Apparel Magazine // May 2015

$ 9.00

MAY 2015 I VOL 48 I NO 5

FIRST CLASS pg 20

04 14 16 26

NEWS RADAR COLOUR TRENDING +SIZE

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FASHIONABLE

EDITOR’S letter

READS

PLAYING COPY CAT

INTERNATIONAL designer Vivienne Westwood once gave advice to a group of university students to copy other’s designs in order to learn to make something. “I taught fashion, and started off getting students to copy things…that’s the only way you learn things,” said Westwood. “A young person has experience up to a point, and they can do something and it might be very good, but you can’t do something for very long if you don’t have the ideas coming, you know? It doesn’t come just from you. You have to get it from somewhere.”

This is a far cry however from recent events that saw international womenswear e-tailer Nasty Gal claiming singer Taylor Swift wore an outfit from the site, when in fact it was the work of Olivier Roustaing, designer for luxury brand Balmain. While imitation may be the sincerest form of flattery, replication of someone else’s work and taking credit for it may be a step too far.

It was Taylor Swift’s white jumpsuit at this year’s Billboard Music Awards that was the talk of the town when Nasty Gal posted a picture of the singer in the jumpsuit captioning, “One piece wonder @taylorswift in the #NastyGal Firsco Inferno Jumpsuit at the @ officialbbmas #NastyGalsDoItBetter”.

However, this post swiftly removed from the retailer’s Instagram account shortly after. This also isn’t the first time that the e-tailer has been seen to be a copy cat of luxury fashion,

the NUMBERS . . .

having versions of Alexander Wang, Celine and many more luxury designers’ designs in their collections.

The US$78 knock-off completely sold out nonetheless. Luxury brands are constantly battling rip-offs and outright counterfeits of their designs all the time. International retail giant Zara copies so often that fashion industry insiders refer to the Céline and Balenciaga knock offs the brand does as “Zéline” and “Zalenciaga”. The Nasty Gal situation, however, could be the most public a brand has ever drawn attention to its own copying. Balmain designer, Olivier Rousteing told Vogue, “I think it was Coco Chanel who said, if you’re original, be ready to be copied”. “I love seeing a Zara window with my clothes mixed with Céline and Proenza!”

Enjoy this month’s issue – and if you want to keep up-to-date with news as it happens make sure you check out our weekly newsletter.

Electric Fashion

by FREDERIC ARANDA AND CHRISTINE SUPPES This is the story of how collector, Christine Suppes, significantly developed online fashion editorial whilst developing a unique fashion collection in the heart of Silicon Valley. A 360 degree angle is given from fashion, historical, cultural, and practical standpoints.

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

Fall Women’s Fabric Fashion Visionaries

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by LINDA WATSON Featuring 75 of the world’s most legendary designers this story of fashion is portrayed through fascinating personal lives and innovative collections. Arranged in a broadly chronological order, the tome outlines the impact inventive individuals have had on the development of fashion over the past century.

% of black lace products are currently retailing in the mass market

42

%

A huge of black organza is currently retailing within the % premium market, luxury market and % mass market

45%

Velvet is mass market and 32% luxury

36

18

Textiles and Fashion: Materials, Design and Technology

SOURCE: The Big 5 Trends for Fall 2015, EDITD

PUBLISHER EDITOR SALES & MARKETING SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR EDITORIAL ASSITANT

ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DESIGNER

2 I May 2015

Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Jessica-Belle Greer - jessica@reviewmags.com Thomas Fowler - tommie@reviewmags.com Lisa Moriarty Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com

PHOTOGRAPHER CIRCULATION/ADMIN

Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com

ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.

by ROSE SINCLAIR Designed for students and professionals who require an overview of textile materials and processes this is a comprehensive one volume textbook. Details are given on the main types of natural and synthetic fibres, the key processes involved in converting fibres and then transforming yarns into fabrics and finishings.

From design and manufacture to marketing this is a definitive guide to textiles.

Let us help you make the best match.

Call JACQUI 09 309 5020 or visit www.nzfashiontech.ac.nz

news

BONDS X IGGY AZALEA

AUSTRALIAN brand has enlisted fellow Aussie star Iggy Azalea as its new brand face. Azalea will feature across various campaign imagery including billboards, in store promotion and online from mid May. Growing up in Australia, the rapper said she has a long history with the brand and is happy to be a part of the team as a long time fan.

Group marketing manager Tanya Deans said she was ecstatic to have Azalea on board, with her originality and style consciousness adding to the Bonds brand. “She’s a style chameleon who’s never afraid to be true to herself. She has enviable body confidence, making her a great role model for all women and the perfect fit for Bonds.”

THE PINK CITY FROM CATHY POPE

JEWELLER Cathy Pope has released her highly anticipated new collection titled The Pink City. The collection was inspired by Pope’s recent trip to Jaipur, and includes a range of beautifully crafted rings, necklaces and earrings, using semi-precious gemstones. The unique milky and opaque textures of the gemstones compliment the timeless simplicity of the designs, making each piece from The Pink City delicate, feminine and easy to wear. For more information visit www. cathypope.co.nz.

AMNESTY OFFERED

BY UGG AUSTRALIA

THIS winter will see the launch of UGG Australia Amnesty, the trade in program designed to give back to the community. Between May 18 and September 30, existing UGG customers can take in their much loved boots, regardless of their condition, and receive a 30% discount off selected styles at the Auckland flagship store. The available range includes all of the UGG Australia classic boots, spanning across the colour palette of black, chestnut, grey, blue, tropical sun and more, each colour available in mini, short and tall sizes. “We know people love to come home from a long day at the office, kick off their work shoes and slip into their uggs. This winter we want people to be able to enjoy the beautiful feeling only a plush, new pair of UGG boots can give,” said Kimberley Maiolo, UGG Australia marketing manager. All pre-loved ugg boots that are still in good condition will be donated to the Auckland City Mission.

CLICK AND COLLECT AT KATE SYLVESTER

NEW Zealand fashion label Kate Sylvester has introduced a click and collect system as part of a new strategy to enhance customer experience. With the flexibility of ordering online and the convenience of being able to pick up a garment from the nearest store, customers will no longer have to wait around for the courier. Customers are notified by email when the order is ready to be collected in store and the brand endeavours to have the order in-store within 24 hours. The order is then kept for 10 days from when it is ready to be collected, and after the 10 days, customers will be refunded and the garments will be returned as stock. As the customer visits the physical store to collect their items, this presents the retailer with an opportunity to add value.

Once in store, customers are more likely to buy additional products, the old stock sells stock, and there’s the ability for staff to deliver personalised customer service. Having real stores and real people to interact with means it is also easier for customers to return or exchange goods – a major barrier for shoppers who buy online or from international outlets. “From concept to reality it took 2-3 weeks, figuring out the terms and conditions, and implementing the site changes,” said Lauren Ashley, e-commerce and media co-ordinator at Kate Sylvester.“ This allows for our Auckland and Wellington customers to have a much faster service where possible and the option of opting out of couriers if they don’t have easy delivery addresses. It also means that if they are unsure of their sizing or would like our shop girl’s assistance they have the ability to try on or exchange when they pop in to pick it up.

4 I May 2015

HALLENSTEINS BOOST PROFIT

FOLLOWING the less then favourable performance last year, clothing retailer Hallenstein Glasson have increased profit by 40 per cent in the first half of the year. The increase surpassed company forecasting and shows signs of apparel spending on the rise, with menswear brand Hallensteins coming out on top.

“If you look at the Glassons womenswear, its earnings are down quite significantly and I think women’s apparel is tough. But Hallensteins menswear has gone very well,” said Craigs Investment Partners analyst, Chris Byrne. An innovative marketing campaign and more successful buying decisions has helped Hallensteins regain its market share in the menswear sector, whilst Glassons performed strong in Australia.

“We are pleased with the progress we have made in regaining market share, the critical trading period of December and January was particularly robust and we have seen that momentum carry forward,” said chief executive, Graeme Popplewell.

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news

ADIDAS ORIGINALS BY RITA ORA

EXCLUSIVE DEAL FOR MEI + PICCHI

AUSTRALASIAN mannequin distributor Mei + Picchi have signed an exclusive deal to bring Italian brand, ABC Mannequins to Australia and New Zealand.

The new range will start with three initial collections, Ophelia, Ophelia Man and Juno. Each range will be available to view in Mei + Picchi’s showrooms in Melbourne and Sydney.

The Ophelia and Ophelia Man ranges are one of the most recognisable collections from ABC Mannequins and have been used in major international fashion brands windows and in store displays. The theatrical movement in the Ophelia poses are bound to make a statement and are the perfect visual merchandising tool for fashion retailers.

TOPSHOP TO OPEN IN CAPITAL

FOLLOWING the success of Topshop in Auckland, fashion designer Karen Walker said Wellington is set to get its own within the next 12 months. Walker explained she may have found the right spot for a Topshop in Wellington, meaning it wouldn’t be long until the global fashion retailer made its way to the capital.

Extensive queues during the first week of Topshop opening were only the beginning of what looks to be a continual demand for its products. With the Auckland store spanning two stories across 1300sq metres, Walker said that a store of similar size would work well in Wellington. Expansion doesn’t end there, with plans to extend out to Christchurch and open a second retail space in Auckland.

ICONIC sportswear brand has teamed up with actress, style icon and musician Rita Ora in a new collaboration that is alive with fresh thought and at the forefront of the season’s trends. Echoing her own unstoppable nature, Ora has long been drawn to the energy and power symbolised by the dragon in Asian culture and replicated it in the new dragon print. Timeless basketball styles inspire the silhouettes of this dynamic, powerful pack, while creating a bridge between Western style and Eastern culture.

