Apparel Magazine // May 2016

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MAY 2016 I VOL 49 I NO 5

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NEWS MENSWEAR NEWS BUSINESS PROFILE TRENDWATCH RETAIL EYE

FASHIONABLE

EDITOR’S letter

READS

Valentino Sandal

COPY CATS

Shortly after Nicolas Ghesquiere joining the luxury fashion house of Louis Vuitton, his shrunken version of the travel trunk, the Petite Malle bags, became hot property in the world of fashion. So much so, that the bags were replicated by fashion brands all over the world. Not only did BCBG Max Azria and Sam Elderman create their own versions of the petite sized trunk, but also the likes of Aspinal of London, Mark Cross and House of Holland. Could this be considered a compliment, a simple adaptation or interpretation?

After all imitation is the highest form of flattery. Or is part of a bigger problem under the intellectual property umbrella? The original design of the trunk in question isn’t unique to Louis Vuitton however, trunks have been made for thousands of years by the Chinese and the most common trunk styles seen today date back to the 18th century.

Thirty years ago, journalist Michael Gross wrote an article for the New York Times regarding the garmentindustry knockoff and the prevalence of the cheaper copy of an expensive design. The story centred on a cabbage rose sweater that was shown by English design house Crolla in early 1984. That March, Jean Paul Gaultier showed an oversized, hand embroided sweater.

Shortly after that an employee at American knitwear manufacturer Berek sent a photo of the French designers sweater to Uruguay to have it duplicated.

American designer Adrienne Vittadini clearly also had

Yvonne Bennetti Italia Shoe

taken a liking to this particular garment with it showing up in her collection in the spring of 1985.

A marketing director at Gaultier told Gross that knock-offs ‘popularise the look’. “When they want the real thing, they know where to get it.” Outlander, a division of American brand Leslie Fay made a US$60 version of the said sweater and sold about 500 dozen in three or four styles. Vice president for the company told Gross that you would have to be stupid to close your eyes to what is happening on the runway.

No apparel garment is left unturned in the quest for similarity to cash in on the popularity of the designs. It doesn’t just happen overseas either. I was disappointed to see similar styles of top luxury brands replicated by New Zealand designers. Take for example the Valentino Rockstud Sandal and New Zealand designer Yvonne Bennetti’s Italia Shoe. Now you tell me – what came first the chicken or the egg?

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

ON THE COVER:

the NUMBERS . . .

On average, 120 million pairs of Nike shoes are sold each year.

Per capita, Australians are the biggest purchasers of apparel, spending $1050 per annum.

PUBLISHER Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com EDITOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Thomas Fowler - tommie@reviewmags.com

Monique McKenzie - monique@reviewmags.com Rossella Quaranta - rossella@reviewmags.com

ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DESIGNER

Josie McKeefry - josie@reviewmags.com

2 I May 2016

The annual global fashion retail revenue is on average US$1.2trillion.

Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com

There have been over 11 million Apple Watches sold worldwide.

DESIGN ASSISTANTS Marggie Pascua, Hannah Sames PHOTOGRAPHER Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com ADMINISTRATION MANAGER Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.

AUDREY AND GIVENCHY: A Fashion Love Affair

By CINDY DE LA HOZ It all began in the early 1950s, two legendary individuals who worked together to show some of the most iconic looks.

Audrey and Givenchy is a celebration of their work both onscreen and off, looking into classic moments including Sabrina, Breakfast at Tiffany’s, Charade, How to Steal a Million and Funny Face. The book covers the pair’s work off screen as well, showcasing in detail the awards and red carpet moments the two shared.

MANUS X MACHINA: Fashion in an Age of Technology

By ANDREW BOLTON Falling in line with the theme of this year’s Met Gala, Andrew Bolton takes the reader on the complex relationship between fashion and machinery. The book looks in detail at one-ofa-kind haute couture works in comparison with new technologies geared towards the fashion industry. 3D printing, laser cutting and computer programmed weaving are some of the technologies explored, looking at the oppositional relationship of mass production and hand-crafted fashion.

REIGNING MEN: Fashion In Menswear 1715 – 2015

By SHARON SADAKO TAKEDA, KAYE DURLAND SPILKER & CLARISSA M. ESGUERRA This hardcover, fully illustrated bible of fashion depicts a comprehensive collection of menswear spanning over three centuries. Takeda, Spilker and Esguerra trace the history of mens fashion since the 18th century, during a time when young Englishmen imitated foreign dress, moving on to the dandy’s of the 19th century, Savile Row, post-WWII mod, and the 21st century man.

THE LONGEVITY BOOK: The Science of Aging, the Biology of Strength, and the Privilege of Time

By CAMERON DIAZ & SANDRA BARK As a follow up to her #1 bestsellter, The Body Book, Diaz has released another personal, practical and authoritative guide examining the art and science of aging. The Longevity Book looks at, in detail, how young women can make better-informed choices about their bodies and health, encouraging them to look beyond the trends to understand how the body works at a cellular level. Diaz takes the reader on a journey, looking at history, biology, neuroscience and the women’s health movement in order to draw and understand as much as possible about growing old.

C H A R L E S PA R S O N S FA S H I O N FA B R I C S AUTUMN / WINTER 2017

Book an appointment to see the range.

NZ toll-free: 0508 327 446 Tel: +64 9 969 7300 fashion@charlesparsons.co.nz www.charlesparsonsfashion.com

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MANAGING THE CASH FLOW

SHINE BRIGHT AT FASHION WEEK

Finalists of this year’s Brother Design Stars will feature in the inaugural New Zealand Fashion Week Graduate Show supported by Brother.

Now in its third year, Brother Design Stars encourages students in school years 7 to 13 to enter one of two award categories, fashion or craft, for their chance to win thousands of dollars’ worth of prizes and money-can’t-buy experiences. “ We’ve seen first-hand the incredible talent that exists right throughout the country, and we’re excited to applaud this talent on a global stage. As well as this, give future designers a taste of what it’s like to be part of the fashion industry,” said Emma Crossett, general manager of marketing for Brother International (NZ). Last year’s supreme winning entry by Ellie Goldfinch, is currently being reproduced, with credit to Ellie, as part of a COOP by Trelise Cooper collection set to be released later this year.

ROWLAND PASSES

Long time production manager of High Society and earlier Society Fashions, Rowland Louis Smith, passed on earlier this month.

Rowland had been with the company for 32 years and was well known as one of the best production executives in the fashion industry. He was an industry icon who was best known for producing the highest quality and earned a reputation as a rag trade gentleman.

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Managing cash flow can be a tricky beast, with no two companies being the same. Having a steady cash flow requires some ingredients such as supplier payment terms, your client credit terms, credit management skills and having appropriate funding facilities that need to be used in the right mixture to end up a success.

Clients may be able to manage one or two of these, according to Lock Finance, who have been helping clients nationwide to grow since 1889.

“Managing just one or two of these may improve your cash flow, but some businesses do not have the option to decide when they pay their supplier, such as overseas vendors who require payment upon order placement, or dictate short payment terms to larger clients, for example, trying this with larger retail chains is tough,” said Craig Brown, general manager of lending.

Therefore, some businesses need to consider what their options are.

Even if you or your team has good credit management skills if you cannot

influence the terms significantly you will still need to look at financing options.

“Great if you want to use the equity in your home, then the banks will typically jump at helping you, but if you don’t have that equity then your options are reduced but you still do have alternative options.”

It is often forgotten that invoices can be used as security for a cash flow facility and that if you have firm indent orders, then they can also be used as a guarantee of a cash flow facility.

The team at Lock Finance can finance your invoices and also provide an import facility to fund indent orders that allow your business to operate smoothly. If your orders and sales are increasing then with Lock Finance your funding increasing also.

Lock Finance has been financing business in the apparel manufacturing and import/wholesaling industry for many years. For more information contact Craig Brown, 09 375 8502 or craig@lockfinance.co.nz.

ETHICAL CORPORATE CLOTHING

Two Christchurch girls have taken home first prize at the inaugural 2016 #MyBizQuest competition for their brand, Little Yellow Bird. Samantha Jones and Hannah Duder won a $10,000 business-mentoring package to help develop their brand of ethical corporate apparel. The pair sells corporate clothing to local businesses and at the same time empower vulnerable women by providing work across the entire supply chain. “Both Hannah and Samantha have worked hard to start LYB, they have great ambition and with the help of the #MyBizQuest programme, their business can continue to grow and prosper,” said Stephen Mansfield, CEO, Quest Apartment Hotels.

Quest Apartment Hotels established the competition to identify New Zealand start-up businesses that would benefit from financial backing and expert advice, encouraging New Zealand entrepreneurs and supporting business expansion

“There is currently no uniform company in New Zealand promoting ethical practice with a transparent process and supply chain. LYB offers easy corporate social responsibility for businesses – our products are completely customizable at no additional cost to the customer,” said Duder. LYB will work with Quest over the next year to develop the business and educate customers on the process of ethical manufacturing.

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APOLOGIES FROM GUCCI

Following heavy criticism, Gucci has apologised for warning Hong Kong shops not to sell paper offerings for the deceased that resembled the brand’s luxury products. The parent company, Kering, said in a statement that it regretted any misunderstanding from the letters, sent to six shops across Hong Kong.

“Kering and Gucci would like to reiterate their utmost respect with regards to the funeral context.”

It is customary in Hong Kong and some parts of Asia to burn paper offering at funerals and during gravesweeping festivals for deceased relatives to use in the afterlife. Stores offer a range of paper offerings that

CREATIVE REINVENTION

With nearly 20 vacant stores and a food court that housed only Dunkin’ Donuts, the Steeplegate Mall, in the United States has turned to alternative tenants to fill the once-bustling mall.

A child’s amusement centre and a theatre specialising in magic shows and burlesque dancers are two of the most recent tenants to take up occupancy in the downtown Concord Mall. The alternative tenants are part of a national trend that has seen various old malls begin to reinvent themselves in the midst of a physical retail decline.

