Marist College Nicole became interested “As a student, your mind is open to all Charles Parsons and Taylor. in the environmental impact of clothing production, making possibilities; this is where creative minds can “Vicki Taylor has been a garments out of recycled ties and tea towels. This concept has filtered through develop positive ideas into realistic solutions” major influence towards my knowledge of the fashion industry,” she states. “I interned in her workroom throughout my first year at Whitecliffe and without that experience I wouldn’t have the same understanding of what the industry requires as I do now”.

Whitecliffe has been the perfect fit for Nicole as she wanted to work in an intimate environment where she could work closely with her lecturers. “The most valuable thing I’ve learnt at Whitecliffe is to be experimental and to follow your intuition. As a student, your mind is open to all possibilities; this is where creative minds can develop positive ideas into realistic solutions”. Nicole’s advice to aspiring fashion students is to “take every opportunity that comes your way, don’t be afraid to make mistakes and work as hard as you possibly can”, advice which has certainly paid off for the fledging fashion designer, who will no doubt take the industry by storm.

Nicole’s obvious talent and skill at her craft is incredible, and with her sights set on her own label somewhere in the future, it is evident that she has a bright future in the world of fashion design.

By Nathalie Owen

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Colour Trending

B

old colours ruled the runway this season, with blue being the hue of choice for designer collections this fall.

The bright colour adds a bold statement to winter dressing, lightening up a usually dull colour palette to beat the winter blues this season.

Whether channeling your inner Jackie O in a Proenza Schouler modern power suit, matched here with Resene Believe, or an ethereal goddess in Alexander McQueen’s navy feathered gown, this colour brings a whole new approach to statement dressing.

Jenny Packham’s fall collection was inspired by the eclectic style of 70s icon Bianca Jagger. The collection featured Packham’s classic embellishment in rich jewel tones and luscious pastel hues. The baby blue feather coat, matched with Resene Escapade, brings to mind a 70s disco diva at Studio 54 and highlights Packham’s innate ability to capture the essence of an era whilst maintaining her signature aesthetic.

A graphic triangle print in brilliant blue highlights how this trend can be taken from

day to night with Carolina Herrera’s elegant form fitting dress, matched with Resene Elvis.

Inspired by the swinging 60s, Gucci’s glamorous pastel collection featured a mod baby blue mohair coat that screamed cool.

While Altuzarra’s sophisticated two-tone wrap coat, matched here with Resene Midnight Oil, is the epitome of uptown elegance with a modern twist.

The magnificent show at Dior transformed Christian Dior’s 1947 new look silhouette into a sleek and modern Raf Simons edge. Standout pieces amongst the collection were the bi-layer dresses.

The sky blue cocktail dress, matched with Resene Float, was worn over a shorter red figure hugging dress and is a sophisticated take on the trend. Highlighting Simons’ genius, the playful trend allows us a peek of the sleek red silhouette underneath the pristine perfection of the elegant blue gown.

From Mary Katrantzou’s classic navy cocktail dress to the bold statement two-tone fur from Balenciaga, the blue hue look is set to be a major trend come fall.

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OUTBehindthe business ABOUT

&

Serge4Gandys

Miss World

Saben Metallic

Angela stone

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Behind the business

Retailprofile

WHITE LION & CO BOUTIQUE White Lion & Co is a new boutique in Tauranga that is bringing back the essence of community, supporting local designers and artisans.

Founded earlier this year by Canadian born Danna St. Lawrence and her partner Phil, the store’s eclectic charm, complete with locker converted clothing racks and suitcase plants, brings a rustic allure to the store that sets White Lion & Co apart from other boutiques.

After moving to Queenstown five years ago, Danna fell in love with the beauty of simplicity of New Zealand and has never looked back.

Originally starting off in hospitability, Danna made the move to retail where she spent a few years working for Lululemon Athletica, then going on to manage Storm in Napier before moving Tauranga.

After years of experience in the industry Danna and Phil decided it was time to make their dreams a reality, by opening their own store. “We decided it’s now or never and we want to start a family in a couple of years,

ONI-KI

Hit: Engaging animation, in-house style analysis and editorial, multiple languages Miss: Homepage images too large for screen, no NZ currency, images can often take time loading.

Lavish Alice

Hit: Great price point, modern selection of clothes, garment suggestions Miss: Limited brands, plain layout, expensive international delivery

the window

so we thought what better time to start our business”.

Together the couple has worked hard to get White Lion & Co up and running, transforming an old café into a cool trendy store; opening their doors in April this year.

