Apparel Magazine | June 2018

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fashionable films

THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE FACING NZ MADE TODAY Last month, we asked local brand owners that manufacture in New Zealand what are the most significant problems they face in business today. The response was not unexpected, with the most challenging problem coming through as the competition with fast fashion and international e-retailers (such as ASOS). It is hoped that the proposed changes to GST on imported goods will alleviate this to some extent but more needs to be done to support the local fashion industry. Government support would be welcome to help the industry sustain a presence in the NZ Made market. Fashion retailers have fallen into the on-sale trap that is prevalent in New Zealand retailing. Supermarkets are an excellent example of the on-sale mentality, something that New Zealand has in common with the Czech Republic, and this has been detrimental in the FMCG sector for many years. Seeing the fashion industry take the same path is a worry.

Money, money, money - well we know it makes the world go round but lack of capital, poor cash-flow and the increasing cost of manufacturing squeezing profit margins makes for challenging times for most NZ Made brands.

Almost all of the big banks are offering invoice finance along with the more well-known capital raising options from a variety of players in the market. With technology, has come innovation in the area of invoice finance and being able to access up to 80 percent of the face value of approved invoices, the ability to free up cash and reduce relying on more traditional forms of security such as the family home is a welcome option to some brand owners.

The lack of consumer awareness of the practices and working conditions associated with offshore manufacturing and how this differs from local

CHAIRMAN

Peter Mitchell PUBLISHER Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com GENERAL MANAGER Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com STAFF WRITER

Mark Fullerton Georgina Mckimm

Alan Higgs ADVERTISING SALES Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com

2 I June 2018

manufacturing and what this means to the price of a garment is a story that most feel has not been well covered in consumer media. We live in a culture where time and talent is no longer factored into the cost of the garment, and the cheap price tag is more appealing to consumers than a garment made with thought, creativity, longevity of use and good conditions and wages for staff. A big complaint is also the lack of sustainable textiles available locally and the loss of Charles Parsons fabrics recently is a blow to the fashion sector. Genuine local NZ Made competing with those brands that are designed here but made offshore while sustaining the price point is not only a challenge, in some instances, it has been the death of the brand.

Finding skilled staff continues to be a headache for the industry, with many education providers pushing design courses and not specialised training. Lack of specialised machines translates to a shortage of specialised workers. Denim, intimates and swimwear are but a few areas where there is a dearth of skilled talent.

A consumer’s chance of finding a locally made pair of jeans or a bra is practically non-existent. If we can’t manufacture here, then more must be done to educate designers on near-shoring and farshoring. The lack of support for local manufacturing is driving designers off-shore.

Many industry pundits have repeatedly over the past twenty years called for help - hopefully, this government will hear, if we don’t move in the very near future to make changes then the future of the NZ Made fashion industry is hanging by a thread.

caitlan@reviewmags.com @NZAPPAREL

SENIOR DESIGNER GRAPHIC DESIGNER ISSN 1171-2287

Raymund Sarmiento Ciaran Carroll

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2018 NZ Apparel Magazine.

House of Fashion: Haute Couture and the Modern Interior

By Jess Berry

The interior design of a couture house is the reflection of its aesthetics and taste. The Maison de Couture of Charles Frederick Worth, which opened in 1858, was the perfect example of how a brand displayed its style through their interior. Fashion and interior design work as a pair and House of Fashion perfectly depicts how they have and continue to function as a site of performing modern, gendered identities for designers and their customers.

This book will take you to the world of the luxury fashion and show you the crucial role of the salon, the atelier and the boutique with the help of photographs, drawings, advertisements, paintings and illustrations.

Fashioned from Natures

By Edwina Ehrman

With fashion being one of the most harmful industries on our planet, it is a necessity that we learn how to counter these impacts and try to limit the damages. This book without a doubt has its readers question their roles as consumers.

Fashioned from Nature is a well-written book that takes you through subjects from the dependence we have on nature to how fashion has impacted the environment since the 17th century to now.

Examples, illustrations and facts help you understand what is today a major issue for both the people and our environment.

Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination

By Andrew Bolton

The Costume Institute’s current exposition shows the complex and controversial relationship between the Catholicism and Fashion. The 2018 Met Gala paid great tribute to the theme and showcased some incredible gowns inspired by elements of the said religion. Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination is the number one best seller on Amazon at the moment. The two-volume publication features imagery from the Vatican’s rarely seen garments and accessories and creations by renowned designers such as Balenciaga, Dolce & Gabbana, John Galliano, Karl Lagerfeld, Madame Grès and more. Along with the photographs are essays by leading religious authorities and art historians that provide the reader with a viewpoint on the way dress conveys Catholic values and ideology.

Runway Ready?

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fast five

LAST CALL FOR ENTRIES

Walk The Line is calling all young designers to showcase their designs at New Zealand Fashion Week. Walk The Line is a creation of YMCA’s youth development programme, Raise Up, and is the largest event of its kind in New Zealand.

The New Zealand Fashion Week event is run by youth, for youth.

It provides designers aged 13-18 a chance to be runway ready as they show off their creativity on a world stage in front of the biggest name in fashion industry.

“The 2018 Walk the Line event is a chance for young people to have a say in their own identities and what matters to them,” said Raise Up coordinator, Georgia Brodie. Brodie added that this year the

BANNED BY OVER 140 TOP RETAILERS

E-retailer giant ASOS is the most recent company to join over 140 other top international retailers in banning the sale of all cashmere, silk, mohair, silk, and feathers. Over 50 percent of mohair is sourced from South Africa, and after a new PETA video exposé, it has prompted many retailers to ban the sale of mohair and other products. ASOS sells more than 850 different labels as well as its own brands, and confirmed it will ban cashmere, silk, mohair, and feathers from its entire platform by January 2019.

“PETA applauds ASOS for leading the charge for compassion in fashion,” said Emily Rice, PETA Outreach and Partnerships Liaison. “In response to PETA’s campaigns, consumers are changing the face of the industry by demanding that designers and retailers ditch animal-derived materials in favour of cruelty-

SPICE UP YOUR PACKAGING

Major beauty companies have united to create SPICE, the Sustainable Packaging Initiative for Cosmetics, a collective that aims to actively shape the future of sustainable packaging. Co-founded by L’Oréal and Quantis (environmental sustainability consulting firm), SPICE members are taking measures to progress on the path to sustainability in the beauty industry.

Companies face considerable methodological issues when it comes to measuring the environmental footprint of their products. SPICE is open to new members and those who are cosmetic product manufacturers or packaging suppliers can also join as corporate members.

“L’Oréal’s commitment to be a co-founder of SPICE was driven by the willingness to collectively share on sustainable development progress and to allow cosmetics industry players to work more effectively together,” explained Philippe Thuvien, L’Oréal’s global head of packaging and development.

SPICE will help the cosmetic industry make significant progress in three key areas; sustainable packaging policies, packaging innovation, and improving communication.

“Packaging is key for the cosmetics industry and companies need robust information and recognised frameworks to make resilient decisions. SPICE will be a key factor in driving their sustainability transformation.”

4 I June 2018

team is stepping it up a gear by challenging teens to find their voice through fashion with the theme ‘Be Who You Want To Be’. “We’re asking entrants to submit designs that express who they are and what they want to be rather than what society sometimes wants them to be.”

Design categories include; sustainability, highfashion, streetwear, special theme ‘Be Who You Want To Be’, and an open category.

More than 50 up-and-coming designers will be selected to present their designs on the New Zealand Fashion Week runway on Sunday 2 September.

Entries are open to New Zealand high school students aged 13 to 18. Head to www.raiseup.co.nz to find out more about Walk the Line, including details about design categories and how to submit designs.

Entries close 22 July.

free alternatives that look great without causing suffering.”

Every year these industries exploit countless goats, geese, ducks and silkworms are exploited, causing unnecessary pain and suffering. PETA revealed that most angora goats reared for mohair endure mutilation of their sensitive ears with tattoo pliers, are sheared carelessly and quickly as shearers are paid by volume and not by hour.

Kept in millions, Cashmere goats can be found in China and Mongolia. Their coats are needed to protect them from the bitter cold, but are frequently shorn in midwinter to meet market demand. As a result, many die from exposure, and other goats with ‘defects’ in their coats are killed.

When it comes to feathers, birds are pinned to the ground by workers who violently yank fistfuls of feathers out of their skin as they cry out in pain.

Silkworms are boiled or gassed alive in their cocoons.

It takes approximately 6,600 silkworms to make one kilogram of silk.

