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FUNCTION TO FASHION FACING A CRISIS HEAD ON PG 4
Cover photo by
MAY 2020 I VOL 53 I NO 5
editor ' s note
INDUSTRY RE-SET IS HERE
And everyone is jumping on the bandwagon. It’s been a long time in the making, but it is finally here. Designers across New Zealand have been working together to work towards this historical shift in our fashion calendar. It has been a much-needed change for over a decade, and is a great achievement by the first collective of designers including Trelise Cooper, Taylor, Verge, Lemon Tree, Lania, Staple + Cloth, Loobies Story, and many more.
THE COMMITMENT INCLUDES: - Delivering Summer drops a month later than normal. - Encouraging retailers to delay going into full Winter sale by a month to regain the month of retailing that has been lost. Spreading their Winter stock out to accommodate this change. - Indenting all Autumn/Winter 2021 collections a
month later to permanently reset this season. Meaning for our two-seasoned country, March is Winter delivery and September is Summer delivery. Of course, there are brands who don’t follow a twoseason calendar, and have many drops throughout the year in mini capsules. The basic principle of what we are trying to achieve is shifting everything in the current calendar forward by a month. It is important to also realise this is a PERMANENT change to our local fashion calendar. The reason for this is to make the collections align closer to the climatic seasons. This is already happening in our industry so please let your retailers and stockists know your new delivery dates for Summer, and that this is a new permanent indent in our ongoing schedule. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity to make a huge change in our industry, and we don’t want to lose any of the momentum either. Please join the movement.
COVER PHOTOGRAPHER:
TRANSMIT PHOTOGRAPHY
CHAIRMAN PUBLISHER ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE CONTENT MANAGERS GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM
Peter Mitchell Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Janet Guan - janet@reviewmags.com Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento Debby Wei
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ISSN 1171-2287
Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand +64 9 304 0142 Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2020 NZ Apparel Magazine.
Servicing the textile needs of New Zealand and Australian brands Have control of the quality and performance of your crucial inputs by sourcing them separately regardless of where you make them!
MICHAEL WATSON DESIGNS Assists small, large, and emerging local brands with sourcing technical and performance fabrics. Including but not limited to: • Sustainable fashion fabrics • Workwear fabrics • Outdoor warm-wear and rainwear fabrics • Woven and knits • Recycled content • Zips, notions and buckles • Waddings and insulation – synthetic or natural • Seam sealing tapes and machinery ex stock • Adhesive films • Samples and colour matching • You can deal direct with mills in Japan, Korea or Taiwan, use our ex-stock of quality Japanese fabrics or have access to a specialist database of contract garment manufacturers.
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fast five
Governor General Dame Pasty Reddy and her husband Sir David Gascoigne
Oscar Kightley wearing fedora
RESPONDING IN CRISIS, HILLS HATS LEADS THE WAY At the hatmosphere in Wellington, Hills Hats legacy for visionary manufacturing and responding in a crisis has led to the launch of an innovative reusable Hills Face Masks. Founder Chas Hill departed Bristol for the far shores of New Zealand and set up on Lambton Quay 145 years ago. His neighbouring retailers were the likes of Kirkcaldie and Stains and LV Martin & Son. Under the custodianship of current owner the Smuts-Kennedy family, Hills Hats over the last 24 years has become a leader in high end fashion headwear that is exported around the world as well as a base of uniform hat manufacturing. In March this year with the threat of Covid-19 and the closing of our borders, Hills Hats made the bold decision to reset the factory to create an innovative reusable face mask. Alongside Hills Hats the original Smuts-Kennedy business is Eskay. This started out with two machines at the end of WW2 manufacturing ties for
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American marines, later expanding to making dressing gowns as well as manufacturing under licence to Hardy Amies and Yves Saint Laurant. Eskay also imported and traded high end men’s cuff links, Swiss silk scarves, tie slides and mohair blankets. One of the first decisions when Pieter Smuts-Kennedy and his son Simon took over Hills Hats was to sub out polyester and poly wool materials where possible in favour of finer more natural materials such as tweed. They purchased specialist machinery some of it dating back to 1904 from two other hat factories and focused on growing fashion headwear alongside the making of uniform hats for the likes of New Zealand Police and Defence, Fire Service and Air New Zealand. Under the guise of Hatman superhero Simon Smuts-Kennedy has placed Hills Hats top hats, bowlers, homburgs, fedoras, trilbys, fine wool patchwork in stores across the USA, Japan and Australia as well as growing public online sales worldwide.
The drive for sustainability has seen Hills Hats adapt materials such as cork, coffee sacks and tapa into the hat world. Over the last four years in collaboration with Australian lead hatter Rosie Boylen, Hills Hats has supported a venture in Vanuatu with ni-Vanuatu woman weaving pandanus to create exquisite and durable natural straw hats. Pre-Covid-19 Hills Hats had their biggest winter fashion orders around New Zealand and Australia and had just delivered a significant order of hats to the USA and Japan. As it became obvious that PPE gear was to become an essential element of everyday life, Hills Hats drew on their manufacturing history and skills and utilised hat materials to create the reusable innovative Hills Face Masks. Simon believes moving forward, face masks have the potential for becoming a part of everyday life, as a friendly sign of social responsibility and for protecting wearers and those around them through seasonal flu and winter
colds not just global pandemics. The Hills Face Masks design and construction concept features four layers including an interchangeable filter. The masks fit securely across the top of the nose, they hug the cheek and cup snuggly underneath the chin. Side straps with velcro let users put the mask without hand contact to the face. The masks and filters can be washed daily like any other garment. The beauty of making the small yield face masks in-house has meant Hills Hats is using small ends of treasured linen, cotton, and wool in making the masks. And the masks can be matched with Hills Hats headwear. The hats are back on the production line alongside the masks. Until the borders are fully open, Hills Hats focus is on manufacturing for the discerning domestic traveller, providing for our fashion, outdoor and street bubbles and Hatman will service the international market from the Hatmosphere in Wellington. The Hills Hats legacy continues.
