Apparel Magazine // July 2015

$ 9.00

JULY 2015 I VOL 48 I NO 7

SHINY NEW THING pg 20

16 27

04 14

NEWS

RADAR

COLOUR TRENDING THE INDUSTRY ACCORDING TO . . .

apparelmagazine.co.nz

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FASHIONABLE

EDITOR’S letter SNEAKERNOMICS

January 2014 saw Chanel and Dior putting sneakers on models in haute couture runway shows and ruled the runway for the following several seasons. Not only did Chanel embrace the trend during a Spring show with a knee-high varietal, Alexander Wang created an entire sneaker-themed collection including purses that were rubber-soled.

Working women could finally get away with wearing Converse sneakers at the office and semi-retire the skyhigh heels.

The whole activewear category is currently in a boom and brands have crossed over sportswear and casual lines.

Rapper-turned-designer Kanye West debuted his collection for Adidas

the NUMBERS . . .

I Love Ugly have the largest online audience (242,447 followers) in NZ for fashion.

at New York Fashion Week that had more than a few haters, but West is laughing all the way to the bank.

His Yeezy Boost 350 sneakers that originally retailed for US$200 a pair, have a new price tag of upwards of US$10,000 on eBay after selling out in just 15 minutes.

A pair three times the original price (US$700) are the least expensive pair on the bidding site, but it all depends on the size you are after.

The Kardashian clan have all been snapped wearing the sneaker in support of Kim’s husband.

Needless to say the sneaker trend and the celebrity/ brand collaborations won’t be leaving the stylish streets anytime soon, I am sure that it will be a relief for consumers and retailers alike to see the more traditional boots and pumps back on the runways in the coming months.

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

ON THE COVER: ORIGINALS BY JEREMY SCOTT Firebird Tracktop and Pants in Floral Blue ADIDAS ORIGINALS Duffel Perforated in White/Green ADIDAS Stan Smith

Hannah Garner

ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DESIGNER

Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com

2 I July 2015

Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com

ELECTRONIC TEXTILES: SMART FABRICS AND WEARABLE TECHNOLOGY

Edited by Tilak Dias A three part authoritative guide on electronic textiles this key reference title covers fibres, yarns and fabrics the create wearable sensors, embroidered antennas and more. Expert analysis of design and integration moves to commercial applications including communication, sport and healthcare.

18% of worldwide

e-retailers post 100500 packages a day.

71% e-retailers are not considering sameday delivery (currently only 8% offer same-day delivery).

Ecoya was the fastest growing beauty page in NZ last month with 2169 new followers.

Boohoo.com is listed seventh in NZ with 112,018 followers.

PUBLISHER Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com EDITOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Jessica-Belle Greer - jessica@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL ASSITANT Thomas Fowler - tommie@reviewmags.com

READS

PHOTOGRAPHER CIRCULATION/ADMIN

Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com

ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.

DIOR COUTURE

by Ingrid Sischy One of the most revered names in fashion, Dior, comprises a portfolio of portraits over the entire era of Christian Dior haute couture. Photographed

by Patrick Demarchelier of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and more, the tome is a dream to devour.

DENIM: MANUFACTURE, FINISHING AND APPLICATIONS

Edited by Roshan Paul This go to denim guide and authentic reference book covers denim aspects from jean washing to environmental impacts. The history and social influence of denim are included in relevance to the apparel industry from experts the world over.

news

RIHANNA FOR STANCE

DEPP FACE OF CHANEL

Singer Rihanna has been named contributing creative director as part of a three-year deal with sock company Stance. Not only will she design socks and lead campaigns for the California based company she will also become one of the brand’s ambassadors joining the likes of NBA All-Star Allen Iverson and artist Langley Fox Hemingway. Despite her first collection for the brand not released until later this year, two styles have been released on the company’s website. “I’ve had a great relationship with Stance for a long time and I am happy to be working with them on such a fun and creative project,” said Rihanna.

The women’s division makes up between 20-25 percent of total sales after only being introduced in 2012, shortly after the men’s business. Being the fastest-growing group in the company the new collection with Rihanna will see a thigh-high style introduced, a first for Stance. “She creatively pushes the boundaries in everything she does,” said Candy Harris, senior vice president of Stance’s women’s division.

“It’s nice to work with out-of the box ideas for our brand.”

Daughter of actor Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis, Lily-Rose Depp has been named the newest ambassador for Chanel. An aspiring actress herself, the 16-year-old was recently seen at the brand’s Haute Couture show in Paris with her mother who has worked with Chanel since 1990.

“Lily-Rose is stunning, she is a young girl from a new generation with all the qualities of a star,” said Karl Largerfeld.

As well as being a brand ambassador, Depp will be the global face of the latest Pearl-eyewear collection by Chanel.

ELLIS AND FRIENDS ONLINE SUCCESS

Lifestyle brand Ellis and Friends have been open just over a month and have had a great response from supporters. Visitors to their social media and website has seen rapid growth. With an 18-27-age focus customers love the selection of pieces they carry as they are simple but versatile and fun.

“Every piece we choose to carry begins as an item we absolutely love and essentially is a piece we want to share with our friends,” said owner Ellis Hong.

“Playing on this ‘friends’ idea is a major part of how our brand works. We want to be known as girls who love seeing how others dress, finding inspiration and not just as a store generating sales.”

NZFW ANNOUNCE NEW COMPETITION In collaboration with HITO – the Hair and Beauty Industry Training Organisation – New Zealand Fashion Week has announced a new competition engineered to help young creative kiwis get a foot in the door.

“Creating opportunities for emerging talent in the fashion industry is important to NZFW. Every year we look for ways to support new designers and we created a similar competition in 2010,” said NZFW Managing Director Dame Pieter Stewart.

NZFW and HITO are looking for five finalists from across NZ in each of the five categories of Hair/Barbering, Makeup Artist, Fashion Stylist, Female and Male Model. Entries are open to up and coming talent. In the hair category this includes those who have less than two years in an apprenticeship or working in a salon, or those completely new to the industry.

Those who have completed a full time course are not eligible. Entrants in the other categories are open to anyone that has not been involved in New Zealand Fashion Week in any capacity.

As part of the HITO Hot New Talent competition the top 15 finalists will be paired with an industry leader

from their chosen profession and will work with them as an intern for at least three months following NZFW. “We know this concept works, with all the winners from our 2010 talent competition going on to work in their chosen industry.

We want talented kiwis who think they have what it takes to put themselves on the line and get involved,” said NZFW brand manager Myken Stewart.

Contact us now to discuss your needs.

Phone: +64 9 255 2560 I Mobile: 021 769 560 Email: john@dsl.co.nz I www.dsl.co.nz

4 I July 2015

Let us help you make the best match.

Call JACQUI 09 309 5020 or visit www.nzfashiontech.ac.nz

news

REEF FOR LEE COLLECTION

Surfwear brand Reef has teamed up with denim company Lee for a sevenpiece men’s capsule collection called Reef X.H.D Lee Shelter Supply Collection.

Launching in October, the limited edition line will merge the surf aesthetic of Reef with the classic American heritage of Lee. Styles included in the range are a Henley, a workshirt, a quilted vest, a shawl-collar fleece sweater, denim and canvas pants and a shelter bag.

“This collection is designed for the person who appreciates heritage and style,” said Reef’s director of apparel design and merchandise.

“It plays on the utilitarian perspective and a great combination of brands, both with their strong heritage.”

AMERICAN APPAREL CLOSING STORES

In an on going battle with former founder and CEO, Dov Charney, the Los Angeles based fashion giant American Apparel said it plans to cut spending by $US30 million over the next 18 months.

To implement the cuts, officials announced they would close an undefined number of under preforming retail locations. The company, which makes its own clothing in downtown LA had 239 stores in 20 countries, including 135 in the United States at the end of March but has suffered devastating losses in a sales decline that began in 2010. Despite the announcement, plans to resign an autumn line for both women and men are still underway.

“The cuts are a necessary step to help American Apparel adapt to headwinds in the retail industry, preserve jobs for the overwhelming majority of our 10,000 employees and return the business to long term profitability,” said recently appointed CEO, Paula Schneider.

JOINT VENTURE

Kerry Logistics Oceania Ltd is the creation of a joint venture between the previously Lead Logistics Ltd, a locally owned logistics provider and Kerry Logistics Network Ltd, a publicly listed multinational logistics provider. This joint venture saw both companies taking a stake in each other’s business to amalgamate into an Australasian regional network.

Combining the knowledge and expertise of local staff, management and local ownership, Kerry Logistics Oceania has the strength of a leading global network that continues to provide a high level of

personalised service, placing it in a strong position in the Australasian market.

Customers are provided with a unique proposition that is unrivalled in the market place, with the company offering a comprehensive range of services covering airfreight, ocean freight, customs brokerage and contract logistics.

As a leading logistics provider throughout Asia with a significant investment in contract logistics and transportation services, the company provides a number of value added services at origin. Pick and

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6 I July 2015

TRA ON DE LY

pack, storage, labeling, ticketing, QC and buyers consolidation services are just some of these.

As sourcing patterns across Asia are constantly changing, Kerry Logistics trucking services presents customers with a range of hubbing and consolidation options based on their specific sourcing patterns.

Managing both local and international apparel businesses Kerry Logistics have developed a number of services that are specifically designed to meet the needs of customers in the apparel and footwear sector.

news

LORNA JANE JOB UNDER FIRE

WESTFIELD SEARCH FOR YOUNG STYLIST

For the first time, Scentre Group has launched a nationwide search for a young stylist to join its team of fashion experts.

The winner of New Zealand’s Young Budding Stylist competition will learn the ropes and make a kick-start into the New Zealand fashion industry, showcasing their talents in conjunction with leading stylists Stephanie Rumble, Luke Bettesworth and Leonie Barlow for 12 months. They will also receive the opportunity to style their own wardrobe with $5,000 worth of Westfield Gift Cards.

“We’re so excited to give a young, keen fashion enthusiast the opportunity to work alongside some of the top fashion stylists in the country,” said Westfield national promotions manager, Rochelle Gray.

“The opportunity has the potential to make one aspiring fashion enthusiast realise their greatest career goals. We hope this encourages more young Kiwis to follow their fashion dreams and be inspired by learning from others.”

To qualify, entrants must be a New Zealand citizen between the age of 16 and 24, with entries open until 31 July.

Sportswear designer Lorna Jane Clarkson has received overwhelming negative feedback surrounding a job advertisement that required the role to be filled by a specific sized woman.

The receptionist role included general office management requirements, but was coupled with a role as a fit model, meaning the successful applicant would need to fill the Lorna Jane size small measurements. The ad provoked a series of negative responses, saying the ad was undermining the confidence in diverse, yet healthy, female bodies.

Clarkson responded to the scandal during a breakfast interview, explaining that the job was misunderstood and the scandal has been blown out of proportion.

