Apparel Magazine // July 2014

$ 9.00

JULY 2014 VOL 47 NO 6

www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

The Rise of Activewear pg 10

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NEWS

IN CONVERSATION WITH

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COLOUR TRENDING

24

22

EDITD

STUDENT PROFILE

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BEHIND THE BUSINESS

16—18 AUGUST 2014 SYDNEY SHOWGROUND

REGISTER NOW AT FASHIONEXPOSED.COM

2 I July 2014

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

“Retail is very hard so Fashion Exposed is so important; the more knowledge you have the more power you have” BETH MCLOUGHLIN, MS DEMEANOUR BOUTIQUE

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FASHIONABLE

EDITOR’S letter SHOPPER marketing, despite only really surfacing into mainstream marketing over the last few years, has developed into a vital move away from short term and sales promotions to drive a more strategic and integrated marketing approach. Geometry Global, the world’s largest activation network born out of the merger between G2, OgilvyAction and JWTAction and part of WPP, held a breakfast workshop highlighting numbers and facts surrounding the strategy that is shopper marketing.

Following and understanding your path to purchase is a key objective for retailers by firstly selling to the shopper not the consumer.

Consumers use, shoppers buy. Director of strategy and retail and shopper practice leader, Jonathan Dodd believes that shopper marketing complements the ‘passive’ awareness and preference building the role of consumer marketing by focusing on the ‘active’ purchase decision making process of the shopper.

“Important questions to ask are; do you understand the barriers to purchase for your brand and category and how they may have changed as a result of economic pressures?

Are shopppers’ trips and missions changing in a way that will affect your brand? Are your shoppers shopping different channels in different ways?” explained Dodd.

With the age-old question in everyone’s mind, is online beating traditional bricks and mortar retailing? The answer to this is somewhat ambiguous in not being an either or scenario, but rather, how can my online store help my bricks and mortar store?

It has been researched that the digital medium will influence $1.1 trillion of offline retail sales or 50 percent of total sales. Bricks and mortar continues to win out with 51 percent of shoppers researching online before buying in-store, where only 17 percent visit a store or ‘showroom’ before purchasing online.

Connecting through digital platforms throughout the journey of the shopper is important to retailing and digital is playing a vital part in keeping bricks and mortar afloat.

Want to keep informed about the industry between issues? Sign up for our weekly newsletter and visit our website to find industry profiles, news and articles as they happen.

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

READS

Dior: The Legendary Images: Great Photographers and Dior

By Florence Muller This stunning collection of Dior fashion photography is legendary, as the name suggests. With sweeping images of couture in large settings, this book takes the viewer beyond the exhibition at the Musée Christian Dior in Granville, France, which this book is published to accompany.

contributors

JESSICA-BELLE GREER Sales & Editorial

ANYA ANDERSON Managing Director RedSeed Ltd Christchurch www.redseed.me

PUBLISHER EDITOR SALES & MARKETING SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DESIGNER DESIGNER

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THOMAS FOWLER

CAITLAN MITCHELL

Editorial Assistant

Photograher

CATHERINE TAOUK

Managing Director of Strategists, First Retail Group www.firstretailgroup.com

Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Jessica-Belle Greer - jessica@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com Maddi Duthie - maddie@reviewmags.com

Trend Analyst, EDITD www.editd.com/blog

By Joy Spanabel Emery This history of pattern making is an in-depth and illustrated chronology of innovations in pattern making that shaped home sewing and market demands, as well as more business innovation.

CHRIS WILKINSON

Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com

KATIE SMITH

A History of the Paper Pattern Industry: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution

Fashion Consultant

NORRIE MONTGOMERY Photographer

PHOTOGRAPHER Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Nathalie Owen, Dearra Naidoo CIRCULATION/ADMIN Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287 Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland,

PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794

NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2014 NZ Apparel Magazine.

Dries Van Noten Hardcover – June 25, 2014

By Pamela Golbin and Hamish Bowles, Illustrations by Joseph Logan Take some time in the mind of an Antwerp Fashion Icon. Following Dries Van Noten’s work from concept to construction, from the beginning to the latest, this volume is diverse and enticing with many inspiring illustrations.

NEWS GHD INTRODUCES AURA

Expert in heat styling, ghd, has unveiled the latest revolutionary product innovation to join its award winning collection – salon professional hair dryer, ghd aura. The groundbreaking new generation hairdryer combines the power of drying and styling to give effortless styling control with the ultimate volume and shine to all hair types. ghd has created two breakthrough patented technologies setting ghd aura light years ahead of its competition.

Cool-Wall and Laminair technology allow the user to experience a concentrated airflow resulting in exceptional styling precision, control and the very best smooth finish. Established in 2001, ghd is committed to developing the most effective and innovative products for the hair care industry.

BABY G CELEBRATES 20 YEARS

KATE SYLVESTER TURNS 21

NZ fashion designer Kate Sylvester celebrated her milestone 21 years in business this month with an old fashioned 21st party at the Grey Lynn Bowling Club. In her speech Sylvester paid tribute to everyone that had contributed to the brand over the past 21 years. Congratulations!

Photo: Norrie Montgomery.

KIWIS’ ONLINE SHOPPING

There are now 1.9 million New Zealanders shopping online, 56 percent of the total online population. Nielsen’s latest online retail report has found the number of people shopping online increased by over 100,000, growth of six percent in the last year. It also showed that New Zealanders spent $3.8 billion shopping online and this number is expected to reach $4.15 billion by the end of the year. Research director, Tony Boyte added, “Kiwis have well and truly embraced internet shopping. The number of items each person is buying is increasing at a rapid rate. Nearly half a million Kiwis each made 11 or more purchases on the internet last year, an increase of 58 percent in the last two years”. $1.3 billion is

Celebrating 20 years, Casio Baby-G is taking a trip back in time with a renaissance of the classic DW500C model.

The retro-inspired BGD500 series will flashback to the touchstones of 90s style while still toasting modern, millennial tastes.

Casio launched Baby-G in 1994 as the sister brand to G-Shock, which celebrated 30 years in 2013. The original DW-520 model inherited the shock resistance and toughness of the G-Shock in a smaller case to fit women and pop colouring expressing the design concept of ‘Tough and Cute’. Gaining popularity, especially among young ladies in their late teens, the Baby-G blazed a trail for digital watches to become a part of women’s fashion. Since then, the lineup has been expanded with continually advancing features and designs. Today, the Baby-G has grown into a women’s brand that has sold more than 30 million units.

For the full story visit www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

spent by New Zealanders on websites based overseas, with USA, Australia and the UK being the most popular. 34 percent of the total amount Kiwis spent shopping online is spent overseas, an increase from 26 percent the previous year and double that of 2010. Clothing, shoes and accessories was the second highest purchase at 40 percent. Boyte notes that, “Consumers shop online for convenience, which includes being able to compare products and prices. It’s a trend that will continue to grow and with this, spend will increase substantially.

A considerable proportion of spend will continue to go offshore but the opportunity remains for New Zealand retailers to take advantage of growth in the online retail space”.

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NEWS MIROMODA ATTRACTS INTERNATIONALS

MIromoda the Indigenous Maori Fashion Apparel Board has taken its annual fashion design competition from flax roots in 2008 to an international level in 2014. Founding director of New Zealand Fashion Week and Miromoda judge Dame Pieter Stewart admitted part way through the competition she was struggling to select who wouldn’t be going to NZFW, as opposed to who would be. “I’ve been blown away with the fantastic talent and the standard this competition now attracts.”

Miromoda co-founder and organiser, Ata Te Kanawa says she is relieved judging is not part of her role but was caught off guard when Stewart advised she was not prepared to go back on any of her selections. Te Kanawa says the design talent and quality under the Miromoda brand had grown incrementally with each year and it doesn’t look like it’s going to stop anytime soon. For more information and images visit our website www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

LINGERIE LIKE IT USED TO BE Kay Goss, founder of GOSS Lingerie believes that lingerie is unique in that it can transform how a woman feels, whether it is worn to be seen or not. “Just the act of slipping into something so special; that helps to softly shape your body and made from such luxury materials can change how a woman feels and the way she meets the world.” Her fabrics range from rich textures to delicate weaves, nylon mesh or 100 percent silk, they are chosen to not only look gorgeous but feel great against the skin. “I want to create pieces that make women feel beautiful and inspire them – pieces that are chic, well made and sensual,” said Goss. “Lingerie is fashion too. A lot of our clients wear our bustiers and corsolettes as outerwear and they look amazing either worn casually or dressed up.”