“One of the things the public are craving is live experiences, so doing theatre in a mall is a natural transition. I think there are other people at malls all around the United States looking to say, ‘how can we use these spaces in creative ways?’ We have a great big space that is already suited for our needs here,” said Andrew Pinard, founder, Hatbox Theatre.

Other malls have caught on with the Burlington Town Centre in Vermont proposing a $200million renovation to include 200 units of housing and a university space alongside its shops. Moorestown Mall in New Jersey transformed itself when voters overturned the century-old liquor ban allowing for high-profile restaurants to open in the area, alongside a new state-of-the-art movie theatre.

“Shopping centres and the physical retail experience is becoming much more experiential. People want to have experiences when they go out. They want to experience restaurants. They want movie theatres.

They want that kind of all-in aspect,” said Tom McGee, president, International Council of Shopping Centres.

WORKING OUT THE CAPITAL SOLUTION

Despite invoice finance only recently becoming popular in New Zealand, it is the oldest and most prevalent form of business funding used throughout the world. With invoice finance debtors on a company’s balance sheet being converted to cash and paid to a company in the form of a flexible overdraft. The debtors of the comp repay the overdraft and new funds are redrawn as new invoices are produced. Invoice finance can convert your business to a cash business and provides the precious cash flow your business needs for growth.

Trillions of dollars are funded using invoice finance throughout the world annually and it begs the question, why would you not give your business the added cash advantage of invoice finance or a factoring facility?

Reasons behind choosing invoice finance could be because funding is based on your sales, and is not a fixed limited that must be reviewed continually, your debtors are the security and there is no requirement for external property security, and you can use invoice finance on top of your other borrowing facilities.

Working Capital Solutions is a locally owned business financier based in Auckland. They are a specialist invoice financier offering the full suite of invoice finance products from the purchase of single invoices to large undisclosed invoice finance facilities.

include “hell money”, mansions, iPhones, cars and designer handbags.

“Our management team have had considerable experience in this area and are dedicated to the continual supply of our professional and dynamic invoice finance products with the support of New Zealand companies,” said Victoria Bernecker.

“We have developed cutting edge invoice finance software and platforms that are currently unmatched in New Zealand. Our systems allow us to manage our client’s needs efficiently, creating transparency through our electronic reporting regime and online client interface.”

Although building a successful business is one of the most meaningful and rewarding adventures a persona can have it is also the loneliest, challenging and testing journey a business owner will go on. Most small business fail, but when they do succeed, they become and enduring expression of the founders’ vision.

Working Capital Solutions understand the unique difficulties a business owner will have, and respect their struggle and celebrate their success.

Traditional finance companies tend to overlook the smaller businesses, although 90 percent of New Zealand businesses fit into this category, turning over less than a million dollars and employing less than five people.

“We are proud of the personal service that we can provide to small businesses and are in the business of assisting small enterprise with its funding requirements.”

For more information contact Working Capital Solutions on 0800 386 382 or info@workingcapital.co.nz.

Is your business strategy for growth being held back? …no need to bet the house* Lock Finance is New Zealand’s leading independent and business finance company offering a fully integrated combination of trade finance, working capital, debtor finance and factoring since 1889.

*House mortgage security not normally required

Freephone 0800 ASK LOCK (0800 275 562) lockfinance.co.nz LOC 0287 05/16

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DON’T PUT YOUR HOME ON THE LINE

Debtor finance is, quite simply, a dynamic line of credit linked to and secured by your accounts receivable. If your business supplies products or services to other firms on standard trade credit terms, then Scottish Pacific can help.

Debtor finance has several advantages over traditional funding sources. With funding against the accounts receivable the facilities are designed to grow in line with the business, allowing businesses to grow and prosper without cash flow restraints limiting their expansion. Unlike traditional funding options debtor finance does not require real estate security, allowing those without brick and mortar assets to borrow for the business, against their business. Debtor finance also has the option to come coupled with a debtor administration service, designed to improve debt turn and lower interest costs through ensuring prompt payment by debtors.

Manufacturers, wholesalers and distributors within the fashion industry are well positioned to benefit from the use of a debtor finance facility. With high lead times common in the industry cash flow is often stressed and business growth restricted as result. Debtor finance facilities can bridge this gap, often providing business funding 60 to 80 days earlier than business owners would expect without a facility.

In a nutshell, a debtor finance facility works by the business generating sales and invoicing their customer as normal. A copy of this invoice is then sent to Scottish Pacific who provide up to 80 percent funding of that invoice overnight.

When the debtor pays, Scottish Pacific returns the remaining 20% of the invoice less fees.

An analogy to better understand the process would be an example of the shirt wholesaler.

Without Scottish Pacific Business Finance a business owner buys a shirt for $20. They then sell the shirt for $50. The business then has to wait for payment to buy another shirt to on sell.

With Scottish Pacific Business Finance, a business owner can buy a shirt for $20, sell the shirt for $50, but rather than wait to get paid, receive $40 the next day, allowing the business owner to buy two more shirts and grow the business.

For more information contact Scottish Pacific Business Finance on 0800 72 68 72 or visit www.scottishpacific.com.

SHIRTMAKER IN LIQUIDATION Shirtmaker Nicholas Jermyn has announced that it has been placed into voluntary liquidation. PWC have been appointed Administrators. Currently, the Wellington and Botany Town Centre stores will be closing while others remain open for business as well as the online shopping channel.

“This was a difficult decision but one which presents us with the best opportunity to recover from a sustained period of challenging

trading,” said Nick Harris, managing director and founder. “The challenges were due to growth in international online purchasing from New Zealand and our inability to successfully negotiate lease exits for a small number of our least successful stores.

Our staff have been fully briefed. Like us, they are determined to roll up their sleeves, focus on our customers and in doing so position us for future success.”

SLOW GROWTH FOR DUTY-FREE AND TRAVEL RETAIL At the 21st Duty-Free and Travel Retail Asia Pacific Summit, latest data from two of the industry’s leading research organisations suggested that the fragrances and cosmetics sector has something to look forward to. President of the TFWA Erik Juul-Mortensen unveiled new data from travel retail specialists Generation Research that showed that in 2015, for the first time since 2009, global duty-free and travel retail sales fell. According to preliminary figures, sales in 2015 totalled US$62 billion, a 2.3 percent loss on the previous year.

However, while sales had declined in all other dutyfree and travel retail categories, ranging from wine and spirits to tobacco, fashion or confectionery, in fragrances and cosmetics they had increased by 2.3 percent to US$19.5 billion. And that is not the only good news for the industry. In Asia Pacific, sales had grown by a very healthy 18.3 percent to a substantial US$9.5 billion, making it the fastest growing category.

In the burgeoning off-airport duty-free sector the lead of the group is similarly noteworthy. Dutyfree shopping away from the roar of the jet engine is a phenomenon that is growing at a dramatic rate, and, according to new data, now accounts for an impressive 44.6 percent of duty-free sales in Asia Pacific. While wine and spirits were the third largest category and those of fashion and accessories were

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17 percent, the lion’s share of this potentially lucrative business is in fragrances and cosmetics, taking a very significant 40 percent of all sales.

The first benefits of shopping at downtown dutyfree compared to the airport was the convenience alongside the good use of time, which were both cited by 43 percent of those surveyed by research company m1nd-set. The second and third reasons for choosing to shop downtown were the presence of leading brands and the wide choice. Attractive prices were however named as an advantage, but the quest for a bargain is not central to the proposition.

The Brand for Fashion & Lifestyle: Fashion is all about having your fingers on the pulse in a fast moving industry. That’s why we are the logistics choice for over 40 of the world’s top 100 brands. We provide flexible customised supply chain solutions the suit the specific needs of our customers.

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US MAKES BID FOR PAC BRANDS

MORE THAN A PERSONAL SHOPPER

• Improve your cash flow • Grow your business • Remove the requirement to use the family home as security • Access facilities that grow in line with business revenues • Increase your buying power at home and overseas • Make the buying and hiring decisions you want to make today, not tomorrow.

Talk to a Business Finance specialist today. Call 0800 72 68 72 or visit our website at scottishpacific.com

DEBTOR FINAN CE L AND E LOW

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T HIR D PA RT

RANKED

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For more than ten years, the image training industry has seen a specialisation emerge that combines both image consultancy and personal styling with powerfully transformative methods and tools of life coaching. Style Coaching is a company that captures this magical essence and features all the essential skills from the fields of personal shopping and even personal branding. The company focuses on a holistic process that embraces the ‘whole’ person, inside and out.

Their Style Coaches have been professionally trained to be able to help others to enhance and embrace their physical appearance so that it harmonises with their personality and the messages they would like to express. They also help others to ‘love the skin they’re in’ through an understanding of self-image psychology.

A uniquely layered approached is used where Style Coaches look at topics like body shape analysis,

style personalities, colour characteristics, wardrobe makeovers and other aspects of the ‘appearance’.

Analysis of the topics merge and intertwine how the appearance interrelates with the emotional states people may experience on a daily basis.

From this, a person’s confidence, enthusiasm, motivation, inspiration and excitements can be used to see the effect that these emotions have on appearance. In looking at the bigger picture the daily emotions outline a bigger picture for relationships, career, finances, health and wellbeing, environment and someone’s goals and aspirations.

Appearance may be used as a starting point for a massive change process and can offer an incredible catalyst for Style Coaches who can nurture and maximise a person’s potential.

Style Coaching’s ground-breaking training courses have been studied in more countries than any other image-training course in the world.

Margarita Politis has a diploma in fashion design and has more than ten years experience as a style coach.

She also holds the franchise for the New Zealand and Australia for Style Coaching. If you would like more information, contact Margarita on 0800 111 505, email info@margaritapolitis.co.nz or visit www. stylecoachinginstitute.com.