COVID-19 STORM: FASHION RETAIL GROUP IN ADMINISTRATION NEW FACEBOOK TOOL FOR SMALL BUSINESSES Facebook has announced a new tool for businesses to use to sell their products on the Facebook social media platform. Facebook Shops is aimed to be used by small businesses who are needing to switch to online services quickly due to the COVID-19 restrictions. Marketplace is a similar selling/ purchasing tool from Facebook however, it only allowed Facebook users to sell usually secondhand goods to each other. Facebook Shops will be aimed for businesses and may overpower big players in the
e-commerce game like Amazon if successful. Facebook Shops will enable businesses to set up a single online store accessible via both Facebook and Instagram with a checkout feature that will enable in-app purchases. Facebook Shops will be a free feature for small businesses to use. Facebook works based on the number of advertisements they get, so providing a tool that will work well for businesses for free will, in turn, help Facebook with an increasing demand for Facebook ads.
The COVID-19 storm has hit the fashion sector hard. Major fashion retail group PAS Group has entered voluntary administration. The board felt it was best to enter voluntary admission to protect all stakeholders involved given the financial market conditions along with the COVID-19 crisis. The PAS Group has a strong desire to restructure the Group so it can operate sustainably in the future. The Group owns major New Zealand and Australian brands including Review, Black Pepper and Design Works - with 225 shops in total.
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ALLBIRDS X ADIDAS
Two sustainable footwear brands have joined forces to reduce the 700m metric tonnes of carbon dioxide emitted by the footwear industry annually. The partnership aims to create an innovative manufacturing and supply chain process coupled with the use of renewable resources to create the lowest carbon footprint ever recorded for a sports shoe. adidas and Allbirds will combine their individual sustainable innovations in the footwear industry to unlock the opportunity to set the new industry standard. "Our brands don't want to just
participate in the sustainability conversation, we want to continue being catalysts and creators of substantial improvement," said James Carnes, VP of adidas Brand Strategy. "The recent progress that our brands have made in the name of sustainable innovation has created the perfect momentum for this partnership to influence industry practices forever." "There is an urgent need to reduce our global carbon number, and this mission is bigger than just Allbirds or adidas," said Tim Brown, co-CEO of Allbirds. The collaboration will explore innovations across the entire supply
chain from material choices to manufacturing processes whilst still maintaining that the end result will not compromise performance. The project is dedicated to creating an athletic shoe that meets adidas performance standards, which are among the most stringent in the industry. adidas has committed to a 30 percent reduction in its carbon footprint by 2030 and carbon neutrality by 2050 whilst Allbirds' "Tread Lighter" program represents its ongoing practices to measure and reduce emissions across its entire business.
FASHION’S INVENTORY PROBLEM NEEDS A SOLUTION The fashion industry has been battling the issue of discountculture, excess inventory and the incredibly fast 'season' cycle. It's no question that there needs to be a solution, and Otrium seems to be hopeful that they are the solution. Otrium is a start-up online designer outlet and has announced a 24 million euro Series B investment round, led by Eight Road Ventures. Eight Road Ventures has investments in Alibaba, Treatwell
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and Made.com, just to name a few. This new investment round is aimed to help fuel international expansion of the brand. This investment round was introduced before the COVID-19 crisis hit, however, because of the pandemic, many retailers are looking into e-commerce opportunities. As a result, Otrium has seen an acceleration of interest in its online platform. Founder of Otrium, Milan Daniels, says, "on average, 12
percent of product remains unsold during normal economic times and now this has doubled". Thus, Otrium hopes to be that solution for unsold stock and inventory for retailers and brands. Brands who join Otrium will have access to tools that help with making precise pricing decisions that help them sell "old" stock faster. The pricing tool takes in style, the number of units/sizes available and overall interest of the Otrium consumer into consideration when
giving back a price to set on items. Otrium gives the consumer the outlet experience, online. This gives smaller brands access to the outlet environment without having to bear the costs of having a physical retail space. "All tools [on Otrium] are based out of one mission, and that is getting more value for every item produced."
in detail
JOJO ROSS MOVES IN A NEW DIRECTION
Jojo Ross has had the idea to reinvent her brand for a while now. With the sudden slower pace of life due to the nationwide lockdown, it has turned into something revolutionary for her brand. Introducing Jojo Ross 2.0, where the focus is on the pieces themselves. In-stores, a new garment is relevant for a mere six months before it is considered old stock. As a maker, Ross grows incredibly close to each individual garment she creates. “My garments put simply, mean a lot to me and I hate how they are considered old, while brand new, and, when they still have so much to give,” said Ross. Jojo Ross 2.0 is about rekindling the life of a garment while challenging the flawed fashion system. The pieces in 2.0 are created from pre-existing styles. It’s a process that celebrates the possibilities of the individual garments more than anything. The revisiting of previous designs is incredibly nostalgic for Ross and she finds enormous amounts of enjoyment out of it, thus, we see the birth of 2.0. Jojo Ross is now offering wholesale to the public.
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It had been an idea that has been swimming in Ross’ mind for a while. Being made in New Zealand is really important to Jojo Ross, however, it comes at a high cost. This is then reflected in the retail markup of her pieces. “I always feel a little uncomfortable at how few people can afford such high price tags. Selling online exclusively has allowed me to cut out the retail mark up and to offer prices that are achievable to more people.” The biggest challenge for Jojo Ross as a brand was her launch of their AW20 range, Club Silencio. It was launched in full, the week leading into Level 4 lockdown in New Zealand. “It was quite emotional and a bit of a blow as this was my biggest production run yet - after our first solo show at New Zealand Fashion Week.” The majority of Jojo Ross’ sales come from online and private sale events, so Jojo Ross took a pretty big hit from this. However, this meant she had the time to focus on Jojo Ross 2.0 - which she would never have
been able to sit down and think about properly. In terms of fashion retailers and designers’ futures post-COVID, Jojo Ross mentioned that the fashion industry has been struggling even in a strong economy. Thus, the post-COVID season will be a hard one for all New Zealand designers alike. “I think we will see a lot of brands shift from the old season driven model to something less restricting and something more present. Change is something this industry has needed for a long time so it will be exciting to see what businesses come up with.” Creativity, curiosity and fearlessness implemented in a sustainable and timeless manner is what Jojo Ross is all about. Jojo Ross understands that her brand is ultimately a reflection of herself and her creative mind. Thus, it is integral for her that it is representative of her values, what she loves and what she lives for. Jojo Ross 2.0 is a re-invention. Anything can be expected. For order enquiries, email info@jojoross.com.
meet the buyer
ALANA WINTER, BRIDE AND WINTER Alana Winter is an avid lover of style. She believes that size does not dictate and is forever on the quest to celebrate femininity and encourage women to love their bodies no matter what size or shape you are.