“I feel like they just read it and then someone made a comment and then they were reading the comments rather than actually taking the time to read the job description,” said Clarkson.

KERR ANNOUNCES JEWELLERY LINE Following the news of her retirement from Victoria’s Secret, model and businesswoman Miranda Kerr has announced a new personally designed jewellery line.

The line is designed in cooperation with luxury brand Swarovski, whom she’s been modelling for since 2013. “I wanted it to be fine, and delicate and have meaning, and hopefully, inspiration,” Kerr told Elle magazine. Kerr’s other business ventures include cosmetics brand Kora Organics, a china collection with Royal Albert and two self-help books. The jewellery goes on sale July 27 and prices start at $69 (NZ$75).

UNPACKED, PRESSED, REPAIRED, WAREHOUSED, DELIVERED & LOVED. C&F Garment Management offers a truly seamless service to remove cost and complexity from your supply chain. You’ll find we have an expert eye for detail, a smart head for logistics and a huge heart for fashion.

We would love to show what we could do for you. From pressing an entire shipment and warehousing your new season’s lines, to sewing on a single button. We invite you to come and see for yourself.

www.candf.co.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

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menswear news

ALCHEMY EQUIPMENT LAUNCHES RANGE

New Zealand performance driven apparel and luggage brand Alchemy Equipment, will show its newly developed Spring/Summer 16 range for the first time in Europe and the US at the OutDoor trade-show in Friedrichshafen, Germany, Outdoor Retailer in Salt Lake City and capsule in Las Vegas this year.

“The overwhelming positive feedback that we have received at the Winter OR and ISPO with our AW15 range encouraged us to develop a full summer range,” said Frank Spiewack, VP global sales and marketing. “Our concept of performance driven style that couples the DNA of technical outdoor products with a refined, tailored finish offers a great platform for a sophisticated, lightweight and functional summer range targeted at the smart casual and business traveler.”

Founder, Campbell Junor is the former co-owner and creative director of Macpac and previously head of design at Kathmandu. Alchemy Equipment has already been picked up by leading retailers in NZ, USA, Germany, France and Switzerland and is also distributed in Japan, Taiwan and Korea.

KIMBER ARRIVES IN NZ

Menswear tailors and retail store Gubb & Mackie have welcomed the arrival of a new range of pocket-square designs by British-born designer Christian Kimber.

His designs have a distinct sensibility, inspired by a vision to produce classically constructed accessories with a neoteric twist. Each item in the collection is carefully crafted by the finest in their field from around the world.

MENSWEARnews TRUMP CUT BY MACY’S

America’s largest department-store chain has cut ties with Donald Trump following his remarks about Mexican immigrants that caused uproar. The company has decided to phase out its Trump menswear collection that it has stocked since 2004.After announcing his run for president, Trump quickly came under fire when he said Mexicans bring drugs and crime into the US and called immigrants “rapists”. “We are disappointed and distressed by recent remarks about immigrants from Mexico,” Macy’s said in a statement. “We do not believe the disparaging characterisations portray an accurate picture of the many Mexicans, Mexican Americans and Latinos who have made so many valuable contributions to the success of our nation.”

STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB

Canadian singer/songwriter Abel Tesfaye (better known by his stage name The Weeknd) wore Stolen Girlfriends Club Panther Bomber Jacket during a guest appearance at Taylor Swift’s 1989 tour visit at the massive MetLife Stadium in East Rutherford, New Jersey that also saw a surprise performance by NZ’s own Lorde.

HAPPY SOCKS X BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB Sock brand Happy Socks has teamed up with streetwear brand Billionaire Boys Club to create a line of unisex socks and men’s underwear that will retail in both brands’ stores and e-commerce sites. Signature patterns from Billionaire Boys Club will be featured on three sock styles including Starfield, Diamond and Dollar and Classic Helmet that has been designed

by Japanese artist Sk8thing.

The three styles will also feature throughout the underwear collection of men’s briefs and boxer briefs.

SAM SMITH FOR BALENCIAGA HUGO BOSS TO OPEN IN AUCKLAND

Global leader in luxury fashion, Hugo Boss is known worldwide for distinctive, pioneering fashion statements. With a presence in over 100 countries through its brands BOSS, HUGO, BOSS Orange and BOSS Green, the name HUGO BOSS prides itself on outstanding design and high-quality products.

Within Australia and New Zealand, HUGO BOSS is present in over 40 store locations with the addition of a dedicated Auckland store come September. The store will house menswear to start and the brand has plans to expand the store to two levels to incorporate the womenswear category.

8 I July 2015

Balenciaga designer Alexander Wang has recruited musician Sam Smith to collaborate on the new fall/ winter menswear collection. “I am so honoured and ecstatic to announce my collaboration with Balenciaga on the upcoming FW15 Menswear collection,” said Smith in a social media post. Despite not providing many details, the collection will be revealed soon and it has been disclosed by a source that although he will not be designing the clothes, he will appear in the campaign imagery.

MARWOOD AT CRANE BROTHERS Since its foundation in 2010, Marwood have been making a name for themselves as one of Britain’s most forward thinking neckwear merchants. Strong graphic designs and the incorporation of traditional British lace and textiles give Marwood’s neckwear a sense of presence and ceremony, and has made the brand highly desirable for wedding and formal. Available exclusively through Crane Brothers, all Marwood neckwear is hand-made in the UK. The range at Crane Brothers includes five tie styles and two bowtie styles.

POP-UP RETAIL GOES MOBILE

Luxury French loafer brand is set to launch its Tour de Galet, a mobile pop-up store that will travel around the USA. Housed in a Citröen H-Van from the 1940’s, the store will stock the brand’s signature loafers in an interactive environment.

“We are excited to introduce Tour de Galet to the Hamptons, particularly as we have developed a strong clientele along the East Coast,” said co-founder Jonathan Horemans. “Tour de Galet is a natural extension of the interactive customer experience that we strive for and encompasses the element of discovery that characterises our brand.” Despite not having any stores in the US currently, the brand has grown in popularity.

PARISIAN X LIBERTY

menswear news

ARMANI LEGACY MENSWEAR

Having recently celebrated 40 years in the business alongside his 80th birthday, it would seem by his latest collection that Giorgio Armani is in a more reflective mood. “The Armani universe, clearly and concisely expresses a mindset that focuses on individuality and the creation of a selfsufficient style that doesn’t take notice of trends,” said notes distributed at the Milan runway show.

“Signature fashion expresses the mindset of a free spirit that rejects all fake rules set by a media consensus.” The collection showed was timeless featuring relaxed tailoring, overcoats that were silky and fluid in muted tones. Waistcoats seen through cardigans and relaxed blazers paired with slouchy trousers highlighted the shapes Armani customers have grown to love.

Iconic New Zealand tie and belt maker Parisian is soon to launch its own brand’s third collection of ties, bows and pocket squares with London’s Liberty Art fabrics. Growing in size with each season, the collection has sold through quickly at retail. Unique, iconic and full of colour, this season’s handpicked collection ranges from classic florals from the Liberty archive to abstract designs with a modernist twist, from the latest release. The sell in period will be short and focussed so expressions of interest in stocking this coveted collection should be directed to Parisian. Contact Dennis at Parisian 09 3034129 or dennis@parisian.co.nz

THE RIGHT SHADE BELT

Getting the right shade for a tan leather belt is constantly on the watchlist, but never has it been so important. Parisian has worked together with its tanners to develop a new colour for its Pierre Cardin Crew belt. Since its launch, this simple design has been the mainstay of the Pierre Cardin belt collection. The new tan combines the right honey base tone along with a depth of other richer highlights, so it has versatility in complementing the variety of shoes on the market. A dark polished edge emphasises these highlights even further. The semi gloss patina to the leather and the satin-brushed nickel buckle add elegance to the simplicity of the Crew’s cut.

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2/7/15 5:18 pm

YEEZY 350 SELLS AT 50 TIMES RETAIL PRICE

Following the success of his previous footwear design, Kanye West launched the new Yeezy 350 sneaker to worldwide success.Shattering records, the Yeezy 350s sold out in stores within 15 minutes, priced at only $200, but are now selling online through eBay at prices up to $10,000.

LAUPER RELEASES SHOE LINE

Designed in conjunction with footwear retailer, Make A Difference Every Day (M4D3), Cyndi Lauper has released a line of sneakers to help support the LGBT community. The collaboration is one of the many efforts Lauper and her True Colors Fund have made to help prevent and reduce youth LGBT homelessness.

“Designing this collection in collaboration with M4D3 has given me an opportunity to support our work at the True Colors Fund through another one of my passions—shoes!,” said Lauper. M4D3 have collaborated with Mo’ne Davis, PETA and Frida Pinto on a range of social issues including disaster relief in Nepal and increasing female youth poverty.

“When I learned from Cyndi that LGBT youth represent up to 40 percent of all homeless youth in North America— young people who have been pushed onto the streets, simply for being true to who they are on the inside—we wanted to get involved in the great work of True Colors,” said Steve Reynolds, founder, M4D3. “This shoe collection will not only benefit the True Colors Fund, but it will also allow advocates to visibly show their support and literally stand in what they stand for, which is equality for all.”

FOOTWEARnews MOUNTFORDS SOLD The Munro Family Group has acquired Victoria-based footwear chain Mountfords Shoes just months after purchasing the Wanted Shoes chain. This acquisition sees the Munro Family Group add Mountfords to its growing line up of footwear brands including Gamins, Midas, Mollini, I Love Billy, Django & Juliette, Cinori Shoes, and Australia’s largest online footwear retailer, Styletread. “When making the decision to acquire a new company we consider factors such as turnover, profitability, how much of the product fits into our existing portfolio, and how much further we can take it. We also look at the potential for the product to fit into our existing companies to boost our offering across the board,” said Bill Munro. “Mountfords are very highly regarded in the industry and come with a strong history behind them. We are looking to build on this and develop the brand by expanding it nationally pretty quickly.”

DISNEY X VANS

The recently announced collaboration between Disney and Vans will be available late July. Sharing common ground rooted deep in South Carolina, the new collection is designed for the young at heart looking to maximise on their favourite Disney memories. The collection features iconic Disney characters such as Mickey Mouse, Minnie Mouse, Donald Duck, Pluto, Goofy and Winnie the Pooh across the classic range of Vans footwear and extends further into Vans apparel and accessories. Designed for all ages, the capsule includes child sizes alongside regular sizing options.

MOBILE ECOMMERCE IS THE NEXT BIG THING

The internet has redefined what retail is; the channels through which consumers can engage with and purchase retailer’s products has never been more diverse.

Today, retail success means reaching consumers wherever they are, on whatever device they may be using.

Ecommerce adoption among retailers in the apparel industry is growing at breakneck speed, faster than any other industry in fact. Ecommerce sales now account for 17% of all apparel sales. In 2014 we saw more apparel merchants than ever embrace omnichannel retailing to enrich their customers shopping experience and bridge the gap between offline and digital channels. Consumers are no longer discriminating between mobile and desktop when it comes to online shopping.

