Apparel Magazine // July 2016

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JULY 2016 I VOL 49 I NO 7

HEIDI KLUM LAUNCHES

SWIMWEAR pg 18 NEWS 03 MENSWEAR NEWS 10 COLOUR TRENDING 16 APPAREL MEETS . . . 24 INDUSTRY ACCORDING TO. . . 28

EDITOR’S letter

FASHIONABLE

VIRTUAL REALITY HITTING INDUSTRY Although many of us, I’m sure would prefer to be wearing physical clothes, the rise of virtual reality and virtual clothes is one that can’t be ignored. The fashion industry on a global scale seems to be embracing this new technology and using it to their advantage.

Dutch designers Pinar & Viola created a holographic catwalk show for an entirely VR clothing range, all showcased on a real model during Amsterdam Fashion Week.

According to the pair, they wanted to create a catwalk experience where the spirit of the clothing was visualised, as in today’s market they believe that people are mistreating their clothes because they don’t feel connected to them.

Luxury fashion houses like Balenciaga and Dior have been flirting with the new 360 filming, which could see the runway video be a thing of the past.

Audiences were excited seven years ago when Alexander McQueen teamed up with SHOWstudio to become the first designer to live stream a show, despite the stream not going to plan after Lady Gaga released her new track as models took to the runway resulting in a crashed website, the industry has never been closer to online audiences and international markets.

One season at a time fashion is being pushed further and further into the tech world.

This year Balenciaga streamed their AW16 show to a mobile and tablet app in the form of 360-degree virtual reality footage. This saw new doors open for the brand and was the beginning of a new era.

“This was an egalitarian proposition which allowed a worldwide audience the unique opportunity to view a Balenciaga show like never before, immediate and real-time for the new creative identity of the maison,” said the house.

The 360-degree filming technique had previously been used in many high-end luxury cases. Dior designer Raf Simmons revealed that the house made

a post-show video where users could view different aspects of the runway. They also released Dior Eyes, a 3D printed virtual reality headset found in select stores that gave shoppers a behind the scenes look at the house’s ready-to-wear show.

In the last three years, the virtual reality sector has grown rapidly and it continues to develop and improve with more and more people wanting to try it.

These live streams and virtual reality windows alongside the rise in social media has broken down the fashion walls and let the world in.

The future of fashion weeks has come into question, especially after Kanye West’s show where viewers streaming the show had a fabulous cinematic experience and camera angles and close-ups that those sitting in the stalls of Madison Square Gardens quite simply, just did not have.

Considering clothes are now available to consumers the moment it hits the runway, fashion weeks become a less practical resource for buyers and press to see new collections it would seem. Seasons from now, the industry could be getting up close and personal with fashion week designers and brands from the comfort of their own headsets.

Sarah

It takes 30,000 silkworms to produce just over 5kg of raw silk.

PUBLISHER Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Thomas Fowler - tommie@reviewmags.com ADVERTISING SALES Josie McKeefry - josie@reviewmags.com SENIOR DESIGNER Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com DESIGN ASSISTANT Hannah Sames

2 I July 2016

THE INVENTOR’S DILEMMA: The Remarkable Life of H. Joseph Gerber

BY DAVID GERBER

Based on extensive interviews with former colleagues, journalists, and industry leaders, penned by his son David Gerber, The Inventor’s Dilemma tells the incredible story of H. Joseph Gerber, a world-class inventor with hundreds of patents to his name. Gerber has split the book into two sections – The Fall and The Ascent – in which he chronicles both the personal and professional life of a man who, as a 13-year-old Jewish boy in Nazioccupied Austria in 1939, used his creativity and ingenuity to help his family survive.

Beatrix Potter Fashion Designer Collection

BY BEATRIX POTTER

sarah@reviewmags.com

ON THE COVER:

Heidi Klum Launches Swimwear pg 18

the NUMBERS . . .

Each year, over two billion t-shirts are sold worldwide.

READS

Australia exports 50,000 tonnes of second hand clothing and textiles annually.

A single bale of cotton, weighing in under 227kg can make 215 pairs of jeans.

PHOTOGRAPHER Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com ADMINISTRATION MANAGER Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.

Set to be released in August is a set of five classic Beatrix Potter books, all designed with cover art by iconic fashion designers from Britain and Ireland. The collection includes The Tale of Jemima Puddle-Duck with cover designed by Henry Holland, The Tale of Miss Tiggy with cover designed by Orla Kiely, The Tale of Peter Rabbit with cover designed by Cats Brothers, The Tale of Squirrel Nutkin with cover designed by Preen, and The Tale of Tom Kitten with cover designed

by Rodnik Band. The range is part of Random House’s year-long celebration of Beatrix Potter, and the 150th anniversary of her birth.

YVES SAINT LAURENT: The Perfection of Style

BY FLORENCE MULLER, FOREWORD BY PIERRE BERGE AND KIMBERLY RORSCHACH Responsible for bringing masculine ease to women’s clothing, legendary designer Yves Saint Laurent has established himself as a life-long icon of fashion and an ongoing inspiration for aspiring designers. The book, written by Florence Muller, is an intimate look at the man behind the brand, emphasising Saint Laurent’s creative process, his inspirations, and the various stages of fitting and production while including original sketches, runway imagery and never-before-seen photographs of Saint Laurent at work. Muller takes the reader on a journey through Saint Laurent’s time as an aspiring designer, to the protégé of Christian Dior, right through to directing his own fashion empire that continues to thrive.

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H&M TO OPEN IN SPRING

BALL AGENCIES CONTINUE TO GROW Importer, wholesaler and fashion distributor Ball Agencies Ltd are now one of the largest in New Zealand. Rick Ball, famously known for being the drummer for New Zealand band Hello Sailor, is the owner and creator of Ball Agencies Ltd, which has successfully been supplying innovative fashion brands to boutiques, department and fashion stores throughout New Zealand and Australia for over 25 years. The company has continued to grow from strength to strength and recently amalgamated with Josephine Dickins Agencies (JDA), now becoming one under the Ball Agencies umbrella.

Rick and Josephine as a team saw the opportunity to offer more beautiful highend brands throughout New Zealand and Australia and are now the proud distributors of Day Birger et Mikkelsen, 2nd Day, Day

ET, POL, Leon and Harper, Bohemian Luxe, CULT of individuality Jeans and Kokun.

They also offer labels Stella Forest, Rabens Saloner, Charli, Baum und Pferdgarten and Custommade as an agency. The company now distributes and wholesales 16 brands, and five Agency brands.

Rick and Josephine recently attended the presentation of the Day Birger et Mikkelsen Summer 17 Collection in the 16th Century Italian Villa on Lake Como belonging to Keld Mikkelsen and Marianne.Brandi owners of the Day brand.

For more information visit www.ballagencies.com, call 09 303 3693 or email info@ballagencies.com.

FENDI CELEBRATES 90 YEARS Sealing a long-lasting bond with Rome, FENDI chose to celebrate its 90year anniversary in its hometown. A private cocktail party kicked off the festivities at the San Luca Academy inside Palazzo Carpegna, a historical Roman Palazzo hosting an artists’ association founded in 1593, just a few steps away from the Trevi Fountain, where it was launched, as a worldwide preview, the FENDI ROMA book. The book celebrated 90 years of the Maison, identity and the profound link with the city of Rome and was presented in an exclusive set up inside the exhibition area.

A fashion show followed with the Legends and Fairytales Haute Fourrure Collection, designed by Karl Lagerfeld, once more an example of the unique craftsmanship, daring creativity and expression of the excellence of the Roman Maison. Many celebrities and VIP’s attended the event. Special windows have been developed exclusively for the Palazzo FENDI boutique to celebrate the 90 years of the Maison.

International retailer H&M is set to launch its first New Zealand store in Auckland in Spring 2016. Spanning two floors, the 2,300sqm store will open in Auckland’s popular shopping destination Sylvia Park. A wide selection of the latest trends, timeless classics and inspirations for customers will be available for customers to create their personal style.

“We are eager to open the doors to the first H&M New Zealand store later this year,” said Daniel Lattemann, sales manager for H&M New Zealand. “We look forward to introducing fashionloving H&M Kiwi customers to our exciting offers, and we promise it will be worth the wait.” The store will open with the highly anticipated H&M AW16 Studio collection that for women, is an elevated collection of individual pieces rich in detail, from the precision of cut to the embroideries that appear throughout.

For the men, the bomber jacket has been reinvented, either elongated or cut at the waist in corduroy to play with traditions.

Every detail counts, from the t-shirts and fine roll necks in silk and Pima cotton, or the accessories, like mohair beanies, wool scarves and leather shoes with platform tread soles.

FOREVER 21 IN HOT WATER

International retailer, Forever 21 is in hot water for a range of clothing aimed at young boys has been deemed inappropriate and sexist. The t-shirts feature slogans like “Hola Ladies,”“Sorry ladies I only date models,” “Ladies Man,” and “Chicks are all over me.”

In response to the criticism, Forever 21 issued a statement.

“Forever 21 takes feedback and product concerns very seriously. With regards to the t-shirts in question, after receiving feedback, we have taken immediate action to have them removed from our website.

We sincerely apologise to anyone who was offended by the products.” Professor of psychology Christia Spears Brown was shocked by the company’s range.

“It sexualises children at an age when they should not be sexualised,” said Brown.

“Anything that says that only models are worthy of attention is never positive for girls.” It isn’t the first time the company has received negative feedback regarding collections. In 2011 the company also released an ‘Allergic to Algebra’ t-shirt for young girls, it was swiftly removed from the website also.

SEE US at the International Sourcing Expo, 15-17th November 2016, Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre

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NZ YARN EXHIBITS IN EUROPE

Perino by Woolyarns stand at Pitti Filati in Florence, the garments on display are the Sean Kelly capsule collection specially designed for Woolyarns.

Leading New Zealand yarn manufacturer, Woolyarns recently exhibited its latest collection of Perino yarns at Pitti Filati and Spinexpo Paris.

According to Jimad Khan, marketing manager, the trade fairs were both great successes and the exposure has positively contributed to the promotion of brushtail possum fibre, yarns and garments to the international fashion community.

Award winning designer and Project Runway Season 13 winner, Sean Kelly’s designs are a feature of the Perino by Woolyarns stand and imagery for this year. Having worked at international design houses such as Alexander

McQueen and Henrik Vibskov on both ready-towear collections and installations throughout Europe, and a New Zealander himself, Kelly was top of mind for Woolyarns when putting together their imagery.

“Collaborating with Sean Kelly was an exciting part of the process for Perino by Woolyarns Fall Winter 17/18 collection,” said Khan. “His innovative designs showcase the versatility of the yarns, creating voluminous shapes that envelop the wearer, using ribbed knit structures and a handpicked selection from the Fall Winter colour collection.” For more information visit www.perinoyarns.com.

