Apparel Magazine // June 2017

$ 9.00

JUNE 2017 I VOL 50 I NO 6

RADAR

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7 BEAUTY NEWS 12 ESSENTIAL STOCK 16 RESENE 22 PHOTOSHOOT 26 INDUSTRY ACCORDING TO . . .

THE AUTOMATION APOCALYPSE

A new report by Cornerstone Capital Group has concluded that the jobs of as many as 47 percent of the 16 million Americans currently working in retail could be made redundant in the next ten years. The human aspect of the jobs will be replaced by highly-automated e-commerce and other up and coming innovations.

The in-store positions that are most vulnerable to the automation apocalypse are cashiers. Sales and freight can sit tight for now, but who knows what technology innovation could replace them as well. Only time will tell. Even ‘personal touch’ roles aren’t safe with some major chains aiming to replace all in-store greeters directly with robots or apps.

The report also highlights that while sales roles are just as likely to be filled by women as men, 73 percent of retail cashiers are women and their job is

considered “one of the most easily automatable”. In an estimated ten years, future retailers will have sensors and intelligent vision to automatically detect what customers have in their carts and then bill them as they walk out the door.

The report showcased two strategies retailers to utilise. Lower-end retailers can use technology to increase convenience and volume, while high-end retailers should focus on technology that enhances the customer experience. Ultimately, if more retailers focus on using technology to support highly skilled workers and enhance service, it may result in fewer layoffs and potentially higher pay for staff.

For this issue, we explored the markets of swimwear, activewear and intimates in an extended Radar showcase (flip to page 18). Vancouver Fashion Week is creeping up on the calendar and it’s not too late to grab a ticket. If you can’t go, don’t worry, we are live streaming all of the shows online at www. apparelmagazine.co.nz.

And finally, why does a chicken coop only have two doors? Because if it had four doors it would be a chicken sedan. caitlan@reviewmags.com

Before that trendy blue and white pinstripe print became a blogger favourite in 2017, it was merely seen as a workwear staple for bankers and is known as “banker stripes”.

Jane Birkin decorates her own namesake bag - the ever-coveted Hermes Birkin - with stickers, patches, beads, and charms in order to make the bag look less “snobbish”.

CHAIRMAN PUBLISHER GENERAL MANAGER EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR STAFF WRITER

ADVERTISING SALES PHOTOGRAPHER

2 I June 2017

Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Mark Fullerton - mark@reviewmags.com Courtney Macris - courtney@reviewmags.com Emma Warner - emma@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com

SENIOR DESIGNER

BY GREG FOLEY Subcultures and their influence on the cultural zeitgeist have always existed, even as far back as a century ago. In his new book, Greg Foley, explores an incredibly vast selection of subcultures which have risen (and fallen) over the past hundred years. Subculture spells rebellion and a departure from the norm, and has oft been organised by groups of marginalised peoples. Foley does not merely explore the difference between goths and punks, in this rather large tome he traverses the globe, and travels as far back as the 1920’s in order to explore the aesthetics and influences of people who develop their own entirely look. Illustrated with beautiful sketches which capture the feel of these counter cultural movements in all their glory.

Foley has worked in collaboration with Apple Music to create a streamable playlist featuring music and films which influenced the movements.

CLASSIC STYLE: Hand It Down, Dress It Up, Wear It Out

ON THE COVER:

The heaviest “angel wings” ever worn for the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show weighed 40 pounds.

The first outfit that Barbie was ever dressed in was a black and white swimsuit accessorised with white cat-eye sunglasses, a wicker basket, black heels, and red lipstick.

COOL: Style, Sound and Subversion

Gabrielle Chanel got the now-iconic nickname “Coco” because she often sang a song called “Who has seen Coco?” in the cabaret which she spent most her nights in as a young woman.

Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com

ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2017 NZ Apparel Magazine.

BY KATE SCHELTER Kate Schelter’s beautiful new tome is the definitive guide to iconic items which will never go out of style in your wardrobe. By embracing timeless, quality fashion staples Schelter believes that fashion followers can have a minimalist wardrobe while always having something to wear. The best part of the gorgeous little book is the illustrations by Schelter herself. The book is peppered with references to Schelter’s family, and designer clothing handed down to her and treasured, from family members. When fast fashion is a tempting downfall for many shoppers, this book is a great reminder of the importance of smart shopping.

MARGIELA: The Hermes Years

BY MARTIN MARGIELA Martin Margiela has had an unarguably grand influence on contemporary fashion, and his years with heritage house Hermes were particularly celebrated. This new work accompanies an exhibition of Margiela’s work for Hermes at the Antwerp Fashion Museum, and will be a must-have on the shelf or coffee table of anyone interested in fashion. The book was put together with help from Margiela himself, and contains unseen sketches, photographs and testimonies.

Thoughtful and full of insights, this book can be considered one of the best sources of information about Margiela, who is notoriously private.

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CLOSING AFTER 25 YEARS

DESIGNED FOR CUSTOMER DEMAND AND MARKET TRENDS

The Eclipse Textiles product development designers in conjunction with their pulse sales team, have officially launched their new PURA ranges based on market trends and customer demand. The PURA-Cotton and PURABamboo fabrics have been designed and developed to cater for the athleisure trend and the consumer who want to wear garments with more natural materials.

$1.8 MILLION FUND TO COMBAT AGGRAVATED ROBBERIES

New Zealand retailers will get a $1.8 million fund to help small high-risk businesses combat aggravated robberies. Many have welcomed the government’s new Aggravated Robbery Package, one of those being Retail NZ. “These small stores, which often provide a valuable community service without the cashflow to invest in expensive security systems, have been increasingly targeted by aggressive and sometimes armed criminals seeking to make off with high value goods,” explained Greg Harford, general manager for public affairs at Retail NZ. “Under the Government programme high risk stores will be able to apply for co-funding to install new security equipment such as alarms, fog cannon and other deterrence measures.This is good news, and we hope that it will discourage criminals and anti-social elements from undertaking their criminal acts.” Retail crime is a serious issue that costs New Zealand close to $1 billion per annum. Aggravated robbery puts the health and safety of business owners, employees and customers at risk. The new funding is step forward towards dealing with this issue. “We know that petty crime is a gateway to bigger, organised and aggravated crime, and we think it’s important that the Government and the Police also deal with petty criminals before their life of crime becomes aggravated.”

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After 25 years, State of Grace has decided to close its doors and move onto something new. “We’ve had amazing support from loyal customers over the years and have enjoyed this wonderful journey,” said designer Sherilyn Catchpole. She added that for them, it was no longer viable to keep an independent bricks and mortar store above survival mode and compete with large companies, fast fashion and online imports. “New Zealand is slowly losing most of our smaller retailers and designers.

Eventually, we will end up like Australia with just generic chain shops if the support isn’t there for independent retailers.” Catchpole explained that it has been a big decision but feels like the right time.

“With the industry forever changing and the way people shop, you have to keep so far ahead of the game. We don’t see it getting any easier, in the near future anyway.”

NZFW REGISTRATION NOW OPEN

Registration is now open for national and international media, buyers and industry representatives. Back for its seventeenth year, New Zealand Fashion Week can be found at the Viaduct Events Centre in late August offering industry professionals the ability to network with New Zealand’s top designers and industry leaders from across the globe.

VIP Delegates will be invited to the opening event on Monday 28th August followed by the highly anticipated Mercedes-Benz Presents Show. The following days will be packed with forward season Autumn/Winter 2018 collections ranging from wellestablished brands to emerging designers. Preferential delegate registration is open until 5pm on Sunday 6th August 2017 allowing buyers and media to secure their place on the official NZFW delegate list.

The Ponsonby store will be closing early July, followed by the website in the near future.

Selected stockists of the label will carry the Summer 2018 collection.

“We thank everyone who has been part of the State of Grace story along the way, from the local bespoke makers through to our followers and customers.”

Moving forward, Catchpole is excited for a new stage in her life and having more time for herself. “I feel happy and proud to of been around 25 years.”

ELIMINATES ODOUR & BACTERIA FOR ONE YEAR

A new Smart-Laundry treatment boasts its ability to eliminate body odours at the source and prevents them from returning for one year with just one wash. The first Deep Fiber Fusion™ product freshback™ is now available through Indiegogo, a crowdfunding website.

“The patented freshback™ treatment provides a new level of clean, the highest level of hygiene,” said Gilad Gozlan, CEO of Maaterra Group, the biotechnology company that developed the product. freshback™ can be used in any washing machine, high-efficiency machine or hand wash. The treatment uses premium detergent to remove built-up oils, soap residue and factory-applied softeners. Made from nontoxic and natural ingredients, it is gentle on all cloth types as well as linens, leaves no scent and doesn’t contain bleach. It changes none of the technical abilities of fabric, including breathability, waterproofing, compression, or wicking. All products are laboratory-designed, real-world tested and 100-percent guaranteed.

The Smart-Laundry treatment promotes less washing, less resource waste and less money spent on non-eco-friendly laundry products.

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JENNER FOR ADIDAS

WALKING THE LINE

New Zealand Fashion Week 2017 will once again play host to this year’s very special Walk the Line Fashion Show, run for young people by young people and to be held during the public Fashion Weekend.

Walk the Line, in association with New Zealand Fashion Week is a special platform where young designers aged thirteen to eighteen are able to put their creations on a world stage. Past Walk the Line designers have gone on to pursue a successful careers in fashion design. Every garment shown at YMCA’s Walk the Line has been designed, sewn and styled by high school students across New Zealand, with the show managed solely by the young people connected to the YMCA Auckland Raise Up Crews, who facilitate, produce, direct and run the show.

2017’s Categories are Sustainability (Eco Fashion), High Fashion, Street Wear, Open Design and the themed category ‘Fantasy Characters’ Each category will have a winner, with one of

them going on to be the overall winner of a $2000 Scholarship to New Zealand Fashion Tech. There is also a prize for best model who will be given a scholarship for SRA Makeup Schools 10 week workshop course.

Walk The Line is an amazing platform for young designers to have their design on the biggest stage for fashion in New Zealand. It is also a great opportunity for these designers to network , connect and collaborate with like-minded individuals who they otherwise may have not had the opportunity of meeting. Be sure to check out Walk The Line, Saturday September 2nd at NZ Fashion Weekend. For more information and to register visit www.raiseup.co.nz/WTL

DECLINE IN SALES

As Michael Kors sales continue to heavily decline, the luxury retailer has announced the planned closure of 100-125 stores. After experience a huge drop in sales over the past few years, things seem to be going from bad to worse for the brand this year, reporting a loss of $26.8 million in the quarter compared with net income of $177 million a year earlier.

SOME FUNKY TRUNKS

The total sales fell 11.2% in the most recent quarter and same-store sales fell by 14.1%. Michael Kors CEO John Idol said in a statement “Our product and store experience did not sufficiently engage and excite consumers. We acknowledge that we need to take further steps to elevate the level of fashion innovation in our accessories assortments and enhance our store experience in order to deepen consumer desire and demand for our products.”

