Apparel Magazine // August 2016

$ 9.00

AUGUST 2016 I VOL 49 I NO 8

NEW ZEALAND FASHION WEEK

THE DESIGNERS NEWS 05 MENSWEAR NEWS 11 THE MODELS 24 SUCCESS UNDER 30... 27 INDUSTRY ACCORDING TO... 28

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Photoshoot ZAMBESI Ms Black Jacket in Black Foil, HARMAN GRUBIÅ A Saint Dress, KOWTOW Koenig Pant, MIMCO Black Ankle Boots, HOUSE OF HOLLAND Teller Glasses in White, and MM6 Metallic Leather Big Clutch.

MODEL: Sabrina Brunton at RED11 PHOTOGRAPHER: Caitlan Mitchell PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: Tania Walters

2 I August 2016

HARMAN GRUBIŠA Betty Jacket and Elvira Pant, ZAMBESI Sunglasses, MIMCO Kitten Heels, and ZAMBESI Hexagon Sunglasses in Shiny Silver.

MODEL TALKS SABRINA BRUNTON RED11

Modelling for little over a month now, Sabrina Brunton has already worked with one of New Zealand’s top photographers David Shields which has been the highlight of her modelling experience so far. “It had always been a dream of mine to be part of the fashion industry as a model just to see what happens behind the scenes and what life’s like,” explained Brunton. In her short time being a model, the 17 year old has landed the latest Tanya Carlson lookbook. Brunton was drawn into the modelling industry seeking new opportunities and to get first hand experience in the fashion industry. One of Brunton’s goals is to walk for Fendi or Calvin Klein. “I hope to go further in modelling and to travel the world discovering new cultures and meet new people,” she said. After finishing high school, she wants to be in the fashion industry in either design or photography and found modelling now was icing on the cake.

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EDITOR’S letter

FASHIONABLE

CRACKDOWN ON PAID POSTS Social media newsfeeds are filled with them, but the USA Federal Trade Commission has had enough of paid posts and is cracking down on celebrities and social media influencers.

From skincare to beverages, vitamins to shoes, it seems that everywhere consumers look there are products to buy or try. Fashion, lifestyle, and celebrity bloggers are using their personal accounts to push brand messages without any mention about whether they had been paid, but according to the US government this has not gone unnoticed.

It plans to get tougher saying that users need to be clear when they are being paid to promote product and the hashtags like #ad or #sponsored are not enough.

Michael Ostheimer, deputy in the FTC’s Ad Practices Division believes the onus is on advertisers to ensure they comply. “We’ve been interested in deceptive endorsements for decades and this is a new way in which they are appearing,” said Ostheimer.

“We believe consumers put stock in endorsements and we want to make sure they are not being deceived.”

A few months ago Warner Bros. Home Entertainment Inc. settled a case with FTC who claimed it deceived customers by paying YouTube sensation PewDiePie to promote a video game and give it positive reviews without disclosing that they were paid.

This is probably due to the fact that it is harder today for companies to communicate and reach customers in their 20s so they are turning to a channel where they frequent and spending upwards of US$255 million a month to get the message across to them.

Despite this crackdown and negativity surrounding paid posts, social media influencers typically only use and work with brands they genuinely like and use.

Influencer content has been closely linked to product placement, for example a tv show where characters drink a branded beverage like Starbucks.

One blogger, Justine Ezarik (aka iJustine) told a news source that, “it definitely is getting confusing, the hardest part is when you only have 140 characters or a few seconds of a snapchat, how do you make the most of it?”

As a special offer in this, our Fashion Week issue, this month when you test drive the new Tiguan at Tristram European, you will receive a free gift subscription to Apparel magazine. Take a snap of your test drive, post and win! See page 6.

Want to see all the latest from Fashion Week? Don’t forget to follow us on social media!

Snapchat: @nzapparel Instagram: @nzapparel Facebook @NZ Apparel Magazine

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

ON THE COVER:

READS AROUND THAT TIME: Horst at Home in Vogue

Among many decorating books, ‘Vogue’s Book of Houses, Gardens, People’ from 1968 was a landmark publication showcasing an important chapter in Vogue’s history. Vogue’s very own Horst P. Horst was one of the world’s top fashion photographers of his time. In the early 1960’s, he developed a deep and intense love in seeing the world’s most beautiful homes and meeting their owners. ‘Around That Time’ features stunning imagery by Horst P. Horst paralleled with lyrical essays about homes and their occupants by his work and life partner Valentine Lawford. This book showcases politics, society, and the arts in the mid-20th century. This book highlights some of the material shown in the original book and a series of never-before-seen photographs from those same homes. Around That Time also showcases a new collection of homes that Horst shot well into the late 1980’s. This new publication incorporates a new generation of design, decorating, and visual art professionals, academics, and enthusiasts.