For this latest collaboration with adidas Originals, Ora has taken classics such as the Superstar sneaker and played with the bold graphics against re-imagined shapes for a collection that is daring and vibrant. The collaboration also features a white smoke collection that is quietly confident, opulent and edgy, unfurling across a wispy tank dress and even the iconic Superstar sneaker.

GLASSONS FAIL ETHICAL REPORT

AUSTRALASIAN fashion retailer Glassons received multiple F ratings in a report exposing the exploitation of workers in the fashion business. The report surveyed 219 fashion brands on their policies, traceability, training, and workers’ rights. For all but the policies category, Glassons received an F rating.

The report follows a series of prior controversies for Glassons, who were hammered by complaints about its mannequins showing ribs and advertising which featured a woman riding a bull, attracting the attention of animal rights activists. Glassons representatives have refused to comment on the report.

TWEEN OFFERING LAUNCHES

THREAD & Sole, children’s and youth footwear and apparel retailer has opened it’s first store at Sylvia Park, which will be closely followed by another opening in Manukau later in the month.

The retailer has a goal of opening 18 stores nationwide within three years. The stores will range in size from 118 to 150sqm. Brainchild of Kelly Leigh and Mark Anderson, the store has been well received by the market. “The feedback is that customers are welcoming this option as a change to the typical kids shopping environment,” said Leigh. Thread & Sole currently stock international footwear and apparel labels for boys and girls ageing from three to 14.

#glitter

6 I May 2015

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news

MICHAEL HILL IN THE BIG APPLE

JEWELLER Michael Hill has come a long way from a family business in Whangarei to now opening his first store in New York City. The opening of the new store is an occasion to celebrate as they launch the iconic Kiwi business into the New York market, having had success in other states. “We have been so looking forward to sharing the brand and jewellery with New Yorkers,” said Sir Michael Hill, who opened his first store in Whangarei in 1979. The store will feature both the Michael Hill and Emma & Roe ranges of jewellery, and is located in a popular large urban mall in Queens. The second New York store is scheduled to open later this year in Roosevelt Field. Michael Hill International currently has over 290 Michael Hill Jewellers and eight Emma & Roe stores around NZ, Australia, the US and Canada.

TRIUMPH CREATES SHORT FILM

GLOBAL lingerie company Triumph has launched a Disney-inspired animated short film to help women find their perfect bra. Featuring a cartoon version of Hannah Ferguson, Sports Illustrated star and Triumph model. The film follows Ferguson’s journey with her friends, fairy Godmother and even frog prince. The music has been created by Tony award winning musical theatre composer Jason Robert Brown with vocal performances from three acclaimed Broadway singers. Prague’s Philharmonic Orchestra performs the score to accompany Ferguson’s journey. “It is really important for us to find new ways of bringing to life the bra finding journey so that we continue to inspre customers to go for a bra fitting,” said head of brand, Nicola Hodgson. To watch the short film visit www.apparelmagazine.co.nz.

FLO & FRANKIE ON THE MOVE

WOMEN’S fashion, accessories, gifts and homewares retailer Flo & Frankie have moved to a bigger and brighter store on Nuffield Street in Newmarket. They have taken all brands from the three sister stores to create a gorgeous urban oasis with the biggest selection of fashion and lifestyle products. The three stores will be open until the new store is complete and open for business.

TROUBLE FOR ALIBABA

ALIBABA Group have been accused by owner of fashion brands Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent of profiting from sales of counterfeit goods despite the Chinese e-commerce giant’s pledge to combat the trade in fakes. France’s Kering SA and a group of its brands at a New York court have filed the lawsuit. This comes as a setback for Alibaba’s effort to reassure companies and regulators it is taking effective action to keep counterfeit goods off its online sales platforms. In a statement, Alibaba said it has a “strong track record” of cooperating with brands to protect their intellectual property.

BIRD AND KNOLL X QANTAS

LUXURY scarf brand, Bird and Knoll has announced collaboration with Qantas Airways. Fronted by supermodel and businesswoman Jessica Hart, the brand alignment sees the scarf designers photographing and producing a limited edition scarf for Qantas highlighting Hart’s favourite destination in Australia that “Feels Like Home”. The New York based model will become a trend consultant to Qantas Airways, translating her knowledge and understanding of global fashion trends into exciting projects to benefit Qantas Frequent Flyers, starting with a beautiful exclusive Bird and Knoll scarf. The scarf will be launched in September.

techwatch

LE TOTE

Le Tote sees itself as the ‘Netflix of fashion.’ It sends subscribers a box of five clothing and accessory pieces that they can wear as long as they like before returning them for a refreshed garment shipment. Virtual closet selections and copious feedback are given by customers and Le Tote’s algorithms pick out items for each customer for US$49 per month.

8 I May 2015

STITCH FIX

Using data algorithms from customer surveys, page activity and a force of 300 stylists, Stitch Fix courier a personal assortment of five clothing and accessory pieces to each customer. There is no shipping charge but a stylist fee of US$20 that is subtracted from the order total if a customer chooses to keep one or more items.

If all five pieces are purchased, the customer receives a 25% discount. If not, they just send the box back.

SHOP IT TO ME

Shop It To Me uses leading-edge technology to monitor websites, categorize information and match items in order to find fashionable sale items to customers’ personal liking. With over 150 leading online retailers and four million members, email alerts are essential to the service.

Gubb & Mackie’s New Heritage Store

A CONTEMPORARY focus and respect for tradition is evident at Gubb & Mackie’s new store on Vulcan Lane, Auckland. In a category two historic building, large open archways and ascending pillars surround the brand’s expanding product range that now includes a collection of like-minded brands, including National Athletic, William Lockie and Wood and Faulk.

Gubb & Mackie’s rich history in menswear began in 1949, when it was established as a naval tailor. Military and naval references continue to make an appearance in the brand’s designs, still manufactured using traditional techniques. The store fit out, overseen by New Zealand designer Jamie McLellan, reflects Gubb & Mackie’s proud heritage.

Custom fixtures made of solid brass, powder coated steel and ash and sample mahogany wood naturally references the brand’s naval history. This is McLellan’s first store interior; whose wide-ranging designs include light fixtures and kayaks for international clients. A bold ultramarine blue feature wall was designed by unique paint technology firm, drikolor. Its revolutionary granulated paint mixing system blends natural pigments with champagne chalk and a Les Couleurs® Le Corbusier palette for a striking tint finish.

Modern techniques mix with Gubb & Mackie’s proud pedigree in the new store to showcase a menswear brand steeped in tradition yet strengthened in modernity.

menswear news

Mr Porter New Fitness Venture

AS the demand for fashion forward athletic options rise, international e-tailer Mr Porter have expanded into the performance market with Mr Porter Sport. The new category brings together more than 25 brands across nine disciples, including running, cycling, tennis, golf, training, outdoor, swimming, sailing, and overall fitness accessories. “We know that sport and fitness are integral to our customers’ interests and day to day lives, so beyond offering the best men’s fashion, we want to offer our global audience the best in men’s sports apparel as well,” said Mr Porter buying director, Toby Bateman. Mr Porter Sport has its own dedicated section on the Mr Porter website and plans to expand into more disciplines throughout the year, including ski and surf, with the initial selection covering more than 150 new products. “In keeping with our ethos of editing only the best brands within each category, we have chosen our sport brands based primarily on their technical performance properties, but also for their style.” Mr Porter launched in February 2011 and expanded into grooming in 2013, where they currently feature more than 32 specialist brands.

Crane Brothers New Campaign

TAILORS of contemporary menswear, Crane Brothers, has collaborated with illustrator Akira Sorimachi to create a new distinctive campaign. The illustration is the first in the series and has been designed to be trans-seasonal to promote more of the brand rather than the seasonal collections or garments.

Timeless Travel Essentials

THE Brothers have just launched a refined four piece capsule collection for men on the go. Like in most menswear offerings, detail played a massive role in the production of each item for The Brothers, using the finest hardwearing cowhide leather available in black and tan. Hidden details like shoe compartments and internal pockets add peace of mind to the most cautious travellers and add to the excitement as customers continually rediscover additional functionality. Bogart, connery, fitzgerald and huntsman, a garment bag, 72-hour bag, gentleman’s carry all and a toiletry bag serve as a truly all-functional travel kit.

Plan your visit now.

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WINTER GIfT aNd HomEWaRE faIR 7-9 JuNE 2015

Horncastle Arena, Christchurch

www.giftfairs.co.nz

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behind the business

PLENTY OF PLEATS THE universal feminine treatment

of any garment, pleats add volume without bulk and create a graceful silhouette that billows as it walks.

PLEATED skirts came back in full force, long length and ready to walk the streets.

Executed in a range of new and exciting fabrics, pleated skirts shredded the school girl connotation and emerge as a modern and elegant garment choice for spring.

Executed in materials like chiffon, silk and metallic cotton, the international runways paved the way for pleats to make a grand entrance back into the fashion vocabulary.

Proenza Schouler flounced a selection of cream, black and silver pleated skirts down the Spring 14 runway, three quarter length and paired with military boots to couple the opposite ends of masculine and feminine.

Following Schouler was Celine, who layered an ultra-sheer black pleated skirt over a colour-blocked dress. The product was a multi length masterpiece that moved and shimmered on the runway, distorting the print on the dress to keep it interesting.