Australian swimwear brand Funkita and its male counterpart Funky Trunks have collaborated with Bardi artist Ashley Hunter to create a striking print named Barnamboo, which translates to stingray in Bardi. The Barnamboo range is inspired by stories of the Indigenous elders and some of the proceeds from the range will be given to Indigenous community programmes. Ashley was brought up listening to stories of the elders. “I’ve always had a strong belief in learning, passing on and recording the stories of the elders,” explains Ashley. “Kids should be taught about culture and how our elders grew up so that the knowledge isn’t lost forever.”

SHARES SOAR FOR LULULEMON

After just recently announcing plans to close most of their Ivivva stores due to lack of sales, activewear company Lululemon Athletica has now beaten analysts’ predictions and reported a quarterly profit. Shares climbed 15% in aftermarket trading which Chief Executive Laurent Potdevin said exceeded initial projections. The Ivivva brand caters to the tween girl market and produces clothing for activities such as swimming, yoga and gymnastics. Lululemon plan to close almost all of their 55 Ivivva stores but will still sell the collections online.

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Kendall Jenner has landed a new deal with Adidas Originals, a move that is certain to cause some sibling rivalry with little sister Kylie who is the current face of Puma. Announced by the model herself via her instagram, Kendall posed on a golf cart, dressed in the company’s iconic black and white striped tracksuit against a mural featuring the brand’s logo and “Welcome to the family”. Kendall joins her half brother-in-law Kanye West, who produces his Yeezy clothing line in collaboration with the company. Excited to have the supermodel on board, Adidas have said, “A longtime fan of the brand, Kendall embodies the spirit of Adidas Originals as a creative force shaping the world today by challenging the status quo in her very own way. A classic icon, Kendall is a true Original and we welcome her to our family.” Fellow model and long time friend, Karlie Kloss also showed her support on her social media, welcoming Kendall to the Adidas family. This latest deal further signals the shift in sports giants choosing high profile models over sports stars to represent their brands, with other recent par tnerships including Gigi Hadid for Reebok, Bella Hadid for Nike and Cara Delevingne for Puma.

CD STEPS DOWN

The creative director of FRENCH83, Nicole Wesseling, is leaving the brand after two years and is moving out of menswear. Wesseling currently venturing through the South Island and will return to Auckland working as the production manager at Ingrid Starnes. “I look forward to learning the ins and outs of NZmade apparel before I venture out on my own,” she explained. As for FRENCH83, a replacement is yet to be found.

WORLD-CLASS FACILITIES AND TRAINING GET YOUR BROWS ON FLEEK WITH BENEFIT’S NEW ‘BROW STYLES’

Taking their Brow Bar services one step further, Benefit Cosmetics are rolling out a universal menu of services called Brow Styles. The service will be available at all of their 2500 Brow Bar stations which currently operate in 40 countries around the world. Brow Styles cover four of the top and most recent brow trends, offering customers the choice of straight, bold and angular, natural and feathered. The new service adds to the special in-store experiences that Benefit strive to deliver and reflects the enormous popularity and current consumer demand for well-groomed brows.

FENTY BEAUTY COMING THIS FALL

Rihanna is continuing to tease the upcoming launch of her Fenty Beauty makeup line by posting on her instagram page that it will be available this fall. Signed to Kendo Brands, Fenty Beauty will be in the same capable hands of the producers for Marc Jacobs Beauty and Kat Von D Cosmetics. Not much is yet known about the range and the brand’s tagline “Introducing the new generation of beauty” has only contributed to the excitement and intrigue surrounding it. The line has been a long time coming for fans of Riri and we saw the first glimpse of what the line will include back during the Fenty x Puma spring 2017 runway show, in which a holographic lip product was used backstage. Rather than traditional interviews, Rihanna will be holding open casting calls across America to find the perfect makeup artists for the line, further suggesting there will big things in store for us when the line is officially released.

ARTURE

Relatively new to the beauty industry, Arture began organically in 2015 when owner Yun Liu found a gap in the market for New Zealand made, natural skincare products that could significantly improve problem skin as effectively as facials from a medispa. Arture invites customers to ‘discover the art of nature’, and the brand’s name is a blend of these keywords, to reflect the creativity of the products and celebrate the natural beauty of their ingredients.

Liu moved to Auckland from Shanghai at just 10 years old and it was there that she gained a number of degrees in a range of fields including business, psychology and automotive engineering. Liu has always drawn inspiration from strong female world leaders and found working in typically male-dominated industries gave

educational seminars in 2017-2018 is planned.

“These numbers demonstrate the substantial demand for beauty training in New Zealand, something which is to receive a major boost through the establishment of the new L’Oréal Academy.

We are immensely proud to be supporting the career development of so many in the hairdressing industry through our recognised specialist training programmes and seminars,” said Mike Bruce, manager of the Professional Products division. The Academy is expected to attract a 22 percent increase in students over 2017-2018, with growth reflected in the number of courses this year. The practical and theoretical courses available span professional artistry and techniques, salon management, digital and retail expertise and fragrance training.

The new L’Oréal Academy can be found in Federal Street, Auckland and is providing beauty professionals with world-class facilities and specialised training. Additionally, it will also be the centre for development of future beauty products and techniques. The facility is shared by L’Oréal Professional Products and L’Oréal LUXE divisions, who have both been active in providing training and education in New Zealand, with LUXE offering more than 4,100 hours of training in 2016 for 618 of the country’s elite beauty advisors and The Professional Products Division conducting more than 13,600 hours of hairdressing education in 2016. They have conducted more than 4,000 in-salon training events with a remarkable 14,774 professional hairdressers received training last year, and further growth of

NEW GLOBAL MAKEUP ARTIST APPOINTED

Maybelline New York has appointed Erin Parsons as their new Global Makeup Artist. Parsons well-known as Gigi Hadid’s personal makeup artist and Pat McGrath’s former assistant. Celebrated for her editorial work and bold beauty looks, Parsons’ new role acting as the brand’s lead makeup artist will involve providing artistic vision and makeup looks for key fashion shows. She will also lead the team for all campaign shoots.

“As a child, I remember seeing Maybelline ads in magazines, tearing them out and hanging them on my wall because they allowed me to dream. Today, in the digital age, not only can we create aspirational artistry but we have the ability to teach it,” Parsons explained. “I am so excited to officially be a part of the Maybelline family. Together we will create makeup artistry that will inspire a whole new generation to dream.”

her a stronger identity as a woman. “It made me realise that I can do whatever I set my mind to and that success takes hard work and determination,” she explained.

With a passion for designing and racing sports cars, Liu had never anticipated working in the beauty industry, although growing up with creative parents, she always had an innate passion for creating. It was through her personal experience with oily skin and a struggle to find an effective solution, that gave Liu the desire to take matters into her own hands.

Liu spent two years in the laboratory perfecting the formula for Arture’s signature Resurfacing Microdermabrasion Cream, with ingredients including natural crystals and botanicals such as safflower, grape seed oil, aloe vera and rosehip oil. Her other two products then followed, with a long creative journey of their own. “I have personally been using these products since trial and have stopped using any other products for breakouts and going to medispas for facial treatments.”

Besides collaborating with the laboratory team and enlisting design and packaging professionals, Liu handles most of the business herself and felt a strong importance to create Arture ethically. “I’m a mum, so I know what

it’s like trying to do the best for you and your child, and we don’t want nasty chemicals on our children or us.

I’m an animal lover, so I’ll never use animal testing on any of my products, and whenever I have the chance, I will want to help an animal charity,” Liu said. “I know what makes a business sustainable, it is being socially responsible and giving back to the community that helped the business grow from its grassroots, that’s how we can create a better world and continue the cycle of love and care for each other.”

To make Arture’s benefits accessible for all, Liu is currently focusing on getting the brand stocked in pharmacies across New Zealand and has her sights set on selling internationally in the future saying. “My goal is for the Arture brand to be as world famous as brands like Trilogy and Manuka Doctor, so that more New Zealand made products can make a mark in the world.”

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ALL BIRDS NAME DROPPED IN TECH REPORT

THE WORLD’S SMARTEST BAG

Self-proclaimed as the World’s Smartest Bag, FYB London has created a handbag that features wireless charging, a fingerprint lock, Bluetooth distance alerts, RFID credit card protection and more.

The original Kickstarter campaign launched with the goal of $30,000 and is now sitting over $130,000.

The bag even boasts that it has “enough organisation to rival a mobile office”. The TSAaccepted biometric recognition lock allows the owner of the bag to access the contents of the bag, they can also store up to 100 fingerprints so friends and family can access too. The owner can also unlock the bag using their smartphone via Bluetooth. This innovative handbag is a step forward for wearable tech and provides a range of useful services for its users.

New Zealand footwear designers, All Birds, have been name dropped as a top achieving innovator in terms of digital marketing and product development, in a much-circulated technology report developed by US Mary Meeker, a former Wall Street analyst.

Meeker’s Internet Report crossed industry boundaries, and included fashion, noting difficulties regarding measurement of ROI in the social media marketing sphere.

She also compared digital advertising to a storefront, in it’s importance in engaging consumers. All Bird’s creative use of customer feedback in their product development was mentioned, along with their excellent customer service, which Meeker pointed out was integral in retaining consumers as 82% of consumers will not purchase from a

APP TO OUST IMITATIONS

INCREASE IN LUXURY ONLINE PRESENCE

The luxury fashion houses which have previously courted a strategy of exclusivity and scarcity are increasing their online presence, and many show growth in digital performance and reach.

In a report by investment company, Exane BNP Paribas, 32 luxury brands were assessed.

Burberry came out on top regarding their integration of digital and physical platforms, with Louis Vuitton and Gucci closely following, while Hugo Boss improved their performance by nearly 30% from the previous year. Increases in online performance go hand-in-hand with

RETHINKING THE SUPPLY CHAIN

Boston retailer, Ministry of Supply, is taking new steps into mass customisation. The retailer has invested in a 3D knitting machine, allowing customers to request a totally customised blazer which is then produced in store. The knitting machine knits the blazer in one piece, meaning there are no seams making the garment more durable and reduces fabric wastage.

This nearly entirely cuts out human labour, although buttons still need to be sewn on by hand. While a mass customisation plan could decrease retailer

e-commerce overhauls, according to Luca Solca author of the report - and brands who do not fully adopt digitalisation are lagging behind and not meeting performance potential. As Generations Y and Z become a more powerful purchasing force within the luxury market, digital platforms and authentic online experiences regarding luxury brands are set to become even more of an integral part of brands’ offerings.

costs in production, stock holding and overstocking, there is still a lot of question within the fashion industry as to whether mass customisation could ever be a practical solution in a retail environment.

Mid-price luxury customers are increasingly concerned with where their garments are made, durability, quality, and a unique experience (which appeals to the Millennial consumer). Ministry of Supply is looking to extend their mass customisation to other garments, as well as fully develop the service for their e-commerce store.