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I5

BLK IS BACK SIR EDMUND’S GRANDSONS DIP INTO FASHION

George and Alexander Hillary, Sir Edmund Hillary’s grandsons, are the new faces of a socially responsible clothing label inspired by their grandfather’s achievements. The clothing label Edmund Hillary has a range of high-end outdoor menswear which benefits some of Sir Edmund Hillary’s favourite charities. Launching in August at New Zealand Fashion Week, the two grandsons are scheduled to walk the runway. Twenty-six-year-old George Hillary said it was an easy decision for him and his brother to become involved with the label. “We’ve been very involved behind the scenes with family charitable initiatives, something our grandfather was very passionate about. But we have only recently started getting into mountaineering more seriously, so linking in with the new label – and the history around Ed’s climbing successes – felt like a natural progression,” explained George. Twenty-two-year-old Alexander said Ed is an incredibly important family figure who achieved so much. “And this is a really good kind of pressure for us, encouraging us to strive harder and do more,” he added. The brothers are currently training in preparation for the next two mountains, Mont Blanc in France and Mt Elbrus in Russia, they will climb with their father Peter. The trio aims to climb seven peaks this year and have already summited Kilimanjaro and Carstensz Pyramid.

Edmund Hillary Brands’ CEO Mike Hall-Taylor founded the company with the Hillary family and said having Sir Edmund’s grandsons so closely involved is very exciting. “We’re delighted that George and Alexander are involved and they are very enthusiastic about the opportunity to keep the story of their grandfather and his amazing feats alive while supporting some of the causes and initiatives that he was so passionate about,” explained Hall-Taylor.

BLK International has announced that it will resume control of its licence operations in New Zealand following the termination of its agreement with Direct Sport. Any arrangements previously managed by Direct Sport on behalf of BLK will now fall under management directly by BLK. “This is an exciting time for BLK; we are continuing our expansion into overseas markets and broadening our team base,” said BLK Chief Operating Officer, Shannon Moore. “New Zealand has always been a core market and we look forward to continuing to support teams from the grassroots to elite level.”

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6 I June 2018

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Dwaynne Barrie has been appointed BLK International’s new Managing Director to lead the New Zealand operation.

“This is a great opportunity for BLK to continue the growth of the brand in New Zealand on back of the good work that has already been done here,” added Barrie. “We are now very excited and motivated to be taking the brand to the next level in New Zealand and we are very confident that a regional structure will provide added value to both the brand and our customers.”

BLK International added that they have enjoyed their relationship with Direct Sport over the years and wishes them well.

mins with

NOT FOR YOU’s SS18/19 ‘1 in 100’ unisex collection was is influenced by New Zealand’s homeless population which is 1 in 100. “My personal views and opinions were bound to be aligned with others; like ‘why are they not working’, ‘are they not able to get financial assistance’, ‘are they truly homeless’,” explained designer Jerome Taylor. “These thoughts crossed my mind every time I would walk past street beggars, and I wanted the answers, so I decided to begin my research.”

Taylor was overwhelmed with the amount of New Zealander’s who are homeless. Upon discovering the statistics, he became to realise that homelessness is so much more complicated than he once believed. “So many Kiwi families are living from pay check to pay check on minimum wage incomes. Some families are even working two jobs to keep the lights on and food in the fridge. It can be as easy as catching the flu and not being able to work for a few days just to get behind in bills which can then lead to families moving into garages or cars for weeks, months or even longer. Lastly, if they can’t get back on their feet, it can lead to them sleeping rough on the streets or in night shelters.”

NOT FOR YOU aims to bring attention to the growing problem we have in our community. “The more knowledge we have, the more power we have to change situations,” he added. This collection is filled with staple pieces for any wardrobe. The collection is divided into three sections; Pay Check To Pay Check, Sleeping In Cars, and Homeless. Taylor makes his collections about something with meaning, and that might not be something that is talked about openly. “I have been given this platform, and I want to use it to the best of my ability.” He added that he makes his garments not only to push boundaries but also to empower the wearer.

“I look forward to sharing my collection with you, and together I know we can make a change.”

Available now for August deliveries. For more information or to see the lookbook, email jerome@notforyouclothing.com.

Don’t be caught with another boring goodie bag, there’s no excuse anymore as the Apparel team has curated a list of goodie bag essentials. Whether its front row at New Zealand Fashion Week or at your own off-site show, here are some innovative products for your guests to enjoy. From natural scents, yummy handcrafted Italian gourmet foods, to recyclable bags – here is everything you need to make your goodie bag the musthave for the front row.

8 I June 2018

SHELF STAND-OUT

DIVINE NATURAL SCENTS

Circe (sir-see) natural perfume is a boutique perfume house, established in New Zealand in 2013. Their philosophy is that nature is the master perfumer. Circe fragrances are all 100 percent natural blends of essential oils, absolutes, botanicals and natural grain alcohol. They use luxurious ingredients sourced from around the world and mix them with native New Zealand essential oils to create unique, safe, natural fragrances. Their handmade, original, cruelty-free scents are crafted in small batches with love right here in Aotearoa.

For more information, visit www.circe.co.nz or email circeperfume@gmail.com.

THE BAG SPECIALISTS

Need a bag for your upcoming show? Look for Carried Away Bags!

They specialise in custom made and custom printed bags. Offering a wide range of printed and plain bags, Carried Away Bags can supply a variety of carry bags from biodegradable plastics, standard plastic, paper, and reusable ECO friendly fabrics like jute, non-woven or calico.

Carried Away Bags have been successfully serving clients nationwide since 1988. Customers appreciate their wealth of product knowledge and expertise over the last three decades.

If you need bags for trade shows, runway shows, promotions, retail, brochures – reach for Carried Away Bags. The team also work closely with advertising and marketing agencies in New Zealand.

“We combine quality and service with personal ongoing contact with all of ourcustomers.”

For more information, visit www.carriedaway.co.nz.

Macy and Tailor product is a stand out in that consumers love the premium quality and delicious taste. This is reflected through the clean, well-designed packaging, and the communications that engage consumers with the brand. Family owned and operated, Macy and Tailor products are free of preservatives and are non-GMO. Macy and Tailor is cute, quirky and humourous but takes quality seriously. The brand name is emotive, catering to a niche market of people who enjoy purchasing products that are tailored to their everyday needs and those who want healthy natural products. The Macy & Tailor customer base is made up of people who want the benefits of something natural and enjoy that the brand doesn’t take itself too seriously, it is approachable fun and friendly. With wildly delicious variants like Pressed Pretzels in Salt and Pizza flavours and Vege Crisps in Beetroot, Carrot & Parsnip, and Carrot Beetroot & Parsnip consumers will relish the taste of real, honest snacks. Products are available in 12 packets per carton. For more information contact, hello@maceyandtailor.com or on 0800 100 307 or visit www.macyandtailor.com.

FACE TO FACE

Face masks are quickly becoming the hottest trend in skincare, and Neutrogena’s latest range of intensive and indulgent facial treatments are paving the way. The latest shining star is Neutrogena’s new Hydro Boost Hydrating Overnight Mask. Available in convenient pod packaging, this small, easy to use beauty mask is the perfect addition to any fashionable gift bag.

The moisturising sleeping mask pod contains one dose of leaveon formula tailored to deliver an overnight facial, for a range of skin needs, which results in smooth, soft, supple skin. The hydrogel formula contains hyaluronic acid, a compound found naturally in skin, that provides skin with the moisture it needs. Neutrogena’s Hydro Boost Overnight mask is gentle and non-comedogenic, which means that it won’t clog pores.

These ground-breaking pods are just the latest example of how Neutrogena challenges the beauty industry to create innovations that redefine entire categories and inspire women around the globe.

BEAUTIFUL BEESWAX BALMS

Matakana Botanicals is one of New Zealand’s leading bath and body manufacturers. This quintessential New Zealand brand is available not only in New Zealand but internationally as well. Proudly NZ Made, their goal is to create unique products that not only smell delicious but that are good for consumers health and wellbeing.

Their lip balm range uses local ingredients, including their own bees, harnessing the power of Manuka Honey, Beeswax and Propolis to soothe and repair dry and damaged lips. Available in a convenient tin, their lip balms are perfect as an added extra gift for any gift bag.

MAPLE THE NEW COCONUT WATER

Maple water is the sap of the maple tree from which maple syrup is made.