A Scottish Pacific facility can:

L E N DE R S

Wellington businesses are set to benefit from the expected $30million boost in local spend during the World of Wearable Arts Awards. Following on the success of last year’s awards, organisers have added performance to the WOW season which runs from September 22 to October 9. “We have responded to the increasing demand for tickets by adding one more performance into the final week of the WOW season,” said Gisella Carr, chief executive, World of Wearable Arts. The Wellington Chair of council’s economic growth and arts committee, Jo Coughlan said the 2016 events worth to the city will likely reach $30 million, almost four times that of 2005 when the show first arrived in the city.

Don Wearing from Mischief Shoes said the event attracted shoppers to the city, and businesses should adjust opening hours to accommodate them. “They want to give you their money,” said Wearing Chris Wilkinson, managing director, First Retail Group said for some businesses the season is more important than Christmas, especially for fashion retailers.

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LOCAL ECONOMY BOOST

Three decades of glamorous fashion was on show at Auckland’s heritage property, Alberton, showcasing the personal wardrobe of dressmaker Margarie Hall.

Two parades accompanied by live jazz music and commentated by Hall’s niece, Margot O’Meara took place May 15, telling the story of Margarie Hall through her impeccable taste in fashion throughout her life.

“She was an outstanding example of a New Zealand woman who, due to geographical isolation, had to copy designs from magazines and make garments herself to keep up with developing trends in fashion overseas,” said O’Meara.

After representing New Zealand in swimming at the 1932 Los Angeles Olympics, Hall went on to train as a dressmaker at the Elam School of Fine Arts before moving to Sydney to work as a cutter and designer for the Marie Hall fashion house.

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VINTAGE SHOWCASE

Get a tailored cash flow solution that really suits your growing business.

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American clothing company, HanesBrands, has made an AU$1.1 billion takeover offer for the underwear company, Pacific Brands.

The all-cash offer would give Pacific Brands shareholders AU$1.15 per share, with the board in unanimous agreement on the offer. We believe the 100 percent cash proposal from HanesBrands is compelling and represents an attractive premium to our long-term average share price,” said Peter Bush, chair, Pacific Brands.

With both company boards in unanimous agreement, the acquisition is only subject to Pacific Brands shareholder approval and other customary closing conditions.

The deal is expected to close in the third quarter of 2016.

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Scottish Pacific Business Finance was voted the best non-bank cash flow lender by the Adviser Magazine, 3 years running.

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ADMINISTRATION FOR BRITISH RETAILER YET ANOTHER CLOSURE

In a long string of outlets to shut up shop, Frank Casey Wellington has made the decision to follow suit. Owner Waari Ward-Holmes claimed increased availability and casualization of formal events has forced his hand. “In [2000], black tie events were black tie events - 95 percent of those attending a formal function went in the full attire - bow ties and all. Then from 2008, the casualization started. Then came the cheaper suits,” said Ward-Holmes.

Ward-Holmes has dressed big name celebrities including Stephen Fry, and former All Blacks Zinzan Brooke and Terry Wright. The store houses 650 suits spanning across all sizes and occasions, which all have to be sold off. “People wearing suits these days can pick up suits for a very affordable price. We’ve had to make a business decision, and this is the outcome,” said Ward-Holmes.

After over a century of business, British menswear retailer Austin Reed has entered into administration. Founded by Austin Leonard Reed in 1900, the group also owns two womenswear labels Viyella and Country Casuals, with a flagship store on London’s Regent Street.

The administration means close to 1200 jobs have been put at risk as the company goes on the market to be sold.

David Fisher

FISHER TAKES RETIREMENT OFFER

WOMAN BREAKS INTO SAVILLE ROW

ACCESSORY ALERT

An English female tailor has become the first woman master tailor to open her store in London’s prestigious Savile Row. Kathryn Sargent trained at Royal tailor, Gieves & Hawkes for 15 years where she also became the first female head cutter. “When I was younger, I think people were quite surprised that I wanted to do this, and it’s still a talking point, but everyone has welcomed me with open arms in Savile Row,” said Sargent.

Sargent began her apprentice in 1996 after visiting Savile Row and has worked as a bespoke tailor for both men and woman. The new studio will continue Sargent’s multisex tailoring service, making her one of the few on Savile Row to offer products for women. Additionally, Sargent is also set to launch her unisex “Sargent Harris” tweed.

Rodrigo Bazan, CEO, Thom Browne

THOM BROWNE TAPS RODRIGO BAZAN

Kathryn Sargent, master tailor.

Following his resignation as president of Alexander Wang, Bazan has been announced as the new CEO of Thom Browne Inc. Bazan brings with him 15 years of experience working with brands including Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs and Alexander McQueen.

“He’s a world-class operator while at the same time he is mindful of remaining unerringly true to the vision of the brand,” said Ken Suslow, chairman, Thom Browne Inc. Since its launch in 2001, founder and designer Thom Browne has been awarded best menswear designer of the year for both 2006 and 2013. “Thom has developed a modern fashion house, deeply rooted in American culture and with a strong point of view. This is a great foundation on which we can continue to develop a leading global business,” said Bazan.

The long-time head of menswear at Bloomingdale’s, David Fisher, has left his position as vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s and Young World after 33 years with the company.

Fisher’s departure is directly linked to the buyout incentives of veteran employees introduced by parent company Macy’s Inc. to streamline management. The voluntary separation applies to employees aged over 55 years with enough tenure to total up to at least 70 years. Fisher said that if it were not for the incentive, then he would have continued working for another two to three years.

“David Fisher’s passion for the product and the retail industry has made him one of the best merchants in the business,” said Kevin Harter, vice president for fashion direction, Bloomingdale’s.

Dan Leppo, executive vice president of home, replaced Fisher and takes over his menswear responsibilities while his childrenswear responsibilities have been taken over by Francine Klein, vice chair for accessories, cosmetics, Young World and outlets.

NEW SOCKS. TWO SOCKS. WHOSE SOCKS? PARISIANS SOCKS. The latest release of Visconti socks for Summer 16-17 release is now available through Parisian.

Having been the first colourful, bright sock on the New Zealand market, the brand has grown from strength to strength.

In recent years with the growing popularity of lively socks, the Visconti brand has kept its

8 I May 2016

unique styling ahead of the game season on season.

Made in Italy using 80 percent filo scozia yarn, the socks are guaranteed Egyptian cotton, double mercerised, meaning the best cotton thread in the world is used, creating the smoothest, most sheer sock that holds its colour

and doesn’t fluff after a few wears.

The result? A super fine sock that is fabulous on the foot. This collection of socks is available indent only and selling period closes mid-June.

For more information or to order contact Dennis at Parisian on 09 303 4129 or dennis@parisian. co.nz.

MILITARY TO MENSWEAR MENS DEBUT

Legendary Parisian label Balenciaga has announced the debut of a new menswear runway show. The announcement comes after Demna Gvasalia took over the position of creative director following Alexander Wang’s departure.

While Balenciaga has been known to show menswear looks in various lookbooks, this decision marks the first time the brand will dedicate an entire runway to an industry that is growing 1.5x faster than womenswear.

Russian arms manufacturer, Kalashnikov, has announced plans to release a range of military style casual clothes and accessories. Kalashnikov, which makes the AK-47, the most popular assault rifle in the world, also announced that it will open 60 stores in Russia to help move stock.

“Kalashnikov is a global brand, and we rightly believe that clothing and souvenir products with our symbol will be in demand among buyers,” said Vladimir Dmitriyev, marketing director, Kalashnikov.

NEW BOSS FOR BOSS Demna Gvsalia

German fashion house Hugo Boss has announced Mark Langer as its new chief executive following the departure of Claus-Dietrich Lahrs.

Lahrs left the company in February following a profit warning and steep sale drops in the United States and China. Langer has been with Hugo Boss for 13 years and brings to the table an extensive knowledge of the company. “Due to my long-standing work for Hugo Boss I have a clear understanding of the company’s potential and know what we need to do to get it back on track for profitable and sustainable growth,” said Langer.

Mark Langer

MARKET DOMINANCE

Statistics supplied by NPD Canada have shown that in the 12 months ended February 2016, the Canadian menswear market has grown 3.3 percent, compared to the womenswear market which grew only 0.6 percent. Euromonitor International, an independent market research company, attributed the growth to changing consumer habits and the increased demand for athleisure alongside tailored looks which carry a higher price-point. “There was a shift in the retail dynamic in 2015 in which high-end retail stores from independent boutiques to luxury department stores like Holt Renfrew and Nordstrom, and high-end specialist chains like Harry Rosen, performed particularly well,” said Euromonitor.

NAGSUN APPAREL FIJI LTD We specialize in the following products: • Swim Wear • Cycling Wear • Merino Wool Garments • School Uniforms • Fit & Formal Wear • Casual Shirts & Blouses • Casual Knitted Garments We are a 100% export oriented manufacturing company based in Nadi, Fiji Islands. Our commitment is to provide superior quality garments within short delivery times whilst focusing on customer satisfaction at all times.

We specialize in the following products:

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apparelmagazine.co.nz

I9

BREAK

THE INTERNET

NO MORE

PLASTIC MANOLO BLAHNIK AND RIHANNA

International footwear giant, Adidas, has announced it will no longer be using plastic bags in its standalone stores. The decision has been tied to the events of Earth Day and has the potential to eliminate as many as 70 million shopping bags per year. “Phasing out shopping plastic bags is part of our wider effort to constantly increase the use of more sustainable materials in our production, products and stores, as we recently announced with our newly launched 2020 Sustainability Strategy,” said Roland Auschel, global sales executive, Adidas.

CELEBRATING YEARS

20

Footwear brand New Balance is celebrating 20 years of its 580 style of sneaker. In celebration of the milestone, the brand is launching two new varients of the 580, Adrenaline and Deconstructed.