B
ride and Winter is a bridalwear company in Dunedin that offers an array of gorgeous wedding dresses from brands across the globe. Winter is the buyer and style director for Bride and Winter, however, she does not come from a background in buying. She initially studied a degree in Social Work due to her longstanding passion and desire to empower those who suffer from social injustice. Alongside this, Winter has a strong passion for style and clothing. She lived in Melbourne for eight years and pursued study in Personal Styling. She aligns her desire to empower women and passion for style in Bride and Winter which is seen in their overall brand ethos as well as the company’s donations to New Zealand’s Women’s Refuge. The ‘yes to the dress’ ideal is not what fuels Bride and Winter. “It is merely the vehicle we use to empower women to feel good about themselves, their bodies, all shapes, all sizes, all ages,” said Winter. “We adore women, what we stand for, what we endure, how we balance, how we love, how strong we are, yet so gentle at the same time. This is what we channel with every bridal appointment.” Bride and Winter stocks dresses across an array of styles. Just because a particular style is on trend, it does not mean that that style is what every bride-tobe is looking for. Bride and Winter offers styles that are edgy, a little outrageous through to simple, classic or conservative looks. When Winter looks for designers to stock at Bride and Winter, she looks for the values that the
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designers stand for. It is incredibly important that it aligns with Bride and Winter’s values. Moreover, Winter will see if designers offer a wide size range that will fit on ‘real time’ body shapes. A dress that looks great on a mannequin but does not translate to flatter real body shapes is not what Winter looks for. Each designer Bride and Winter stocks will have their own special point of difference. Winter likes having designers that offer something unique. When giving advice for designers wanting to find stockists, Winter believes that your imagery should be prepared and personalised for each stockist. It is important that your garments are of exceptional quality and serve a point-of-difference, however, if your imagery does not match the same quality, it is likely a buyer would not be as inclined to stock your brand. A photo tells a thousand words, thus, product imagery must be on par with the New Zealand market and trends. Winter is drawn to stocking designers who do not make stockists commit to a large number of designs. Each dress that is brought into Bride and Winter for a particular reason – how it sits on a woman’s body. With smaller capsules, it allows Winter to be ‘picky’, that way she is confident that the stock she commits to will look fabulous and flatter a particular body shape in which she is buying for. Winter loves exploring emerging designers to stock as their designs, without generalising, are more on the ‘edgier’ side. “We like to think we are pushing the boundaries in bridal styling for girls in the South.” Winter is conscious of the financial stress a lot
of brides have when planning weddings. Although weddings can be as cheap or expensive as you like, Winter has a variety of dresses for every bride-tobe’s budgets. Generally, Bride and Winter tries to keep their dresses around the $2,000 - $2,500 mark. However, they also stock high end designers such as Trish Peng and Made With Love Bridal for those who are looking for something a bit more luxe. The bridal industry has gone through various trends and challenges; however, Winter has been doing it her way since they opened back in 2018. Bride and Winter do not tend to industry norms and it’s been working just fine for them. Winter is most excited to be one of the first stockists worldwide to debut Evie Young Bridal. Evie Young Bridal fuses polar design elements together – the collection is harmoniously representative of the women who will wear them; beautifully diverse. When talking about ‘style trends’ for bridalwear, it is basically non-existent according to Winter. “Our brides increasingly appreciate high levels of comfort on their wedding day, so, if I was to pick a trend that’s on the decline for 2020, it would be a dress that inhibits movement or dresses that do not allow for some dancing!” The impacts of COVID-19 has been a challenging and scary time for us all. Winter is seeing how the next year will play out, but Bride and Winter definitely has plans to launch their own separate bride range that is designed and sewn in their own studio. It’s a weird time for Bride and Winter, but Winter is super excited to accept the challenge and make the best out of the situation.
edited
Illuminating Black culture’s influence on fashion Deconstructing how significant periods in Black culture have shaped today's trends. While several iconic trends, both past and present, stem from African American culture, the Black community remain underrepresented and often uncredited for their invaluable contributions to the fashion industry. In light of the current situation in the US and the ongoing movements for recognition and diversity in retail and fashion, we honor and celebrate some of the defining trends influenced by Black culture throughout the ages and outline the importance of brands’ joining in the global conversation to showcase their support and solidarity to the movement for equality.
with designers harking back to drop-waist silhouettes, feathers and string pearl necklaces to evoke traditionallyfeminine themes. Performer and activist Josephine Baker remains a muse for this era and served as a literal inspiration for Prada’s iconic 2011 Spring collection, which featured earrings in her silhouette and a banana print skirt.
symbol of political activism. Activist and former Black Panther, Angela Davis, is noted as the embodiment of fashion surrounding this period, representing natural hair, turtleneck sweaters and gold chains.
1920S: THE HARLEM RENAISSANCE
Considered the ‘rebirth of African American arts,’ the Harlem Renaissance enabled the Black community to develop its first group identity through fashion, gaining control over the representation of their culture. As many people migrated north for better opportunities and a chance to express themselves artistically, the movement introduced the world to trends and style icons still revered today. Zoot Suits, worn by jazz artists like Cab Calloway, emerged as one the defining items of the era due to its oversized silhouette and wide lapels that continue to influence menswear today. Also synonymous with the movement, pinstripes, silk shirts, wide-brim hats and brogues also lend themselves to modern-day trends. In womenswear, flapper dressing popularized during this time continues to make a mark on today’s fashion
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1960S & 70S: THE CIVIL RIGHTS MOVEMENT
The 60s and 70s involved long periods of political unrest with activist groups formed to promote the equal rights of African Americans. The most influential of them was the Black Panther Party, an organization founded in Oakland, California in 1966, challenging police brutality around the country. Founders Bobby Seale and Huey Newton decided on a uniform of blue shirts, black pants, black leather jackets and black berets in contrast to the military’s green. During this period, the ‘Black Is Beautiful’ movement also emerged, disrupting the idea that White features defined traditional beauty. Black men and women were encouraged not to bleach their skin or straighten their hair, re-empowering the Afro as a
The uniform sparked the beginning of fashion’s role with activism, paving the way for the bohemian protest style of the 1970s as well as more recently the pink pussy hat and women’s rights. In 2016, the Black Panther uniform was reworked into Beyoncé’s Super Bowl 50 performance, paying tribute to Black Lives Matter (BLM) movement. The underlying theme of ‘urban militant’ style continues to be present on the runway and within streetwear while staples such as black leather jackets and slogan tees are ingrained in our wardrobes. In the current turbulent climate, these items hold particular relevance and continue to be worn as symbols of power.