Much like coconut water, maple water contains an array of nutrients (46 in total) and electrolytes. With a refreshingly clean taste and a hint of maple flavour, it’s the perfect way to cool down and rehydrate on a hot summer’s day.

Matakana Superfoods’ NECTA maple water is a sustainably harvested, lowcalorie beverage, making it ideal not only for health conscious individuals but the whole family.

Available in three flavours (pure maple, maple lemon tea and maple cranberry & blueberry).

For more information visit www.matakanasuperfoods.com or phone 0800 422 968.

STYLE & TASTE

If you’ve ever eaten a beautiful antipasti platter in a restaurant, piled high with juicy green Sicilian olives and delicately shaved prosciutto, chances are you’ve tried Ghiotti without even realising it.

In the five years that they have shared their beautiful food with New Zealand Ghiotti is now a very familiar and trusted brand.

European Foods remain as passionate as ever about delivering indulgence, authenticity and good taste to their customers and Ghiotti delivers Italian style and taste.

"We welcome the opportunity to work with designers to sample our range to your front row customers."

For more information call +64 9 551 7410 or visit www.ghiotti.com.

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I9

trade talks

With over 500 delegates, the 2018 UITIC Congress was sold out in Portugal. The nonprofit event asks the footwear industry what they want to hear in a call for papers every year.

UITIC was established in 1972 in France to promote innovation within the industry. Every two years, the industry-only event is hosted in a new country with a strong footwear industry.

Networking is a key part of the event as industry leaders from all corners of the globe come together to share information. Portugal’s main focus is footwear innovation and is a leader in the global footwear market, so it was appropriate for UITIC’s A New Technological Age to be held in Porto, the heart of Portugal’s footwear industry. Porto’s prestigious history in footwear has led to over 95 percent of their products being exported. Last year, Porto alone exported 80 million pairs of shoes. The industry has increased 25 percent and is the driving force behind their economy.

This year, UITIC set out to discover and share new technology that is needed to develop a more flexible and sustainable future for footwear manufacturers.

New technology is transforming consumer trends, and manufacturing is becoming a social phenomenon.

MEET THE MAKER:

LUIS ONOFRE

Luis Onofre specialises in limited edition beautifully made shoes. With a huge range of custom lasts that range from flat, low and high heels. The thirdgeneration family business was founded by Luis Onofre’s grandmother in 1939.

The company isn’t limited to shoes either, they have a large collection of stunning hand-made jewellery and accessories. Each product, no matter what it is, is designed, cut and made all under one roof. The factory that Apparel had the pleasure of visiting produced 300 limitededition shoes a day, and had over 300 different styles in their showroom.

The facility itself has over 3,000 styles. The factory

10 I June 2018

is divided into groups where each section works together to ensure top quality in every piece made.

Once the shoes are finished, they are placed inside an extravagant handmade box with a small pillow with fragrance inside the box. This luxury is only for the limited-edition offerings.

Inspired by family tradition, each piece is unique and exclusive. Onofre himself resonates his ideas and concepts and is proud to be internationally recognised for the services his company provides. Once upon a time, the brand was responsible for making stilettos heels for men in an effort towards equality.

Open to partnering with other eclectic brands, there are two physical Luis Onofre stores as well as an e-store on their website. Luis Onofre is available in over 60 countries, has hundreds of suppliers, and is one of the oldest shoe manufacturers in Portugal.

3D & 4D PRINTED SAMPLES While 3D printing is nothing new to the world, it is finally time to adopt in the footwear industry on a global scale. Now it is more accessible than ever to introduce this into manufacturing and in some cases – retail. Maarten Oonk explained at UITIC that adding 3D and 4D printers to the mix won’t take jobs away. He used Uber in New York City as an example; explaining that ‘the pie’ consisted only of taxi drivers, and when Uber was introduced (with 40,000 drivers) it didn’t split the pie, it made it bigger by a whopping $7 billion USD. It’s the same with footwear manufacturers which are growing, not declining. A lot of footwear brands across the globe now use 3D or 4D printers in their offices to quickly produce samples. This is an easy way to cut down on time for sampling, before you are even thinking about the production cycle. Traditionally, it would take 1224 weeks and around $2,000 to develop and complete a sample. Compare this to 2-4 days and $300 to develop a 3D sample on site.

Don’t have a 3D or 4D printer? No problem!

Designers can send their designs (using 3D software or traditional drafts) to a variety of companies in China that can quickly render a virtual 3D sample of your product within 24 hours.

MEET THE MAKER:

PROCALÇAGO Procalçago was established 45 years ago and remains a family owned and operated business.

Procalçago is mainly known for its sole making production, but also has three core brands as well; Lemon Jelly, Fe Forever and WOCK. With two factories, over 400 employees, more than 2,000 clients, and a 25 million euro per annum turnover – Procalçago’s mission is to provide innovative technology and products.

Producing five million shoes annually, 60 percent of their products are exported.

Beginning in the early 1970’s, they were worried about footwear manufacturers moving to Asia, but fortunately it never happened, and Procalçago became the first company in Europe to export soles.

WOCK focuses on providing professional footwear for the medical industry as they boast superior comfort, sterility and their signature lemon scent. The eclectic WOCK products are also targeted at fashion, outdoor, eco, classic, safety, and military demographics. WOCK can be found

in 63 countries Lemon Jelly shoes are also lemon scented and focus on quality and design. Although they aren’t a big competitor in the market, as it is only five years old, the footwear industry looks to Lemon Jelly for innovative technology and design. Found in 23 countries worldwide, Lemon Jelly recycles all sole trimmings to be repurposed. Twenty percent of the soles are made of recycled materials. This is a reasonably new innovation and will be soon implemented across all brands on a larger scale.

The company only outsource a small amount of jobs that they cannot provide in Portugal. There are just 20 employees on the floor making 1000 pairs of Lemon Jelly shoes a day.

Fe Forever uses 100 percent recycled materials, are they are biodegradable. This is an important innovation that they are excited to use across all of their brands, as nothing is wasted.

Procalçago offer concept, design, prototypes, and testing services. They currently work with clients such as Balmain and Armani. Their core country markets are Germany, France and Portugal.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 11

retail eye

SPACEWORKS

Lizzi Whaley is the CEO and owner of Spaceworks Design Group. A qualified commercial interior designer she took over the business in 2006 and has grown it into a $15 million business. Spaceworks specializes in commercial office, retail, hotel and hospitality fit-outs for projects ranging from 50m² to 10,000m² and has completed projects nationwide.

The projects range from simple design services through to full turnkey of nationwide rollouts.

Even though Spaceworks covers the full plethora of interiors, Whaley’s passion is retail. Spend 5 mins with Lizzi and she will talk about experiential retail and the importance of engagement. No longer is it retail but its ‘Me-tail’, where the focus from the customer perspective is all about me, ‘what can you offer me?’, ‘how can you serve me?’, ‘how am I going to come out talking and sharing my experience in this space?’. Retail is all about understanding the shopper and the psyche of the shopping journey – talk to Whaley and the facts and research they have undertaken will come in abundance.

As the owner of Spaceworks Design Group, an award-winning agency, Whaley and her team are serious about design and just as serious about business – creating great design solutions for other business owners to grow their retail presence, customers and ultimately their bottom line. After all retail and design are all about getting a great return on your investment. They believe that good design shouldn’t cost a fortune and commit to working with your budget, throughout the entire process.

Young at heart with plenty of energy, coupled with being wise in experience and thought-leadership

makes for a formidable team. Whaley’s passion is obvious along with serious commitment to creating spaces which are functional, strategic in design and will set your business apart from the rest – no matter the budget.

Each and every client is unique and have vastly different requirements. “There is nothing cookie cutter about us, we provide creative and bespoke solutions to our clients every time,” affirmed Whaley.

Spaceworks is renowned for thinking outside of the square and well versed at creating solutions for each and every customer that engages them and makes them want to come back again and again.

RD RD has been entrusted with the care of their clients’ brands and retail spaces for over 20 years, and they thrive on creating custom retail solutions that resolve challenges and execute visions. Whether standalone joinery, innovative solutions, or full fit-out, their approach is fresh, fast and universally informed. As the retail landscape and digital inclusion continually evolve to meet the demands of the consumer, so too does their integrated retail offer.

Guy Richards is the Creative Director in their team of talented designers, he specialises in spatial design; exploring and challenging current retail environments to achieve more desirable outcomes for their clients’ point of presence in the market. The customers’ journey through a tactile environment from arrival, through the selection process, and leading to purchase, need to be a remarkable experience.