ECOYA LAUNCHES NEW SUMMER EDITIONS

Two scents from ECOYA’s limited edition range for summer has been launched.

Sweet Papaya and Melon and a Citrus and White Magnolia have joined the collection and are available in the iconic ECOYA Madison Jar and recently released Mini Reed Diffuser. Both fragrances feature the classic metallic silver detailing and polished silver lid. Limited edition fragrances are released just twice a year and are blended with ECOYA’s natural soy wax and use pure leadfree cotton wicks, offering the most luxurious fragrance experience. Soy wax candles create significantly fewer carbon emissions than most other candles and offer a burn time of up to a third longer, as well as burning cooler than most other waxes. For more information phone 09 367 9488.

GISELE BÜNDCHEN AT OLYMPICS

Although she retired from modelling last year, Gisele Bündchen will be front and centre at this year’s Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Having not graced runways recently, the 35-year-old will walk through the venue’s gateway as part of the opening ceremony. Bündchen has recently debuted her new campaign for Givenchy Jeans and also has been attending many fashion shows to keep up appearances. The outbreak of the mosquito-borne Zika virus has no hold on the fashion industry and its fashionable people, with Louis Vuitton having staged a futuristic fashion show in Brazil earlier this year.

GETTING CLOSE TO DIGITAL WALLETS

MasterCard has introduced its MasterPass program that allows Android users to pay in bricks-and-mortar locations using contact-less payment terminals.

This launch has further developed the MasterPass payment service since it began in 2013. Consumers and retailers alike are moving towards becoming truly ‘omnichannel’ with payments being made, online, in mobile apps and now in physical retail.

According to MasterCard, there are more than five million merchants in 77

TWO YEARS STRONG After launching on their own in 2014, Andrea Basile and the team at Unique Model Management are celebrating two years in business. The agency was set up to broaden the idea of beautiful, celebrating different types of beauty that have historically been ignored.

“We’re so incredibly grateful for all the support from our amazing clients,

models and their parents. It’s been great celebrating this milestone with our next generation of models with our birthday photo shoot,” said Basile.

Because of its size, Unique has specialised in giving individualised development for its talent, alongside being able to scout specifically for the aesthetic of its clients.

countries that accept contact-less payments. MasterPass is a free digital wallet service that is designed to make online shopping safer and easier by storing all of your payment and shipping information in one convenient, central location.

It is not limited to those who have MasterCard but also open to Visa and American Express cardholders. The service is currently available in the USA. Currently available overseas, but the technology should hit New Zealand shores soon.

www.kerrylogistics.com

The Brand for Fashion & Lifestyle: Fashion is all about having your fingers on the pulse in a fast moving industry. That’s why we are the logistics choice for over 40 of the world’s top 100 brands. We provide flexible customised supply chain solutions the suit the specific needs of our customers.

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4 I July 2016

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HOSPITAL ROBES GET DESIGNER MAKEOVER

A new initiative that sees Canadian designers design and create hospital gowns for young patients at the Children’s Hospital of Eastern Ontario in Canada has been extremely well received.

Nobody likes being in a hospital, and these teens spend a lot of time there wearing shapeless, standard-issue, paleblue hospital gowns. This all changed in May when patients were invited to comb through racks of new gowns in different colours and fabrics featuring designs like camouflage, drawings of animals, lightning bolts, skulls among others.

Six Canadian artists including an embroidery designer, a tattoo artist and fashion designers created the unique gowns, and no two looked the same, leaving patients to feel like an individual again with personality and not just a patient in a hospital bed. The project was created by ad agency Rethink Canada in partnership with the Starlight Children’s Foundation.

“I was pumped, and now I feel stylish. This is way better than just cookie-cutter everything that you usually see in hospitals.

Anything that helps you regain your personality is a great thing in a hospital environment,” one patient said, who chose a gown made by locally-based designer Raegan Hall that was black and white using similar designs to an Ouija board.

The gowns donated are the start of a campaign that the foundation and Rethink are hoping to expand to more hospitals across the country and perhaps international both through donations and by convincing designers to donate their time.

POKEMON LURES IN CUSTOMERS

Following the launch of the Pokemon Go app in New Zealand (a game where players have to walk around the streets of New Zealand to find little monsters to collect), stores and cafes around the country breathed a sigh of relief as foot traffic around towns increased dramatically. Amazon Surf Stores were quick to jump on this bandwagon by adding ‘lures’ to close-by Pokestops (a somewhat ‘pitstop’ for players to pick up items for the game) that attracted gamers into the store.

Not only could gamers find rare Pokemon to catch but also were incentivised to buy.

“We had players walk in almost without

looking where they were going, heads down and looking at their screens,” said Amazon Surf general manager Jason Neely. “But once in the store, they were excited to find that they could get discounts on product and earn the chance to win Pokecoins [coins used in the game for in-app purchases] in the process.” The promotion branded Pokezon, gave players who catch a Pokemon in-store a discount of between 20 and 30 percent depending on the level of the Pokemon character they caught. Or those who grabbed a screenshot of a Pokemon chilling in store and then published it on Instagram with the hashtags #PokeZon and #PokemonGo were put into the draw to win the opportunity for 14,500 Pokecoins to spend in-game and be closer to becoming a Pokemon Master. The social campaign has already been worth its weight in purchases.

“Seeing foot traffic more than double within minutes of joining the game has been exciting,” said Neely. “Our Dunedin store added a lure to a Pokestop at the entrance of the store and within minutes we were flooded by Pokemon hunters. Augmented reality is an incredibly powerful technology that has been around for a while but just waiting for something like PokemonGo to bring it to the masses. I have no doubt it will help reshape retail, and we’re hoping that Amazon Surf will be at the cutting edge.”

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BALDWIN ADDS DESIGNER TO CV

ZARA GETS KEYS TO SYLVIA PARK

International retailer Zara has been handed keys to its new home in Kiwi Property’s Sylvia Park. Kiwi Property has constructed the shell of a brand new 2,528-sqm store, and Zara will commence fitting out its first New Zealand store. With the store set to open to the public this spring, the brand will join a range of national and international retailers in one of the best shopping destinations in the country.

“The new site, located in the heart of Sylvia Park, has an extensive storefront which is five times the size of one of our standard fashion retailers,” said Kiwi Property’s general manager for retail Karl Retief. “Sylvia

Park with Zara will offer shoppers a world-class experience.” The company has invested $11.5 million in creating Zara’s new store in an eight-month development programme. “We are always looking to innovate at Kiwi Property to ensure we’re delivering the very best experience for our shoppers.

It brings us great pleasure to offer world renowned brands, like Zara, and we are thrilled to be chosen as the first choice of the New Zealand retail centres for this outstanding brand.”

Sylvia Park has seen many new retailers open at the centre in recent months including Lush and Converse, with Nike and Kiehls coming soon. Later this year, New Zealand’s first H&M store will also be opening at the site.

A FIRST FOR THE SENSES Perino is a first in cashmere, merino and silk yarn blends with New Zealand Brushtail Possum. www.perinoyarns.com

6 I July 2016

Top model Hailey Baldwin has recently launched her capsule collection for Australian label, The Daily Edited, adding fashion designer onto her expanding CV. The new collection, called #theHAILEYedited will also feature Baldwin in the campaign, and as the face of the luxury label and includes accessories such as tote bags, bucket bags, clutches, passport holders and cosmetic cases.

Baldwin told The Daily Mail that she was excited about the line which she has been involved with since the original sketch all the way through to details like the leather, hardware and the colour palette. “This is the first time I have ever designed my capsule collection,” said Baldwin. “Something I have always wanted to do. My life isn’t as simple as it used to be, the attention on me is a lot more,” she told The Daily Mail. “Now I have to be very responsible, I have a job, I have to travel, and I have to take care of myself.”

VIRTUAL REALITY SHOPPING

Forget online shopping being a blow to retailers, virtual reality is the latest technology to sweep the industry. One of the largest online marketplace companies Alibaba Group Holding Ltd has planned to launch a demonstration virtual reality store which could be rolled out by the end of the year. Shoppers wearing the virtual reality helmet can walk around a digital store and rotate any item around as if they were picking it up in reality. Robotic shop assistants are on hand to inform the shopper about the product and then they can click the ‘buy’ button to make a purchase.

Virtual reality headgear will need to be provided by the customer, however.

“Integrating virtual reality to e-commerce is in its nascent stages,” said Sharon Chan, a spokeswoman at Alibaba. “It’s not just VR, but integrating cutting edge technology while reinventing the shopping experience.”

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COPYCAT ZARA IN TROUBLE

ZARA

BASSEN

Shameless copying isn’t something new to international retail giant Zara. In the latest debacle, Zara has been accused of copying Indie artist Tuesday Bassen, using her copyright – protected work, including various original pins that the company has allegedly copied and affixed to many garments.

Bassen told The Fashion Law that in 2015 she began making LA-produced clothing, based on her original

illustrations that she has been creating for several years prior. Fans of the artist had sent her messages and images of the copies, and she took these to a lawyer.

Zara responded saying that her work was too simple.

“We reject your claims here for reasons similar to those already stated above.

The lack of distinctiveness of your client’s purported designs makes it very hard to see how a significant part of the population anywhere in the world would associate the signs with Tuesday Bassen,” said Zara’s counsel in a letter to Bassen’s lawyer. “No one would know it was me because Zara gets 98,000,000 visitors and I’m an independent artist,” said Bassen.

Despite having a substantial case, Bassen doesn’t’ have the resources to fight the retail giant, whose owner, Amancio Ortega, occupies the number two spot on Forbes’ Richest People in the World list.

CHILDREN IN BIKINIS – YES OR NO?

California-based clothing company Hot as Hell debuted its 2017 collection at Miami Fashion Week this year. During the show, school-aged models wore the swimsuits down the runway, some of which were ‘itsybitsy’. Criticism was quickly received following photos surfacing on social media of the show with users voicing opinions about how little girls should not be dressed like their adult counterparts or be considered ‘hot’.

HANDBAG USING HUMAN SKIN

Is growing a human skin in a lab and using it for handbags creepy?

Student Tina Gorjanc doesn’t think so and will be showcasing handbags and other designer accessories made using the skin of celebrated couture designer Alexander McQueen. Gorjanc has filed a patent for the method that would see McQueen’s DNA cell cultures grow in a lab and the skin cells extracted, resulting in the remaking of his skin into leather for luxury goods. This isn’t the first attempt to grow artists’ flesh in the name of art with a living clone of Van Gogh’s ear having been regrown with DNA obtained form a member of the Van Gogh family.