Mobile devices now account for 50% of all ecommerce traffic. 33% of ecommerce sales in 2014 were completed using a mobile device, more impressive than that, is the fact that this was just 23% in 2013.

Put simply, mobile shopping is going to be huge, it is growing 3 times faster than traditional desktop based ecommerce, and as was the case with desktop ecommerce, early adopters will be poised to gain valuable customers and market share. This is what you need to know about mobile ecommerce, and how to prepare your retail offering accordingly.

TAKE A MOBILE FIRST APPROACH

In order to understand how to make a good user experience across mobile, you need to understand the “responsive” relationship between the desktop and mobile versions of your website. Taking a desktop website design then resizing and rearranging elements from it onto the mobile version is typically how this is approached. This approach is cost effective and arguably better than nothing, but for ecommerce purposes it is fundamentally flawed.

Mobile ecommerce needs to be approached using a mobile first approach, with a focus on creating the best possible user experience, using a separate mobile theme independant from the your desktop website. 61% of customers have a better opinion of brands when they offer a good mobile experience, 41% of customers have turned to a competitor’s site after a bad mobile experience. Your mobile ecommerce offering should be specifically fit for purpose in order to achieve comparable conversion rates to your desktop site.

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CHOOSE THE RIGHT TECHNOLOGY

Modern website development tools such as Angular and React now means retailers can create great shopping experiences across a mobile web browser. Your mobile website should be fast, smooth and snappy in response to customer input. If the customer feels like they are sacrificing their shopping experience by using their mobile phone vs their computer, then the conversion rates between desktop and mobile ecommerce are going to be drastically lower. With mobile traffic now over 50% of all ecommerce traffic you can’t afford to be sacrificing conversion rates because of a bad user experience.

DIGITAL ISN’T JUST ABOUT ECOMMERCE SALES

If you are a multi-channel retailer offering both ecommerce and in-store channels, then you need to realise digital doesn’t just drive ecommerce, it gets people in store.

And this digital influence doesn’t stop at the entrance to your store - smartphones are now used as a personal shopping assistant for people once they are inside your physical stores. 71% of shoppers who use smartphones for research in-store say that it’s become an important part of their shopping experience. Digital now touches every step in the customer journey, and the smartphone is driving this. Modern retailers need to understand that more and more consumers are omni-channel shoppers who purchase through both online and in-store channels, across a variety of devices. These omni-channel shoppers present a dramatic shift in how we need to think about retail, but it is a change that comes with huge opportunity for those merchants who get it right.

MARK HURLEY www.littlegiant.co.nz

behind the business

HAIRWAYS

Hairdressing is the next career step for fashion focused individuals looking to go far in the industry.

Jessica Taylor, a graduate of Servilles Academy and a Colour Specialist at Servilles Newmarket, talks to Apparel about how her skills in hair are getting her closer to her fashion career dreams. Jessica Taylor did not consider herself to be very academic while at high school but she was creative and always loved hair and fashion. The way a person can look so different and feel so much better by changing their hair fascinated her. This fascination turned into a passion for Taylor when she studied at Servilles Academy. She graduated as dux in both the 34 week hairdressing level 4 graduate certificate and foundation courses.

“I knew Servilles Academy had a great reputation and standard for incredible hairdressing and I wanted to pursue my dream with the best. It has some of the most talented and creative stylists in the business,” said Taylor. Learning an all round understanding of hair and fashion, Taylor has worked on creative photoshoots and fashion shows and discovered extra opportunities offered exclusively at Servilles Academy, such as working for X-Factor New Zealand and New Zealand Fashion Week.

Jessica now takes this creative energy to high profile fashion shoots where she is consistently invited to be the hair stylist for leading magazines, websites and music videos. This work is a career highlight for her as she is extremely passionate about working together with other experts in their field to create fantastic imagery.

As a Colour Specialist at Servilles Newmarket, Taylor is continuing her hairdressing training and working towards becoming qualified by completing

the commercial component of the NZQA certificate in hairdressing. Taylor’s ambitious career goal is to work overseas with the big fashion houses in New York and London to get a taste of the ‘big fashion world’.

With fashion and hair being so closely linked, a lot of designers need hair stylists to link the models’ hair with the label’s style to properly portray the look.

“Vivienne Westwood’s hair styling is a big, crazy, out-there look and quite experimental whereas Dolce & Gabbana has a classic Spanish look that is more structured. Chanel is also classic, but has its own twist to make it unique,” explained Taylor. Studying and working for Servilles has honed Taylor’s eye for hair and fashion trends. The latest looks she has noticed are wet-look and slicked back hairstyles for photo shoots and simplified classic looks for red carpets. Hair styles now gravitate between soft and structured or edgy and grunge, depending on the fashion style.

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beauty news

WATERHOUSE FOR REDKEN

AESOP OPENS IN BERLIN

After entering Germany in 2013, the Australian natural cosmetics company has now opened it’s sixth German store, and its second in Berlin. The 93-square-metre space was loosely inspired by neighbouring theatres including Berliner Festspiele and Theatre des Westens. Snøhetta is the Norwegian architecture company behind the fit out who also created the company’s 100th store in Oslo in December 2014.

“We’re so passionate about the design and each space is a new story for us,” said Jeanne Casimir, Aesop marketing coordinator, France. Also at the store opening, which was perfectly timed during Berlin’s fashion week, the brand also previewed its Blue Chamomile Hydrating Masque that can be used as an overnight treatment cream and is set to launch in October, as well as a new fragrance, Tacit, which will hit counters in September.

Model and actress Suki Waterhouse has been announced as Redken’s newest face and will join the likes of Lea T and Soo Joo Park.

Diamond Oil Glow Dry will be the first appearance for Waterhouse who will feature throughout the print and digital campaigns. “Suki is known for her chic style and effortless cool,” said Shane Wolf, global general manager of Redken 5th Avenue.

“She’s striking, multitalented and dynamic, bringing a great energy to Redken.”

PORT NAMED AMBASSADOR

Whitney Port has been named ambassador for professional hair-care brand Wella Professionals.

The reality show star, author and designer will not only do personal appearances on behalf of the brand but also engage with brand’s fans on social media platforms. “As someone who is a true believer in celebrating unique style and vision, I am always searching for new products that allow me to create looks that reflect my personality,” said Port.

LAUDER ADDS BLOGGER AMBASSADORS Two of Estée Lauder’s leading brands have enlisted bloggers to beef up its ambassador ranks to increase the brands’ relevance to the millennial demographic.

Irene Kim has been appointed as Estée Lauder’s global beauty contributor, while Clinique has taken on bloggers Tavi Gevinson and Margaret Zhang, and socialite-entrepreneur Hannah Bronfman.

BEAUTYnews

CLINIQUE #FACEFORWARD LAUNCH

Iconic beauty brand Clinique has officially launched #faceforward, a new global campaign supporting its 3-Step-System, that reflects the spirit of the individual, celebrates accomplishment and most importantly, ignites a movement for others to be inspired.

The campaign sets out to encourage women to look to toward the future, set goals and achieve their aspirations and has launched with three millennial ambassadors, Tavi Gevinson, Hannah Bronfman and Margaret Zhang.

BEIERSDORF VS. UNILEVER

Germany’s Federal Supreme Court has reversed a decision the Federal Patent Court made in 2013 denying Nivea Blue (part of Beiersdorf AG) the status of a registered colour trademark. The case will resume at a later date in the Munich-based patent court after a new hearing was ordered.

This comes as a response to a case brought by Unilever, which uses blue on its soap and care packaging for Dove products, the court had ruled that if three out of four consumers associated the colour blue only with that brand or its product could it be restricted as a trademark. Only just over 50 percent of respondents said they associated the colour blue with Nivea.

“Nivea Blue’s wide use over a long period and across the brand portfolio has ensured that consumers around the world associate the characteristic blue with the absolute highest skin-care competence,” said board member Ralph Gusko.

“For this reason, we will spare no efforts in protecting the iconic colour image as well as all other brand and design rights.”

12 I July 2015

VENICE COLLECTION FOR OPI

Nail polish company, OPI has introduced its new fall collection that takes inspiration from Venice. The collection features colour titles like St Mark’s The Spot and My Gondola or Yours among the 12 shades.

Available worldwide in September, the palette includes nudes, striking corals, dramatic darks and metallic shades that are also available in the gel polish. “Today, the collection is inspired by a man-made beauty, the art of a unique city,” said Simona Mongano, marketing director of colour at parent company Coty Italia.

Previous collections have drawn inspiration from Brazil and Hawaii. “The arrival of the collections for Christmas is another important moment, where women like to try out the different,” she said. “There are the holidays, the parties and there will be a collection dedicated to Christmas with a very sparkling finish.”

editd

SPRING ‘16 MENSWEAR TRENDS & WHY THEY’LL WORK

By Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITD

While womenswear may be having a sleek and androgynous moment, last week’s London Collections: Men proved that menswear has a unique character all unto itself, and an interesting one at that. Three years in, the event has grown from 46 showing designers in 2012 to 77 this year. And with that increased visibility has come a stronger prediction of where menswear is headed in 2016. So having said that, let’s waste no time.

Here are the top 5 trends we saw at LCM.

1. THE BOMBER IS BACK

The bomber jacket was invited to more shows at LCM than any editor or celebrity. It was almost ubiquitous and shone prominently on the runways of Alexander McQueen, Christopher Raeburn and Christopher Kane, as well as on those of more experimental designers like Katie Eary, Astrid Anderson and Oliver Spencer. Its forms ran the full creative circle of interpretation, from loud prints to Chinoiserie jacquards, piped panels, suede and leather in bold colors and all the way back to traditional, neutral shades.

The Harrington jacket, similar to the bomber but with that signature collar, was popular too.

This style, overtly retro at times (think aviation or Teddy Boy finishes), was ideal in more fashion-forward ranges. Its classic shape and collar however won’t curb its appeal to the older menswear shopper either. The style received Fall ’15 backing from the likes of Timo Weiland, Hérmes and Patrik Ervell. That alone should be enough to see it leading the pack come next spring.

Why it works: Despite its strong retail presence, this trend’s star is still rising: the number of bomber jackets arriving on the US and UK markets in Spring ’15 grew 128% compared to the year before. And its sales have stayed strong through early summer. Just last month, the bomber jacket sold well for a broad range of brands, including Cos, River Island and Rick Owens.

Bomber jackets sit at some imagined intersection of the 50s and 90s trends currently ruling the menswear industry. They have an ability to look contemporary yet retain some throwback nods. They’re able to fit into streetwear without being too ‘cool’, and because they’ve been successful across a variety of price points in previous seasons, the industry is now primed to see bombers in almost any collection.

As for timing, data shows that January-March is the most popular time to drop new bomber styles into stores.