New Zealand followed suit, with local designers opting for similar pleated styles in their collections this season. Much like Celine, Vaughan Geeson also used a translucent black pleated skirt to play with illusions and give an ultra feminine look. Nyne however took a bolder approach, using heavy, dark fabric with massive box pleats falling half way down the calf.

accessory alert

SOFTWARE FOR TODAY

COMMITTED to constantly improving both their software and service, Today Software have recently updated both their website and their famous POSperfect software. Owners Dale Kelly, Mark Jones and Zhen Liu have a vast number of years of experience in retail management software. POSperfect is developed in-house and provides the power and flexibility to deliver a range of advanced features for the apparel industry.

POSperfect manages complex inventory and sales information in a simple format for the end user. The size/colour matrix, specially developed for the apparel and footwear industries, allows the user to have accurate sales figures on a particular colour and size of each garment through a single style code (SKU). This effectively reduces hundreds of potential variants of a product into a single product code.

“Suits on Broadway have been working with Today Software for eleven years.

We have looked at other systems but POSperfect is the only system that handles our inventory with ease over multiple fitting and size levels,” said David Eggleton, owner, Suits on Broadway.

With an intuitive interface, POSperfect can be learnt in a matter of hours and staff members require minimal training. Today Software are ready to be involved as stores see fit; able to help with induction, training and repair with remote software and site visits when necessary. “We do not have a lot of contact with Today Softwear because we have had very few issues with POSperfect as a retail POS system. When we do have a question or a problem it is answered and solved straight away, either by phone or online within minutes,” said Eggleton. Today Software’s commitment is unwavering with a helpline open after hours. Hardware is even supplied by Today Software who sell computers, printers and scanners at competitive market prices.

POSperfect is fully integrated to include point of sale as well as back office systems that do not require additional accounting software. The system can work with touch screen or standard PC interfaces and is as reliable as it is robust. For maximum stability POSperfect is not server or cloud dependent. In the event of any network outage, the system will automatically process all stored transactions and stock movements on reconnection. POSperfect serves as the bedrock for thousands of retail stores worldwide, ranging from small shops to large retail chains and now with a new website they can communicate even more effectively to their range of clients.

SATISFYING SOCKS

SATISFYING Socks are fun, colourful and standout socks. Creator, Logan Freeman never planned to make socks but at the age of 15 he noticed an influx of patterned socks and thought he could make his own. Now 17, Freeman has collaborated with successful Crate Clothing and is continuing to boost his brand profile.

Most designs come from Freeman’s doodling and his friends give helpful opinions, with one friend even designing his best seller, the FRUIT sock.

With the motto ‘satisfy the sole’ Satisfying Socks are stocked in Superette and are open to more fashion collaborations.

For more information, contact Logan at satisfyingsocks@live.com.

10 I May 2015

footwear news

CUSTOM PRADA IN AUSSIE

FOR the first time ever in Australia customers could order limited edition custom micro sole shoes. Both Sydney and Melbourne shoppers had the opportunity to create their own made to order shoes, with a selection that ranged 32 colour variations for a single shade shoe or a twotone combination, including scarlet and black, mercury grey and white, and black and white. As an additional personal touch, customers could also have their initials branded in gold on the sole.

With an approximate delivery time of 60 days, customers who paid between $1,480 and $2,500 AUD can expect their custom Prada kicks to arrive later next month.

NIKE UNDER THREAT BY SKETCHERS

RECENT investment has seen Sketchers become one of the hottest shoe companies in America. A report by Morgan Stanley suggests the underdog brand could become the second highest selling shoe company, falling just behind Nike.

“The Skechers brand has evolved from a knock-off brand, to more one with its own looks and styles,” Morgan Stanley analysts write. The company achieved record sales of $US2.4billion in 2014, with the share price more than doubling in the last year. A series of factory investments and celebrity endorsements has helped put Skechers on the forefront of footwear design, coupled with the rising trend of everyday sportswear.

iP is about ideas protected If you’re in the design industry then you’re in the business of creating intellectual property. Helping you turn that IP into a valuable asset is where we come in.

If you want to find out how to be rewarded for your creativity and innovation – talk to us about protecting and commercialising your IP. We’ve been helping designers do this since 1891! Contact us today to find out more.

0800 257 275 I www.ajpark.com I New Zealand + Australia

“Increased activity leads to increased athletic apparel and footwear spending. We see athletic footwear and apparel as more than a fashion trend.” The number of people participating in running events has grown an average of 9 percent every year since 2005 with millennials believing exercise is essential for health, while their parents only focused on diet.

HIGH HEELS FOR KIDS

IT might seem outlandish, but designer Michelle Holbrook has released a range of “Pee Wee Pumps” for babies. The heels come after an extended struggle for Holbrook to find stylish shoes for her daughter, prompting her to instead design her own. “Fashion-forward mums love to dress up their little girls with the cutest bows and outfits, and are always looking for the perfect pair of shoes to complete any outfit. Now they’ve found them with Pee Wee Pumps,” said Holbrook.

With names like ‘sassy’, ‘swanky’, ‘wild child’ and ‘pretty in pink’, the range intends to fill a gap in the market for fashionable footwear dedicated to infants. Critics however have slammed the idea as degusting, sexualised and inappropriate.

TOMS CONTINUE ONE FOR ONE

FROM May 5 to 21, leaders of the One for One movement TOMS shoes will give away up to 1 million pairs of shoes to children in need. Using the hashtag #withoutshoes on Instagram, you can take a pic of yourself without shoes and for every picture taken TOMS will match by sending out a pair of shoes. One Day Without Shoes brings global awareness to children’s health and education by asking the world to go without shoes for a day, a meeting, a minute, and an Instagram snap.

“We’re extending the timeframe to build awareness and anticipation, but most importantly, so that more people can participate in an effort to give more. The best part is that even if someone is not a TOMS customer, he or she can simply take a photo and post #withoutshoes to make sure a child in need somewhere in the world will get a new pair,” said TOMS founder, Blake Mycoskie.

Having already donated nearly 140,000 shoes, TOMS hopes to increase its donation to US $1 million.

POSperfect Leaders in retail point of sale software • Proven and Reliable with maximum stability • Powerful and Flexible reporting • SKU/PLU and Size/Colour options • Touch Screen or Standard PC • Fully integrated with eftpos and accounting interfaces • Internal and external loyalty programs • Not server or Cloud dependent

Call 09 520 1486

email sales@today.co.nz for more information

AJ Park is about iP • intellectual property • igniting passion • ideas pervading

www.posperfect.com apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 11

beauty news

FIVE YEARS STRONG FOR PARNELL’S BEST NAILS

THE widely regarded ‘Queen of Nails’, Amber Mciver, celebrated Verdo’s five-year anniversary last month. Coming a long way from its humble beginnings as a lowly nail bar, Verdo have expanded its business with new tanning, hair and makeup facilities, not to mention its very own makeup school. “We’re excited to be celebrating five years in Parnell. I love my job and I’ve come to think of my clients as friends,” said Mciver. “I am a true believer in creating experiences, so as soon as they step through our door we do everything we can to accommodate their needs.” With a series of accolades to its name, Verdo has been named the official nail partner for New Zealand Fashion Week three years in a row.

CLINIQUE are set to release a new range of Turnaround Revitalising products that work day and night to boost natural cell renewal. The range consists of six different treatments, which work to combat daily skin damage and help with the body’s natural cycle of renewal.

A revitalising lotion, serum, day and night moisturiser, treatment oil and facial will all become available from June onwards as a full-scale treatment option for every day use.

WHEN YOUR MAKEUP REQUIRES NO FILTER

THE new range from Smashbox Cosmetics dares wearers to leave the filter alone with its new foundation and concealer combo. Smashbox’s Photo Filter Powder Foundation paired with a 24 Hour CC Spot Concealer are designed to hide any imperfections with a long wear natural look. The foundation’s Light Filter Technology combined with the performance of long-wear Photoset Polymers ensure the formula sticks to skin for hours on end meaning no need to reapply throughout the day. The range is available in 10 shades spanning from vanilla right through to cocoa. To finish off Smashbox have also released a game changing 24 hour concealer. The full-coverage formula instantly covers the look of most skin imperfections without looking fake, flaky or cakey whilst being water, sweat and humidity resistant. Featuring a specially designed micro-precision applicator, the Smashbox 24 Hour CC Spot Concealer is available across 6 shades – fair, fair/light, light, light/neutral, medium and dark.

Both products are available from select Life Pharmacies, beauty spas and the Smashbox Concept Store in Ponsonby as well as online.

HELLO, GLOW

NEW BEAUTY LAB BREAKTHROUGH IN an exciting new take on chia seeds, Goodness Natural Beauty Lab has transformed the popular super food into a skin changing super product. The company is first in New Zealand to begin retailing certified organic chia seed oil which has the perfect 3:1 ratio of omega 3 to omega 6 essential fatty acids. Combining the two has been shown to promote general skin healthiness and natural anti-inflammatory support. Available through selected Farmers and New World stores nationwide, Goodness products are all free from artificial fragrance and colours.

The industry according to . . . Margarita Robertson NOM*d

MY business life in the fashion industry began in 1975. That year my husband Chris and I opened our first store, Hang Ups Boutique in Dunedin. It was established as an indulgence for me to explore, purchase and sell fashion that was not mainstream. I sourced brands that were not readily available in Dunedin, true boutique style brands Made in New Zealand.

Fast track to 2015, 40 years later, my business and fashion life has changed dramatically, apart from the fact that we still have a store in Dunedin and I still explore, wear and sell fashion that is not mainstream!

We sell our own brand which is made in New Zealand alongside internationally recognised brands that are produced out of Italy, France or Japan. The industry has changed so much over those years, we now live in a fast paced fashion world, with the decrease in import duties and the advance of technology and communication, fashion is a global and instant commodity.