They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, but luxury brands would agree to disagree in regards to their fake counterparts.

A new scanner, Entrupy, has been developed which can deduce what is real and what is fake to a high degree not visible to the human eye. The scanner is portable and uses microscopic photos to analyse the quality of the outer material, craftsmanship and serial number, transmitting the images to an app on smartphones. This then issues a Certificate of Authenticity to the user if the bag is the real deal. Entrupy has a staggering 97.1% rate of accuracy, meaning this could be a key investment for vintage stores re-selling luxury goods, or for consumers who collect vintage luxury items. With re-sale vintage commanding staggering prices, and imitation goods constantly increasing in quality, Entrupy is set to disrupt the imitation market, and protect luxury goods.

LVMH LAUNCHES LUXURY E-BOUTIQUE LVMH is launching their own e-commerce site, 24 Sevres, which will sell goods from all of its highquality brands, as well as goods from brands not owned by the conglomerate. The website will be a consumer-targeted luxury goods online store which will function as part of Parisian department store Le Bon Marché which is owned by LVMH, and the site will compete with FarFetch and Yoox NetA-Porter. The goods will be womenswear to start, and will offer shipping to 75 countries, utilising LVMH’s exclusivity to offer goods which have previously not been available online in a multibrand site. Unlike Net-A-Porter and FarFetch, 24 Sevres will not produce editorial-style content,

8 I June 2017

company again following a poor experience, a figure which has been increasing with hyper connectivity and social media presence of brands.

but a more unique visual merchandising focus, as well as offer styling services. LVMH previously opened an online store in 2009, eLuxury.com, which was unsuccessful.

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A ROMPING GOOD TIME

The fashion industry has always been a hub of innovation and diversity, which has never been more apparent than in a design for a new male romper. The ‘RompHim’ is a unique new design concept, specifically made for men, which are available in a variety of vibrant colours. RompHim is the result of a KickStarter campaign, and have already sold out some colourways. The designs feature a zippered back pocket, adjustable waist, zip fly and a buttoned torso with a mandarin-style collar. The project actually began as a business school project created by the founders who have yet to graduate. In regards to marketing, the RompHim is being positioned as a statement outfit for any occasion, and has 16 thousand followers on Instagram.

SUPREME HONOURS KING OF POP

Skate-wear brand, Supreme, is honouring the King of Pop. Michael Jackson is the focus of their latest capsule collection, with a black and white picture of him adorning hoodies, button down shirts and tees, available in a variety of colours. The collection also features a skateboard printed with his image. Supreme’s edgy, skater street cred has been on shaky ground lately, due to their collaboration with Louis Vuitton which did not sit well with longtime fans of the brand. Perhaps this new collection will win back some fans who are doubting Supreme’s place among skate brands.

ELEGANT MEN WANTED

Deadly Ponies is calling all sartorially elegant men with their latest men’s collection. The collection is sophisticated yet undeniably spirited. Using rich Ink bovine leather, tightly coiled shearling and iridescent brass highlights; Liam Bowden, creative director of Deadly Ponies, explained that he was heavily influenced by the ocean. Deadly Ponies Man 2017 builds on the classic range with an edit of travel accessories and the Phantom Duffle is re-introduced alongside a new leather washbag.

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MACK WELDON DOES SWIM

Mack Weldon has previously been known for their top notch mens underwear, but now they’re expanding for summer - launching into the swimwear market with two classic men’s styles available in a variety of colours and prints. The fabric used is anti-microbial, with a lightweight feel, in-built stretch and quick drying ability. The styles focus on consumer needs; with waterproof zip pockets, and a design which is made to be comfortable when wet.

Brian Berger, Mack Weldon’s founder, said that the aim of the collection was to merge classic style with innovative fabric, as he found many existing menswear suits to be either very sporty and lacking in style, or very stylish and lacking in practicality.

BECKS ON DECK

David Beckham is an industry stalwart when it comes to brand ambassadorship. After being switched for The Wknd at H&M, Beckham has found a new partner in Rolex’s sibling brand, Tudor. The watch brand has shot a dramatic new campaign ‘Born to Dare’, featuring Beckham wearing Tudor’s new dual-tone Heritage watch. Beckham’s influence has been a golden ticket for other brands, and shows the importance of brand appropriate endorsements.

SJP RELEASES SPARKLY SNEAKERS

Sarah Jessica Parker’s SJP Collection footwear line has released her first design of sneaker, which looks distinctly un-sneaker-like. The design features a white rubber sole, a T-bar design and a hidden Velcro closure at the ankle, and come in a variety of colours including metallic silver and gold. In the 24 hours following their release, online stockists nearly sold out, and fans voiced their approval on social media. Parker’s line has followed a mid-range pricing, with an emphasis on quality and affordable luxury – a message which is lost on some consumers, as many online commenters said the USD255 price tag was too much.

COPYCAT BOOTS CAUSE LAWSUIT

DEJA VU FOR FRENCH FOOTWEAR French footwear brand, Carel, have successfully repositioned their brand and moved the age of their average consumer from over 60 to under 30. The Parisian heritage brand was formerly only popular with retirees until a marketing, store and image overhaul launched by their CEO Frederique Picard captured the attention of the younger demographic. Along with the increase in popularity, their annual revenue increased from $13 million to $17 million. Along with the image overhaul, Carel relaunched their classic Mary-Jane style pump, which has a small block heel.

The brand also reworked their distribution strategy, and are now stocked in Opening Ceremony and Totokaelo, and has a strong social media presence.

Steve Madden have responded to a lawsuit from AirWair Intl, Dr Martens’ affiliate company. The lace-up high-top boot with rubber sole raised concerns over its alleged use of Dr Martens’ trademarked rubber sole.

Steve Madden rejected these claims, and said that their use of design on the rubber sole was purely functional, and not a copy, also asking the U.S. Patents and Trademarks Office. AirWair and Dr Marten have requested a permanent injunction on the sales of Steve Madden’s boots and $1 million in damages.

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Visibly improve the appearance of acne, fine lines, pores, spots, scars and stretch marks.Made from 100% natural crystals, and packed full of botanical essences to beautify the skin after resurfacing.

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ASOS

Fleur du mal

Love and Lemons

STRAP YOURSELF IN

No longer is lingerie the exclusive domain of speciality stores, with hazy lighting, thick pink curtains and poofy armchairs to sink into when strapping yourself into yet another push-up bra becomes overwhelming. Gone are the days when consumers would only purchase lingerie for a special occasion, or to impress their other half.

L

Illustrations by Carly Tolley

ingerie has been liberated! Increasingly, lingerie purchases have become a mainstream occurrence, a purchase which may go alongside a new blouse for work, or a new pair of jeans. And the reasons for wearing lingerie has changed; it’s no longer just a special occasion item, but an everyday indulgence for the wearer. Retailers, merchandisers and designers should consider expanding their product lines to include all the delicate underpinnings, it will keep customers happy, and add to revenue and sales.

Showing a bra strap is still a contentious issue, with many American schools punishing female students who show their bra straps whether on purpose or accidentally. However, the fashion industry (as usual) is rebelling, and showing off some unexpected straps is the lingerie look breathing new life into the industry.

While the style unarguably derives from origins within the bondage and fetishwear scene, mainstream consumers have embraced the look with gusto. A major player in the space has been New Zealand’s Lonely Lingerie, their soft-cup lace bras emboldened by unique straps and designs taking lingerie consumers by storm and capturing international attention.

Strappy bras and bralettes come in a variety of designs, all with subtle differences tailored to the target consumer. Realistically, there are only so many places straps can be attached before it becomes inconvenient and uncomfortable. However, there is plenty of room for clever design innovation.

The basic design finding the greatest widespread popularity with consumers features straps attached at the centre front base of the bra which runs up between the breasts and outwards to connect with the shoulder straps. Another style meeting immense success is the demi-cup design which features straps running

12 I June 2017

Cosabella

Showpo

Showpo

from the inner and outer edges of the cups diagonally up to a ring at the top of the breast which attaches to the shoulder strap.

For designers and buyers looking to incorporate this trend into an existing product line or store, there are many practical aspects of design and function to keep in mind. Knowing your consumer and what they are looking for in a fashion bralette is essential to your success. The more complex the strap placement, the more the garment risks becoming fetish-wear and alienating the average consumer.

Mixing precise lace placement with delicate straps is a good way to ensure bras do not scare away the more hesitant or conservative purchasers of the trend. Thicker or more industrial-looking straps generally lend more of a fetish aesthetic, while thinner straps have more of a subtle, feminine look. Additionally, ensure strap placement is comfortable for the wearer and easy to wear underneath clothing.

There are two general price points at which strappy bralettes are popular, which are indicative of the two slightly differing consumers. The investment consumer is interested in a high-quality piece of lingerie which has a unique design and highquality production. This consumer is looking for lingerie at the middle to higher price point. These consumers are not limited to a specific age demographic and may spend more time searching for different options to find the right garments for them.

Lingerie for these consumers typically comes from a more muted colour palette - black, white, blush and khaki are the most popular. Although adding in a rich colour for a seasonal design will also work. The key is to always maintain an air of mature sophistication. These higher-end consumers are likely to wear a strappy bralette peeking from a plain white t-shirt, or underneath a semi-sheer, high-necked blouse. Lingerie is gaining momentum as an inclusive garment category which can be worn and enjoyed by people of any age or size, perceived sizeism can quickly alienate consumers. These customers are looking for a more specialised experience, retail assistants who are trained in lingerie fitting will have an advantage, as well as a store environment where the consumer will feel relaxed and comfortable.

Additional flourishes, like folding lingerie in beautiful tissue, or sending out thoughtful emails to customer lists with new product arrivals will be appreciated and gain customer loyalty and repeat purchases.

Conversely, lingerie is also finding a home in the fast fashion high-street stores.

The purchasers of strappy bras at these larger stores are generally younger and are less concerned with quality and fit. Cup cuts are often a triangle bikini design and sizing often goes from small to large, or even in numerical sizes, rather than using traditional sizing. This younger consumer considers the strappy bra more of a statement and wears it in a more visible manner.

As a result, the colour palettes can be more vibrant, although staying within the trending seasonal hues is advisable so that purchases can seamlessly integrate statement lingerie into your store. In this situation, the purchase of a bralette may be an add-on to a consumer’s existing purchase. In-store positioning is vital; by the fitting rooms, counter, or styled underneath a sheer shirt will encourage interest.

Overall, it is important to assess your consumer and your existing product lines before jumping into lingerie. Who is your existing customer and why do they come to your store? What are they purchasing lingerie for? What quality are they looking for or what quality are other garments in your product line? What will set you apart from the other major players in the game?