Although scientists have said this is theoretically possible, it would be difficult to produce enough McQueen skin to make a full accessories line.

GORE READY FOR FASHION

Models have been fitted with garments ahead of this year’s Hokonui Fashion Design Awards in Gore. This year they have had over 200 entrants across seven sections, totalling over 300 garments. The wardrobe team have been hard at work cataloguing each item into the sections and adding reference numbers for the database and the event’s programme. “It was a big job, but the progress has been pretty good so far,” said awards convenor Wade Paterson. Garments that aren’t up to award standard or that have been seen before will be eliminated. The judging panel for 2016 includes Auckland designers Lela Jacobs and Jimmy D, Kingston’s Jane Sutherland and Annah Stretton. The Hokonui Fashion Design Awards will be held in Gore on July 29 and 30.

PHOTO CREDIT: www.venturesouthland.co.nz.

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SNAP AND BUY

Visa Europe has launched a new advanced image-recognition scanner that will allow user’s smartphones to identify a piece of clothing, find it in the right size and purchase immediately.

The new technology, which will be released in partnership with augmented reality app Blippar, was trialled at the latest House of Holland’s menswear show in London, where audience members could scan what model Rafferty Law was wearing and purchase instantly. “The technology could transform the way we purchase items because we will soon be able to whip out our phones to detect what a passer-by is wearing,” said a spokesperson for Blippar.

Brooke Roberts and Gintare Zukauskaite working on a robot mannequin.

TECHNOLOGY WEEK

London’s best technology and design teams have been commissioned by the Mayor of London’s office as part of London Technology Week. On display were works including robots, holograms and couture.

Part of the showcase included a specific category dedicated to fashion, which included 3D-printed dresses and a digital mannequin which uses a hologram generated talking head.

“It’s a huge honour to be giving fashion, science and tech collaborators in London an opportunity to showcase what they’re doing and show how innovative we can be when we come together,” said Brooke Roberts, fashion designer and blogger, who was also the curator of the showcase.

Alongside curating the show, Roberts also designed a range of knitwear using a machine that reads brain scans and translates them into patterns. Roberts also worked with Holborn-based 3D digital firm Holition to bring to life a robot mannequin that had stop-motion couture pieces projected onto it from the likes of Issey Miyake and Gianni Versace. “This isn’t just about wearables and gadgets, we’re thinking about highconcept couture, high-end fashion and how this could work with technology,” said Roberts.

Aside from style focussed innovation, the Royal College of Art also showcased a Bruise Suit, which detects injuries in athletes with disabilities that have led to the loss of sensation in parts of their bodies. The suit identifies where the athletes have been hurt by applying a recyclable pressure-sensitive film to the skin to indicate the severity of the injury.

“London is a world leader in fashion, creative arts and design. When you combine this with the city’s growing technology sector, it is no surprise to see London at the centre of the fashion technology movement,” said Gordon Innes, chief executive, London & Partners.

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8 I July 2016

APP BUILDER

PredictSpring, a startup helping businesses design mobile app platforms has raised over $11million in funding. The company has worked with big name brands including Calvin Klein, Cole Haan, and Nine West, boasting increased conversion rates of 200 to 300 percent. “For loyal customers who are repeat purchasers and high spenders, an app provides them with a very rich and first-class experience that mobile web doesn’t provide,” said Nitin Mangtani, chief executive officer, PredictSpring.

The funding will help the company grow its app building capabilities while also investigating new technologies around enhancing instore experiences for its clients and their customers, including geofenced notifications, barcode scanners and new apps for salespeople to use when looking up information about products.

Myntra offices in Bangalore

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TECHNOLOGY TAKEOVER

Indian fashion e-commerce company, Myntra, has acquired the Bengalurubased Cubeit for an undisclosed amount in another technology focussed takeover.

Cubeit focuses on building mobile applications designed to aggregate content from a specific source, with Myntra set to use the technology for its own brand.

“As part of the acquisition, the team at Cubeit has been inducted into Myntra, making it an acquihire that will further strengthen and expand Myntra’s technology team,” said a representative for Myntra. This marks Myntra’s third technology led acquisition, having already acquired the mobile app development company, Native5 in May 2015, and the technology solutions company Fitiquette in April 2013.

“Technology is at the core of our operations, and we are looking at leveraging it to enhance customer experience further through social and community interactions on our platforms,” said Shamik Sharma, chief product and technology officer, Myntra. Myntra was established in 2007, specialising in fashion and casual lifestyle products and is owned by parent company Flipkart, which is a broader selection e-commerce provider also in India.

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ADIDAS CALLS OUT SKECHERS

FOOTWEAR FOR THE PEOPLE

After launching the initiative in 2013, Merchant 1948 (formerly Overland) has just surpassed the $600,000 mark in charity donations. For the last three years the company has been giving $5 for every pair of Deuce Generation sneakers sold to its Young Hearts Project, which donates the money to both Great Potentials and Youthline charities. “I don’t know where time goes. When we launched the Young Hearts Project, every dollar raised seemed momentous. So I can’t believe we’ve now reached $600,000 thanks to the loyal customers,” said Shane Anselmi, managing director, Overland Footwear.

Adidas has filed a patent infringement suit against Skechers. The company claims that Skechers’ Mega Flex design is stolen from the design of Adidas’ Springblade shoe. Both shoes feature a series of blade-like structures that run underneath the sole of the shoe. The design provides a “high energy return” to runners, according to the suit, and “sense of buoyancy, even when you’re walking”. “We will not stand by and allow others to blatantly copy our products and infringe on our valuable intellectual property,” Adidas said in a statement. “We are the leader in footwear innovation, design, and engineering, creating high performance shoes for athletes. This pattern of unlawful behaviour and freeloading in the industry is outrageous and must end. We will take every legal measure possible to protect and defend our innovations.” Nike has also filed a patent infringement suit against Skechers earlier this year. Skechers have seen significant growth in recent years and sales for 2015 totalled $3.1 billion, a 32 percent increase on the previous year. Skechers said it does not comment on pending litigation.

KNIT SHOES FROM RECYCLED BOTTLES

San Francisco-based startup Rothy’s are making shoes from plastic water bottles. The company uses a proprietary process to 3D-knit the fibre into a seamless, essentially waste-free shoe that takes six minutes to produce. As Rothy’s started developing shoes that were better than other shoes on the market they realised they also wanted to make the shoe more sustainable and found that they could dramatically reduce the materials that are normally thrown out in construction. “A tremendous amount of scrap goes into landfills,” said Roth Martin, cofounder and chief creative officer of the startup. “Our process allows us to knit three-dimensional parts that use the exact amount of material that they need in order to create the part. So like an inkjet printer, it draws just the amount of ink that it needs to complete that task, and then it repeats the task as needed.”

STRAIGHT FROM SHEEP TO FEET

Using the wool from her Gotland sheep from the family farm in the Northern part of Denmark in 1993, Nanny Glerup handcrafted a pair of felted indoor shoes that were loved by family and friends so much that the hobby quickly turned into a small-scale production. Over the following years, Nanny and her husband Ove worked hard to improve Glerups footwear. Through tenacity and inventiveness, numerous machines were developed to keep up with the growing demand. Today, after 23 years of research and development, Glerups have perfected the wool mix. This has been achieved by blending Gotland wool with quality wool from New Zealand farmers including Landcorp farms and has had positive feedback from wearers especially in today’s market where consumers want to know the underlying values and ethics of brands and more importantly the source of raw materials that goes into products.

New Zealand farmers meet Glerups high standards for consistent quality and humane animal welfare, with the base product being fully traceable.

The unique feature of felted wool sees therapeutic benefits when they are worn directly against the skin.

The 16mm felted wool top, and the vegetable tanned calfskin soles offer maximum thermal insulation. This level of insulation is far greater than a single layer of sheepskin. The brand’s loyal following know that the 100 percent pure natural wool shoes are still handcrafted with love and care from sheep to feet.

Glerups are widely distributed throughout New Zealand by Danish by design and in Australia by design Denmark. Future stockists are invited to contact glerups@ danishbydesign.co.nz.

Beautiful - Natural - Warm - Traceable - Indoor Shoes

For stockists go to 0800 GLERUPS (45 37 877)

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SIXTH SEASON LAUNCH

August will see New Zealand brand Parisian launch its sixth season of accessories featuring Liberty Art Fabrics. The Parisian X Liberty project links four generations of traditional tie making expertise in New Zealand with the rich history of the world’s most famous print collection in London. Drawing from the extensive Liberty Archive, the collection features iconic floral and paisleys and also showcases the thematic conversational designs from Liberty’s latest seasonal release.

This year’s theme, Castaway, is inspired by the imaginings and solitary musings from a deserted tropical island. This charming collection captures the enchanting world of aquatic flora and fauna, vast ocean horizons and a menagerie of tropical delights. For its first collection, Parisian dug into its archive to revive the Batwing self-tie bow pattern with its straight paddle ends that shape into a bow that is as unique as its wearer. This season, sparked by a recent discovery of an old pair of English braces, they are introducing fabric braces into the collection. And of course, with Parisian, every item is carefully crafted here in New Zealand.

MOBILE STUDIO

OFFCUT TEAMS WITH SWANNDRI

New Zealand cap manufacturer Offcut has teamed up with classic Kiwi brand Swanndri for another limited edition collection. This will be the fifth collection with Swanndri as Offcut continue their bid to reduce fabric waste.

The Christchurch based business makes caps from the remnants of fabrics and unused samples, end of line and misprinted fabrics that are destined for landfill.

ACCESSORY ALERT

10 I July 2016

American menswear brand, J. Hillburn, has started a four-month long journey in its mobile studio, having unveiled it during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. The studio, which is housed in a small tractortrailer will travel across America visiting more than 30 cities over the next four months.

“This is a big imitative for the brand.

Anytime we have a physical event; it draws in new customers who spend more on suits and sports coats,” said Veeral Rathod, president and co-founder, J. Hilburn.

While the brand is known for its various pop-up stores, Rathod said the mobile studio is more cost effective and drives curiosity.

During the two days it was parked at NZFW, the studio invited various editors, buyers and fashion influences to visit the space, charge their electronics and have a shirt custom fitted with the company’s new fitting technology, TAPE, which uses proprietary algorithms based on customer input to create individual measurements.

Having launched its Kickstarter campaign in early July, LMTLS is the latest accessories brand to utilise the growing trend of crowdfunding. After struggling to find a stylish, unique and affordable style of watch, founder Marcus McClure set out to develop his own.

To date, LMTLS has amassed over 13,000 followers on Instagram and Facebook, a majority of which have all expressed positive feedback and anticipation for the launch.