1980S & 90S: THE HIP-HOP ERA Moving into the 80s and 90s, hip-hop started to take effect on popular culture, manifesting in logomania, primary colors and oversized shapes. RunDMC rose to fame and kick-started the relationship
between hip hop, sneaker culture and product collaborations. The success of the song ‘My Adidas‘ resonated with fans and led to the group becoming the first hip hop artists to receive a million-dollar endorsement deal with adidas, followed by a limited edition ‘Superstar’ release.
Recent shifts include co-creator of Off-White, Virgil Abloh appointed as the Artistic Director of menswear at Louis Vuitton in 2018 becoming the first African-American Artistic Director of a French luxury fashion house. The following year, Rihanna partnered with LVMH to launch Fenty Fashion House to become the first women of color to start a fashion house and the first woman to create a brand with the group. This further symbolizes the influence of streetwear on luxury fashion, which continues to dominate collections by Black and Non-Black designers alike.
MORE THAN A #HASHTAG
With the value of producing ‘clothes without prejudices,’ Cross Colors emerged towards the end of the 80s, marketing to Black youth. Promoted heavily by Will Smith and TLC, the brand emblazoned political and social messages across tees, bomber jackets and color-blocked sweaters.
With younger generations at the forefront of driving change, brands trading in the current climate need to use their platform to authentically support the causes the consumer cares about. Black History Month continues to gain momentum, where last February saw communications and products associated with the event increase by 68%.
This era also embraced Afro-Centric prints, a key pattern noted on The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air and worn by Queen Latifah. Accessories popularized in Black culture during this time included bucket hats, gold chains and hoop earrings – core items that continue to be noted in retailers assortments seasonon-season. Athletes such as Michael Jordan began to make their mark on the world and in fashion, driving interest in white sneakers, basketball jerseys, caps and tracksuits. Further fueling fashion’s obsession with nostalgia, The Last Dance docu-series has revived MJ-era trends.
combating racial injustice. A call to create opportunity and support for Black-owned businesses has also been made. Aurora James, Designer of footwear brand Brother Vellies, has written a manifesto for big name retailers like Sephora, Net-a-Porter and Saks Fifth Avenue, asking them to commit to buying 15% of their products from Black-owned businesses. Following this, Rent the Runway announced it would allocate an additional $1 million to support Black designers on its platform, alongside a donation.
We represent 15% of the population and we need to represent 15% of your shelf space. Aurora James, Designer at Brother Vellies
While the increase in involvement is a step in the right direction, retailers who aren’t actively supporting movements and causes will look tone deaf to issues that impact a connected network of industries, businesses and people. Recently, the death of George Floyd in the US has reignited conversations around racial injustices and led to worldwide protests. While there has been an outpour of retailers sharing messages of solidarity, there’s been a push for brands to go above driving awareness. Glossier, Levi’s, For Love and Lemons and more have shared donations made to organizations
Black cultural trends have long been embedded in the tapestry of global fashion and brands can no longer afford to capitalize on this culture while turning a deaf ear to broader social issues. This is bigger than retail and it affects all of us.
2000S: HIP-HOP AND STREETWEAR MEET LUXURY Asserting itself as the defining trend of the 2000s, streetwear has evolved into a luxury and status symbol. Black culture’s influence into high fashion began with Dapper Dan who first introduced high fashion elements to the hip-hop scene. The designer established the first luxury fashion house in Harlem and created looks for clients including Salt-N-Pepa and Mike Tyson before finding mainstream success in 2017.
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colour trending
SILVIA TCHERASSI Resene Indian Ink MIU MIU Resene Crowdpleaser
I
s someone giving you the cold shoulder? Tell them, it’s out of fashion. Accentuated shoulder pads and Juliet sleeves are in. The Juliet sleeve is traditionally a short sleeve with a puff at the shoulder which emerged from the Italian Renaissance and named after Shakespeare’s heroine from Romeo and Juliet. Accentuated shoulder pads on the other hand has also been in the fashion scene for a long period of time, proving to be popular in the 80s. Accentuated shoulder pads have been creeping back into style since 2018 and it’s here to stay. Maticevski’s ready-to-wear Fall 2020 collection is crisp. Filled with sharp whites, cold greys and warm sandy hues. Maticevski’s looks were dramatic, and
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this ruffle-dress in particular is nothing short of that. In an inviting colourway like Resene Shabby Chic, this dress serves volume from an incredibly cinched waistline through to an a-line floor length layered skirt. Although, the skirt is large and voluminous, our attention is gravitated towards the dramatic sleeves that accentuate the shoulders, giving a similar effect as an accentuated shoulder pad would have achieved. The ruffled sleeve detail is a modern take on a Juliet sleeve and is definitely the center of attention for this look. Flor Et. Al’s ready-to-wear Fall 2020 collection is a dreamy garden wonderland. Intertwined with modern floral elements in green-blue hues, this floral pattern is duplicated across various styles throughout collection.