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BEHIND THE BUSINESS Brand Profile

BIRD & KNOLL

FOLLOWING on from the successful debut collection of luxurious cashmere-blend scarves, trans-Tasman duo, Bird and Knoll have injected more colour into their Spring-Summer 14/15 collection that is equally inspiring. ‘Tea, Sugar and a Dream drew inspiration from the exotic jewel-like hues that are found in places like the markets of Peru or the bazaars of Istanbul. Photographer Natalie Knoll, one half of the creative duo, who is based in Sydney, draws upon her love for travel, and the name of the collection is from one of her travel anecdotes.

“It’s how a local taxi driver in Istanbul taught us to say Thank you in Turkish” says Knoll. “Teşekkür ederim – pronounced just like tea, sugar and a dream”. The new collection continues to feed travel inspirations and aspirations with Bird & Knoll’s stunning scarves that have been described by Harper’s Bazaar as a “failsafe travel accessory”.

“Our destinations are iconic and exotic and are always the primary inspiration for our designs. When someone purchases one of our scarves, they’re enjoying a moment in time, a place that has special meaning that they have either travelled to or aspire to visit” says Macayla Chapman, the fashion mind who pulls together the style details that make Bird and Knoll a stand-out in the industry.

Bird & Knoll’s attention to quality and detail carries over into their latest product – eye catching canvas pouches printed with their iconic photographic images. Like the scarves, the pouches are designed to be a multi-functional accessory, perfect for taking your iPad mini to the pool, carrying your suntan lotion, phone and keys to the beach or as a casual evening clutch for those island getaways. ‘Tea, Sugar and a Dream’ is about making travel for the sophisticated, fashion-savvy woman easy”, says Chapman.

“She can use her scarf as a wrap on the plane, a sarong at the beach or as a cover-up for the evenings, complimented by her Bird and Knoll canvas pouch that transitions from being a functional item during the day to the final edit for her evening outfit.”

Retail Management System RETAIL

Warehouse Automation WAREHOUSE

Point of Sale STORE

Working closely with customers to ensure that IT makes a positive contribution to their businesses

+64 9 831 0099 www.ontempo.co.nz

8 I July 2014

The Wallflower Takes On Bohemian Trends New to the New Zealand market comes bohemian and vintage inspired label The Wallflower. The label is a modern take on the trends that made head waves in the early 21st century. The Wallflower looks to style icons such as model Cara Delevigne and Alexa Chung, for their effortless, feminine yet edgy inspired looks. Portraying an aesthetic of ease, inhibition, movement and freedom, the relaxed ‘easy to wear’ silhouettes are finished with on trend inspired detailing.

The Wallflower designs paly with the contrast between earthy colour palettes and highlights of punchy colours and textures. The collections feature lace, embroideries and cutwork to add luxury vintage detailing. Fabrics are soft to ensure the product is comfortable and wearable.

For wholesale enquiries please contact, sales@ chalkboardagencies.com

Your businesses are as varied as our students . . .

. . . let us help you make the best match through work experience and employment options.

CALL Jacqui 09 309 5020 or visit www.nzfashiontech.ac.nz

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specialREPORT

THE RISE OF ACTIVEWEAR

THE rise of fashionable sportswear has grown significantly over the past decade, as consumer’s demands for chic activewear continues to grow; fashion designers bridge the gap between sportswear and contemporary fashion.

Consumer’s growing interest in fitness and health has seen a significant rise in women’s fitness programmes from yoga, zumba and pilates to spinning and ballet inspired workouts.

A 2012 study conducted by the Yoga Journal estimates that 20.4 million women practice yoga, whilst a 2010 study found that 22 million women in the United States belong to a gym, making it easy to see why activewear has become a major interest for retailers.

Lululemon drastically changed the sportswear industry when they introduced their stylish line of functional activewear in 1998 and have now become the go to sports brand for women.

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“We are committed to creating product that is both functional and beautiful. When what you’re wearing hits all cylinders – quality, fit, function and beauty – you do not want to take it off,” says Lululemon’s General Manager of Merchandise, Gordon Devin.

Lululemon made activewear cool and was a pivotal player in the shift from sportswear to everyday fashion.

“Our customer’s busy lifestyle means they value functional fashion and are looking for technically beautiful clothing,” Devin says.

“Functional elements like four-way stretch and moisture wicking fabrics allow our customers to transform their look and take the product from the studio to the street in style”.

A 2010 study conducted by the US Sports Apparel Survey says that 78% of women wear workout gear for purposes other than exercise.

This highlights how widespread the fitness trend has become, with a 9% increase in activewear sales in the US to $11.5 billion in 2013.

This has led sportswear retailers to collaborate with designers to produce high quality activewear lines with a designer flair. In 2004 Adidas began its collaboration with Stella McCartney; now in its 10th year the line’s innovative cutting edge designs and signature prints have made it one of the most successful brands on the market.

“It’s workout wear with attitude, to make you feel stylish while you exercise, creating standout pieces that you can make your own,” McCartney says. Adidas by Stella McCartney opened its first flagship store in the United States this year, highlighting the demand for fashionable high-end sportswear.

McCartney’s success with Adidas has led the brand to collaborate with several other high end designers including American designer Jeremy Scott, whose kooky colourful creations for the brand has led to a successful six year partnership. Nike recently released an exclusive men’s shoe collection with Givenchy’s Ricardo Tisci and Opening Ceremony launched a successful clothing collection in collaboration with Adidas in 2012.

The influence of sportswear in designers’ collections has become increasingly prevalent over the years, from the aerobics trend in the

1980’s to luxury sportswear collections at Ralph Lauren and Lacoste. However, the past few seasons has seen a fundamental shift towards a more permanent sportswear aesthetic.

“This is not a fashion trend, it’s a lifestyle trend,” says Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst of market research firm NPD Group, “the difference here is that there’s functionality mixed with fashion”.

Since his 2007 debut Alexander Wang has become the king of chic urban sportswear.

Wang turned the humble tee shirt into a wardrobe staple, transformed sweatpants into downtown cool and is credited for the rise of casual ‘street’ dressing. Wang designs clothing that women want to wear.

“It’s a T-shirt, it’s a jean, it’s a sweatshirt, but really exploited and made into these very fantastical things and objects and finding beauty in them,” he says. Wang’s fascination with sportswear has led to a new style of casual dressing, which has drastically altered the landscape of fashion design.

In 2011 cult Parisian label Isabel Marant launched its now infamous wedge sneaker.

“Sneakers were so comfortable but at the same time were not very elegant, so to have a little heel in it made a difference,” the designer says. Marant’s ‘it’ sneaker caused hysteria in the fashion industry and instantly became the next must have essential. New Balance’s Trent Willis credits the rise of the sneaker trend to Marant, saying her catapulting wedge sneakers went from non-existent to a staple piece almost overnight. At the time it was unique, feminine and fresh so she had a huge advantage over the broader athletic sneaker market.

Sneakers promptly began appearing on

countless designer runways, sparking the latest trend in sportswear.

“The sneaker trend is growing fast,” Willis says. “Five years ago, the average person had 12 pair of shoes in their wardrobe; today the average consumer has 17 pairs, half of which are athletic.

Part of this is driven by a heightened awareness that we all want to be fit, healthy and therefore appear athletic”.

Fashion’s premier designers have given this trend the ultimate seal of approval, from Dior’s sneaker heel hybrid from it’s 2014 fall collection to Chanel’s haute couture trainers, the sneaker has become the ultimate fashion statement.

However, a large market of fashionable sneakers has left little room for reinvention, with designers looking to iconic sportswear brands for inspiration.

Karl Lagerfeld’s sneaker collection for his eponymous label featured a K motif that appeared airily similar to New Balance’s signature N logo. This caused New Balance to file a lawsuit against Lagerfeld accusing him of copyright. “Although we cannot comment on the specifics of the case, we believe it is vital to actively and vigorously defend our brand,” says New Balance’s Jeff Graham.

Savvy retailers are cashing in on the sportswear trend, producing exclusive sportswear collections to reach a new demographic of consumers.