SUPERMODEL TIPS

H&M opened 240 new stores in the fall of 2015, a whopping average of three stores per day.

the NUMBERS . . .

The fashion industry spends over $500 billion per year on advertising. However, Zara, the world’s largest fashion retailer with over 2,000 stores in 88 countries, doesn’t advertise at all.

One in ten Italians change their socks more than once a day. On average, Italians also buy 16 new pairs of socks every year.

From Kate Moss to Karlie Kloss, this book is filled with beautiful illustrations and ingenious tips from the world’s top supermodels.

A wonderfully curated collection of insider top tips about makeup, fashion, skincare, hair, body types, confidence and lifestyles. This book is an essential guide not just for fashionistas, but for the girl next door too with essentials guides on how these runway stars achieve perfect makeup precision, keep fit and prepare for important events.

NASTY GALAXY

BY SOPHIA AMORUSO

Most female modeling careers last on average three seasons. Universally, most runway shows feature around seventy percent new faces.

The average modeling salary is $32,929.

PUBLISHER Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Thomas Fowler - tommie@reviewmags.com ADVERTISING SALES Josie McKeefry - josie@reviewmags.com SENIOR DESIGNER Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com DESIGN ASSISTANT Hannah Sames

4 I August 2016

PHOTOGRAPHER Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com ADMINISTRATION MANAGER Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.

The New York Timesbestselling author of #GIRLBOSS, Sophia Amoruso, has just released a new book filled with beautiful illustrations of the collective spirit of the Nasty Gal brand. Featuring a foreword by Courtney Love and warns readers that this is not a style book or how to mix prints, but simply how to leave your mark on everything you touch. Nasty Galaxy approaches topics such as style, music, philosophy, and advice in a similar way to how #GIRLBOSS approached business but in an unconventional way. Oversized and full of colour, this highly graphic and visual book is the new must-have accessory for your customers living room or in your store.

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DAVID JONES OPENS IN WELLINGTON

David Jones has officially opened its first international store in Wellington, marking a significant milestone in the department store’s 178-year history. The new look David Jones features a bold, contemporary store design and delivers an unrivalled mix of fashion and accessories brands to Wellington, including international brands not previously stocked in New Zealand and the addition of a number of New Zealand labels to its stable.

“We’re excited to offer our customers at David Jones Wellington a premium retail experience on par with the best department stores globally,” said David Jones chief executive officer, John Dixon. “We’ve worked hard to inject a level of ambience, excitement and experience into our design, store content, product assortment and services that will provide our customers in New Zealand with a world class shopping experience.”

STOCK SWIMWEAR THAT SELLS

Six time award-winning brand Sunflair will delight your customers with exceptional swimwear and resort fashion that will keep them coming back for more. Featuring beautifully fit cuts, superior fabrics and innovative designs that will ensure your customers feel confident and fashionable.

Fashion forward styles, as well as classic designs to suit every woman. Call now for the stunning new catalogue or for more information contact Fash’N Splash exclusive agent Bodo Riesen on +61 (0) 424 294 042 or email bodo@fashnsplash.com.au.

Collections can be viewed in Auckland on 30 and 31 August – viewings are by appointment only, please call for details.

NEXT LEVEL ACTIVEWEAR

Based in Auckland, Rapid Fitness is a brand managed and designed by Kyle Robinson. Behind the brand is a team of fitness enthusiasts who felt the market was missing the next level up in fitness gear at an affordable price point. “As we design the ranges and control the manufacturing process we are able to offer top quality fabrics at competitive retail prices,” said Robinson. “Once someone wears our gear they instantly love it and want more.” Core values for the brand are quality, comfort and style that the team ensure every piece designed and made by Rapid Fitness has.

