Apparel Magazine | JUNE 2019

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JUNE 2019 I VOL 52 I NO 06

editor ’ s note

VITAL SOURCE FOR BUYERS

This month, Apparel landed in Italy for Expo Riva Schuh where there was a heavy focus on sustainability for the future of footwear. Run in tandem with Gardabags, both expos were run once again at Riva del Garda. This comprehensive experience is ideal for buyers to see a huge variation of accessories and footwear from across the globe in one beautiful location. Flip to page 6 to see our footwear trend forecast for 2020. Gardabags was very promising showcasing a curated collection of international companies with on-trend handbags and accessories in a variety of materials and shapes. Large chunky soles proved to be the top trend and pink was the colour to watch. Meanwhile in accessories, hoop handles had a field day in Gardabags.

Accessory trend forecast from Carla Gozzi and a sustainability workshop with Lars Doemer, director and co-founder of GoBlu, were well received. More information can be found on our website.

There are a huge array of events and opportunities to be taken advantage of for emerging designers.

Whether this is at Vancouver Fashion Week in October, CENTRESTAGE in Hong Kong in September, or Hokonui Fashion Design Awards in Gore in July!

If you are interested in being featured in one of our international shows, simply send me your lookbook via email.

I bumped into someone who was explaining marketing to another person. They said: “Say you see a beautiful person at a party. You approach the person and say, ‘I'm fantastic in bed’. That's Direct Marketing. You're at a party with a bunch of friends and see a beautiful person.

You have one of your friends' approach them, point at you and say: ‘They’re fantastic in bed’. That's Advertising.

You see a beautiful person at a party. You approach them to get their telephone number. The next day you call and say: ‘Hi, I'm fantastic in bed’. That's Telemarketing.

You're at a party and see a beautiful person. You get up, straighten your clothes, walk up and pour them a drink.

You open the door, pick up their bag after it drops, offer them a ride, and then say: ‘By the way, I'm fantastic in bed’. That's Public Relations. You're at a party and see a beautiful person. They walk up to you and say: ‘I hear you're fantastic in bed’. That's Brand Recognition.”

ON THE COVER:

the numbers ...

This year’s Expo Riva Schuh in Italy saw 1462 exhibitors from over 100 countries.

New Zealand’s annual expenditure on clothing and footwear in 2016 was NZD$5.3 billion, making up 4% of GDP.

Leather footwear made up 52% of New Zealand’s exports in 2016, but only 20% of its imports.

Millennials in New Zealand now number over 1 million. In 2017 millennials spent twice as much on takeaways than they did on clothing.

CHAIRMAN

Peter Mitchell INTERN

Janet Guan PUBLISHER Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287 EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand CONTENT MANAGERS Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com +64 9 304 0142 EDITORIAL TEAM Ed Scott NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all

GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM

2 I June 2019

Chris Glavovic Raymund Sarmiento Ciaran Carroll

enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2018 NZ Apparel Magazine.

fashionable reads

Virgil Abloh: Figures of Speech

By Virgil Abloh One of the biggest names in fashion in 2019, Virgil Abloh, has diversified into writing with the launch of his new book Virgil Abloh: Figures of Speech. In his book, Abloh questions the world around him as he reviews his work and collaborations throughout the year. Alongside these musings sit archival images of the creative’s work, presenting an in-depth look at his ideas and influences. He has also compiled a fascinating selection of essays, interviews and insights from some of the fashion industry’s biggest names including Lou Stoppard, Michael Rock and Anja Aronowsky Cronberg.

This is undoubtedly one of the most anticipated books for the fashion industry in 2019.

Dressed in Dreams

By Tanisha C. Ford This book explores race, culture, politics and the power of fashion to empower people throughout history. From the Afros and hot pants of the sixties to baggy jeans and backwards caps in hip hop and the hooded jumpers of 2019, this pop culture expert unpacks the role of fashion in the movement and empowerment of Black America. Ford discusses the beauty of ‘ghettofabulous’ dressing and the pain in watching her culture appropriated by mainstream designers. This is a fascinating and enlightening read for anyone looking for a better understanding of the world of fashion and global community.

Time After Time

By Lisa Grunwald This fictional story is inspired by one of the most mystical legends of modern Britain. A woman appeared to vanish from Grand Central Terminal many years ago, and author Lisa Grunwald takes readers on a beautiful and engaging story about love, class and time. Grunwald presents a love story between two people who, by all logic, should never have met. But their dedication to one another tests the limits of time and space, as well as their own personal limitations.

Readers will be engrossed in this elegant and heart-warming read.

Carried Away: Bags Unpacked

By Grace Lai Beautiful imagery and fascinating insights into this core accessory sit in the pages of this chic new title from Grace Lai. The author explores bag designs from cultures all around the world and spanning generations. From army kitbags to high fashion couture bags, Lai unpacks issues of sustainability, politics, gender and so much more. An eponymous exhibition accompanies the book at the Auckland War Memorial Museum, and together they ask a selection of hard-hitting questions that bring into question the very fundamentals of this accessory.

Freephone: 0508 243 629 www.propress.co.nz

fast five

EMPOWER SUPPLEX® LYCRA®

NZFW HITS THE BOOKS New Zealand Fashion Week has partnered with Auckland Council to present a series of free fashion-centric activations across a range of venues during fashion week. These events will run alongside the official schedule and support the shared goal of enlivening Auckland’s city centre with fashion. One of these activation zones will be Auckland’s Central City Library, Tāmaki Pātaka Kōrero, and will focus on Ethical and Sustainable Fashion.

This year also sees a change of host venue, moving to Auckland’s Town Hall and Aotea Square where the very first New Zealand Fashion Week was held. “For the first time in 15 years, New Zealand Fashion Week is heading back to where it all began,” said NZFW founder and managing director Dame Pieter Stewart. “The bustling arts and culture precinct is at the heart of Auckland city, and the close proximity to the city’s most popular retail spaces and iconic destinations – such as Queen Street, K’ Road and Ponsonby – means the event will be more accessible than ever.”

LEADING THE NEXT GENERATION

EMPOWER SUPPLEX® LYCRA® 89% SUPPLEX® 11% LYCRA® 260gsm Chalk

Known for its production of American branded denim, Saitex has become the first certified B Corp factory in Asia and the only large scale manufacturer of denim to adopt the standards set forth by B Lab. Located in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, Saitex pumps out 18,000 pairs of jeans daily from beginning to end. Utilising their watersaving techniques, they are able to make a single pair of jeans with one litre, not 80. The factory also runs on renewable energy, solar, wind and biomass, to reduce its own carbon footprint. “We are the first large scale denim manufacturer and the largest one headquartered in Asia to achieve this certification and we did it because we are very keen to maintain our position as an industry leader,” said founder and CEO of Saitex, Sanjeev Bahl. “Not in a competitive stance, but rather because we want Saitex to be a guiding light across our fashion industry and beyond.”

EMPOWER SUPPLEX® LYCRA® 86% SUPPLEX® 14% LYCRA® 280gsm Peacock

ACTIVA SUBLIMATION BASE 87% POLY 13% LYCRA® 280gsm Natural Batik DES 4.0106 V1

Supportive Breathable Moisture Wicking Soft Natural Handle BLUESIGN® Approved OEKOTEX® 100 Certified

LYCRA® and SUPPLEX® is a trademark of The LYCRA Company

SURGE IN FASHION TECHNOLOGY The fashion industry was quick to adapt to the technology evolution, and at Hong Kong Fashion Week, they have been keeping the fair rich with content with the Fashion Tech zone. This was established to cater to the increasing demand for optimising manufacturing and other areas of business.