ASOS

Love and Lemons

Pleasure State

Lonely

Iydia Liu

LUXE FITNESS

Growing up on Auckland’s North Shore, Iydia Liu attended Kristin School, finished her last two years at Rangitoto College before studying at the University of Auckland. Liu is very creative and said she has always loved fashion. Today, she runs her own business that continues to move from strength to strength in the activewear category.

“My childhood was great, both of my parents are really supportive,” explained Liu. “I began selling things online at quite a young age, in particular buying and reselling clothing.” Liu thought it was an excellent way to make money; to list a product, sit around and then it was sold and all she had to do was send it off. At the time, it seemed so much more appealing to her than working a 40-hour week in an office and Liu believes this is why she stuck to it.

Liu’s father was an architect and also loved art. He was the one that got her into art from a young age where she also picked up her love for fashion and clothing. She knew growing up that she was businessminded, but never thought to run her own business.

“Throughout school and university, they don’t really give you that as an option.

There is no class to take that teaches you how to run a business, only classes that push you towards a certain

@katemoss

@bellahadid

job, which is a shame really,” she explained.

Liu’s initial plan was to do a Business and Law conjoint at university, but when she discovered the online retailer Nastygal and founder Sophia Amoruso’s story, Liu wanted to be like her. “That’s when I decided I wanted to start my own online clothing retail store.”

Influenced by celebrities, Liu keeps up with the latest style and finds herself inspired by other young people with successful businesses such as Greta Rose Van Riel, Sophia Amoruso, Jane Lu, and Jake Millar.

Jumping into the industry, at first she noticed health and fitness was on the rise on social media. Liu saw other brands from the UK, US and Europe pushing their protein powders and supplements online and thought it was a great idea to bring those products to the New Zealand and Australian market.

Now ten months in, her first product was protein powder. “Then we added a few more bits and pieces, but we are going to keep it simple and stick to our staple products rather than branching out too much,” Liu added. These ‘bits and pieces’ include the launch of her activewear collection. Liu starts her days early by going to the gym. Afterwards, she starts work by printing off the brand’s orders and throughout the day just co-ordinates with her team to make sure everything is running smoothly. Liu has found that she wears more activewear in winter. “It’s just so comfortable,” she said.

Liu’s biggest accomplishment has been making international news with her story and said it has been great to get some recognition for her hard work. She also added that getting her business to the point it’s at now at her young age is another accomplishment. “My parents are very business minded, and I’ve always loved to buy and sell things from a young age. I think those combined really gave me the confidence and ability to do what I have done,” she added.

Social media is a huge part of Luxe Fitness. “I’ve tried most forms of marketing,” she said. “But Found that social media is the cheapest for the most amount of conversions, so our work is very social media related.”

Moving forward with the brand, Liu is moving the business into a warehouse and plans to set up an art station in her current office when they move.

@float_swim

@lonelylingerie

@stone_cold_fox

@sunniesstudios

@zimmermann

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I 13

otis eyewear In Western Australia particularly, there is always a demand for high-quality durable sunglasses. Prior to OTIS most of the products in the market at the time were sportorientated and used plastic polycarbonate lenses. Established in 2000, OTIS Eyewear’s goal was to create more stylish products and wanted better quality and more durable lenses. OTIS Eyewear started with a firm focus on product quality and that’s still what drives them today. They started in pure surf channels, and progressed into new markets as the brand evolved.

Winner of Sunglass of the Year at the SBIA Surf Industry Awards two years in a row, the team said it was all thanks to their focus on quality and sales performance. Using mineral glass for the lenses, which is the best in terms of optics, clarity and durability. Still evolving, the release of their latest L.I.T lens this year is inarguably the highest-quality lens on the market. “We build the products, then goals.

Not the other way around.”

Visit www.otiseyewear.com

towelling it

The concept for the brand started when Emma Wilson was at the beach with some friends, using two towels for herself and thought it would be great if they could have larger towels. Towelling It launched in 2014 and unlike the standard beach towel, these towels boast a one metre by two metre measurement.

Using eco-friendly dyes, the towels are 100 percent cotton with a functional pocket for keys, phones, sunglasses and so on. The duo behind Towelling It is Wilson and her fiancé Reid Jarvie; together they run

the business from home.

Wilson also works with her step-sister to create the designs. It’s important for the brand to be unique and stand out from other towels on the market while still maintaining an eco-friendly business and to keep waste to a minimum. Towelling It is looking to move into the corporate market where they can design custom towels for other businesses. The next step is world domination, one towel at a time.

Visit www.towellingit.nz

oscar wylee wild heart jewellery

Having always shared a deep affinity with the ocean, Wild Heart Jewellery creators Julie and Samara Baunach draw inspiration from Mother Nature when designing each exclusive jewellery piece. Based on the shores of Gold Coast’s pristine beaches, the earthy tones of Wild Heart Jewellery’s one of a kind coastal luxe jewels ring true to their mantra of an environmentally conscious empowered freedom. Crystals, driftwood and natural stones combine to emanate the rustic mystique of handcrafted adornments – rich with intrinsic stories where earth meets sea. A representation of Australia’s raw landscape, Wild Heart Jewellery provides solace to the bohemian beach-lover seeking a new and exciting adventure. Velvet Underground marks their latest collection and introduces a new elegance to the boheme. Redefining coastal creations, Wild Heart Jewellery are pioneering a tropical luxe shift in their repertoire. This transformation is set to take you on a wistful voyage filled with dreamy whimsicality, drama and romance. Visit www.wildheartjewellery.com or contact Samara at hello@wildheartjewellery.com

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Oscar Wylee has prioritised giving back to the global community through its “I Care for Eye Care” initiative. As a non-profit partner, the brand provides people ailed with vision impairment with access to affordable eye care.

In addition to this, in 2016 they donated over $10,000 on World Sight Day to its charity partner, Sight For All. Director, Jack Teoh recognised the importance of greater outreach and awareness of vision impairment. “With vision impairment cases growing around the world, creating conversations surrounding World Sight Day addresses important facets of the vision care crisis and a chance to educate the public on blindness prevention,” Teoh explained.

Oscar Wylee started five years ago after the founders couldn’t understand why buying a pair of sunglasses cost nearly as much as a mobile phone. Products for the brand were designed to challenge the market’s monopoly in the optical industry. With six showrooms in Australia already, the brand has a mash up of physical and digital retailing to provide a competitive edge. With expansion plans interstate, Oscar Wylee understands that they need to provide an engaging shopping experience at every opportunity. Visit www.oscarwylee.com.au or contact Joseph Dang at pr@oscarwylee.com

Peter Alexander

Animals have always been Peter Alexander’s passion. Born in South Africa, he moved to Melbourne when he was a baby and has lived there ever since.

As a child, Alexander explained that he always failed and was no good at sports either, but was loved by his family and small circle of friends. Alexander never attended university as he struggled with learning disabilities since he was a kid. “When I finished school, I decided that university wasn’t for me,” he said. Alexander added that a formal education is no longer 100 percent necessary in this industry. “Having said that, it would always help as knowledge is power to an extent. I think that personality and passion can count for more than work experience and training.”

In the early days of Peter Alexander, he would take a suitcase of samples to buying appointments. Alexander would sell his range to buyers which he added was no easy feat. “Introducing a new brand is always hard but if you have something new to say, fashion people will listen because it’s an industry that survives on newness and reason to buy.”

Penelope, Alexander’s beloved dachshund, entered his life in 1997 when he was out for lunch. He saw her in a window of a pet shop and was horrified to see such a beautiful puppy had been marked down. “When I arrived back at work I said, ‘I got a hot dog for lunch!’”

After that, she became the mascot for the brand. “She’s a lot prettier than me!” Alexander joked.

Peter Alexander joined the Just Group in 2000 before being stocked in their first department store, MYER. In 1990, an unfortunate incident happened where 2,000 pairs of pyjamas were cancelled. “When this happened, I really had to think on my feet.” Alexander had to quickly think on his feet and tried to find a way to turn this disaster into an opportunity. “Mail order seemed like the best way to sell all of this stock, and so the Peter Alexander catalogue business was born. From a department cancelling my order and my business almost folding it lead me to a new adventure, direct mail.”

The first Peter Alexander store opened in Melbourne Central in 2004, which was quickly followed by Chadstone. Now the brand has 112 stores across Australia and New Zealand. Since its conception, the brand has evolved from ladies’ sleepwear to now being a men’s, children’s, women’s and lifestyle brand.

The brand communicates with its customers mainly through social media via their Facebook and Instagram.

Customers on their Sweet Dreams mailing list also receive ongoing communication from the team about

the launch of each new collection. They are also first to access any special sales events. He added that their store teams are also talking to their customers. “We always try to take on board what our customers are saying to the teams at our stores. Whether that is feedback about a certain collection or a style of pyjama and we do get a lot of requests!”

The physical stores are all about the Peter Alexander experience that bring the catalogues and other products to life. The stores are created to engage with their customer’s senses on all levels – to be able to feel the fabrics and smell candles and hand creams. “I want people to walk out thinking they had a fun and unexpected experience, even if they didn’t buy anything.”

However, he added that online is obviously a completely different story. Their online world is more about convenience and is great for their overseas customers who don’t live close to one of the brand’s stores.

Alexander spends his spare time with his dogs, watching trashy TV and sleeping. The sleepwear brand has now entered its dirty thirties, Alexander said there is a lot on the horizon. “Always growing, both personally and professionally or life would be boring!”

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I 15

All in One

In the age of Instagram, swimwear is taking on a new position of importance in consumer’s wardrobes. Gone are the days of slipping into a plain black swimsuit for a trip to the beach, new season swimwear is made to be seen.

W

hile bikinis will never go out of style, the one-piece swimsuit has had a huge resurgence in popularity, and swimwear designers are making the most of the opportunity with bright colours, catchy slogans, ruffles, and vintage aesthetics. When it comes to beach-ready style, there is nothing better than a statement one-piece which captures social media attention and scores instant style points.

Private Party’s slogan swimsuits breathed life into the one-piece scene when they first became available. Favoured by influencers, Private Party’s use of a single, simple swimsuit design in a series of mostly unchanging colours has acquired cult-like status, aided by their use of funny pop culture slogans like ‘Squad’, ‘I Woke Up Like This’, and ‘Too Blessed To Be Stressed’. Private Party’s whole concept is a departure from the usual seasonal approach of fashion brands; they drop new collections, but do not differentiate these from their previous collections regarding online merchandising. Popular designs from previous collections are still available

Triangl Resene Riptide

16 I June 2017

Solid & Striped Resene Anakiwa

on their website years after their release. While the new drops do feature some new hues, Private Party’s palette generally doesn’t change, and they feature a variety of vivid primary colours; cobalt, red, black, and a lemon colour close to Resene Canary.

Hunza-G’s claim to fame is that they made the iconic cutout dress worn by Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman. However, the British clothing brand has not rested since then, turning their focus to swimwear, although they still produce small clothing collections.