The 580 was created in 1996 as an off-road trail running shoe inspired by the ‘Made in USA’ M585. Since its introduction, various other brands have gravitated towards the urban trail style, adopting different characteristics of the 580 design.

The Deconstructed and Adrenaline styles feature a new modern silhouette for a marketplace that is concerned with both function and style.

The recent collaboration between pop-star Rihanna and footwear brand Manolo Blahnik caused the company’s dedicated micro-site to crash multiple times. Following the release, special orders placed online were disrupted by multiple down-times due to unforeseen traffic spikes.

“When we went live on our microsite crashed a few times. It was all up and running again, but the volume of traffic was so high that it has taken us a little bit aback,” said Kristina Blahnik, designer and communications manager, Manolo Blahnik. The collaboration started out as a fun project for both the singer and retailer, and has transformed into a market success, gaining international attention and orders.

NEW LAUNCH

CAUSES UPROAR

A Chinese sneaker brand has recently revealed its logo, which has caused a dramatic response due to its similarities with that of American sportwear company, Under Armour. The Chinese brand, Uncle Martian, uses the same inverted U symbol as Under Armour, with the only difference being in the way the two letters connect. “Uncle Martian’s uses of Under Armour’s famous logo, name and other intellectual property are a serious concern and blatant infringement. Under Armour will vigorously pursue all business and legal courses of action,” said a spokesperson from Under Armour.

Matt Priest, president of Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America took the opportunity to speak out about the growing levels of counterfit products coming out of the Chinese region. “Some might say, ‘Welcome to the club Under Armour.’ There is a history of the litany of famous global brands that have run into this challenge in China in particular. Counterfeiting comes with success. If you’re a globally desirable brand, which Under Armour has become in a pretty short amount of time, that will come with counterfeiting,” said Priest.

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DOUBLE PROFIT FOR ECOMMERCE Alibaba Group Holding Ltd has more than doubled its profit in the last year despite shares losing more than a third of their value since peaking.

The deceleration of online transactions in China has been blamed for the weak stock performance, however CEO Jack Ma said a focus on international customers

Jack Ma, CEO, Alibaba Group Holding Ltd

ONLINE CRACKDOWN

will ensure stability.

“Alibaba is stuck in this box where value investors like it, but the incremental investors need to find some growth, whether it’s accelerating revenue or improvements in gross merchandise volume,” said Chi Tsang, analyst, HSBC Securities Asia Ltd.

EXPANSION IN THE MIDDLE EAST

Chinese authorities have launched a campaign to clean up e-commerce, targeting trademark violations, poor quality and counterfeit products.

The campaign will run from May to November, and is set to step up regulatory oversight and impose harsher punishment for violators.

While the announcement did not name any companies specifically, the campaign has the opportunity to affect internet firms including Alibaba Group Holding, JD.com Inc and Baidu Inc.

Alabbar Enterprises, the United Arab Emirates based owner of Emaar Properties has baught a 100 million euro stake in Yoox Net-a-Porter. Responsible for running the world’s most visited luxury shopping mall, the Dubai Mall, Alabbar Enterprises’ partnership with Net-a-Porter signals the expansion of the online luxury giant into the Middle East.

“The world’s biggest online retailer is joining forces with the world’s biggest brickand-mortar retailer,” said Federico Marchetti, chief executive, Yoox Net-a-Porter.

The partnership comes a year after Yoox merged with Net-a-Porter, and the resignation of founder Natalie Massenet.

FASHION TECH ACCELERATOR

In response to the campaign, a spokesperson for JD.com Inc said “our business model targets the scourge of counterfeits and we support efforts to protect consumers, wherever they may shop online.”

The now publicly listed U.K. retailer, Asos, has announced a new partnership as part of its Asos Ventures branch. Telefónica’s Wayra and Asos Venures have come together and are looking for mature start-ups with a proven track record within the fashion technology space to be a part of its new accelerator programme.

Both Asos and Wayra will invest a combined £34,000 for an equity stake ranging 5 to 10 percent, as well as providing the start up with 8 months of office space at Wayra’s London academy, mentoring and business development support. “Asos has always been known as a digital leader and this partnership will help us continue to serve the needs of our customers as they evolve. There are specific areas where we would like to accelerate innovation, but we are also excited to hear what ideas come back from the start-ups themselves. The potential here, for ASOS, our customers and the companies we end up working with, is huge and Wayra UK is the perfect partner to work with on this search,” said Cliff Cohen, CIO, Asos.

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I 11

behind the business

SUCCESS UNDER

30 TRISH PENG

Trish Peng was born and raised in Auckland and attended Senior College. Her aunty in Taiwan is a tailor, but as far as a history of fashion in the family goes, that’s about it; everyone else is in medicine.

“Dad’s Malaysian Chinese, and Mum’s Taiwanese, so I guess I’m a Chiwi!” Peng said.

Ever since she was a little girl, around age seven, Peng knew she wanted to be a designer.

“Like most Chinese parents Mum and Dad wanted me to be a lawyer/doctor but I had my mind set and they have been the biggest support since.”

Peng started out doing a part time diploma at NZ Academy of Fashion design while she was at high school. After that she studied at Whitecliffe College and graduated with a BFA in Fashion Design.

Peng thinks a formal education is important for the work that she does.

“You need to learn the technical skills to be able to do the pattern making/sewing yourself or to manage a team of staff. You need to be knowledgeable enough to give them direction, as sometimes what you design, may not necessarily be able to be produced.

“However I don’t think fashion design requires the four years that I did. I think if you want to start your own brand, a business paper would be very beneficial to take.” Peng is the creative director of Trish Peng Ltd, which focuses on bespoke evening and bridal gown design.

“So my job is to come up with all things creative – from designing collections for Evening and Bridal, as well as designing the perfect dress for my client’s special occasion.” Peng is sharing her time between LA and Auckland this year with the plan to open a showroom in LA this year.

She said people skills are important for her work.

“Knowing how to deal with each bride’s personality – especially if they request something that I don’t necessarily like! It’s about talking them through what

will suit them better and putting my design aesthetic into it.”

Peng’s job has taught her about networking, how to design for every woman’s different body shape, and making the most of every opportunity that comes her way. Peng attributes success at such a young age to her parents. “They came to New Zealand with nothing and built their own business, so they’ve always inspired me to start my own.”

She started her brand while she was in year three at Whitecliffe, and did her first solo show at Stonyridge Vineyard, Waiheke in January 2012.

“I entered every competition I could to get my name out there. From there I started building a little clientele creating custom-made dresses and then people started requesting if I could do Bridal Gowns and I thought… why not, it’s just white right – but it’s definitely more technical than that, with a lot more intricate detailing, more fittings with meticulous brides. “That was when I found my love for designing weddings gowns as it’s the most precious dress anyone will own in their life time and it is a rewarding journey being at each step of planning their dream wedding.”

Peng’s goal has always been to be the next Vera Wang, and to expand Trish Peng internationally as a global brand, starting with the LA market which is where she’ll be spending the majority of her time this year. “I’m very fortunate to have a great team of investors/a board of mentors including the founder of American Apparel.”

Every day is different for Peng as she’s a creative, but a typical day for her this month has been in LA, setting up the US company infrastructure. She’ll be flying back to Auckland every two to three months to meet with new clients and have fittings with her bride-to-be’s.

“It’s an exciting journey and I love what I do!”

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behind the business

DE VERE

investments

Apparel sat down with Vere Sharma, the managing director of De Vere Investments, to talk about acquiring Kiwi menswear brand Meccano, the company’s ethos, and what’s ahead.

De Vere Investments formed almost 30 years ago, a partnership between husband and wife team Vere and Christine Sharma to supply textiles and manufactured goods to businesses throughout New Zealand and overseas. The business kicked off in the family home’s front lounge in Devonport, Auckland as an agency business between suppliers and customers.

Starting his career as an accountant, Vere has now been in the textile industry for 40 years. He said it just fell into place. “I wanted to travel internationally, and that came with the territory,” Vere said. After being based in their Devonport home for 15 months, the Sharma’s set up office in Devonport before moving to Takapuna, then seven years ago they came to cityside.

De Vere then evolved into the importation of garments before moving into wholesale with many premier New Zealand stores. The company used to supply to womenswear label Ruby and bought the brand in 2008. Ruby was their first foray into retail.

“It’s very challenging going wholesale to retail; it’s quite a different business. Retail is all about the day.

Wholesale is about getting an order from the customer and waiting for goods to be shipped and delivered.”

De Vere has always had a leaning towards menswear, and Meccano was a De Vere customer so the acquisition of Meccano was a natural move for the business. Founded by Hamilton business partners Dai and Cheryl Endicott-Davies, who started the family-owned and operated business in 1993, Meccano is a multi-store retail chain which specialises in high-quality, on-trend, contemporary and everyday menswear.

“After learning a little bit of the retail model through Ruby at a micro level it gave an opportunity to look at the bigger scale of Meccano’s. The purchase of Meccano was purely evolution.” Vere was looking forward to continuing to build the Meccano brand, particularly its online offering. The two companies have a wellestablished working relationship of more than ten years, making for a seamless transition into new ownership for Meccano staff and customers.

The purchase has increased De Vere’s staff numbers to more than 130, with 25 retail outlets across New Zealand. “We saw it [acquiring Meccano] as an opportunity where we could leverage what had been locked away for quite a while. If you’ve got a good supply, you can always get a good customer.

“The beauty about Meccano is it crosses a lot of buying opportunities. We can open stores quickly.

Ruby has a very strong online presence. The next strategy is to get Meccano up to scale online; communicating to our customer through the likes of Instagram.”

Vere said business would continue as normal with the exception of Meccano’s head office, which has moved from Hamilton to the Auckland head office alongside the De Vere and Ruby teams. Staff will remain at Meccano’s 15 outlets spanning from Auckland to Dunedin.