Retail giant H & M launched a successful line of women’s sportswear, producing an affordable and quality activewear range for running, swimming, yoga, dance, and tennis. Tory Burch is currently in the process of developing her own activewear line, set for a 2015 release. The line will initially focus on apparel and accessories for yoga, running, golf and tennis.

These high and low end sportswear ranges demonstrate the strong demand for retailers to enter the activewear market, and with figures for the global sportswear industry set to grow to $178 billion by 2019, it’s no wonder retailers are keen to seek a profit from the sportswear trend.

“Luxury and sports are over a long period of time, growing markets,” says Chief Executive Officer of Kering, Francois-Henri Pinault. The French luxury goods magnate said he would consider acquiring sports and lifestyle brands.

“Five years ago, the average person had 12 pair of shoes in their wardrobe; today the average consumer has 17 pairs, half of which are athletic. Part of this is driven by a heightened awareness that we all want to be fit, healthy and therefore appear athletic”.

“When you look at the next 20, 30 years in terms of economic development of the world, the key markets are young people, very much attracted by brands and very much aware of the health issues attracted by sports”.

Luxury e-tailer Net-A-Porter has taken e-commerce to new heights with the launch of Net-A-Sporter, an online shopping site dedicated to providing consumers with chic sophisticated sportswear.

“We spotted a gap in the market for being a one-stop shop for workout wear where fashion meets function and where performance and style are equally valued,” says president of Net-APorter, Alison Loehnis. With 37 fashion brands and eleven sporting categories, Net-A-Sporter is set to become the next big thing in the online sportswear market.

Consumers’ growing interest in fitness and health has prompted the emergence of several high-end activewear brands such as Lululemon and Adidas, which have transformed womens sportswear into a multi-billion dollar industry.

This has led fashion designers to develop a permanent sportswear aesthetic as casual street style continues to dominate the fashion industry.

As the online sportswear market continues to grow, sportswear is set to become more than just a trend but a classic wardrobe staple for women around the world.

By Nathalie Owen

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BEHIND THE BUSINESS

In Conversation With…

GARTH BADGER The last six years has seen well known Auckland-based photographer Garth Badger move from strength to strength.

Badger’s studio Thievery has been a go to studio for all photography and video needs for many sectors including the fashion industry. Now, after taking over a larger space within the same building on Auckland’s Karangahape Road, has taken on a more creative commercial space designed to get creative’s mixing together.

The new and old space incorporates both communal areas and studios where people can rent it out for, meetings, photographic/filming purposes, events, corporate functions, product launches and art exhibitions. With three studios, two offering all day natural light and one blackout product studio, there is always something on offer.

Aside from his studio, Badger offers his own photography expertise for clients wanting high quality moving and still imagery. He has worked extensively for television, commercial, web content, commercial, fashion and music sectors and has a wide range of creative services.

Initially starting as an intern while living in New York, Badger moved back to NZ to assist some of New Zealand’s top photographers and after three years shooting personal work on the side felt he could transition to shooting himself.

“It was difficult and uncertain initially but was worth the perseverance,” says Badger.

While he isn’t hard at work shooting top brands such as Nike and personalities like Lorde and Ellie Goulding, Badger loves doing taxidermy and fly-fishing.

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BEHIND THE BUSINESS

Building Brands With Purpose For A Sustainable Business Model A RECENT raw and vulnerable conversation landed me a ticket to the Conscious Capitalism event in Sydney. Surrounded by like minded people and listening to inspiring leaders of brands like Aesop, Red Balloon, Whole kids and Swisse supported an epiphany moment, something that I had been brewing on for months to help me form and align all the things that I loved and more so passionate about.

Conscious Capitalism is a not for profit organization headed up by John Mackey (co CEO Whole Food Market) and Raj Sisodia (a distinguished Professor of Global Business) who’s “primary purpose is to inspire the creation of more conscious businesses, businesses galvanized by higher purpose that serve and align the interests of all their major stakeholders; businesses with conscious leaders who exist in service to the company’s purpose, the people it touches, and the planet; and businesses with resilient, caring cultures that make working there a source of great joy and fulfillment.”

The epiphany realization was I wanted to focus on Building Brands with Purpose.

Something that I had always been doing but this time it dawned on me as my purpose.

A tale of the past

Growing up in my family business taught me everything (well nearly) I know about Building a Brand.

When I joined SUPRÉ in 1997 we were in Voluntary Administration, Dawn Fraser (Australia’s Greatest Olympian) was one of our brand Ambassadors and we sold everything but midriffs and mini skirts.

Over the next 10 years, we grew the business into Australia’s Leading Youth Fashion Retailer, a brand that empowered, educated and championed young women through music, entertainment, health, fitness and lifestyle and fashion was just the bi product of supporting young women.

The brand had a purpose…

• We grew from 40 stores to 165 stores across Australia and New Zealand • Had thousands of team members working from the hub in Marrickville and China • We had one of the fastest growing online and mobile fashion stores in Australia • We were building an iconic Australian empire However, the minute the business shifted it’s focus from purpose and passion to being focussed on price, product and profitability was a pivotal time in the business. It had lost its lust and competitors were filing in.

WHY Build a Brand with Purpose?

With an increased competitive landscape and the global doors of online, business challenges are changing daily and so too must our business strategies.

Our focus has shifted from purpose and passion of WHY we are in business to staying afloat and driving profitability for shareholders.

Building a brand with purpose is the difference between staying afloat and driving sustainability of your business and ultimately profitability.

Profitability is still an extremely important factor of the business, however other more powerful measures of success need to be embedded into the Business.

In Building a Brand with Purpose it’s important to ask yourself and the key stakeholders of your business some crucial questions 1. What is the higher purpose of my business, division or team?

2. What are our core values?

If we don’t have a higher purpose or values, what do you think they should be?

3. Do I orient my decisions around that purpose and values?

4. Who are my 5 most important stakeholders?

5. How can I make sure that we deeply understand their needs and wants? (Think

about all the things you can do to find out more about them) 6. Do I influence up and across with wisdom and courage? How could I do this better?

7. How can we make our culture a “forever” part of our business, not just a brief intervention?

These questions will help you define your business purpose, values, stakeholders needs, the leadership and culture of the business.

How to build a brand with purpose...

• Consumer market research to connect with what is important to them and their needs • Connect and understand your potential consumers through market research • Develop a brand plan and strategy • Develop a marketing plan and strategy • Define the business’ greater purpose • Leverage the greater purpose internally and externally • Go to market as a brand with purpose • Support internally through leadership • Driven through a Culture of Purpose “Paradoxically, the best way to maximise profits over the long term is not to make them the primary goal of the business” John Mackey (co CEO Whole Foods Market)

The outcomes

• Build a Profitable Business with Purpose • Create sustainability and Longevity in Business • Have an Engaged team • Connect with Loyal Customers • Create a point of difference to competitors • Develop a unified message • Create an aspirational brand that people connect to • Create a brand that puts it’s Stakeholders first Catherine Taouk will be speaking at Fashion Exposed Sydney 16 – 18 August 2015. Register for free at fashionexposed.com

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COLOUR TRENDING

LOUIS VUITTON RESENE Solitaire

GUCCI RESENE Shinto

TOM FORD RESENE Dusty Road

MARC JACOBS RESENE Alaska

CARVEN RESENE Supernova

The sixties are swinging back in vogue, as designers look to the iconic era for their fall 2014 collections.

THE SIXTIES were a significant time of change in the fashion industry, as Anna Wintour says, “growing up in London in the ‘60s, you’d have to have had Irving Penn’s sack over your head not to know something extraordinary was happening in fashion”.

The iconic era has become a huge source of inspiration for designers and this year was no exception with several designers bringing out their inner mods, sending sixties chic models down the runway.

Gucci left its usual disco glamour behind for a striking fall collection of accessible daytime looks. “I think it’s important in this time to make real clothes for women,” Frida Giannini said after the show. Giannini looked to the house’s archives for her fall collection, sending sixties-mods in dusty pastel hues down the runway in snakeskin go-go boots, chic mini dresses, shaggy fur coats, sophisticated peat

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coats and flared trousers. This baby blue napa leather dress, matched by Resene Shinto, has a decidedly sixties flair with the black collar and the striking jewel embellishment. Giannini eschewed the perceptible black and white cliché of the sixties in favor of a pallet of cool pastel shades of baby pink, blue and green, which highlighted the house’s signature trademark glamour.