“Our brand represents New Zealand natural beauty. We are very green which is why we decided to incorporate wood into our watches. It also makes them unique as there is nothing on the market like ours,” said McClure. The goal is to produce a product

NEW COUNCIL DIRECTORS

The British Fashion Council (BFC) has announced three new non-executive directors to its board, including British GQ editor and London Fashion Week Men’s chairman, Dylan Jones. Dame Natalie Massenet, founder of Net-a-Porter and chairman of the council, said Jones represented the voice of menswear in the UK and is an excellent addition to the team.

Jones said he would use his position to ensure London is not only known as the home of the best creative talent but also the place for fashion businesses to grow. Chief executive officer of Farfetch, José Neves and chief executive officer of the Guardian Media Group, David Pemsel, also joined the team, in a strategic move to broaden the reach of the council.

“All three are leaders in their field, innovators and strategists and will play significant roles in ensuring London leads in design, business, technology, and communication in fashion,” said Massenet.

Veeral Rathod, president and co-founder, J. Hillburn

that not only meets McClure’s requirements of being stylish and unique, but LMTLS is also priced at a level that is accessible to a broad range of customers.

The Kickstarter campaign starts at $95 with free shipping, and will increase to a regular retail price of $140 post-Kickstarter. Based in Wellington, McClure works directly with the manufacturer to cut out the middleman and ensures every watch meets his high expectation for a quality watch. “LMTLS is about success. Opportunities in life are limitless, and if you put in the work, you are bound to succeed. We are looking to take on the watch world and punch above our weight just like New Zealand does on the international stage,” said McClure.

The straps are made from genuine leather, with the internals powered by a ultra-slim high-quality Japanese movement and are available in classic black, tan, tan with a black face, and vintage brown rosewood.

LISTENING TO RETAILER NEEDS

Lichfield’s latest collection is the culmination of honouring the past and looking to the future. The Lichfield team is excited to share its winter 2017 collection with retailers during the coming months. This range in particular is a reflection of the new direction that managing director, Geoff Alcock is proud to share with his valued retailers.

“Over the next 18 months Lichfield will make its move in the market to progress itself to a leader in its category of menswear,” said Alcock. A mix of innovative ideas and listening to the retailers have been the basis of the range and what the company feels will assist their business moving into the future. “Manufacturing is straightforward, it’s about knowing where the market is heading, and meeting the needs of the customer.”

Style is everything and Lichfield is determined to be at the forefront of menswear in New Zealand and Australia. For more information call +64 3 339 0790.

TRANSITION TO TRAVEL

Luxury footwear retailer Harrys of London has announced a new range of travel focussed bags including briefcases, suitcases, and overnight bags. The range is made from fine Italian Nappa leather and rubberised Italian calfskin while implementing patented gel cushioning in the handles of the briefcases for added comfort and as padding on pockets to protect any items in the weekend duffel. Alongside the bags Harrys of London has released a range of small leather goods which include wallets, card holders, and phone cases.

NEW BURBERRY BOSS

After two turbulent years of running the business, Christopher Bailey has been replaced as chief executive by Celine boss, Marco Gobbetti. Following the announcement, shares in the company jumped 8 percent, with shareholders previously voicing their concerns around Bailey’s performance. The Marco Gobbetti, new chief appointment means Bailey will be able to return to executive officer for Burberry his role as president and chief creative officer.

“Christopher has done an excellent job set against a backdrop of challenging market conditions, but we identified the need for a new chief executive for the business who could partner with him,” said Sir John Peace, chairman, Burberry. Gobbetti has been at the helm of LVMH-owned Celine since 2008 and has experience as chief executive of Givenchy four years before that.

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CATCHING THE RED EYE TREND GET THE LOOK WITH RIMMEL

Beauty brand Rimmel has launched a new app called ‘Get the Look’ for its UK customers. The app lets users try on makeup looks from the streets and magazines by assessing the image and utilising Rimmel’s beauty database to match the makeup shade. Rimmel has disclosed it will look for a retail partner to launch the app with in future. Once users have taken a picture of a look they love and uploaded it to the app, it acts as a personalised augmented-reality mirror that allows them to virtually try a look using colour-matched cosmetics by Rimmel, with an option to purchase.

The latest beauty hack to surface on Youtube to fix dark circles under the eye has been to use red lipstick. Despite it being the last thing you may use under your eye the process consists of applying lipstick with red or pink undertones as a base for a concealer. It is not recommended for people with sensitive skin and although works for beauty bloggers, the red tones may not be so secret for everyday users.

DONKEY MILK ON THE RISE

Skincare is one thing that Korean culture has become famous for with women having skincare routines of up to ten steps. But when it comes to the routine and the products, Korean beauty brands can feature some rather interesting packaging and ingredients. Back home in New Zealand consumers are familiar with that of bee venom, sea kelp and possibly even the new snail slime in products. However, the Koreans have thrown a curveball into the beauty industry with the addition of donkey milk. Sheet masks and creams that are skyrocketing in sales are made from real-life donkey milk.

Why, do you ask? Donkey milk is so gentle it has been used as a substitute for breast milk for infants and according to the International Dairy Journal, it’s tolerated by 90 percent of infants with food allergies.

Not only does it have four times the amount of vitamin C than cow’s milk but is also hydrating and brightening for skin. It is believed to help with eczema, acne and psoriasis. It won’t just be Cleopatra and her milk baths anymore.

INSY WINSY LIP ART

In recent weeks, lip art has been having a moment.

The internet has been flooded with everything from Disney creations to bumblebees and geometric shapes. Makeup artist, Violette has given this trend her spin by using her lips as a canvas as she drew on tiny tattoos (using removable makeup). This could be the next biggest thing on the red carpet possibly a good one for Miley Cyrus?

12 I July 2016

KYLIE COSMETICS UNDER REVIEW

Kylie Cosmetics has dodged a bullet from the US Better Business Bureau (BBB) swiftly moving to a ‘no rating’ after initially being rated an ‘F’ by the Bureau. The BBB is a non-profit organisation focused on advancing marketplace trust, consisting of 12 independently incorporated local organisations in the US and Canada. It provides free business reviews on more than four million businesses to over 123 million requests from consumers in 2013 alone. The change from an F to ‘No Rating’ came after fans, and customers of Kylie Cosmetics spoke out about the poor rating.

“The BBB has looked into the facts and changed the rating,” said Kylie Jenner in a statement. “I’ve sold millions of lip kits and any complaint we have received to date has been addressed promptly. I’m sick and tired of people coming for my business.”

It has been reported that 134 complaints have been logged against Kylie Cosmetics, 70 involved delivery issues, and 55 regarded product or service. Kylie Cosmetics spoke openly about the steps it is taking to modify the packaging to combat the problem of them being highly recognisable and often stolen and vandalised. Kylie Jenner posted a sneak peek of an empty retail space suggesting that Kylie Cosmetics might be opening a store of its own in the coming months.

POKEMON NAIL ART

Following the launch of the mobile Pokemon Go app, Pokemon has had a second round at being the musthave game. The new app allows users to explore their neighbourhoods and find the creatures using GPS. People have been downloading the app and flooding streets to try and be the ultimate Pokemon trainer. It is currently the highest grossing app in Apple’s App Store.

Alongside this, there have been many trends resurfacing, as well as new ones, like Pokemon nail art. Gotta catch ‘em all (on your nails).

column

The Copying Conundrum – is it all bad?

Copying is an age-old trend in the fashion industry. Coco Chanel once said “if you want to be original, be ready to be copied”.

The increasing speed of ‘fast-fashion’

High-street brands like Zara and H&M are known for their remarkable ability to convert runway looks into mass-produced and low-priced garments, a concept commonly known as ‘fast-fashion’. And fast fashion is getting faster - new technologies are closing the gap between Fashion Week and the latest high-street offerings.

In Chanel’s time, copycats would have to sketch designs from memory after fashion shows and send them to offshore factories to be made into garments, a process that took months. Today’s fast-fashion retailers can simply take a photo of runway models and have ‘inspired-by’ garments on their racks within weeks.

Kanye West, who released the third instalment of his fashion collection ‘Yeezy’ at NY Fashion Week earlier this year, fears the shoes he’s designed will one day be 3D printed at home. He likened the effect that 3D printing could have on the textiles industry to how “the internet destroyed the music industry.”

But is copying a necessary evil?

3D printing aside, there is an argument that fastfashion could benefit the fashion industry. Co-author of ‘The Knockoff Economy’, Christopher Sprigman, claims that copying is “fuel that runs the fashion cycle,

and by making the fashion cycle go faster, it helps the apparel industry sell more stuff.”

There is also the view that, in this culture of copying, high-fashion brands not only survive but thrive. Imperfect copies arguably enhance the status of the ‘real deal’. Also brand-loyal customers will continue to purchase genuine items so as to stand out from the crowd that is clad in would-be outfits.

Imitation could, in fact, build brand allegiance.

Protection in New Zealand

Whether the ‘necessary evil’ argument is true or not, New Zealand law prohibits copying. Designers of original fabrics and garments in New Zealand own the copyright in those designs as ‘graphic works’ under the Copyright Act 1993.

Copyright infringement occurs when a person copies a substantial part of a work that is protected by copyright without the owner’s consent. Pulling apart a garment and recreating it (‘reverse engineering’) would be infringing the rights of the original designer.

So too would copying a distinctive fabric design.

Australia is different – Australian copyright law doesn’t protect design drawings for garments that are mass produced (different for a one-off piece) and so designers generally cannot take action against ‘reverseengineering’ of such garments unless they have taken steps to register the designs, which most do not.

Other legal protections, such as ‘passing off’ and trade mark infringement, can also be used to combat copycats. But the beauty of copyright is that it is an automatic right; no registration is required.

Not all copying is illegal though. Proving originality in fashion can be challenging. As Amanda Priestly,

the formidable editor in The Devil Wears Prada, witheringly said, “Florals? For spring? Ground breaking”.

Using samples or existing prints as inspiration is generally accepted in the fashion industry. The question is whether an important or distinctive part of the original work has been copied, which is not acceptable. Importantly, there are no hard and fast rules here: the so-called ‘10% rule’ is a myth.

Designers should also be aware of the territorial scope of copyright laws. Not all rules are the same: many other countries don’t have the same level of intellectual property protection as New Zealand does – as noted above, reverse-engineering garments is infringing in NZ but might not be in Australia.

So, before entering offshore markets designers should ensure they have adequate protection for their work and/or freedom to use their brands.

However you look at it, the fashion industry is to some extent dependent on designers taking inspiration from others. Replication, derivation and reinvention is what allows the fashion industry to flourish.