FLOR ET. AL Resene Wishing Well
This mini dress with a classic Juliet sleeve is paired with co-ord knee-high boots. The blues in this pattern, similar to Resene Wishing Well, enhance the fantasyfeel of this entire collection. This dress sports a modern silhouette that can easily be translated from runway to daytime wandering. Polish designer Magda Butrym moved away from party dresses a more masculine silhouette. Butrym's Fall 2020 collection was filled with garments you could wear day-to-day, rather than for special occasions like her previous works. One of our favourites is this black head-to-toe look which sports a long-line coat with subtle vertical pinstripe detailing. The accentuated shoulder pads in the coat is what ties the entire
l
MAGDA BUTRYM Resene Charcoal VICTORIA HAYES Resene Slipstream
MATICEVSKI Resene Shabby Chic
ensamble together. Paired with a balloon-style pant in the same material, a satin button up and leather knee-high boots. The array of textures seen in this monochrome look makes it sleek and stylish. In a dark colourway similar to Resene Charcoal; the reflections off each material tells us a slightly different story. Victoria Hayes did not shy away from colour in her latest collection. From shiny silver co-ords, boxy blazers, statement military-style hardware through to feminine satin ensembles. The grunge aesthetic is prominent in this collection, however, it is often juxtaposed with either bright floral patterns or created in a shiny or satin fabric. A great example of this is this belted floor-length jacket in a gorgeous seafoam-
blue sheen like Resene Slipstream. The gorgeous hue instantly draws you in, with an added wrap-belt detail and accentuated shoulder pads, this is not your ordinary coat. Not dressing to succeed or to impress, but to dress for oneself was the inspiration behind Miucci Prada’s design process for Miu Miu’s ready-to-wear Fall 2020 collection. This collection highlighted of long coats (some with gold military-style buttons), fluffy collars, belted jackets and silk dresses with crimp detailing. It was a collection filled with colour, texture, and character. This particular checkered co-ord is bulky but form fitting with its styling features of a brown leather belt at the waist. In a classic colourway of beige, black
and brown, this look seems familiar, yet so different with its slightly puffed shoulders and collar. The neutral beige colourway the checkered pattern is on is close to Resene Crowdpleaser. Silvia Tcherassi’s Fall 2020 collection celebrated bold cobalt hues with various abstract patterns. Breaking all the ‘fashion rules’, Silvia mixes patterns together in a ‘pattern-blocking’ manner. However, in this feminine floor-length dress we see her tone down her love for pattern for something more classic. In a dark navy hue like Resene Indian Ink, this dress has subtle black floral detailing throughout the sea of navy. The ruffled shoulder sleeve instantly draws our attention upwards, making the entire look elevated and lifted.
radar
Child & Baby
NOOPII
With the environmental challenges that our planet is facing, many brands are doing their absolute best to give our planet the love and care it deserves. Noopii aims to do their part for the planet, and their nappies and pants are just the beginning of their journey. Based in New Zealand, Noopii exists to have a positive impact on our environment. They do this by reducing the amount of plastic going into landfills, offsetting their carbon footprint by supporting the One Million Trees Planted campaign and contributing funds
to reforestation and species recovery programmes. Further, Noopii products are made from 70 percent sustainable and renewable materials – and are continuing to improve and develop new products to push that percentage higher. “As technology is advanced, so will our sustainability.z” Noopii’s Eco-Luxe Nappies are made from a cotton blend outer with adorable patterns created with foodsafe inks. The packaging of their nappies are attractive and feature illustrations of New Zealand birds, flowers, and foliage to celebrate the Kiwis behind this brand.
Breathable and lightweight with up to 12 hours of leak protection, super-stretch waistbands and leg cuffs for the energetic little ones. Noopii also has an Eco-Luxe Pants range for babies in the 12-18 kilogram weight range with the same comfort and quality. Moreover, with each pack of Eco-Luxe Nappies or Pants sold, Noopii donates a percentage of their sales to Forest & Bird – New Zealand’s leading independent conservation organisation. To stock Noopii at your store or for more information, email info@noopii.co.nz.
SUSUKOSHI Organic, timeless and transitional. Susukoshi is all about basic and seasonless apparel for babies and toddlers. With conscious design – each garment focuses on comfort and looks without compromise on either. Susukoshi was founded in 2016 by two mothers Eve and Maggie. Eve and Maggie were on the quest to find basic and comfortable clothing that could be effortlessly styled while outliving any fast fashion trends for their babies. It is a brand that is loved by kids and mothers worldwide. The word sukoshi means ‘little’ in Japanese, and the label Susukoshi is deeply inspired by Japanese design and architecture. In particular, the simplicity, detail, functionality and quality. With the word ‘little’ hidden in the name, Susukoshi aims to maintain a humble, or ‘little’ scale of production. This allows carefully handpicked fabrics to be used in their designs as well as colour and all other aspects of product design. It is without a doubt that the Susukoshi brand has evolved since its launch in 2016. However, their core values remain the same: sustainable, ethical, affordable, organic, unisex, effortless and suitable for all seasons. For more information about Susukoshi, email info@susukoshi.com.
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DIMPLES Dimples is an incredibly popular childrenswear brand and retailer, all made locally in New Zealand. It is a family business based in Auckland where they are best known for their high-quality pieces with chic modern designs, extensive knowledge of functional apparel, accessories and other baby needs. From cribs to bibs, they are industry experts. The latest Dimples collection was inspired by winter colours and merino wool. Merino wool is a team favourite at Dimples as it has many health benefits for babies and children. During the lockdown, Dimples had been recognised to be selling essential items for mothers and babies, thus, they have been able to operate online despite lockdown. It is important at this time that Dimples are able to reassure families that they can purchase their essential items and help pregnant mothers to continue nesting and preparing for the arrival of their baby. Dimples offer a range of products made from natural materials that are child-friendly, gentle and comfortable for all babies. For more information about Dimples, visit www.dimples.co.nz.
