Apparel Magazine | June 2020

$ 10.95

JUNE 2020 I VOL 53 I NO 6

@ravenandrose

www.ravenandroselingerie.com

#InSeason

Fashion Calendar Dates What you need to know: • Deliver Summer drops a month later than normal. • Encourage retailers to delay going into full Winter sale by a month to regain the month of retailing that has been lost. Spreading their Winter stock out to accommodate this change. • Indenting all Autumn/Winter 2021 collections a month later to permanently reset this season. Meaning for our two-seasoned country, March is Winter delivery and deli September is Summer delivery.

For more information, email caitlan@reviewmags.com or call 09 304 0142 ext 706.

editor ' s note

DO YOU MEASURE UP? Recently I have come across a lot of online brands and designers who don't have a size chart. The irony of this is these exact same brands have very strict return policies. In a Covid-19 riddled world, where consumers are stuck at home – you need to have as few barriers to doing business as possible. The importance of a sizing chart shouldn't be undervalued, it's a no brainer, yet here I am explaining once again that YOU NEED A SIZING CHART! I'm not talking about a confusing Size 8 = Medium, I mean measured sizes in cm/inches (for those trading offshore please take into consideration that we are not all metric) with international flow charts. Slap on a pie chart while you are there. Go to your closest competitor's website. Now try and buy something, all the way through checkout too. What did their experience have, that your website doesn’t? What do you have that they don’t? Was the description of the garment extensive? Or did it leave a little too much to the imagination? What fabric is it made of, where was it made, how do I wash it or is it dry clean only? Know

CHAIRMAN

PUBLISHER ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE CONTENT MANAGERS GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM

your business, but also know what the standard is across your competitors as well. Survey your customers and take their advice, don’t just survey and file it – take action.

While we are on the topic of sizing... I know I don't have my 18-year-old body anymore, but recently I've fluctuated between sizes 6-12 with New Zealand brands. What is going on? Can we stick to one system people? Please don't get smart with a Size 1 or A system. Stick to actual internationally recognised sizing charts, keep the basics, don't confuse your customers, and don’t build in barriers to doing business on your website. Keep it simple, make sure it is clearly understood and make sure that you are not giving the customer a reason to abandon their cart. Make your website easy to use, consumer friendly and as easy to go backwards in the site as forwards – I may have forgotten something and if you don’t give me a chance to go back and look it is your loss and I may well abandon the whole thing if what I have already put in the cart is deleted.

Peter Mitchell Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Janet Guan - janet@reviewmags.com Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento Debby Wei

4 I June 2020

ISSN 1171-2287

Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand +64 9 304 0142 Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2020 NZ Apparel Magazine.

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fast five

HIGHLY ANTICIPATED RETAIL PRECINCT OPENS DOORS Commercial Bay was officially open to the public by Scott Pritchard, CEO of Precinct Properties, Jacinda Ardern, Prime Minister of New Zealand, Phil Goff, Mayor of Auckland, Phil Twyford, Minister of Economic Development and Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei.

Commercial Bay offers more than 120 retailers across fashion, food and beverage, beauty and specialty retail, bringing Aucklander's the best local and international brands.

“We set out with a clear vision to create a world-class waterfront destination on par with other

gateway cities and we are proud to have achieved this, thanks to the commitment of our team and project partners," said Scott Pritchard.

“We are incredibly proud to support our local businesses as well as first-tomarket retailers as they open after a challenging few months. During this crucial time as New Zealand moves to restart its economy after lockdown, I encourage people to support these retailers and food operators.”

The vibrant open-air laneway-based retail environment, designed by Warren and Mahoney in association with NH Architecture and built by Fletcher

Construction, has been created as an extension of the city and pays homage to its rich history; combining modern, airy architectural spaces with elements of the city’s historic design.

Precinct Properties worked closely with mana whenua groups Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei, Ngāi Tai ki Tāmaki, Ngāti Te Ata Waiohua, and Ngāti Pāoa, who were integral in the naming and design of Commercial Bay’s laneways and artworks.

Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei gifted Commercial Bay’s Civic Steps – the

precinct’s primary entrance and a key gathering and meeting space – with its name of Te Reo Pōwhiri, which reflects the importance of the traditional process of tikanga Māori, and links to the open and hospitable nature of Māori and New Zealand culture.

“It has been crucial for us to understand and honour the past, working with iwi and our designers, Warren and Mahoney, to reinstate Commercial Bay as the centre of activity, trade and commerce in the city.”

DEADLY PONIES’ NEW INITIATIVE TO ACHIEVE ZERO-WASTE GOAL Deadly Ponies has set out a new project in a bid to achieve their zero-waste goal. With circularity at the forefront of this new initiative, it will align with the brand’s ethos of ethical and sustainable boutique manufacturing, the brand proudly presents its first-ever recycle programme.

“The first step is for customers to recycle their pre-loved bags as part of our amnesty programme and be rewarded with a $50 voucher. We then deconstruct it, before rebuilding the pieces into a new creation that can be

6 I June 2020

loved again and again. We’re not taking it back to send to landfill, we’re repurposing that product and reinventing it into something completely new,” said CEO, Steve Boyd.

Repurposing materials has always been intertwined with the brand’s collections, however, being able to do so on a larger scale has been a long time coming for the company’s directors.

Using quality, ethically-sourced, and low-emission materials throughout their collections means that the components

that are sent back to the team can form beautiful recycled products. Deadly Ponies’ solidbrass, for example, can be melted down again and again without compromising its composition.

Products that are usable, but not recyclable, will be donated to the programme’s charity partner, Dress for Success NZ, along with 10 percent of sales from the recycle collection.

A FAREWELL FROM INGRID STARNES It’s been a tough couple of months for small businesses in New Zealand, with the economy almost completely shut off during Level 4 Lockdown.