By Mark Gavin Partner Hudson Gavin Martin mark.gavin@hgmlegal.com

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BEACH BRAINS

Hailing from the world of visual arts, designer Gareth Hemmings fell in love with creating clothes after his sister got him to design some menswear for her brand. Captivated by the idea of designing, he launched the surfinspired label Beach Brains and moved to Auckland from the Coromandel to start building the brand.

Hemmings spent his university career studying visual arts at Auckland University of Technology where he embraced the art student life of partying, creating art and having fun. “I think of cool as a circle; it has no pinnacle or peak. Every single person has something interesting or valuable to offer,” said Hemmings.

While he does not sew any of the pieces himself, a close relationship with his pattern maker ensures the artistic vision is brought to life for his friends and customers to enjoy. Often designs can come from only words which are then translated and manifested into product.

A surf shed in a small surf town is the dream for Hemmings, who is not concerned with mass production, and would rather design clothes that fit the niche surf market. That being said he does want to grow the brand to the point where he could re-invest in the next generation of surfers and develop ethical production methods that are environmentally friendly.

ALLERTON

For many designers, fashion runs in the blood, exposure at a young age that sparks a lifelong dream of turning creativity into wearable products.

Allerton designer Pirra Griffiths started designing clothes for her dolls as a child before transitioning to making bikinis for herself and friends in high school.

Fuelled by watching her grandmother run her lingerie and foundations company, Bettina Foundations, she knew a career in fashion was the perfect fit for her. A fashion design degree from the Sydney University of Technology equipped her with the formal skills to push her designs to the next level, with experience working for major Australian swimwear labels Tigerlily and Jets Swimwear giving her the tools she needed to launch her line.

The designs for Allerton are drawn from art and photography, infused with the mood and feeling of Griffiths. She works closely with a local factory in Sydney to produce the line, with sketching, design, and pattern making happening hand in hand to develop the collections.

“I love swimwear because it combines fashion and function. Creating garments which are required to not only fit impeccably but also be on trend is part of the challenge, which I love,” said Griffiths.

At the heart of the brand are core values of promoting a strong, sexy, healthy, and independent woman who never compromises quality and is invested in fair trade practices that are safe and ethical on the environment.

Having already secured high-profile stockists including The Iconic and Beachlife Australia, the brand shows no signs of stopping, with international availability already secured through House of Fraser in the UK as well as being available directly online through the Allerton website.

14 I July 2016

ED&I

Careful consideration has been given to the products coming out of swimwear brand Ed&I, founded by designer Edna Swart. Each piece is designed to minimise tan lines, but keep enough coverage so that the customer can still be active on the beach and in the water.

Having moved to New Zealand from South Africa with her family in the mid-nineties, she pursued her interests in fashion and modelling throughout her schooling years before catching the travelling bug and ending up back in her home country.

The environment triggered an interest in business, prompting her to study finance in New Zealand, an area in which she worked for a while before starting the brand.

“Throughout the years, I followed fashion blogs, posted my fashion interests on various social media platforms and always had an opinion on current trends and designers. Fashion has always come naturally to me,” said Swart.

The collection was sketched and designed by Swart, who had them sampled locally in New Zealand before sending them to a boutique manufacturer in Bali, using high-quality material made from eco recycled fabrics. She strives to create garments that remain timeless, having become fed up with spending money on items that fall out of fashion in one season.

For now, the range is available exclusively online, but Swart is considering the opportunity to expand into and collaborate with other boutique retail locations that fall in line with the brand image.

TRIANGL

SIMMA

Transitioning from sculpture and performance art was a natural change for designer Victoria Carran, who has always known fashion as just another art form she would inevitably end up persuing. Having studied fine arts at Auckland Unversity’s Elam art school, her interest in fashion was not well received. Determined to get experience, however, she started taking production internships with New Zealand designers during her studies to equip herself with the practical skills to bring a brand to life.

“My mother helped me explore my creativity from a young age, she tried for a long time to get me to start a brand when I was as young as 13; I wish I had done it. We definitely have an entrepreneurial family, and I think I will always be striving to do my own thing,” said Carran.

The opportunity has presented itself again, however, with Carran set to launch her brand Simma Studios in September with the support of her friends and partner, who also works in the fashion industry.

Simma Studios is a swimwear line specialising in producing options that are comfortable and appealing to a range of shapes and sizes. The range is designed with seamless construction allowing for flatter edges that transition from swimsuit to body smoother.

“I’ve designed my suits to form the body; the cuts are simple, elegant and empowering.”

The first collection will be available online through the brand’s website in September, and as the brand grows Carran hopes to introduce the range to new retailers and possibly open a retail store.

While she would love to produce the garments herself, the specific machinery and skills required to produce high-quality swimwear are out of reach for Carran, who has decided to work with a specialised Australian manufacturer so she knows her customers are getting the best.

TRIANGL

TRIANGL

A professional football player and e-commerce expert have come together to form Triangl, a swimwear brand specialising in neoprene bikinis. The company was founded by Erin Deering and Craig Ellis, a couple who had met not long before the brand begun. Deering had experience working with various Melbourne-based brands, specialising in e-commerce and managing the front end of the online stores while Ellis had an 11-year history playing professional football before running his own t-shirt label and designing denim.

“Both Craig and I are very hands-on in the development of each collection.

We design every piece ourselves and test the fit before they go to our factory for production,” said Deering. While the pair both grew up in Melbourne, they are now based in Monaco with offices around the globe managing different aspects of the business. They both have a heavy focus on providing the best customer service which led to the implementation of a 24/7 live chat module on their website allowing customers to interact with someone whenever they need.

The stock is currently only available online through the brand’s website, with the pair still working on further product development. Although, they are not ignoring the possibilities for international wholesaling and starting a physical retail space.

Inspiration for the designs is drawn from both customer feedback and the pair’s travels, something they have been doing for a majority of this year.

BADEAUX

Having already tested the market of vintage fashion with her previous product Girls Money Club, retailer Lisa Moriarty is back in the game with her latest e-commerce store, Badeaux.

Skills learnt studying creative industries at Auckland University of Technology have paid dividends in running her own creative store that specialises in finding and selling vintage goods in a carefully curated editorial style that is single-handedly managed

by Moriarty.

“I curate the store, style, cast the models and shoot all the product. It is a lot of work, but I am a real control freak and enjoying having the final say over things,” said Moriarty.

An early appreciation for thrifting learnt from her father is a huge influence in her buying process, having spent a lot of her childhood fishing out bargains at the likes of SaveMart and local charity stores to recreate different trends that were emerging.

As is the nature of vintage and second-hand clothing, quality investment pieces are a huge focus for the brand. Pieces are

often from a time where fashion design was a slower process, and a purchase would survive in a customer’s wardrobe for years, being worn countless times for multiple occasions.

For Moriarty, the documentary The True Cost opened her eyes to the issue of fast-fashion and served as fuel for her desire to become an advocate for reducing toxic waste produced by modern day fashion companies by only purchasing pre-loved items.

“I believe it is important that clothes are made to last, and this is reflected in vintage pieces in a way that you cannot identify within most clothing today.”

While the store is only in its infantry, the goal is to build it up enough to bring more people into the business and spread the word about the possibilities of second-hand clothing.

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I 15

colour trending

trop para Picture this, a warm tropical island, sounds of the ocean in the background, sipping a Pina Colada while soaking up the sun.

While the fantasy might not be entirely real, designers have honed in on a tropical paradise as their inspiration for this season, putting forward designs best suited for your favourite beach resort.

The beach was a heavy focus for Dsquared2, having introduced the concept in its menswear range and continuing through its women’s collection. The show was set against a backdrop of waves and featured a variety of swimwear options ranging from sporty one-pieces through to slinky bikinis. Designers Dean and Dan Caten played to their strengths, focussing on their sexy and sporty aesthetic while mixing in boyish pants to equalise the collection. While there were a lot of colours flying around the collection, a pop of red, akin to that of Resene Poppy, stood out amongst the rest.

True to style, Fausto Puglisi showcased a range of inspirations, unable to settle on one core concept, rather drawing on a range of influences in what could only be described as a design explosion. However, that does not mean the collection was bad. Much like other designers, the collection is powerful piece by piece, making it a commercial success. There was a subtle hint to thoughts of the tropics, with a coconut tree motif embroidered onto this structured skirt, and paired with a multitextured cardigan with a striking red, similar to Resene Red Hot.

Dsquared² Resene Poppy

16 I July 2016

No 21 Resene Shirley Temple

It might seem like a strange combination, but No. 21 designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua has paired his love for grunge with the demand for luxury clothing while throwing in a tropical undertone.

“I liked this mix of beautiful 1930s silhouette, an elegant dress, taken someplace casual,” said Dell’Acqua. The word casual is used freely with the clothes remaining in the luxury category. Tropical prints, like the one used in this oversized jumper, feature a strong orange colour mimicking a sunset on the horizon that is parallel to Resene’s Shirley Temple.

Much like he did for his namesake brand, Fausto Puglisi explored the same floral and tropical influences in his range for Emanuel Ungaro. The silhouettes were long and lean, implementing silk blouses in various prints with midi skirts and thick belts. Leopard print featured alongside tropical green jacquard, akin in colour to Resene Wishlist, all grounded with strong use of black through the entire collection.

Immediately greeted by a custom-made neon sign reading “you’re obviously in the wrong place,” guests at the Off-White show witnessed what was a display of pop-culture infused with somewhat minimal and precise design. Designer Virgil Abloh continued to push his agenda to bring streetwear to the runway, while continuously reminding himself to design clothes that “are more than a t-shirt,” said Abloh. The beige coat in a colour similar to Resene Howlin Wolf was a testament to Alboh’s mission to provide high-fashion streetwear options

Off-White Resene Howlin Wolf

Sonia Rykiel Resene Optimist

behind the business

ical dise that are easily worn by a range of customers.

The designs from Prada were as complex as their explanation, with a range of textiles and silhouettes coming down the runway that told a story of self-reflection and included motifs from a range of inspirations.

“Everything is symbolic. It is like a collage of what is happy or painful, of whether you are feeling beautiful or horrible, when you have love or no love. I thought of it as like someone who has all the clothes she’s ever had on the floor in front of her in the morning, and she must choose how she’s going to assemble herself,” said designer Miuccia Prada.

This sentiment paved the way for different prints to feature throughout the range, including the graphic floral shirt in a colour comparable to Resene Touche, which resembles a high-fashion alternative to the typical Hawaiian shirt.

While you would not be able to guess the collections tropical influence if it weren’t for the cohesive island print which incorporated a colour parallel to Resene Seaweed, the starting point for the Proenza Schouler was a visit to Cuba. With extended family in the area he had never met, designer Lazaro Hernandez along with his design partner Jack McCollough visited the country to both soak up the inspiration but also enjoy a moving family experience that inevitably rubbed off on the clothing. Although the island influence is undeniable, the collection at its core remains entirely urban, with the aforementioned print being the only direct link to the range’s inception.