We can see exactly what is going on in larger fashion capitals in seconds, we are constantly reminded about who is wearing what, and everybody has access to cheap fast fashion. This is what mega chainstores and the internet have given us.

The other significant change in our world here in New Zealand is the demise of locally made product. When we first started manufacturing NOM*d in 1986 there was a huge choice of what factories we could work with to produce our brand. In the thirty years hence 70% of the CMT factories have had to close down, largely and almost exclusively due to products being made cheaply in the East and the New Zealand industry not being able to compete with pricing.

12 I May 2015

The industry has suffered greatly in the fact that technicians and machinists have not been given the status they deserve here in New Zealand

The industry has suffered greatly in the fact that technicians and machinists have not been given the status they deserve here in New Zealand, so students coming through design schools are only interested in becoming ‘designers’ as opposed to other really important sectors in the industry, including construction and garment technology.

On a good note, I see that some institutions are now offering fashion courses that major in business studies and media communications within the fashion industry. This is a great move forward. This is an area that can grow significantly in New Zealand.

Whether the presence of CMTs in New Zealand continues into the future is debatable. It would be wonderful if the education sector and the government could sort out a process to re-establish the manufacturing industry here.

Luckily there are a limited number of designers and retailers who are still interested in giving consumers clothes that will become iconic, clothes that stand the test of time and have interesting stories to tell and will be lovingly passed down to future generations. And fortunately a discerning group of New Zealanders love and respect these ideals and luckily they are our customers, shopping happily at stores such as Plume and NOM*d.

trendwatch

Precious Metals AFTER breaking through on the Spring 14 international runways, local designers have coined on to the ultra sleek shimmering trend of metallics this season. More adventurous looks were observed, moving from traditional metallic placement on various accessories into the incorporation of full reflective fabrics being used across whole garments.

On an international scale, Diane von Furstenberg kicked off the trend back in 2014 with a series of gold metallic motifs used throughout her collection both in the garments and accessories. Zara put out a line of metallic skirts, simple yet bold and to the point with no additional details other than the silhouette.

In the local market, Kathryn Wilson used gold across her collection of shoes whilst Mimco mixed actual metal with metallic finish fabrics on its selection of bags. The stand out looks from this trend come from Charmaine Reveley who showcased a metallic floral and a gold scale print on its dresses.

Both prints were executed on a minimal silhouette to avoid any elements of cluttered design and achieved a beautiful balance of detail and elegance.

JULIETTE HOGAN SS15: Sunset Boulevard TAKE a walk down the Sunset Boulevard. Watch as the sun falls to its sleep and you catch a glimpse of when day becomes night. It’s in this moment that you will find the inspiration behind Juliette Hogan’s summer 2015 collection. The collection is a metaphor for possibilities, the constant unknowing of what is to come.

When the sun turns to the moon the day is washed away and the night overwhelms you with the endless opportunities that seem to span a lifetime.

Aptly named, Sunset Boulevard is designed to effortlessly transition from day to night.

With minimal change, a ‘JH girl’ can simply run her fingers through her hair and be ready for a big night full of limitless options. Minimalism runs its course through the entire collection, with close attention paid to each garment as to not over design or complicate. Necklines are treated to a plunging V and generous pleating used to generate volume.

Taking from the environment, the collection follows a sandy desert palette in brand signature fabrics to the tune of cotton, silk and cashmere. Darker tones include New Zealand staple black set against lace, sequins and shot silk sateen. Prints fill the space between light and dark, reflecting an almost psychedelic sunset sky-scape alongside a standout shocking fuchsia in structured linen pieces.

Basics aren’t excluded from the Hogan offering, with a selection of jeans, separates, knitwear and tees to enhance the statement pieces that feature across the collection. It’s the coupling of stand out looks and a general sport luxe that continues to define the Juliette Hogan brand, pushing it to new heights.

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I 13

View these brands and more on ApparelBuyersLounge.com

ZIP ME UP

ZIP Me Up is a ladies fashion hub located in Christchurch’s unique shopping destination The Colombo, Sydenham.

Although Zip Me Up began solely online in 2010, the need for a permanent base in Christchurch was quickly realised and as a quirky boutique mall, Colombo fitted the bill.

Sisters, Kelsey Smart and Kezia Martin founded the company based on strong values and exceptional customer service. With the motto, ‘Experience, Connect, Shop,’ Zip Me Up has received an overwhelming positive response from the public with the excitement of finally having a one stop destination. Zip Me Up focuses on occasion wear and a growing range of jewellery and accessories.

Zip Me Up houses top Australian and New Zealand designer labels such as Alice McCall, Bec & Bridge, Finders Keepers, Keepsake, Blak Love, Talulah, Shakuhachi. With ever changing window displays, merchandising and new initiatives, such as shopping events, Zip Me Up is more than just a store. Email customercare@zipmeup.co.nz or call 03 3778110 for more information.

MORGAN CANDLE CO.

ALICIA Morgan found she was spending too much money on candles when she decided to start making them herself. “I’ve always loved candles and the way they can make you feel dependant on the smell and the room it’s in,”said Morgan. The founder is a qualified makeup artist with nine years experience and is self taught in candle making. Morgan Candle Co’s customer base was originally friends, but as Morgan’s brand began to grow her customer range broadened. Brown Sugar and Fig is Morgan Candle Co’s scent of the moment. The hand-poured eco-friendly materials are mostly sourced in New Zealand. Morgan Candle Co has a handful of stockists and is looking to increase its wholesale account. To find out more, contact morgancandleco@gmail.com.

YOU’RE WELCOME

SONG FOR THE MUTE

LYNA Ty and Melvin Tanaya, cofounders of Australian label Song For The Mute (SFTM) hold self-empowerment at the core of their sophisticated label. “Song for the Mute is an attempt to re-infuse some passion and belief that makes clothing worth wearing,” said Tanaya.

The classic with a twist SFTM garments begin with a fabric, which is then manipulated to construct comfort and werabilty. As creative director, Ty is inspired by each piece of fabric to create deeper meaning as well as quality apparel. New shapes and styles are developed by testing fabric for intrigue as well as practicality. As managing director, Tanaya sees the importance of deeper meaning in SFTM. “Coming from an Asian background, creativity is often seen as a dead end,” said Tanaya. Friends since secondary school, Ty and Tanaya have an equal desire to celebrate design and creativity.

SFTM has a flagship store located in Glebe, Sydney, with seasonal collections exhibited at Paris Fashion Week. SFTM has a refined list of online and in store sockitsts. For more information, email info@songforthemute.com.

14 I May 2015

YOU’RE Welcome is a breath of fresh and brightly coloured air that creates a different perspective within the homeware and fashion industries. Owner, Amy Howell, studied fashion design in New Zealand before completing a post graduate degree at Central St. Martins, London. You’re Welcome fulfills Howell’s desire to run her own creative business.

Bright, discordant colourways in crisp geometric patterns and quality fabrics run throughout Howell’s ranges that are for the fun and fearless. You’re Welcome creates a home or workplace environment that is out of the ordinary but connected to fashion. Colour, pattern, form, fit and proportion are still paramount and there is a strong concept behind each range with fashion fabrics rather than furnishing fabrics being used. You’re Welcome has noticed how fashion retailers like to include the homeware genre with their offering to create a whole lifestyle option for customers. The brand looks for likeminded stockists that are design lead and interested in unique products. For more information email, amy@yourewelcome.co.nz.

MALLORY XAVIER

MALLORY Allen of Mallory Xavier used her first and middle name for her New Zealand made childrenswear label so failing was not an option. Allen studied fashion design and practice at Wintec originally just to learning how to sew. Before this, Allen worked in youth transition, with an education degree specialising in Autism. Allen combines these skills today by mentoring young New Zealand designers.

As owner and operator of Little Umbrella, Tauranga, Allen supports a range of New Zealand made clothing, art and gifts with like minded self starters. After the arrival of Allen’s daughter Coco, now four, Allen noticed a gap in the market for New Zealand made clothing that was both dressy enough for formal occasions yet hard wearing enough for toddler play. The shapes and sensibility of vintage fashions inspire the cute yet functional label that was a reaction to fleeting adult fashion trends reflected in mass produced toddler apparel that concerned Allen. Mallory Xavier is a wholesome label with two collections a year.

For more information contact mallory@malloryxavier.com

MAX MOLLISON

AS a satirical and pop culture orientated label Max Mollison is cheeky and cartoon-esque . “I like to say the collection is what Romy and Mich ele can wear to their next high school reunion,” said designer Max Mollison. The label is inspired by television and each collection Mollison creates is like a character.

An image is taken of anything on a screen and a collage is made with image manipula ting iPhone apps, and this new image is made into a garment.

The label tugs on nostalgia as cons umers identify with different icons and imagery with in the clothing.

Humour and story telling in the colle ction provide the most fun for Mollison whilst signature prints and denim are enduring themes for Max Moll ison.

Mollison studied fashion design at Massey University because it was his main hobby.

“Homework had never been more satisfying,” said Mollison, who made so many clothes as a hobby he needed somewhere to put them and give both his clothes and efforts a purpose.

Max Mollison is currently produced in Mollison’s hometown Dunedin. Specialty mate rials and digital fabric printers are found online and other materials are sourced locally. A new collection will be out by the end of the year. There is expected to be a lot of influences from Mollison’s current loca tion, Florida.

Imagine a dolphin sticker slapped on the side of a hot tub under a palm tree, or a Peps i truck parked outside an alligator souvenir cup discount store, mixed with different denim. For mor e information, email maxmollison@gmail.com.

PIXIEKINI

TAMSYN Cornwall’s love of fashion led her to Fiji Fashion Week where she worked in event assisting and model coordinating.