4. JOG ON

Berthold, Coach and Sean Suen. Think the most practical of holiday-dad footwear, sometimes worn with socks. Also included was the iconic pool slider, rendered a little more quirkily, in fur

by Coach.

Commercially speaking, these should hit stores as Birkenstock-style shoes and flat-bed sandals.

Men, expect to be embracing the ease of a velcro flat in no time!

Why it works: This style of sandal sold well in Spring ’15 for Fendi, Louis Vuitton, Nike, Lemaire and, of course, Birkenstock. In that season alone it grew its market presence by 85% compared to Spring ’14. But, reality check: we can’t pretend flat sandals are the leading men’s footwear trend. There are far more sneakers on the market, and that’s not going to change. But it’s important that retailers stock into this newer summer shape for Spring ’16. Add to that the knowledge that the flat sandal currently has lower discounting rates than sneakers, and you’re onto a winner early in its trend lifespan.

3. PRINT SENSATIONS

Hot off the sofas: sweatpants. Designers including Burberry, Astrid Anderson and Christopher Raeburn presented them for Spring ’16. Burberry’s were muted caramel cashmere and worn with tasseled slippers, while Astrid Anderson’s high-shine and popper-sided take reigned at the other end of the spectrum.

Thanks to additional backing from Christopher Shannon and Vivienne Westwood, Fall ’15 will steer this trend into the new year.

Why it works: Jogging bottoms and sweatpants saw a mammoth 160% increase in new products arriving in stores for Spring ’15. They sold well for McQ, Armani Jeans, Topman, ASOS and Forever 21 Men. Also interesting is that 42% of joggers currently in stock are in the luxury and premium markets – unusual for a loungewear basic and a certain sign their trend lifespan stretches well beyond Spring ’16. Currently, 44% of jogging bottoms on the market are black and 24% are grey. There’s also a small amount of maroon and khaki present. Retailers could expand upon this palette and introduce print to bring newness to Spring ’16.

5. THE UNEXPECTED

Featured on the runways of Katie Eary, Coach, Sibling and James Long, bold prints were another strong presence. Psychedelic swirls, degradé and clashing colors made sure no one missed this trend foreshadowing a colourful Spring ’16. Prints danced their way across every type of garment, clashing on outerwear, working their way into allover use on tops, bottoms, and even featuring on footwear. Retailers needn’t be shy.

Why it works: The retail market is ready for more prints. Spring ’15 saw floral prints grow 111% while tropical prints did the same by 98%.

Despite already being a menswear staple, retailers found room to grow stripes by 102%. This is a great sign that the menswear customer is looking for greater surface interest in apparel.

Stripes were also menswear’s most communicated print trend in Spring ’15, but April 2015 saw more floral prints arriving than stripes. With men ready to branch out into prints, retailers should stoke the flames of interest next spring by pushing their strongest prints in communications.

Many designers at LCM chose fabrics, prints, shapes and colors uncommon in menswear for the runway. Christopher Raeburn showed kilt-skirts, Astrid Anderson floral prints on sportswear and Alexander McQueen rows of flounces on knits.

Burberry’s use of lace in shirts and creepy insect brooches can’t, and won’t, go unnoticed by the retail industry. Working out ways to make this palatable for the mass and premium markets may prove a challenge, but it will happen.

Why it works: The prevalence of new categories in menswear as seen in the last couple of seasons (see: kimono shape) (see also: blanket scarf ) holds much promise for more varied offerings. Year-on-year menswear growth globally is 4.5%, compared to 3.7% for womenswear. We expect that to come through in color, detailing and fabric as retailers across every market segment get bolder and more experimental. Pink and lilacs alone grew their presence by 127% this Spring.

Point being: there is room for a little play in every retailer’s menswear assortment.

2. SENSIBLE STEPS

Now we said Spring ’16 trends were far from dull, so hear us out on this one: incredibly sensible sandals. These comfort-staples were seen on the new season runways of Margaret Howell,

Examples of prints communicated by retailers for Spring ’15:

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View these brands and more on ApparelBuyersLounge.com

PIPPA & KATE

Give & Take is the first collection by Pipa & Kate, a thoughtful brand that encourages a greater connection during the creative process. “I learnt from my time at Massey that the best design comes from the desire to solve a problem - whether it be social, environmental or technical,” said co-director Pippa Auld. “I thrive off the knowledge that change is possible with positive dedicated designers,” added Kate Chalmers.

The problem Pippa & Kate perceived was a passive shopping experience.

When purchasing a Give & Take garment the shopper can chose from eight garment types, four shapes and seven colours. The choice of shape changes the structure and aesthetic of each garment as it is added to the a seam. With bright block colours for emphasis, this allows consumers to see what can be possible through the pattern making processes.

As designers, Auld and Chalmers wanted to pass on part of the fashion experience to consumers to create a greater sense of value and in return embedded more ethical and sustainable buying habits. “We think it’s about time the wearer took back some of the power and had a bit of fun doing it.” The collection contains locally produced New Zealand wool knitted on a dubied knitting machine. The four different fabrics were developed with felting techniques for different knit structures.

The aesthetic of Give & Take is necessarily driven by the conceptual aspects of the project, yet artistically the designers were interested in the structural approach of Japanese designers.

For more information, please email pippaauld@gmail.com or littleprojects.k@gmail.com.

LITTLE URBAN CLOSET

Parents, and now fashion brand owners, Amie Hewitt and Stacy Tapsell have founded a childrenswear brand that lets little ones dress like their parents. Funky and on trend products including the Check Yo’self Unisex Hoodie and Silver Ring Leggings make up the small collection that keeps on growing. Hewitt had always wanted to sew. She taught herself, with help from Tapsell’s seamstress mother and when some hoodie dresses she sold on Facebook took off the husband and wife team knew they were on to something.

Tapsell has a background in fashion marketing and naturally takes care of the branding and photography for the brand. Daughters Manaia and Tiare are the perfect models. With a little son on the way the family business is busy filling orders and crafting more handmade garments. Growing organically, Little Urban Closet is selling on a new e-commerce website frequented by fashionable parents looking for New Zealand made quality.

For more information, email lilurbancloset@ gmail.com.

ALEXANDRA DODDS

KANUKA COLLECTIVE Ryan MacPherson’s studio, situated among a Kanuka forest in Titirangi, Auckland, has grown a unique homeware brand, Kanuka Collective, out of its natural environment. MacPherson works with local producers and artisans to create products with intrinsic quality. Starting with soft furnishings including cushions and throws, Kanuka Collective has added hand crafted candles and a showpiece chair to its collection.

With a background in creative and digital advertising, MacPherson is inspired by brand building and so far he has created a fashionable brand that has built a following around beautiful textiles.

Unusual fabrics, such as cork leather for cushions, and traditional materials, such as apothecary glasses for

14 I July 2015

candles, all reflect a philosophy of crafted quality.

Adding another new brand to his collection, MacPherson has recently debuted Camp Cloon, a quality dog wear range inspired by his charismatic Cavoodle, Clooney. Kanuka Collective wholesales in New Zealand and Australia. To find our more, email hello@kanuka.co.

As a Whitecliffe Fine Arts graduate, Alexandra Dodds began to create hand crafted jewellery through self-taught technique.

Wearing her creations while working at a café, she sparked interest from her customers that inspired her to create her own jewellery brand.

Taking a capsule collection to New York, Dodds now works full time on her collection. From her Auckland based studio Dodds casts seasonless creations in silver and gold with limited edition releases. Influenced from her sculptural work at Whitecliffe Dodds’ first collections were contemporary knuckle dusters. Refining her design process, Alexandra Dodds’precious metal jewellery is becoming finer and attracting refined recognition from global publications including international Vogues and Harper’s Bazaar. From extensive experimentation of metalsmith techniques, Dodds is organically building her brand. Materials are locally sourced, recyclable and set with ethical gemstones.

Originally inspired by ‘make your own’ jewellery magazines as a child and now inspired by natural landscapes and a need to create everyday style, Dodds is enjoying her new line of work. Her friendship with other designers such as Miss Crabb have helped her break into the industry and Dodds is now growing at her own pace. To find out more, email info@ alexandradodds.com.

MARACA

Chris Lim owns over one hundred bottles of perfume. He mixes his scent each day to keep everyone guessing. In the same way, Lim’s boutique candle and beauty products brand Maraca is made up of inspired fragrances that keep the consumer intrigued.

With seven years experience in luxury fragrances and cosmetics in Malaysia, Lim is passionate about the luxury experience. A firm believer in quality, Maraca meets its high expectations with exclusive ingredients. The oil used to create each enigmatic fragrance is designed by Lim and formulated from a traditional maker in France. Hand poured in New Zealand with soy wax and natural cotton wicks, the candles are assured quality.

Maraca currently has six candle scents with two more to be launched at the Spring Gift & Homeware Fair this August. Sensing consumer demand for floral candles, the soon to be launched Rosaraie scent reflects rose garden notes while the Mulan candle is the scent of a magnolia flower. Maraca is a New Zealand brand poised to compete with international luxury brands. Currently stocked at DFS Galleria, the brand is sleek and sophisticated, right down to the packaging designed by Lim’s brother. Expanding with body care and travel ranges, Maraca is eco friendly and has no toxins.

Maraca will be at stand 4040 this Gift & Homeware Fair and Lim is looking forward to meeting new interest. For more information, email chris.lim@rocca.co.nz.

ARIELLE MERMIN

POM POM

Cool beanies for the winter months were a hard find for Alice Harding until she began her own headwear brand Pom Pom. Founded on the need for unique headwear that can spice up any outfit, Pom Pom is a playful and practical brand that brings joy in winter. Starting with beanies, Pom Pom’s current range offers six colourways for adults and two for children. Stripped and spotted, with an obligatory pom pom on top, the beanies are cosy yet playful. Being 80% wool and 20% nylon, with a 100% New Zealand merino pom, the beanies are high quality and easy to care for.

With experience in fashion buying and brand managing, Harding takes inspiration from the branding experience. She plans to expand her collection to a range of hats that are for the great outdoors as well as stylish indoors. For more information please email, hello@pompomnz.com.

Growing up on the beach in Marin County designer Arielle Mermin’s home focused on creative arts and practices, that has inspired her unfettered artistic approach to design today. Being from sunny California her brand reflects an urban bohemian vibe with a modern twist. As a true artist, Arielle Mermin’s SS 16 collection Spirit, designed at the time of her father’s funeral, plays homage to his life and death. A nomadic desert mood and dreamy silhouettes throughout the collection remembers Joshua Tree National Park, the last place he visited. Prints are designed around the ethnic patterns in her father’s wardrobe while the starkness of black and white mourning colours detail the rest of the collection.