This July, you can expect to see the introduction of iGarment, a new innovative cloud-based production

4 I June 2019

coordination system covering everything from sample development to production to shipping. The four-day expo welcomes over a thousand exhibitors presenting their SS20 collections from brands to fabrics to accessories. As a premier sourcing platform, Hong Kong Fashion Week is ideal for buyers and is a gateway to Asian markets.For more information, visit www.event.hktdc.com.

CONTACT US FOR YOUR

FREE ARTWORK LIBRARY FREE COLOUR CARD TODAY! eclipse@eclipsetextiles.com.au

Australian Head Office: Auckland Display Location:

+61 7 3251 2970 0508 88 44 11

PROUD TO BE PART OF

ANOTHER BEAUTY GIANT LANDS IN NZ Australia’s first and largest online beauty retailer, Adore Beauty, will launch in New Zealand on July 1st. Known for its exceptional service, Adore Beauty is also home to over 100 global brands including Olapex, Oribe, Kerastase, Ultra Violette, and Alpha-H. Kate Morris founded the e-tailer in 1999, Adore Beauty has more than 200 brands, 14,000 products and over one million transactions under its belt.

“We’ve always prided ourselves at Adore Beauty on being a one-stop beauty destination offering highend department store brands alongside professional salon

brands and hard to find cult products,” explained Morris.

“We are thrilled that Adore Beauty will be able to offer the same exceptional service to our New Zealand customers, as we have done for our Australian customers for the past twenty years.”

Offering complimentary Tim Tams and express shipping on all orders, Adore Beauty boasts same day dispatch for orders placed by 4pm, Afterpay, and 90day returns. During the launch month of July, Adore Beauty New Zealand customers will receive a three-piece goodie bag with all orders.

WALK THE LINE A highly anticipated part of New Zealand Fashion Week, Walk The Line is part of YMCA’s Raise Up youth development programme. The invaluable work they do provides safe, positive and empowering opportunities for teenagers from all walks of life. The fun-filled show with a great cause showcases an array of talented youth creating their own fashion identity and focusing on self-expression. High school students from across New Zealand can apply for this opportunity to showcase their creations and be in to win major prizes. Now calling all 13-18 year olds to enter to be part of New Zealand’s premiere fashion event of the year. For more information, email kerrilee.lawrence@ymcaauckland.org.nz.

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footnotes

Highlighting the diverse world of the international footwear industry, Expo Riva Schuh’s 91st edition was a roaring success. Located in the heart of Riva Del Garda, Italy, we spoke to buyers and manufacturers about what to expect for 2020. Across all categories, unique textiles were used for details and point of difference. The top three textures found in 2020 collections were; neon and metallic, animal print, and lastly - weaving. Here is the full trend forecast for 2020 in footwear.

NATURAL BEAUTIES Cork, straw, and organic fabrics all featured heavily at Expo Riva Schuh, used without detracting from the style and elegance of the models - a sure sign of designers and companies showing more attention in their choices of raw materials and the processes they employ.

GO BIG OR GO HOME Extra high heels. Extra thick soles. ‘Big’ was definitely a key design feature while exploring the upcoming collections. Carrying on from previous ‘ugly shoe’ trends, the large sneaker soles are performing well and aren’t leaving us any time soon.

expo riva schuh

GARDABAGS

MINI ME Exploding throughout the childrenswear exhibitors were all the same trends for adults but made in mini versions. For example, the thick ‘ugly’ shoe trends were repeated in popular colourways for kids, enabling the adult and child to have an identical pair. Slip-on mechanisms were mostly used for these styles; combining comfort, style and ease-of-use for little ones.

ALL THAT SHINES

ROARING GOOD TIME

How could we miss it? Standing out like a sore thumb was a variety of metallic and glitter textiles across the expo. Mens, kids or womens – athleisure, formal or luxury; these are just a few of the sparkling gems we came across.

Snakes, cheetahs, zebras, oh my! Animal print has been around for generations and is still going strong in the market. So it’s no surprise it has made its way into one of the top trends of 2020 across multiple styles. Most commonly paired with the revival of the 90s aesthetic.

SAY IT WITH COLOUR Out with the old, in with the blue quality dyed leather. Standing out amongst the crowds were boldly dyed leathers, neon sneakers and bright pinks. There were plenty of colourful eye-catching pieces across the entire expo.

CONNECTIVITY A shoe that connects to your smartphone? It might be a novelty, but it’s part of a growing trend for increased connectivity. Innovative and in sync with the times, keep an eye out for ‘smart’ footwear increasing in childrenswear.

OLD TOWN ROAD Cowboy boots were everywhere and made of top quality materials. Utilising the traditional and iconic shape, manufacturers had fun with the colourways and revisiting the silhouette.

While some pieces stayed true to the classic style, others ventured out redesigning the heel or cut the boot into a brogue.

TRADITIONAL WITH A TWIST Staying true to their original forms, these classic footwear styles have been revisited either in colour, design or form. Much like these platform flat espadrilles or these embossed leather brogues, many exhibitors boasted quality traditional craftsmanship paired with modern design.

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SS20

Apparel Magazine is showcasing emerging Kiwi designers at Vancouver Fashion Week’s SS20 season. This unique opportunity is thanks to our ongoing partnership with Vancouver Fashion Week which allows three upcoming designers to showcase their designs on an international stage to a range of international and local buyers, agents, distributors, industry influencers and media.

be seen .

Showcase your designs as part of our next group show in October.

Our unique group runway opportunity includes: - Venue, stage, lighting, sound - Security - Models - Shoes - Hair - Makeup

- Backstage management and support - Backstage equipment - Guestlist (Including front row seats) - Fashioncamp - Media Coverage Package (worth $15,000)

nzapparel@reviewmags.com +64 9 304 0142 ext 706

8 I June 2019

10 minutes with

Samantha Jones FOUNDER/CEO, LITTLE YELLOW BIRD

Samantha Jones of New Zealand corporate-wear brand Little Yellow Bird talks their communityowned campaign, sustainability and transparency.

As a part of the RNZAF, Jones wore a uniform for six years and felt stifled by the lack of control she had over the production of the clothes she wore on a daily basis. “When I moved into the corporate sector, I found that I had choices but not many options,” Jones said. This limitation Jones was faced with when it came to making ethical fashion choices inspired her to launch the brand Little Yellow Bird, which endeavours to bring Kiwis sustainable corporate apparel options.

Jones expressed that she believes ethical production is crucial to the fashion industry moving forward as the current systems in place are simply not viable for the long term. “It is critical that we change as the current model is completely unsustainable,” she insisted. “We don’t have enough resources to keep up with the status quo.” To combat the trend of throwaway fashion, Little Yellow Bird ensures that their factories follow Fairtrade guidelines and they closely monitor their

whole supply chain. “Made in New Zealand does not necessarily mean made ethically, especially if the fabrics don’t have traceability,” Jones elaborated.

“Our factories also follow a number of zero-waste initiates, and we are continuously working to minimise waste and utilise closed loop systems.”

Transparency sits alongside sustainability as this label’s key focus, and its unique community-owned agenda is fulfilling this need. “We’ve always done things a little bit differently, and that’s been the same here.” A great deal of interest and support began arising for the sustainability-minded brand, and turned this interest into something beneficial for both the company and their consumers.

Interested parties can buy shares in the company and help mould it into the most ethical and communally beneficial version of itself.

Having a community-owned business means that the goals of the consumers match the goals of the brand, giving the company a somewhat circular operational scheme. “It immediately means that we now have a bunch more ambassadors and people

that are hopefully talking and promoting us in their network,” she added. Advice, support, connections, and of course, financial assistance are all among the benefits of having a community-owned brand.

“I think this system makes us a better company. It also gives us the means to grow and develop our product range, which means more options for our customers.”