Prada Resene Touche

At the helm of Sonia Rykiel is designer Julie de Libran, who is doing wonders for the brand with its most recent show being held at the Palais des Beaux-Arts, just down the road from the brand’s landmark Saint-Germain de Prés boutique. While Libran may have taken over design for the company, Sonia Rykiel still feels very much like a family-run operation, with a special print created this season by artist Maggie Cardelus, which paid homage to the founders. While the tropics weren’t at the top of Libran’s mind, as is the nature of trends, a subtle reference managed to find its way into the show with this modern green dress in a colour relatable to Resene Optimist with a yellow floral print.

Fausto Puglisi Resene Red Hot

Colours available from

Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363

Proenza Schouler Resene Seaweed

Emanuel Ungaro Resene Wishlist

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I 17

Photoshoot

1 HEIDI KLUM SWIM Catalina Kisses Halter,

HEIDI KLUM SWIM Classic Bikni and LE SPECS Luxe Pharaoh sunglasses.

2 HEIDI KLUM SWIM Sun Muse Wirefree Bandeau Halter, HEIDI KLUM SWIM Sun Muse Tie Bikini. LE SPECS Luxe Pharaoh sunglasses.

3 HEIDI KLUM SWIM Jetset Dreamer Wirefree Bandeau, HEIDI KLUM SWIM Classic Bikini and KAREN WALKER Cosmonaut sunglasses.

4 HEIDI KLUM SWIM Sun Dappled Decadence Wirefree Bandeau, HEIDI KLUM SWIM Classic Bikini and LE SPECS Luxe Pharaoh sunglasses.

5 HEIDI KLUM SWIM Catalina Kisses Underwire Plunge Halter, HEIDI KLUM SWIM Low Rise Brazilian and MINKPINK Last Chance sunglasses.

18 I July 2016

PHOTOGRAPHER: Caitlan Mitchell MODEL: Elise @ 62 Models

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5

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swimwear

HEIDI KLUM LAUNCHES SWIMWEAR Following the launch of her Intimates range in January 2015, Heidi Klum has launched a Heidi Klum Swim collection. Shot in LA by famed photographer and longtime collaborator, Rankin, the designer, supermodel and Emmywinning TV host Heidi Klum also stars in the campaign.

As creative director, Klum’s vision and direction is evident in the versatility and vibrancy of the collection which includes swimwear and cover-ups and utilises the expertise and craftsmanship that has made Heidi Klum Intimates a world leader. “I loved designing the first Heidi Klum Swim Collection,” said Klum. “I wanted to make sure we have a variety of fits and silhouettes so there is something for everyone.” Featuring various shapes and fits

from modern separates and classic silhouettes to daring cut outs in an array of bold summer tones and vibrant prints, the collection allows women to curate the ultimate swim wardrobe with a style for every occasion, location and lifestyle.

Heidi Klum Swim is the next step in the ongoing partnership between Heidi Klum and Bendon, a world leader in intimate apparel, and continues Bendon’s legacy of innovation and design by drawing upon the same knowledge and technology required to make the perfect lingerie fit. For more information contact Kirstin Sweeney, general manager for wholesale at Bendon on +64 9 257 1627 or kirstin.sweeney@bendon.com.

BEACH CONFIDENCE FOR ALL Since launching in Auckland 35 years ago with its first collection, swimwear brand Moontide has spread its wings and is now represented in more than 50 countries around the world. One of the driving forces for Moontide since its inception has been to reflect the monumental changes in fashion and lifestyle.

The team at Moontide is passionate about swimwear and realise that, for most women, swimwear is the least amount of clothing they will be seen wearing in public. Therefore fit is paramount. “At Moontide we fit and then refit all our garments to achieve the perfect fit,” said Sarah Taylor, sales and marketing manager Australasia for Moontide. “Our aim is to give beach confidence to all our customers when wearing Moontide swimwear.”

The 16/17 collection is no exception, with its pool side elegance continuing this season

with prints and textures inspired by global traditions. Tropical florals can be found paired with contrasting prints creating the illusion of texture in harmonious tones of paradise islands or the majestic jewel colours of tropical birds.

“In Raw Coast, we showcase the magnificent hues of the ocean fading into the more serene blues and greys of the lapping waves.” Stark Shadow collection pays attention to simple shapes with minimal styling, the monochromatic prints working perfectly with the resurgence of the sporting aesthetic. Tribal Shibori collection sees traditional elements updated and paired with textures for a contemporary tribal twist.

“A preview of the new season’s collection can be seen at this year’s New Zealand Fashion Week. We will feature in SWIM a showcase of the latest trends from a mix of Oceania’s best as part of the exciting and increasingly popular Fashion Weekend.”

For more information contact nz@moontide.com or +64 9 551 7720.

FASCINATION AND SOPHISTICATION Opulent, glamorous and desirable, the Opera preview 2017 swim and resort wear is the epitome of luxury. Exquisite collections of stunning designs take consumers from the pool to evening, from the beach to bar, with effortless elegance. The spring/summer collections draw inspiration from diamonds, nature and the nautical with an emphasis on style and sophistication with the form flattering silhouettes and the superior quality that is synonymous with this high-end luxurious swimwear brand.

Opera is a label steeped in heritage combining German exacting standards of craftsmanship and expertise, with the finesse of European styling. Unparalleled swimwear design uses cutting edge fabric and garment technology, such as quick drying, chlorine and resistant to the

20 I July 2016

unsaturated fatty acids found in suntan lotion or perspiration and 50+ UV protection. Details that make the difference, with secret body form support, underwire for comfort and convertible multi-styles for versatility. The Opera preview 2017 collection includes swimsuits, tankini’s, bikini’s cover-up and kaftans as well as skirts and tops. Opera believe in celebrating a woman’s form with sizes 8 to 18 and cup sizes A to G (selected designs are available up to size 22).

Call now for the new catalogue – FASH’N SPLASH (Exclusive Agent) Bodo Riesen +61(0) 424 294 042 or email bodo@fashnsplash. com.au

2016/17 ColleCtion viewing now +64 9 551 7720 | nz@moontide.com | moontide.com

swimwear

ATHLETIC SILHOUETTES FROM PIHA SWIMWEAR From the land of the long white cloud and the wild beaches of New Zealand’s west coast comes Piha, named after our most famous surf beach. Since the beginning in 2011, Piha has taken inspiration from the natural beauty and sun-soaked coast of New Zealand and brought this to their swimwear design.

“Nomadic Summer is our latest collection modelled by New Zealand’s very own ‘super’ model Zippora Seven,” said Sarah Taylor, sales and marketing manager for Australasia for Piha Swimwear. “It sees Piha Swimwear navigating its way through exotic cities and ancient cultures, dipping into the melting pot of cultural influences with the wanderlust of a global nomad.”

Athletic silhouettes still feature strongly with stripes, textures and mesh adding the utilitarian and urban vibe.

For the kitsch twist, the brand has got the favourite classics covered, polka dots, nautical stripes and petit florals, the mash-up of dimensions adds a pop of excitement to the perennial basics.

The sassy and vibrant signature collection is showcased in three repeatable collections a year, preview, main indent and second summer.

Delivery March, June-September and November-January with the addition of an extensive core basics collection with 12 months availability.

For more information call 09 551 7720 or email nz@moontide.com.

ENDLESS SUMMERS WITH CARENA WEST

Carena West’s eponymous label was launched in 2013, featuring exclusively designed prints and interesting shapes. The label draws inspiration from endless summers spent at New Zealand beaches, swimming in the surf and sunning on the sand. Having previously shown on the runway at MBFWA 2014, Carena West Resort 2016 has become more sophisticated. Developing in-line with the designer’s personal journey the brand is easy going, with a touch of luxe according to West.

West began her sewing career in primary school, sewing quilted flowers onto cushion cases. Eighteen years later, she graduated from AUT with a Diploma of Fashion Design and a Bachelor of Business degree. “I wanted to ensure that I not only knew how to sew but also how to manage a business from the ground up.”

For a second New Zealand fashion week for the brand, West has chosen to present her resort collection using ‘real’ models, healthy, confident women who embody the idea that every body is a bikini body. Carena West Swim will be showing in-season with every piece from the collection available to purchase online as they come down the runway. The resort collection that will be presented was recently shown in a group showing at MercedesBenz Fashion Week Australia, gaining positive reviews from Marie Claire, Net-a-Porter and Shopbop. West’s Modern Icon Resort 2016 collection celebrates the grace, fluidity and empowerment of the modern female unexpected textures represents an untold strength and femininity.

For more information email info@carenawest.com

Stock the swimwear that sells!

6 time award winning brand SUNFLAIR® will delight your customers with exceptional swimwear and resort fashion that will keep them coming back for more.

Featuring cuts that fit beautifully, superior fabrics and innovative designs that will ensure your customers feel confident and fashionable in their new swimwear.

CALL NOW FOR THE STUNNING NEW CATALOGUE. FASH’N SPLASH (Exclusive Agent) Bodo Riesen +61(0)424 294 042 email bodo@fashnsplash.com.au

www.carenawest.com

22 I July 2016

swimwear

CREATIVE INNOVATION This seasons’ collections from Sunflair come in a myriad of colours and graphic prints. Diversity is essential with Sunflair’s beautiful styles and complementary collections consumers can mix and match, creating virtually endless combinations. The collection has 12 capsule trends each with several styling options to suit every woman’s taste and flatter every form. It includes bikini’s, tankini’s, swimsuits and shapewear ‘Beautyform’ swimsuits, wraps, skirts, tops and cover-ups. Consumers can mix and match styles and try the new adjustable ‘cross back’ detail, where the straps can be worn either straight or crossed over.

Sunflair caters for sizes 8 – 28 and cup sizes A – H and collections that include Maternity, Mastectomy range, Shapewear ‘Beautyform’ and Tummy Control. Sunflair is one of the most popular swimwear brands in the world and has won the coveted Sous award for the bestselling swimwear brand in Germany for the last six years in a row. The brand demonstrates finesse in design, cut and quality using the latest in industry advancements, premium and technical LYCRA and chlorine resistant fabrics. Call now for the new catalogue – FASH’N SPLASH (Exclusive Agent) Bodo Riesen +61(0) 424 294 042 or email bodo@ fashnsplash.com.au

MEN’S SWIMWEAR IS NOT FORGOTTEN

Men’s swimwear is no longer forgotten or relegated to the realm of the plain and boring thanks to Sunman’s new collection from internationally respected, European swimwear brand Sunflair. The Sunman preview collection is just for the guys, with on-trend styles in the latest colourways.