Growing up in Fiji, beaches were Cornwall’s playground and Pixiekini was a natural progression for her inner pixie spirit combined with a love for the beach, crochet and bikinis.

Now based in Mellons Bay, Auckland, Cornwall shares images of ‘pixie mermaids’ in custom Pixiekini crochet bikinis and dreamy inspiration through Instagram and Facebook. Pixiekini’s customers are typically from New Zealand, Australia and Fiji. “Our amazing pixie mermaids, are those who love to adventure, meet by the sea and worship the sun,” said Cornwall.

Cotton for the crochet is sourced locally in New Zealand and Fiji. Pixiekini has many exciting plans for the future but as all creations are individual Cornwall wants to ensure quality over quantity. The first step is a website before looking to expand. For more information, please phone 09 5336334 or email pixiekini@gmail.com.

SMALL MEDIUM LARGE

SMALL Medium Large originally started as a blog on tumblr, a place where founder Cameron Price would post and reblog visuals he personally liked. With an architecture background, the blog has a lot of mixed imagery for inspiration. Price desired to start a small apparel brand and when his partner had a felt and leather wallet made for his 21st birthday, Price was motivated to start brainstorming and developed some of Small Medium Large’s first products. The brand name comes from a teaching technique Price picked up during architecture school. Lecturer Daniel K. Brown taught Price throughout the design process to always incorporate minor, intermediate and major elements into his designs. The process helps to achieve balanced, cohesive and fully explored designs.

Small Medium Large is simple and cleanly styled as a result. Often the look of each item is driven by the fabric or materials which have been sourced rather than an initial design. Price continually hunts through fabric stores for materials, even if he does not need fabric at the time, and leather is sourced from New Zealand suppliers. The label is in its small phase, trying to build an audience. “The internet is a gem for young brands, everyone is online these days so almost all our customer interactions are done online,” said Price. In the future the brand will continue to grow with the aim of being stocked in stores throughout New Zealand. For more information, email contactsmallmediumlarge@gmail.com.

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I 15

behindtrending colour the business

Renaissance

RESENE TURTLE GREEN A DETACHER

RESENE BREATHLESS DRIES VAN NOTEN

Rooted in 14th century Italy, the Renaissance still serves as a dense source of inspiration for the latest offering of designer goods.

I

N a time of dramatic self realisation, artistic legends Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo created works of art that have forever shaped the colour palette of the renaissance period. The development of oil painting changed the artistic trends of the time and introduced iconic shades of yellow and red, whilst experimenting with the existing selections of green, brown and black. What followed was a series of paintings that hold true to this very day.

16 I May 2015

RESENE ILLUSION ERDEM

RESENE RED OXIDE GIVENCHY

With a heavy focus on fur, Michael Kors translated a series of muted colours into a laid back unfussy range of looks. Kors kept true to brand in the treatment of fabrics, drawing together a range of inspiration from across the timeline in an almost retrospective look at American sportswear. The result was a slightly playful collection with undertones of seriousness to help ground each look. The floral print three quarter dress with double layered sleeve is an excellent example of how Kors takes various elements and effortlessly combines them into a cohesive look, mixing a print in a similar colour to Resene Nugget with a subtle yet present fur collar for the colder months.

Following with the trend of muted floral prints, Mary Katrantzou put forth a timeless offering that had elements drawn from Renaissance oil painting mixed with a

RESENE VERDUN GREEN GUCCI

RESENE ALASKA MARNI

contemporary colour palette. Similar in colour to Resene Blueprint the combination of navy and dull green offer up a sophisticated colour palette that speaks true to the brand.

The whole collection was inspired by horror vacui, the feat of empty spaces, which is what prompted the Victorians to cover every square inch of their environment.

Dries Van Noten took inspiration from a lighter Renaissance colour palette, experimenting with the power of off whites and blues, sharpened by the relatively bold choice of pink. Van Noten described the collection as “grounded glamour” and as such it featured a range of utterly functional to avant garde looks. The blue coat-dress similar in colour to Resene Breathless speaks to a more practical wearer, one who is comfortable to experiment with print, but expects the comfort of traditional cut clothing.

In an eye opening use of facial piercings and jewels, designer Riccardo Tisci treated

RESENE BLUEPRINT MARY KATRANTZOU

RESENE NUGGET MICHAEL KORS

the star studded Givenchy front row to a unique display of what was described as “Victorian-chola girl.” Velvet dévoré dresses spoke to the Victorian narrative with the somewhat outlandish and almost gothic use of facial piercings telling a whole new story of Tisci’s life. The deep red dress and coat in a similar colour to Resene Red Oxide has undertones of masculinity for a collection that was distinctly androgynous.

Colours available from RESENE COLORSHOPS www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363

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I 17

photoshoot

a matter of time GINGER SNAPS

VANISHING ELEPHANTS Oversized Shirt RES DENIM Sadie Overalls SOLSANA Ozi Heel FRONT COVER VANISHING ELEPHANTS Tank in Stripes STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB Jumpsuit SENSO Oscar I in Midnight Hi Shine

Photographer: Caitlan Mitchell Model: Ruby P at Unique Models Make Up: Grayson Coutts Assistant: Samantha O’Brien

Thanks to DSL Logistics

18 I May 2015

COCURATA Stripe Shirt MAURIE & EVE Lewis Pant SOLSANA Jordan Heel

MAURIE & EVE Shirt MAX Pinstripe Trousers in Navy

MAX Sleeveless Funnel Neck Tunic in Black VANISHING ELEPHANTS Easy Pant in Pinstripe SENSO Nile I in Ebony Matt Calf

MAX Pinstripe Trench Zip Dress in Navy

logistics

FIRST CLASS

Logistics are even more integral to the apparel industry with the increase of garment movement in New Zealand and worldwide.

Apparel reports how various logistics companies are upping their offerings to the apparel segment.

DSL DELIVERS

Leading third party logistics provider DSL Logistics is committed to quality service and garment presentation. DSL Logistics operates out of two buildings near Auckland Airport with about 10500 sq metres of space and close to 65 staff. Its dedicated garment processing facility with an in house steam tunnel houses a range of pressing and finishing machinery onsite to ensure quality presented garments arrive at the retailers’ door in pristine condition.

The Apparel team was impressed with DSL Logistics’ new warehouse when photographing the front cover of this issue. Specifically designed to keep hanging garments on the move, their rail system was efficient and effective. However, most impressive was the steam tunnel, one of only three in Auckland, which can tailor speed times to steam various material qualities.

Unique distribution and warehousing computer systems are fully integrated to provide smooth and efficient delivery, while Trackstock, written by one of DSL Logistics’ directors, is the main control system used. Trackstock clients can view live data from DSL Logistics’ website to monitor their shipments from start to finish. Reports of stock movements and stock

levels increase client’s control of their stock and their inwards and outwards shipments.

Third party logistics services are increasingly popular, saving companies from having capital tied to warehouse centres. “More and more companies are utilising third party logistics (3PL) services to look after their warehousing because it allows them to concentrate on their core functions. There are normally large savings in getting a 3PL to look after your warehousing. You just need to find one that is flexible and will work with you without having to

change all your normal in house procedures,” said John Widdows, a Director of DSL Logistics.

A sophisticated yet simple approach to freight forwarding and customs clearance stems from DSL Logistics’ attention to detail. For example, DSL Logistics’ unique software can attain customs clearance without hardcopy invoices for faster and more accurate customs entries and costings.

“We have a great relationship with DSL Logistics.

They are always responsive and we appreciate their support,” said John Kelly, CEO, Max Fashions.

Our clients tell us

THE ONLY ONE STOP TRANSPORT SOLUTION FOR THE FASHION INDUSTRY. • NZ Wide for Garments/ Textiles/ Footwear/ Jewellery/ Accessories/ Shop Fittings • Door to Door Hanging Service • Specialist Carriers and Couriers to Retail and Wholesale • Cartons/ Satchels/ Pallets/ Loose or Bulk shipments • Overnight Road/ Airfreight and 2-3 day services • Store Openings/ Closures/ Relocations/ Event Logistics • Store to Store Transfers/ Stock Consolidations/ Product Recall • Online Track and Trace, combined with time saving IT solutions • Unlike other Courier Service providers we offer no upfront cost to your business, all our tickets are Post Paid, NOT prepaid

20 I May 2015

“Apparel Line is the best carrier we deal with.”

Make life easier and ring us today.

You will notice a difference.

0800 275 463

Email: cservice@apparelline.co.nz www.apparelline.co.nz

advertorial

THE BUSINESS OF FASHION LOGISTICS All retailers and consumers expect garments and items to be in good condition and ready to wear when it arrives in the store, and with the introduction and the growth of e-commerce we have come to demand complete availability and delivery at times of our choosing.

The willingness for consumers to wait has reduced and expectation of instant product availability has risen. From this, it is obvious that the supply or logistics system that gets products from production through retailing to consumption has also needed to be altered.

This logistics transformation derives from cost and service requirements as well as consumer and retail change, and if not controlled effectively, elements of logistics are remarkably expensive.

Holding stock or inventory in your own warehouse just in case it is needed is a high cost activity, with not only the stock itself being expensive and might not sell or could become obsolete. In general, warehouses and distribution centres are expensive to build, operate and maintain as well as vehicles to transport goods between warehouses and shops are expensive, in terms of both capital and running costs.

Making sure that logistics are carried out effectively and efficiently, through the most appropriate allocation of resources along the supply chain becomes imperative.

With widespread use of information technology and systems, retailers can provide a better service to consumers, by appropriate integration of supply and demand meeting consumer requirements.