Based in RD’s Auckland office, Richards’ portfolio of work includes spatial design for food and beverage, fashion retail, fuel, hospitality, telco, and offices. With the accreditation of both gold and silver at the Best Design Awards, his work is internationally recognised for its immersive design calibre. His 30 years of experience adds to the knowledge and trust that clients have come to expect from RD and the powerful retail environments that we create.

For more information visit www.retaildimension. co.nz or email contact@retaildimension.co.nz.

12 I June 2018

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I 13

THE MONEY FACTOR

One of the biggest challenges facing businesses in the fashion industry today is the delay in getting paid for work that’s been completed.

Quick and ready cash flow is essential, and if a client hasn’t paid an invoice in time it can put large pressure on a small business that doesn’t yet have a lot of immediate capital to draw from.

Without a business finance arrangement, manufacturers must wait for debtors to pay off the invoices to have cash flow rolling in which can halt production and expansion.

Banks are often reluctant to loan money to newly established fashion labels due to uncertain nature of the industry. Banks are also less flexible with their lending arrangements than other finance companies. Banks rely on collateral and safetysomething to fall back on which will provide security to the loan. Unfortunately, small businesses often cannot offer something of this value, unless they have a home to add security to the loan. Even getting an overdraft can be an ordeal for a small business, particularly when capital is low and using a house as collateral is not an option.

As traditional forms of finance can be difficult to come by in the industry, small to medium labels must turn to different methods. Finance companies offer a range of options to get revenue into the hands of businesses.

Finance factoring is a method that secures immediate cash flow. Services like EC Credit Control offer business the ability to convert unpaid invoices, debtors ledger, into cash immediately.

With a business finance arrangement, manufacturers can produce garments, sell into retail, and immediately get around 80 percent of the face value of the invoices back. This way manufacturers can afford to continue production

14 I June 2018

and see profits come back into their hands.

The finance provider is handed the responsibility for collecting the debts and pays the designer upon receiving the receipts, minus a fee for their services.

Here, the business works alongside their clients, giving the client a dedicated credit controller who becomes an extension of the client’s team in collecting and managing debt.

Medium size businesses often struggle to chase up slow payers as the job often falls on the office administrator who can lack the time or skills necessary to get the payments. This results in debt collection going to the bottom of the list of things to complete. However, the money needs to come in. If you don’t have the resources to handle debt collection duties internally then do not hesitate to outsource help to a collection agency.

There are many advantages to business factoring, especially the lack of need for real estate security.

Factoring is a flexible option that provides your business with funding that is equivalent to the number of sales you are making. This way, you are able to grow revenue at the same rate your business is growing, rather than waiting for cash flow much further down the pipeline or turning to a bank to desperately for an even bigger loan.

Business factoring is versatile and allows financiers to support the client through a wide range of situations and the various stages of the business lifecycle. Rapid growth, mergers and acquisitions, staff turnaround all happen in the ever-changing and fast-moving business world and business financiers will be there to help and provide support when that happens.

In the past, there was a stigma attached to business financing, with a perception that only a failing business would rely upon it. Small business owners were previously reluctant to hand over their debt collecting to a third party as it would reveal to their clients they are using a factoring service. However, times have changed, and business factoring is now a $3 trillion business worldwide.

In Australian alone, it is a $60 billion industry and in the United Kingdom it makes up for 15 percent of the GDP. It is difficult to chase up clients who are slow to pay their debts, and in small to medium businesses, the job often falls on an office administrator who may either lack the time or skills necessary to get the payments. This can result in debt collection going to the bottom of the list of things to complete. As new a business, the money still needs to be coming in.

Managing debtors is time-consuming and costly and an unavoidable necessity for emerging businesses. When debtors are exceptionally late the issue can spiral out of hand, and the cash flow that your business is reliant upon bottlenecks leaving you out in the cold. When growth outweighs cashflow, business factoring becomes a necessity.

The perception of business factoring has shifted from a sign of financial insecurity to an indicator of economic sensibilities. The alternative to factoring is to restrict orders. For newcomers in the competitive fashion industry where demand must be met, putting a halt on orders is a recipe for disaster.

Factoring does provide a quick source of income,

but it also has some risks.

It comes with associated fees that must be built-in to the already existing cost of running the business.

Despite this, there is greater risk in finance providers misleading small businesses and signing them up to finance plans with hidden fees and interest. This makes factoring the safer, smarter, easier and more affordable option for most small businesses.

Another one of the most important, but not often mentioned, aspects of trading as a business is having an up-to-date Terms of Trade. Keeping this

ensures you are protected when doing business with customers or clients, with these terms to lean back on should issues arise.

EC Credit Control understands the importance of having a robust credit management process as an underlying foundation of your business. They believe that more than 60 percent of companies in New Zealand operate with little or no Terms of Trade documentation, leaving them at risk and exposed to all kinds of liabilities.

Worded correctly, a Terms of Trade document will establish a clear legal relationship your customers from the get-go.

“They are the foundation on which your business trades - the rules of your business game. They refer

to New Zealand legislation and outline practical, every day clauses, around how you operate your business,” EC Credit Control said.

“Our experience working with thousands of other small businesses has shown this will improve your cash flow, greatly reduce disputes resulting in unpaid accounts, minimise your liabilities and empower you to take action in the event of nonpayment.”

If your business is awaiting cash flow and doesn’t have the resources to handle debt collection duties internally, then do not hesitate to outsource help to a collection agency. Take action so you can continue what you are best at and let the experts handle the unpleasant bill collection duties.

Need staff?

Full time, part time or short term...

We have graduates available

www.sewtec.ac.nz (09) 250-1515 apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 15

colour trending

Antique and vintage clothes are making a prominent comeback this year. Florals, sequins and renaissance prints were all spotted walking the runways. A staple for every fashionista, you would be hard-pressed to find a wardrobe that doesn’t have a vintage floral skirt, shirt or dress hanging in it. Originating from Asia, floral patterns have long reigned supreme in the fashion world.

Formerly a symbol of the royal families of Japan and China, ornate floral embroidery was once seen as promoting wealth and honour. European traders eventually caught wind of these mesmerising materials, and it wasn’t long before the West started adopting the patterns as their own.

Heaven Tanudiredja Resene Salsa

Colours available from

Marques Almeida Resene Space Station

Resene ColorShops

Michael Kors Resene Turbo

www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363

Liroto Resene Sazerac

mid-seventeenth century ruff, (once worn by kings, queens and aristocrats) pairing the historical clothing item with modern silhouettes and bold block colours. These antique offerings were juxtaposed with uber stylish gowns made from plastic lattice type materials.

Mid-century goth collided with athleisure wear in the Liroto 2018 runway show. A dark palette of black and dim lighting created an Adams Family-esque runway show. Small pockets of light were seen in a few ensemble pieces. A plastic-wrapped dress in a shade similar to Resene Sazerac had strong ties to Little Bo-Peep. The fairytale look came complete with bonnet, book and patch embroidery. Moments of colour were few and far between with mere hints of cream and floral fabrics being spotted. Dolllike models only added to the overall bizarre runway experience as designer Naoki Tomizuka revealed the brand’s first ever collection.

Queen Elizabeth was in attendance at designer Richard Quinn’s autumn 2018 catwalk presentation. Dramatic floral print work took centre stage as models stomped the runway covered with gold painted faces, motorbike helmets and scarves. This edgy fashion extravaganza had bold floral prints mixed together with polka dot materials and pleated high neck dresses. A contrast to the Liroto show, Quinn’s collection was oozing with colour.

Pastels, metallic and neon colours were all spotted on the runway. An extravagant cape style coat in a colour resembling Resene Good Morning stole the show. The model was completely covered from Richard Quinn head to toe in a bold floral print with large pink flowers.

Resene The show was fitting for someone who had just been Good awarded for their contribution to the fashion Morning community and for their creative talent.

Inspired by the Flea markets of the 70’s, the Isa Arfen collection was a thoughtful mish-mash of tartan, floral, bows and satin. Tartan knee patches covered vintage style blue wash jeans that were paired with large bow satin crop tops. Velvet also made an appearance as did old mayoral chains.

With the rise of the Industrial Revolution, textiles that once had to be created by master craftsmen could now be imitated cheaply and quickly by machines. This saw a boom in floral patterns as they became accessible to the average Joe. The 1920’s gave way to small-scale floral designs which continued through the decades until the 60’s and 70’s when flower power once again saw larger flower designs taking prominence.