This community engagement has allowed the brand to push ahead with their new collections as well as expanding their holdings. “You can expect to see some new products come out, we will be hiring a couple of new team members, and we will be revamping our website over the next few months,” shared Jones. With the support of the community they serve, and that serves them, the brand hopes to push their sustainable message further. Jones hopes that Little Yellow Bird will become an icebreaker of organic cotton and closely monitored supply chains while continuing to educate the masses on the benefits of ethical fashion.

meet the buyer

The Standard Store NICOLA REINDORF

This Australian Boutique has unique insights into the industry, as lead buyer Nicola Reindorf explained. “We had a distribution agency 10 years before we decided to move into retail, so we have a great insight into how other buyers worked, from large department stores to little boutiques.” This understanding and experience was priceless for the company, who have outlets in the heart of both Melbourne and Sydney, fashion capitals for the country.

When it comes to buying, Reindorf expressed her store’s commitment to providing its customers with a unique fashion experience. “We are always on the search for something new and unique, particularly brands that have little exposure in Australia.” The Standard Store’s customers have a great variation as the boutique specialises in both men’s and women’s wear and has a variety of ages coming through their doors. “Our customer could be anyone who appreciates good quality, unique pieces. When looking for new designers, what is essential to Reindorf is not their reputation or existing reach but unique beauty and impeccable quality. “What stands out for us is a brand with a point of difference yet being still commercially viable. Good quality is a must, nothing mass produced,” she explained. “Like our customer base, our designer portfolio is very broad. We have quite a few different styles going on but with one recurring theme: beautiful, well-made pieces.”

The price point of selected brands is also a central feature for this retailer, as they are conscious of retaining the attention of their customers. “We are mid-range, it’s important that you have some good entry price points we don’t want to alienate our customers. But as we deal with foreign currency, it is very dependent on our dollar, which unfortunately is not as strong as it was a

10 I June 2019

few years ago,” related Reindorf. However, a good price point is not to be confused with adhering to the throwaway fashion trend, as The Standard Store’s consumers do not adhere to the fad. “It is amazing how savvy and environmentally aware the young consumer has become; they would prefer to buy one good piece that will stand the test of time rather than lots of cheap throw away pieces that damage the environment.”

For Reindorf, one of the keys to their boutique’s success is in the quality of the designers they stock, and this belief in quality over quantity has extended from their collections to their operations. “Retail is a tough business, and there is always this expectation that you need to expand to be successful. We opened our third store in Barangaroo in 2017, and it was a disaster. We promptly closed it in 2018,” she shared.

“Bigger is not necessarily better.” Adapting to your market is a skill Reindorf and her team have been greatly focused on, and their method of buying reflects this adaptability. “We have two large drops a year and then a further two smaller drops for precollections. Most of the designers we stock are from overseas with reverse seasons,” informed Reindorf.

However, rather than attempting to combat this seemingly reverse order, the store has embraced the difference and simply allocates costs differently.

“We are finding that we are spending more on precollections and less on main as its more relevant for our climate.”

For brand’s looking to The Standard Store for potential retail opportunities, Reindorf was able to provide some firm advice. “Approach retailers with professionalism, don’t just walk in off the street,” she insisted. “We are inundated with emails every week from designers and to be honest I delete most of them without reading them. You have to go above and beyond to get an appointment, that shows commitment to what you are doing. Don’t just rely on emails; make a personal connection.”

Photo Credit: Getty Images Designer: Stolen Girlfriends Club

Join us as we celebrate the very best of the New Zealand Fashion industry.

Delegate registration opens from the 1st of July.

Visit www.nzfashionweek.com/delegates to secure your place.

26 August 2019 | 1 September 2019

Auckland Town Hall & Aotea Square

in detail

Jojo Ross BRAVE ENCOUNTERS Landing in stores in August, Jojo Ross’ Spring/ Summer 19/20 collection is titled Brave Encounters.

The collection is very much an introspective range, designer Jojo Ross recently turned 30 and her label turned three. “It has been a time of self-reflection,” she said. “I really wanted to honour my original and continual inspirations and moods I feel are truly Jojo Ross – not just in a brand sense, but within myself.”

In a convoluted way, Ross pulled these inspirations together into one space and created a room for them.

“In this room is a trickling water feature, it is a modernist space, a gallery, and is sparsely furnished.

If you peer outside of a small window, you can see stars and planets drifting by as this room is inside a spacecraft, Discovery One, quietly floating through the universe.” Ross added that the collection is future fashion, sci-fi, modern and minimalist with a retro touch. “It’s brave.”

Inspired by an amalgamation of her favourite things, there are a lot of specialty fabrics in the range.

One piece in particular, Space Flower, is a unique Jacquard made in a famous textile factory in Lyon, France. The denim is a traditional Japanese Selvedge denim; Ross commends its beauty and comfort.

Another material used across several pieces is an abstract print made of a silk cotton blend. “It has a cool modern art vibe and its weight is perfect for so many summer styles.” Notoriously difficult to work

12 I June 2019

with, Ross added liquid silver and gold fabrics of a silk lurex blend to the collection. “Their liquid look totally embodied the essence of the range and they move so incredibly on the body,” Ross explained. “One of my favourite pieces is my Galaxy T-shirt, a guilty pleasure, they’re block printed in a jelly-like solid silver glitter and are just so special.”

She made sure to include some of her most popular styles from previous collections such as the Astronomical Hoodie, Exploration Pants, Nimbus Knit and Flight Pants.

The label is looking to align itself with like-minded retailers who are excited and supportive of New Zealand designers. Last minute wholesale orders are still available via email at jojo@jojoross.com.

A quick guide to pricing a killer utility assortment

edited

Utilitarian styles continue to dominate the mass market, underlining the staying power of the boilersuit. Early this year we saw 83 percent more boilersuits retailing in the US than there was in December 2018 and 50 percent more in the UK.

The utilitarian fashion trend became popular in the 1970s during the rise of second-wave feminism and the military-inspired style is having a revival again.

This report outlines the top performing utility items that are important within the womenswear market.

Our data reveals the styles that have already seen success commercially, backing up their importance as you plan for the summer season.

YOUR KILLER UTILITY ASSORTMENT CHECKLIST Using EDITED software, we ran the numbers on 22 retailers stocking styles to build a pricing benchmark.

When investing in any trend, it’s crucial to understand where the key players are sitting to make sure you have a competitive offer.

Since 2012, utilitarian style has become a staple runway trend influencing the mass market. Spurred on by the now-classic boilersuit, utility inspirations dominated retailers’ spring 2019 assortments, continuing as a key trend for summer. As the weather heats up, lighter fabrications for this trend come in to play. In Q1 2019, the number of linen apparel arrivals increased by 51 percent both in the US and UK, confirming its status as the fabric of choice this season. And tying into the safari and military elements of this trend, new khaki product in Q1 saw a 64 percent increase YoY while neutrals are up by 36 percent.

THE ALL-IN-ONE In the past three months, 198 new utility-inspired all-in-ones arrived in the US market across 22 fast fashion retailers, proving this silhouette is showing no signs of slowing down. The top retailers buying in are Banana Republic (36), Old Navy (25), and Zara (23). How do these numbers compare with how much you’ve invested in this item?

While these guys register as the item with the highest exit price point (driven by the “Dalennah” jumpsuit at Club Monaco), they also have one of the lowest entry prices, influenced by the romper styles. The wide range gives retailers more flexibility in pricing this trend to suit their target customers.

As high summer product starts to trickle into the market, retailers are updating heavy, full-length denim boilersuits into cropped lengths or lightweight fabrics. Linen jumpsuits are emerging as a hero item as brands push safari-inspired edits and communications. Take note of the ‘Jane in the Jungle’ details of top performing styles: wide-leg shapes, functional pockets, and shirt collars.

THE SHIRTDRESS A favored silhouette in the mid and mature market, the shirtdress has been a top-performing style season on season. A utilitarian twist on this classic shape is a natural addition to the assortment.