Utilising their signature stretch-crinkle fabric, a thick seersucker lycra mix, the entire range is form-fitting and has an 80’s Hollywood feel. Recently, Hunza-G has collaborated with British fashion blogger/influencer Pandora Sykes, to create their latest swimwear range. The range featured unique new styles, in both bikinis and one-pieces. Permeating our social media feeds, the standout bikini style was a strapless bandeau with

Hunza-G Resene Pursuit

a small white frill embellishing the edges, while their one-piece creations also gained attention, including a one-piece with high cut legs and a frill at the waist. The palette of the collection is bright, ranging edgy lime green to a classic Baywatch red similar to Resene Pursuit.

Triangl burst onto the swimwear scene in 2012, trying to fill a gap in the market for affordable bikinis. Their meteoric rise accelerated with social media and celebrity attention which brought even more sales. Beginning with their iconic neon neoprene designs with black seams, Triangl has moved on in the intervening years, keeping ahead of the trends instead of resting on their laurels – a trap so many brands can fall into after immediate success. Triangl’s latest collection includes low cut bikinis in highquality Italian velvet which is specially crafted for use as swimwear. However, elements of their conceptual aesthetic remain – a cut away onepiece, featuring black and neon turquoise akin to Resene Riptide.

Solid & Striped is another favourite among social media and celebrity influencers. The brand has a set of standard designs, which are recreated in different on-trend colour stories

Private Party Resene Canary

Norma Kamali Resene Del Toro

each season, perfect for the It-Girl’s swimwear wardrobe. Featuring designs which err on the side of skimpy, yet retain their wearability, the retro-inspired designs range from high-rise bikini pants to low-cut one-pieces. The colour palette of Summer 2017 is bright and neon, with thick vertical stripes reminiscent of the 80’s, as well as a few deeper hues, like eggplant and navy. Ombre makes a striking appearance, with neon shades combined to create a statement one-piece, starting with a light neon blue close to Resene Anakiwa and fading into a neon coral shade.

Mara Hoffman’s eponymous label is full of female-friendly clothes in bright, eye-catching colours and patterns. Along with ready-to-wear womenswear and bridal, Hoffman also designs swimwear, in modern yet minimalist cuts. Her designs are deceptively simple and covered in unmissable motifs and illustrations. For Summer 2017, Hoffman offers up a plethora of stand-out patterns from multi-coloured bird illustrations to colourful checks in blues, nudes and a mustard similar to Resene Apache.

Norma Kamali’s edgy aesthetic mixes feminine vintage influences with rocker chic

Lisa Marie Fernandez Resene Bastille

Colours available from

Resene ColorShops

www.resene.co.nz

modernism. The American designer’s swimwear shows a predilection for classic one-piece designs, although her designs range from ruched pieces reminiscent of 1950’s Marilyn Monroe glamour to racy cut-out designs with studded embellishments. In each type of design, Kamali has created yet more options, with subtle variances on the cut, so each customer has ample opportunity to find the design which best suits their body. An asymmetric one-piece in a hue similar to Resene Del Toro is Kamali’s Summer 2017 update of her classic Mio one-piece.

Lisa Marie Fernandez launched her label with only a few swimwear pieces in 2009. Since then it has grown to a bohemian luxury brand, with resort wear and activewear in addition to the now thriving swimwear line. Lisa Marie Fernandez’ Summer 2017 swimwear features on-trend ruffles, with off-the-shoulder and asymmetric cuts. The collection is feminine, with polka dots, seersucker and smocking making subtle appearances. The colours in the collection are soft and retro, black similar to Resene Bastille is the base for white polka dots, along with soft blush and sky blue hues adding to the bohemian aesthetic.

Mara Hoffman Resene Apache

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MOONTIDE

From humble Auckland beginnings in 1980, Moontide have gone from strength to strength and is now stocked in over 50 countries. In the intervening years, Moontide has kept ahead of trends in both fashion and lifestyle, cementing their place among the top echelon of New Zealand swimwear brands. Swimwear can be scary - a fact that Moontide knows well - often

PIHA SWIMWEAR Wild, carefree and ready for adventure - the Piha Swimwear girl is perfectly epitomised by model Zippora Seven, who is returning this summer to her position as the face of Piha Swimwear. Known for their designs inspired by beachy freedom, and named after New Zealand’s wild west coast beach, Piha Swimwear has a new 2017/18 collection, ‘Road Trip’, about to launch for the summer. Made up of four distinctly different collections, with three different drops to keep styles fresh, Piha Swimwear is giving consumers a plethora of options when it comes to beach-ready style.

Piha’s 2017/18 collection is made up of three main drops - Preview, Main Summer and High Summer, which will be available soon to view and purchase.

Across these drops are four different stories featuring must-have trends designed to appeal to a wide variety of consumers. Retailers also benefit from the comprehensive Piha Swimwear ranges, with differing options and cuts to appeal to varying consumer bases.

Piha Swimwear’s designs include classic one pieces, eyecatching macramed bikinis and everything in between, meaning Piha Swimwear has a widespread appeal which transcends demographic groups and fits into differing retail environments.

The Garden Delight story draws on the nomadic gypsy trend, featuring folk-inspired floral prints and blanket stitched hems. Piha’s Boho Stripe story is more sportswear inspired, and features on-trend high necked designs, and edgy long-sleeved one pieces in vibrant, punchy hues, perfect for bold surfer girls. The Textured

18 I June 2017

a swimsuit is the least amount of clothing a woman will wear in a public space. As such, Moontide have focussed their attention on creating garments with an impeccable fit, in order to empower their customers to feel confident and comfortable on the beach. This season, Moontide has gone even further than usual in ensuring their swimwear has the best fit on the market, and have sourced high end fabric from international fabric mills - which will move better with consumers and allow a greater level of comfort.

At over 35 years old, Moontide is no new kid on the block in terms of designing, and their great reputation is a credit to that experience. Constantly seeking inspiration, Moontide’s designs are an amalgamation of trends and new inspiration sources and looks - all imbued with a uniquely Kiwi sense of style. Their designs are practical, yet fashionable; designed for the wearer to make the most out of their summer. From classic one pieces to eye-catching designs in vibrant prints, Moontide is a swimwear brand with something to suit everyone (and guaranteed to stand out on the ’gram).

Moontide’s 2017/18 collection took inspiration from Eastern and Tribal fabrics and designs - with a mix of batik and paisley prints. Alone, these beautiful, unique prints would make a fabulous swimsuit, but Moontide continues to push the envelope. Combined with innovative designs and on-trend cuts, Moontide’s collections are punchy and bold, not afraid of making a statement, and challenging consumers to hit the beach in style. Small details complete Moontide’s offerings the addition of round zip-pulls to crop top styles may seem insignificant, and yet they complete the on-trend

aesthetic and feel of the garments. Accessories are the icing on the cake in the Moontide range. Brightly printed sarongs, and tassel kimonos give consumers additional options, while complimenting the Moontide collection or working as stand alone garments.

Visit www.moontide.com

Solids story has bright colours with intricate macrame details, with a subtle romantic feel, sure to make a statement by the pool or ocean. Retro prints and bold cuts make up their California Dream collection; which is inspired by ice cream hues and vintage Palm Springs vibes. All of the stories feature a variety of cuts, with more subtle designs as well as stand-out designs for the boldest consumer. Imbued with a youthful, energetic feel, Piha Swimwear’s designs are practical and on-trend, allowing the consumer freedom to look fashionable, while being ready for anything. For more information contact nz@pihaswimwear.com or call (09) 551 7720

GENEVIEVE

Genevieve was already an established Australian brand, with an emphasis on hosiery and lingerie, and only a small swimwear division, when Sonia Guarino acquired the brand four years ago. Moving into the role of creative designer for the brand was a natural step for Guarino who had grown up immersed in sewing and design. During childhood sick days spent at home and looking for something to do, Guarino learnt basic skills on a sewing machine - first making items such as aprons, and clothes for dolls, then moving on to create bikinis during her adolescence. It was the satisfaction of creating something tangible, and seeing a design go from an idea to a wearable product that Guarino loved about the sewing and design process. Using patterns from Spotlight, Guarino began flexing her design muscles by modifying patterns to create more original garments. Guarino pursued her love of fashion design, completing study at Melbourne College of Fashion. When taking over the creative reins at Genevieve, it felt only natural for Guarino to return to her early love of swimwear design - now enabled by the technical training under her belt.

Genevieve has a solid bricks and mortar retailing base, with stockists throughout Australia and New Zealand. However, further expansion is on the horizon, with Guarino looking to expand in national and international markets. The recent growth in social media and e-commerce has not had much of an impact on Genevieve yet, owing to the nature of the products and complex needs of their consumers. While Guarino is busy building the brand’s online and social media presence, she is well aware of the inherent difficulties that come with retailing swimwear online. Depictions of the product’s fit and design are important, as the swimwear inevitably looks different on each consumer, and most Genevieve consumers are more comfortable trying on swimwear prior to purchase. Guarino has also innovated Genevieve’s product design features - with an entire range designed to cater to customers who have undergone a mastectomy. The range is designed for women recovering from surgery, with specialist fastenings and cuts which flatter figures and offer special support and coverage with their mastectomy pockets. The designs are female-friendly, but eminently fun - Guarino’s printed designs offer a fashionable approach which is accessible to every woman, whether on the beach or in the pool. Visit www.genevieve.com.au

SALT SWIM Growing up as the youngest of a family of six, Suzy Broad has always been competitive. After leaving Aotea College at fifteen, Broad enrolled at Weltec to study Business Management and Marketing, a subject she found intriguing and graduated from three years later. A modelling contract brought another big change to Broad’s life - taking her to Beijing, where she was fully immersed in the fashion industry. When she returned to Wellington, she started Salt Label and discovered her passion for designing. “The ideas just flowed, and it’s such an amazing feeling drawing something and then a couple of weeks later holding it in your hands as a physical product. I’ve never been able to get so much satisfaction through something so simple,” said Broad. The actual inspiration for Salt Label was Broad’s surf rowing hobby. When her favourite rash vest design was discontinued, she began reaching out to manufacturers to try and get the design remade, and the idea for a minimalist, high-quality swimwear brand was born.

Salt Label is manufactured in Australia and is made entirely of recycled Italian fabrics. The quest for building a sustainable fashion brand is a driving factor for Broad. “Over time I’ve come to realise, it’s not so much about what you do; it’s how you do it,” explained Broad.

“When it comes to fashion, I believe less is more and quality can not be substituted for convenience.” From Salt’s conception, Broad has been fully immersed in online retailing and social media marketing, using her Instagram and Facebook accounts to reach more customers. “Social media is the largest influencer for purchasing goods, and I don’t think it will decline anytime soon,” added Broad. The convenience of an online presence is what she likes about e-commerce, Salt Label is always a few clicks away, and Broad can get a better understanding of her customers through online interaction.