Indonesian designer Heaven Tanudiredja held his first-ever runway show in Tokyo. The Fall Ready-to-Wear collection showcased an array of lavish coats, skirts and dresses. Intricate embroidery was paired with sequins on garments to give the illusion of regal style clothing. An old-timey coat in a shade like Resene Salsa was seen adorned on a model. Intricate floral embroidery covered the coat as did gold sequined roses that sparkled in the lights. In true regal style, designer Tanudiredja put his twist on the

Isa Arfen Resene Wild Thing

Jose Natori Resene Grass Hopper

Vintage floral fabrics in a colour like Resene Wild Thing donned dresses and coats adding to the already lively mix of materials. Corsets made from velvet were paired with the top of puffy sleeved low-cut blouses, and ruffled sweaters were incrusted with large gems.

Vintage Victorian style garments shone at creative director Amy Powney’s Mother of Pearl Spring Runway show. Pieces resembling Victorian nightgowns and vintage deck chair striped trousers were among those featured in the oldfashioned yet modern show. A dress in a material reminiscent of Grandma’s curtains was spotted walking down the runway in a colour similar to Resene Ruby Tuesday. The understated colour palette also reflected gold, white, orange and blue shades. Floral wasn’t the only pattern as subtle tartan and oversized polka dots once again made an appearance in the Spring runway show.

Marques Almeida’s fall runway show was a mix of renaissance flare and 90’s pop culture. Super low-cut jeans were paired with bomber jackets in metallic shades and platform sneakers. Elizabethan clothing made a long overdue comeback with the collection showcasing early 16th century doublets and traditional Tudor undershirts. In contrast to the Shakespearean theme floral prints were once again prominent throughout the collection, this time mixed with tie-dye and plaid fabrics. A metallic dress in a colour close to Resene Space Station harmonised with red Gerbera Daisy prints and a matching pair of silver boots. The 90’s came back in force with motorcycle jackets and large slogan feminist sweatshirts. The show, a joyous collaboration of the designer’s favourites influences.

Feathers and traditional embroidery were the standout themes in the Josie Natori fall 2018 show. A nod to traditional Asian design, Natori featured kimonos and bomber jackets with peacocks and lotus flowers beautifully embroidered onto them. Hoping to create a collection that adapted with the modern woman Natori went with a more casual aesthetic than her previous collections. A knee length chiffon dress in a colour similar to Resene Grass Hopper was enhanced with the use of pastel pink feathers and floral designs.

The fall 2018 Michael Kors collection was a medley of prominent prints. Camo jackets, plaid coats, small-scale florals, embroidered sequins,

Mother Pearl Resene Ruby Tuesday

leopard scarves and tartan trousers were all championed throughout the show. A joyous occasion, Kors wanted to design a collection that made women feel good. A skirt and wrap coat combination in a colour resembling Resene Turbo was paired with matching heels and a Cynthia Rowley mid-waist belt to create an elegant outfit. Reds Resene corresponded with shades of yellow and beige was Limerick matched with more beige. Colour was the ultimate standout of Kors’ sophisticated show.

The models from Cynthia Rowley’s fall runway show looked like they had just stepped out of an Austin Powers spy remake. The retro 60’s vibe was strong with sequinned pants, psychedelic socks, and knee-high boots. Hints of Antiques Road Show were also present with ruffled sleeves and more renaissance prints making an appearance, this time in the form of the famous ‘Birth of Venus’ painting. A shapeless chiffon dress in a colour like Resene Limerick flowed down the runway complete with knee-high boots, a satin headband and duffle bag. Man’s best friend stole the show, however with dogs of all shapes and sizes accompanying the models.

accessory alert

SMALL TOWN SUCCESS Columbine is a New Zealand small-town success story that spans multiple generations. The iconic brand is known for its fashionforward pantyhose, eye-catching socks and trendy tights, that have provided style and comfort for New Zealand legs over the past 65 years and counting.

The company’s origins trace back to 1951 when three brothers – Alan, George and Jack Thorpe – opened a factory in Gisborne. After celebrating their 65th birthday in business earlier this year, the team has no intention of slowing down.

Columbine manufacture and distribute hosiery and socks for men, women and children. It is the only New Zealand based hosiery manufacturer that produces a full hosiery range of socks, pantyhose, knee highs, stockings and tights. They produce it all - everything from ten denier hosiery to merino tights and thick workwear socks.

The brand’s name Columbine, and its men’s brand Harlequin, are inspired by the classic pantomime ballet characters who reflect the beauty and strength of the dance form.

The key to the small-town business’s success comes down to two factors: quality and comfort. Columbine doesn’t just make sure its products look good, it also wants them to feel good as well. They know how much New Zealanders value

WALK LIKE AN EGYPTIAN Made in Italy using Filoscozia, a super-fine yarn guaranteed to be 100 percent Egyptian cotton, and double mercerised, Visconti’s stock service collection are some of the finest socks available. With its long staples and being the most sheer, Egyptian cotton is the best in the world, and with both double mercerisation (the process of burning off any fluff from the yarn) the yarn is even smoother. The result - a superfine gentleman’s sock that doesn’t pill and fluff after a couple of wears and washes. Each Visconti sock has a hand-linked toe, reducing any bulk in the seam, making them comfortable to wear all day. Visconti’s stock service collection includes plains and jacquards with subtle textures. The collection is exclusive to independent retailers and available from Parisian.

Call 09 303 4129.

comfort, and ensure their products are easy to wear, stylish and long lasting.

In a market dominated by low-cost mass production, Columbine continues to focus on sustainability and ethical manufacturing.

It hires top-quality staff, invests in the latest high-tech equipment and sources the very best materials from the world’s leading suppliers.

Columbine does all its manufacturing from its one Gisborne factory. It employs 75 staff members to create quality products for customers throughout New Zealand and Australia.

Columbine’s retail customers include some of the biggest names in New Zealand and Australia such as Farmers, David Jones, Myer, Smith & Caughey’s, Ballantyne’s and H&J Smith, as well as numerous independent retailers and private labellers across both countries.

Anybody looking for something unique

for a school or business should get in touch with Columbine. They can produce individual designs to cater to anyone’s needs, be it a logo or a school stripe – you name it, they can do it.

Its minimum order quantity is very low – customers can order as little as 300 pairs per order.

A family favourite for the last six decades, Columbine plans on dressing future generations in its socks, hosiery and tights for decades to come.

To view their full range visit www.columbine.co.nz or contact them at info@columbine.co.nz.

MADE WITH LOVE IN NEW ZEALAND

At Adage Socks, knitwear and accessories are their passion.

The philosophy behind Adage Socks is simple. Their socks are conceived, designed, loved, tested,and manufactured in New Zealand.

“We are a family owned and operated knitwear manufacturing plant in Auckland, New Zealand,” explained Danielle Archibald. Three generations of the Archibald family have worked with knitwear. “Experience defines our manufacturing process, ensuring capability and quality. We love making socks.”

Adage Socks provides both a custom manufacturing service as well as having their own range. The Adage Sock range is available for wholesale orders as well as being sold on their website. Every season, they make several styles which are exclusively wholesale-only. “We seek to include colour, patterns and textures into our sock styles, from our thick work socks to babywear, through to our soft merino dress socks.”

“Our range and capabilities are extensive.”

Email enquiries@remar.co.nz or visit www.adagesocks.co.nz today.

say it with socks Move over sunglasses, ankles are having a moment.

Gucci, Vetements, Off-White, Fendi, and more luxury brands are dipping into socks and hosiery as it becomes an increasingly crucial element of one’s #OOTD. For men, socks have long been a pathway to self expression. Bright, bold socks peeking beneath the hem of a suit. Remember back when there was a frenzy over Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau wearing Star Wars socks with his suit in a meeting with former Irish Prime Minister Edna Kenny? His ankles allowed you to see a lot about his personality instantly. But socks aren’t just for the traditionally

18 I June 2018

suited male, the trend has also resonated with the casually-dressed male as well. Due to the rise in sneaker fashion and cult-followed sneakerheads, athletic socks have partnered up with novelty to say a little something more than comfort. Take Stance and their NBA socks, or any of their collaborations with celebrities such as Willow Smith or Rihanna. Whether its trousers, jeans or shorts; consumers are saying it with socks.

The current fashion sneaker look means consumers are wearing the same shoes (Stan Smiths, Converse, Nike, Adidas) and are customising their outfit with

socks to stand out from the crowd. Even slides and socks are having a resurgence after spending a long time in the wilderness and included as one of fashions Seven Deadly Sins.