Having suitable logistics, retail garments and products are of a higher, presentable quality, could possibly be cheaper, and retailers could have far fewer instances of stock outs. A good logistics system can not only reduce costs but also improve service, providing a competitive advantage for the retailer.

Product availability is always a concern with retailers and logistics companies. Getting the right products to the right place at the right time is easier said than done and the amount of effort that has to go into a logistics supply system is more than meets the eye. Making logistics look easy, day in and day out, whilst reacting to sometimes-fickle consumer demand is what Fashion Logistics are well equipped in doing.

The family business, owned by Rod Limbrick and managed by son Gary, focuses predominantly on warehousing, distribution and logistics. Whatever the quantity or needs of client’s fashion garments or accessories, whether it is storage or distribution,

FASHION LOGISTICS

Number one fashion logistics company.

their business is built on. They constantly monitor data to ensure they are sweating the most from their products that take up valuable space on their shelves and pages (online), but crucially they are great at managing this and dropping under performing SKUs. It is important to find the right balance of variety to the customer and bottom line profitability for your business.

Outsourcing fulfillment with Fashion Logistics allows retail to allocate the costs of storing, picking and packing a product easily and efficiently.

Specialists in providing custom solutions, Fashion Logistics represents a great opportunity for many retailers and understands the needs

Fashion Logistics is the answer, providing a range of business and logistics solutions for fashion businesses, both retail and online.

The company employs experienced staff and offers a full range of picking, packing and consolidating of any kind of garment or accessory.

They are able to receive garments of any size, in any packaged condition, flat packed or hanging, and can even re-package, re-work and re-label any items, offering quality control and production inspection services.

Storage facilities for retailers are a common problem, but with Fashion Logistics, retailers and brands can hold stock on-site with the company, that is not only within close proximity to the airport, but also MAF compliant.

Whether a fashion retailer is selling large quantities of just a few garments, or have a catalogue stretching to several thousand, Fashion Logistics have solutions for your business.

There is no right number of SKUs to have in your business, but when it comes to storage and stock control, there is often a fine balance between looking at the big picture, and not seeing what is important in the details. Unfortunately too many businesses get it wrong and as a result waste a lot of time and money, something that can make a big difference in the world of multi-channel operations.

If a retailer carries more lines, they will need to keep more inventory, which equals more capital investment. If you were to assume a 10 per cent cost of capital, then the cost of holding $10,000 more stock is $1,000 a year. To justify the additional lines on this value alone, retailers would need to make an additional $1000 more profit after tax to break even. This might be $4,000-$10,000 in turnover for most businesses.

Fashion retailers also need more space for storage, and to invest more capital again in shelving and racking to hold it. The cost of storage can vary, and quickly gets expensive should retailers have their own warehouse.

Other costs include the overheads which are very hard to allocate as well as managing the inventory levels and production orders, managing more suppliers, time spent stock counting and time spent looking for items in storage all add up.

Large brands like international fashion house Topshop sell a broad product range and they are very good at managing the long tail, it is what

For more information or to see how you can save time and money, contact Rod at Fashion Logistics on 029 335 9745, or email fashionlogistics@xtra.co.nz.

• Pick and Pack to Store Level • MAF Compliant • Full Steam Tunneling and Pressing Service Available

• Scan Pack Compliant • Close to Auckland Airport

A GOOD LOGISTICS SYSTEM CAN NOT ONLY REDUCE COSTS BUT ALSO IMPROVE SERVICE, PROVIDING A COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE.

159 - 161 Stoddard Road, Mt Roskill, Auckland.

09 629 4540

- FASHION LOGISTICS of both traditional bricks-and-mortar and online retailers, and have the knowledge, experience and technology to save clients time and money.

Rod Limbrick started in the industry 45 years ago as a clothing manufacturer but with tough market conditions and changes in the industry, decided to restructure the business into a warehousing and distribution company targeted at the fashion industry. The company has now grown and developed into one of the most reputable and respected distribution providers to the industry.

email fashionlogistics@xtra.co.nz

logistics

ATTENTION TO DETAIL AT APPAREL LINE Carrier company Apparel Line was created by fashion industry insiders struggling to find the best transportation service for their company.

Specialising in hanging garment transportation and with a strong customer base, from small boutiques to large chain stores, Apparel Line’s commitment to service and quality sets it apart from its competitors.

Apparel Line prides itself on its daily communication with clients, this personal service is enhanced by a track and trace system. With tracking information available to clients 24/7, clarity and transparency is given to clients during Apparel Line’s proactive service. The team at David Pond works with Apparel Line because they are friendly, helpful and efficient.

“David Pond has been with Apparel Line for over six years. They go out of their way to be helpful and are always willing to explore options to meet any out of the norm requests.

Their processes are specifically tailored to the requirements of the rag trade, so Apparel Line ticks all the boxes for us,” said Victor Farry, Sales and Logistics, David Pond.

Max Fashions agrees that Apparel Line is accommodating and attentive. “Apparel Line provides a strong level of service and is always

NEED FOR SPEED AT NEW ZEALAND COURIERS

For over 50 years New Zealand Couriers has been helping Kiwis get their deliveries sorted.

With forward thinking and a ‘can do’ attitude New Zealand Couriers delivers innovative technology and customer focused business solutions. Business to business local deliveries across town are made in the same day and because business do not necessarily stop for the weekend, it can deliver to main centres on Saturday. Proud to serve the local communities it works in, New Zealand Couriers does not just deliver packages, it delivers reliability.

New Zealand Couriers hire over 1,100 staff and independent contractors across more than 22 branches and depots in 360 towns and cities around New Zealand, from Cape Reinga to Bluff. Regional day runs connect more than 1,000 towns and cities across the country. For international needs, New Zealand Couriers delivers to every major trading nation in the world in partnership with key global freight carriers.

22 I May 2015

willing to help,” said John Kelly, CEO, Max Fashions.

Apparel Line is changing industry perspectives, proving that the hidden costs in getting non-hanging stock on the floor outweighs any additional distribution costs of hanging freight. This does not go unnoticed by clients.

“Apparel Line is fantastic to work with.

The team consistently goes the extra mile to meet our needs, even as those needs continue to grow,” said Marty Jenkins, Back of House Manager, TOPSHOP TOPMAN. Owner of Apparel Line, Wendy Haresnape, said that the trend was opposite for many years, with many retailers moving to flat pack distribution simply because there was no one offering a complete hanging service in New Zealand.

“Many companies used to offer partially hung services only, as the bags would be picked up hanging, yet in depots and during transit they would move lying on the floor of trucks and vans. The garments arrived looking crumpled, even though they were paying for a hanging service,” said Haresnape.

There is now a growing trend for mid-priced garments to be transported hanging to cut down merchandising time.

With eight Apparel Line vehicles in Auckland, five in Wellington, three in Christchurch and a network of local distribution agents throughout the rest of New Zealand, Apparel Line’s cost effect yet tailored solutions are executed with style.

As Apparel Line grows, so have the services offered and this will continue in 2015 with a new service to be announced shortly.

NEW OFFICE AND WAREHOUSE FOR HELLMANN WORLDWIDE Hellmann Worldwide Logistics is moving into a new 12,500 square metre facility that will occupy a prominent site on the corner of George Bolt Memorial Drive and Landing Drive.

If you have been to or from the airport in the last couple of months you will have seen the construction underway.

Owners Jost and Klaus Hellmann have committed Hellmann to a globally high standard for excellence, quality, innovation and environmental care. This development ticks all the right boxes. Hellmann has provided freight and logistics services to many of New Zealand’s leading fashion companies for the last 25 years. The warehousing, international air and ocean logistics facility will incorporate environmentally friendly, energy efficient temperature controlled infrastructure that reinforces Hellmann’s commitment to many of New Zealand’s leading importers and exporters.

A FASHIONABLE PARTNERSHIP WITH DHL

There’s no disputing that DHL Express NZ knows its stuff when it comes to providing fast and reliable package handling for the fashion industry, but it’s the relationships they build along the way that distinguishes them even further.

One such relationship is with New Zealand’s iconic brand Trelise Cooper. It was back in 2001 when Cooper was launching a collection at New Zealand Fashion Week that Cooper’s team got to meet some of the people at DHL. “Right from the very beginning, our account manager Pip Cucksey ‘got’ our business. She understood that we are a premium brand, that our products have to arrive on time and in excellent condition. It seems quite straight forward, but not all industry players can provide this,” said Bryan Evans, Sales and Marketing Manager, Trelise Cooper.

DHL Express even went so far as pioneering the hanging garment rack for Trelise Cooper, so apparel

could be sent in perfect condition from New Zealand, direct to retailers overseas and straight onto the clothes racks. This has since become a regular offering for DHL customers in New Zealand.

“Plus it’s been the ongoing trust, integrity and professionalism from Cucksey and her team that makes the relationship work. All of which are core values of the Trelise Cooper Group,” added Bryan.

DHL Express NZ is one of the select few brand partners for Trelise Cooper, a small group of companies that come together for shared, mutual benefit.

“Every brand partner relationship is special to us and every agreement is bespoke. This reflects where we see value in what each other does, and DHL is a welcome part of our family of brand partners,” said Evans.

DHL Express NZ has an exclusive agreement with Trelise Cooper handling the shipping of all their New Zealand, Australian and online orders. “We see the online retail environment becoming more sophisticated and more technology driven,” said Bryan.

DHL is keeping up with the online trend and is about to upgrade its Auckland facility, linking all of New Zealand to a network of 220 countries and territories globally. The NZ$15.3 million investment, set to be completed in Q4 2015, will enable DHL Express to process inbound and outbound freight almost twice as fast, moving from approximately 2,400 shipments per hour to a staggering 4,000.