Although we are incredibly proud of New Zealand as a nation for fighting the battle of COVID-19 and getting to Level 1, many businesses are still feeling the impacts of the pandemic.

Well-loved New Zealand label, Ingrid Starnes, has announced through a heartfelt social media post stating that they will now begin the process of shutting down all their physical retail stores in the

coming months.

“This was going to be a very exciting year for our team, celebrating ten years in the industry and with a beautiful new store opening. However, we were caught at full stretch by Covid-19 and can not responsibly make another season after months of trade being down more than 80 percent and debts accumulating.

Today we announce the winddown of all our retail operations over the next 3 months.

I will be forever grateful for all their [the team’s] hard work, dedication, talent, laughter and friendship and will miss working every day with them dearly.”

NEW LEADERS FOR TOMMY HILFIGER & PVH EUROPE

After 23 years with the Tommy Hilfiger Global and PVH Europe, Chief Executive Officer, Daniel Grieder will be stepping down to pursue other interests.

Martijn Hagman will take Grieder’s place in the company.

Hagman was the Chief Operating Officer at Tommy Hilfiger Global and PVH Europe as well as the Chief Financial Officer for Tommy Hilfiger Global.

Hagman has plenty of experience in overseeing operations, finance, digital business transformation, technology, business development as well as the Tommy Hilfiger Global sustainability program. Hagman has been a vital

member of the Tommy Hilfiger team for 23 years.

“As we are in the midst of this seismic shift in our industry, we find ourselves in a unique position to make a change that I believe will launch us into a new era for the brand. It’s a good feeling to know I can pass my seat to Martijn – he’s been a true friend, trusted confidant and reliable co-pilot on the last 12 years of this journey. There is never a perfect moment to leave an organization you love; the options are to leave too late or too early, and I knew I wanted to make this change while still having the optimism, energy and passion I’ve always held onto in my career,” said Grieder.

WILL THE COVID BABY BOOM PROVE TO BE TRUE? If reports of a COVID-19 baby boom around Christmas time proves to be correct… then this Hawkes Bay company has released their baby range at the most opportune time.

Classic New Zealand Limited is known for their sheepskin products – recently, they had just launched a sold-out collaboration with New Zealand designer, Karen Walker.

“We had been working on our collaboration with Karen Walker for around 18 months and were ready to launch just as the lockdown hit. Karen had been wearing hers at home and posted on social media as we hit level 3, selling out the first supply in 12 hours, and the second consignment inside an hour,” said

Gavin Foulshan, General Manager of Classic NZ. Following their success, Classic NZ has now launched its new Baby by Classic range of sheepskin products as we enter Alert Level 1.

The Baby by Classic range is made from locally sourced and tanned lambskin, hand-finished and packaged in Hawkes Bay. It presents a very traditional, natural, and nurturing product in a new way.

The range includes sheepskin baby rugs made from organic cotton, packaged in cotton duffle bags. Along with this, the range also includes baby footwear range that was actually the inspiration for the Karen Walker x Classic collaboration earlier this year.

Sheepskin has always been known as a material that has nurturing properties for babies by helping them maintain a regular temperature and providing a calm and familiar surrounding which

aids sleep and wellbeing for your little ones.

“Our research with mums across New Zealand, Australia, the UK and US, confirms that mums are keen to use natural products with their baby, but when it came to sheepskin, there was some uncertainty around how and when to use the product. By outlining the clear purpose of the rug, based on wool length and shape, and

then packaging it accordingly, we aim to help mum’s get the most out of their baby rug, whether it is in the cot, on the floor for tummy time or out and about in their buggy.”

Classic New Zealand are optimistic that the Baby by Classic range will also benefit from timing, as Kiwi’s continue to look for local, natural, sustainable products for their babies.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I7

column

Dark stores could be a shining light for apparel stores

By Duncan Potter, CMO at Pricer

"A

lready before Covid-19 many apparel retailers began to close stores, following industry-wide trends where more than 16Â 000 stores where closed in the UK last year, according to Centre for Retail Research. Now with lockdowns, social distancing and economic disarray, consumer behaviour is changing even more swiftly to embrace new delivery models. Recent numbers from Wunderman Thompson Commerce state that 65 percent of consumers plan to use more digital shopping channels going forward.

And while last mile surveys show some retailers are following suit, with buy online/pick up in-store adoption increasing, the apparel industry have been slow to adopt to these changing consumer preferences. Possibly due to many being uncertain on where to being their store transformation. While grocery retailers often have an existing electronic shelf label system in their stores, the very nature of apparel stores,

8 I June 2020

with price tags on individual items on hangers, have given them a different starting point for moving into click & collect.

But there are compelling reasons for apparel retailers to do so despite obstacles, and to do it swiftly. Many apparel retailers have stores in prime locations in cities across the globe, and for many of them long leases now hamper their alternatives. By transforming their existing stores into so called dark stores, they could operate click & collect centres for their own as well as for a variety of other businesses.

As we mentioned apparel stores face specific challenges in doing this transformation. Most lack the electronic shelf labels that are the starting point of an effective dark store with click & collect infrastructure. So the first step for most apparel retailers will be to transform their existing store shelf structure, adding electronic shelf labels with flash functionality to shelfs and hanger stands.

The next step is adopting the shelf label software to manage click & collect rather than replenishment, as you in simple terms do a reverse replenishment when you do click & collect. You also need to add barcode scanners and possibly trolleys for enabling the click & collect process.

Some of the store routines need to be upgraded, with swifter replenishment and restocking frequency, as well as retraining the existing workforce to do effective order picking.

But it will likely be worth the effort.

The apparel industry has some fantastic locations around the globe, many of them now closed or empty. Click & collect offers an opportunity for the apparel industry to adopt to changed consumer preferences and create a delivery model that is in line with demand. Experiences from other parts of the retail industry shows that this need not be particularly challenging and can be very rewarding, possibly leading to a revival of the role of flagship apparel stores."