Our data reveals 38 new styles arrived over the past 3 months with the majority stocked at Boden. Boden and Banana Republic offered the highest full price for this item at $139.00 and $129.00 respectively. This is another opportunity to add linen into your assortment as 58 percent of the latest additions contained the fabric in its care and composition.

While traditional earthy tones work well here, chambray and navy blue were also noted selling through.

HOW DOES YOUR UTILITY ASSORTMENT COMPARE? The data is clear that utility is going nowhere and it can help you achieve your summer best buy.

THE CARGO PANT A utility go-to for any season, Zara wasted no time and released 31 new styles, while also being responsible for the lowest entry price points at $39.90. Banana Republic more than doubled that with the highest exit price, $110.00, for cropped cargos tailored exclusively for its Japanese customer.

Classic styling and details such as paper bag waists, belts, and patch pockets continued to trend for the cargo. Zara steered away from traditional utility fabrics and favored satin as a lightweight update, a unique take resulting in high SKU activity.

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I 13

industry according to

Kristine Crabb Every day we hustle - for the love of retail.

My mother was a school dental nurse in rural New Zealand in the 1950’s and 60’s; when you think about it, they were the original sales people.

In the old days, it was called the Murder House.

But my mum had a refreshing technique; she “sold” the kids their dental hygiene by being kind, funny and knowledgeable (not to mention fabulous). She is the ultimate salesperson - she can sell anything from good ideas to the garage sale bric-a-brac - but in retail, she was particularly great, and she was the inspiration for my dream shop gals. Such was the dedication to retail life that my mother would low-key secret shop my staff when she came to visit, to be sure they were on their toes at all times.

Retail has always been a big part of my working life. My first job was in a luxury fragrance boutique in Hamilton at age 14 wrapping up Christmas gifts and where I learned how it was done. It was a complete dream job for me, being around and selling luxury products, with an amazing close-knit team of glamorous women, just as brands like YSL, Chanel and Dior et al were becoming mainstream; they were still exclusive to us and our customers. Each member of staff was committed to service and achieving the targets, being fabulous and having so much fun while doing it. We were led by a divine and humble boss and stunningly beautiful and dedicated manager.

The goal for anyone working in fashion retail is to hustle, hustle, hustle. Whether it's helping customers in-store, calling up customers, inviting people to visit, creating an event, keeping the store impeccably clean and tidy, problem-solving, bonding with your team members and manifesting your targets. It's a busy day where you give so much energy. These days, there is always the hustle for online and social media also.

Retail is a fine art and those that understand this, really thrive. It's like a game; getting a kick out of selling, reaching targets and having the coolest, most satisfied customers and building an enduring fanbase.

It is serious business, and one your business can't sustain unless it's taken seriously which we did at Miss Crabb.

“My colleagues were intimidatingly beautiful, style savvy and superior sellers. Finding new ways to drape each garment, tying a sash - far beyond even Kristine's imagination - became something of a competitive sport, and unveiling the versatility of each style to customers was executed with the finest of a magic trick” - ex-shop girl Beatrice Hazlehurst for Vice Magazine.

Much like our cult following, the store became like family for everyone that worked there and loved the function of retail. You form strong bonds with your co-workers, often bonding over eccentric customers or quiet hours to fill. But also progressive conversations about body image and the changing landscape of fashion and topical stories. Thankfully there was never a culture of gossip or bitchiness at Miss Crabb - I think everyone was actually too busy doing their job or their side hustle! It's a hectic day from start to finish and you give so much of your energy to your customers.

“I feel blessed to have encountered all your work over the past 15 years through entering those very same Miss Crabb doors on Ponsonby Road. In all my visits I've never once felt anything but a calm, serene, beautiful and generous vibe.

All your staff do you and your designs justice

Retail is a fine art and those that understand this, really thrive.

It's like a game; getting kick out of selling, reaching targets and having the coolest, most satisfied customers and building an enduring fanbase.

14 I June 2019

- somehow, your (art-fashion) project (from my humble point of view) has got it so so right. It is rare and almost impossible 'getting it right’.” - Dr Maria O’Connor, Senior Lecturer of Post Graduate Studies at AUT University and longtime customer of Miss Crabb.

In recent years, the function of classic oldfashioned retail has evolved due to the massive impact on culture, marketing and purchasing habits caused the revolution of the internet. In our increasingly time-poor lives, the retail experience has become an important luxury and branding tool for your customers and clients. Service and experience in-reallife has become more important to business owners, staff members and clients, which now also must be backed up by an online presence and social media kudos. Carefully curated events and product launches are increasingly important to retail life and culture and the perfect way to collaborate with other likeminded business to create a memorable experience.

I am really excited to see how these three aspects of business develop with technology and consumer habits … all part of the interesting and quirky business of the rag trade which we are lucky to be part of, such a vibrant progressive industry.

TRAIL B

CHLOE Resene Roadster

ailoring has been a traditional construction technique used in fashion design for decades. In the last few years, tailoring has dropped off with athleisure dominating the runway, 2019 has seen a resurgence of the suit in many collections and trends.

Through the years, tailoring has changed dramatically from the style of Yves Saint Laurent’s Smokers suit; which was one of the first made for women, and was timeless, sharp and form-fitted. Then with the likes of Hellesey’s trompe l’oeil silhouettes, there is suiting with textured fabrications, bold rich colour combinations, creating a modern glamour approach with ease and comfort. Suiting can now be styled in a casual way rather than formal.

Designers have recontextualised the suit, experimenting with silhouette, pattern, colour and fit. In many of the recent 2020 resort collections,

16 I June 2019

SPORTMAX Resene Blue Bark

designers have displayed innovative ways of tailoring and different ways a suit can be styled.

Set against the hazy skies of China’s bustling metropolis, newly appointed head designer of Chloe, Natacha Ramsay-Levi, released a collection inspired by her love for Chinese cinema. The references were small but effective, such as the side buttons on a floral dress that evoked a qipao, and two prominent flag-red looks. There were also tiny embroideries inspired by traditional Chinese handiwork, with relaxed tailored attire reminiscent of Resene Roadster.

Celebrating its 50th anniversary, Sportmax delivered a collection celebrating the spirit of the label, which is rooted in an urban style defined by a combination of sartorial influences and sporty touches. This collection featured chic suits that were

HELLESSY Resene Celestial Blue

modern and fresh with futuristic elements being incorporated in accessories that were featured in the collection. Similar to Resene Blue Bark, the ensemble included a box-like tailored jacket with a straight legged trouser that features a single cording that runs through the centre of the leg.

Uruguayan luxury womenswear designer Gabriela Hearst recently launched her first menswear collection. Through the development process, she started making some of her women’s tailoring at a menswear factory, and proudly shows off the results in this latest 2020 resort collection. The designer explored new ways to use the fabrics as well as using exotic fabrics such as aloe linen that moisturises the skin and denim that once was dead stock. Suiting has become prominent for the label, this collection

BLAZERS

GABRIELA HEARST Resene Quarter Spanish White

features jackets that gathered and tied at the waist, not with belts but via pattern making and construction.

Close to Resene Quarter Spanish White, this woollen ensemble features a classic suit jacket that has shaping at the hip giving an hourglass silhouette, the jacket also features tucks on each side of the front with a frayed rope extending from the tuck.

Sylvie Millstein continues to redefine what separates mean in a woman’s wardrobe. Millstein launched this resort collection of 32 looks all in a tertiary colour palette one look that stood out the most was this pinstripe suit. The double-breasted jacket, in a hue like Resene Celestial Blue, is simplistic however the cut and addition of the dress shirt sleeve and the lower hemline of a shirt allows for an interesting suit jacket.

VERONICA BEARD Resene Okey Dokey

Veronica Beard focuses on creating a modern uniform for a woman. In this collection, she used a lot of neutral tones with pops of orange, yellow and blue. Much of Beard’s tailoring utilises traditional techniques that make for a versatile garment. The suit features a loose fitted single-breasted jacket with a palazzo type trouser in a colour like Resene Okey Dokey.