“That can only be good for us”, commented Evans.

“It will allow even more quality access to markets and it will underpin all the online activity that everyone is seeing.”

Contact us now to discuss your needs.

Phone: +64 9 255 2560 I Mobile: 021 769 560 Email: john@dsl.co.nz I www.dsl.co.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

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packaging

Wrap it up

4 THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN PRODUCING YOUR STORE BAG

More than a vehicle for carrying your products, retail bags are an advertisement for stores. It’s a promotional tool that conveys a message as it walks around the streets and is often re-used several times. Astrid Fisher from The Carrybag Company has some tips to make sure your store bag will work for you.

APPEARANCES are inherently important to the apparel industry and the packaging and presentation of customers’ purchases are not exempt to aesthetic demands. Apparel talks to leading packaging players to determine what is important now.

THEY ARE NATURALS

Pan Pacific Marketing dominates the gift wrapping and gift packaging industry in New Zealand. It offers the largest range of tissue suitable for the fashion retail industry with beautiful colour tones and patterns as well as specialising in giftwrap, ribbons, boxes, bags and embellishments.

“Store design is crucial but so is the presentation of the purchase made by the customer. Companies who present their product beautifully certainly ensure an incentive for the customer to return,” said Sharon Jackson, National Sales and Marketing Manager, Pan Pacific Marketing.

The success of Pan Pacific Marketing is attributed to its loyal customers and an unconditional importance placed on excellent service and quality products at an affordable price. Jackson will work exclusively with clients if they wish to achieve their own personal presentation style with unique products.

“It is underestimated just how important it is for the customer to leave the store feeling overjoyed with the presentation of their purchase, whether it is for a gift or for themselves,” said Jackson.

Pan Pacific Marketing believes in excellence and innovation and the team regularly travels to trade shows throughout the world, personally sourcing the very latest products and setting new trends.

Understanding that New Zealanders have their own sense of style, Pan Pacific Marketing notices that natural fibre products are particularly in vogue in New Zealand this season with hessian, twine, linen and cotton ribbons predominantly promoting this earthy look.

MAKE A MARK Finmark has been a proud importer of quality gift wrapping and ribbons from Sweden and Italy for over 30 years. Founded by owners Petter Carlmark and Allan Finlayson nearly 40 years ago, Finmark have a long history of supplying to the Australian

and Pacific markets and are now bringing its beautiful range to New Zealand.

Looking at all the gift wrapping wholesalers currently in New Zealand, it is no doubt New Zealanders love beautifully wrapped gifts.

Finmark sees similarities in the New Zealand and Scandinavian markets, where every shop gift wraps for their customers. Its premium quality and exquisite designs are an ideal fit.

A relatively recent addition to Finmark is their range of organic raffia ribbons from Italy in response to an increasing interest in raffia. With an extensive colour selection on offer, customers have a wide choice and can find a fit for their colour scheme.

Having exhibited in over 150 trade fairs in Australia as well as the US and Frankfurt, Finmark was a first time exhibitor at the Auckland Spring Fair in 2014. They look forward to returning to Auckland in 2015 for everyone to see their products first hand.

PACKAGING FOR PEOPLE

After 39 years at the familiar Parnell address, Attwood’s, The Packaging People, have moved their showroom to Morningside. A need was detected

by Atwood’s for a supplier in the city suburbs.

Customers now enjoy a more personal shopping experience in a convenient location. Experienced staff members Garry Anderson-King and Glenys Cowley show a range of paper, tape, boxes, string and bubblewrap with a reputation of having the ‘hard to get’.

1. On-Brand Consistency The look and feel of a bag sets the expectations of a potential customer. Is the message you are conveying with your bag consistent with the store’s offering? The material look, weight and finish, print design, handles, and other embellishments all contribute to the message. Consideration needs to be taken about the price point of the items going into each bag as the style of your bag should be kept in check with the value of its contents.

If you need to keep the price down without compromising the store’s brand, a snappy print design can do wonders for a relatively low-cost bag. You can also add a smaller, lighter weight bag to your range for lower cost accessory items. You can still make this bag feel ‘gifty’ with a ribbon or label closure.

2. Size is everything Custom-made bags generally have a minimum order quantity of at least 1000, so you should make sure the dimensions of the bag are exactly right for your products. Get samples of bags with various dimensions and try them out with your products and if you can, choose a size which will be useful for a range of products. Often when opening a new store, there are unknowns which make dimension decisions difficult.

Consider using a bag available off-the-shelf to begin with. That way you can order small quantities, and if you find the size is not quite right, you can make changes easily. Ask your supplier about screen printing a stock bag, or producing a label that can be used for multiple packaging purposes. Or consider using custom-printed tissue, which is not so size-dependent, and can also be used for online or postal orders.

3. Logistics What quantity of bags should you buy? A good rule of thumb is to aim for a quantity of bags that will likely last around 12 months. This way you can make any changes required as things may change in your business. Do you have space to store your bag stocks, or will you require your supplier to store and deliver to you as required? Most customised packaging is produced offshore, so consider production and shipping lead times.

More time is required if you need to see a full sample prior to production so allow a generous amount of time for making the decisions about your bag in order to meet deadlines.

4. Sales, Events and Pop-ups All the considerations about your bag’s brand image, size, price points and logistics apply for pop-up stores, sales and events such as store openings. But for these situations the parameters may be different – you may only need a small quantity of bags or you may be unsure of the quantity/size required. Utilising bags available off the shelf can be helpful here. Screen print or use labels if the brand is important. Some of our customers produce a lower cost branded bag for use at sale time or for their outlet stores, allowing them to get the branded message out using their bags, but at a price relative to product sale prices at that time.

Pan Pacific is your home of quality gift wrapping and packaging supplies.

09 527 3669 12A Homestead Drive Mount Wellington Auckland, New Zeland

www.giftwrapping.co.nz

24 I May 2015

POS

How can POS increase your profit?

In the last article we discussed what a POS system is and how it can help identify performing, or underperforming, staff and increase profit. Today we are talking real estate, and how to increase profit.

NO, not that cosy two bedroom fix-er-upper bungalow round the corner, but the real estate inside your store. As a retailer you need to make sure every square foot of floor area is making you money and ensure valuable space is not taken up with devalued stock.

Without a suitable POS reporting system, how will you know what stock is selling and what is just taking up space, what to order more of, what to discontinue and is that trestle table in the entrance covered in last season’s discounted fashion really the best use of valuable real estate? If you move items within your store, does it make a difference?

To find out, map your floor plan and assess the results. Does your storefront invite people in or create a roadblock of browsing foot traffic, clogging access for other potential customers who give up and move on? A comprehensive, tailored POS system will identify what stock is moving. Combine that with integrated and easy to use online sales and dead stock can disappear from the shop floor, along with the trestle table, and be replaced with items that will increase revenue.

Fill your best space with the latest fashion trends that you know will sell and consign the clearance items where they belong, being sold online. Every store can have easy to use online sales, with the right POS. A good POS with multi channel online sales will also assist with stock control. When an item sells online, it will automatically update your inventory so you’ll be able to tell at a glance how many items still remain by style, colour or brand.

One of the most valuable pieces of real estate in the whole store, apart from the shop window, is the counter. Not only is it where transactions take place, it’s where you have the last point of contact with your customer so you want it to

From the Advance Equipment Supplies Team

leave a lasting impression, for the right reasons.

How much of this space is cluttered with a big clunky cash register or eftpos terminal? Why not put these on stands or poles with the cash drawer under the counter, it not only saves space, it’s out of sight and more secure. This frees up space for more productive activities, such as selling add-ons, displaying impulse buys, wrapping and folding that ensure the customer feels good, not processed.

Impulse buys increases spend per customer and can be tracked over time with your POS reports.

Without a suitable POS reporting system, how will you know what stock is selling and what is just taking up space, what to order more of, what to discontinue and is that trestle table in the entrance covered in last season’s discounted fashion really the best use of valuable real estate?

Make the space work for you and your customers for faster throughput of sales and professional service that will have customers not only coming back, but telling their friends. For stores that want to track their stock and assess the effects of changes in-store as well as move into the online domain, we recommend Intelligent Retail’s ‘Connect’.

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apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 25

+ size feature

s u l P y t i Positiv

OVER the last decade a host of body confidence campaigns have visualised a new wave of lucrative consumers. In particular, Dove’s Real Beauty campaign, launched by Unilever in 2004, portrayed beauty in many shapes and sizes and stirred the fashion and beauty industry to no longer ignore the end consumer in her full variety. Within this movement, plus-size female fashion has been identified as a profit potential, yet many brands are slow to take up this opportunity.

Luxury Italian label, Marina Rinaldi is part of the Max Mara Group and is known as the first and only luxury plus-size retailer. Over the last three decades Marina Rinaldi has changed plus-size perspectives while achieving overwhelming turnover, including $182 million in 2013.

Two million Marina Rinaldi items are sold per year in over 200 designer stores via 700 wholesale accounts. These are positive yet extremely rare proportions in the plus-size market.

Middle-range plus-size e-tailer, Navabi, stocks over 130 brands with garments priced from $30-$1,000 and has tripled its revenue since its 2009 launch.

Navabi’s team of 150 trade in 30 countries and in January Navabi announced a $28 million funding round, led by Bauer Venture Partners. Likewise, budget plus size e-tailer Eloquii has increased revenues by 100 percent per quarter.

Its products have a price peak of $200 and in December 2014 it secured a $6 million Series A round investment led by Greycroft Partners. Investments are building, and paying off in the international plus-size market.