“I work on the retail side of things and Phil works more behind the scenes,” Danna says.

“Our aim is to support as locally as we can, even if our products are from overseas, they are designed and produced locally there”.

White Lion & Co currently stocks some great up and coming New Zealand labels such as Anyone’s Daughter and Shen, as well Saben handbags and the Greek label Ioanna Kourbela and Canadian jewellery brand Covet + Keep.

“We want people to come into our store and feel inspired, and to not only be a shop supporting current NZ designers but also a platform for designers just starting out” Danna states. “We are here to support others and bring back that community feel again”.

“It is a big leap for us to go into business, but we could not be happier. This is the beginning of a new journey and we are looking forward to creating a space where people love to come, hang out, have a chat and of course shop!”

By Nathalie Owen

Avenue 32

Hit: Layout is sleek and elegant, much like the garments being sold, features exclusive garments.

Miss: Website crashed and had to reload, an overload of scripts means the website runs slow, persistent and annoying reminders to subscribe to the newsletter take away from the viewing experience.

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Behind the business

Companyprofile

The Art of Signature Scenting Apparel sat down with Jennifer Duncan founder of Illumina Soy Candles, to talk business, olfactive branding and the sense of smell.

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A native of Canada, Jennifer Duncan came to New Zealand originally to study at Otago University and decided to make her home here.

Sixteen years later, in launching Illumina, she decided to make her first scent, Coconut and Lime, inspired by a trip to Hawaii and Fiji.

Today, with her hardworking team of five, they create thousands of signature candles for weddings, events, and retail. Since its inception in 2012, Illumina Soy Candles has developed into a full time business for Duncan. “I have always loved candles, and after seeing a friend make them, I wanted to start myself. I went from making six a month to over 1000 a week.”

The candles are handmade with soy wax, with no genetically modified materials or paraffin.

No unnatural additives are added to the candles and there is no lead or zinc in the wicks. Being non-toxic and using a vegetable base, the product is 100 per cent biodegradable. “The world’s mounting rubbish is a great concern to me and I would like my children to have a beautiful world to grow up in.”

By also offering a candle refill service, recycling old tumblers or candle vessels is “a great way to contribute to keeping New Zealand clean and green”.

Supporting local Kiwi business is top of mind for Duncan and she believes that by using a New Zealand box manufacturer, small import businesses, candle supply and printing companies are a point of difference when selling locally and internationally. With a growing demand for New Zealand made

products in Asia, particularly in the luxury brands sector, Duncan exports the artisanal candles to Singapore and Hong Kong and is looking to enter the European market in the near future.

Retailers have relied heavily on music and colours to create mood in-store, now in breaching the final frontier, sensory branding is becoming a huge part of consumer marketing.

By targeting the sense of smell to attract customers into stores, the consumer establishes a more sophisticated connection with the retailer’s brand.

Whilst no one knows for sure that a specific scent will urge consumers to open their wallets, a scent can make someone feel comfortable in a store, and the length of time a consumer stays in store is directly proportional to the average unit sale per customer. Duncan has worked to create signature scents for retailers and their stores and can see the potential that olfactive branding has in New Zealand.

A study conducted by neurologist and psychiatrist Dr Alan Hirsch in 1990 backs up the smell theory. By placing identical Nike sneakers in two rooms, one was scented with mixed floral scents, one was unscented.

Hirsch’s research found that in the scented environment, 84 per cent of consumers felt a stronger need for the same pair of shoes, which was also deemed to be worth more. Elizabeth Musmanno, president of The Fragrance Foundation in the United States, believes that “One of the most overlooked areas inside the

“I hope to build a candle manufacturing business that is strong, reliable and unique to carry “Made in New Zealand” with style and pride”

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Companyprofile

bricks-and-mortar environment is scent.

Retailers think a lot about the other senses, sight with visual displays and hearing with music, but scenting the environment is often forgotten”. Bloomingdales has specific scents for different departments, like coconut for swimwear, lilac in lingerie and “powdery” scents in infantwear, the smells are apparently so popular that customers have asked for them to be recreated in their homes.

For Duncan and her team at Illumina it is more about creating a brand identity rather than driving sales. In the age of the Internet, it is important to create a customer experience that is more emotional with customers. “The process of coming up with a signature scent for a client takes time. I meet with a client and look at their product and try to establish a feel for their clientele and aesthetics.”