“We only use the very best material available, all our technical fabrics are developed in Taiwan. Thoroughly tested to meet our requirements within breathability, wickability and other performance features, which are required for the specific style.” The team spend a lot of time on getting the fit right and are constantly improving where they can. A limited selection is covered in the ranges as the brand believe when customers find their favourite fit, it shouldn’t be changed season to season. “Merging fashion, lifestyle and fitness is our aspiration. When you look good, you feel good.” Rapid Fitness style and asethetic is a bit dark and gritty but with a definite street style. For more information or to stock this brand contact Rapid Fitness on info@ rapidfitnessgear.com or visit www.rapidfitnessgear.com.

FASHION @ SIT • • • •

Graduate Diploma in Fashion Design (Design and Technology) Bachelor of Fashion (Design and Technology) National Certificate in Clothing Manufacture Certificate in Pattern Making and Garment Construction

Garment created by Jessie Gillies SIT Bachelor of Fashion (Design and Technology)

*Direct material costs apply

Call today or email info@sit.ac.nz

0800 4 0 FEES www.sit.ac.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

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FASHION SUSTAINABILITY AT WHITECLIFFE

Mark Hayward (Director), Penny Thorne (Operations Manager/Sales), Jenny Ardnt (Service Reception/ Vehicle Warranty), Trish Wright (Service Advisor), Jessica Atwill (Reception), Janelle Wells (Sales Support)

FASHIONABLE NEW TIGUAN

The Volkswagen brand is number one worldwide and many of its models including Golf, Polo and Passat have won ‘World Car of the Year’. Apparel Magazine has teamed up with Tristram European Volkswagen and our readers have the opportunity to test drive the new Tiguan and receive a gift subscription in the goodie bag when you do. Chic and stylish vehicles feature throughout the Volkswagen brand range including hatchbacks, sedans, wagons and SUV’s right through to the commercial range of small to large vans, the desirable Amarok, high-end people transporters and the newly re-introduced California campervan.

The new fashionable model Tiguan takes the European SUV crossover market by the horns and rules on style, appearance, bells and whistles, and best of all – affordability. The range starts from $41,990 offering 2WD petrol models, 4WD petrol and diesel models and a newly introduced R-Line Tiguan which takes on the 162W (Golf GTI engine) and boasts a complete suite of factory options which all arrive with the new Tiguan, which is priced from $66,990. The new Tiguan range features a heads up display, a new media system, digital dash, leather interior, bigger wheels and a strong silhouette. A well thought out colour palette has been introduced to the Tiguan range with some attractive shades to choose from including Atlantic Blue, Dark Moss Green, Habanero Orange, Indium Grey and Urano Grey.

For more information or to inject fashion into your garage contact Tristram European on 09 441 0090 or visit www.tristrameuropean.co.nz.

A Feminine Dream JULIANNA NEW ZEALAND

CALL US AT

+64 27 866 7007 info@julianna.nz julianna.nz

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In 2016, Whitecliffe launched a new stream of the Master of Fine Arts programme focussing on Fashion and Sustainability. The programme offers postgraduate opportunities for fashion designers with an interest in ecologically ethical and sustainable fashion.

Sustainability in fashion is part of an expanding branch within the fashion industry focused on social responsibility and environmental impact through the ethical treatment of workers in the supply chain, use of sustainable and organic materials, disuse of harmful chemicals and dyes and reduction of textile waste.

The Whitecliffe Fashion Design department has long had a strong focus on sustainable and ethical practice within the Bachelor of Fine Arts programme.

Students are encouraged to address environmental and social concerns within the industry and increasingly are employing natural dyes, organic fabrics, recycled materials, deadstock fabrics, creative and innovative Whitecliffe student Sophia pattern making, zero and minimal waste, with all fabric Joy Butler designs. waste being taken to a local textile recycling facility.

This year the MFA Fashion Sustainability students were accepted for participation in the 2016 Youth Fashion Summit in Copenhagen. Over 100 students from all over the world were invited to attend the event which focused on ways in which sustainability can be achieved within the fashion industry to reduce demands on resources and impact on the environment.

International guests will be invited for presentations and assessment periods to support students in their design research throughout the course of the MFA programme. Recent guests and professionals have included Liz Mitchell, Elizabeth Finlay from Zambesi, Marina Davis from Ovna Ovich, Elizabeth Brown, Ethical Sourcing and Social Responsibility specialist, and Marianne Franklin, Professor of Global Media and Politics at Goldsmiths.