There is a definite plan for the future of Salt, although Broad is keeping details close to her chest for now. Wading further into the surfwear apparel industry is a goal, Broad’s next dream is to design surfboards and sponsor surf athletes. For more information visit www.saltlabel.co.nz

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RÊVE DE RIVE SWIMWEAR Lauren Berteletti grew up between Italy and New York City and has always had a passion for fashion. Berteletti said her mother was very strict with clothing growing up, and gave her a weekly dress code of what she had to choose to wear. Upon graduating from her associates and bachelors, she decided to intern at a multibrand showroom in Milan, and it was working here that she fell in love with the industry, not clothing. Berteletti studied her masters in fashion business at Domus Academy in Milan and now lives in Geneva in Switzerland. Her grandmother was a significant influence on Berteletti as she made her clothing growing up.

Designed and made in Geneva, Berteletti creates all of Rêve de Rive Swimwear’s designs and works with her in-house production team to produce each piece. “It’s part of eco-chic benefits of not over producing,” she added. “I value many things about this practice, but I above all love sustainability and my customers looking and feeling good.” As the head designer and CEO of the brand, Berteletti works with a team of six to create her garments. She also likes to partner with schools for short-term interns. Berteletti launched her label over a year ago entering her niche swimwear market.

During her masters, Berteletti did a thesis of a swimwear concept. “I took that as a base and took my favourite summer pastime, South of France lifestyle to create the concept.” Rêve de

SAUCE SWIM

Rive means ‘dream next to water’ and is part of Berteletti’s concept where customers are at a party and look good next to a body of water whether it’s a pool, ocean or lake. Berteletti explained that e-commerce and social media channels are a great way to market and get sales, but said she prefers magazines and face-to-face meetings to represent and explain her brand to get the best coverage.

Currently stocked in a few boutiques in Europe and online retailers, the brand is also available for purchase online. A physical store is on its way in the future along with a bigger office with more production. Dubai is Rêve de Rive Swimwear’s next goal market. Berteletti finds herself inspired by Coco Chanel as she is the ultimate power woman in the industry.

“She achieved what seemed impossible for her time.

In my life, my mother, my grandmother and my cousin really are my base of strength and influence while I was young. They showed me what it was to be a woman in business, to be a woman, how to overcome the obstacles in life and work and how to set and achieve goals.”

For more information, visit www.revederiveswimwear.com.

Alice Hoffman Ross grew up in London and later moved to the sunny Northern Beaches of Sydney Australia. She now calls Paddington, Sydney home.

“Fashion has always been a part of my life, but I first recognised how passionate I was in high school after getting hands on experience in the industry”.

Hoffman Ross creates the designs and then works with a talented sewer in Sydney where they work closely on creating the perfect bikini. Each piece is sustainably manufactured in Sydney using fine Italian Lycra. “It makes me proud of what we’re creating,” she said.

Hoffman Ross first began the label SAUCE as a labour of love. The SAUCE brand has now grown to a team of

20 I June 2017

six. With Hoffman Ross as designer, she explained that everyone involved has a specific role to play that brings it all to life.

On next steps, Hoffman Ross explained they are excited to be launching next month. The idea is then to grow organically and keep integrity in design and marketing. The team is all about maintaining a boutique feel by creating an exclusive line of limited run separates and keeping the quality premium.

Their collection uses original prints hand sketched by abstract artist Ondine Seabrook, while also integrating incredible textures. They want to create pieces that are a bit more edgy, retro-inspired and pieces that have an emphasis on sex appeal.

For more information visit www.sauceswim.com

ELETRUNKS From his childhood in a small town in Virginia, Michael Walker moved to Tennessee, then Georgia, before finally making his way to the big smoke of New York City. With a degree in International Business and Economics under his belt, Walker worked as a National Account Manager for a conveyor manufacturer selling engineering solutions. With a hunger to see more of the world, expand his viewpoint and spend more time pursuing his love of adventure hobbies, Walker headed to South America which is where his journey to fashion began.

While traversing South America on a motorcycle in 2015, Walker realised traditional men’s underwear was not providing the functionality and comfort he needed in his travels. This realisation inspired Walker to combine design with his engineering background and create an underwear design which helped men

remain positioned in an anatomically correct manner.

Heading back to New York City, Walker set up Eletrunks and presented them for the first time at a FIT fashion show. Having been invited to present his designs only a month before the show, Walker quickly finalised the design and had samples produced, partnering with manufacturers in Brooklyn to test and manufacture his new design. “Eletrunks embodies innovative functionality.

Everything we do is in the effort of making our growing customer base realise the potential of creativity and maximised comfort. This trickles into ethical production and sourcing by manufacturing in the USA to maintain the highest levels of quality available,” explained Walker.

Looking to the future, Walker is business-like and ambitious. Aiming for volume growth of sales through direct sales from their website, and the launch of a wholesaling market plan aimed at physical and online retail stores, Walker wants to disrupt the luxury men’s lingerie market with his innovative new design. “I knew nothing about creating a pattern, sourcing fabric, making samples, finding manufacturers or, for that matter, the steps to get into manufacturing clothing. After starting from zero and building a company, and going from producing a couple hundred at a time to a couple thousand in less than a year, I would say that anything is possible.”

BROKEN LOVERS Abby Sy Soldan was born and raised in Hong Kong before moving to New Zealand for a better lifestyle. Soldan was first introduced to a sewing machine in intermediate. “The first thing I ever made was a cushion. I still remember it like it was yesterday. I just enjoyed making things with fabric, cutting and putting them together.

It sounds cheesy but I just felt like I was in my element,” she said.

Soldan grew up as a creative person with a love for both fashion and music. “After leaving high school, I had to decide my career path. It was either music or fashion, but fashion won my heart,” Soldan explained.

“Being a fashion designer was one goal I wanted to do in life.” She went on to study for a year at NZ Fashion Tech where she learned how to make garments from scratch. Soldan then continued her studies at AUT where

she graduated with a Bachelors Degree in Marketing and Advertising.

With her dream of one day having her own label, Soldan created He Loves Me Not in 2011. This was her first label however, Soldan explained that it didn’t click with her. “It was a more-so concept phase which led me to re-brand my whole idea along the way,” she added.

This led her to launch Broken Lovers where Soldan runs the brand by herself; this includes design, production, advertising, and selling.

“Every piece is made by me from scratch just in my lounge at home,” she explained.

Soldan is working on releasing her new collection Bedtime Stories AW17 this coming month. Focussed on expanding her reach with social media, Soldan is collaborating with bloggers and is in the process of finding stockists who tie in with her brand.

JADE & GEMS Choosing a name for their accessory brand was easy for Gemma Shields and Jade Rayner, who combined their names to launch Jade & Gems. By day, Shields works in her family dive business, and Rayner is a commercial drain layer, so Jade & Gems functions as a creative outlet and a way to indulge their love for the fashion industry.

Working closely with suppliers is an important part of Jade & Gems’ business. The brand started when Shields was scouring the internet to find a handbag she wanted but found a lack of brands which created the bags she liked or shipped to New Zealand. Spurred on by this market gap, Shields found a manufacturer and began importing the bags herself, and Jade & Gems was born. Shields currently works with her manufacturers on new designs, as well as buying the authentic designs which come from the individual villages, many of which Shields and Rayner have visited. Sustainable business practices are of utmost importance to Shields, who wants her customers to have the best shopping experience, as well as getting products which have been made ethically with high-quality materials.

Soon after officially starting their business, Shields reached out to They All Hate Us, an Australian fashion blog she had been following for years, and they began working together. Shields would like to work with more fashion bloggers, although having her customers enjoy their bags gives her the most satisfaction. While their short-term goal is to grow sales through their e-commerce store, Shields envisions a physical Jade & Gems store as the long-term goal. Both inspired and optimistic, Shields explains her approach to fashion and retail; ‘once you start, you must keep going and make sure you are consistent. From the little things such as frequent Instagram posts and updating product photos to bigger things like new designs, quick responses to your customers and shipping items out promptly. There is a lot of competition out there, and the ones that do well are the ones that are consistent.’

SILK LAUNDRY Growing up in Canada, Katie Kolodinski moved to Australia at the age of 18 where she continued her studies in fashion illustration and industrial sewing. Kolodinski has always had a love of fashion. “I often found myself altering and adjusting vintage clothing to suit my taste, and being very into the quality and feel of the fabrics I would wear,” she explained. Her earliest memories of fashion were ones of her mother. “She made all of mine and my sister’s clothing and dresses, ranging from pink taffeta dresses to heavy, beautiful velvets and corduroy dresses.”

Her brand, Silk Laundry, has been running for two and a half years and Kolodinski completes all the fabric sourcing and factory visits. She also oversees the day-to-day running of the business. She works alongside three others where they perform their marketing, branding, design and wholesale all in-house. Kolodinski came up with the idea for Silk Laundry when she struggled to find silk basics in Australia. “The 90’s slip was our first design, and I just wanted to create a brand that could be trusted and consistent with high-quality fabrics,” she added.

Silk Laundry is currently stocked in boutiques across Australia as well as running from their online store. “I would love to keep expanding the range offering, as well as starting beautiful silk blends. Think Silk Cashmere sweaters or gorgeous light silk cotton for summer,” Kolodinski said. Additionally, she is looking forward to having a standalone store and expanding into the North American market.

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I 21

PHOTOGRAPHER: Caitlan Mitchell BEAUTY: Eve Sorenson MODEL: Bianca at N Models FASHION ASSISTANT: Courtney Macris

HOLLEY HOGAN Swimwear

22 I June 2017

HOLLEY HOGAN Swimwear, ADIDAS Track Jacket in White

HOLLEY HOGAN Swimwear, ADIDAS Track Pant in Black

MOONTIDE Zip Racer Back Suit, ADIDAS ORIGINALS Camo Jacket

PHIA SWIM Adjustable Side Pant, ADIDAS ORIGINALS Camo Tee

MOONTIDE Ladder Trim, High Neck Suit

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I 23

CHALMERS

Lazy weekends spent sleeping in and watching Netflix in bed are becoming a whole lot more stylish, thanks to an artist turned sleepwear designer. The renaissance of the classic pyjama, with its elegant button down shirt and effortlessly comfortable drawstring pants, is truly upon us. When combined with an eyecatching print, and cut from soft, comfortable fabrics, you’re looking at up-and-coming Australian pyjama powerhouse, Chalmers.

Nicholas Chalmers is the Australian artist and surfer behind the popular pyjama brand.

From the beaches of Australia, Chalmers’ designs have rapidly grown in popularity; their stockists currently include Smith and Caughey’s in New Zealand, David Jones and The Iconic in Australia, Selfridges in the UK and a smattering of boutiques across New Zealand, including Father Rabbit. Their Instagram is brimming with shots of their comfortable, vibrant sleepwear and hums with positive vibes.