CRYWOLF Crywolf celebrated its first birthday in February 2019, but already the company has gained a reputation as a creator of fun, on-trend, highquality rainwear for kids. The concept for Crywolf came about when founder Natalie Meldrum was living in Bermuda for the 2017 America’s cup. “I knew there was a gap in the market for trendy rainwear for kids and I was determined to fill it,” she said. “After Bermuda I had a few trips into Asia to find a manufacturing partner who shared my vision and Crywolf was born.” It’s perhaps no surprise that Meldrum has been able to get Crywolf off the ground so quickly – she’s also the founder of children’s footwear brand Pretty Brave, and so has a wealth of experience to draw on when it comes to kid’s fashion. “I design for my own kids and tap into what excites them,” she explained. “I want to give them what they love to wear and what they need to stay warm and dry when playing outside.” As a Kiwi, too, Meldrum is well aware of the necessity of both outdoor play and suitable rainwear. “The outdoors is the greatest playground there is. Coming from the Land of the Long White Cloud, us Kiwis know our rain and as a nation we love the outdoors, so there is an underlying New Zealand inspiration to the brand.” Crywolf ’s fun and adventurous aesthetic means kids get the look they desire whilst parents get peace of mind knowing their child is protected in bad weather, with functional features like packable
bags, handy pockets, and the use of welded seams to keep the rain out offering maximum utility. “Our best-selling item is the Play Jacket. It’s a high-quality piece that is fully waterproof, but also lightweight and flexible, so it’s perfect for kids of all ages.” Crywolf also produces a range of rain boots in sizes EU20-33, and rain overalls for under-fives. In colder weather, the innovative Eco-Puffer is filled with 100 percent recycled plastic and comes with its own packable bag. “With Crywolf, young ones can play outside 365 days a year regardless of what the weather is doing.” Looking ahead, Meldrum is hopeful that Crywolf will become one of the key players in the Australian
kids outwear market within five years, eventually achieving global distribution. But her business ambition is tempered by a passion for what she does. “What I love most about my job is that I get to be creative every day,” she said. “With two brands and multiple collections and products, there is always an opportunity to dream up something fun.” Thankfully, Meldrum has a wide support network to help her juggle her many hats. “The greatest challenge is balancing home life with my two kids and husband, Tim. Family support and an amazing team make this possible.” For more information, contact Natalie at hello@crywolfchild.com or visit www.crywolfchild.com.
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WILSON + FRENCHY Subtle colours, hand-drawn illustrations, playful graphics, natural/organic fabrics and custom designs. These are a few words that describe Wilson + Frenchy. Wilson + Frenchy specialise in premature, newborn and toddler babywear, muslin wraps, bedding and kids sleepwear for sizes 1-7. Wilson + Frenchy is an ethical brand who cares about its production process and its impact on our planet. Their cut and sew range and 100 percent cotton sleepwear range are made and certified by GOTS fair traders in India. Moreover, their collections are all made from natural fabrics like bamboo, cotton and wool to ensure quality and sustainability.
Wilson + Frenchy is delivered to families across the globe via their online store. Wilson + Frenchy do not only take care within their production and product design processes, but they also ensure that the entire shopping experience online is seamless. Moreover, each piece is packaged in their bespoke cotton drawstring garment bags finished with their iconic gold foil. From product design, e-commerce through to packaging. Wilson + Frenchy have put enormous amounts of care in every aspect of their work. To stock Wilson + Frenchy, email hello@ wilsonandfrenchy.com.au.
THE MAKER. SUN. Fiona Qu, the founder of The Maker Sun, is passionate about handmade products. Sun is Qu newborn’s middle name. The Maker Sun creates gorgeous nursery decor and bespoke designs for mothers and babies. It began in the beginning of 2020 and was ultimately inspired by Qu’s newborn son, baby Jackson. With a new addition to the family, creating The Maker Sun was a way to celebrate and record her journey as a first time mother. Qu wanted to be able to provide for her family while still being a stay at home mother. Being a very hands-on person, creating these products for her brand started as a hobby that turned into a project she could take on to provide personalised products that are unique for the special ones in your lives. One of Qu’s favourite products she has made is the macrame wall hanging with a custom laser-cut name center. This came from the initial idea of a dreamcatcher. Qu wanted to create a dreamcatcherinspired decor piece as it symbolises a protective talisman that is used to protect people from nightmares and bad dreams. With various colour combos, you can choose one that suits your baby’s nursery or one with their favourite colours. The nature of personalisation is incredibly important to Qu. Thus, the future of the brand will always have this aspect in it. However, Qu hopes to explore products that highlight functionality as well as personalisation. For more information, email themaker.sun@gmail.com.
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NATURE BABY Nature Baby aims to create a world that nurtures you, your baby and nature. Since 1998, Nature Baby has been on the quest for sustainable, natural, and innovative products. Nature Baby is a family business co-founded by Georgia and Jacob Full. Nature Baby is their ‘baby’ in business and began after the birth of their first child. Georgia and Jacob
were inspired to find natural and organic alternatives for their children and decided to create Nature Baby – a brand that will never compromise quality. As a brand, they will continue to learn and develop products that meet their core values. Nature Baby is pure, meaning they are best for your baby, high quality, meaning they are safe and long-
lasting, useful, meaning that you have the essentials only and caring, in every aspect of what Nature Baby does. Nature Baby provides quality clothing, bath products, toys and gifts for you and your baby. Your one-stop baby shop. For more information, email hello@naturebaby.com.
LITTLE & LOVED Little & Loved began in 2013 by Zoe. Zoe is the owner-operator of Little & Loved as well as a loving mother to three of her very of “Little Loves”; Max, Finn and Cybele. Living sustainably has always been ingrained in Zoe. After relocating from Auckland to Northland with her partner, Ben, her passion for living
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sustainably has only grown. On the other hand, working for decades in the corporate world prior to Little & Loved - marketing and sales, to be specific, Zoe understands the ins-and-outs of excellent customer service. Therefore, she strives for nothing but the best in this field for her loyal customers. Choosing to work with other brands that align
with Little & Loved’s values are also equally important. Little & Loved ensures that you can buy with confidence, knowing that their products are both good for your little ones as well as the environment. For more information, visit www.littleandloved.co.nz.
BURROW & BE While working full time as a packaging designer for a small business, Catherine Melo found herself not being able to give the best of herself to either her children or her job and wanted to do something that gave her the flexibility that she needed. All of her previous roles, and experience lined up in a way that designing, printing and selling bedlinen, baby wraps and apparel seemed like a great choice. In 2013, Melo started researching and planning, and in April 2014 had product ready to sell as part of her new brand Burrow and Be.
“I wanted a name that evoked the ideas around warmth, safety and home, A burrow was a great combination of these especially as it’s the home of cute bunnies which have always been strong characters in children’s stories,” said Melo. “The be is about being yourself. Burrow into your space and just be you, be happy, be playful, be silly, be unique.”
MAE + RAE Mae + Rae was founded by Corine, who is a mother to two lovely girls, Clover Mae and Talulah Rae. Since becoming a mother, Corine has found a new passion for design and fashion. Thus, she began creating her own range of adorable fabric bow headbands perfect for your little bubba. Since her launch in 2015, Mae + Rae provides an array of accessories from baby swaddles, top knots, bow clips to scrunchies, headwraps and turbans. Mae + Rae uses a light and soft colour palette throughout their collections to make sure your little one is warm and in style. For more information about Mae + Rae’s collections, email maeandraebows@gmail.com.