Arielle Mermin prints are custom designed and produced in a high-end printing facility in Shenzhen, China, where handmade features, such as fringing, are added to the small run. Mermin discovered New Zealand after a year long surf safari across Indonesia, Fiji and Australia. The natural splendor of New Zealand was her first inspiration and now the silence of her small town has influenced Mermin’s designs to create an escape from the city life. Previously Memrin worked in art production and styling for a range of Hollywood shows including Ugly Betty, The Bachelor and Big Love. Now enjoying a relaxed lifestyle Mermin is organically growing her collection and a number of wholesale accounts.

To find out more, email hello@ariellemermin.com.

STANDSURE COMPANY

Standsure is a Scottish motto from the Anderson clan invoking strength and pride. Shaun Anderson named his premium menswear brand after his heritage as the all encompassing brand strives for mind, body and soul solidarity. Anderson was in the music industry before moving into coffee. Needing to hold on to a creative outlet, he began Standsure Company. Currently the brand focuses on headwear but Anderson hopes to expand by the end of the year. He’s taking his time on the project he hopes will become a full-time career as Standsure Company is not just another business, but a brand that promotes mindfulness. Endeavoring to support the whole person with his offerings Anderson’s high quality products are here to help consumers think in a healthier way. With the brands’ own sound cloud, Anderson has created playlists for mediation, work and winding down and Stansure Company’s blog covers themes of ritual and quality over quantity.

The brand’s five panel caps with handpicked cotton canvas, merino wool beanies and shallow beanies in a durable wool blend are made to keep. The streetwear brand finds a niche in its semi-formal aesthetic that appeals to a slightly older demographic. Stansure Company has even picked up a big following in New York, thanks to rapper and producer Oddisee wearing the headgear in his videos.

For more information, email hello@standsureco.com.

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colour trending

G r ec i a n A style that is encapsulated in white and gold, Grecian inspired fashion is a story told in sheer, billowing and off the shoulder garments that reference an ethereal moment in history and speak volumes of timeless elegance.

Looking at classic artwork of Greek gods and goddesses you’ll find a series of paintings that depict women and men in an emotional and romantic environment. The lighter than air fabrics that barely caress the porcelain skin of Diana as she pulls Cupid’s bow away in Batoni’s famous painting of the two set the tone for an on going love affair with the classic Grecian style.

Valentino captures the feather light essence of Grecian elegance with this shear silk dress that covers the body, but allows enough skin to show through as to stick true to the flesh heavy style of the time. In a colour similar to Resene Eskimo, he introduces a cool and calming palette that off sets the warm tone of the skin underneath. Experimenting with sheer fabrics, Paul Smith mixed contemporary silhouettes with transparent panelled textiles to modestly show enough skin to get the point across. The crisp white similar in colour to Resene Quarter Alabaster doesn’t distract from the effortlessly simple execution of this timeless look.

Whilst Lanvin avoided the use of translucent fabrics, volume played a big role in its latest collection, with billowing silk gowns clinging to the feminine physique beneath, highlighting the shape of the models breasts without exposing them completely. Similar in colour to Resene Casper, the gown is seductive when coupled with the free flowing draping of the silk.

Altuzarra took inspiration from the gold Grecian accents and translated it into a layered sleeveless gown with a plunging neckline, as if the model could shrug her shoulder and the whole dress would fall off. Similar in colour to Resene Crusade, the gold adds an element of luxe to the dress, alongside the careful lace trim and print on the incredibly delicate silk chiffon.

For a more modern approach, Ralph Rucci took key elements of sheer and off the shoulder cuts and transformed them into a contemporary cocktail dress similar in colour to Resene Triple Sea Fog. The most experimental, but still incredibly successful approach came from Aganovich who contemplated the idea of off the shoulder drapery in a heavier fabric, playing reference to the red seen in Batoni’s depiction of Diana and Cupid and similar in colour to Resene Pursuit. The exaggerated sleeve and collar draw attention to the delicate detailing of the exposed neckline and arm, whilst the rest of the dress moves and creates shapes as the model walks down the runway.

Valentino

Resene Eskimo

16 I July 2015

Rachel Zoe

Resene Half Blanc

Colours available from

Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363 Paul Smith

Rodarte

Resene Monte Carlo

Resene Quarter Alabaster

Lanvin

Resene Casper

Altuzarra

Resene Crusade

Aganovich

Resene Pursuit

Ralph Rucci Resene Triple Sea Fog

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photoshoot

BLUE BLANK Badge Backpack ORIGINALS BY JEREMY SCOTT Firebird Tracktop and Pants in Floral Red KOWTOW Building Block Pant in Black CHAOS & HARMONY Bolt Shoes in Black

CREDITS: Photographer: Caitlan Mitchell Model: Danika @ 62 Models Hair & Makeup: Clare Hendra

18 I July 2015

NYNE Distant Dress in Black VAUGHAN GEESON Rose Top in String ADIDAS Go-to gear Long Tights ADIDAS ORIGINALS Superstar in Black

ORIGINALS BY JEREMY SCOTT Firebird Tracktop in Floral Blue KOWTOW Dashes Leggings in White LES SPECS Naked Eyes Sunglasses

KOWTOW Volute Dress in Grey Marle KOWTOW Glaze Leggings in Kintsugi on Black ADIDAS Stan Smith

MINKPINK Minimal Damage Sunglasses ADIDAS ORIGINALS Brion Tracktop Snake in White/Collegiate Orange KOWTOW Trinket Top in White DEADLY PONIES Mr Market Pom Pom in Chalk ADIDAS ORIGINALS Archive Leggings in Night Sky

technology

SHINY NEW THING

As technology continues to advance at a rapid rate, Apparel talks to the industry’s leading companies that provide fashion clients with the benefits of new technology.

RETAIL INNOVATION INSIGHTS

Another bonus is that the pricing at both locations is always absolutely aligned, avoiding embarrassing errors. As part of an ongoing partnership, Kudos and Malletts continue to improve Malletts’ in store and online offering through this technology.

“We have always found Kudos’ service and back up excellent. They are always prompt in addressing issues once they gain access remotely,” said Norman.

E-retailer is implemented by many of New Zealand’s leading fashion stores, with the click and collect option used to great benefit by a number of fashionable clients.

TECH TALKS WITH LUMINARY Retail management software firm Island Pacific combined some of the best known retailers and vendors at its Retail Innovation Summit in the UK. Exploring retailer concerns and solutions around competing with multichannel retailing the Summit sought to find out how data was used across organisations.

20 per cent at the Summit admitted to not using a tool for space planning in retail stores while 72 per cent do not have one view across all data. Disparate systems and investment costs were found to be the main causes of stopping retailers having one clear view of data. However 88 per cent of the retailers that did use data and space planning tools found the practice very helpful. This was discussed alongside the 25th Annual Technology Survey that showed that 63 per cent of retailers are increasing customer engagement across multichannel, 32 per cent are advancing a mobile commerce strategy and 29 per cent are expanding multichannel initiatives.

International growth was high on the agenda with attending retailers looking at new store openings, international websites or partnerships with franchisees and international partners to expand beyond the UK. Australasian fashion businesses should look out for these opportunities.

24% of attendees on the day stated that growth through franchisee partnerships was one of the key channels for growth in the future. Island Pacific’s head office is in Irvine, California, and it has multiple offices across the US, UK and India, with local offices in New Zealand and Australia. Using its global knowledge and leading software Island Pacific ensures ever increasing consumer expectations are reached and new revenue is brought in with a clear view of retail data and effective planning.

ALL IN ONE

Malletts is Northland’s leading retailer in women’s fashion and a long term user of the fashion centric Counter Intelligence point of sale (POS) system from Kudos.

“Counter Intelligence works well in back office for us with easy management of stock orders, deliveries and reporting,” said Bernadette Norman, managing director, Malletts. In 2013 Mallett’s Rob and Bernadette Norman researched the options of moving from a static web page to a full e-commerce site and were delighted to find that by purchasing an e-retailer option from Kudos they were able to drive the online store from their Counter Intelligence system, which they had been using for 15 years prior.

“Adding e-retailer was an easy decision, as it works seamlessly with the Counter Intelligence stock control and customer database,” said Bernadette Norman.

All of the product images and descriptions used at their physical store were driven directly on to its online store. As all products and customers, including loyalty points, are common to both systems, stock selling in store is automatically reflected in both the online store and brick and mortar store. “The customer loyalty option works well at POS to help deliver a more personal service,” added Norman.

20 I July 2015

Q: “What are the top augmented reality uses in the fashion retail environment?”

A: Whether we like it or not the fashion retail environment in New Zealand is a competitive one. Our population means higher overheads, higher prices and shoppers demand better deals and increased choice. New Zealand fashion retailers need to use innovation to add value to the consumer experience and drive our shoppers back to New Zealand shores and stores. One way is through Augmented Reality (AR) that enhances shopper experiences through unique digital interactions that will stun, shock and surprise.

HERE ARE FOUR AR USES WITH EXAMPLES TO INSPIRE. 1. Personalising the shopping experience AR is becoming an extension of the sales assistant, allowing retailers to provide exceptional personal shopper experiences where previously they have not.

One such innovation is integrating AR technology into fitting room mirrors.

‘Magic mirrors’ located at Rebecca Minkoff, Soho, NYC, allows customers to select items in store, have them delivered direct to fitting rooms and pay for them using their mobile phones.

Another is automated recommendation. SportCheck in Canada uses specialised treadmills to provide a personalised recommendation of shoe size and type while informing the customer of special offers.

Even if you haven’t got a brick and mortar store, AR can still add excitement and value. Kate Spade, for exmaple, used touchscreens and behavioural technology at her unfinished store front. After asking four questions, shoppers received a personal styling recommendation of eight items that could be ordered online.

If you have both an online and offline presence you can create a more personal online experience like Topman. They provide their online shoppers an in store personalised experience via video chat, through the use of Google Hangouts.

2. Giving the power back to the offline shopper AR can be used to increase shopper engagement by offering the information they may be searching for and reward them while shopping in store.

Walgreens in the US have done just this and have a mobile phone App that allows customers to see items on sale, collect reward points and highlights a mapped route to wanted items in store.

3. Providing the perfect fit 3D bodyscan software provides an accurate model of the body to produce or select the correct item of clothing for consumers.

Les Nouveaux Ateliers, a small chain of boutique tailors in France and Belgium, uses a body scanner to take 200 precise measurments in order to produce custom

suits while Klépierre, a mall in Europe, scans shoppers in their ‘inspiration corridor’ and suggests clothing based on their fit and also product availbility.

Online retailers can still offer body scan software. Third Love, an online lingerie store, offers shoppers the perfect fitting bra without them even having to get measured.

4. Drive people in store Create an interactive store fronts increase engagement with the customer.

For a promotion, Bloomingdale shoppers could customise their Haviana jandals in the window before even stepping in store, using their smartphones in NYC. In Adidas’ flagship store in Hamburg, shoppers could touch hotspots on the store front window to find out more product information, interact with items and order by scanning a QR code or tapping the screen.