Hedi Slimane’s fall collection for Saint Laurent was nothing short of incandescent.

Slimane has continued to implement the idea of appropriation throughout his collections at Saint Laurent, this season more so than ever.

Glittering Mary Janes, tweed pea coats, luscious red capes, smoking pant suits and sparkly mini dresses donned the Edie Sedgwick clad models on the Saint Laurent catwalk. Californian artist John Baldessari featured in Slimane’s invitations for the show, a prelude to the artistic

collaboration for his fall collection. A trio of glittering sequin shift dresses were a standout amongst the collection, specifically this black mini dress matched by Resene Cinder; which was credited as part of a limited edition of 10, designed in collaboration with Baldessari.

Slimane’s teenage dolly birds shimmered with rebellion and sixties glamour and highlighted Slimane’s devotion to youth culture.

Tom Ford’s fall 2014 collection featured strong, streamlined silhouettes and was a striking transformation from his colourful and elaborate debut in London last year. “When you go very far one way, you get in a mood to swing back the other way,” he said after his fall show. Ford’s collection was heavily influenced by his homes in Santa Fe and London and was a unique mix of swinging London meets western cowgirl. Models clad in needle-heeled cowboy boots marched down the runway in

VALENTINO RESENE Knock Out

DRIES VAN NOTEN RESENE Chilean Fire

MIU MIU RESENE Alluring

SAINT LAURENT RESENE Cinder

VERSACE RESENE Eighth Rice Cake

Colours available from Resene ColorShops | www.resene.co.nz | 0800 737 363 striking ensembles of black velvet dresses, red alligator skirt suits and leopard shifts matched by Resene Dusty Road. But Ford, not forgetting his flamboyant roots caused a stir sending Karen Elson down the runway in a florid fox coat. The highlight of the collection was Ford’s knockoff 61 sequin football jerseys, referencing Jay Z’s unauthorized tee shirt for his current tour. “That sells for $65 dollars” he says, “my knockoff will sell for $6,500”.

After fourteen years of Marc Jacobs at the helm of Louis Vuitton, Nicholas Ghesquiére debuted his highly anticipated fall collection for the French fashion house. Ghesquiére produced a pragmatic and accessible collection for a new kind of Vuitton women that dresses with “a new casualness, a way of mixing the clothes - casual with formal, who carries these codes in a very cool and functional way,” he explains. In a nod to the sixties spirit of

Carnaby Street, Ghesquiére opened the show with a black leather coat with a wide caramel collar, paired with an oatmeal turtleneck shift dress similar to Resene Solitaire. A slew of boxy leather coats, mini skirts and long sleeved mini dresses followed suit in a pallet of neutral tones and dusky hues, marking a new era for the house of Vuitton.

Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli presented an artistic fall collection inspired by 1960’s artists Giosetta Fioroni, Carol Rama and Carla Accardi. From shirt collar dresses and embroidered tulle gowns to an array of gorgeous woolen capes, it was an utterly sixties inspired collection. Prints featured heavily throughout the collection, with the pop art graphics being a serious departure from previous romantic collections the duo have produced, whilst still in keeping the house’s codes. The pink and red long-

sleeved polka dot mini dress, matched by Resene Knock Out was a standout amongst the collection, whilst Chiuri and Piccioli’s signature virginal embellished tulle gowns gave the show an enchanting renaissance air.

In contrast to the soft femininity of Valentino was the killer sex appeal of a Versace mini dress, here matched by Resene Eighth Rice Cake, the house’s trademark micro mini dresses were paired with thigh high suede boots in a nod to the sixties mod movement.

Dries Van Noten produced a swirl of eyepopping designs for his fall collection. Inspired by 1960’s op artist Bridget Riley, Van Noten produced an array of swirling, colourful and kaleidoscopic patterned coats and dresses in vibrant hues of purple and orange, similar to Resene Longitude, for a quintessentially psychedelic sixties look.

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ELKA KNITWEAR:

Elka Knitwear was founded by knitwear artist Kate Mischler in 2013, and was born out of Kate’s desire to create unique, handcrafted, opulent pieces, utilising only the finest fabrics.

The brand offers one off pieces of wearable art, with each garment telling a story with its unique custom design. Kate designs garments for every woman, using clean lines and flattering shapes that compliment a variety of body shapes.

Kate has now developed a diffusion line for the brand called Elka Wild, which fuses luxurious comfort with sophisticated style. Elka Wild is proudly designed and made in New Zealand and draws inspiration from nature, music, and art. “Fashion

DALSTON:

After years of experience in the New Zealand and British fashion industries, best friends Monique and Jules decided to create their own label Dalston in 2007. “We were eager to join forces and put that valuable London experience to good use, to bring beautifully made wearable fashion to New Zealand women,” Monique said. “Working with other designers taught us hands on experience, but we learnt a lot from style on the streets of London”. Dalston produces classic, feminine designs, for the stylish and fashionable women who love well-made clothes that make you look good and feel great. Dalston’s Spring/ Summer 2015 collection features eye-catching prints and understated feminine designs. “It taps into the playful summer spirit with an easy, contemporary collection informed by theatrical tones and botanical beauty,” Monique says. Dalston is stocked in ten stores nationwide and the label is about to launch an online store. For product enquiries please contact, info@dalston.co.nz or phone 09 378 0578

FIX 8:

Fix-8 is a New Zealand made bracelet constructed from number 8 fencing wire. Designed and created by Sally Frewin, the bracelet has become a symbol of New Zealand’s great Kiwi ingenuity. “I wanted to create a contemporary piece of Kiwi jewellery that embodied our number 8 wire mentality,” Sally says. “Phrases like ‘number 8 wire mentality’, ‘Kiwi ingenuity’ and ‘can-do attitude’ are such a part of our unique vernacular and I wanted to harness that”. The Fix-8 bracelet comes in either a single or interlocking double design and is available in a range of finishes including silver, copper and brushed metal.

“The whole idea encompasses the wire. For me it was all about capturing the fun, positive Kiwi ‘can-do’ number 8 wire attitude in a stylish way”. The Fix-8 bracelet is currently stocked in select boutiques throughout New Zealand. For product enquires please contact, sally@fix8.net.nz

should be fun, not complicated. Elka Wild doesn’t follow trends, but focuses on timeless elegance, allowing women to easily make lasting updates to their wardrobe. Ultimately, the range blends quality and comfort without sacrificing style”.

Elka Knitwear and Elka Wild are stocked in select boutiques throughout the nation as well as Elka’s online boutique. For stockist enquires please contact, info@elkaknitwear.co.nz or phone 09 631 7099

STATUS ANXIETY: PROVENANCE:

Provenance is a new onlinebased textile company dedicated to providing a space for artisans around the world. Providing handcrafted textiles by the metre that are primarily coloured using natural dyes and pigments, Provenance fabrics are mainly sourced in India.

Mother-daughter founders, Yvonne and Amanda Stewart both share love textiles. “We have always been close, so going into business together wasn’t a hard decision,” said Amanda. “I was always surrounded by textiles and handcrafts and Mum was always sewing something, so I guess it was in my blood to work within the textile industry”. Amanda’s vast experience in the textile industry has enabled her to see a gap in the Australasian market for ethical handcrafted textiles. The company applies Fair Trade principles to their business model to ensure a sustainable outlet for global artisans. A Certificate of Authenticity is provided with each purchase, detailing the origin and authenticity of the fabric. Provenance is fast becoming the go to brand for artisans from all over the globe seeking traditional, authentic and ethically sourced fabrics. For further enquiries please contact Amanda on info@provenance.co.nz

16 I July 2014

Will Sked established Australian premium leather and accessories label, Status Anxiety in 2004. The brand has a cult-like following with its luxe leather wallets and sophisticated handbags. The idea for the brand stemmed from Will’s frustration over poor selection of men’s wallets. “At the time there was pretty much only logo emblazoned surf or ‘Dad’ style men’s wallets. So my best mate and I thought we could do this and there must have been a gap in the market because stores took our gear on,” said Will. Status Anxiety creates edgy and affordable pieces that are made from the finest French and Italian leather.