Consumers have​ jumped from paying $6 for a pair to $600. Socks can be a luxury item now because of what they say and how they make you feel. From disco to sport to novelty, Socks are an important staple in every wardrobe and it’s time to express yourself through socks.

Apparel has curated a range of sock styles and brands that are available locally.

PROUDLY AUSTRALIAN MADE

Compuknit Hosiery Australia is a third-generation family owned company founded by the late Mr Antonio Pietrolungo. Compuknit has been a leader in Australian sock manufacturing since its inception in 1994.

“At Compuknit Hosiery, we pride ourselves on providing our customers with a complete and transparent experience from the early stages of sampling through to the moment your order arrives at your door,” said Raffaele Pietrolungo. “Every process is conducted on-site at our factory located in Thomastown, Victoria, Australia.”

With a combined industry experience of 50 years, the use of state of the art Lonati circular knitting machines, carefully selected yarn suppliers and the trusted reputation amongst their existing client base, Compuknit can assure you that they will provide a product that you will be proud to offer your customers.

For more information visit www.compuknit.com.au or email info@compuknit.com.au.

COLOURFUL ELEGANCE There’s nothing like a good pair of socks, and with Visconti, consumers know they are getting nothing but quality, comfort and durability. Being the first brand of colourful socks on the market, Visconti still holds the prime position in the independent sector for the best quality patterned sock in the country made using the finest yarns available. Collections are released twice a year with the summer indent made exclusively with filoscozia cotton and in the winter, with fine merino. The upcoming Summer 18/19 collection includes the illustrious Visconti multi-stripes alongside offbeat designs that feature quirky spectacles and bow ties. And who said the left foot needs to know what the right foot is doing? This season, Visconti has given the classically striped sock an upgrade with the right foot design a reverse of the left. Your customers will be putting their best foot forward this season. Contact Parisian on 09 303 4129.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 19

trade talks

GST AT THE BORDER The Government has proposed that foreign companies should pay GST on goods sold online to New Zealanders, with submissions on the proposal due by the end of this month.

Enforcing GST on foreign companies would level the playing field for small businesses and manufacturers.

If the price of foreign goods is to rise, customers would no longer have financial incentive to buy from overseas websites. For the apparel industry, this would give local operations a little bit of breathing space and resistance against major overseas digital platforms.

Business-to-business transactions would be exempt from the tax. The current GST rate in New Zealand is

TAX TIP ALERT The Government has released a discussion document on GST and low-value imported goods. The discussion document, GST on low-value imported goods.

An offshore supplier registration system, outlines the details of the Government’s proposed offshore supplier registration (OSR) system. The Government is seeking submissions on the design aspects of this proposal with submissions closing on 29 June 2018.

Following consultation, the draft law is expected to be tabled in Parliament by November 2018. If enacted, the new rules for offshore sellers of low value goods (LVG) – below the $400 threshold – will apply from 1 October 2019.

The Tax Working Group (TWG) also called for submissions on the same issue and those submissions will be redirected to Inland Revenue, given that the TWG has now reported back to the Government and recommended it to consult on the design of an OSR system, while also acknowledging the need to review other options to collect GST between the point of sale and delivery.

This is an issue which has been discussed by the OECD, governments and regulators around the

world. If enacted as currently proposed, the new LVG rules will be consistent with the introduction of the remote services rules (implemented in October 2016).

We support the policy behind extending GST to the consumption of all goods in New Zealand.

However, careful thought needs to be given to whether the OSR system is the best approach.

Importantly, the Government has welcomed consultation on this and this consultation will be vital to ensure the most appropriate model is implemented.

While the aim of taxing both goods and services is important there will be more complexity with cross border flows of goods. The design features will need to be carefully considered. Other potential models that could work independently or in tandem with the OSR model must be considered. The final model must be easy to comply with. New Zealand’s GST is widely regarded as the simplest and most pure goods and services (or value added) tax on the planet and it’s important that the design and implementation of these new rules maintain that.

(As originally published in - PwC Tax Tip Alert May 2018: New Zealand)

20 I June 2018

15 percent, so the price of any goods purchased online under $400 would increase by 15 percent. Australia is slightly ahead of New Zealand at taxing online purchases, as the Australian Government originally planned to implement a tax on online goods starting July 2017, however, this was postponed to July 1 this year, due to issues working out the best way to implement and enforce the tax.

THE NEW RULES FOR IMPORTED GOODS: 1.

2.

3.

4.

Will ensure that consumption of goods in New Zealand by private consumers is subject to GST (offshore sellers will be liable to pay the GST, if the current model is implemented) Address matters of fairness and equity raised by New Zealand retailers Are conservatively estimated to add at least NZ$80 million per annum to the Government’s GST take (this is a very conservative figure and the actual numbers could be at least double that amount and will continue to grow) The policy behind the need to apply GST to consumption in New Zealand is appropriate and will also bring New Zealand in line with emerging international trends – Australia is introducing similar rules from 1 July 2018 and the EU is moving towards a comprehensive OSR model for goods by 2021. However, in order to be effective, the precise implementation model will need to be carefully considered and issues such as complexity and the cost of compliance are critical part of the measure’s success (as has been part of the debate in Australia).

Freephone: 0508 243 629 www.propress.co.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 21

model talks

Alice Zhou BINTANG MODELS

Alice Zhou started modelling at age 18 – little over a year ago. “A lot of people were saying that I should try to be a model,” Zhou explained. “I thought it was a great idea. By that time I had been offered an opportunity

by Bintang Models, so boom, I became a model!”

beauty spot

Apparel Magazine spoke to Coty Professional Beauty ANZ’s Education Director, Gina Thomas, about NIOXIN OPTIMO and different causes and types of hair loss.

Confidence can be easily lost if your hair is noticeably thinning, and this can create insecurities around physical appearance. According to the reseach by NIOXIN, over 60 percent of the study respondents agreed to feeling concerned about hair thinning.

What’s interesting amongst this, is that millennials (ages 25-34) were most concerned about the topic with social media magnifying concerns around how we look. “Over 50 percent of these being women,” said Thomas. “We call Diaboost one of our instant heroes as it increases the thickness of each exisiting

22 I June 2018

While there is no history of fashion in her family (her mother is a university professor and her fatherworks in IT), her family is right behind her modelling career. Zhou is currently with Bintang Models, but has trained with the New Silk Road modelling agency in China. “During this time, I had opportunities to work with Chinese photographers and designers. It was an interesting experience.”

Zhou has met some success in China – she is a popular fashion blogger on video sharing site bilibili and has been on Chinese television to share her thoughts.

“I haven’t been modelling in too many places but I definitely like the fashion industry in New Zealand,” she said. “I’m always feeling respected in New Zealand industry, all the designers, makeup artists and photographers are always polite and I feel respected.”

In the future, Zhou hopes to model in New York and China. “I would like to try to get on all those cool fashion weeks and my goal for recently is New Zealand Fashion Week.”

Zhou is currently working towards a Commerce degree at the University of Auckland and is aiming to one day get her Masters. While it is a challenge balancing study, modelling and her passion for art and design, she is taking it in her stride.

“I love fashion,” she said. “I love basically everything about fashion and art and I’m also working hard on art myself. Modelling inspires me as an artist and it also makes me more confident. I love modelling, not only because modelling itself is awesome but also it improves me in many different ways.”

strand, making it appear like you have up to 11,000 more hair strands.” There are several hair styles and cuts that can be created to mask the effects of thinning hair, something that Thomas’ salons specialise in.

Partnering with Yale Univiserity’s Dr Marianne LaFrance, NIOXIN commissioned a one-of-a-kind global research into the psychological impact of hair thinning. This research of 4,000 adults across six markets confirmed that people with thinning hair ‘hold back’ from living a fuller life with a quarter of respondents (27 percent) claiming that they would avoid social interactions if they experienced hair thinning.

Genetics, stress, diet, medication, environmental factors, general health, and even pregnancy can impact the density and diameter of hair stands for both men and women. Hair loss can occur dramatically or slowly over time. In most cases, hair loss and thinning is hormone related. “For example, where stress and trauma is concerned, stress produces an increased level of testosterone, which converts to DHT and interrupts the hair’s growth cycle. Stress also constricts blood supply through the capillaries, restricting oxygen and nutriend uptake and vitamins to the hair follicle,” she explained.

Stress is a common factor of hair loss and thining, with almost two thirds of people citing stress as the number one reason for their hair’s lack of volume and thickness.