Alice Temperley’s most recent resort collection conveys a sense of regalness through print and the manipulation of fabrics. The I-line silhouette is cohesive as are the lightweight fabrics used. This elegant collection included a couple of tailored looks, one of which was reminiscent of Resene Machiavelli.

TEMPERLEY Resene Machiavelli

MONSE Resene Nero

This corduroy suit features a single-breasted fitted jacket as well as a flared trouser but the colour and fabric choice are the highlight of this look.

This year’s 2020 collection by Monse surprises you with its references. From shipping labels to cycling jerseys to their own pets, the only common denominator is that the themes are accidental.

The collection features unique ways of tailoring recontextualised suiting with interesting cuts and style lines. The colour palette includes the combination of navy, white, grey and a black like Resene Nero. This muted palette was interrupted with the introduction of warmer colours such as orange and red.

editor ' s pick

Emerging designers you need to know EMILY VERHAAREN Emily Verhaaren’s first ever fashion collection was a five-piece line for the Ballantynes Emerging Designer competition, which was inspired by her love for nature and vintage textiles. “Looking at eighteenthcentury paintings of flowers, I tried to find a print to match the vintage feel,” explained the designer.

“When I saw this magnolia print, I knew it was right because it had the same careful detail and earthy tones as the paintings.” The magnolia flower was central to her design beyond the use of this textile, it also influenced her silhouettes and fabric choices. “These flowers are almost in themselves a woman,” she elaborated. “The shape of the petals and the way it unfurls from a bud all resemble this graceful process, similar to the maturing of a young woman.” Verhaaren selected natural fabrics, including a crisp cotton to help construct her garments. “It has a certain stiffness about it, making it contour around the female body in a very flattering way,” she elaborated. “This along with a silk crepe and cotton lace formed the essence of my collection.”

Verhaaren is currently in her last year of study at the New Zealand Fashion Institute and expressed that despite approaching the final months of her Diploma she is eager to continue learning. “I am still

TANNAZ BARKHORDARI Born and raised in Tehran, Tannaz Barkhordari moved to New Zealand in 2010 to study at Whitecliffe College of Art & Design after completing her degree in textile engineering at Azard University in Iran.

Some of her earliest memories are of her grandmother, or ‘Mamani’, sewing clothes, pillowcases, and curtains on a treadle. “She never threw anything out,” said Barkhordari.

Continuing in this vein, Barkhordari works in-house with a small team and a few interns to create her work, often sewing garments herself to retail under the name Tannaz Boutique. “Sewing taught me selfconfidence, the importance of patience and self-control, and improved my confidence,” she told Apparel. “I love designing, but at the same time sewing can help me to design.”

She strives to create “timeless, high quality garments that are designed to last.” It’s clear from Barkhordari’s passion that she is not merely jumping on the sustainability bandwagon, as she speaks powerfully about the need for change at an industry-wide level. “While the price we pay for clothing has sharply

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decreased, the human and environmental costs have grown dramatically,” she said. “The insatiable appetite for cheap clothing has resulted in the exploitation of millions of workers around the world.”

Citing designers like Hussein Chalayan and Stella McCartney as figures of inspiration, Barkhordari enjoys combining ideas from her Iranian heritage with contemporary styles. “I was fortunate enough to move to this beautiful country with beautiful people,” she said. “I want to show people about my culture as well, through prints, colours, and patterns, and let people know the Middle East is not what most people believe it to be.”

This collection has an important connection to Minimalism art where abstract forms are divided by lines, creating shapes that are two or three dimensional. Her practice seeks to concentrate on specific shapes, patterns and fabrics rather than on the purpose of accentuating the shape of the body. It translates the important elements of minimalism through the use of clean, simple lines and geometric shapes to create functional, yet sculptural garments. The idea of structure and neat forms, as well as scale and volume, were to reference the similarities between minimalist sculpture and fashion.

This collection also draws from a tradition of minimalist abstraction

learning every day and want to continue to do so,” she related. Patience and perseverance are some of the most important skills she has attained through her training. “There are points in the design process where things can go wrong or not quite how you expected, so learning to work with the frustration and allow these mistakes to be part of the creative journey is important.” She also gained more niche industry knowledge during her time with a selection of local fashion houses, including Ingrid Starnes and Vinka Designs. From organising patterns to testing dye consistencies and quality assurance, Verhaaren developed a range of skills which could be translated into any future collaboration. “I also learnt a lot about how small businesses run and the importance of having good relationships with your customers.” Her six-week trip to India, alongside her college, also contributed to her immense skillset.

Verhaaren expressed that this scholarship experience was definitely one of the most rewarding times in her career.

Verhaaren hopes to work with more industry players to continue developing her skills and collaborate on new and exciting projects. “Working alongside talented designers would teach me so much, and it would be a privilege to learn from them and their experiences.”

in the Persian culture in Iran, which is present in art, architecture and textile design.

The simplicity and geometric shapes of minimalist sculpture inspired her to look at Persian Gabbeh carpets. The patterns and colours of the flat weave of Gabbeh hand – woven rugs have many similarities to minimalism. The colour and texture of Gabbeh are referenced in the collection through the use of thick cashmere and wool fabric, dyed yarn and handmade crochet and a tonal palette of beige pink, burgundy and cream.

“I have developed a project to provide work for Iranian women who have a strong desire to change their lives,” Barkhordari added.

“Talented women who live in different tribes in my country have made bags for my collection, and this provides and enables them to grow confident and gain respect, as well as receive payment for their craft and skills.”

GEORGIA FIELDING “I have always been excited by the way fashion celebrates human expression and individuality and was drawn to the idea of becoming a designer in an industry with few creative boundaries,” shared Fielding.

The emerging designer started her career by attaining a Bachelor of Creative Industries, majoring in fashion design, which is where she discovered the area of the industry, she is now most passionate about.

“During my studies, I have become acutely aware of the negative impact the fashion industry has on both the environment and self-worth,” explained Fielding.

Fielding is now dedicating her career, and her eponymous brand, to helping to reduce these harmful aspects of the industry by focusing on inclusive, sustainable and transparent branding.

Fielding’s Autumn/Winter 2019 collection embodied this sustainable approach to fashion, as it was created using repurposed materials and is designed to be both gender neural and size inclusive. “The garments include design features such as asymmetric cuts and raw hem finishes, going against the tailored

standard we are so used to seeing in high-end fashion,” she said. To create the collection, Fielding drew on her profound industry knowledge, which she gained through her studies as well as through her various internships.

“During my first year of study, I worked under Robyn Dowdall, constructing garments for Tarnished Frocks and Divas.”

“I gained valuable knowledge about the process of styling and coordinating outfits to fit within a given theme and the importance of this when creating an overall look and concept.”

The emerging designer is looking to

continue to push her inclusive and sustainable brand and sees great opportunity in the industry for a label such as hers. “As we are beginning to see a shift in the buying habits of consumers towards ethical and sustainably sourced fashion, the demand for this continues to rise, with the opportunity to create a brand that demonstrates these core values.”

Fielding’s collections are currently available from High Street Boutique in Tauranga on a made to order basis, where she is working on expanding her holding. I have“have plans to create a multifaceted, shared workspace in the coming months that will provide a studio and retail space for both emerging and aspiring designers in the Bay of Plenty.”

ANNA WILSON This emerging designer has a flair for the extravagant and wants to create clothing that embodies the same wonderous nature as those she adored as a child.

“I always felt like everyday clothes were boring and was drawn to the fantastical,” explained Wilson. From the elegant gowns of Barbie and the Nutcracker to the sultry costumes of Chicago, Wilson loved the way outfits could tell a story and was sure her career path reflects this admiration.