Their unique minimalistic pieces have created a large following due to their classic understated appeal. Status Anxiety is stocked in over 600 fashion boutiques in Australia, New Zealand, Japan, Singapore, Canada and US. With plans to open its own store sometime in the future, Status Anxiety looks set to become the next big accessories label in fashion. For product enquiries contact, will@statusanxiety.com.au or phone +61 2 8517 0550

JULIAN DANGER Jess Bra in Black KOWTOW Infinity Shirt Dress KOWTOW Newton Shorts

ON THE COVER COVER: BLUE BLANK Thin Halter Harness MODEL: Helena T @ Red11 PHOTOGRAPHER: Caitlan Mitchell

CYBÈLE Strap Dress Long in Black

JULIAN DANGER Harlow Cami in Black KOWTOW Exposure Scarf LONELY LINGERIE Lux Brief

COMPANY OF STRANGERS Under Skin Slip in Black KOWTOW Installation Dress in White

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 17

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

NEON GYPSY

Neon Gypsy is an up and coming fashion brand for the free spirited bohemian, created by mother-daughter duo Carole and Chloe Jarrett.

THE Mount Maunganui based brand offers feminine, playful designs with an undeniably bohemian flair.

Neon Gypsy is “bohemian with a gypsy undertone, but refreshingly modern and strong,” Chloe says. “We want our pieces to be feminine and flattering for all ages and body shapes”.

Carole and Chloe started the label five years ago in true gypsy style, selling their designs at the Mount Maunganui markets. “We have been doing markets together for a long time and people kept asking us where our shop was,” Carole says. “Finally we realised we needed to open a shop. So we did our homework, researched the market and took the plunge with Neon Gypsy”. The duo opened their first store in the Mount last year and business has been booming ever since.

The company’s unique name was inspired by Carole and Chloe’s gypset lifestyle, “we are always travelling and searching for new places and fabrics for inspiration, but we’re not traditional gypsies,” Chloe explains, “we’re modern, so that’s were the neon comes in. Mum just came out with Neon Gypsy one day and it stuck”.

Carole’s extensive background and knowledge of the fashion industry combined with Chloe’s love of fashion and style make the duo the perfect team. “I was always around fashion because of mum, she really exposed me to fabrics, style and creativity and it just rubbed off,” Chloe says. “We do everything together, so it just made sense to go into business together”.

Neon Gypsy have become known for their signature blossom floral print and lace and pom pom trims. Their stylish, easy to wear designs and bright feminine prints give their clothing a tranquil versatility which appeals to a large demographic. “Fabrics are the number one influence to us. We always start with the fabric, colour is next” Carole says. “I love florals, paisleys and leopard prints, but mum is more into texture velvets, lace and silk.

Together we influence and inspire each other until we have designs we are both happy with,” Chloe says.

The Neon Gypsy women is “strong, modern and enjoys expressing herself through her clothes,” Chloe says. “The ladies who love our collections are a mixture of sizes, shapes, ages and nationalities, but they all share that enjoyment of discovering something different and unique”.

The mother daughter duo design the collections in New Zealand and have the clothing made in Bali, by a small family owned and operated

18 I July 2014

manufacturer; ensuring that the entire design and production process is local and family orientated. Carole and Chloe visit Indonesia every three months to meet their manufacturers and find inspiration for their next collection. Neon Gypsy currently stock other bohemian brands that complement the effortless beauty of the brand’s main line, including Little Lies, Boho Australia, Kivari, Amilitia and the French brand Hipanema.

The Neon Gypsy store is just as unique and colourful as the label’s designs, featuring neon light bulbs, dream catchers and a vintage bike; giving the store a fun, whimsical appeal. “We wanted the store to be soft, feminine, and whimsical meets modern and edgy. It was a collaborative effort, but it continues to evolve over time, we are always tweaking things,” Chloe says.

Carole and Chloe have created a successful online store and are currently building a new website, which they hope to launch in the next couple of months. “It’s a big step for us and we’re very excited about it. We decided to do this because we have such a strong customer base in Auckland and in Australia too,” she says.

The future has a lot in store for the talented duo, who are now focussing on launching their online website and their next collection, “but we are excited to be here and are enjoying our customers”. Neon Gypsy is a haven of beautiful treasures that “have a bohemian heart, with a modern day sense of style and confidence”. It is a real gem where women will discover a unique find that will bring out their inner neon gypsy.

By Nathalie Owen

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

Retail And The Essence Of Change

STAKTRAK

BOOSTING profits as well as STAKTRAK brand awareness is often a tough combination to get right. Retailers utilising the latest trend, pop-up shops, have been successful at this and leveraged this to their advantage but not without some unique challenges.

Empty shipping containers transformed into stores that make up Boxpark in East London has been one of the greatest success stories of the pop-up phenomenon. These temporary conversions have allowed artists, designers and entrepreneurs to raise profiles, gain valuable brand awareness and all before taking the dive into a more permanent retail space.

It has been reported that almost 20 percent of shops are vacant in London, according to Deloitte professional services. Pop-ups do provide a cheap alternative for both retailers and landlords. Startups and niche independent retailers may have started early on the trend, now however the larger retailers and big name designers want a piece of the pie.

Obstacles to successful implementation of pop-up stores can be staffing, with the temporary nature of this concept, applicants are usually younger and less experienced. Design can also affect success with store design being a key element and just because they are temporary doesn’t mean they should be thrown together, a lot of custom fittings and embellishments can make all the difference. Finally location. Whether within an existing mall space or in a remote location, technology will play a huge part.

Another area of interest is the increase in instore marketing/concept areas where labels are implementing branded gondolas and walls.

Department stores like Smith and Caugheys and Farmers have branded walls and kiosks promoting various brands. Labels like WORLD and Karen Walker have its own store within a store concept and this works well for other brands that may not get the foot traffic should they have their own retail space.

For retailers this means merchandising is easy and customers can find brands effortlessly and at first glance.

Companies such as Creative Displays in Auckland have been servicing the country’s needs for in-store branded displays for the last 25 years.

General manager, Rob Tollenaar believes his company’s new display option Staktrak is an easy and consistent approach for brands that have multiple stockists.

“Staktrak is an integrated retail system which combines the key retail elements of merchandising, branding, marketing and lighting to create a seamless retail store theme,” said Tollenaar. “From the front window, to any wall or freestanding fixture; Staktrak’s space efficient design allows for maximum usage per sq/m of retail space. The system can be tailored to suit any brand, product or display purpose.”

“Change is a necessity in today’s retail environment where customer experience is rated above all else to drive sales and create customer loyalty. Reconfiguring Staktrak is as quick and easy as sliding, rotating and changing the modular elements.”

To celebrate a new concept area within an existing store, Rebel Sport Manukau invited heavyweight boxer Joseph Parker to a signing session to mark the official opening of the new Under Armour concept area.

The new concept area is to be rolled out within a number of key retailers over the next three years.

These will be at premier Under Armour retail destinations and provide comprehensive line of Under Armour products. Its newest location is a destination for customers to experience the brand’s latest innovations and brings retail to life, creating an easy to shop encounter focused on telling the story of the brand’s innovation. apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 19

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

Helps refocus the team OFTEN, awareness and focus are all that’s needed to help turn around those seasonally challenging ‘quiet days of winter’. Chris Wilkinson from First Retail shares a simple strategy that can help When the weather takes a turn for the worse, customers tend to become few and far between.

It’s times like these that impact cashflow, your staff to sales ratio – and sanity.

Simple fact is that it’s unlikely even the best promotion will bring more people out when it’s blowing a gale or pouring down. Instead, it’s about maximising the opportunity you do have with those that are coming through your door.

Recently when working with a large franchise group, we developed simple ‘plan-b’ strategies that helped store owners engage staff in helping boost quieter periods of trade.

Tips for Creating Engaging Online Training

By Anya Anderson

ONLINE training has seen a sharp rise in popularity among retailers as an effective means of upskilling and developing team members skills. The last three years has seen the spend on online learning increase by around 60 per cent as businesses realise the the value of this training method. If you’re going to invest in online training, you want to know that it’s going to pay off, and the best way to do this is to make sure that your online course is engaging and optimised for maximum knowledge retention.

Follow these seven tips when you’re creating your online training and you’ll be sure to get a good return.

20 I July 2014

By Chris Wilkinson

The pressure of slow days is always felt by business owners – but rarely staff. They’ll often be unaware sales barely cover overheads – and that too many in a row can have dire consequences. For this reason it’s vital that retailers build awareness around productivity and sales conversion.