10 PIECES -COLLECTIONby

Fo r wh o l es a l e e n q u i res : b ra n d @ ta y l o r b o u t i q u e.c o. n z

taylorboutique.co.nz/10-pieces

SUPERETTE, COMMERCIAL BAY.

retail eye

10 I June 2020

It’s been 18 years since Superette opened their first store in New Zealand, and to mark this achievement, their newest store has opened this month at the prestigious retail precinct, Commercial Bay. Rickie Dee, the co-founder of Superette, felt it was right to secure a spot at Commercial Bay. “It felt right from the get-go and was the perfect opportunity to venture into Auckland’s CBD,” said Dee. The design and aesthetics of the precinct was what caught Dee’s eye. It was important for Superette to be in a space that didn’t look like a traditional mall.

The fit-out for Superette’s Commercial Bay store was designed by DesignOffice. DesignOffice was able to use a vast range of different textures and materials, they were vital in bringing this project to life.

When planning the Commercial Bay store, Dee felt like they had to step it up a notch. The store has quite a different look to what their customers are used to, however, it still has Superette’s quintessential style.

The store has neon yellow and sage green as accent hero colours, incorporated with raw concrete, timber and chrome features.

When designing this store, it was crucial that Dee and his team was as involved as possible.

“We always like to go into every project we do with a collaborative approach. We certainly have ideas about what we like and over the past 18 years we’ve

definitely learnt a lot about what does and doesn’t work in a retail space, however, we are always open to new ideas. Over the design process, we’ve been really involved as DesignOffice fleshed out the plans, providing our feedback and input along the way.”

The retail space is ever-changing and evolving.

From the beginning, Superette has always focused on creating amazing experiences with amazing spaces.

“In a world that is forever turning towards digital solutions, amazing face to face experiences is something that we feel so passionately about.

Beautiful flowers, candles and great music are important but only when backed up with incredible service from our in-store teams.”

As you enter the Commercial Bay store, it is the experience that customers are always impressed with.

It was vital for Dee to ensure that the fit-out created a relaxed space where customers feel comfortable to hang out and feel inspired by.

Superette prides themselves on being the one-stopshop with a wide range of categories, designers and products all under one roof.

“Our product and brand mix is constantly evolving and we love the way someone can walk out with a

In a world that is forever turning towards digital solutions, amazing face to face experiences is something that we feel so passionately about. new jacket, a beautiful candle and a birthday present for their brother in one go.�

The COVID-19 situation has been bizarre for the team however it has created not only challenges but opportunities for Superette. “The lockdown meant that construction had to come to a halt and as a result, there has been a delay in opening the store. Now that we are on the other

side, people are excited to explore their own cities again and I think Commercial Bay is a bit of a light at the end of the tunnel.�

Over the years Dee has learnt a lot about what works for both their staff on the shop floor as well as their customers. Their denim walls have become a signature part of their store layouts along with racking systems that can change with the seasons.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 11

in detail

MINA Mina offers ageless and naturally refined styles that are defined by their signature clean lines and soft tailoring, with a hint of self-expression. Mina pieces are made in Auckland for the modern woman.

Mina is dedicated to making conscious and ethical decisions and will continue to keep ‘people’ central to its business model as it grows and evolves.

Currently, Mina is working on their new collection that is due to launch at the end of this year. They are slowly moving away from seasoned collections and looking at the sizes of their offerings. Mina is starting to explore the model of creating smaller drops but more often, as opposed to two large collections that drop on the season.

The first capsule range of their end of year collection will be available instore in December this year. It will be available for wholesale orders in November as Mina attempts to shorten their lead time when they sell a range to retailers. This way, retailers do not need to buy stock so far in advance.

When picking retailers to align with, brand synergy, aesthetic and location are all contributing factors. Community and relationships are also integral for Mina, so finding a retailer that also values relationships is so important.

This new collection is inspired by the new framework of smaller capsules.

“As a designer, the designs become more authentic and thoughtful, they don’t feel forced. Although we have never designed based on trends, inspiration now more than ever is sparking from the idea of ease

and comfort, a kind of lifestyle. Transcending trends and really designed to last, not just a season but years to come,” said Natalie Procter, owner of Mina.

This new collection will consist of four capsules where every collection is evolved from past seasons and is cohesive with each other.

Mina will continue to repeat previous styles in their new collections despite the rapid speed in which fashion trends are accelerating in.

“Why change something that customers love and continue to sell so well? We want to be the brand that’s reliable in fit and size. If a customer buys a pair of pants one season we want them to be able to come back the next season and the sizing hasn't changed. We make small changes to our pant styles whether that be a style of pocket, a change of button, a different fabric, but essentially we don’t play around with a silhouette if customers are happy.”

By doing this Mina has created a range of core styles where all year round these styles will be available online They are pieces that help to build a core trans-seasonal wardrobe that can be seamlessly mixed and matched with new and future Mina pieces.

The impacts of COVID-19 has forced Procter and many other New Zealand designers to think about how they can improve the way they serve their customers as they enter the world post-lockdown.

“For us, as a small business, we are lucky in that we are very agile and can change our path to be a better business both for our customers, our supply chain and the sustainability of the business in the future.”

For more information email sales@minaforher.com.

Although we have never designed based on trends, inspiration now more than ever is sparking from the idea of ease and comfort, a kind of lifestyle.

12 I June 2020

W O T E P CA colour trending

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI Resene Carousel Pink

ZUHAIR MURAD Resene Porter

VALENTINO Resene Soulful

A

s we flutter our way through the year, the cape trend always seems to creep its way back onto the runway and onto the streets. The fashion cape is seen from superheroes to celebrities – so it’s no wonder you feel like you have everything together whenever you pop a cape on.