Chalmers’ latest collection, ‘Welcome Home’, is inspired by feeling comfortable throughout the home – not just when getting ready for bed. It celebrates the in-between moments of life; lazing around the house on weekends, movie marathons, and slowly drinking coffee before dressing for the day. Chalmers’ approach to pyjamas elevates them to leisurewear status, leaving the boundary of the bedroom (and

Victoria Cooper-Smith

MARKETING EXECUTIVE, THE SHELTER

Born and raised in Auckland, Victoria Cooper-Smith grew up in Westmere and has lived around Ponsonby, Grey Lynn and Westmere her whole life.

24 I June 2017

“We have a lot of family friends who are artists and designers, and I was always around them and their work growing up, so I think that really steered me towards a creative career. That coupled with my mum’s super-organisation and my dad’s business brain is definitely why I have ended up doing what I do,” Cooper-Smith explained. Studying fashion at AUT gave her the creative drive and problem-solving skills she uses every day.

Cooper-Smith looks after the marketing and events for both Taylor and The Shelter; she added that the job is extensive and varied. “It’s hard to briefly summarise everything it entails, but basically I work closely with Vicki to look after both brands, ensuring everything we do is keeping them ontrack.”

It was meeting Vicki Taylor that inspired her to seriously consider a career in fashion. Cooper-Smith has always loved fashion and clothes but working with Vicki for such a long time has taught her so much and only fuelled her love this industry.

She has been working with Taylor for six years now and originally started part-time in retail.

Cooper-Smith has worked in every part of the business and has finally found her place in a fulltime role in communications. She joined the team at the young age of 17 and hadn’t really worked anywhere else apart from some small odd jobs.

The most valuable lesson she has learned thus far is to roll with the punches. “In such a fast-paced and reactive industry you have to be able to change the plan at a moment’s notice and turn up with a smile

its associated attire) behind.

While supplying a variety of international stockists is a long-term goal for most brands, and rapidly becoming a reality for Chalmers, the greatest challenge in satisfying their growing global markets lies within the seasonality of their collections. Chalmers have innovatively responded, by becoming firmly trans-seasonal, with collections made up of sleepwear spanning from winter-appropriate styles to lighter, more summery styles. The trans-seasonal collections cater to the needs of their diverse markets and have an array of options which suit retailers with differing target markets. Chalmers release two collections per year, each of which is split into three smaller, succinct stories. This means customers see new Chalmers designs every two months. The next collection is titled ‘The Great Outdoors’, and is anticipated to land in stores in August.

Chalmers’ design aesthetic is a mixture of classic styles and contemporary elements - blending leisurewear and sleepwear, in fabrics which will be comfortable and easy-to-wear for consumers.

The Brit Pant is the current consumer favourite from the ‘Welcome Home’ collection and features a contemporary, culotte silhouette. Chalmers uses only high-quality fabrics, including a 100% cotton poplin, bamboo and cotton blend and bamboo cotton french terry. Breaking free of the bedroom, Chalmers is scaling the heights of sleepwear style and lending a little piece of relaxed luxury to consumers around the globe.

on like nothing happened,” Cooper-Smith said.

Working one day a week in retail, Cooper-Smith explained that she loves spending time with their clients and collaborators. The range of collaborations between the brands has never ceased to amaze her, especially when it comes to the level of creative talent New Zealand produces. Every day is different and when events roll around Cooper-Smith said things get a little crazy in the office.

A normal day would involve liaising with media and stylists, planning upcoming events and working on their brand strategy. She also plans and posts social media and web content with their online team as well as catching up with the retail teams and analysing figures. “I always make time for a brief catch up with Vicki, or we share ideas across our open plan office when inspiration strikes,” she added.

Working in a small and tight team, she explained that it’s hard not to affect change in most things she does among the brands. “I really do think the Taylor brand has grown significantly in the last few years and I’ve definitely grown with it.” She is very proud of everything The Shelter has done by bringing together a creative community of collaborators and making new work.

Cooper-Smith is excited about the work they are creating at Taylor and The Shelter, and when the time is right, she’ll head overseas on her own adventure. “I’d love to run my own PR agency, maybe overseas, but who knows where this crazy ride will take me.”

THE PERFECT FIT Fit models are an increasingly invisible part of the fashion industry; a standardised body on which to test clothes, of which the ultimate consumer is unaware.

The history of the fit model in New Zealand (sometimes known as a house model) was for a long time intertwined with runway and photographic models, and fit models would often also work in some capacity in the fashion office. As runway model’s bodies have changed, fit model bodies have remained largely the same - thus leading to the split between the two. Fit models typically have to have specific body measurements which fit with standardised sizing and helps with grading.

However, the measurements of models required is really up to the discretion of the brand they’re working for, who may have different requirements based on the size of their average consumer. But fit models are more than just a living mannequin - their design input is also invaluable, as they can give insight into problems which may arise for consumers, sleeves that are too tight, skirts which are uncomfortable to sit down in, or fabric which doesn’t feel good against skin.

However, the fashion industry now faces more challenges and changes than ever before - increased fast fashion means that designs need to be turned around quicker and the growth of the body positivity movement has put pressure on designers to create a wider variety of sizes.

So, where do fit models fit in? We asked a few New Zealand experts for their opinion on the matter…

Doris de Pont of the New Zealand Fashion Magazine has heard a lot of stories about fit models.

Originally, fit models usually worked in fashion offices, often as the secretary, and were a necessity for all fashion designers. Entire collections used to be modelled for department store buyers by fit models. The change came in the 1990’s, she believes, and was the result of import and export changes New Zealand manufacturers began selling more to Australian companies, and New Zealand consumers began buying more clothes which had been made off-shore.

The Australian consumers followed American trends more closely than New Zealand had, and were interested in vanity sizing, a “slippery slope” according to de Pont. The average size of a fit model used to be a size 12, which is now, of course, a size 8. However, it’s less standard now to use a fit model, and de Pont thinks they are more popular with brands who make uniquely shaped garments, such as

PHOTO CREDIT: NZ Fashion Museum

lingerie and need to check very specific fits.

Ruby and Liam use a standard size 8 fit model, in order to have a standardised starting point, which is important in critiquing designs. Designing requires feedback, says general manager, Christine Sharma.

The body is “an irregular shape and a moveable object” meaning garments must be tested for fit and movement.

In addition to a standard fit model, the Ruby office staff range from size 6 to 14, and they regularly try on garments samples. According to Sharma, “as grading goes up, the bodies don’t change proportionally”, so trying garments on a range of sizes in the office provides useful feedback on grading, which Ruby and Liam still get done manually.

Additionally, the feedback provided by the fit model is taken into account - especially in regards to the feel of the garment and comfort. Sitting, walking and moving is important to find out about the practicality of garments. When asked about the future of fit models, Sharma was confident that fit models will always be vitally important within the fashion industry, even if the design process becomes more technology-based. Because of the physical and practical nature of the product, it will always need to be tested, “technology won’t change the end use... and the methodology won’t change. They’re just necessary”.

World doesn’t use fit models, according to Denise L’Estrange Corbet, who said World got their fit down very early on, and have used the same measurements ever since, save for small changes in measurement “as people got taller.” They have never felt the need to use a fit model, although they do occasionally get staff members who are around standard size to try on garments, if there are questions about fit.

L’Estrange Corbet has previously worked with fit models in London, before starting World, and

. . . as grading goes up, the bodies don’t change proportionally, so trying garments on a range of sizes in the office provides useful feedback on grading, which Ruby and Liam still get done manually.

seemed surprised that fit models are still used. As pattern making is increasingly being done all online, with precise computer measurements, L’Estrange Corbet believes there will be less need for fit models, as the fit can be done with correct measurements and graded without need for a model to test.

So what is the consensus? Fit models are disappearing from some brands, but other designers swear by them. Body shapes haven’t changed, but vary between designers based on the target customer.

And increasingly, it looks like having someone in the office try on samples seems to be the norm, which may be slightly less standardised, but also give a wider range of feedback from people with different body shapes.

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I 25

Ursula Cervellone

FOUNDER, FEATHER BROW COUTURE

“In an industry that has been called fickle and shallow, I’m proud to be rebuilding women’s self-esteem, changing the way women feel about themselves, through the art of cosmetic eyebrow tattoos. I’m founder of Feather Brow Couture and I’m an experienced eyebrow specialist. I’ve built my business on my sensitivity to the value of, and appreciation for the perfectly arched brow.

During the pregnancy with my first son, I developed an autoimmune disease, Alopecia, which resulted in my eyebrow hair falling out. In my efforts to mask the baldness and recover my selfconfidence, I sought the help of the best eyebrow

tattooists of the time and sadly, the results were heartbreakingly less than perfect.

Initially I visited the studio of one of the best tattooists and it would be fair to say that my confidence was in tatters. The results we horrific, there was very little consultation about what my face shape suited, discussion about the outcomes and when I looked in the mirror I was horrified.

Driven by my frustration, I decided to set up a brow bar, I thought to myself ‘I’m not going to let anyone else touch my eyebrows anymore; I’m going to do it myself. I am committed to providing an intimate experience, working hand in hand with my clients to fine tune their vision for their brows, educate them about the process, the after care and potential results before beginning the procedure.

Someday I hope to share my expertise and knowledge through a boutique school for cosmetic tattooists, I’m really passionate about raising the standard for the cosmetic tattooing industry and keen to call out colleges that are graduating students without the necessary education and experience to perform the clinical procedures.

My consultation process involves a thorough measurement of my clients’ anatomy including bone structure, fat pads, face shape and skin tone before making recommendations, developing stencils and testing various styles to enhance my clients’ natural beauty. One of the most important things during the consultation is understanding our language, being clear on our interpretations of a style and making sure that my idea of the word natural is aligned to your idea of natural, or bushy, arched or sculpted – whatever the case may be.

I absolutely love working with older clients,

their skin is so responsive to the treatment and the impact is outstanding, many people remark that they look 10 to 15 years younger. As we age, our eyebrows dip slightly as the soft tissue around the brow loses its fatty deposits – this means the shape that we design needs slightly higher arches. Each design is truly customised to ensure it suits my clients face.

Recently, I’ve founded a program to support and celebrate women of courage and strength. The program receives hundreds of nominations from the community, and I now have the difficult task of narrowing these down to a handful of candidates who receive a complimentary Feather Brow Couture transformation. These transformations change the lives of women who have experienced hair loss and skin damage often as a result of cancer or fire damage.”

a slim woven raffia or leather strap is favoured for cross-body styles. The style is unashamedly seasonal, and adds a quirky, beachy touch to summer outfits.

Straw bags appeal to the fashion forward consumer, who appreciates the vintage look, without the hassle of trawling through vintage stores.

The trend is a one-season fling, so price points are best kept mid-range, although higher quality or handwoven designs can command a higher price point in the right store. Integrate straw handbags into your store in beachy edits, combined with bright, round-rimmed sunglasses, beachy slides, and retro-inspired swimwear.