Founders of Navabi, Zahir Dehnadi and Bahman Nedaei, relate the plus-size market to a ‘big black box’ due to the lack of data available for this market.

Dehnadi and Nedaei decided to communicate with consumers directly and discovered that plus-size consumers want frequent fashion. Navabi now adds new styles to its website every other day.

Vocal consumers also saved Eloquii. Closed by its parent company, The Limited, Eloquii quickly reopened when the company received an influx of online messages from devastated consumers missing the plus-size brand they familiarised to trend

26 I May 2015

Over the last three decades Marina Rinaldi has changed plus-size perspectives while achieving overwhelming turnover, including $182 million in 2013.

based retailers such as Zara. Eloquii subsequently strengthened their digital marketing strategy, having learnt that this was a powerful way to reach its target.

Bold body confidence styles, such as crop tops, are Eloquii’s top sellers. Full time New Zealand blogger for size 14 and above clothing, Meagan Kerr, recognises this trend in New Zelaland.

“Plus-size fashion blogging is relatively niche in New Zealand and I am recognised as an influential blogger in this field. I’ve had a lot of plus-size women telling me that they would like to be able to buy things like crop tops, bikinis, and bodycon dresses in New Zealand. If we want to wear these styles, our best bet is to shop overseas. My readers want to be able to wear the same fashion forward styles as their straight-size friends, but designed with the plus size body in mind.”

However, the trap for plus-size retailers, such as the declining British online brand N Brown, is a tendency to merely increase the proportions of other garments and not consider the change in plus-size form.

Creating plus-size clothing can be more complex and more expensive but it can pay off when there are so many plus-size consumers searching for equal quality from conception. Marina Rinaldi’s design team and pattern-making department are comprised of 40 staff each and start the design process with a UK size 16 model to refocus on technical aspects and ensure that the garments fit a plus-size figure.

Locally, Caroline Marr, owner of The Carpenters Daughter (TCD) knows the plus-size design process is very similar to straight-size, expect for the obvious additons. “Yes, it is more expensive. There is more fabric, more time needed to sew, more everything that’s why it is called plus,” said Marr.

However, as market research firm Mintel’s has found, size availability is the most sought after brand offering and changing demographics such as disposable income and the ageing population will also affect the increasing need for larger sized clothing.

When online retailer ModCloth decided to design and manufacture its own plus-size line to encourage the other labels it stocks to follow, its sales doubled year on year.

Through third party research, Modcloth found

that styles in a full range of sizes sell around 20 percent more units and customers who buy sizes 16 and above place 20 percent more orders than the average consumer. These customers are also 66 percent more likely to spread positive feedback about their purchases on social media.

With the increased media coverage of plus-size fashion a rack at the back corner of a store no longer suffices. The archetype plus-size store is Marina Rinaldi’s London flagship. In the spacious, highceiling store clothing rails are taller and thicker than usual and spaced apart to balance the garments’ extra shape.

Mintel has found that the larger a consumer’s clothing size, the less likely they are to try on an outfit before buying. This is indicative of the discomfort and embarrassment that plus-size consumers feel about the physical retail environment. Marina Rinaldi changing rooms are whole rooms in its store converted from a residential building, to help clients relax in a private atmosphere.

“Very often we have customers who don’t have a very positive self-image,” said Lynne Webber, managing director, Marina Rinaldi.

Staff at Marina Rinaldi are patient and treat customers like family, with extra service such as complimentary high-teas, to boost confidence.

An ongoing issue in the plus-size market is whether the media buzz around the industry helps or hinders customer engagement as women do not want to talk about their weight on a daily basis.

There is contention with the very term ‘plus-size’.

Reality TV star from The Biggest Looser AU, Ajay Rochester, is gaining momentum with a campaign aimed at banning the term as she believes it further dictates what a normal body should look like.

However as Kerr explained; “When I hear that a brand makes plus-sizes, this attracts my attention for two main reasons.

The first is that if they’re owning that label then, hopefully, they have invested time and research into ensuring that their garments are designed for plus size bodies. The second reason is that sizing is not standardised in the fashion industry, I know I am more likely to fit clothes from a plus-size brand.”

Marr of TCD agreed that the term is useful. “I use ‘plus-size’ as the world knows and understands. It is not my chosen descriptive word, but it makes sense.” said Marr.

Marina Rinaldi has changed tact in their marketing campaigns and now do not mention size in any of its interactions. By steering clear of plus-size consumer assumptions and treating customers as individuals, not a social movement, plus size brands are left to ride on their own creative quality.

Designers, such as Jean Paul Gaultier, are inspired by a woman, not her size. Gaultier’s noticeable catwalks with appearances from plus-size super models, such as Ashley Graham of IMG Models, demonstrate this.

“We treat each of these women as an individual, rather than a separate plus-size division, which has opened the door to major opportunities with editors, casting directors and brands,” said Ivan Bart, president of IMG Models.

Tracie Patel, director, Monarch Models recognises a steady increase in demand for real size models in New Zealand as well. “We are in regular contact with labels wanting real size girls who are tall, in stunningly good shape and great proportions in a size 12 - 14 to market to real size and older women they are designing for,” said Patel.

The fashion industry has the opportunity to inspire and lead an increased focus on individuality.

Unfortunately, potential for the male plus-size market has not been documented, mainly for the political reason that male bodies are not as widely discussed as female bodies. However, we can assume that the potential in this market is just as vast.

Fashion brands need to take advantage of the slow plus-size uptake by larger brands and retailers, such as Zara and Topshop, who dominate the straight-size market yet are noticeably silent on the plus-size topic.

By engaging directly with plus-size consumers smaller brands can grow and the need for trendy, yet flattering plus-size fashion, will be fulfilled.

Words by: Jessica-Belle Greer

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 27

editd

2 become 1: Is It Smart for Marc Jacobs to Fold Its Diffusion Line?

By Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITD

A note on abbreviations in this post: to cut down the number of times we type ‘Marc’, we’ll be referring to the brand Marc Jacobs as MJ, and Marc by Marc Jacobs as MbMJ. Just so you know!

LAST month Marc Jacobs announced Marc by Marc Jacobs would be merging with its signature Marc Jacobs line. The sudden demise of one of the world’s most popular diffusion lines left an obvious question: why?

Is it that 2010’s generally accepted wisdom, that diffusion lines are a great way to get through austerity, has aged into irrelevancy? The premium market, where MbMJ sits, certainly filled out in that time. Just look at J.Crew, Whistles and Diesel. Or is it that social media has sufficiently chipped away at fashion’s insiders-only facade? These days consumers are incredibly clued in, they want the brand image they see online, offline. No filter.

Team Marc Jacobs is saying MbMJ will be absorbed into the mainline to create “a more aesthetically cohesive range of merchandise and price points”. So we asked ourselves, does EDITD data support that strategy?

Sizing it up

In order to figure out just how mammoth this merger is, we first looked at the size of both lines. Marc Jacobs currently has 677 MJ products and 1,101 MbMJ products online. Similarly, global retailers stock 18,223 MbMJ products and 4,435 MJ products. A deviation from Michael Kors, Derek Lam and Versace, where the mainline brand outweighs the diffusion.

Looking at some specific retailers: Yoox carries 129% more MbMJ products than MJ products. Farfetch carries 406% more MbMJ than MJ. Bloomingdale’s and Neiman Marcus are among the world’s top stockists of MbMJ products, yet they carry 96% less MJ. Will merging the two lines lure existing stockists into the higher ranges of MJ pricing? Or by contrast, confound current stockists of MbMJ? In either case, it’s clear retailers are stocking and people are buying. Why back away?

Marc Jacob’s unusual price architecture

“Newness at MbMJ attracts attention to the brand ahead of the mainline collection arriving into store.”

LURING CONSUMERS: communication and newness

Maybe Marc Jacobs sees both customer sets as one?

After all, since Fall 2014 they’ve been sending them the same emails. One thing the brand has consistently gained from the MbMJ line is the ability to pique interest with new in-store product ahead of the luxury collection. As seen in the chart below, the diffusion line sees high levels of newness in September and October, when MJ newness is low. This is a good way to lure spend in an otherwise dead spell.

Even without a diffusion line, the brand could find future relief in one-off mass market collaborations that

28 I May 2015

pay out and require no cash investment.

MbMJ is not exactly crying out to be axed. So why do such a thing? There’s speculation that streamlining, plus Marc Jacobs’ resignation at Louis Vuitton, indicate the brand is about to launch an IPO. If true, that might partially account for it.

Public offering or not, consumers can probably expect the experience at a combined Marc Jacobs to be very similar to MJ + MbMJ. One cohesive brand, with clever ways to reach the right shoppers and more flexibility around pricing.

Understandably, the MbMJ line is pretty bottomheavy. But it’s not entirely focused on lower-end price points. In fact, there are more MbMJ products priced from $500 to $600 than over at MJ. That differs from other brands’ diffusions at the $500-600 price point: Michael Kors has 20 times as many; Derek Lam seven times its diffusion 10 Crosby; Versace eight times its diffusion Versus.

The median price point at MJ is $389 and $188 at MbMJ. But the mainline has more discounting than the diffusion line – 42% at MJ compared to 35% at MbMJ. On average it takes a MJ product 60 days to sell out and 87 days at MbMJ. Conclusion: MJ products sell out faster and are discounted sooner.

MbMJ offers the brand more consistency.

The unusual price structure of MbMJ, and a clear overlap in product (take this $458 bag and this $2,600 bag), might make for an easy absorption into the MJ line. As MbMJ bridges premium and luxury price points, it won’t drag MJ’s value down as a merged entity.

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