Capes began as round pieces of cloth that were simply attached to the collar. However, as fashion styles and trends moved forward, they became a lot more complex and demanded excellent tailoring and craftsmanship.

Capes were also seen as a part of military uniform, but now it is worn the most as an outerwear piece that accompanies evening looks. Nonetheless, capes are a powerful piece of clothing that brings an enormous amount of confidence and fierceness to any wearer.

This flowy nude-blush gown in a similar hue

14 I June 2020

HYKE Resene Half Tea

to Resene Soulful, is adorned with most gorgeous half-cape, hitting just below the waist. Pairing this elegant gown with chunky combat-style boots gives the overall look an edgy aesthetic. This is then further emphasised with the heavy eye-liner and bold accessories that the model is styled with. Designer Pierpaolo Piccioli is an emotional designer and through this Fall 2020 collection we see him embrace his passion for inclusivity to the max.

This mysteriously dark look was featured in Karl Lagerfield’s Fall 2020 collection. The dark navy shade, resembling Resene Indian Ink, is almost a black shade with a blue tinge. This cape look gives us a vampiregrunge feel, paired with chilling silver accessories and leather gloves – it gives us a fairy-tale villain flair.

However, due to its clean and simple colour palette, this piece is wearable and easily transferred from the

runway to the street.

This particular Agnès b’s look was one of many of their ready-to-wear Fall collection for 2020. Nestled in a collection consisting of red plaid and bright watercolour patterns, this all-black cape look, in a shade similar to Resene Charcoal, instantly draws our attention. Although, black is a colour that doesn’t necessarily scream “look at me”, the cape silhouette, tells a different story. This cape is paired with metallicstyle shorts, however, the look overall still leans more towards the sleek monochromatic style.

This look by Hyke is definitely one of our favourites we’ve seen of the overall cape trend. In a modern colourway and pattern, the cut of the cape drapes nicely all the way down to the calves. Echoing every strut, this piece shows an immense amount of flow and movement. There is no arguing that you’ll feel

WN BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE Resene Quarter Baltic Sea

AGNÈS B. Resene Charcoal

just like a superhero wearing this down the street. In a gorgeous and clean stone colour, like Resene Half Tea, this is the wearable runway piece everyone is looking for. Suddenly, we’ve been transferred into a posh dollhouse. This baby pink look by Giambattista Valli is another one of our favourites. Feminine and flirty, however, this ready-to-wear collection played with both feminine elements matched with edgy, genderfluid aesthetics. This baby-pink cape look, in a tone like Resene Carousel Pink, has two parallel rows of antique-style gold buttons down the front of the cape as well as epaulettes decorated with the same gold buttons. Paired with black loafers and hair accessories, finishing the overall posh aesthetic nicely.

Zuhair Murad’s Fall 2020 collection has an arts and crafts feel with fun colours and bold patterns.

However, this lace dress with an inbuilt cape takes the

KARL LAGERFIELD Resene Indian Ink

GIVENCHY Resene Roadster

little black dress staple to the next level. Embellished with a statement belt that juxtaposes the feminine lace. The darkness of the overall dress, in a hue like Resene Porter, makes this look both edgy and elegant at the same time. In-built capes are definitely one way to style the cape trend, and Murad does an excellent job with this look.

This next look by Beautiful People is definitely interesting. Although the grey denim is not something we’ve never seen before, the way the cape and the overall look is styled with bright orange garden gloves and boots that resemble an equestrian style boot are interesting styling elements that we should not look over too quickly. This entire Fall 2020 collection is inspired by architecture. Designer Hidenori Kumakiri looked at the different layers that may lie between the walls of a building. The mysterious layers are

translated in the mysterious styling choices Kumakiri creates for his looks. Nonetheless, the oversized cape in a tone like Resene Quarter Baltic Sea, demands attention.

This fiery look by Givenchy is fulfilling all the aspects needed for the perfect cape. In a spicy colourway similar to Resene Roadster, this bright red look is hard to miss. Designer Clare Waight Keller had French New Wave film posters and midcentury designs on her mood board when creating this Fall 2020 collection. The collection played with the restricted colour palette of black, white and red, however, Keller used an array of patterns and silhouettes that gave a feminine touch to each look. Glamorous, powerful and feminine, and words we’d use to describe this collection, and this look in particular definitely ticks all the boxes.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 15

beauty

BUILDING AN EMPIRE WITH IMA ASALI In an industry that is incredibly saturated right now, we spoke with Ima Asali, the founding director of Mellow Cosmetics, to gain some insight on her entrepreneurial journey in the makeup industry - how she lives her life by having a full-time hobby.

I

You just need the drive and the motivation to start and to keep going.

16 I June 2020

n an industry that is incredibly saturated right now, we spoke with Ima Asali, the founding director of Mellow Cosmetics, to gain some insight on her entrepreneurial journey in the makeup industry - how she lives her life by having a full-time hobby.

Asali is originally from Iran. She migrated with her family to New Zealand when she was just 11 years old.

Starting school in Kohimarama Auckland - surrounded by strangers and a world she knew nothing about.

With her English not being the best, it was a difficult time for Asali, however, in a short six months, the language barrier was no longer a problem, her friends and family who was by her side every step of the way made her felt at home. Now, living in Brisbane, Australia, Auckland is still home for Asali.

Mellow Cosmetics began in June 2014, and it was the best decision Asali has ever made.

Asali had her son in November 2013 and was due to return back to her corporate job mid-2014.

During her maternity leave, she enjoyed spending time with her newborn son and watching him reach his milestones.

"I was thinking about staying home for longer and working for myself, I just didn't know how."