Developing a simple chart that staff can fill out tracking customer entry, enquiry and sales conversion is a great way to help. The very need to complete this helps develop new priorities in terms of role retention, individual performance and business sustainability.

Of course, most businesses have automated these processes; however this is invisible to staff members. Typically owners only learn of the store’s performance at the end of the day – often when it’s too late.

By stepping back to a good old chart and realtime updates by hand, those on the shop floor actually begin thinking about each and every interaction. They take ownership and pride in performance.

In the stores that have tried this, we’ve seen good success. Whether it’s a combination of luck and focus – or just renewed engagement from staff alone, the simple fact is that sales have lifted.

Sharing the load is important for business people. Nothing works better than building awareness and having everyone on your team working together to maximise sales opportunities.

Before you do Anything, Map Your Course

engaging content that is guaranteed to help you see a return, then you owe it to yourself (and to your team) to harness the power of whitespace to create tidy and engaging training.

You should always set aside time to map out your course before you start building it.

Brainstorming is a great way to get all of your ideas down in one place. When you’re brainstorming, just think ‘the messier the better’. Think of the process like a funnel. Start with broad ideas and slowly distill and refine everything down to just the important stuff.

Teach Trainees What They Need to Know You need to make sure that what you’re teaching your team is relevant. When you’re planning each training module or session, put yourself in your trainees shoes and follow the ‘What, Why, How’ thought pattern; What is the technique? Why do I need to know about it? How do I use it?

Keep it Manageable: Think Small and Often So, how do you decide what’s manageable? A good general rule is to keep training sessions to 30 minutes maximum. This may not suit your business, so consider what can actually be done in the course of a normal day and create your training to match.

Make Good Use of Whitespace Why is this so important? With the right use of whitespace, you can increase comprehension by up to 20 percent! If you want to create truly

Create Engagement Through Video Content Video content engages a learner in a way that other mediums simply cannot do. Putting theory and skill-demonstrations into a visual format appeals to a wider range of learning styles, incorporating visual, auditory and written stimulation.

Pilot Your Course Before Rollout You should always, always, always run a pilot of your course before you ‘go live’ to the whole team. This allows you to pick up on anything that may be a barrier to training for your wider audience. An important step which could save you from ‘failure at launch’.

Plan a ‘Post Pilot Review’ for Every Course Don’t rush this, give yourself time to get a few of your trainees through and then schedule time to review the course and get all of their feedback.

Once you’ve made the necessary changes you’re ready to go live!

TRENDWATCH

culottes fit for comeback No longer relegated to primary school playgrounds, Culottes return this season with flair. Following the active wear uprising, culottes offer the elegance of a skirt whilst retaining the functionality of a pant. The fall collections have been saturated in wide legged pants in a contemporary array of fabrics to bring to light a truly versatile and functional piece set to become a staple in upcoming winter wardrobes.

Acne was founded and has long been a street wear influenced label, but after what seemed to be a divide between runway and in store founder Jonny Johansson has re-aligned the brand identity showcasing a collection fit to wear off the runway. Inspired by a family beach trip, the collection focuses on water and has undertones of work-wear staying true to the brands street style roots.

HermĂŠs had a more sophisticated approach this fall presenting tailored jackets, business skirts and cocktail dresses. The collection is saved by some expert drapery that takes what could have been a boring boxy business show into a fluid display of clothing that borders the lines of work and play. The culottes were paired with minimalist blazers to play up the look for a professional environment, but if paired with one of the more casual capes, pieces from the collection could easily transition to a weekend outfit.

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I 21

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

SUMMER SALES THE DISCOUNTING LOWDOWN

By Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITD

and not damaging brand by having a high level of discounting. House of Fraser and Kohl’s have healthy proportions of full priced and low and high discounting, while ASOS’s shoppers can snare a bargain with their high volume of product reduced by 50% and more. In their case, where trend-led product is key, clearing stock with a short lifespan fast is important, and justifies this weighting.

AS WE enter the summer sales season, markdowns get competitive and retailers clamor for shopper attention with splashy red sales banners. It’s a risky time for retail and markdowns are carefully planned to optimize on a product’s life cycle and margin, whilst ensuring stock is cleared at the correct time: not too early, nor too late.

This is a crucial time for retailers to rely on data – driving action from careful analysis of competitors’ actions and timing of trends, as well as planning ahead with historical data. In this article, we look at the differences in the markdown calendars in the UK and US markets, tactics at the world’s 7 largest retailers and reveal which market segment has the highest level of discounting.

1. The luxury market discounts hard

3. The UK & US operate very different discounting calendars

5. Tops are the category where the biggest price slashes lie Currently the category with the highest level of discounting is tops, followed by dresses and bottoms. Beauty is the segment with the least discounting. Menswear sees a higher rate of discounting than womenswear – 51% of menswear is currently reduced, compared to 42% of women’s and 41% of childrenswear.

Naturally, retailers looking to expand globally need to pay close attention to the local market.

The US and UK have starkly different sales periods, and not understanding these, specific to a retailer’s segment, could result in unnecessary loss of margin or damaging levels of dead stock. The US market runs to a traditional sale calendar, with a high level of markdowns around November’s Thanksgiving sales. In the summer season, the US discounts dramatically in May, easing off in June. Retailers come back with heavier markdowns during July. Meanwhile, the UK runs into summer reductions earlier, with mid-season sales push in March, which goes relatively unnoticed in the US. UK retailers then focus the majority of price drops in June, not July, like the US market.

The luxury market, despite having the smallest proportion of its offering reduced, has the highest proportion of reductions of 50% or more. In fact, luxury has a greater number of reductions of over 50% than of under 50% – the only market displaying this behavior. That’s especially interesting from a buying perspective, suggesting that when luxury buyers get it wrong, they get it really wrong. Too few luxury retailers are relying on metrics to avoid markdowns, and the risk that costly dead stock poses them is high.

The premium market is the most discounted – with 58% of current offering receiving some sort of markdown. Meanwhile, the value market is the industry’s least discounted – rightly so given the low cost, and margin, of products within this market.

2. Farfetch’s huge offering is risky A view of the world’s largest online retailers reveals Farfetch to have the largest offering.

However, with nearly 68% of their offering discounted or price reduced, their full-priced assortment is too small. Their dropshipping concept from global boutiques means dead stock doesn’t clog up their own warehouses, but having such high levels of reductions will damage the credentials of the site. In contrast, Nordstrom have a very low rate of discounting, just 23% of their entire range is currently marked down.

Zappos could reduce the scale of their sale assortment by increasing the proportion of markdowns in the 50% off and higher category – moving product through the sale cycle faster

22 I July 2014

4. 27 emails in one month?

Kohl’s over-communicate their sale EDITD’s Visual Merchandising software tracks every output from hundreds of global brands and retailers, allowing us at a glance to view the number of newsletters a retailer has sent out in a month. We’ve plotted how many of the newsletters the world’s biggest retailers sent in June featured full-priced product and how many were overtly focused on sales. It’s clear to see that Kohl’s are over-communicating their reductions, with 27 sales emails to one full-priced email!

Zappos meanwhile are mute on their reductions.

Nordstrom, however, strike a good balance.

CONCLUSION: SALES ARE ENDURING FOR LONGER THAN 2 YEARS AGO Sales periods are lasting longer than they did two years ago, and high levels of discounting kicks in earlier. In June 2012, 15% of discounts were greater than 50%, by June 2013 that had climbed to 25%. This June saw 24% of discounted products reduced by 50% or more.

Retailers must carefully navigate these extended sales periods in order to optimize margins and continue to delight consumers.

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

The Science of Fashion Q: How Will Fashion Look in 50 Years?

A: Lively.

TEXTILE designer Suzanne Lee asked herself what fashion would look like in 50 years when researching for her book, Fashioning the Future.

Her answer may seem inconceivable at first but Lee is harvesting some real attention for her biodegradable and energy efficient idea to grow clothes from living organisms.

In 50 years time the most important progresses in fashion culture will not be cut and colour but the culture that our clothes comes from - and by culture we are talking about something closer to a petri dish than the latest films. In the same book that covered spray on dresses and talking t-shirts Lee challenged an even greater conceptual shift, one that involves biologists, engineers and materials scientists in creating fashion.