THE LAST STRAW

Beachy, retro vibes are heating up for the summer one of the most popular microtrends is going to be straw bags. Of course, oversized woven beach bags aren’t going out of style anytime soon, but their smaller, kitschier cousins are a microtrend set to gain major style points with consumers in the coming season. The look is vintage inspired (Etsy sells these babies by the truckload) and adorable. The bags are woven raffia or jute, smallish, and often in an unusual or distinctive shape.

Bright embellishments are essential, in the form of pom-poms, floral decorations, Zara shells or coloured raffia woven into the designs. Short plastic or wooden handles are popular for a vintage handbag shape, or Bambien

26 I

Caffe

June 2017

Kayu

Loeffer Randal

Jadetribe

Soludos

Nannacay

Lorna Jane Clarkson CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER, LORNA JANE

Jordan Barron RED 11

When Jordan Barron was just 18, a normal night with friends at a bar in Christchurch took an unexpected turn when his now current agent Brya Windleburn from Red11 approached him with her business card.

After Windleburn sent Barron’s photo to the director of the agency, he met with the team in Auckland and was signed from there. Now part of the Red11 family, Barron said that he sees Windleburn like a second

Born in England, Lorna Jane Clarkson moved to Australia with her sister and mother when she was 10-years-old. When they arrived, Clarkson fell in love with the lifestyle and was obsessed with spending time outside riding her bike and running around with her sister. “I think that’s what sparked my passion for health and fitness,” Clarkson said. “It was so cold in England that I spent most of my time there curled up inside reading, so moving here was a massive lifestyle change.”

Before starting Lorna Jane, Clarkson worked as a dental therapist. She explained that at the time she hadn’t quite figured out what she wanted to do with her life and was trying out a few different things.

Aerobics was huge then and she loved it so much that she trained as an instructor and taught at her local gym after work and on the weekends.

Clarkson had always been interested in fashion and in high school she crocheted bikinis for herself and her friends. With no formal training in fashion, Clarkson taught herself and said it kind of went from there. When she was teaching aerobics, she couldn’t find any activewear that inspired her to work out and decided to create her own. When Clarkson wore them to classes, the women loved them and asked if they could place orders. It all started with custom leotards, which Clarkson said are ‘definitely not available now’, but explained that a lot of women who were her original customer told her they still have them 28 years later.

Her husband is the CEO of Lorna Jane and together they oversee and approve everything including international jobs. “I know it sounds cliché, but no two days in my life are ever the same,” Clarkson added. On any given day, she can be found

doing anything from design fittings and marketing meetings, right through to writing for her latest book.

Sometimes she visits schools to inspire young girls with her Active Living Philosophy. “It can feel chaotic and overwhelming at times, but I absolutely love it and wouldn’t have it any other way.”

The brand proudly boasts 208 stores across 18 countries and worldwide shipping online for those she hasn’t already reached. Lorna Jane releases 70-100 new styles every month and has been running for 28 years.

Clarkson is currently putting the finishing touches on her fifth book which will be released in September this year.

mum and claims that her number is to this date probably the best he has ever received.

Wanting to complete his degree in Finance, Accounting and Commercial Law at the Victoria University of Wellington meant that Barron started off in the industry on a part-time basis, modelling only in his holidays and downtime. Now, at 23-yearsold, Barron has been working full-time for more than a year and along with agency Red11. He is also signed internationally with Established in London, Mega in Berlin and Chic in Sydney.

Hailing from Huntingdon in England, Barron and his family moved to New Zealand when he was 12-years-old. While his parents aren’t too familiar with the fashion industry, (his father is a teacher and his mother runs her own business) they are always incredibly proud. “My mum loves to tell all her friends what I’m getting up to. I recently did the Barkers campaign and I think she is getting the big poster of me.” His parents, along with godfather Barney, have been his biggest role models growing up. “They have always told me that talent only gets you so far but hard work opens so many more doors. These are the people who still inspire me as I know how hard they have worked to get where they are. Nothing is given to you and every successful person has had to put hard work in,” explained Barron. Also in the family are two younger brothers, one studying Law and Criminology in Wellington and the other a gifted sportsman and academic in high school. Barron is close with both brothers and supportive of their achievements, joking that they take after him with their talents.

After starting his career in New Zealand, modelling

has since taken Barron around the world and given him a well-rounded experience. “New Zealand is a boutique version of overseas but still competitive and you have to keep in shape to look your best,” he added. Although LA, Japan and Europe are amongst the places in the pipeline for the future, Barron is currently located in Sydney and happily focusing on work there for the time being.

Barron has already worked with many impressive names including the likes of Remix and Men’s Health magazines, General Pants, The Iconic, Stirling Sports and he’s even made it into film, appearing in The Changeover which was shown at the Cannes Film Festival this year. APC is at the top of Barron’s list of dream brands to work with in the future.

Barron feels lucky to have fallen into the industry and claims his favourite part is meeting people that he otherwise would not get the chance to. “I’m modelling today to meet new people, expand my network and have fun. Your job is to be healthy and I get to do some of the most amazing experiences travelling around the world.” Barron said that the main challenge he faces is balancing work with his social life and his advice to aspiring models would be simply to have fun with it and run with opportunities.

If he wasn’t modelling today, Barron would be putting his degree to use and working within the finance sector. “I previously worked in the private equity industry while I was in London, it was a fantastic experience mixing with CEO’s of large corporations. Property is something I am considering in the future but for now I am focusing fully on modelling.”

The brand proudly boasts 208 stores

across 18 countries and worldwide shipping online for those she

hasn’t already reached.

Lorna Jane releases 70100 new styles every month and has been

running for 28 years.

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I 27

28 I June 2017

What’s the cost of not being cool?

Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITED

Sexy speeds of newness, hotter-thanthe-sun trends and marketing fronted by youthful creatures with pastel colored locks: fast fashion retail is catnip to millennial shoppers.

These consumers, and the retailers who cater to them, get a huge amount of industry attention. The lucky beggars have a ton of product targeted to them and can buy it for not much money. So shouldn’t we all be chasing after them?

Steady on. Millennials don’t represent the entire market. Nor do they have the bulk of the dollar to spend – baby boomers outstrip them when it comes to consumption.

With so much attention focused on millennials, what does it cost to not be cool?

We can use data to pinpoint that. However, the millennial range is vast and needs some splicing. At the top end, a millennial is 34 and may not be shopping for furry backpacks and bunny ears so frequently. We’ll focus on the sub-30s millennial market (acknowledging the need for a term for ‘older millennials’).

Price point seems like a simple divide – but it’s not nuanced enough. Not every shopper can, or wants, to spend more on apparel as they get older. In fact, with a greater sense of self, non-millennial consumers may be less trend hungry and more inclined to spend less on apparel.

Instead we’ve honed in on solely the mass market, which characteristically, caters to all. From there we’ve divided up those retailers who target the youth market (like ASOS, Zara, Boohoo, Topshop, Forever 21,

Urban Outfitters and New Look) and the mass market retailers who don’t (like Banana Republic, Loft, Macy’s, Debenhams, Next and Monsoon).

These two sets of retailers often sell in the same spaces or on the same streets, and in the consumers’ mind have a commonality around price. What’s the reality?

denim jackets and the other black skinny jeans. On the mass market, there’s much of a muchness between the look and quality of these items. Yet consistently, the non-millennial price range not only skews higher, but it is more developed in its weighting.

A SIMPLE READ ON RETAIL PERFORMANCE

Even if specific products are comparable, millennial retailers have a very different category emphasis to their non-millennial counterparts. While millennial retailers stock heaviest into the dress category, accounting for 23% of the assortment, non-millennial retailers have this at fourth priority, accounting for 11% of the mix.

Non-millennial retailers prioritize accessories, which make up 30% of the mix. Millennial retailers shunt that emphasis down to 13%. That shows that millennial retailing is a whole lot more than marketing, of course, it’s a full merchandise strategy.

Right away, we can get a strong sense of the striking character differences at millennial and non-millennial retailers. For starters, stuff moves fast at the millennial retailers, taking an average 119 days to sell out compared to the non-millennial 166 days.

That’s pretty appealing, right? However, you’ll need to be able to replenish fast if you want to tap into this market. Millennial retailers replenish more readily, with 14.5% of styles restocked, compared to 9.6% at the non-millennial retailers.

Discounting is different too, with 34% of millennial product currently discounted, compared to 42% of non-millennial product. Despite the smaller proportion of discounted millennial goods, the discounts are deeper. In millennial retail, 42% of discounts are of more than 50% off. At non-millennial retailers, it’s just 29% of reductions in these higher brackets.

THEN THERE’S PRICE

On average, products at millennial retailers cost half what it costs at other retailers in the mass market.

Millennial retailers sit at an average price of $24.88 and non-millennials $48.16. I suppose it’s only fair given millennials will need a spare $19 for their avocado on toast. We compiled a shopping basket including a bomber jacket, espadrilles, long-sleeved t-shirt, lace dress, knit sweater and backpack. On average, it would cost a millennial shopper $240.14. The tax for not being a millennial? A total of $503.94 at nonmillennial retailers.

PLUS, PRODUCT ISN’T EVEN THAT DIFFERENT

A UNIQUE ASSORTMENT

CORE DIFFERENCES

Looking at the age of product currently in stock is the biggest data reveal. Given how the industry conversation focuses on the speed-to-market of millennial retailers, you might expect the bulk of these retailers’ assortments to be in their infancy.

That’s not the case. In fact, there’s a higher proportion of the non-millennial offering that was new in the last month than millennial. Instead, millennial retailers have a really even balance between stock that arrived three, six and 12 months ago.

The age of retailers’ stock is emphasised in these charts.

68% of non-millennial retailers’ stock arrived more than a year ago.

The biggest character difference is the proportion of older product. That’s the main focus of non-millennial retailers – 68% of the current offering arrived more than one year ago. Just 13% of millennial product has been around this long.

What it boils down to is core items with a deep buy.

The mass market excels at this, hence the focus. They’re able to consistently restock on items which they know sell well. Millennial retailers buy in less depth, across a more trend-driven assortment, so stuff moves through its lifespan faster.

GET WITH THE YOUTH?

You might think that millennial stuff is cheaper because it’s wear-once or skimpier or a whole lot more flammable. But we were able to pinpoint identikit items that cost the non-millennial market more.

In the two price architectures above, one shows

If you’re thinking of tackling the millennial market, you’ll need to take all of these points into consideration. Certainly there are a host of retailers doing this brilliantly.

What this data also shows us is that not every retailer should want to go after the millennial market. For starters, your assortment would need a dramatic shift. But the main barrier to entry is the competition around price. If your aim isn’t to cater solely to millennials, there’s a risk you’ll downgrade your positioning with existing non-millennial customers. And if you haven’t got that highly desirable speed of newness, you won’t engage the tricksy millennial either.

Although millennial is a buzzword, it’s not every retailers’ duty to slavishly chase this customer’s’ whims. Instead, use careful analysis to build an offering that is unique to your own shopper. That is what we’d call cool.

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