One YouTube makeup tutorial video later, everything clicked. Asali thought, "hang on, I can start my own makeup brand", and the rest was history. Asali took the plunge and quit her full-time job to pursue her new project: Mellow Cosmetics.

Starting her brand back in 2014 meant the beauty/ makeup industry wasn't as saturated as it is now. It allowed Mellow Cosmetics to fine-tune their brand without being severely overshadowed by household names. At the time there were an array of indie makeup brands that were emerging into the scene at the same time - however, this meant everyone was more or less on the same playing field. But, the catch was to stay relevant and for a prolonged period of time, something Mellow Cosmetics has worked hard on since the beginning.

This isn't to say starting Mellow Cosmetics was an easy task. Starting any company from scratch takes a lot of willpower. Asali followed her "inner calling".

"It wasn’t easy at the beginning, it’s still not easy to this date, I put a lot of hard work into it, I worked many nights and long hours."

Mellow Cosmetics is cruelty-free, vegan, parabenfree. Moreover, its affordable prices coupled with high-quality formulas and packaging, makes Mellow Cosmetics stand out against the crowd. The feedback Asali got was encouraging and the general word of mouth around Mellow Cosmetics helped increase sales in the early stages.

The first year was definitely a huge challenge for Asali, she had no experience in the beauty industry

except for her love of makeup.

It's important to believe in your project and to believe in yourself. Asali took it upon herself to upskill by taking an online master class in marketing and followed every step they recommended.

Doing a master class helped the success of Mellow.

Asali then began advertising online and freshened up her website. Before she knew it, she was flooded with orders she wasn’t sure how to keep up with.

Farmers is New Zealand's most well-known department store. Being able to introduce Mellow Cosmetics to Farmers meant everything to Asali.

"When the Newmarket store displayed over 74 SKU's for Mellow, it was a 'pinch me' moment for sure. I started the range with three products and to achieve so much in the past six years has made it all worth the hard work."

When starting a new project, job, anything - your level of experience is always graded by your employer, your peers and others in your industry. For Asali, she had been working in the beauty industry prior to Mellow, however, she did not have so-called 'industry knowledge'.

"You just need the drive and the motivation to start and to keep going. You would of course then need to educate yourself along the way and hire people that know more than you so they can help with the growth of your business."

Having a positive mindset makes all the difference.

One of the main obstacles when starting Mellow Cosmetics, was when Asali first approached influencers to work with. Many of them declined as the brand was 'too new' and those influencers did not believe her brand would last.

It is important to not take these 'setbacks' to heart.

These obstacles will always be there no matter how great your product is. A few years later, Asali now works with some of the top influencers in the game.

Good things take time.

When evaluating a single beauty product, it needs to have it all. According to Asali, high-quality formulas are vital. The packaging, on the other hand, did not seem as important when she first started, however, now, she understands that it is of high importance to consumers.

“Great formulas in beautiful luxurious packaging... everything has to be Instagram worthy.”

Asali loves using products that are versatile and multipurpose. A two-for-one, if you will. It’s about making the most of what you have.

Mellow Cosmetics’ liquid lip paints and lipsticks are a great example of this. The formula is creamy and gentle, they can be used as a lip colour, a blush and on the eyes as eyeshadow.

They are perfect for creating a monochromatic look which is super trendy right now.

CRUELTY FREE

VEGAN

PARABEN FREE

www.mellowcosmetics.com

How Your Skin Might Be Affecting Your Immunity

"W

hen most of us think of our immunity, we think of what’s happening inside our bodies, the vast system that protects us from outside diseases. However, it is likely that you haven’t given much thought to how our bodies’ largest organ, our skin, might be affecting your immunity.

A recent discovery made by renowned cosmetic chemist and founder of Biologi, Ross Macdougald, found that our body immune system moves free radicals to our skin where they are expelled through the pores.

So what does that really mean for our immune systems?

It means that whatever products we are applying to our skin could potentially inhibit these free radicals from evading our pores, thus, keeping them inside our system. To understand the danger of this, we firstly need to understand free radicals.

Free radicals are toxic by-products of oxygen

18 I June 2020

metabolism (breathing). As humans, we are constantly creating free radicals, so we also need an abundant supply of antioxidants to counteract their damage.

That’s where plant nutrients, or phyto-nutrients come in because they are rich in antioxidants. The reason antioxidants are vital for our immune system is because they scavenge free radicals - which are the cause of inflammation in our bodies.

What many people don’t realise is most disease is a direct result of inflammation (thus removing inflammation is of high priority). However, for a nutrient to be active and work effectively in the skin it needs to be unstable. Antioxidants by nature are unstable molecules which allows them to absorb the free radical and once this reaction occurs the molecule is stable and unreactive and is excreted by the body.

The introduction of skincare products with emulsifiers, waxes, petroleum-based ingredients such as silicones and glycols and many other synthetic chemicals have caused this system to fail. The result is auto-immunity system breakdown, or in other words,

the creation of skin sensitivity or skin sensitization, such as eczema, psoriasis, and other skin related disorders (including pigmentation and de-pigmentation). Not only are we suffocating our skin we are also creating a toxic environment.

To counteract the damage that occlusive suffocating ingredients in skincare products have caused, we need to introduce products that allow the skin to breathe and function into their routine.

That’s where Biologi comes in. Known for their 100 percent active plant extracts, Biologi’s single ingredient serums are clean cosmeceutical skincare products that deliver nutrients through Phyto nutrient Protection (PNP) liquid matrix.

Biologi quickly delivers antioxidant nutrients along with other critical nutrients to the skin to fight off any toxicity. Biologi are the only skincare brand in the world that has the ability to do this, thanks to its proprietary extraction method that delivers their serums to work in the bottle, just as they do in the plant.

For more information visit www.biologi.com.au."

PAULA’S CHOICE Paula Begoun, the mastermind behind Paula’s Choice did not just join the beauty industry - she changed it.