The Whitecliffe MFA Fashion and Sustainability programme is for pioneering young fashion designers, fashion artists and practitioners who want to embrace sustainable practices, ask questions and address social and environmental issues in the textile and garment supply chain to make a positive change through innovative outcomes. For more information visit www.whitecliffe.ac.nz

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PLATFORM FOR YOUTH

Walk the Line is dedicated to showcasing up and coming young designers at New Zealand Fashion Week. The show is presented by YMCA Auckland’s youth programme, Raise Up. Since 2011, Walk the Line has continued to show its popularity during NZFW as a consistent sell-out most years. Walk the Line gives young designers the opportunity to display their garments on a world stage. It goes both ways, for youth involved in the Raise Up crew, they are solely responsible for the event management production, promotion and sales of the show. This year the show will see 60 designs from 16 high schools across Auckland. They will be competing in five categories, High Fashion, Open Design, Recyclable, Cultural and this year’s themed category, Vintage. Doris De Pont from Auckland Fashion Mueseum joins social media celebrity Kris Fox and last year’s winner Antoin’e Ogilvie on the judging panel. The trio will select the category winners whom will each take home products from Revlon and the overall winner will receive a $2000 scholarship for New Zealand Fashion Tech. This is a show not to miss, support the future of NZ fashion by attending this years’ show.

For more information visit www.walktheline.co.nz.

LIKE MOTHER LIKE DAUGHTER

Gore-based Viv Tamblyn and Andre Johnston, mother and daughter, won the top awards at the Hokonui Fashion Design Awards this year. This will be the second year that Tamblyn has been awarded the Heather Paterson QSM Memorial Award for her design in the Howl in the Moon Streetwear section. While her daughter walked away with the Bonz Award of Excellence and the Heartland Hotel Croyden Nightlife Award.

The garment by Johnston had over 240 hours of cross-stitching.

BALL AGENCIES LTD STABLE OF BRANDS CONTINUES TO GROW

One of New Zealand largest fashion importers, wholesalers and distributors, Ball Agencies Ltd. offers a vast number of exquisite brands, such as Day Birger et Mikkelsen, 2ndDay, Day ET, POL, Leon & Harper, Black Orchid Denim, Deby Debo Paris, CULT of Individuality Jeans, Kokun, Hailwood, NYDJ, Lisette-L and Bohemian Luxe.

On top of distributing these brands they are also the New Zealand Agents for European brands: Rabens Saloner, Baum und Pferdgarten, Charli, Custommade and Stella Forest.

Please contact sam@ballagencies. com or phone 09 3033693 ext 2, for the AW17 and SS17 selling dates, to make an appointment to view the new collections.

Rick Ball the Owner and creator of Ball Agencies Ltd, has successfully been supplying these stunning and innovative fashion brands to boutiques and department stores throughout New Zealand and Australia for over 25 years. With the amalgamation of Josephine Dickins Agency (JDA) the company has gone from strength to strength, offering more brands each season to its loyal clientele.

Nexus Business Sales Ltd licensed agent (REAA 2008)

COOL EMBRACE DENIM FABRICATION Borrowing COOLMAX technology from high-performance athletic wear, this fabric pulls away moisture to help you stay cool & comfortable no matter what the day brings.

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You’ll reach for this breathable, quick-drying denim every time, even when the mercury rises.

E S TA B L I S H E D N Z FA S H I O N B U S I N E S S F O R S A L E Locally designed and manufactured, using sustainable business practices, this iconic NZ brand produces high quality, unique fashion selling to both a NZ and Australian customer base. Turnover in excess of $1.1m plus GST, with strong margins.

The package includes a retail premises with rights of renewal, extensive website including webstore, strong social media presence and customer database, versatile product lines and excellent supplier and wholesale customer relationships.

With strong growth prospects and the potential to capitalise on the success of the existing business model this is an exciting opportunity for the right person to take this established and much loved brand to the next level.

Temperature Control

Reluctantly for sale for the first time at $220k plus SAV and GST (if any)

Moisture Wicking

Contact Michael for further information and your copy of the confidentiality agreement.