The sound, the shapes and the target market all translate into a smell. A subtle smell is often best, believes Duncan, “A retail store smell is one that you should remember how much you enjoyed being in that space”. According to international studies, 65 per cent of people can remember a memory associated with a scent after one year. A mere whiff of the fragrance can take people back to a store or product experience. A scent for retail stores really is the final frontier.

For more information and finding a scent for your brand contact Jennifer at jenniferduncan134@gmail.com or 021-763-471

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Behind the business Designer Focus

apparelmagazine.co.nz

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Behind the business

Collectionreview

Juliette Hogan

SS15 // New Day New Day follows the story of a woman who is “rich in experience, yet fresh in perspective”. She knows the world and strides through with strength and elegance. Juliette Hogan ever so slightly looks at light to muse her latest collection, not focusing on “prettying or softening” but rather using light as a tool for embracing newfound optimism and determination.

Building on the brand’s staple fabrics, silk, cotton, linen and lace in a muted palate are placed against soft black and mellow purple. Tight fabric and colour options make for an incredibly cohesive collection that exudes everyday elegance whilst retaining the brands well known casual luxury. For it’s use of fabric and colour, the Kelvin Skirt stands out as the collections statement piece. Billowing out to a full A-line shape, the skirt is perfect for a more adventurous wearer and can easily work with some of the better-known basic shirts to dress down the whole look.

It wouldn’t be summer without a floral print. Hogan uses images captured at the Secret Garden to create a vibrant print used on both simple and more elaborate garments. Along with stripes, check, and a jaggered zigzag, the collection houses enough print for it to be important without overbearing the effectiveness of classic plain fabric choices.

The clear winner in basics this season is definitely the ankle skinny jean in Japanese denim. The pant serves as the missing link to the silhouette, grounding, and making sense of each garment. Naturally the pant is available in black and is designed in the image of how Juliette wears her clothes in day-to-day life.

Standouts this season are the Cutler T and Eli Skirt both in honeycomb. Paired together the pieces embody the whole concept of New Day. Adventurous, yet experienced, the two pieces are playful in fabric, yet classic in shape.

New Day is a confident display of pieces tailored to the brands loyal following, both current and forward thinking, Hogan has created a collection with the x-factor that’ll have customers coming back for more.

Normcore is the new fashion trend that is taking the fashion industry by storm. As head to toe looks and look at me outfits have become mainstream, Normcore heads back to basics with the desire to fit in rather than stand out.

Originally coined in 2013 by New York trend agency K-HLOE, the term was inspired by the Science-Fiction writer William Gibson. K-HLOE state in their Youth Mode report that “Normcore doesn’t want the freedom to become someone…Normcore moves away from a coolness that relies on difference to a post-authenticity that opt into sameness.”

The trend, which has become defined by paired back basics, sneakers and a neutral colour palette has been seen on many of the fashion elite and street style stars. This is the new trend of cool and will no doubt be the all rage come fashion week next season.

#normcore

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Behind the business

a rose by any other name photographer CAITLAN MITCHELL / fashion assistant NICOLE WESSELING / model POPPY @ N MODELS / make up & hair GRAYSON COUTTS / with thanks to KINGSIZE STUDIOS

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1.

NEUW Razzle Tank KEVA RANDS Buffet Short in Blue Stripe GORMAN Casual Friday Jacket in Denim KATHRYN WILSON Mela Loafer in Black MYDEERFOX Pasta Bag in Black LE SPECS X CRAIG & KARL Houdini Sunglasses in Gloss Yellow Stripe 2.

TRELISE COOPER Lego House Dress in Orange NYMPHETS Top GORMAN Heels 3.

KEVA RANDS Buffet Shorts in Pink NEUW Knit NYMPHETS Tee HOUSE OF HOLLAND Grace Sunglasses KATHRYN WILSON Mela Loafer in Black 4.

KEVA RANDS Box Dress in Navy GORMAN Champagne Boyfriend Jean in Peach KAREN WALKER Pouch ONITSUKA TIGER Ult Racer Sneakers in Purple Pennant/Yellow 5.

NEUW Silverlake Tank in White TRELISE COOPER Jute Box Skirt HOUSE OF HOLLAND Hexographic Cloud Sunglasses MYDEERFOX Shopper Tote in Natural ONITSUKA TIGER Ult Racer Sneakers in Light Grey/White on the cover: NYMPHETS Dress COOP Bra-Di-Da Bra in Sunshine TRELISE COOPER The Stroll Truth Pant in Green ONITSUKA TIGER Sakurada Sneakers in Grey/Lemon Yellow

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