De Vere also recently opened Modern Manners in St Kevin’s Arcade on Auckland’s Karangahape Road.

“One of the things I’ve always been quite strong on is to look for opportunities. I have always believed in good partnerships. Essentially as a wholesaler, we’ve evolved. My business ethos is you’ve got to bring things to the table. I’ve always believed in being design-led as opposed to being a design-follower. We will take that to the retail model as well.”

Vere said the company focuses on four P’s; product, position, price and promotion. He said bricks and mortar go hand in hand with online.

“They are equally as important. People want to touch and feel things, and people also get satisfaction and enjoyment out of that. I’ve always believed in human

My business ethos is you’ve got to bring things to the table.

I’ve always believed in being design-led as opposed to being a design-follower. We will take that to the retail model as well.

interaction, going and buying coffees as opposed to making them at home. If you’ve got online, then bricks and mortar fall nicely around it well. They [Meccano] have already got bricks and mortar; it’s now about tying up an online presence to those stores.”

A lot of design inspiration is done online and through travel to places such as Europe, the United States, and Australia. Vere said the company doesn’t strictly follow trends. “I’ve always believed in a designled model, and having something that has a unique selling point.

I’m lucky enough to have an eye for product. I’ve also surrounded myself with people who have had a very good eye.” Vere said he believes in surrounding the company with good business people.

“We lead and we surround ourselves with people who understand where we’re going. It’s all the pieces that make up a good supply model.”

Looking ahead there’s lots of excitement, lots of hard work and lots of opportunities, and De Vere continues to listen and grow.

“Growth is about repositioning as well. It’s about getting aesthetics right, and then building on that aesthetic. De Vere’s is a vehicle now to collaborate with a whole lot of things. We live in a very challenging small populated environment.

“The neat thing about New Zealand is most people here are looking for some uniqueness; New Zealand is used as a testing ground for a lot of international companies.” The Meccano quality is high, and De Vere wants to maintain those high standards.

“There’s a bunch of menswear retailers, but Meccano has its own song sheet. That’s an area that we will continue to develop, its uniqueness. Although we’re going to be a fashion proposition, we’re still catering for the New Zealand guy.

“People in New Zealand care about what they look like, and guys are becoming far savvier in their shopping. Being dressed well is part of the overall look.

People want to dress up a bit more these days.

“But they’re savvy in their shopping too.”

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 13

BEAU & RIVER

A rising interest among young people for quality and beautifully designed jewellery at an affordable price has been the key to early success for Mt Maunganui designer Justine Baker whose company, Beau & River is winning consumer plaudits.

Using only the best genuine stones and materials, all designs are manufactured in New Zealand by her talented father-in-law Michael Baker, who has already established a strong production reputation in Fiji, Tahiti and Rarotonga in recent years. “Our business is still very new but we’re sure the team will grow with the keen interest being shown in our designs,” said Justine. “I’d love to see our own Beau & River store one day although currently we are online only (beauandriver.com). The idea of moving into retail as we develop is exciting.”

Justine has had a passion for the fashion industry since she was young and as well as being an experienced makeup artist, spent four years in the Trelise Cooper workroom learning the business from the ground up. Her grounding in the fashion industry has been key to fitting her jewellery designs into current clothing trends. Justine’s jewellery presently has a strong mermaid and bohemian vibe and draws inspiration from the beach and surroundings in the Bay of Plenty. She says there is an incredible laid back culture in Mt Maunganui and for her, it’s not hard to get inspired when you almost live on the beach.

GRAE

After starting a biology degree, Charmaine Williams ended up completing a Bachelor of Design Innovation at the Victoria University of Wellington. In her final year, she applied for a designer’s role with an online jewellery company and was able to work alongside their manufacturer in Wellington.

“It was a unique position to be working for this very modern company but at the same time working with well-regarded ‘old-hands’ of the New Zealand jewellery industry,” she said. “I have been privileged to design for some of New Zealand’s most exciting new jewellery companies and create some exceptional pieces of jewellery.” Williams conceived and established Grae in May 2015. Named after the metaphor of the colour grey, Grae represents this cloudy dream space where ideas are born.

“I think I have a modern approach to a very traditional industry. The backbone of the business has built on the quality of materials and exquisite craftsmanship and I value and support local companies and resources but in the modern sense, I understand the power of online presence, marketing and retail, incorporating new manufacturing technologies and looking outside your domestic market.”

14 I May 2016

Williams didn’t want to build a business that was driven by revenue or open a jewellery store full of watches and imported jewellery, so Grae runs as a studio rather than a retail space. She either meets with her clients in her home studio or travels to their city or hometown to meet with them.

“In this way customers are drawn into the design process and it is very collaborative. I think it unquestionably adds to the intimacy and trust that is essential to the client/designer relationship when having a piece commissioned.” She predominantly creates bespoke engagement rings.

“The wearing of engagement and wedding rings adheres to romantic traditions of love but I think my clients value their individuality and are writing their stories, bucking convention a little bit.”

Inspired by brands which challenge tradition, especially the alternative bridal movement, Williams aims to build on the first year of the business which has been spent developing relationships with clients, researching, drawing inspiration and growing a collection of exceptional gemstones.

“Eventually, I would like to scale up the studio with an on-site workshop or flagship location and create some fantastic jobs for likeminded people but do this in a way that emulates the privacy and intimacy of the current studio experience.”

SLAEVE

High-end streetwear label Slaeve is a brainchild of Ezekiel Crawford, a 19-year-old Bachelor of Architecture student at the University of Auckland, who also works as a graphic designer for a new vodka label start-up and has recently started an internship at Ignite Architects.

Creativity has always been a big part of his life. “I started sewing at a young age, with my grandma helping me hand-sew teddy bears, and then at 10 I was sewing my pillows. In year 13, I did start a little print on t-shirt company,” Crawford said, adding that his grandmother taught him most of what he knows.

“I guess a few people resent me because I have not had any training or studied fashion design. I just do a lot of research and a lot of drawing; I don’t want anyone to influence my creative process.”

Aged 18 Crawford founded Slaeve, a proudly NZ-made brand with a unique

MODERN MANNERS

The creators of Modern Manners come from opposite backgrounds. Ewan studied design and majored in textiles, and Liam studied marketing and management.

They met through Liam’s father, Vere Sharma, and both entered the fashion industry immediately after finishing their degrees. The pair saw a gap in the New Zealand fashion industry for young Kiwis creating gender neutral clothing. “We wanted to invest heavily in social media as it was something we both understood and could easily control. We were bored with everyday streetwear, so we wanted to sell what we would want to wear. The goal was always to create a movement.”

Liam’s earliest fashion memory, at around five-yearsold, was watching his sister teach other girls how to sew.

The first piece Ewan made was self-taught hand drawn studded jeans during high school.

The two-person team creates samples that get sent out to manufacturers. “We believe we are as ethical as possible. All our styles are either produced or sourced from local suppliers. Our brand’s motto is ‘from little things, bigger things grow’. For us making mistakes is almost more important than creating success, we want to learn and this is only done by failure.”

Modern Manners has a flagship store, but the focus is on creating a wider international customer base. “We would love to find new stockists around New Zealand and abroad at some point in the future. We are also doing some cool collaborations in the next few months, and NZFW. We have been inspired by past collections

by evoking nostalgic feelings, like early sunrises or late night sunsets.” The duo made the Modern Manners website with the help of a few techy mates.

“K Road is such a unique street and it is entirely different from Ponsonby just around the corner, we realised this very quickly and that’s why we started displaying young artists work and doing events like free tattoos in store. Our online store is just as important for our brand as our physical store, being able to connect with our customer base on a more personal level 24/7.

We have over 11,000 followers on Instagram, which is epic for a very young New Zealand brand.

“For sure it would be so cool if A$AP Rocky wore a few of our styles, but that’s not the end goal. We honestly just want to see strangers loving our brand.”

FLASH JEWELLERY feel to it, using mostly ethicallysourced materials.

“With a small budget it is hard to retain these factors, but it is something I pride myself on. And I am also proud that a lot of people acknowledge that it is something different to the New Zealand market and that there is room for growth, locally and internationally.”

Apart from some help and support from friends and family, Slaeve is a one-man-brand. Crawford loves both designing and making clothing himself; figuring out patterns, finding the materials, cutting and sewing—it’s all part of his creative process.

“I am the designer and creator, marketer and advertiser. I wish the team were bigger, but it’s hard to find people willing to sacrifice for the brand.”

Slaeve is currently stocked online at slaeve.net, but Crawford has plans to open his flagship store while looking for the right stores to stock his clothing range. As for further plans, he is aiming to launch a new collection by August, get sponsors on board and build up a small team. Besides, he would love to return to Fashion Week this year. “I was also invited to Vancouver Fashion Week earlier in the year, but couldn’t raise the funds. An international gig would be great for exposure.”

Discover Slaeve on Instagram (instagram.com/ slaeve) and Tumblr (slaeve. tumblr.com).

Started as a hobby-turned-passion, Flash Jewellery creates original, luxe jewellery that resonates with modern, confident and independent girls. Nelsonborn designer Nina ‘Flash’ Gordon stumbled into fashion while living in Wellington, when she used to scour op-shops, vintage stores and eBay estate sales, looking for things she could pull apart and turn into costume jewellery.

“I have always had an interest in how I dress and express myself,” Gordon said. “I definitely wouldn’t say I’m a fashionista, but I love being able to make others feel empowered and inspired.”

Her love of crafting is something she inherited from her father, who builds old cars and has taught her how to play with metal. “When I was 15, my dad brought home a shell of a Ford Cortina, and we built it together, bolting in the seat belts and getting covered in grease.”

Apart from a few jewellery night courses taken at 16, she learnt a lot of her skills while working at a Wellington design firm, specialising in army apparel, police wallets and loads of props for Weta Workshop and the movie industry.