MICHAEL INDER

Quick Dry COOL MAX

R

E . michael.i@nexusbiz.co.nz M . [+64] 21 626 690 P . [+64] 3 443 0043

nexusbiz.co.nz/listing/NEX10197

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SWIMSUITS THAT FIT

UNIQUE STYLE AND TEXTURE

Never one to follow the latest trends, Julianna McLean wanted to create her own unique style with textures and fabrics that inspired her, so she started her brand JuliannaNZ. When it comes to designing, Julianna likes to be in the best creative environment and lights candles, puts on music and immerses herself in the beauty of vintage lace, silks of every hue, with pearls, quartz crystals and semiprecious stones that are all waiting to be placed.

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Customers often get tired of searching for the perfect bathing suit for the summer season and are put off when they only find swimsuits that were designed for women with tiny waistlines and larger bustlines.

Genevieve is an online retailer and wholesaler that specialises in selling the perfect bathing suit for any body type. Fuller-figured women needn’t worry as Genevieve has hundreds of bathing suits designed to flatter curves. The brand also caters to customers that have had a mastectomy. Genevieve understands the special needs of women with fuller figures. That’s why it offers swimsuits that have full liners, full coverage bottoms, integrated shelf bras and flattering cuts that are designed to bring out the beauty and confidence in customers, no matter what size or shape. In addition, the brand provides specialty, chlorine resistant suits designed with the active swimmer in mind.

If you want your customers to step out in style and comfort this summer, skip all of the swimsuits that just cover up and get amazing, bold and beautiful swimsuits from Genevieve and have your customers putting their best foot forward. Browse the latest collection for summer at www.genevieve.com.au. For wholesale enquiries contact Bruce Moore www.bma.co.nz.

“I feel this beauty and express it through my creations and celebrate the pleasure of having fun with romance and joy. After all, every day is an occasion for dressing well,” said Julianna.

“Every day I am so excited to create beautiful pieces, to finish off the finer detailing with the Swarovski crystals and pearls. Naturally all pieces are unique being handmade and couture, however, bespoke pieces can be requested.”

It is the attention to detail that underlies the

success of Julianna New Zealand; that and her own distinctive ability to impart joy into her creations.

“No one is making vintage lace anymore so I feel a responsibility of making each JuliannaNZ creation an heirloom piece to ensure the longevity of that original lace. Over the years I have sourced my materials from Rome, Paris and London, and the pearls from renewable sources.”

For more information contact Julianna on 027 866 7007 or email info@julianna.co.nz.

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IMPORTANCE OF STYLE COACHING

Margarita Politis

Having started in the industry 20 years ago following gaining a fashion design degree, Margarita Politis decided that while she loved to dress people, what was inside was also important to create the whole which led her to Style Coaching. “Style Coaching captures the magical essence of image consultancy and personal styling, and merges it with the powerfully transformative methods and tools of life coaching,” said Politis. “It also features all the key skills from the fields of personal shopping and even personal branding.

“Style Coaching is a holistic process that embraces the ‘whole’ person, inside and out! A Style Coach is someone who has been professional trained to be able to help others to enhance and embrace their physical appearance, so that it harmonises with their personality and the messages they would like to express. They also help others to ‘love the skin they’re in’ through an understanding of self-image psychology.”

THRIVING IN CREATIVE INDUSTRY

Enticed by the idea of sampling different options with minimal cost, recent Southern Institute of Technology (SIT) graduate Kasandra Rattrie has thrived in such a creative industry. She draws inspiration from her late mother, who instilled in her an appreciation for life, with her passing being the driving force behind pursuing a career in creative arts. “I want to help others express themselves through their clothing. My sister is my other main influence and she also studied fashion so it was natural for me to follow in her footsteps.”

Relocating to Invercargill with her aunt and uncle made the choice to study at SIT easy, a decision she said was the best one she had ever made. Her experience was so great that she did

Style Coaching offers a uniquely layered approach, the surface layer looks at topics like body shape analysis, style personality colour characteristics, wardrobe makeovers and personal shopping as well as every other aspect of the ‘appearance’. Deeper layers look at how appearance interrelates with the emotional states people experience on a daily basis like confidence, enthusiasm, motivation, inspiration and positive and negative emotions. “As we explore deeper still, we see how these daily emotions affect the bigger picture of our lives, like our relationships, career, finances, health and wellbeing, environment, goals and aspirations. It’s amazing how our appearance can be used as the starting point for a massive change process.