Wilson studied costume design in the USA before moving to Massey University and attaining a Bachelor of Design (Hons). “University allowed me to explore the specific areas of fashion I was interested in and to gain specific skills that I knew I wanted,” shared the emerging designer. Wilson applied these skills she found at Massey and her love of out-of-the-box extraordinary fashion into the creation of her latest collection, No Natural Looks. “The collection is an exploration into an alternate fantasy world called the Elsewhere,” said Wilson.

“It’s

about alter-egos and becoming a fantastical version of yourself.” The line was heavily inspired by rave culture and the idea of escaping the real world to a sort of utopia. “These alter egos are bathed in hedonistic seduction and invite onlookers to join them in the Elsewhere, like rave sirens luring unexpecting victims to pure bliss.”

To communicate her ambitious concept, Wilson created a series of nude illusions using skin tone power mesh and digitally printed spandex, then gave each look a unique persona. One of Wilson’s highlights from the collection is the Maleficent set, which includes a leotard and removable skirt. “I

made it specifically to appear like a skin-tight gown with sky-high leg slits, plunging neckline and no back. But when the wearer dances, they have full manoeuvrability without exposing themselves.”

Wilson expressed her excitement to continue down this flamboyant and experimental path as she develops her career and is eager to make her mark on the New Zealand fashion industry. “Becoming a familiar face in the relatively small New Zealand industry and meeting amazing people who share my interests is the goal,” she presented. Wilson believes that all fashion should be drenched in magic and is excited to start executing her future plans.

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retail eye

Ingrid Starnes

The elegant womenswear brand Ingrid Starnes outgrew their Auckland flagship location and have moved to a new part of the Ponsonby suburb. “We loved the location and neighbours at our lovely little corner of Ponsonby but had completely outgrown our space,” added designer Ingrid Starnes. “Our workroom is attached to the store and over the years it has been a great space but we no longer could squeeze another pattern or collection in.” Now settled two doors down at 78 Ponsonby Road with the workroom upstairs; the space was designed in-house

by Ingrid and Simon Starnes showcasing a beautiful continuation of their love of lush fabric and plants.

By having the workroom upstairs, it allows Starnes

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to continue to offer made-to-measure bridal pieces and to maintain a connection to their customers which is beneficial during the design and sampling process. “We sample collections and make small-run production from upstairs and that’s also where we make all our made-to-measure pieces,” said Starnes.

“It’s a fast-growing part of the brand offering.”

The store itself has plants spilling over into flowering Hoya and full floor-to-ceiling emerald velvet curtains for the changing rooms. The retail space was previously Minnie Cooper for many years, Starnes added that she absolutely adores the double windows flanking the door and the sunny workroom upstairs overlooking Western Park. They chose the location

due to spending the last three years building a brand presence on this part of Ponsonby Road so it was a natural move for them to only move two doors down.

With nine years of retail experience under their belt, the duo decided to create their own fitout in-house.

“We have developed and created a strong design aesthetic that represents the Ingrid Starnes brand,” she said. “Each time we open a new store or develop a new collection, this keeps evolving and changing. It’s also great fun and another way to tell our design story and create a brand experience.”

The space has become a fresh representation of the brand itself. Elegant, artistic with a touch of classic femininity.

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meet the buyer

Dapper Mr Bear SHEREE MCKIRDY

“We love to be original and timeless, with a sense of fun.”

Those are the words of Sheree McKirdy, founder and owner of Dapper Mr Bear. Sheree set up her company whilst on maternity leave with her first son, in a bid to source high quality, ethically produced clothing and products for children. That was over 2 years ago now, and she hasn’t look backed since.

Dapper Mr Bear specialises in middle and high-end children’s clothing, encouraging consumers to choose quality over quantity. It’s a business model well-suited to an increasingly eco-conscious customer base. “We’ve seen things being handed down from one sibling to the next,” Sheree told us, “and still in amazing order.”

McKirdy adopts an instinctive approach to buying.

“My motto when buying is if I’d put my boys in it (and soon to be daughter) then it’s a must have.” She didn’t start out like that, though. “In the past I would sometimes take on styles I didn’t personally love but thought others would,” she said. “I found they were always the styles left over at the end of the season.”

Could it be that McKirdy has a gift of foresight, spotting what will sell and what won’t telepathically?

Well, perhaps. But it’s also likely got something to do with the fact that if a seller isn’t enthusiastic about a product, the customer will know it – even online. “I think my customers can tell what’s genuine and what’s not, and therefore if we don’t personally love it, then it makes it hard to promote and sell.” McKirdy’s approach gives the brands she does choose to work with the advantage of an immediately trusting consumer base.

“If they’re embraced well by us, they are embraced well by our customers too.”

Our conversation turned to what McKirdy looks for when considering new products. “What makes it very hard is when brands send through sketches only, or very limited imagery,” she said. “You can’t always tell what the finished product will look like.” Instead, McKirdy prefers “quality images and lifestyle shots that give us a true feel of what we are buying.” New products also need to slot into Dapper Mr Bear’s existent catalogue – “With our home decor pieces we want people to be able to make up whole rooms and spaces with our gorgeous pieces throughout. We like variety, but with a sense of cohesion.” This approach ensures that the company’s stock fits together aesthetically, helping to cultivate and encourage brand loyalty. “Customers being able to add to what they have previously purchased and not start again on a new look all the time is key.”

So how should a new brand go about presenting themselves to potential buyers? McKirdy advises applicants to present themselves in a professional

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manner, and take time to construct a personalised email advising why they think they’d be a good fit. “We get daily emails from companies saying they want us to stock their products,” McKirdy said. “It’s just copy and paste. At first glance you can tell they haven’t even looked at our website to get a sense of what we are about.”

Aside from doing your research, the best advice McKirdy has to offer is to focus on the quality of your output, and trust that your products will speak for themselves. “For the most part we hunt out the brands we want to stock.” It’s an ethos that Dapper Mr Bear adopts as well, electing to avoid the ‘constantly on-sale’ approach of other retailers. “We like to carry lines that are popular all year round and year after year, so then people aren’t feeling like their tastes are already outdated just because they bought it a few months earlier.” By avoiding sales or extensive seasonal stock, McKirdy encourages consumers to buy products as and when they see them, instead of waiting for a better price.

McKirdy’s approach to business is to not shy away from asking for a fair price for a high quality product, and it’s a style that consumers are increasingly deeming valuable. “For some people the prices would seem high, but customers understand the value of quality. They buy fewer pieces and put them on higher rotation knowing they’ll last.” The business has also

become more eco-aware in line with its customer’s concerns. “We certainly ask more questions than when we first started out, especially buying off look books only,” she said.

Looking ahead, McKirdy is optimistic. “We have some stunning new collections coming through later in the year,” she told us. “Colour is starting to make a bit of a comeback through a variety of the ranges we stock.”

For more information, visit dappermrbear.com For sales, email hello@dappermrbear.com

growing babies organically.

Nature Baby provides a world that nurtures you, your baby and nature .

All products are carefully selected for quality, purity and design and are produced in a way that cares for your baby, the earth and its workers. Organic cotton and merino are grown and processed without the use of harmful chemicals, leaving nothing on baby’s clothes except pure goodness.

www.naturebaby.co.nz

radar

Child & Baby FOCUS ON ORGANICS Nature Baby is a New Zealand-owned family business established twenty years ago by Georgia and Jacob Faull. “After the birth of our first child, we were inspired to find natural and organic alternatives for our own children, rather than having to rely on synthetic products,” Georgia Faull explains. Nature Baby makes a range of certified organic cotton and pure merino wool essentials that are carefully designed for quality, purity, usefulness, and are produced in a way that cares for the earth and its workers. Nature Baby also offers a botanical skincare range for mothers and babies, and their best-selling lambskin booties made here in New Zealand.