The NIOXIN online consultation tool can help consumers diagnose the right treatment regime depending on the level of thinning. This tool combines exisiting state of hair (coloured, dry or brittle) with an individual’s hair priorities (thickness, colour, and so on) to determine a personalised prescription. Of which will arrive in the form of a NIOXIN System Kit which ranges from level one to six, paired with additional treatment products for support.

When asked if hair loss differed for men and women, Thomas said yes and no. “As hair loss and thinning happen as a result of internal and external factors, there

are only a few causes that identify with one gender. The most common form of dramatic hair loss for example, alopecia, is prevalent in both men and women equally.”

Stress, trauma, and diet affect both sexes whereas genetic hair thinning and balding is more common in men. As a broader issue, 50 percent of all men and women are affected by hair thinning and/or loss at some point in their lives. “Our Hair Booster with HBT Technology is a targeted treatment for improving specific areas of concern such as a receding hairline or low-density crown and part.”

Vist www.nioxin.com/en-US/consultation-tool

NIOXIN’S TOP TEN TIPS TO COMBAT HAIR LOSS AND THINNING: 1.

Washing the hair frequently: Clean hair has more body with minimal oil weighing it down.

2. Towel dry the hair gently.

3. Dry on a medium heat.

4. Scrunch and bounce the hair when blow-drying: This will add extra lift and volume for visible improvements.

5. Brush the ends first: too much force can cause unneeded tangles and breakage.

6. Wear your ponytail loose: this minimises stress along the hairline, which subsequently contributes to breakage.

7. Massage your scalp: a 3-minute head massage will help increase blood circulation to the scalp, and oxidise the hair follicle.

8. Lifting the hair during blow drying.

9. Braiding your hair: keeping the hair in a plait or braid whilst sleeping will reduce breakage, as will switching to a silk pillowcase.

10. Condition your hair regularly.

edited

Saturation point: Fashion’s latest colour obsession Since the earliest toga, colours have always come in and out of fashion, but never more noticeably than in the sweeping design trends over the last two years.

First there was millennial pink. Then came Gen Z yellow. Why are demographics laying claim to palettes and what’s going on with colour in apparel? Do not adjust your screens – things are about to get superbright.

Saturated shades are suddenly everywhere. When did the world get so very technicolour? We’ve taken a look at retail data, color analysis software, retailer communications and runway trends to understand exactly where Joseph’s coat is headed.

DEATH OF THE KINFOLK AESTHETIC When Kinfolk, the Portland-founded quarterly responsible for 7 million flat whites photographed atop marble counters, launched back in 2011 few could have estimated the enormous cultural impact the tastemakers would have.

Its sleek layouts and still life imagery featuring a very Scandi brand of freelance life were soon being mimicked across the blogosphere (as it was called back then). It was these content creators, slightly ahead of the curve on platforms like Tumblr and later, Instagram, who defined the hip “slow lifestyle” aesthetic of 2012-2016 and propelled that other Scandinavian design influence, hygge.

Cited as one of “20 Independent Magazines that Every Creative Should Have on Their Coffee Table” the co-founder told The New York Times back in 2014 they were “about living with intention, thinking about what you’re doing and trying to enjoy the smaller things, like a meal, a conversation, time out with friends”. Yikes, how we’ve moved on from that (I type while scrolling Instagram with my foot).

Not only have we mostly forgotten about slow living, but Kinfolk’s understated, quiet visuals weren’t diverse or inclusive. They appealed to one, mainly white, consumer set.

Fast forward eight years and right now consumers are more about big, bold beliefs and changing longheld values. Those greyscale flat lays have fallen by the wayside, the marble has been replaced by Memphis design and bespoke terrazzo.

NEW WAVE OF MAXIMALIST DESIGN Post-hipster design has got a whole lot busier. Look to interiors, where eclectic rocks and minerals like malachite, amethyst and lapis lazuli are influencing homewares. (Kinfolk look away! They collect dust like nobody’s business.)

Unusual combinations of metal and wood, smoked glass and colour-

drenched ceramics have all but buried the Nordic simplicity in fashionable homes. And on the food scene, menus have become frame-worthy and the design of restaurant bathrooms can be the main event.

It’s all for the Insta, baby.

Maximalism has crossed into apparel too. Gucci’s more-is-more aesthetic is having a global influence on luxury and mass tastes. And head-to-toe colorblocking is no longer just for the kooky woman on your bus.

THE MILLENNIAL IMPACT Colour connects so well with the millennial consumer. We don’t need to remind you that there’s some shady stuff going on in politics globally right now – stuff which has ramped up social anxiety.

Colour is a very millennial form of escapism – it signifies defiance in the face of an all too ungraspable world. Colour has become a leitmotif for current social reform. The Women’s March own pink. Pride is rainbow-striped. Gun control got orange. Being relevant got matcha-green.

DESIGNING FOR

GROWTH OF COLOUR IN RETAIL Pantone really wanted lilac to be a huge trend – and it does feel like it’s everywhere – but this is where data comes in real handy: Lilac has barely altered in retail for womenswear.

In fact for the Spring/Summer 2018 (we analyzed data from Feb 1 – June 6), new arrivals at trendled retailers were down 1.2 percent and the shade’s presence in retail’s best performing products didn’t change from 2017.

Meanwhile, yellow broke out of its seasonal pattern in Q3 of 2017 and is still climbing. Spring/Summer new arrivals are up by 65 percent on last year and it has doubled its presence among retail’s best-selling products in womenswear this season.

Orange is up 48 percent, green is up 32 percent and even pink has climbed a further 20 percent.

We’ve looked at the changes to denim palettes over the last two years at trend-led millennial retailers, removing the classic blues, blacks and whites.

There has been a 22.5 percent increase in colored denim arriving, but below you can see exactly where those shades change away from murky military palettes and shift into the current oranges, yellows, strong reds and brighter greens.

WHICH CATEGORIES ARE MOST COLOURFUL?

INSTAGRAM Brands have got wise to it. New collections and accompanying campaigns are designed with Instagram in mind. Right now stripes and polka dots are far hotter than ditsy florals.

In the last three months, there has been a 74 percent increase in retailer newsletter mentions of “colour crush” from a year ago. Looking through EDITED’s Visual Merchandising software shows just how dramatically brands have shifted up their styling to grab consumer attention.

Colour is millennial peacocking – it’s the fastest way to stand out on an endlessly-updating feed. And when there’s no predominant apparel trend – no must-have pant shape or dress length – colour is a unifying force in fashion.

When you’re looking into category-specific colour, it’s worth noting that some categories are more prone to colour trends than others. Swim, dresses and accessories have a smaller focus on neutral (including greys and black) tones and put emphasis on other shades.

Suiting meanwhile has 52 percent emphasis on neutral shades (and it would be more were it not for the current blazer trend!).

SPRING/SUMMER BESTSELLERS Here are some of the strong saturated colours that arrived in the last three months and have already sold out at full price.

Black shrunk its presence in top performers by 2 percent in men’s and womenswear from Spring/ Summer 2017. In menswear, blues and navies fell by a dramatic 3.6 percent (when that 3.6% percent refers to 5,000+ products with an average price of $150) and women’s blues were down 2 percent.

photoshoot

WILL WEARS NOT FOR YOU JACKET IN GREY, KOWTOW CHOREOGRAPHY JUMPER IN BUTTERSCOTCH NOT FOR YOU ROUGH NIGHT JEANS DANIELLE WEARS NOT FOR YOU COAT IN BLUE DENIM TRACEYGH TROUSERS

24 I June 2018

WILL WEARS NOT FOR YOU RAINCOAT NOT FOR YOU HOODIE IN MAROON NOT FOR YOU JEANS IN BLACK.

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DANIELLE WEARS RACHEL MILLS PERRI TOP DEADLY PONIES MR PIPPY POUCH IN MARMALADE TRACEYGH SKIRT IN WHITE.

26 I June 2018

WILL WEARS NOT FOR YOU ROUGH NIGHT JACKET IN WHITE NOT FOR YOU HOODIE IN GREY NOT FOR YOU JEANS IN WHITE WYNN HAMLYN BAG

MODELS: DANIELLE AND WILL FROM 62 MODELS

BEAUTY: CHANTELLE VAN T VEEN

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SHOT BY: CAITLAN MITCHELL AT THIEVERY STUDIOS apparelmagazine.co.nz

When will the fashion industry take sustainability seriously?

With the planet now on gentle simmer, there’s no question that every industry is starting to consider sustainability as more than just a term futurists roll out.