Prior to creating her skincare line, she was a consumer struggling with acne and eczema. She was desperate to find products that actually worked instead, she found products that made everything worse. Hence, we see the birth of her life-long career of research and

8+ Minute X-20 is the latest product range from 8+MINUTE. With a focus on personal hygiene, X-20 has launched an antibacterial Sanitising Gel that is 75 percent alcohol-based gel, killing 99.9 percent of the most common bacteria.

The 80ml tube is small in size, lightweight and easy to carry when travelling. A single use keeps your hands clean and hygienic within seconds.

While highly concentrated alcohol-based sanitisers can leave your hands dry and irritated, the X-20 Hand Sanitising Gel looks after your skin with added natural leaf and root extracts.

After applying to your hands, the Ethyl Alcohol evaporates fast, leaving the natural essences to nourish and moisturise the skin. This unique formula leaves your hands feeling refreshed and sanitised.

The X-20 Hand Sanitiser contains: Ethyl Alcohol, Water, Salvia Miltiorrhiza Root Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Leaf Extract, Galla Rhois Extract, Panax Notoginseng Root Extract, Astragalus Complanatus Extract and more. These effective natural ingredients protect your skin as well as help prevent the spread of germs. It’s perfect for the whole family. To stock the X-20 Hand Sanitiser or for more information visit www.jemarose.co.nz.

20 I June 2020

formulating effective skincare products.

Begoun is passionate about uncovering the ‘truth’, thus, Paula’s Choice has established one of the most robust science-based foundations in the industry to take the guesswork out of skincare.

Beauty begins with the truth and Paula’s Choice stands by their philosophy; Smart, Safe Beauty.

Using only the best natural and synthetic ingredients available to address the skin care needs of all ages, skin types and concerns. You will never find ingredients that have been proved, by research, to be irritating, drying, or likely to worsen skin problems.

For more information visit www.paulaschoice.com.au.

DYSON Dyson is famous for their vacuums but they are slowly but surely taking over the beauty scene with their innovative hair styling tools.

After seven years of development, Dyson has launched the first and only straightener with flexing plate technology which delivers an enhanced style while putting less damage on your hair.

It is the only hair straightener with flexing plates.

The Dyson Corrale straightener features pioneering micro hinged plate technology, which flex to shape and gather hair, applying even heat and tension to all the hair strands in every pass and keeping them perfectly aligned, reducing the reliance on heat.

"With conventional hair straighteners, hair tends to slip out from the plates as you're passing the styler through, forcing

you to go over the same section of hair multiple times," said Micheal Bell, Dyson Styling Ambassador.

"With the Dyson Corrale straightener's flexing plates I have more control and love how it gathers the hair to keep it where it needs to be for a more even style with less reliance on heat."

The Dyson Corrale also showcases Dyson's expertise in battery technology as it is completely cord-free just like their Dyson vacuum cleaners. Suitable for all hair types, this unique styling tool also features Dyson’s Intelligent Heat Control for precise temperatures, together with 4-cell lithium-ion battery technology to deliver cord-free performance, allowing users to achieve outstanding style anywhere at any time. For more information visit www.dyson.co.nz.

THREE GEMS Three Gems creates natural skin and body care that's simple and effective for even the most sensitive skin.

Using only natural and organic plant-based oils, Nelson-based Three Gems proves that skincare does not need to be complicated to give great results.

Whether you're looking for a clear and smooth complexion or a deodorant you can be confident in, Three Gems has you sorted.

All the things that are important to you in skincare are taken care of in the Three Gems range: • Deodorant that will keep you dry and odour-free • Skincare that is gentle and effective, even on the most sensitive skin • Natural and organic plant-based ingredients chosen with purpose. There are no water or fillers, just pure goodness • Chemical-free and cruelty-free with great care taken to reduce environmental impact The range has been developed and thoroughly tested by Louise, the founder of Three Gems. Her products were originally created for her own use as she needed something that worked well for her sensitive skin.

Since then Louise has seen a big improvement in skin clarity, fewer signs of wrinkles, and has confidence that she had developed a deodorant that really works.

Simple, effective, and natural skincare that does what it says it will.

For more information visit, www.threegems.co.nz or email louise@threegems.co.nz.

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I 21

emerging designer

Teiria Studios

22 I June 2020

N

ew Zealand emerging designer, Rangimarie Elvin, the mastermind behind Teiria Studios. Teiria Studios has become something more than just a fashion label. It has also been Elvin’s kaupapa (aim/ purpose) to celebrate being Māori and fight for Māori.

Teiria Studios came about during Elvin’s years at AUT, with the Instagram page acting as a dumping ground for all her design work. However, now that she’s graduated, it has become a platform for her to promote her work and sharing her message of decolonising Māori design and celebrating its development into modern-day society.

“In my heart, I am a storyteller. We as Māori have always told our stories through textiles, art and clothing. I thought, if I am able to use my skills in creating, designing and sewing, to help extend the life of our culture and tell our stories, then Teiria Studios would be a perfect platform to do that,” said Elvin.

Teiria is Elvin’s middle name - pronounced “tayree-a”, after her great-grandmother. It translates to “dahlia”, a flower.

“I used this name as it is representative of me and holds the idea of whānaungatanga (family ties) in the forefront of my brand.”

The team at Teiria Studios is small. Elvin is the sole designer whilst also being in charge of marketing, social media and construction. For certain projects, Elvin would outsource individuals or companies to create her garments. For example, her knitwear pieces are accredited to knit technicians, Gordon Fraser and Jyoti Kalynji from the AUT Textile Design Lab as well as assistance from Sharon Evans-Mikellis and Melissa Albom.

“I would love to venture out and get other people involved within my company too, because whether I like it or not, I can’t do it all by myself.”