The demand for natural and organic products has grown strongly over the last 20 years, and Nature Baby is continuing to work to remain at the leading edge of sustainability with a focus on organics. Their GOTS certification (Global Organic Textile Standard) ensures the cotton is grown and processed without the use of harmful chemicals, leaving nothing on baby’s clothes except pure goodness. The certification also holds the

highest standards or social and environmental responsibility, so that Nature Baby can be sure their workers are treated fairly. The Nature Baby production team visit the factory each year to follow the process and oversee the production first-hand.

Faull has seen a change in the consciousness of the consumer when it comes to how things are made. “There is a growing demand for ethical and sustainable products as customers are wanting the best for baby, the makers, and for our world.” Nature Baby has recently been graded an A- by the annual Ethical Fashion Report, with an A+ in the environmental management category. Participating for the first time and as one of the smallest businesses included in the Report, this is a wonderful result that reflects their commitment to ethical and sustainable practices.

Nature Baby now has three concept stores in Auckland and is sold throughout New Zealand and Australian boutiques and department stores. Nature Baby provides two seasonal drops each year which release in February and August and carry a core line of product that ensure the best offering for your customers. If you would like to learn more about stocking Nature Baby in your store, please visit our website www.naturebaby.co.nz or email wholesale@naturebaby.com

TIBA + MARL Reinventing the wheel, Tiba + Marl set out to redesign the traditional baby changing bag, every parent’s most important accessory. Three years later, their designs are seen on the arms of top celebrities, models, fashion designers alike.

Each bag is meticulously designed to merge high fashion features with practical functionality with easy access zips and co-ordinating water-resistant clutches.

Created for the style savvy parent, the new Tiba + Marl collection boasts cult classics with fashion forward designs.

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Reinventing its original backpack and holdall designs, these Spring/ Summer hero pieces feature a beautiful snakeskin print. The covetable snakeskin design will also be available as a bumbag, ideal for parents on the go. Another highlight in the collection is the introduction of the grey tumble effect fabric, complete with luxe gold hardware. Perfect for trans-seasonal colour palettes, this finish is available in the backpack or holdall shape. The Kaspar Knapsack has also seen a seasonal overhaul in an on-trend striking neon yellow, alongside its matching mini backpack for your little budding fashionista who likes to stand out from the crowd.

For more information visit www.tibaandmarl.com.

INSPIRED BY NATURE Inspired by Scandinavian design and a passion for childrenswear, founders Peter and Charlotte Galsgaard believed they could make high-quality collections for children at affordable prices for parents using the best possible fabrics. In 2002, they started WHEAT in their garage. Drawing on nature and the simplicity and rawness in Denmark, the name WHEAT came about after the Galsgaard’s passed a wheat field as it perfectly describes and combines the elegant design of the plant but also how powerful it is in supplying millions with a source of food.

WHEAT is a Danish designed childrenswear brand that incorporates pale musky colours, and liberty prints that are hand drawn by founder Charlotte who is also the lead designer. Eighty to eighty-five percent of the collection is made using organic cotton and feature Scandinavian nature and simple designs. “The most important thing when it comes to designing our collection is using unique liberty prints with little details,” said Charlotte. “We love the look of simple neutral colours using high quality fabrics that are very soft but also very durable and long-lasting.”

WHEAT is well known for its basicwear with baby bodysuits in organic cotton as well as its thermojackets. The collection also includes a wide and beautiful Disney and Marvel design line for every season. Sizing ranges from newborn to 14 years but the most popular range being from one month to 10 years.

“I love to inspire parents in their choice of childrenswear and to bring Danish quality products to children all over the world.”

In 2018, the brand attended the Kids in Style trade fair, and since then they have expanded the brand significantly and gained a large number of followers and fans. “More and more people are inspired by our story and our designs, gaining this audience and loyalty has been our biggest achievement and our most valued one.”

Currently WHEAT has 33 wholesale accounts across Australia and New Zealand and is rapidly growing with the goal to enter into more boutiques and department stores in the coming years alongside developing their e-commerce site further.

The childrenswear market is very competitive and brands need to bring to the table a special offering, and WHEAT have designs and styles that are affordable with quality that customers can trust.

“When our customers try WHEAT for the first time they simply love it and come back again and again knowing it’s a brand they can trust.”

“We would love the opportunity to be stocked in more stores in New Zealand and to share our beautiful, high-quality childrenswear collections with a wider audience.”

If you would like to stock WHEAT please contact info@wheatdownunder.com.

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Scaling your buying team?

Here are the top questions to ask candidates

If you are a retailer looking to scale your business, hiring a good fashion buyers is vital to the success of your margins.

Clearly a good way to gauge this is from their experience and background, but you can also test this by asking some situational questions in the interview—i.e. ‘Tell us about a time when you resolved a big critical path drama?’

Next, your ideal candidate is someone who will be able (and happy) to be agile within their role: steer away from someone unwilling to dip their hands

in different departments, take on tasks outside of their day-to-day and build on criticism. Egos are not welcome here. Instead, seek out someone who is excellent at organization and cross-functional working with an agile mindset.

A SWOT analysis task is a good way to judge this: in your second round of interviews ask your candidate to pitch their insights and ideas after a trip into one

of your stores, or otherwise, a competitor’s store. This will show how good your candidate’s ideation and presentation skills are. Otherwise, you can ask them to produce a trend presentation, selling their reasons to stock a trend they predict will be huge in six months.

A candidate that is up-to-date on the state of the market, quoting topical themes like sustainability or body diversity in these tasks, should get extra points.

Five interview questions to ask, and the answers to look out for: HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE OUR CUSTOMER IN FIVE WORDS?

TELL US ABOUT A TIME WHEN YOU WERE FACED WITH A CRITICAL PATH PROBLEM AND HOW YOU RESOLVED IT?

This is a fun question designed to test the candidate’s understanding of your business. Their answers should show they’ve immersed themselves in your brand when researching—through your social channels, newsletters, in-store and online. These five words should be similar to the ones you’d use on your company press pack.

IN YOUR OPINION, WHICH FASHION RETAILER IS KILLING IT RIGHT NOW AND WHY? This answer should echo your own feelings about a competitor that is doing brilliantly, focusing on their ranges, interaction with trends and price point, and less on subjective themes such as website functionality.

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WHO ARE OUR MAIN COMPETITORS? Here, your candidate should accurately list competitors in the same space as you, in terms of size, success and customerbase. You’re looking for someone who’s done their research on your brand ahead of the interview. This shows that they are genuinely interested in the job, and were thorough in taking the time to prep for the interview. It’s also a good benchmark to see if they have a good understanding of where your brand sits within the market

This question should see your candidate demonstrate a good trouble-shooting head by relaying a time they’ve been faced with an issue with their critical path. Their answer should involve a cool-headed, intelligent and/or outside-the-box reaction to a problem. This also is a chance for them to talk about a time where they took ownership of the problem.

TELL US ONE THING WE COULD IMPROVE ON AS A BUSINESS AND HOW? For this answer, your candidate should honestly and thoughtfully detail an area of your business that could be improved without fear of insulting you.

fashionable films

Marvel’s X-Men is preparing to take over Hollywood once again, as Dark Phoenix sees the return of one the comics’ most popular heroes Jean Grey. Daniel Orlandi has been enlisted as the costume designer for the film, after working with the franchise on their previous instalment, Logan.

This film presented the opportunity to refresh the X-Men’s previous costumes from movies gone by.