The collection boasts a beach ready assortment of shorts, trunks and Bermuda shorts that feature edgy prints and durable styles to withstand an active lifestyle in the surf or pool. All of which are constructed with the same meticulous German garment expertise, technical fabrics and creative designs as the Sunflair women’s range.

With several styles across a colour palette of nautical navy, Maui prints, turquoise checks and the classic red, white and blue the fashion forward action man is sorted with the figure hugging James Bond style trunks.

For the more traditional gentlemen, relaxed style board shorts for comfort and fit are available in large red or cross hatch grey checks colour ways and vibrant turquoise or colour blocks. The board shorts are also available in tropical Hawaiian prints, striking horizontal black and white, or red vertical stripes.

Sunman preview collection has an extensive range of styles and prints to choose from, technical fabrics that are 5-10 times higher chlorine resistant than standard elastane. The Sunman collection caters for sizes S – XXL or 32 – 40.

Stock the swimwear that sells! Six time award winning brand SUNFLAIR® will delight your customers with exceptional swimwear and resort fashion that will keep them coming back for more. Featuring cuts that fit beautifully superior fabrics and innovative designs that will ensure your customers feel confident and fashionable in their new swimwear. Call now for the stunning new catalogue – FASH’N SPLASH (Exclusive Agent) Bodo Riesen +61(0) 424 294 042 or email bodo@fashnsplash.com.au

SHADES AND SARONGS

Sun damage is no joke, and as nice as it is to bask in the sunlight at the beach or poolside, there are two essential items that are should be considered for every summer buy in.

There is an immeasurable amount of sunglasses available on the market, with no hard and fast rules as to which sell best, the key is to stock a range of frame shapes appealing to a variety of faces while ensuring the lenses for all offer thorough sun protection.

“Whenever you’re thinking, ‘Hmm, I should be using sunscreen,’ you should be wearing sunglasses,” said optometrist, Dr Rachel Bishop. Bishop also noted that the colour or darkness of the sunglasses has no effect on their ability to protect from the sun and that the real protection comes in the form of high rated UVA and UVB protection lenses. Notable examples include the Karen Walker Harvest Superstars in Crazy Tort with rose gold lenses, Lewis Fredericks’ The Gabi in black and white

horn and green lenses, and the Age Eyewear Hostage in black and pearl marble.

Alongside sunglasses, stocking a variety of sarongs not only adds to potential summer sales but offers customers another level of sun protection. Different sizes, shapes, colours, patterns, and fabrics should all be available for the shoppers to experiment with not only the swimwear stock you have in-store, but also the swimwear they already have in their wardrobe.

For an easy point of difference, interesting textiles and textures can be incorporated alongside the regular digital print cotton varieties. While it is impossible to list all the best options, stand-out products include the Phase Eight Pom Pom sarong and the Pour Moi All About the Lace sarong.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 23

behind the business

John Zimmermann Having studied fashion and textiles at the Auckland University of Technology in the ‘80s, John Zimmermann has developed his extensive knowledge of fabric and created a sophisticated and contemporary couture bridal company focussed on providing excellent garments that encompass elements of elegance and opulence.

He started his journey in the industry working as a designer for NZ Wedding Centre before spending eight years as a cutter, technologist and assistant to New Zealand couturier Patrick Steele.

“One of my career highlights has to be working with Patrick, we had great fun working on a movie wardrobe for Joan Collins,” said Zimmermann.

Before working with Steele, he had a heavy focus on textiles, having experienced various production techniques and being trained in knitting during his time at AUT. “Education is always important, but it is no substitute for practical knowledge.

You can teach technique, but not inspiration.”

After establishing a part-time home studio under his own name in 1993, he opened his first store and started working full time in 2000, with a couture salon located in Mt Eden. “The brand stands for immaculate, quality, classic refinement, and bespoke ideas, all within the embrace of high fashion.”

While Zimmermann draws a lot of inspiration from ‘30s design and ’50s couture, at the heart of it all is clarity in the product and the service he offers, ensuring a well thought out and strong final design. When starting a design, he meets with the client to discuss a range of possibilities and bounce ideas around before moving onto visualising with sketches. From here the client and Zimmermann decide on a final design and start developing a calico prototype or toile to check the fit and look on the client before constructing the final gown.

“Customer feedback is vital to understanding my product; it drives the quality and design of my present and future

24 I July 2016

products.” He stands at the forefront of his brand, interacting with every customer ensuring a personable experience is had. His face and personality give life to the brand, with both parties getting to know each other throughout the various face-toface meetings they have throughout the process.

For the most part, he focusses on designing for brides-to-be, meaning he will often only serve a customer once, although he said the customer always wants the same thing, to look as beautiful as possible while retaining their individuality.

“Digital and social media are increasingly important these days, encouraging more immediate interaction with existing and potential clients.” It is digital and social media that have opened up new marketing avenues, an area that he said is most challenging for any new brands to grapple. “Getting clients is a never ending battle.”

On talking about showing at fashion weeks, he said they are of limited importance, since his brand is different to the regular audience, given that he is targeting consumers looking for personable couture bridal. Not one to rest on his laurels, Zimmermann has introduced a new accessory line to his business while broadening his web presence to attract new customers and encourage continued growth.

“This is essential to push my brand further afield into the international market.”

In giving advice to the future generation, he said to focus on your instincts and ensure you know your product or service well. “These two things combined will ensure you are differentiated in the marketplace.”

C H A R L E S PA R S O N S FA S H I O N FA B R I C S AUTUMN / WINTER 2017

Book an appointment to see the range.

NZ toll-free: 0508 327 446 Tel: +64 9 969 7300 fashion@charlesparsons.co.nz www.charlesparsonsfashion.com

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 25

OLIVIA CASHMORE Whitecliffe College Of Art And Design Great fashion design is often a labour of love, and for Whitecliffe student Olivia Cashmore this could not be any truer. She started her journey at the age of 11 when she couldn’t afford a dress she wanted, but remembered her grandmother’s sewing machine lying around and decided to make one for herself.

From there her skills have grown exponentially, choosing to create her ball dresses, graduation gown and her outfit for her 21st birthday. Fashion is at the core of her creativity.

“I fell in love with the process, imagining designs and then bringing them to life. I couldn’t think of anything I would rather be doing,”

NUTS & BOLTS

SARAH STREET MI PIACI

26 I July 2016

said Cashmore.

The promise of a practical based learning experience is what drew her to Whitecliffe, learning from skilled tutors who have instilled in her the importance of fine quality and meticulous construction techniques.

These skills, combined with her innate ability to conceptualise design has helped Cashmore execute excellent garments that have been well received by her friends on social media and customers who she has sold her Winter 2016 collection to,

which showed at the 2015 Whitecliffe fashion showcase.

Construction and design happen hand-in-hand, with Cashmore taking every opportunity to develop her dressmaking skills to their fullest to set herself apart from other designers.

Describing her customer as a girl who is effortlessly classic combined with uncontrollable amounts of swag, Cashmore’s aesthetic is a mix of casual and formal elements with the main focus of her design being a ‘look good, feel better’ mantra.

This leads to her strong views on the sustainable fashion movement, in which she wants more people to pay attention to the terrible conditions of factories that produce fast-fashion products, urging consumers to focus on quality over quantity.

The learn by doing attitude has seen her make the most of her time working at Taylor, experiencing what it takes to make a successful fashion business run before moving to America next year to pursue international experiences.

“I will knock on every door until I get a job. I’m a little nervous of not ‘making it’ I guess, however you never know until you try.”

While starting and operating a label is in her 10-year plan, Cashmore is more focussed on continuing her learning, wanting to experience a broad range of different design processes and techniques from various big companies before pooling her experience into a standalone project of her own.

A great brand manager is someone who has a thorough understanding of how the product works, not just its functionality, but the time and labour involved in how it came to be.

Having achieved international experience as the senior footwear designer for Marks and Spencer and River Island respectively, Sarah Street has an in-depth appreciation for footwear that she brings to her role at Mi Piaci.

After growing up in Auckland’s Devonport, she left the country at age 18 to experience as much as she could before returning home to start a Bachelor of Design, majoring in industrial design at Massey University.

“From there I worked for a few years as a product designer, then chance gave me the opportunity to start a career in footwear, and I’ve never looked back,” said Street. Her time in London solidified her love for design, drawing inspiration from the city and utilising its opportunities to help her grow as a designer. As a brand manager, no two days are the same with Street ensuring she is involved in everything there is to do with Mi Piaci, whether it be a photo shoot, fitting new shoes, overseas buying and development trips, or spending the day sketching.

The season typically starts with trend research and forecasting, alongside sales analysis from the previous season to which she then moves on to sketching new products that are sent to the factory. A close relationship with the factories helps ensure the patterns and fit are just right before selecting colours, leathers, and trims, eventually leading to an order being placed.

While Street drives a lot of the creative direction for Mi Piaci, the team works in a collaborative environment ultimately executing a vision that was created as a group. “We’re continuing to work on redefining our voice as a brand and build on our previous successes and our great foundations.”

Mi Piaci is in a period of growth, proving it can adapt to an ever-changing market with well thought out and refined collections that resonate with the New Zealand customer. The goal is to have the company be a go-to store for shoes and bags, recognising the demand for newer and more innovative products.

Street said consumers are becoming less focusses on hyper-consumerism and have a desire to buy into brands they trust, which also offer a product with a great sense of value and a point of difference.

behind the business

SUCCESS UNDER

30

JESSIE WONG Yu Mei Brand

Apparel spoke with rising star, Jessie Wong, the woman behind the brand Yu Mei about how she got started in the industry, the lessons she has learnt along the way, how she continues to value quality over quantity and what the future has in store.

Having grown up on the beach on the south coast of Wellington in Island Bay, Jessie Wong spent most weekends watching her mother use the sewing machine and often got to have a go herself. Seeing her interest in sewing grow, her mother took her to have lessons at Inverlochy Art House in Te Aro. “I remember what I made in my first class,” said Wong. “A super funky black and white striped cowl neck top, terrible in hindsight but my Mum was impressed!” Aside from her learning construction from a young age at Inverlochy, she has always had a knack for colours and putting outfits together. At 13, Wong started going into shops like Karen Walker and making friends with the staff there.

“Often those boutique stores sell fabric remnants in their samples sales so I used to collect those and use them for my school design technology projects.”

Two years later she made a dress using Karen Walker fabric and asked Shelley, who then worked in the Wellington store to review the dress. It wasn’t long before the design team sent back a response offering Wong a week’s internship with Karen Walker up in Auckland. “My week at Karen Walker was invaluable.