Our shoppers of the ‘now’ and ‘future’ want to be ‘wowed’ and ‘inspired’, so let’s integrate something special into the customer experience and go further than we thought possible.

Luminary is a leading marketing and experiential agency in New Zealand that focuses on augmented and virtual reality. If you have a question to ask Luminary about new age promotion, please email nzapparel@reviewmags.com with the subject line ‘Tech Talks with Luminary’ and it could be answered in the next issue of Apparel.

A TECHNOLOGY VILLAGE

In the growing world of business technology, high quality consumer attention is everything. Home grown company iStoreFront (iSF) has pioneered through-glass touch sensitive technology to create an interactive digital sign, the iSF6, that ensures attention. Witnessing his own relatives suffer from the new demands on retailers, Corrie Lane has teamed with Steve Cowper to develop a simple and cost effective product for digital out-of-home advertising.

With advances in mobile technology and near-field-communication digital outof-home one ups out-of-home advertising with traceable data. Unlike ever before the attention intensity and duration of consumers can be measured by interaction and consumers are so used to interacting with smart devices that the iSF6 is a simple and adoptable extension. The aim is to capture more customers by changing the way consumers look at a store from a distance. The opportunity lies in retailers being able to grab attention from consumers in-between places.

“Attention can now be considered a commodity and its cost is rising quickly while the quality is decreasing at a faster pace. One response to where the majority of consumer’s attention is being reduced, is to grab attention from a smaller group who are still paying attention,” said Cowper. As the iSF6 are present on shopping streets the customer is in the right state of mind to interact with promotions. Equipped with ultra-high brightness and high contrast hardware the LED screens outshine other in-window displays with clear, vivid messaging in any environment. With touch control consumers engage deeper into multi-layered content to share their experience and build a relationship with brands.

The iSF6 can display a retailer’s information, lookbooks, latest promotions and campaigns at the storefront. They easily fit on the inside of existing storefronts and iSF Quantum technology offers intuitive programmes for retailers to create their own promotional imagery to be displayed, while the content management systems allow retailers to load content, schedule and evaluate interaction data. iSF6 owners can offer airtime to other iSF businesses to create a mutually beneficial

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technology retail environment. Airtime is sold on the screen to help pay for the iSF6 before the retailer will earn its own profit from the leased airtime. To avoid unnecessary competition it is in the retailers hands to chose which kind of businesses can rotate adverts on its iSF6, and for how long.

“We want to put the money back in the retailer’s pockets,” explained Lane.

It’s a unique blend of the latest in high quality digital signage and a community spirit. Envisaging ecological technology villages, iSF is creating a system of consumer interaction and industry support. iSF is working with the Takapuna Beach Business Association (TBBA) and Samsung New Zealand to create an Eco Tech Zone to show the world how making advanced shopping districts can have an immediate impact on not just our shopping environments but our natural environments too, with minimal energy or waste products required by the screens.

Being a kiwi engineer, Lane took one of only two in the world Samsung demo screens to the beach to ensure it could withstand even the sandiest and sunniest New Zealand conditions. Luckily, the screen passed the tests. The iSF6 can withstand both direct and indirect sunlight and temperatures as high as 110 degrees Celsius. Certified to run 24/7 the screens pick up a hand waving and tapping not only through glass but through gloves and wet windows as well.

“All trends point to consumers looking local, they trust the brick-and-mortar retailer, they look for the experience, even if they are showrooming they are in-store for the touch and feel,” said Cowper.

“We are taking this to the world,” added Jonathan Dixon, Lead Project Manager, iSF. The iSF6 is designed for un-paralleled presence in outdoor environments. With a proudly New Zealand Maori team iSF is changing the way both business and consumers think about technology worldwide.

ARE VIRTUAL FITTING ROOMS THE SILVER BULLET? Getting fitting and size right online is a key strategic piece of the omni channel puzzle. Greg Randall, director, Comma Consulting talks about the importance of taking your time to get the fit and size experience right.

Delivering positive, intuitive and seamless steps for a consumer can gain confidence in size selection when purchasing apparel online, and is key to the new age consumer experience. The retailers who face the biggest challenge in delivering fit and sizing solutions are with those who carry multiple brands. These retailers are reliant on the content provided by multiple suppliers along with juggling differing sizing rules for each garment type and brand.

Many retailers introduce lenient return polices and offer free shipping for returns to compensate for the fit and sizing content. “Some customers treat our free shipping service as part of their changing room experience, except it’s at home in their bedroom,” said Sophie Glover, head of technical, ASOS. Yet the costs associated with return shipping amass to operational stress with handling, credit card processing fees, repackaging, and restocking.

Imagine what a retailer could do with freed up resource from processing fewer returns. In recent years software companies have grown from the need to solve this problem. Virtusize, Fits.me, True Fit and Clothes Horse all attempted to tackle the fit problem virtual fitting rooms, a technology-based solution that

22 I July 2015

simulates the physical fit and sizing experience.

However, to solve fit and sizing, retailers must effectively deliver two things working in unison, accurate relevant content and a good experience. Retailers who still have not perfected the content required to feed these virtual fitting rooms fall short.

The size and fitting online journey must be easy to use but virtual fitting room software is still relatively new for consumers and a best practice approach has not yet been established.

“Asos is regularly presented with new technology designed to support more accurate sizing choices and reduce returns related to this area of purchase, but so many of them are not practical in what they require the customer to do,” said Glover.

To illustrate this point Randall tested Fits.me. This virtual fitting room works well on both a tablet and smartpone, and teaches shoppers how to measure various body measurements. But not all size recommendations are available and the website lacks helpful call to actions along the process.

The novelty of third party software wears off very quickly if the experience is clunky and the content is inadequate. The consumer associates the bad experience to the retailer not the software tool and the retailer cannot always rely on the software to make their problem go away.

Although virtual fitting room software is an exciting solution to the online size and fit conundrum Randall advises careful planning and research to ensure that this supposed silver bullet does not create more problems than it can solve.

BETTER TOGETHER

As a fashion retailer, when you look to implement training in your stores, face-to-face training might seem like a good place to start. But, in today’s retail environment, face-to-face alone is not enough to create a positive shift in the sales and service culture of your team.

Red Seed, a company specialising in cloud-based training solutions designed for retail, believes in blended training. Managing director Anya Anderson explains why this works so well today.

The millennial generation have grown up with access to the world at their fingertips, and so much of their life is spent fusing real-world interactions with online ones. It makes sense to deliver training in a way that’s accessible and familiar to them.

Trainees want flexibility, interactivity, and ‘on-demand’ training.

We know that online training gives all the obvious benefits - reduced training costs, ease of management, 24/7 access to content, greater transparency and tools for tracking ROI. With Learning Management Systems (LMS’s) like Linda and Kineo, it’s easier than ever for fashion retailers to create, deploy and manage training in-house which meets the basic needs of the business. But, one question asked often by retailers wanting to make the leap from face-to-face training to online-training is; “How do you teach soft skills in an online learning environment?”

Blended learning is where a training programme takes the best aspects of both types of training (face-to-face and online) and merges them into one cohesive training experience. A study by the United States Department of Education uncovered that trainees enrolled in a blended program were 25 percent faster in achieving the same learning outcomes as their classroom-based counterparts.

What does this all mean for the retailer? It means that if you want to get the best results from your training, you need not say goodbye to the traditional training we’ve all become accustomed to. It’s been shown that the number of staff reaching and exceeding target increases by 25 percent when a formal coaching process is in place.

That’s why Red Seed take a blended learning approach to our training.

Karma Wetere, national retail manager, Max Fashions says that ‘RedSeed speak’ has become part of their everyday language with coaching completed on the floor daily with team members. “Our service excellence awards, in-house feedback via Facebook or our website, have increased from a few a month to at least 6 a week!” said Wetere.

She can also attribute an 80%+ increase in items per-sale to the implementation of their online sales training.

Red Seed’s technology courses can facilitate face-to-face coaching interactions in the form of practice activities, where a coach must conduct a coaching session and mark each task as complete before the trainee can continue.

Real-time practice and feedback means learning is more effective, suited better to the retail environment and provides an accurate overview of the trainee’s understanding of the new skill. The ‘Coaching Feedback Loop’ is fundamental to the success because it gives coaches an easy way to keep track of coaching and monitor engagement.

5 WAYS TO WIN THE WAR AGAINST RETAIL SHOWROOMING

Showrooming is a relatively recent shopping behaviour where consumers visit a store to try out a product and then purchase it at a cheaper price online. It’s been powered by the rise of smartphones which enable shoppers to compare prices and look for a better deal online rather than purchasing a product at the bricks and mortar outlet.

In an economy where consumer spending is down and retailers are already feeling the pinch, showrooming has become a major talking point amongst retailers.

Aaron Blackman, CEO and founder of leading cloud-based retail management and POS system Retail Express, offers five ways to combat this trend or, better still, make it work in your favour.

1. Offer More Information Be proactive in providing the information your customers want. A mobile-enabled

4 WAYS TO IMPROVE YOUR DIGITAL PRESENCE

The apparel industry is highly competitive and your digital presence matters more than ever. When consumers search on Google they look at the first page of results, so you need to be in the top results to be truly competitive. You can focus on improving your ‘organic’ search results, or you can use ‘paid’ search to get your brand noticed, or a combination of both is wise. Because choosing paid advertising or AdWords will get you short term exposure for as long as your budget allows, if you focus on ‘organic’ search you will build long term value into your website.

PureSEO is New Zealand’s largest specialist search engine optimisation firm. General Manager Koshy Mathew has been in the advertising industry in NZ for the past 11 years, and prior to this he was in the apparel industry across Indonesia, Bahrain and India for 10 years.

Mathew looks at the four areas to focus on if you want to start increasing the profile of your website: 1. Set up: Make it easy for your audience and search engines (Google) to find your website. Google prefers sites that are secure, well-mapped, can be read easily, load quickly and mobile-friendly. Get an expert to audit your site and make sure everything is set up correctly.

2. Content is king: Information and images are the most important elements you can improve. Google loves fresh, relevant content and customers do too. Make sure you use language and images that will speak to your customers and keep it updated.

3. Create quality links: Google judges how useful your website is by its ‘links’ or ‘hyperlinks’. Make sure you link to other content that is relevant to your brand -include both internal (your site) and external site links (other websites).

4. Social media: It’s a great way to grow your audience. The number of ‘comments’, ‘likes’, ‘shares’ or ‘tweets’ is an indicator on how popular your site is. Customer engagement will help a site rank higher. Be strategic and post often but make sure the content is relevant. Listen to your customers and use it as a two-way communication channel.

To get your business to the top of search result you’ll need to get these four tactics right. Spread your investment and most importantly, talk to an expert first to make sure the fundamentals are in place.

continued on page 24

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apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 23

technology module is something you would ‘never try at home’. You would carefully and dutifully brief the insights team, or a consulting company, and it would get delivered back to you with significant ceremony on a power-point deck.