Elvin hopes to hire creatives or even whānau into the mix to help.

“I’m just lucky that I have major support from my local community and the Māori community to help share my story and brand message out there.

My brand thrives on inclusivity and connectivity, so it wouldn’t work and my message wouldn’t be heard without everyone’s support.”

Being a recent graduate, Elvin is just starting to get into the business side of Teiria Studios. Currently, you can order or enquire straight to their Instagram (@ teiriastudios). So far, Elvin has been creating made to order pieces as well as selling some of her standard

designs at her local markets.

Elvin’s recent graduate collection is called Hei Maumaharatanga, which translates to ‘in memory’.

This collection highlights Māori textiles and culture, with historical military references from the 1860 New Zealand land wars - with particular emphasis on the Battle at Pukehinahina in 1864.

“I have used the idea of learning from kākahu (clothing) to educate ourselves about the raw history of New Zealand.”

This collection originally stemmed from a political point-of-view and frustration. However, it has now developed into a memorial of all the hardships the Māori community has had to endure over time.

“Nostalgic and historical at its core, it is a sort of love-letter to my culture and remembrance for those who came before me, my tupuna (ancestors). We wouldn’t be here without them, they went through all they went through for us and the future of Māori.

Our generation couldn’t even fathom doing half of the things they had to do, so this collection is the start of my many ‘thank yous’ to come.”

The functions and silhouettes of the garments within this collection were all incredibly wellconsidered. However, the highlight of this collection is ultimately the use of various textiles.

“Using heavy-weight fabrics like denim and drill that were hard-wearing are reminiscent of the European military pieces I was referencing, I also wanted to reapproach the way we see traditional Māori textiles and traditional Māori raranga

(weaving).”

Elvin has studied Māori weavers in action and wanted to create a knitwear piece that resembled the way harakeke (flax) was weaved in Māori cloaks, baskets and more.

“This included ‘memory-marking’ the texture and feel of it, and the visual look of it, but not exact replicas. I wanted to take back our craft and values in the face of colonisation, which is where this collection stemmed from.”

Particular pieces like the Waitohu knits are reminiscent of the base of some cloaks, the Taipari knit, named after one of Elvin’s chiefly tupuna (ancestors), is reminiscent of some kete, and the Mcleod/Makarauri knit jumper, incorporates Elvin’s Scottish heritage by reworking the Mcleod tartan to create a textile that faintly resembles a unique korowai cloak.

Within this collection, Elvin has put immense thought into the finer details. For example, the stitching method she uses is called ‘koru stitching’ - this has been incorporated into the seams and construction of the garments.

“Normally in Māoriinspired clothing, the use of koru pattern is typically on the forefront of a garment, which can be beautiful, but I have decided to take a different approach, and make subtle but considered references of the well-known koru pattern.”

“I hope that through my fashion, people will be inspired to learn more about the stories behind the clothing and learn more about Māori culture.”

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I 23

in detail

The Knitter is a local New Zealand handmade knitwear label. Due to the handmade nature of their garments, The Knitter does not usually come out with ‘seasons’ or ‘collections’. They bring out new colours, patterns and cuts when they feel the timing is right.

They will be introducing some new knits from July onwards and their knits will be available for wholesale in June.

“We love working with boutiques and buyers/ stores who are kind and easy to work with. People that we can develop human connections with and who understand that producing hand knits is not an instant process. We don’t belong to the current ‘instant’ model, so working with us also requires patience,” said Nicole Leybourne, founder of The Knitter.

The process of creating a hand knit is very handson and fun. It begins with dying wools to specific colourways and then working to see which colours and shades work well together. The Knitter is known for their playful, colourful and fun knits, so with every design they release, it is vital that the colour and shapes they choose reflect this.

The Knitter works with a variety of yarns including Merino, Peruvian Highland Wool, Alpaca and New Zealand Mohair. This means their jumpers are made from all-natural fibres making it incredibly soft and comfy to wear. All their dyes are Oeko Tex and REACH certified.

The Knitter has been using the same styles with different designs and alterations for each drop.

“We don’t believe in just creating something for one season and having to continually bring out something new just to keep up with the fashion calendar.”

For more information or to make an order, email hello@theknitter.co.

24 I June 2020

edited

The playbook of trading in a recession

Find out what the 5 key strategies to adopt during the upcoming global recession.

According to SearchNode, 41% of e-Commerce businesses have done nothing to prepare for an economic crisis, while 17% don’t know whether their companies had made preparations.

As more countries trickle into the global recession, it is paramount to have an action plan in place and be transparent with your team. Read on for five key insights from 2008’s MVPs to help shape your strategy and harness the power of data to trade during a challenging new retail era.

NAIL FUTURE ASSORTMENTS The challenge: The wrong investment or deadstock can severely impact a retailer or brand’s ability to trade during a global recession and lead to unnecessary markdowns.

The solution:

Optimizing your assortment is more important than ever. To survive the recession, retailers need to play to their strengths to keep consumers invested. Analyzing wider market trends helps understand where there is room for growth and where to pull back so you can make adjustments accordingly. For example, comparing products stocked over the past month vs. what sold out reveals tops as the best-performing category in the US and China. It makes up 40% of sell outs compared to 31% of stocked items in the US and 32% of sell outs vs. 28% of stocked categories in China.

On the flip side, both regions over-indexed in dress investments, which only equaled 5% of sell outs vs. 8% of products in stock for the US and 3% of sell outs vs.

7% of available items in China. This suggests retailers operating in these regions could have made tweaks to their assortments. For example, increasing their investment in tops to cater to dressing from the waist up for working and socializing over video and pulling back on dress options or phasing styles for when lockdown measures fully lift.

Monitoring market shifts is important to understanding where there is demand and saturation within product assortments, helping you make smarter investments that will pay off in the future.