It can offer an incredible catalyst for Style Coaches who know how to nurture and maximise its potential.” If you’re looking for an outstanding career in personal styling, but you believe that people are so much deeper than a reflection in the mirror, then Style Coaching might just be the perfect choice for you. For more information contact Margarita on 0800 111 505, email info@margaritapolitis. co.nz or visit ww.stylecoachinginstitute.com.

not want to leave, inspired by the tutors, staff and facilities at her disposal which she is grateful to have had access to. Her time and effort at SIT did not go unrecognised, having swept up two of the Charles Parson’s Awards for both Top Design Student and Top Production student alongside receiving the Sewingtime Award for Academic Excellence. “My intention has always been to create projects that are true and that are tributes to the people and things I feel are important, so it’s never felt like work. It’s surreal to be rewarded for that.”

Alongside the awards, she has also been selected as one of two wardrobe interns for the 2016 World of Wearable Arts, an opportunity that was selected based on her work shown in the SIT graduate profile. “It’s going to be a mind blowing show with 120 incredible pieces. I’m super excited about it.” For more information visit www.sit.ac.nz or call 08004 ZERO FEES.

Kasandra Rattrie

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CUSTOMER DATA GETS SALES

FERNZ FIRMING EYE CREAM

FERNZ have introduced a Firming Eye Cream, the new skincare essential featuring pure New Zealand Bee Venom and Manuka Honey. The product is a rich gentle cream that is formulated to provide a firmer appearance under eyes by providing a plumping effect to smooth out fine lines. As people age, the shadows and wrinkles around our eyes become more visible and no amount of makeup can hide the tell-tale signs of ageing, in fact it can make them look worse. So it’s important for customers to invest in a great eye cream. FERNZ Firming Eye Cream is affordable and luxurious at the same time and it is formulated with efficient ingredients, nourishing Manuka Honey and Bee Venom. Bee Venom used in Firming Eye Cream has the ability to stimulate the skin acting as a vasodilator, vasodilation increases the blood flow to a region in this case around the eyes and also has an effect on cellular activity that induces the production of collagen and elastin building blocks to younger and firmer skin. Bee Venom also has significant anti-inflammatory activity through two key compounds found in venom – Melittin and Adolapin – which help to calm and relax the area under the eye. The Manuka Honey ingredient nourishes the delicate tissue to promote cell regeneration, and its natural antimicrobial properties protect against bacteria, for brighter and healthier skin. FERNZ Firming Eye Cream is particularly helpful to stressed and dehydrated skin by providing an environment where cellular regeneration may occur.

It is the ultimate lifting effect for younger-looking eyes. For more information on how to stock this fabulous product contact service@ fernz.co.nz or visit www.fernz.co.nz.

Lily James

Derek Jacobi

Korean online beauty product seller Memebox (pronounced ‘me-me box’) has raised US$66 million to continue expanding its cosmetics business. The company’s confidence stems from its approach to choose and develop products to sell. “We have tens of millions of data points about what customers want,” Memebox USA president Arnold Hur told Fortune. The site collects data from customer sales and feedback and can keep up to date with customers and the latest trends. “The rate of mistakes can be lowered if you have data and technology helping you get there,” said Hur. A fast product development cycle is said to be what keeps customers coming back for more. A significant amount of the company’s products have been developed in no more than six months and some in as little as two to four months.

Memebox has recently opened its first retail store in Korea, where it makes almost US$1,100 in sales per square foot.

Richard Madden

KIWI TAKES ON KYLIE

Social media star and entrepreneur Kylie Jenner has been accused of plagiarising Kiwi beauty blogger Shannon Harris’ (Shaanxo) eyeshadow palettes. The blogger has indirectly claimed that the Kylie Jenner ‘KyShadow’ palettes are rather similar to hers after she posted a picture of the two side-by-side. The post was quickly re-tweeted and favourite on social media.

Harris responded to all of the support – and the negative comments about how it was the same as any other palette, saying “I never once said “Kylie copied me” I made a joke because they look similar lol come on! Yes, like lots of palettes do! No beef here guys”.

iP is about innovative people If you’ve got a standout brand or design to protect talk to AJ Park today.

Coffee’s on us.