It was the first time I’d seen an entire workroom from design through pattern making to sampling all run together – and I loved it! It was so exciting to see how everything in the store came to life.”

Following graduation from Samuel Marsden School in Karori and having a week at Karen Walker under her belt, Wong knew she wanted to pursue a career in fashion and studied a Bachelor of Design in Fashion at Otago Polytechnic down in Dunedin. During her studies, she helped out at Twenty Seven Names and did a few weeks internship during her university holidays.

“They were great, both Rachel and Anjali had studied in Dunedin and helped me choose where to study, even down to which hall of residence I should apply for. I got a taste for what was required in the despatch department, not something you’re taught at school.” In her final year at Otago, Wong spent five weeks in Sydney at Akira Isogawa where she found herself in an entirely different work environment to what she had experienced back home.

“Akira had three or four interns, and it was tougher.

It wasn’t negative, but I do think I quickly realised that I didn’t want to be working in the fashion industry if it wasn’t for my label.”

Although formal education isn’t for everyone, Wong found that her time spent building design skills and experimenting without having to translate it into sales was definitely for her. “Getting constant feedback is something I missed once leaving tertiary education, but you quickly find that kind of support in other places, mainly my stockists most of whom have become my friends. Doing a degree is also as much about creating a solid support network in the industry as anything.”

After completing her studies, Wong went on to create her handbag and accessories brand, Yu Mei, named after her Chinese middle name. Up until this year, Wong has been a one-woman band doing all of her design, branding, wholesaling, online sales, events, sourcing, manufacturing and production – the lot.

“I have recently hired the most amazing full-time production manager, Adrian. To begin with, though I had to do it all, and I have learnt a lot in the process.”

A typical day for Wong varies a lot depending on which stage of the season she is at but it is guaranteed to be a fun day. “One week we’re flat tack in production, or I’ll be on the computer replying to emails and sorting the admin side of things.

Some of the best days are designing new bags or developing aspects of our patterns, and it’s very satisfying creating something new. We probably have the most fun during our campaign shoots because it’s the first time we get to see the collection come together.”

Running Yu Mei has taught Wong that no one knows what they’re doing until they’re doing it and that there is no set formula for success. She has learnt to trust her gut instincts when it comes to important decisions, and always value quality over quantity.

“I also have the opportunity to run things my way, so I’ve become a lot more mindful of the decisions I make and the impact they have especially surrounding production. I want to grow Yu Mei into a socially responsible label and increase consumer awareness on how the products and garments they choose to buy are made.”

Wong attributes her success to date to the hard work and long hours she has put into her brand.

Although the risk is always a factor when it comes to business, she was prepared to be pushed into the deep end.

“If you don’t jump in, you risk not enjoying what you do. There will probably be someone around to throw you a pool noodle if it gets a bit much. You need to make opportunities happen for yourself, be curious and always ask questions. The worst anyone can ever say to you is no. Stay honest to your values and don’t take yourself too seriously.”

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 27

behind the business

INDUSTRY ACCORDING TO . . .

Myken Stewart Brand Partnership Specialist

Fifteen years ago when my Mum, Dame Pieter asked me to sell her event for her, I truly had no idea what sponsorship was. Just like I didn’t know who Karen Walker was and called her Karen Millen!!

I was like the un-coolest and most out of the scene person in the whole fashion industry.

Now I know Karen and Mikhail the trailblazers and lovely inspiring people, I try never calling sponsorship, ‘sponsorship’, as it’s partnership, and I realised I was never in the fashion industry! The event I was a brand manager and more for is a platform for the fashion industry.

So what has changed? I can’t tell you anything about what’s changed with fashion, other than I never make a comment. Lesson learnt from making comments.

A whole lot has changed with partnerships as brands discover that partnering with like-minded brands is a fantastic way to leverage one another. Done well it’s one of the best forms of marketing and way more organic than a billboard that’s up for a month. No slur on traditional marketing here and used in conjunction with a deeper strategy it works.

The game changer for me was signing up Air NZ naming rights with the fantastic Jenny Simpson in 2003. I knew how to sell and had done a pretty good job bringing on new sponsor partners, but I didn’t really understand how to service our sponsor partners best and that a great partnership was mutually beneficial and how to measure that. Air NZ sent me off for a two-day session with Kim Skildum Reid, and I have never looked back.

I have been fortunate enough to be in a position with NZ Fashion Week to grow the partnership portfolio and brand while the event was also growing and morphing.

Mum let me take chances and gave me free reign to integrate brands without too many restrictions and before we knew it, every single possible aspect of NZFW that could be sponsored was sponsored. The angle always being some cool way a brand can have some ownership of NZFW and fulfil a need for us and at the same time that brand feels like it was their idea. It’s a perfect win-win. The other big focus was how to maintain the NZFW brand partners and grow great relationships over the years as let’s face it by maintaining a partner its a lot less work than hustling for new ones.

The answer is simple; it’s a lot of commitment and working on what each brand needs, respect and understanding of each other’s brands and honesty. I think the mark of a great partnership is its longevity. Although they can never last forever as brands change and grow.

Another interesting challenge faced by a big event like NZFW and a massive portfolio of sponsor partners are the designers and their whole set of partners. How does everyone get cut through and not get ambushed by their competitors? It’s one of the main jobs of the person looking after partners to limit that ambush possibility.

NZFW has strict guidelines for the designer but unfortunately the majority of NZ designers don’t value their sponsor partner relationships as highly as they should.

Rather choosing to focus their attention on the fashion show, which is extremely hard for the designers partners to get cut through.

To focus on the positive, there are some brands doing it well, and the simple reason is that they understand these partnerships require a plan for a year and not a few minutes. They work it throughout the year and I admire them, they also appreciate and respect the NZFW partnerships and get that there wouldn’t be a fashion week without sponsorship money and support.

To pick a few stars, it would be Trelise Cooper, Stolen Girlfriends Club, Karen Walker and Kathryn Wilson.

I now work one day a week at NZFW assisting with top level strategy and brand plus everything about the event as there is a lot of knowledge and learnings in fourteen years… What I had been noticing for the past few years with the brands that I was interfacing with that less than 10 percent of 80 brands had a dedicated sponsorship/brand person.

Often a mix or marketing PR, PA and the person who decided it was a good idea.

Because of this, these partnerships could be hit and miss and not a part of a bigger brand strategy. Too often ending when the passionate person behind the idea had moved on.

I saw an opening for me to be able to go and work with companies to help them love and understand their partnerships and grow them organically with my guidance.

There is no one else doing what I am, and therefore it’s a slow start educating companies on how it can work. I’m looking forward to new ventures and enjoying NZFW as a guest and assisting some of their brands to get the most out of it! I’m sure I’ll have some different NZFW stories to tell by getting the time to stand still and see what’s going down. myken@myken.co.nz

What I had been noticing for the past few years with the brands that I was interfacing with that less than 10 percent of 80 brands had a dedicated sponsorship/brand person.

MODEL TALKS Simone Hamlin CLYNE

28 I July 2016

For Simone Hamlin, the modelling world came calling when one day she skipped school to hang out with her friends at Albany Mall, and was scouted at the age of 14 by Ursula Dixon in the food court of McDonalds.

With overwhelming support from family, friends and even strangers at school, Hamlin emailed Dixon and a few months later signed with Clyne.

Now 21, she is still just as much in love with the industry and has visited some of the most beautiful places both in New Zealand and abroad. “I feel like every time I get a modelling job; it’s a big achievement. Even though I’ve been doing it for so long I’m still humbled by the fact that I was scouted so young and given the opportunity,” said Hamlin.

Among her accomplishments is booking New Zealand Fashion Week for three consecutive years from 2010 to 2013, with her first year seeing the young model land 19 shows and walk

for big name designers including Zambesi, Kathryn Wilson, Ruby, Trelise Cooper, Stolen Girlfriends Club, and Karen Walker to name a few.

As an American citizen, she is open to pursuing work in L.A. and New York while looking at opportunities in Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore, and Milan.

Travel is in Hamlin’s bones, taking a two year long overseas working holiday on the Hawaiian island of Kauai. Here she experienced the way fashion changes with culture, noticing the Californian and surf industry influence on everyday designs.

While she knows modelling is not always a life-long career, Hamlin is excited to be working a job that can take her around the world. The goal is to experience all walks of life to develop

a well-rounded view of the world, something she feels is important to have if she wants to pursue her dream of becoming a teacher.

“I don’t want to go straight into teaching the next generation when I hadn’t myself gone out and experienced life outside of a classroom.”

swim

SINK or Believe it or not, there is a range of options available when it comes to swimwear, and as fashion continues to grow in influence, the swimwear scene has seen a revival of style.

From clashing patterns through to one shoulder bikinis, swimwear has never looked so good.

MIX AND MATCH

Designers aren’t afraid to experiment with it comes to patterns. While in a full outfit this concept might be overwhelming, when talking about bikini’s this is the best time to play around. Geometric patterns of different designs and colour work best, as they tend to play off each other rather than battle for attention.

Although it’s not common for consumers to buy an already mixed bikini, it is best practice to have a full arsenal available for customers to mix and match as they please.

OFF THE SHOULDER

Moving its way from gowns to swimwear is the cold shoulder trend that sees new bikini and one-piece designs move to one strap and play around with balancing an asymmetric design.

Typically executed in an ultra-simplistic design, the one-shoulder options are another fashion-forward way to breathe new life into a category that can at times seem very same-same.

THE THIRD DIMENSION

New technologies lead the way for new design, with 3D printing being no exception, extending itself into the swimwear market and opening a range of new possibilities. While it may be in an experimental stage of development right now, as the technology continues to develop, more possibilities and ideas will be explored, opening a whole new door to the way swimwear is designed and produced.

HALTER NECK

There is no denying the incredible influence of athleisure in the everyday fashion market, and so it’s no surprise that it has rubbed off on new swimwear options. The halter neck is a quintessential style in the sportswear market and has integrated itself into the various swimwear ranges for customers focussed on attaining the athletic aesthetic.

SLEEVES

CUT IT OUT

Unlike the monokini, which for the most part is a group of strings designed to pinch and pucker the second anybody moves, creative cut outs follow the natural curve of the body and offer a great compromise between full coverage and full blown bikini.

Some daring souls will stray away from traditional swimwear and look for something more modern.

Sleeves are a great way to add a point of difference to your customer’s summer look. The functionality of long sleeves means that surfers will also want this look.

Whether it be a playful bardot neckline or a long sleeve with a elongated collar, sleeves play an important role in highlighting the best features of your customers.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 29

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Call JACQUI 09 309 5020 or visit www.nzfashiontech.ac.nz