And the apparel industry, which creates 53 million tonnes of landfill waste a year (73 percent of clothing ends its life in the dump), is one of the world’s biggest polluters. Of course, landfill isn’t the only sin this industry and its consumers commit, there’s also usage of non-renewable energy, water consumption, toxic waste, polluting microfibres and carbon emissions on the black list.

Given that the global population will have lifted 16 percent by 2030, there will be hordes more earthlings who will need dressing, and a growing middle class who will have more dollars with which to buy stuff.

This sustainability thing isn’t going away.

So what are apparel retailers doing about the murky record? This week, we have checked in on sustainable practices.

SUSTAINABILITY PROGRESS While ‘eco’ fashion has been bandied around all decade, it’s starting to feel like the wheels are turning on a more meaningful sustainability. The Global Fashion Agenda believes that 75 percent of fashion companies improved their sustainability score in 2017.

Earlier this month, the GFA held its annual Copenhagen Fashion Summit – the world’s largest sustainability conference. It counts 93 global companies, representing 207 brands, as committing to its goal. Those companies account for 12 percent of global fashion.

Along with pledges to circular systems, there’s been a huge movement away from fashion houses using fur, with notable abstainers including Gucci, Versace and Michael Kors.

synonymous with first wave sustainable fashion – perhaps they sound too ‘alternative’ for the mainstream, where a more technical take on sustainability is deemed most palatable?

It’s also interesting to note the growth in use of ‘non-toxic’ dyes – up 302 percent in two years, yet with stock levels below 1,500 products, too low to rank on this chart.

Regardless, the sum total of these properties accounts for just 1.3 percent of the global market.

Transparency is increasing, just not fast enough.

CONSUMER LEADING RETAIL OR VICE VERSA? So who will lead who? Are retailers going to wait it out until consumers knock HQ doors down to demand sustainability? Research suggests that’s not going to happen.

Earlier this year, LIM College consumer insight research showed that millennials don’t rank sustainability high in their purchasing considerations.

In fact, they place far more emphasis on ease of purchase, uniqueness of product, price and value and brand names than they do on sustainable properties.

That’s despite a huge rise in health and wellness pursuits and searches for plant-based diets up 190 percent.

NOW OR NEVER…

PROOF IN NUMBERS We are seeing that change reflected in the data. This chart shows how many products identifying with key sustainability keywords were in stock in the first quarter of 2016 compared to 2018.

Self-described ‘sustainable’ products have grown by 139 percent, vegan products grew 116 percent, bamboo is up 36 percent and recycled up 35 percent.

Meanwhile, ‘eco’ and hemp have fallen, by 4.4 percent and 7 percent respectively. They’re

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are great examples of fast fashion testing the market.

Both lines sell faster, receive less discounting and have a higher rate of replenishment than the retailers’ main lines.

H&M Conscious accounts for 5.4 percent of the retailer’s offering, with a 70 percent emphasis on kidswear. At Zara, Join Life represents 3.6 percent of the entire offering, with a 41 percent emphasis on kidswear.

H&M’s Conscious Collection is less colorful that its main line – one way of ensuring product won’t date so fast.

Evidence of the mass market’s increasing move into the area can be seen in the declining average price on adult’s jeans. Until the market fully matures, we expect to see pricing inconsistencies as retailers trial and price test new lines.

CHILDRENSWEAR AND SUSTAINABILITY Both Zara and H&M investing heavily in sustainable childrenswear is no coincidence. Babies have highly sensitive skin, with a higher volume of skin surface area to body volume. Babies skin is 30 percent thinner than adults, so it’s more vulnerable to absorbing harmful additives.

Early exposure to the dangerous ethers in synthetic fibers has even been linked to hormonal disruption and behavioural disorders. As millennial parents get increasingly clued up on this, the market will boom.

WHAT YOU CAN DO There’s enormous amount of hard work to be done by this industry. But when you look at the opportunity facing the industry, there are so many positives in being one of the leaders.

Just take a look at this assortment chart.

We are at a crucial lifestyle tipping point where consumers are gathering information and forming new values that will shape their future behaviors.

It’s the industry’s responsibility to fuel that, rather than wait for consumers tip. When they do, any laggers left outside will feel a harsh backlash. So it’s up to brands and retailers to educate consumers on why sustainability matters in apparel. But it has to do that while still delivering on product and price.

FAST FASHION & SUSTAINABILITY Fast fashion, driven on speedily-changing trends at low prices, isn’t especially compatible with sustainability. But this sector, more than any, has a role to play. Two of the world’s largest retailers are giving it a go.

Zara’s Join Life and H&M’s Conscious Collections

Swimwear and nightwear are still hugely underrepresented in sustainable apparel, which is an oversight given how close we wear these items to our bodies, and for sleep specifically, how much time we spend in them.

It’s a space that’s open for the taking. Get to it!

in detail

Jarrad Godman TOTAL BUZZKILL

Jarrad Godman’s forward season collection was heavily influenced by teen angst, passive aggression and cynicism. “Particualry that of the MySpace generation of c.2007,” added designer Jarrad Godman. He explained that looking back, it was a humorous and entertaining journey of reflection, not only to himself, but also his friends at the time. “Airing all our frustrations online for the world to see, before we knew of the consequences that came along with passive aggressively posting our feelings on the internet.”

Aptly titled ‘Total Buzzkill’, this Spring/Summer collection exudes a modern-day crossover of Courtney Love and Debbie Harry paired with the quintessential emo kid.

Every season, Jarrad Godman flaunts a custom print designed in-house

by Godman himself. This season, a custom silk print called Georgette features imagery of flames. “For our Spring/Summer collection, we really wanted something clean and minimal.”

The rest of the collection is made up of silks, viscose, and organic cotton for breathability and feel. Some of the basic everyday pieces utilise a viscose/spandex knit. “We

SUPERFLY SuperFly is the remake of the 1972 movie of the same name, shows the life of drug dealer, Priest, who want to get out of this trade and retire. The film depicts the lavish lifestyle of a drug kingpin, with beautiful women, huge mansions, expensive cars and pricey wardrobe. Costume designer Antoinette Messam recreated the cliché style of the African-American dealer featuring fur coats, leather jackets and eye-catching jewellery, mixed with on-trend high-end streetwear.

OCEAN’S 8 The female-led film is a sequel of the male-dominated 2001 Ocean’s 11.

With Oscar winner Sandra Bullock as the main character and successful actresses such as Cate Blanchett, Anne Hathaway, Mindy Kaling or even Rihanna to complete the casting, this movie is already predicted to be the most stylish of 2018. Costume designer, Sarah Edwards, presents us with different styles to complement the character’s personality, featuring a mix of polished, glamorous, androgynous and relaxed looks.

The movie, which depicts the journey of Debbie Ocean towards the heist of the century, reproduces one of the most fashionable events of the year, the Met Gala, giving the viewers a satisfying display of couture creations from fashion industry icons such as Zac Posen or Alexander Wang. A vast array of trendy coats, shoes and accessories complete the utterly fashionable looks of every character, for the delight of all the fashionistas out there.

also hand bleached cottons and viscose to create a lava-like effect that varies in every garment.”

This season offers 23 styles all of which are available in multiple fabrics and colourways.

One of the styles include a revamp of the original Schaab Robe from their first season. Another popular re-cut is their ever-popular Repo Tanks and “Good God, Man!” screen print. This is the first season that they have added in their take on tailoring, with the Mastermind Dress and Blouse which feature voluminous raw edged frills that juxtapose the crispness of the full garment. The collection also features rosettes which say “got cynicism” which are sold with some garments as well as individually.

Godman said it has been pretty difficult to pin down an ‘ideal demographic’ as he and his retailers have found the pieces are very versatile and are picked up by a diverse range of consumers. Jarrad Godman is ideal for retailers with an appreciation for innovative, locally made high-end streetwear.

Available for wholesale orders now, the collection drops in-stores late August onwards.

To make an enquiry or to order now, email info@jarradgodman.com.

fashionable films

LIFE OF THE PARTY This light-hearted movie pictures the life of Deanna, a devoted housewife who goes back to college after her husband left her. Full of regrets, she is ready to make the most of her senior year embracing her new freedom, fun and frat boys. This joyful comedy features colourful costumes inspired by the typical college student wardrobe, including the iconic prom dresses and the comfortable everyday jumper. The attaching and funny character’s wardrobe perfectly reflects her personality, with bright colours, flower patterns and sequins.

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