When Lee teamed up with materials scientist David Hepworth, founder of the Scotland-based firm Cellucomp that develops materials made from non-hydrocarbon-based feedstock, a new fashion field was grown. As Hepworth said “Instead of thinking about fibre production from a source like cotton in a field…we could look to living organisms like bacteria to produce fibres for us.”

With Hepworth, Lee started looking well beyond the box, and more to her bath tub and Hepworth’s garage. Ten years later, Biocouture was born. Based in London, the company works with scientists to bring living materials to, well, life.

What Hepworth and Lee have created is a symbiotic mix they call biomaterial. They take a product as simple as green tea, add an unrefined sugar and wait for the fermentation process to occur in a growth bath. This creates a kombucha culture, which are layers of microbial cellulose in a temperature controlled bath that in summer is literally just an outside bath.

After three days this mixture will start to bubble, showing the first sign of acidic agents starting to spin the mixture into a fermented liquid. Lee explains this as a nanofibre of pure cellulose. This grows on to form a sort of sheet on top of the bath mixture, which in three weeks will be an inch thick. This layer of ‘fabric’ will now be 90% water, so the sheet is pulled off the top of the bath mixture and dried in the sun to become a kind of leather fabric. This fabric can then be sewn together

as usual or it can be molded on a 3D object, something as normal as a mannequin or shoe mold, where the fabric quite literally sews itself together as the properties dry out and the strands combine.

Depending on the original mixture used (it is not always green tea) the leather may be light and almost see through or thicker and more flexible.

Do you have some algae in your pond or fungi on your lawn? These can be used to various effect when combined with sugary substances. The individuality of each clothing article is limitless, with Lee suggesting the use of biodegradable stylers such as oxidizing ion, vegetable dyes and indigo. This fabric is so absorbent that one denim-esque jacket that would take 16 dip dyes if it was in fact denim, is dyed with just one dip of indigo.

However this very absorbency is currently this biological fabric’s own demise. If it was raining, or the wearer was sweating at a board meeting, the fabric would suck up this moisture and biodegrade. Yes, the process of making this clothing is unparalleled in efficiency, but so is its coming apart. However, Lee believes that with the right engineers synthetic technologies can be introduced for a solution to this soluble material.

Perhaps reading this you have thought this technology is not so far fetched? It’s true. Similar biology engineers have created these materials, mostly in the vicinity of health, in particular to aid the healing of wounds.

For the fashion industry this is still a massive conceptual and industrial shift. Instead of going to the fields to extract cotton, a fabric maker will be taking to the lab. This kind of efficiency is unparalleled for this very reason. Lee sees this kind of production as more efficient as it gives the fabric maker full final control over how the fibre is formed to ascertain its exact functionality and ensure there is no waste. The process itself can also use waste product because the sugar mentioned previously is not the kind we would actually add to our own tea but sugar from agricultural waste streams. Obviously this is a lot cheaper than a

One man’s beer is another man’s treasure. Far from mouldy beer this is a raw biomaterial substance.

Biomaterial fabric being harvested from growth baths before it will be dried into a kind of leather.

cotton field too but there is a lot more patience involved in waiting for your bath to brew and the clothes are not, at this stage, warmer than wool.

Lee admits that it is hard to compare this process to other fashion practices, as it is closer to brewing beer than anything the fashion industry has seen. As Lee explains this biomaterial is more “the beginning of a journey and…part of a wider conversation around how we might harness living organisms to make materials for us”. It is a “smart addition” but not a replacement.

As a final note in an interview held by Ted Talks, Lee re-affirms; “I find, increasingly, that those [biologists and engineers] are incredibly welcoming to designers who have been thinking about different aspects of science and how these might be applied”. The conversation about growing, rather than making, clothes is only just beginning. Where the conversation ends is in the hands of those that can see beyond biology and the fashion industry.

However, some very interesting bi-products will be created on the way.

By Jessica-Belle Greer

Suzanne Lee holds up some dyed biomaterial in her London Studio.

A BioSkirt by Biocouture that has been grown, dried, laser-cut and sewn.

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I 23

STUDENTprofile

Olivia Flamank Olivia Flamank is a third year fashion design student at CPIT in Christchurch.

AFTER years of soul searching the 28-yearold aspiring designer has finally found her true passion in fashion design.

Flamank’s unconventional path to fashion design began as a graphic design and art history major at Otago University, “but my heart just wasn’t in it,” she says, “so I didn’t pursue a career in that industry”. Flamank was teaching English in Turkey when she enrolled in the fashion design programme at CPIT. “I never really thought about being a fashion designer, I’ve never been a sewer and didn’t know anything about pattern making or the way garments are constructed, but I have always loved clothes,” she says.

CPIT offers work placements with prominent fashion design companies as part of their FORM exhibition, which led Flamank to gain an internship with Lonely Hearts at the beginning of the year. “I had a fantastic time with them and I learnt a lot,” she says. “I designed a ten look collection to fill the brief which was then critiqued by design assistant Anja Bucher. It was so fantastic to be given advice from an industry professional”. Flamank’s collection for Lonely Hearts Beware the Wheelers, was inspired by the 1980’s film Return to Oz. “The collection features classic silhouettes and mixed textures, which mash together to create a playful yet slightly dark aesthetic, reminiscent of 90’s grunge,” she says.

Flamank’s designs have a vintage aesthetic with a slightly modern edge, which appeal to women who

like flamboyant, eye-catching designs. “New Zealand fashion is quite conservative,” she says, “so I design for someone who likes to stand out in the crowd”.

CPIT has provided Flamank with the necessary skills needed to work in the industry. “Before starting at CPIT I had never sewn before, and I was nervous about throwing myself into fashion having no knowledge whatsoever about how a garment is put together. Now only two years later, I’m designing and producing my own collection,” she says.

Flamank encourages future students to prepare to work long hours and late nights if they want a career in the industry, “it’s not all glamour and it’s a lot of hard work, but it’s so much fun,” she says.

“It wasn’t a straight road to fashion for me but I am so happy to be here now,” she says. With less than 6 months left at CPIT, Flamank hopes to establish a successful career in the industry. “I would love to work for Lonely Hearts or Cybele because they push the boundaries of fashion and have such quirky style”. With dreams to launch her own label sometime in the future, Olivia Flamank looks destined for a career in fashion.

By Nathalie Owen

Retail Goal 2014 ONTEMPO is a successful partner in the daily battle that is Retail in the 21st Century. They supply software, advice, assistance, and programming services to many NZ based Fashion Retailers. The business has steadily grown over the past 15 years and despite the GFC (or possibly because of it), growth has spiked since 2010.

Ontempo offers and supplies four core products that cover the full retail management spectrum. These are: Ontempo Retail, the best OmniChannel RMS focused on seasonal and fashion products in particular; Ontempo Store, the best retail POS for larger businesses with high volumes and complex requirements; CommerceConnect that provides an interface between Digital Assets and web marketplaces; and Ontempo Warehouse wireless, which improves speed and accuracy and reduces cost in this part of the supply chain. Ontempo Warehouse is totally paperless and offers a significant green contribution.

But Retail is easy isn’t it? All you have to do is to buy some stock and open a store, and then as you grow you open more stores. This naïve view has shuttered many high street stores and shattered many lifestyle dreams.

Retail is detail and when the customer can get any product you sell (or a close equivalent) online, for less money and delivered right to the door, then Retail is difficult. That is not to say it is impossible but it is essential that the mix is completely right.

It starts with buying – buying the right product, at the right price, for

24 I July 2014

each store’s customer group, and when the customer wants to buy it.

Getting this mix right is the key to retaining or improving your margin and selling through at retail. You need skills and vision to be a champion buyer.

Once you have bought you need a system that will ensure you deliver the other elements in the mix. Fashion goods are especially difficult. There is a low volume of any one size and colour for any single style. Then you need to spread that across your stores to match the customer size profile for each one. Everyone wants a webshop. This only adds to the burden. If you can’t deliver what you promise you will quickly lose customers, in store and at the website.