Since launching clothing last year, Melo has developed a production cycle that features a core ‘essentials’ range that are everyday practical pieces. Alongside this, there is a seasonal drop where Burrow and Be collaborate with designers to create pieces that surround a theme or tell a story, with beautiful detail and one off fabric designs. “I love that we collaborate with other artists to create new and interesting designs. These collaborations can influence the style of our garment designs also.” Burrow and Be is really a reflection of Melo herself. “I have grown the brand with values and meaning that are true to my everyday life. From the outside, I like to think our style is classic yet sophisticated.” The team use unique colours that can work in harmony with the modern parent and home, and the print designs are all unique and original. Designed specifically for the Burrow and Be range by Melo, or in collaboration with other artists and designers locally and around the world. “The design and end product is only one part of the brand. Other areas such as ethical production, sustainability and growth not at the expense of others are also high up on our brand values.” It is really important to Melo that products within the range are true to the brand’s values and of the highest quality. “When using organic and sustainable materials it is often hard to find manufacturers that will produce what we need in the quantities we can currently order. We have some products on a wishlist that, until we can find the right business to create them, with the right materials, we won’t compromise our values.” Originality in design is also important, with all of the prints and patterns being illustrated exclusively for the brand. “Often with a vision in my head I work with different illustrators to create the look I am wanting.” Since launching, the product range has expanded
and over time the ‘Essentials Baby Clothing’ range has been hugely popular as well as the new muslin bunny comforters. All of the products are designed here in New Zealand and are made around the world. The size range in the offering has previously gone up to a size 8, however next summer it will only go to 5 as the prints and styles seem to work best with the younger age group. However, Melo believes there is room for a new range for older children. Overall, the general design aesthetic of the brand is classic, whimsical and sophisticated, with a touch of Scandinavian simplicity. However, as they work with different illustrators and designers, the style does change from season to season. “I have lots of plans for this year and over the coming years. Our biggest plan is to really crack into the Australian market more and then grow our export market to the rest of the world.” The biggest achievement for Melo to date has been that this year, her husband was able to quit his job and work full-time alongside her. “This has always been the plan, so it was a great achievement we have been able to make this happen already, as well as run an apparel business in New Zealand.” Melo loves the challenge of growing a business, and there is never a dull moment in her day. “I am always learning and researching. I love that I can design and curate beautiful pieces, meeting and creating friendships with other amazing business women, and although I work harder than I have ever worked in any other job, having the ability to be there for my kids when they need me is great too.” If you would like to know more about the brand, or become a stockist please visit their website and fill out the wholesale registration, www.burrowandbe.co.nz.
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How to recession proof your discounting strategy As the fashion industry adapts to trade in the new normal, find out what discounting strategies to adopt as we prepare for a global recession. As global lockdown measures ease, the fashion industry embarks on a long road to recovery from the pandemic. While adapting to trade in the new normal, we analyze what regional discounting strategies looked like when the virus first broke out to now on the verge of a global recession – plus considerations for retailers to adopt moving forward. KEY TAKEAWAYS • When the 2008 Global Financial Crisis (GFC) hit, retailers began relying on constant markdowns to encourage spending and move through inventory. This disrupted the promotional calendar, removing the need for regimented discounting cycles and sparked consumers’ addiction to markdowns. • The pandemic has encouraged retailers to rethink and reset their traditional trade processes. Businesses are already calling for realignment of the fashion calendar so products are dropped closer to the selling season and designers are allowed more time for creativity. While end-of-season discounting is delayed to January and July, impacting mid-season sale events which have inspired heavy price cuts such as Black Friday, Cyber Monday and Singles Day. • Key markets have significantly changed their discounting strategies throughout the course of the pandemic. The majority of regions opted to mark down more items than last year to help shift stock while consumer confidence was low, yet avoided heavy reductions to help product retain its value. Despite the turbulence the fashion industry has faced, many of these regions have kept to this strategy – even offering shallower discounts than when the pandemic reached critical mass or pulling back on the proportion of items reduced. • EDITED data suggests retailers are moving away from making aggressive markdowns as they teeter towards a global recession, retraining consumers to shop at full price and signifying a shift into a new era of discounting.
HAS DISCOUNTING CHANGED YOY? • The average discount depth for Australian retailers is 41% – the same as when the pandemic first hit critical mass early March and also in line with 2019 figures. However this is the highest of all analyzed regions. What’s changed is more products are reduced both YoY and compared to March. With a challenging bushfire season preceding COVID-19, we can expect a heavy promotional period to help drive sales in this market. • China maintained its strategy from March, offering
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shallower discounts compared to 2019. However, the region is being more conservative post-pandemic, pulling back the average reduction from 60% to 37% and significantly reducing the proportion of products reduced. • Germany has dramatically increased the number of products on discount YoY in March. Like Australia, it’s maintained the average discount percentage YoY and from when the pandemic first broke out – currently sitting at 35%.
• Italy is continuing to discount more product and at a higher level than last year. However, its strategy is less aggressive than back in March with a smaller proportion of products reduced and a lower average discount. • Spain and South Korea have continued marking down more products at a shallower depth YoY – a strategy adopted by most of the regions during the pandemic. The average discount amount has dropped even lower YoY and post-lockdown in these regions to protect margins, with Spain at 39% vs. 36% and South Korea at 33% vs. 38%. • Strategies in the US and UK have unfolded similarly. When coronavirus first broke out, both markets reduced fewer products at a lower rate than in 2019. Now, on average, 62% of products are reduced across US retailers compared to 54% two months ago. To offset the higher amount of markdowns the average discounting depth has dropped significantly – from 42% in 2019 and 39% in March to 36% now. • As the UK high street moves towards its ‘sale of the century’ with a forecasted £15bn worth of stock needing to clear, the proportion of products discounted deepens to 55% compared to 40% in 2019. Unlike the US, the average discounting percentage online holds from March at 36%.