Considerations:

26 I June 2020

• See now, buy now: When lockdowns lift, can goods be delivered closer to season to maximize selling time and avoid premature discounts?

• Consider seasonless options: With the disruption of the retail calendar by COVID-19, traditional seasons are becoming more blurred. Brands such as Uniqlo with a strong basics assortment are well-placed to trade as they have a broad offering of evergreen styles.

• Play to your strengths: Avoid trying to be everything to everyone and focus on what your customer values. Update hero products with new fabrics or colorways to minimize the risk and cut out the fitting process.

• Look to post-recession trends: After the last

GFC, excess and branding gave way to minimalism and streetwear saw a rebirth. Ensure trends that have performed well during lockdown, such as loungewear, are updated to remain relevant with the shift in consumer lifestyles.

RECONSIDER PRICING ARCHITECTURE The challenge:

High levels of unemployment post-COVID will see people spending less money on discretionary items, making it tempting to slash prices. Since April, the average price of product selling out across the US and UK has dropped with customers tightening their purse-

strings as the virus took hold.

The solution:

It will be essential to have a strong offering at an accessible price point across all categories now and in the future with consumer confidence still low. However, your overall pricing strategy may need an overhaul.

Tiffany’s cut the average price of its high-end fashion jewelry by 25% in 2008-09 but increased engagement jewelry by 10%. This shift saw net revenues rise and margins stabilize.

Considerations:

• Can you increase the prices on your breadand-butter styles that are more ‘recession-proof ’ to cushion the margin for lower-price, higher-risk investments?

• Though people will have less disposable income, they won’t be looking to drop their standard of living or forgo their favorite products. Could diffusion lines or brand partnerships come into play?

• There is hope that ‘revenge spending’ will help boost the economy. When events restart and customers are looking to treat themselves for an occasion, are there products phased for later that could warrant a higher price point?

BREAK THE DISCOUNTING ADDICTION The challenge:

• Are you offering buy-now-pay-later services?

• In-store, can higher-priced stock be allocated to your flagship locations that receive higher foot traffic?

• Ensure your marketing effectively communicates the value of your higher-priced goods. Draw attention to fabric quality as well as local or artisan goods.

shuttered. Alongside new social distancing measures, creating an unfamiliar shopping environment for customers.

you explored virtual alternatives such as online consultations or 3D fittings?

The challenge:

When the 2008 GFC hit, year-round markdowns became the norm for retailers to encourage spending.

Customers are now trained to wait for promotions and retailers rely more on aggressive discounting to move through inventory.

With so many players in the market, brand loyalty was already hard to come by pre-coronavirus. Now, brands are aggressively competing for consumers’ attention to help them stay afloat. How do you cut through the noise and maintain the loyalty of your current customers as well as attract new ones?

The solution:

Avoid panic discounting and put a clear, strong strategy in place to entice consumers without devaluing your brand. Consider if trend-driven items can be reworked into future assortments or evergreen and essential products can be phased for later delivery.

Considerations:

• Hold off on deep reductions now and retrain your customers not to expect discounts all year round.

• Look to realign discounts with a more traditional end-of-season sale event in July/August and December/January when the season is actually ending.

• Deeper discounts don’t always equal greater sell outs. Avoid sacrificing your margins with tooaggressive markdowns.

• Look to allocating reduced stock to an outlet site to allow new season styles to sell at full price without diluting brand image.

• Use promotions to reward customers in your loyalty programs or those who have supported your business during this time.

• Follow suit from luxury brands running ‘archival sales’ to reduce collections from past seasons and private sales to maintain exclusivity.

• Markdown by categories instead of running blanket offers and consider ‘spend more, save more’ promotions as a way to clear through stock with less damage to margins.

INVEST IN EXPERIENCE & INNOVATION The challenge:

Retailers are currently operating with less employees as COVID-19 forced companies worldwide to cut staff as stores and warehouses

BUILD BRAND LOYALTY

The solution:

The solution: Businesses that make drastic cuts don’t necessarily survive recessions. According to Harvard Business Review, companies that just rely on trimming its workforce have only an 11% likelihood of achieving breakaway performance after a slowdown. Customer service and experience in brick-and-mortar stores and e-Commerce sites will be paramount to help shoppers navigate the new era of retail, so use this time wisely to invest in creative solutions with longterm payoffs.

Considerations:

• Product innovation will continue to flourish even in a recession. Amazon experienced a surge in profits in 2009 mid-GFC, propelled by the success of the Kindle.

• Brands that can offer a more seamless return process will have a better chance of retaining customers in the future. With online returns already a costly pain point, partnering with tech platforms specializing in reverse logistics capabilities is an option to save time and money.

• Think about how you can delight customers in store again, going above making them feels comfortable shopping in modified environments.

• For your online business, focus on creating a seamless user experience to keep sales momentum for customers not yet venturing out.

• Fit is one of the most important factors for purchasing. With changing rooms off-limits, have

A personalized approach is crucial. What can you do for your customer that other retailers can’t? Ensure you know what your customer wants from you. In 2008, Starbucks launched the ‘My Starbucks Idea’ online portal, where customers could create a profile as well as feedback ideas of what they wanted from the product and experience. Implementing these ideas built brand loyalty for Starbucks and repositioned it as a community-centric business – helping it survive the last recession.

Considerations:

• Be transparent as there are a lot of changes to traditional retail operations. Be sure your customer is kept in the loop.

• Social good is more than a trend and 2020 is an essential year for brands to authentically connect with their customers. Retailers that support the causes they care about will be a deciding factor for consumers as to where they place their brand loyalty.

• Again, communicate your value and uphold it.

Heritage luxury brands withstood the 2008 GFC with shoppers investing in well-known and trusted brands.

• Tailor your approach when communicating with different consumer profiles and engage with them on appropriate channels.

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I 27

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