The retail goal in 2014 is to make an individual and valued offer to each prospective customer. In the main this is based on email and mobile apps, website behaviour and data mining. It is very new and of uncertain value at present. Ontempo customers are in a better place as they can make an offer based on both actual purchases over time (am I an early season full price fashionable shopper or do I wait for a bargain). This is not necessarily what the customer will tell you. In the store there is a range of product and helpful staff who can direct the customer to alternatives that meet the fashionability size and colour preferences. If this can’t be met instore, Ontempo supports an offer based on endless aisle, alternative store stock, click & collect options. Mobile apps and instore devices are being added to the mix.

CLASSIFIEDS

Hand-crafted Artisan Textiles Unique short run silk & cotton fabrics, dyed and block printed using natural dyes

provenance.co.nz

info@provenance.co.nz

POP-UP SHOP AVAILABLE. Main Devon Street, New Plymouth.

200 sq. metres, large window display.

Excellent location. Power available.

Cheap rent. Short and long term lease also available.

Enquiries to JACKIE - Phone 0274 455805 or email jackie.shera@xtra.co.nz

The Tailors Collection

Made in New Zealand for New Zealand Sizes

SINCE 2001

New Zealand Clothing Manufactures

400 Colors always available For 100% Spun Polyester Sewing Thread • 120 x 5,000m GOOD QUALITY • COMPETITIVE PRICE Call us to get free sample

DAVID IMPORT LIMITED Ph: 09 849 4008 Fax: 09 849 5505 47B Onehunga Mall, Onehunga, Auckland Email: davidimportltd@gmail.com

Ph: 09 828 5206

www.purfex.com

BOOK NOW

CONTACT SARAH 09 304 0142 EXT 702 OR SARAH@ REVIEWMAGS.COM

subscription form Name : _________________________________________________________Address: __________________________________________________ Phone:___________________________________ Email: _____________________________________________ I am paying by

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Fax or Mail to: APPAREL MAGAZINE PO Box 37140, Parnell, Auckland, Fax: (09) 377 2794

apparelmagazine.co.nz

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er-seaming d-hemming/Bar-tacking ool/Sport-wearHQuniforms Cutting Classified.pdf CLASSIFIEDS rations

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THE SHOPFITTING

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(OWNER OPERATOR) SPECIALISTS 444 9010 or 021 613 839

ONE ANITA

top sales person required LARGE RANGE OFEnthusiastic NEW ZEALAND for this long established company of QUALITY MADE SHOP FITTINGS GARMENT RACKS , good repute. Generous commission rate AVAILABLE EX-STOCK OR and pleasant work environment.

Must BASKET UNITS , MESH/ MANUFACTURED TO ORDER reliable vehicle, maintain existing have GRID, HANGERS, SIZE customers and seek new outlets.

Show DIVIDERS, BODY FORMS professionalism in work AND ethics, OTHER DISPLAY regular calling plan.

RACK-HIRE TERRITORY: Auckland City and ACCESSORIES Greater SERVICE AVAILABLE Auckland, Northland, Waikato, B.O.P.

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START DATE: August 2010

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CONTACT: Pieter Olivier, pieter@reviewmags.co.nz

Ph 0800 38 0800 Fax 09 636 9379 www.displays.co.nz

GUY THORNTON

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GARMENT TECHNOLOGY

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PROvidiNG: • New Zealand Professional CMT • Long standing reputable service to the apparel industry • High attention to detail • Full service – small or large runs • Quick turnaround times Providing end to end solutions for • Specialists in woven

Full CMT Service

CONTACT dAvid FREEMAN • Pattern Grading • Cutting • Making Now To diSCuSS your reQuireMeNTS • Finishing • Pressing • Ticketing

PH 09 377 1678 Providing quality for 25 years

Providing technical support to the clothing industry for the past 33 years

EMAiL: david @tamarafashions.co.nz Your label at the centre of our business

◆ Computerised Markers (Pad System) ◆ Gerber & Lectra compatible ◆ Pattern Making 100% Recyclable ◆ Pattern Grading ◆ Sampling Incredibly Durable ◆ Cutting ◆ Production Runs

Call us on 09 444 9010 Emerging designers &today boutique owners or email us at

Sales & Hire

call:

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sampling and production

Office, Factory and Showroom: 6A Henderson Place, Onehunga, Auckland

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ph 09 444 3544

Email: patternz@xtra.co.nzMAY

Wanted Stock

For new enquiries@kerilinfashions.co.nz clothing outlet We can provide friendly, helpful and personalised Designed in New Zealand for our introductory offer in Christchurch 0508 AGENCY service for all your cutting needs.

PH: 09 441 3187, FAx: 09 441 0508 243629 3190 EMAiL: guy@patternmaksamples end of www.kerilinfashions.co.nz ers.co.nz or liz@patternmakers. w w wco.nz . p uwww.patternmakers.co.nz r f o r m . n e t lines | p h 0 etc 9 579 5566 arnet www.bma.co.nz Garment Cutting Services email robyn Call Kevin on 579 8002 email arnetkevin@yahoo.com Complete Sam or andrea Complete Sampling Service Pa Patternmaking adjj@xtra.co.nz (compute (computerised & manual) Computerised Digitisin Computerised Digitising & Grading phone 03 3431681 (Card o (Card or paper patterns) Computerised Marker Making (Compatible with Pad, Gerber Accumark and Lectra) Sample cutting with Fabric Estimates Sample Making Production Runs Production Cutting

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• Garment racks, Hangers, Size dividers • Gridmesh, Basket units, Custom units • Wall systems, Slatpanel & accessories FOR HIRE: Garment racks and folding tables.

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Complete Sampling Service Patternmaking (computerised & manual) 23/04/10 Digitising 11:00 AM 23/04/10 11:00 AM Computerised & Grading (Card or paper patterns) Computerised Marker Making Fresh (Compatible with Pad, Gerber Accumark andnew Lectra)jewellery Sample cutting with Fabric Estimates Sample Making and clothing from our Production Runs Production Cutting

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house designs.

7 Moa Street, Otahuhu, Auckland 1640 Ph: 0800 38 0800 Email: info@displays.co.nz

www.displays.co.nz

26 I July 2014

For wholesale enquiries please contact us: Phone: 09 42 61275 or email sales@classicelements.co.nz or visit www.classicelements.co.nz Call the team at Ph: (09) 369 9249 or email helenh@hsr.co.nz 21D PORANA RD, WAIRAU VALLEY

CLASSIFIEDS

naJie clothing company 30 Years Manufacturing in new Zealand We cover all aspects of manufacturing the finest quality Woven garments.

FRINGE MAKER & BRAID MANUFACTURER NEW ZEALAND

New Zealands only Fringe and Braid manufacturer. Fringe and Braid for all occasions, eg. lampshades, mats, cushions, curtains, furniture trim, banners, umbrellas, bridal cars, limousines, clothing, costumes, show ribbons, arts and crafts.

CONTACT THE FRINGEMAKER

Phone: +64 (0)9 299 9141 Mob: +64 (0)21 063 0903 Fax: +64 (0)9 296 6339 3/11 Walters Road, Takanini, Auckland 2244, New Zealand Email: fringemaker@gmail.com or visit www.fringemaker.co.nz

• pattern development • Digitising/grading (p.a.D) • lay planning/marker making

• cutting fabric/fusing supply • highest quality manufacturing • pressing and finishing

Quality comes from understanding what high standards are and a strong desire to achieve these on a continuing basis.

Call us now to see how we can help with your manufacturing requirements.

ph: 07 8475990 or email: richie@najie.co.nz

RollingRacks ONLY

$130

MORE THAN JUST BIAS BINDING

+ GST + FREIGHT

FREE Ticketing*

www.generalproducts.co.nz Contact PHILIP TANNER philip@generalproducts.co.nz or 09 3735762

C•O•N•F•E•R•E•N•C•E 12-14 September 2014 Rydges Hotel, Wellington, NZ Keynote speaker: Keisuke (Ken) Uchikoshi U.S. President, Sankosha Co. Ltd For enquiries about tradestands and/or registration please contact: belinda@textilecare.co.nz

Order online or by phone, quote ‘Apparel08’ to receive this discount. * Valid for a limited time only. Conditions apply.

www.surestyle.co.nz

0800 474 358

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0508 AGENCY 0508 243629 www.bma.co.nz

Specialist manufacturer of fabric labels.

We supply printed, woven and sash labels.

CONTACT US for all your labelling and ribbon printing requirements.

T: 0800 365 250 E: info@foilprint.co.nz www.foilprint.co.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

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