Even though manufacturing is outsourced to India, that hands-on attitude hasn’t left her. “I find I go through phases of wanting to create with my hands, make a mess and begin new projects, to only wanting a tidy desk to design and sketch.”

The label has customers’ empowerment at its core. “I want to make them feel good, sassy and inspired, and having fantastic customer service and communication creates a culture and rapport,” Gordon said. “Having everything made ethically is also crucial. We have a great manufacturer and pay real prices for quality hand-made jewellery, which is made in small amounts.”

Flash small team, currently involving Gordon’s family and boyfriend, is dreaming big right now. “We have goals to expand our collections and make a wider range of jewellery, including a more premium range. We are designing our biggest collection yet, getting ready to hit the Australian market,” she said. While opening a flagship store is not in their immediate plans, Flash Jewellery can be found in 17 boutiques in New Zealand and Australia, as well as on www.flashculture.co.nz.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 15

behindtrending colour the business

Celine RESENE Half Secrets

Creatures of the Wind RESENE Melting Moment

Edun RESENE Regatta

As a combination of both karate influenced belting, and the ultimate casual cinch, tied up belts have cropped up across various designer runways spanning multiple aesthetics but ultimately achieving the same cool and careless attitude.

16 I May 2016

Gucci RESENE Momentum

Phoebe Philo, creative director at Celine started the design process with an incredibly open mind. The goal was to present a collection that depicted a story of a woman’s emotional journey. Raw, unfiltered and effortless. For this Philo focussed intently on natural colours, most notably whites, and as seen in this coat most similar in colour to Resene Half Secrets.

“In a way, I was open to everything—no preconceived ideas, very little of me saying no,” said Philo.

Another to veer towards white was Ralph Rucci, who pulled inspiration from the clinical environment of a

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Karen Walker RESENE Matchstick

hospital, focussing specifically on the idea of a nurse’s outfit and how it can be translated into accessible fashion. Rucci chose a shade parallel to Resene Quarter Alabaster for the majority of his collection, offering a clear canvas in which to work the fabric. Avoiding the over-use of print, Rucci aimed to wow audiences with his intricate detailing and craftsmanship, showcasing garments that had been utterly transformed.

“My dream is that the viewers will be hypnotised by the newness,” said Rucci.

The easiest way to describe the Gucci collection would be playful, with Alessandro Michele coming on

Marc Jacobs RESENE Gypsy Queen

board as new creative director. The result is a show full of life and fun, filled with mixed prints and colours, most striking in a colour akin to Resene Momentum.

“It’s a big trip! Of course, I am interested in personal style and quirkiness. There are things here that look vintage, but don’t exist as vintage—it’s the illusion of it. I’m not nostalgic! I’d like to shake it up again,” said Michele.

Marc Jacobs followed in the same vain, showcasing a vibrant blue much like that of Resene Gypsy Queen.

The show was dubbed a love letter to America, and its greatest invention – movies. It was fitting then that the

Ralph Rucci RESENE Quarter Alabaster

Tome RESENE White Thunder

show was housed in the largest surviving single-screen theatre in Manhattan, The Ziegfeld. Inside housed various movie and musical related décor including popcorn stands, fountain drinks, and ushers to lead big name stars including Bette Middler, Winona Ryder, Sandra Bernhard and Sophia Coppola to their seats.

Like the majority of Jacobs’ portfolio, the collection was soaked in nostalgia, pulling in his common Catholic themes while juxtaposing high culture with low culture and everything that comes between.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 17

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beauty profile

LIKE BEES TO THE CROPS For over 100 years Matthew Cropp’s family have looked after bees. It began with his great, great grandmother who has a fascination with bees and used them to pollinate her orchard.

“Today the Cropp family have over 5000 bee hives located at the top of the South Island, located in some of New Zealand’s most remote and untouched natural environments in the world,” said Matthew Cropp, founder and managing director, Cropps NZ Limited.

Matthew turned his family legacy into a new and blooming business focussed on manufacturing honey based skincare products and launched the brand Bees Brilliance.

“In 2015, I saw an opportunity to develop a new brand that focuses on taking the raw materials from the family beehives and make them into new modern natural products that people love, with no harm whatsoever to our precious bees.”

As a fourth generation beekeeper, Matthew is the company’s biggest advocate, explaining how the products are crafted from New Zealand’s best bee ingredients and work better than others on the market loaded with synthetic ingredients.

“If it weren’t for back injuries you’d find me in a beehive in the paddock today,” said Matthew.

The business, located on a 600 square metre manufacturing facility in Brightwater, includes an inhouse microbiological testing laboratory to ensure the products’ shelf-life is protected.

“We pride ourselves on the consistent quality of our production and test all bulk and finished

20 I May 2016

products to stringent quality standards.”

Within the Bees Brilliance range is a Bee Venom Skin Brightening Collection which features Manuka honey, bee venom, peony root extract, New Zealand healing botanicals and a unique blend of proven brightening actives including liquorice root extract, Sakura extract and glycolic acid. The range is available in a cream, mask, serum, spot essence and eye treatment, each of which is designed to help with

“...over 5000 bee hives located at the top of the South Island, located in some of New Zealand’s most remote and untouched natural environments in the world.” uneven skin tone, minimising face lines and reducing dark spots.

The company also produces four handcrafted Manuka honey soaps made the old fashioned cold process way, ensuring all the benefits of the raw materials are locked in to provide thorough skin moisturisation. In the range is an energising soap, moisturising soap, pamper soap and exfoliating soap, all of which incorporate various natural ingredients for whatever the customers’ needs are.

“Just as bees live in a manner that contributes positively to the world around them, we can take their example of living in harmony with nature and with each other and apply it in our lives.”

THE AD CAMPAIGN,

PRESERVATION. Creating something special The fundamental core difference at BeeBio is that we are not content to just produce product.

We have to create something special.

Every new product is a wondrous challenge driven by our own limitless expectations. It is not enough to just be good, or different.

We are not a brand that relies on size of range or number of product lines to impress. We will not try and sell you six crèmes when one will do. In any given year we develop just a few very specific intelligent products with unrivalled levels of efficacy and we only do it when the natural ingredients allow us to create and formulate something very special.

Introducing:

NECTAR V Shaping Serum for the face and neck.

BeeBio Nectar V Shaping Serum is a stunning formulation of powerful ingredients. Formulation of powerful ingredients. We use the renowned BeeBio anti-aging Manuka honey formula combined with New Zealand Ponga Fern, Lemon Oil, Lime Oil, Rosewood Oil and Grape Seed extract. Nectar V is specifically designed to lift, tighten and firm skin, and shape the contours of the face and neck. Nectar V is light and highly absorbent, working quickly to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and sagging, leaving your skin looking firmer and more toned. This special formulation has been developed to work wonderfully on the skin of the neck and upper chest.

Nectar V Shaping Serum is available now.

Soon we will be launching a world first in mud masks so watch this space!

We hope it makes you stop and think, judge, celebrate, damn, ponder, wonder, hate, debate or just appreciate the art? Is it stunning, is it shocking or is it beautiful?

We have a point of difference and we should celebrate it and shout about it!

Life is a myriad of choices and the world of cosmetics is no different. You have to differentiate and separate what is genuine, what is not, and what is just a case of the ‘emperor’s new clothes’? Just because a crème contains Manuka or Bee Venom does not mean it contains enough of it or at the right percentages in the correct formulation to be topically effective.

We could have played safe with a new ad campaign. The easiest thing in the world would be produce an ad like 90% of beauty companies. The generic beautiful face, with beautiful Photoshop skin, and a string of unverifiable claims.

For BeeBio we felt that was pointless. That is not what we stand for. We have a point of difference. Everything we do and every product we create is about being genuinely the best. We use the best and highest quality ingredients and manufacture in New Zealand to the highest standards. We genuinely believe it is ‘the best beauty product to ever touch your skin’.

BeeBio is spectacularly different when we get down to the essence of the product. We only use minimum of 16+ Medical Grade Manuka Honey. We only use pure Bee Venom and pure Royal Jelly. We use powerful active botanicals and all our active ingredients come from New Zealand. Our formulas are proprietary, require higher volumes of Manuka and Bee Venom and the other key actives and have proven independent scientific support.

Put simply, BeeBio anti-aging skincare is the real deal. A no compromise genuine luxury.

Best in class!

We chose to work with renowned artist Blake Little having seen his spectacular series ‘PRESERVATION’ where he utilised honey to coat the models.

The series is stunningly original and breathtaking and the theme is a perfect fit for BeeBio. BeeBio is about preservation of skin health, youth and enhancing your own personal beauty. Look the best you can at whatever your age. Medical Grade Manuka Honey is a natural preservative, natural antibiotic, antioxidant and natural humectant.

We use the best.

BEEBIOSKIN.COM

Industry Tips with Grayson Coutts

PHOTOGRAPHER: Caitlan Mitchell / MODEL: Natalie Walsh at 62 Models

Brows are so important. As a feature they can resonate with the observer to create a real focus. There’s nothing like a brushed up wolfy looking brow, or a softly sculpted natural brow. For something a little more avant garde, you can block out or bleach brow. Paired with a smoky eye this looks beautifully haunting. Whether bold or barely there, brows should be a big consideration in creating your makeup look.

Skin can be a real feature in a makeup look, whether it’s matte and velvety or soft and dewy. Generally you’d have it matte for winter and dewier for summer but the trend at the moment is toward sheer, healthy, glowing ‘athletic’ looking skin. Play around with texture as well as colour when designing your beauty look, as a combination of different textures can be really beautiful. Dewy sheer skin tends to look more youthful, whereas matte full coverage skin tends to look more sophisticated but there are always exceptions to the rule.

22 I May 2016

In almost any look there will be some level of face sculpting involved. You may not notice it as a feature but without it, a models face will look flat and two dimensional in photos. Natural shaping adds contours and definition to a face, or can be used to round out a face (e.g to soften a strong jawline). To bring sculpting out as a real feature creates a dramatic definition to the face for an edgier look. In contrast, you can use highlighting to create points of light on the face, either to soften naturally hard edges, create angles, or enhance the sculpting.