THE IMPACT ON THE LUXURY MARKET As luxury designers move to increase their prices to cover the rising costs of raw materials and cushion margins post-coronavirus, multi-brand e-tailers deepen their discounts and bring sales forward to move through inventory. On luxury brands’ own sites, there’s been a noticeable trend of moving to archival sales to reduce
collections from past seasons and private sales to maintain exclusivity. Neiman Marcus, which filed for bankruptcy amid the pandemic, ran its ‘up to 50% off’ designer sale a week earlier than in 2019. The proportion of product discounted grew from 46% in 2019 to 49%, yet the average percentage lessened from 45% to 40% off. Deeper discounts were taken at Bergdorf Goodman
with its average discount percentage growing from 43% to 49% YoY. MyTheresa, which is owned by the Neiman Marcus Group is now exempt from its Chapter 11 proceedings, maintained its proportion of discounts YoY and lowered its average reduction percentage from 38% to 36%. Last year, the e-tailer ran a sale on its Chinese site on May 28th with 37% of the range reduced by an average of 40%. It will be interesting to monitor the shifts this year in light of the pandemic. Last May, Liberty ran an ‘up to 40% off’ sale only shoppable through its loyalty program. This year, the offer has deepened to ‘up to 50% off’ and is available to everyone. 33% of its assortment is advertised as reduced. Farfetch held its sale communications as per last year with an ‘up to 50% off message,’ Yet this year, discounts are deeper and more products are reduced. 31% of products are advertised as discounted at an average of 38% compared to 25% with an average of 34% off in 2019. SSENSE kicked off its sales last year on May 21st, but this year it was moved earlier to the 11th. Up to 50% off was communicated both years. Currently, 58% of products are advertised as reduced with the average discount at 30%.
COMPARISON: RETAILERS PROMOTING SALES • Burton UK ran a sale of up to 60% off, progressing to 70% in March. The sale message has now dropped to ‘up to 50% off selected lines’ and pivoted to ‘wear now, wear later.’ • Fashion Nova US has continued running its 30-80% off sitewide promotion. • Topshop and Topman UK moved from 60% to 70% off in March. In May, spend and save offers were prominent. In the latest emails, Topshop advertised ‘up to 50% off’ while Topman ran ‘50% OFF 1000+ Styles.’ • Mango UK ran an ‘up to 50%’ offer in March. ‘Flash sales’ or ‘quick sales’ for the same amount ran throughout May. • Anthropologie US ran 25% off everything. The offer is now ‘50% off sale.’ • Urban Outfitters US favored deal of the day offers including ‘50% off spring favorites.’ Now ‘up to 40% off’ has been popular throughout May.
LOOKING AHEAD: HOW TO DISCOUNT DURING A RECESSION • With retailers looking to realign their drops closer to real seasons, future trends will start to have a longer shelf life. Consider holding off on reductions now and retrain your customers not to expect discounts all year round. Look to realigning reductions with a more traditional end-of-season sale event in July or August when the season is actually ending. • Avoid sacrificing your margins with deeper discounts to entice customers to shop. Black Friday 2019 saw discounts of 20-30% have a higher rate of sell out than deeper reductions. • Retailers such as Marks & Spencer are ‘hibernating’ evergreen stock such as basic tees and chinos to be resold in Spring 2021. Before discounting too deeply and devaluing more trend-driven items, consider if it can be reworked into future assortments. • Look to allocating reduced stock to an outlet site to allow new season styles to sell at full price without diluting brand image. • Consider ‘spend more, save more’ promotions as a way to clear through stock with less damage to margins. • Community and giving back have emerged as some of the key themes throughout the coronavirus pandemic. Old Navy donated over $30 million worth of clothing to charities to avoid heavy discounting. For a less drastic approach, use discounts to reward customers in your loyalty programs or those who have supported your business during this time. • Be creative with your approach. Consumers’ inboxes will be bombarded with bold red sales messaging. Make your discounting communications as appealing as your new season edits and tailor them to what your customer will look to snap up post-lockdown.
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20 mins with
KETZ-KE
A
uckland based fashion designer, Jenny Drury, created Ketz-Ke to offer quality, casual, style-led contemporary women’s clothing that stands out from the crowd. Drury has always loved fashion from an early age and was naturally drawn to the industry. She managed a boutique when she was just 17 and the rest is history. “How I dress has always been important to me, I love to stand out from the crowd and not look like anyone else,” said Drury. As a fashion and style lover, Drury is always looking for something new. However, a wardrobe staple has always been a pair of converse, bright or classic. “They go with everything and I love how easily they bring a streetwear edge to any look.” Over the past decade, Ketz-Ke has put a large emphasis and focus on listening to their retailers and listening to their customers. It’s about relating to your customer. “You can create amazing garments but they still need to be commercial and desired by those on the other end of the process.” The biggest challenge to date for Ketz-Ke as a brand would be the COVID-19 impacts on the business. “I am very proud of myself for successfully getting through this period. I wanted to support my staff and my retailers through this as I knew...united we stand but divided we fall.” A typical day for Drury starts at the crack of dawn - 5:30 am; straight into exercise. By 7:30 am, she is already in the office getting a jump start on emails. “Every day is a different day here. I’m very hands-on
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in the business… designing, accounts, sales, meetings, photoshoots, social media. It keeps it exciting and I love working with a small tight-knit team.” A piece of advice that Drury lives by is that failure is only for those that stop trying. It has always resonated with her. For those who are just starting out in the fashion industry, Drury advises that while many people embrace running their own business as a ‘do what you love’ exercise, at the end of the day the books have to balance and vendors need to be paid. Thus, while starting out, it is important that you are willing to take it all on. “If you like wearing many hats and enjoy being able to bring a vision into a reality, it can be the most rewarding thing you have ever done.” Drury believes that the key to success is to keep on keeping on. When things get hard and the road seems too long, you just have to keep on, keeping on. It is vital that you always revisit your goals so you are always on track. Ketz-Ke has a diverse range of styles and looks, however, they are most well-known for their bold and playful prints. The Ketz-Ke customer is someone who likes to bring a touch of uniqueness or a bold edge to their look. They also value functionality and wearability. In the future, Drury hopes to align the seasons closer to the climate, this is something New Zealand brands have been trying to do for a long time but has been difficult with the competition seen with international brands. For more information, visit www.ketz-ke.com.
How I dress has always been important to me, I love to stand out from the crowd and not look like anyone else...
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28 I May 2020