Earlier depictions of the X-Men’s costumes were far from the original comic-book versions. Previously, the heroes appeared in more muted apparel with a leather-biker vibe. The move was made as an attempt to modernise and make ‘cooler’ the original bright spandex uniforms. However, as proved by the raving success of the Avengers franchise, audiences are not afraid of a little bit of cheesiness. Thus, Orlandi has taken his latest role as an opportunity to bring

Men in Black: International One of the most popular film franchises of the 2000s has been picked up for a reboot with June seeing the return of the men in black with the newest addition to the series, Men In Black: International. The film’s costume designer, Penny Rose, had the task of reinventing the classic Men In Black outfits for this more modern audience and diverse cast.

Perhaps the most memorable element of the Men In Black franchise is the sleek and stylish suits the galaxy-travelling agents wore as they attempted to fight intergalactic crime. The new film has embraced the series’ popular past by keeping the suits an essential costume item for the characters. The suits were designed by Paul Smith, who runs an eponymous menswear business and is known for his excellent tailoring. The most significant costuming difference for the new film is the casting of Tessa Thompson as Agent M, prompting the need to create a female equivalent of these chic suits. Smith had experience in both men’s and women’s tailoring, making him

the perfect collaborator for the project. “From the moment I met with Paul I knew it was going to be a very advantageous arrangement for us all,” shared Rose in a statement promoting the new film.

The suits have been adjusted slightly from the original 2000s designs, having been made, slimmer and more closely tailored to the individual actor. The outfits were made from a versatile ‘travel cloth’, which Rose shared was the perfect meeting of style and functionality. “For all the stunts and the carrying on, it was ideal.” The slightly stretchy material made stunt work easier for the actors without compromising on the desired sleek aesthetic.

Together, Rose and Smith created a series of sleek suits for both the male and female actors which encompassed the franchise’s signature swagger with modern elevation. “The suits look great, and now that filming is over, I look back with great affection on this collaboration. This will be the most sartorially elegant Men in Black ever.”

Ophelia Director Claire McCarthy presents this fascinating reimagining of one of William Shakespeare’s most well-known tragedies from the perspective of a seemingly innocent character. Hamlet was perhaps the playwright’s most beloved, and frustrating works, and this film presents the harrowing events from the indecisive hero’s lover Ophelia’s point of view.

Costume designer Massimo Cantini Parrini was tasked with creating costumes that were in keeping with the Elizabethan period of the drama, while also telling a specific story about each character.

The styling of the leading lady Ophelia, played by Daisy Ridley, conveyed the character’s naivety and youthfulness. The character has long and wavy hair, the length of which signals both her higher status and youthfulness according to the era of the picture, and her clothing had a similar effect. As Ophelia is born into a position of power, a niece of the would be king, her garments are very luxurious. Silks nigh gowns, embroided bodices and oversized sleeves are all staples

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for this character. Parrini sourced his materials from across the world, from India to Italy, and the designs took inspiration from a range of cultures, in addition to the original source material. The result was a bold and beautiful fashion presentation that was irreverent of the period but not without its own unique flair.

Being an Elizabethan drama, costumes help to orient the audience in a time they have no real relation to, but in this instance also helped the actors by delving further into their characters. “It helped us engage, get into character very quickly,” shared Daisy Ridley in a promotional interview. The costumes were heavy, with thick layers, in keeping with the period.

This would become both overwhelming for the actors and a tool to understand the lives of these characters, the meaning behind their movements. As much as costumes drive the audience’s understanding of a role, for this film, they were also driving the actor’s understanding.

viewers face-to-face with some nostalgic comic book costumes. The new uniforms are tight spandex and come in a bright blue with a yellow X across each member’s chest. The costumes are the franchise’s most faithful depiction of the comic characters appearances thus far for the X-Men series. The film’s director, Simon Kinberg, released a statement expressing his excitement to embrace the source material for this film, both in terms of the plot and costume design. “I was excited finally as the director to have more of a say and clothe them in their classic costumes,” he shared.

While the depiction is loyal to the source material, the director also stated that the costumes do not lack some original flair. “I worked with our costume designer, to create something that was incredibly loyal to the comics and then also had a little bit of its own feel.”

Is the traditional department store really doomed?

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Despite the alarming news of department store locations shutting up shop, 85 percent of UK adults agreed they still prefer to buy products in store.

While traditional department stores may have been late to the digital party, the picture is not bleak at all.

Some retailers are now taking innovative strides to move with the times… so there is hope for the future!

In this report, we use our software to dive deep into US and UK department stores’ online strategies.

But before we bust out the juicy data points, how are these retail giants evolving to continue winning over customers?

THE STORE OF THE FUTURE While we aren’t talking robots for sales associates yet (although retailers are predicted to spend $7.3 bn on AI by 2022), technology will play an important role in the future performance of traditional department stores. And so will humans. The businesses that stay relevant are those understanding the importance of bridging unique and personalised shopping experiences with digital conveniences. 53 percent of millennials don’t think store associates have the technology they need to provide great customer service, such as mobile devices for looking up customer profiles and recommending products. But new technologies are helping retailers turn the tide.

Neiman Marcus is merging the digital and the physical experience with the majority of in store sales coming via the app SalesFloor. This lets 275 sales associates across the country digitally build tailored mood boards for customers to shop. The company has also launched a digital stylist service where customers can FaceTime a consultant, as well as SocialShop, a feature for Neiman Marcus staff to share Instagram posts with their customers, who can then buy the product online and tag the associate.

The competitive edge that bricks and mortar has over online shopping is it's ability to delight customers with an immersive experience. By investing in experiential retail, British department store Harrods’ reported a boost in sales by 6.8 percent. In 2018, Selfridges and Liberty also recorded increases of 11.5 percent and 8.1 percent respectively.

Selfridges’ The Corner Shop is a well-executed example of how to dovetail the growing experience economy in store. The 2017 pop up featured luxury labels, and an immersive art campaign, State of the Arts, which briefly turned the retailer into a public art gallery.

THE DISRUPTION OF INSTAGRAM Social media is not only influencing what we wear but how we shop. In the same time it takes to like an Instagram post, we can buy a whole outfit (almost) as fast. The new Checkout feature lets users instantly shop Products from the platform. That’s seamless retail at its finest. It’s now crucial for businesses to create engaging content on social media to generate revenue.

But are department stores on board? Our data revealed that selected shoppable products on Nordstrom’s Instagram sold through the majority of SKUs in less than two weeks after posting. These insights can help marketing teams determine if a competitor’s post was successful in driving sales for the advertised styles, shaping upcoming product selection and content for future social campaigns.

customer. They are a continued focus for department store strategies and generate a higher margin than branded product.

While House of Fraser is moving away from private labels altogether, Bloomingdale’s has increased new product under womenswear private brand, AQUA, by 93 percent YoY. Last year, when John Lewis went through a rebrand adding “& Partners” to its name, it launched its largest ownbrand label to date in the process.

While private labels are helpful in this space, are they successful? Own brands currently make up 10 percent of products retailing at JL&P, compared to 9 percent for the same period last year. While it may seem small, this increased after the rebrand paid off.

Recent reports state JL&P saw a 10 percent YoY increase in sales over the Easter period with the help of sales from own brands, Kin and Modern Rarity increasing 23 percent and 22 percent respectively.

As customers have become more fickle with their loyalty to brands, department stores need to keep evaluating the mix of branded and private labels to ensure Customer's needs are met. And private labels need to continue to evolve to be competitive.

When we look at pricing, 50 percent of JL&P’s own brand outerwear sits between £100 and £150, higher than Debenhams who are pricing 60 percent of its own brand outerwear under £100. Puffy gilets are sitting at the lowest interval, priced higher at John Lewis due to technical fabrications, while suiting is at the exit price points.

Brands looking to launch private labels need quick visibility of the price points being operated in by competitors and how they evolve over time.

We know you don’t have time to trawl through thousands of products online, trying to spot a gap in the market.

THE POWER OF PRIVATE LABELS While not as compelling as an immersive art gallery, the humble private label continues to command attention. Private labels give retailers greater control over discounts and create exclusivity for the

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