A lip colour can make or break a look.

If I’m going bold I like to pare back the other elements of the face and really let it speak volumes for itself.

Texture is important here too, whether you go matte, satin or gloss changes everything. Lastly, think about whether you want it sharp crisp and deliberate; or if you want it softly worn in around the edges, and more of a stain. It can be challenging to find a lip colour that works with an entire collection of fabrics, so it’s not unusual for me to change a lip once or twice throughout a shoot. For runway it can also be challenging to find a lip colour that will suit 12 different models, so make sure you let your team know if you’re including girls with a wide range of skin tones in your show.

There’s nothing like a smoky eye.

Whether it’s super blown out and dramatic or a little bit more reserved, a good eye makeup will make the model’s eyes pop. And when shooting a lookbook or walking a runway where the model’s face is relatively far away from the observer, it becomes really important. A lot will depend on the model you’ve selected and should always be adjusted to suit her eye shape wherever possible. In terms of colours, generally go warmer (more golden, chocolatey browns for example) for a summer collection, and cooler tones (greys, taupes) for winter. For a more editorial look, really pare it back to the bones of the theme and work with your artist to get creative. We also usually save the more dramatic looks for winter, and makeup for a summer collection is usually lighter.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 23

BUBBLE MASK OBSESSION

NEW PRODUCTS FOR LINDEN LEAVES

MORETZ LANDS BEAUTY CONTRACT

After joining the brand in January 2015, actress Chloe Grace Moretz has brought a new youthful spirit to fashion retailer Coach. Now Moretz has been offered a new role as the face of Coach Fragrance. “To me, this perfume is everything I love about Coach. It’s modern and happy. It perfectly captures the spirit, energy, and excitement that Stuart has brought to Coach,” said Moretz. The collection, which includes an eau de parfum, eau de toilette, lotion, body cream, and shower gel is set to launch in September and is inspired by the energy of New York City. “I wanted to create a fragrance that represents Coach’s free-spirited attitude, crafting a scent that is individual, authentic and cool,” said Stuart Vevers, creative director, Coach.

Skincare brand Linden Leaves has added three new products to its Natrue Certified line. An Intensive Repair Eye Cream with Organic White Tea and Melon is a lightly textured, gentle formulation of powerful, natural ingredients for intensive repair and redefinition of the eye area is suitable for all skin types, particularly mature or dry skin. Alongside this product is the Regenerating Night Cream with Organic White Tea and Goji Berry that is a restorative night cream. Lastly, a Skin Refining Cream Cleanser with organic White Tea and Jojoba has been added to the line that is a gentle cream cleanswer with natural skin refining ingredients to perfect the complexion.

Instagram beauty bloggers and fans are obsessed with taking selfies of their morphing masks. Despite foaming facemasks not being new on the market, the bubble masks bring back the feeling of being a kid and bubble bath water creating fake beards. This is one trend that will boost skin while also getting likes on Instagram.

TOM FORD BEAUTY LANDS IN NZ

Tom Ford Beauty will debut at David Jones department store in Wellington this Winter. The counter will carry the exclusive Tom Ford Private Blend Collection, Signature Fragrances and highly coveted lip and nail colours from the Tom Ford Beauty Cosmetics Collection.

Following the Wellington launch, a Tom Ford Beauty counter will open in early Spring at Smith and Caughey’s Queen Street store in Auckland. Tom Ford is re-defining luxury in beauty.

The new covetable collection of cosmetics and fragrances are shaped with his singular vision of modern glamour and infused with the utmost quality and craftsmanship.

SUPERIOR SWISS PARAMEDICAL SKINCARE

l 100m$97 JUST 30ml 40 $ JUST

24 I May 2016

Colosé Australia has introduced the superior Swiss paramedical skincare range. With over 120 years’ experience in cosmetics manufacturing, it combines the highly scientific with the natural and pure, achieving astounding results in minimum time. Colosé products are now available through Colosé Australia. The skincare and cosmetics products are made in Switzerland with high levels of active natural ingredients that deliver visible results.

With remarkable experience in production of skincare and cosmetics since 1895, Colosé’s chemists and scientists have been creating the finest, most effective products using the highly scientific and technical and combining it with the natural and pure. The paramedical properties of Colosé products make them noticeably effective and work in harmony on sensitive skin.

Colosé products are compliant with strict international quality standards. Quality is never compromised whilst delivering the highest level of luxury product and effectiveness at an affordable

price. They are produced under strict quality control using up-tothe-minute technology in hygienic clean room conditions, and comply with the most demanding and stringent Swiss Health Department, European and US (FDA) quality standards. The dermatological properties of each ingredient are tested and classified and the finished products are subject to a final inspection by highly specialised institutes for biological, toxicological and bacteriological tests.

Each product has been formulated in the Swiss laboratories to target specific needs. The range is one of the most comprehensive in the world and caters for all skin types and conditions, for men and women and is proud to be a cruelty-free brand.

NATURAL BEAUTY RITUALS SHAKE IT LIKE LANCÔME

Out with the old and in with the new with this new digital campaign by beauty giant Lancôme which promises to shake-up its cosmetic offerings. The latest lip product to debut from the company is called the Juicy Shaker, a pigmented oil-based lip stain that does not leave lips with that sticky feeling. The formula separates due to the mixture of pigment and nourishing essential oil, the packaging depicts a mini cocktail shaker. A cross between the iconic Cocktail Shaker lipstick from the 40s and the Juicy Tube lipgloss from the 90s the new lip product is for a new generation with a very affordable price point of around US$21. The lip product is available in 14 colour options and each reflect a different scent and taste that correspond with the colour’s name such as Berry in Love, Mint to Be and so on.

STOCKING NAIL ART

Asia is notorious for creating new trends in the beauty world but this new trend from Japan has many people confused. Pre-painted toenail stockings are the latest, somewhat practical, trend to take the internet by storm.

Thought up by brand Belle Maison, the tights are available in various designs, themes and for any occasion, although they do only come in one colour way so those with darker complexions are out of luck with this crazy trend.

For thousands of years, people have been drawing on natural minerals, botanicals and proteins to maintain the largest organ of the body, the skin. Native Rituals Apothecary has created a range of products that provide a boutique and exquisite skin care experience. They are not only natural and organic but also free from parabens, lauryl/laureth sulphate and petroleum derivatives. Consumers have been benefiting from specially selected beauty rituals around the world and Rebekah Norman, founder of Native Rituals, wanted to develop a range that was true to her vision to demystify the essence of true organic beauty and bring indigenous beauty to the forefront of society. Drawing on her Papua New Guinea and New Zealand roots to do this. Over many years working as a Music Teacher and Freelance Makeup artist in the beauty industry, Rebekah became increasingly aware of the various impacts synthetic products had on the skin and the education process required for quality skin care. This motivated her to co-design a luxurious natural range that celebrates the most powerful organic ingredients from around the world and empower users to value and learn from the history of beauty.

For more information visit www.nativerituals.co.nz.

BIOTHERM SIGNS BECKHAM

Paris-based, L’Oréal-owned company Biotherm Homme has signed David Beckham in a two-phase ambassador deal. Going forward, Beckham will appear as the face of the brand’s best selling Aquapower Gel moisturiser and the Force Supreme range across digital, print and TV media.

Secondly, the beauty giant will launch a complete grooming and skin-care collection, collaborating with Beckham under the Biotherm Homme umbrella. The range will be made up of skin and body products. “I’ve been thinking about developing a skincare range for a long time and it wasn’t until I started speaking with Biotherm that it all came together,” Beckham said of the products that are said to launch in 2017.

Beauty before Age Colosé Crème aux Liposomes

with Ginkgo Biloba helps improve blood circulation, slowing down the ageing process. Sweet Almond Oil and Aloe Barbadensis provide essential fatty acids and heal and sooth your skin.

Made in Switzerland, Colosé products are formulated using natural ingredients to ensure exceptional purity and quality, and are cruelty-free.

Colosé skincare products are the perfect choice to cleanse, freshen and rejuvenate your skin.

Email: sales@coloseaustralia.com or visit www.coloseaustralia.com

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 25

NATURAL MULTI-USE BALM

in the balm that have anti-inflammatory properties, such as lavender and kukui nut oil, so it has been highly successful at treating inflamed skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, sunburn or insect bites. It is also safe to use on babies and even your pet’s minor skin irritations.

Lakoko balm’s beauty is it versatility, it can be used as a moisturiser, rejuvenator and soother for face, hair, body and lips. Nourish skin, calm the mind and elevate the spirit with Lakoko balm.

For further information or to stock this product contact www.lakokobalm.com. Follow them on Facebook or Instagram @Lakokobalm

Created last year in Auckland by a massage therapist and a beauty therapist, Lakoko balm came from a shared passion for organic coldpressed coconut oil, often using it in massage and facial treatments that they swapped for years.

Combining their other love of aromatherapy, and a recent discovery of the amazing ‘kukui nut oil’, from Hawaii’s national tree, Lakoko balm was born. The product is a multi-use balm suitable for every skin type, with a fusion of exotic oils and packed with nature’s potent anti-oxidants ACE, vitamins and minerals. These help fight free-radical damage, and the effects of ageing.

The balm is 100 percent natural, with a high quality Natural Vitamin E used as it’s only preservative.

Genuinely chemical free with no hidden nasties, the product relies on the best ingredients to get results.

Being unisex, the whole family can use it from a post-shave soothe for men to a night-time facial treatment for women. There are several ingredients

VISABLY SEEING THE DIFFERENCE

LUXURIOUS SILKY FINISHES

Delivering instant shine, gloss and moisture, Silk Oil of Morocco’s Argan Hair & Skin Treatment creates a luxurious soft, smooth and silky finish. It is formulated with a high concentration of Cold Pressed Certified Organic Argan Oil which is rich in vitamins, antioxidants, omega-6 and omega-9 essential fatty acids.