11Ants Analytics develops cloud-based customer science platforms to quickly understand and drive retail growth. “It is nice to have a framework built on best practices to think about these things through,” said Fuyala. “Some retailers don’t ask the question, not because they are not curious about their business, but more because it wasn’t clear that the question could or should be asked.”

This is a multi-dimensional problem and solutions that solve it will need to be multi-dimensional. This illustrates probably one of the more exciting ways that cloud computing is going to touch just about everybody in business. There is a proliferation of cloud hosted solutions being built, tailored very specifically to given industries, which can handle computationally heavy processing, PhD levels of complexity, with best practices built in, that can be turned on virtually at will, and are available by monthly subscription. There is a whole new way of viewing business and accordingly an entirely new perspective on ways to grow it, which is quite a big deal. website will enable interaction with potential customers when they’re out shopping and position you as a more viable option. You can also use signage, promotional materials, in-store kiosks and even QR codes to keep shoppers informed about product information and special offers. Better still, your own branded mobile app will give customers an easy way to engage with your brand.

2. Be Willing to Price Match A price-matching policy eliminates the impetus of showrooming since customers know they can buy a product from you right now for the same price as an online store. You secure the sale and the customer gets to walk away with the product. It’s a win-win that builds loyalty for your brand because shoppers appreciate that you will go the extra mile to secure the relationship with them.

3. Deliver an Outstanding Customer Experience According to TNS’ survey, more customers still prefer to engage with a sales assistant than buy online, so train your staff to offer exemplary customer service.

“Businesses should deliver personalised, engaging and consistent experiences whenever and wherever customers interact with them. It’s clear the public still demands a physical presence on the high street, but it’s those that offer a more tailored experience, both in store and online, that will win out,” said Felim Mackle, sales and service director, O2 UK. 4. Stock Unique Products One of the easiest ways to combat showrooming is to offer products that aren’t available anywhere else. Not only does this eliminate the threat that customers will find the same product at a cheaper price on a competitor’s website, but unique products can drive more traffic to your store, offering additional opportunities for cross selling and up selling.

5. Explore New Technology More companies are exploring the use of mobile devices to enable customer service staff to get out from behind the service desk and into the showroom.

Showrooming represents an opportunity, not an obstacle, because it brings people into your store to look and feel at products they’re serious about buying. By engaging with showroomers and finding ways to convert them on the spot, smart retailers can use this ‘challenge’ to grow their business.

CLOUDS FOR CUSTOMERS

Even the brightest retailers get lost in the productcentric mentality that pervades retailing the world over.

“Like it or not, you have been conditioned to think about products and stores - not customers,” said Tom Fuyala, 11Ants Analytics.

Fuyala believes this is because retailers are organized around products, and retail information systems have been designed to make information flow in a product and store sort of way. The difference between an answer in two minutes and two weeks is the difference between bothering to ask the question or not.

Traditionally building something like a value segmentation

24 I July 2015

MERCHANDISE PLANNING AND ALLOCATION AN INSEPARABLE PARTNERSHIP

It is not a great revelation to say no retailer should consider investing in what is likely to be itssingle largest asset – inventory – without careful thought and planning.

However merchandise planning and allocation specialist Gerry Sapucci knows what does vary greatly between retailers is the depth and detail of that planning, and, very importantly, how those plans are given effect.

Merchandise planning can involve a great deal of detail, however by taking a sensible approach as to what information is actionable versus just nice to know, it need not be a complex and onerous undertaking. On the other hand, to over simplify it by limiting it to just forecasting Open To Buy (as many retailers do), constrains its capability to assist in meeting the overall objective of retail merchandising: to ensure the right goods are in the right places at the right time, in the right quantities and at the right prices.

In isolation, planning may engender a comfortable feeling that all is well thought‐ out, clear and under control, but it is the realisation of the plans which can mean the difference between success and failure. To use the analogy of building a house, it would seem unthinkable to engage an architect to draw up the plans in finite detail, and then allow the builder to construct whatever he saw fit without any regard to those plans. And yet this is what often happens in retail,plans are created by one team and the merchandise is allocated by another, often in separate systems and with little no reference to one another.

Unless the actual distribution of the merchandise meets inventory objectives of the plan on an ongong basis, the business can no longer be considered well thought‐out, clear and under control. Instead, the term “flying by the seat of the pants” comes to mind.

And unless those plans are reviewed regularly and adjusted where necessary to take into account current and anticipated trends, their forecasts will be misguided and possibly even detrimental. There are several packaged software solutions available, most of which have the same basic core functionality applicable to many retailers. Some vendors offer cloud based or hosted off‐site deployment models as well as on‐premise models. Choosing which option would be most suitable would depend on the retailer’s own IT capabilities and infrastructure. Alternatively, a bespoke system could be developed using internal or external resources. But whichever route is followed, all would need configuration to a greater or lesser degree to meet the retailer’s specific structures and requirements, and integration with existing legacy systems.

Effective merchandise planning, tightly coupled with allocation, is imperative for the successful retailer. Correctly employed with technology, this partnership will undoubtedly improve inventory management and hence the bottom line.

trend WATCH

When you picture a carnival, skulls and flowers aren’t the first thing to come to mind, but think about the South American Day of the Dead and you’ll soon become familiar with this carnival trend that has had a global impact.

In its traditional form, the Day of the Dead or Día de Muertos is a celebration of lost relatives, dating back hundreds of years to the time of the Aztecs and has quickly spread across Mexico and other Hispanic populated areas.

The three-day celebration is identified by floral and skeletal motifs, with participants and costumers often painting their faces in a skull style and adorning themselves with flowers.

These motifs have sparked into a movement in fashion, which may seem unrelated but is in fact a direct translation from traditional practices. Take for example the Lena Hoschek Spring 2013 collection, which depicts girls with sugar skull painted faces wearing large floral headbands. That same year Maya Hansen also showed models wearing floral headbands and sugar skull prints. Skull and floral embellishments then went on to feature across a range of collections including House of Holland and Dolce & Gabbana.

This year, for the annual Walk the Line event, designers have been tasked with creating similar carnival inspired looks, with instructions to pay close attention to the aesthetic of Día de Muertos.

YMCA’s Walk the Line is organised and run by the North Shore Raise Up Crew – aged between 13 and 19 years – giving designers from the age of 14 to 18 the platform to showcase both their design and event management skills. Held at the Viaduct Event Centre, Walk the Line is witnessed by approximately 800 people each year, continually growing to meet higher expectations. The life-changing event gives the participants an opportunity to experience a real life fashion show scenario, which serves as an inspiration to exceed within the fashion industry. With generous support from New Zealand Fashion Week, Revlon, Beatnik Publishing, Auckland Council’s Regional Events Fund and others, Walk the Line is now in its 7th year.

accessoryALERT

PRETTY BRAVE

As the name suggests, Pretty Brave is an attractive and adventurous brand. Director Natalie Meldrum has a successful 15 year career in graphic design and advertising.

She is an artist with several successful exhibitions under her belt and her new brand reflects her love of Scandinavian design, fashion, graphic design and travel.

Meldrum relocated from New Zealand to Valencia, Spain, with her two small children, Skye and Blake, for her husband’s work in the yacht design industry. For five years, the family had the incredible experience of immersing themselves into Spanish culture, raising their children in local Spanish schools and travelling Europe. During this time, her two children and their love of Spanish shoes inspired Meldrum to create a unique baby brand. The name Pretty Brave was actually given after Meldrum and her partner found themselves using the frequent phrase - ‘Well aren’t you Pretty Brave!”

The family returned home to New Zealand at the end of 2014, in preparation to launch Pretty Brave.

The brand fills the gap for fashion-led baby shoes that are

beautiful, functional and adored by parents. Fitting infants through to two year olds, across four sizes, the shoe line is the product of many, many hours of hard work.

Meldrum joined forces with long time friend, snowboard and travel companion Kirsty Way, who is now Pretty Brave’s part owner and marketer. Thinking of the full brand experience, Meldrum and Way have added a gift label and a keepsake box for the shoes.

“There are a plenty of baby products around but we’ve designed a range for grown ups to fall in love with, fashionable and evolving with changing fashions,” said Meldrum.

Soft leather, child friendly, clean and modern, Pretty Brave is focusing on the New Zealand market for now. The team would like to introduce more baby accessory products and look to distribute internationally in the future.

To find out more email hello@prettybrave.com.

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I 25

the key PIECE

THE CARDIGAN A typical menswear look consists of a series of key pieces, but in the colder months it is important to recognise the versatility of a casual cardigan.

On its own or under a jacket, the cardigan is an essential layer when putting together a transitional outfit, whether it is from cold to freezing or day to night.

Consider the I Love Ugly grey crew neck sweater. On its own the grey and white fleck is simple but modern enough to carry itself from the street to dinner. Pair it with a printed shirt from Jack & Jones for an adventurous experimentation with style, or keep it simple with basic white or black linen from Huffer.

The magic of winter is in the ability to experiment with layers, and with every layer introduced, more room for experimentation is generated. Think about layering a jacket, over a more textured cardigan to give depth to a look, with a pop of colour in the shirt to bring the combination to life.

Don’t forget to balance the top and bottoms, pulling the navy from the printed shirt and pairing

it with a semi casual navy derby shoe from Lacoste.

Neutral colours are a safe bet, stick to brown, grey, white and navy, keeping in mind to wear pants to match the occasion.

in DETAIL

ISAAC + LULU SUMMER 15

Designer Ange Todd kept one thing at the forefront of her design process when putting together the winter 15 range for new label Isaac + Lulu, wearability, and the innate ability of garments to meld directional, modern design with traditional tailoring.

These are fast becoming key elements in the brand aesthetic that plays true to its clean and modern aesthetic rather than overcompensating with current trends, with its summer collection showcasing the multiple opportunities each garment has for constructing a look.

“Harry meets Caroline de Maigret, resulting in confident sexy styling, best served with messy hair and rock ‘n’ roll Chanel chic.

At Isaac + Lulu we’re not always conventional or expected, for us there isn’t just one way to put an outfit together,” said Todd The pop punk direction for the summer collection brings life to traditional tailoring, with a string of vibrant colours and prints carrying throughout the range.

For example the bright red seen across a full length dress, a line skirt, and printed tee, coupled with the addition of a hand drawn floral design in the navy panelled dress. “Isaac + Lulu was created for us, for our friends and for people like us. The collections reflect what we value and are serious about; being considered, modern, responsible, and keeping it fresh with the unexpected. We think everything is right when it’s left a little bit imperfect,” said Todd.

Juxtaposing lady luxe with the urban tomboy, the design vision of Todd is establishing Isaac + Lulu as a brand that embraces individuality and creativity when experimenting with fashion.

26 I July 2015

behind the business

The industry according to . . .

JULIETTE HOGAN

I never had big dreams of being a fashion designer growing up.