This precious non-greasy and ultra light serum is infused with a divine passionfruit fragrance and is easily absorbed, leaving both hair and skin looking smooth, healthy and nu rtured. This unique and versatile product helps protect hair against damage caused by heating and styling tools and reduces blow-drying time significantly when applied to towel dried hair. As with the entire Silk Oil of Morocco range, this product is not tested on animals and is free from sulfates, parabens, mineral oil, linseed oil and lanolin. It is described as the most versatile product of the range as it can be used on both hair and skin and body.

For more information or to stock this product in your store, visit www.silkoilofmorocco.co.nz or contact Leanne Gillard, leanne@silkoilofmorocco.co.nz.

MODEL TALKS Natalie Walsh 62 Models

26 I May 2016

When you invest in skin care products, you should expect to see a difference, right? Dr Travis Badenhorst of Snowberry skin care certainly thinks so. Snowberry carried out nearly five years of research that resulted in the revolutionary New Radiance Face Serum with cu-PEP. “We did that because in our view, consumers should be able to see improved skin radiance or reduced inflammation for example,” said Dr Badenhorst.

“We also did that research because we knew that it is extremely difficult to formulate a serum that will result in a scientifically measurable reduction in the appearance of lines and wrinkles.”

Then Snowberry took the unprecedented step of having the New Radiance Face Serum clinically tested by one of Germany’s leading Dermatological Research Institute’s. “The gold standard trial is actually the only standard that counts. It’s the standard in science in any field,” said Dr Badenhorst. “The results speak for themselves. We don’t ask consumers to take our word for what the serum will do, we just point

After featuring in a shoot for Keegan Nelson from CommonThread Hair Salon, Natalie Walsh was soon picked up by model talent agent Amanda Betts, who put her in touch with 62 Models.

Within six months of being a new face on the books, Walsh found herself travelling to Tokyo with international modelling agency Image Models, where she has gained valuable experience in overseas modelling. Featuring in top fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier’s commercial in Japan has been a highlight for the young model to date.

“It was a big challenge for me as it

to the clinical trial.” Dr Badenhorst said that Snowberry’s world-first breakthrough resulted in the extraordinary honour of the New Radiance Face Serum being the only anti-ageing serum in the world, invited to be presented to the 23rd World Congress of Dermatology.

But what if lines and wrinkles aren’t yet a concern? According to Dr Badenhorst, Snowberry’s Gentle Cleanse & Tone and its Instant Deep Cleanser (for make-up removal), are really the only skin care products a younger woman needs. “From age 16 through 24, most women don’t have much to worry about in terms of reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles. The critical piece of advice I would give is to invest in cleansers that won’t damage the lipid barrier in the skin. Too often, consumers buy down when it comes to cleansing but spend much more on creams and serums.

Unfortunately, those cleansers may not cost much but that’s for good reason – they often contain cheap industrial ingredients that create great foam, but it’s that foam that’s doing the damage.” Many consumers have saved their skin simply by getting rid of the aggressive foaming cleansers they’ve used for years according to Dr Badenhorst. The skin rapidly recovers a much healthier glow, and persistent conditions like breakouts and rashes disappear.

“It’s quite simple, if you use Snowberry alone and you don’t see a difference, Snowberry will give you your money back.”

was my first ever commercial, and I wanted it to be perfect. Despite the long days and nights (10 hour days) it was well worth it,” said Walsh. “Tokyo was an excellent working environment. It was hard work and I was always busy with jobs, but it was a perfect place to work. I enjoyed my time there and love both New Zealand and Tokyo modelling scenes equally.”

Currently, Walsh is studying Makeup Artistry in Auckland but has plans to return to Tokyo after the course has finished.

Her favourite part of the job was meeting so many different and talented people within the industry. “Makeup artists, photographers, hairstylists, other models and clients have been great to chat to and learn from.”

‘90s

It sounds like a broken record, but it needs to be said again. Fashion likes to repeat itself. It is no surprise then that both the retail market and the runway have begun throwing back to the ‘90s as this seasons historical reference, again taking a new but nostalgic spin on some classic defining moments.

While various footwear trends have re-emerged, one specific brand has been resurrected, Doc Martens have become the casual choice of many, a nod to the heavy punk culture of the ‘90s.

Crop tops were a massive hit, and have come back with passion. Designers including Hemant and Nandita, Alice + Olivia and Kendall + Kylie have all taken their own spin to the old trend, executing various designs in newly available fabrics and prints.

The re-emergence of ‘90s goth has been seen in the abundance of choker necklaces worn by celebrities and models alike. While chokers are now being seen in multiple styles, the classic plastic braided choker is still without a doubt the most popular option.

Another footwear flashback is the reintroduction of sky-high platforms, the likes of which were seen worn by the Spice Girls on various occasions.

Notable brands bringing back the trend include Jeffree Campbell and T.U.K who offer both feminine and masculine variants on the trend.

Finally, Jelly sandals were originally developed as an alternative to leather following the Second World War, when leather was scarce. But contemporary celebrities, most notably Kylie Jenner, have pushed the focus on the otherwise forgotten fad product.

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I 27

ISAAC + LULU

From the headquarters of Caroline Sills, a new generation of clothing has emerged in the form of Isaac + Lulu, the youth focussed creative collaboration between Toni Sills and Ange Todd. Named after the children of Sills and Todd, Isaac + Lulu is the embodiment of the two kids’ big personalities, traits that have been filtered down to a simple mantra of style over fashion that clashes lady luxe with urban tomboy.

“Isaac + Lulu was created by us and for us, for our friends and people like us. We love, value and are serious about being considered, accessible and unexpected, it works with our lifestyles and it makes us feel individual, we call it elegant indifference,” said Ange Todd, designer, Isaac + Lulu.

Summer 2016 is no different, now in its fourth season and showing a clear understanding of the direction the brand is moving in. This season features a subtle Coachella narrative while incorporating hints of the ‘90s and an overall polished Boho attitude.

Having begun planning in September last year, the collection was finalised in December with fabric sourcing and design happening organically together to develop a synergistic blend of luxury feel and accessibility.

Consisting of combed cotton, viscose, t-shirting, cotton silk blends, soft linen and new generation polyesters, the collection draws together multiple textures and at points joins them together to present interesting takes on classic silhouettes.

“People always like a story; it makes the collection personable and presents garments that customers can relate to. It needs to make sense together on the rack without explanation,” said Toni Sills, brand manager, Isaac + Lulu.

The story coming through for summer 2016 is clear, an adventurous girl that likes to experiment with new trends, but understands the importance of having classic silhouettes and pieces that can be used interchangeably with other garments in the range, both from this season and previous collections.

The influence of activewear has seen its way into the summer 2016 range, with multiple pieces utilising the comfort of sporting fabrics, keeping in mind the importance of style.

Alongside the colour palette of Rockmelon, denim, shell and grey marle is the introduction of some exclusive prints to bring out the playful nature of the Isaac + Lulu customer.

“Customers want exclusivity, and it is important to be selective of prints as to not take away from the value of the collection,” said Sills. Standout pieces include the Kennedy Floral Kimono

28 I May 2016

top paired with the Lily Floral Short, a look that is the cornerstone of Isaac + Lulu’s youthful undertone. Developed in the same seaside Devonport studio that houses Caroline Sills, Sills, and Kathryn Wilson, designer Ange Todd thrives in the open creative environment.

“I’m surrounded by a depth of talent and inspiration within the whitewashed seaside offices that we share with Caroline Sills and Kathryn Wilson. We’re lucky to have Caroline, an absolute matriarch of the industry and all around incredible woman. A force of style in her Dries Van Noten and Margiela - as a mentor she provides us with a creative environment that nurtures the best in us, and she doesn’t mince words if it isn’t,” said Todd.

For the most part, the collection is produced in New Zealand, with 90% of the woven garments made locally. Isaac + Lulu, alongside sister brands Caroline Sills and Sills, utilise the technological advantages of producing knitwear offshore, being able to keep up with increased demand.

Having already shopped the collection out to an extensive range of stockists across New Zealand, the new range is set to be delivered in late July, and is also available through its four flagship stores and online.

TOSCA & SALOME

After travelling with her husband and living in Spain, BEX RILEY became inspired by the local artisans and beautiful surroundings, eventually leading to the inception of TOSCA & SALOME. Starting as a truck filled with her findings, Riley quickly expanded online and began working her way to a physical location.

The store started as a popup in TAKAPUNA, where it has now become a permanent fixture. Riley was drawn to the beach and is constantly developing the BOHO aesthetic of the store. “The environment here seemed a perfect fit with the clothes and the items the store is filled with,” said Riley. For Riley the response to opening has been great, she said opening the store has been the best decision for the business and has helped in its continued growth. Being New Zealand’s first owner of a fashion truck, Riley is also one of the first to cater her entire range to the Boho style, describing her regular customers as free spirits who love the beach, the ocean, and regular festival attendees. “I’ve kept the store aesthetic as Boho as possible - inspired by my travels to make it into a super little Boho inspired lifestyle store,” said Riley. However, transitioning from online to bricks and mortar was not easy, with Riley having to learn on the fly about staffign and maintaining a physical location. Much like other new retailers opening up, Instagram has served as an invaluable tool for Riley to connect not only with existing but new customers, with the store’s account boasting almost 10,000 followers. Riley sources a lot of her stock from Australia but has also branched out to California brands, all of which are in line with the BOHO theme. Forecasting for 2016, Riley said to look for tassels in the winter, with crochet detailing coming through in the summer months. While still new, Riley is already looking at possible EXPANSIONS, with goals to open a second Auckland store on the other side of the bridge.

However, no final destination has been confirmed.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 29

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