It wasn’t until I won a scholarship to study at Parson’s School of Design in New York that I considered starting my own business.

It was during an internship with Rebecca Taylor in New York that I looked around her workroom and thought, when I have my workroom I’d like it to look a little like this. Once the decision had been made to start my own label, there wasn’t an alternative career path for me.

Having been in business for over 11 years, there have been a lot of changes, namely on the manufacturing side in New Zealand. As we become a global market gaining access to resources and manufacturers overseas we see more and more locally designed product being made off shore due to cheaper make prices and access to specialised resources that are simply not available any more within New Zealand.

As it stands, my label remains staunchly New Zealand made. Supporting the local economy and the manufacturers within our industry is a big part of how I run my business. Many of the outworkers I use have been making my clothes since I started back in 2004.

I believe strongly in supporting the people within our economy and I strive to create luxury products that surpass trends and seasons, so the importance of beautifully tailored, quality garments is key.

An outworker in particular that has been a huge part of my business since its inception has been Noelene Slaughter who started Avenue Clothing the same year I began my business. Avenue looks after

nuts&BOLTS

my sampling, production and pulling together special order pieces. Noelene and her small team work closely and tirelessly at points in the season to help realise the collection from pattern to a finished sample. She understands my brand ideals and is a vital part of the process of putting garments out to market that we are both really proud of.

We are incredibly fortunate that our customers are hugely supportive of our stance on locally made product. Our customers are discerning, intelligent women that do not want their clothes to scream, but rather effortlessly take them through their busy schedules. They are happy to invest in key pieces rather than trend driven fashion that often don’t stand the test of time.

Another change as the market becomes one global stage is the rise of online and how important it is to compete on this platform. It was an entirely new movement in retail for me when we launched our e-store a couple of years ago. Since then we have redeveloped it to keep up with the changing face of online shopping behavior and the results have been brilliant. The mechanics behind e-tailing is exciting, fast paced and ever evolving and we’re working incredibly hard to get to the forefront of it as it provides a stage to showcase the brand internationally in the way we intend it to be seen.

“We are incredibly fortunate that our customers are hugely supportive of our stance on locally made product.”

Apparel speaks to people working hard behind the scenes of the business.

FRANCES LOWE,

Production Manager at RUBY Managing the production of the RUBY and Liam ranges from design conception until it sits in store is a bit like fitting together a puzzle that keeps changing shape for Frances Lowe. She has to have her finger on the pulse at all times.

Daily duties include attending seasonal range viewings, discussions with the design team, creating costings for each design, creating order forms for the sales team and arranging fabric and trim purchasing, both locally and internationally. It’s a vast and varied role.

Styles that are in production require a lot of communication and visits. Between different suppliers and manufacturers who produce the clothes, excellent management skills are needed to ensure the process is smooth and efficient. Lowe also gets a creative outlet in designing and developing the accessory and footwear ranges alongside designers Deanna Didovich and Emily Miller-Sharma.

Lowe studied architecture at university as it was a good balance between her love of art and her inner ‘maths geek’. However, by the end of the degree Lowe knew she did not wish to pursue architecture further but rather switched to another creative career. Starting as an intern at RUBY in her last semester of university a combination of hard work and the right timing got Lowe to where she is today.

Being in this role for only a few months, Lowe has not looked back. Having complete control over every part of every garment empowers the driven production manager.

“It’s quite an attachment for me going through the processes. I have high standards and I need to know firsthand that the clothes are of the highest possible quality. I get satisfaction in the end product sitting beautifully in our stores,” said Lowe.

The challenge Lowe faces is the movement of local manufacturing to offshore. Without many graduates or apprentices coming through to support production, Lowe does what she can with the help of her network. However, thinking of how the situation will evolve in the next 10 to 20 years does scare Lowe.

To be a successful production manager the ability to multi-task in a time-pressured environment is key. Communication skills, accurate attention to detail and a positive, forward-thinking mentality is a necessity with Lowe embodying it all. So long as beautiful and exciting clothes make it into store on time her ambition is achieved.

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I 27

special report

THAT’S A RAP

Fashion collaborations with music stars don’t only hit the right note with consumers but bring together creative forces for a stronger brand positioning. In the world of music, rap and hip-hop genres fit perfectly as high-energy creative outlets.

“I approach creativity like a sport, where if I have a drawing I react just like a jock: LOOK AT THE F**KING DRAWING RIGHT THERE YEAH!” Kanye, a man of many quotes, is a controversial creative. However, he is praised in the fashion industry for both his normcore sensibilities and ability to not look like a walking fashion advertisement.

At his New York Fashion Week launch of Yeezy Boost for adidas Originals footwear his new song played after a monologue on how ‘people are scared to create.’ Taking the self prescribed position of influencer and inspirer Kanye headlines a long list of rap and hiphop artists making their mark on fashion culture.

When Rihanna, announced that she was Puma’s new global brand ambassador for women’s training and Puma Women’s creative director it was a wonder, as it was with father, songwriter, record producer and fashion designer Kayne, where she would find the time and energy.

“Embodying everything that Puma stands for, Rihanna’s unstoppable spirit, creative energy and prowess both on and off the stage make her the perfect representation of the Puma brand,” wrote a Puma representative.

Customising classic Puma styles as well as creating new styles to add to the Puma product portfolio Rihanna is no longer a pretty campaign face for Dior but a bona fide director of style.

“It’s great to find a brand that celebrates strength and individuality,” commented Rihanna.

When reading about Rihanna on Puma’s website her new single and Instagram account are linked.

Rihanna the singer, actress, songwriter and fashion designer has a long list of titles like Kanye and other stars. It must be that high energy over achievers are drawn to fashion, a notoriously demanding industry.

Receiving the 2014 Fashion Icon Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Rihanna accepted the award, presented by Anna Wintour, in a see through ‘naked dress’.

“The point is to be audacious, even jawdropping or button-pushing,” said Wintour in her address. Accepting the award, Rihanna admitted that fashion is her defence mechanism. “I can compensate for all my weaknesses with my fashion,” she said.

Rihanna is creating time for her Puma roll as even as one of the most powerful women in hip-hop she relies on fashion.

50 Cent, whose legal name is Curtis James Jackson III, created his G-Unit brand, including a record company, a clothing company and a sneaker deal with Reebok’s RBK line, with his young manager Chris Lighty.

The G-Unit Clothing Company was a joint venture with hip-hop-influenced designer Marc Ecko fronting the money, handling the manufacturing and distribution.

From Queens and the Bronx respectively, Jackson and Lighty are street kids turned businessmen that

28 I July 2015

made use of 50’s stardom and their partners’ expertise to create multiple revenue streams.

Continuing in this strategy, Jackson has recently announced that he will be designing his own line of underwear for Frigo, a men’s underwear brand.

“My inspiration for this line came from the idea of the hierarchy of living, which is why you will see the crown as a constant throughout the designs,” said Jackson. Music producer Timothy ‘Timbaland’ Mosley also invested Jackson’s line titled Frigo Crown.

“50 is amazingly creative and his attention to detail is immaculate,” said Mathias Ingvarsson, founder, Frigo. Unsurprisingly, the common bond between rapper super stars and fashion brands is creativity, scrupulousness and a fierce individuality. What is surprising is that Jackson’s own hierarchy has become unstuck this month, with the artist filing for chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in Hartford, Connecticut.

Just in May, Forbes estimated the 50 Cent empire to the tune of US$155 million, a top five in the wealthiest hip-hop artists register.

Business failings aside Jackson, a former cocaine dealer who has been shot nine times, is sticking to his guns. “I have faith in the court systems,” said Jackson.

“I know at points you gotta just relax and go through the process.”

Pharrell Williams, singer, songwriter, rapper, record producer, and fashion designer is another CFDA Fashion Icon that fearlessly crowd surfs into fashion, combing streetwear and sport luxe with Parisian high fashion.

However Williams has never seen himself directly as a fashion icon. “I’m like, uh…” the CFDA quoted Williams expressing after he was told of the award.

“I get my style from just random people, everyday people. Construction is interesting to me… everyday things, you know, service uniforms, sports, skateboarding, normcore, grandma sweaters—all of that stuff is interesting to me,” he added.

An unassuming answer from the man who creates exclusive Superstar Pharrell Supercolor sneakers for adidas Originals, the brand who has named Wiliams a ‘pioneer of street culture’.

These sneakers in premium leather are inspired by William’s experiences throughout his 2015 world tour and with intense colours and patterns, the shoes reflect the Grammy-winner’s mission to promote individuality, equality and diversity around the globe.

South African retailer Woolworths Holdings Ltd has now appointed Williams as style director to help ‘make sustainability cool’ with their projects in Africa.

“A year ago we announced our plans to purchase David Jones and now we are a bigger business, we need a bigger commitment to do more,” said Ian Moir, chief executive officer, Woolworths.

The company has announced Williams will visit South Africa in September to perform at a concert for 5,000 Woolworths customers, where children from local schools will be chosen to sing with him.

While doubling what they donate to schools Woolworths also plans to invite clothing design students to submit proposals for t-shirts made out of recycled plastic waste. Williams will choose his favourite designs and these will be sold in Woolworths’ stores.

Social movements and charitable courses, often the hugely influential and philanthropic tendencies of famous individuals, have now combined through fashion and retailing.

Australasian fashion businesses need to take note of the cultural influence of hip-hop and rap culture that is spilling over to fashion. A step ahead, I Love Ugly’s has teamed with Californian based rapper G-Eazy for an editorial shoot. Following the opening of their first US retail store with a LA inspired collection, I Love Ugly is proving that it’s not enough to have celebrities wearing a brand as they step in front of paparazzi. Genuine collaboration is the key to global connection.

So how do you pick the next song writer turned fashion designer for the New Zealand market and beyond?

Canadian rapper, singer, songwriter and record producer Drake, full name Aubrey Drake Graham, has been named fashion’s new alt darling by fashion commentators. His own fashion sense and nods to the fashion industry have him aligned for this new role. Wearing rising British designer Craig Green while headlining Wireless festival in North London, Drake signalled to the British fashion industry that he is serious about fashion and this has created a serious business buzz.

“Drake is very smart to pick Craig Green because on a super basic fashion kudos points system, Green is undoubtedly the buzziest name in men’s fashion right now. He also chose a British name on British soil – very Michelle Obama,” said Simon Chilvers, men’s style director, Matchesfashion.com.

On our shores Stan Walker, recording artist, actor, television and now movie personality has the earned list of titles, business drive and fashion sense to fit the bill. Understandably, Lorde has been targeted by New Zealand fashion brands with offerings of their latest looks yet a representative of hers has been spotted purchasing fabric at a local wholesaler.

Now that individuality is the leading trait for both successful music stars and fashion acclaim, it’s not enough to have garments on the rich and famous. Fashion businesses need to work with artists on mutually creative projects that create a greater connection.

By Jessica-Belle Greer

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