“Beautifully expressive ” VARIETY

Romeo and Juliet

BY WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE

IN CINEMAS AUGUST 25

Corinne Cole Partner +64 4 498 3445 corinne.cole@ajpark.com

10 I August 2016 AJP_Ad_Apparel_102.5mmx150mm_August2016.indd 1

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TALK ABOUT FABRICATION In an overcrowded menswear market, there is no point in being a ‘me too’ menswear manufacturer or retailer. Differentiation is key. While price is often the driver behind the way consumers shop, there are many cheaper garments that offer between a bit to nothing. Similarly there are overpriced garments that offer a classic style in the ‘Stratosphere Brands’ and this is driving retail customers away. However, it doesn’t have to always be about price, it can be more about realism within a price point in combination with the many features that the garment offers. Customers can be fooled once but not twice and good customer service is a factor in success for manufacturers and retailers. Not only must retailing staff present well, but also have the appropriate enthusiasm to pass the product knowledge from manufacturers on to the consumer. Staff need to talk about the fabrication, style, cut, washability/durability and advantages for example, and all the factors that sets a garment apart. They also need to know about the fit of all their collections. Garments need to have a purpose and functionality, if customers like it enough to take to the fitting room, they need to know about the right fit for them prior to ensure the sale isn’t lost.

“Often, I have found that customers listen to the youth that have passion about the industry,” said Geoff Alcock. “They are out there, I well remember when I was 20 I followed fashion passionately, and still do, and those 20 year olds are still out their keen to get into our industry.

Some working in the industry seemingly have lost their passion and don’t know what to do, the problem lies in that youth don’t have the wherewith all to finance retail.” For this reason, we should be blending youth with experience to ensure our industry has a strong future. Major chains like Brisoces, Kmart and The Warehouse advertise and keep advertising, this is something that Alcock believes is something independents need to consider how to get behind. “It is almost like standing in the middle of the road and expecting not to get run over. If retailers want to advertise to promote our brands in store, we will help in whatever way we can.”

Retailers should get on the bandwagon and fight in the market, for the generations to come if you are looking out your front window those walking past won’t be naked! Interested in talking to Lichfield? For more information contact Geoff. alcock@lichfield.co.nz or phone 0800 333 369.

MARTIN RETIRES

After 41 years at Ambler & Company, sales manager Darrol Martin has made the decision to retire. Martin began at the company as a sales rep in 1975 where he worked the Bay of Plenty area before moving to Auckland to take over the womenswear division for the top half of the North Island. Two years after that he then moved into the menswear division, where he took charge of all the sales for all the major accounts. This role included maintaining relationships with key export markets including Papua New Guinea, Norfolk Island, and Australia alongside centrally placed independent menswear stores in Auckland.

“The company has a certain presence in the marketplace which has been built up over many years.

It has been a great experience using this reputation to build excellent relationships with the various people I have worked with over my time with the company,” said Martin. Martin continued to grow, developing overseas markets, particularly in Australia where he had started with very little, as he took on the role of sales manager for New Zealand and Australia. It was at this time that that company acquired Klipper NZ LTD which expanded the range into ties and robes.

While he has no plans to remain active in the industry, he said he has valued his time with the company and is now focussed on building his house in Nelson.

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A DESIGNER’S PLAYGROUND Imagine looking at a computer, on one screen, a wellbuilt naked man, on the other an abstract looking set of patterned symmetrical shapes. These shapes, when clicked, dragged and dropped onto the photo-realistic 3D model are transformed into perfectly fitting track pants. This 3D technology is what chief executive of clothing manufacturer Kapinua, Ingo Schleuss and his team are excited about and the possibilities and flexibility it will bring to designers.

The software allows for fast and nearly infinite design parameters to be finalised on screen in 3D on any body size, and then entered into Kapinua’s digital production line to create those exact designs. Schleuss considers the production line to be perhaps the most advanced of its type in the country, and he’s building a big reputation for making complex, customised, embellished clothing and giving customers nearunlimited choice in design, texture and imagery.

The suite of digital dye-sublimation, embroidery, appliqué, vinyl transfer and laser cloth-cutting

THE END OF BARCODES? Forty-two years ago, the introduction of barcoding forever changed retailing with a system that sped checkout and gave store managers a new tool to track their stock. Retail is on the cusp of another equally momentous change that could even sound the death knell for the black and white bars. RFID (radio frequency identification), or barcodes on steroids, as some retailers call it, is gaining favour with retailers looking to boost sales, streamline inventory management, checkout and security. RFID tracking technology lets retailers identify individual stock items and information wirelessly, without need for a line of

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sight. It involves small tags embedded in product price labels that emit a unique signal read by remote scanners. Software displays a range of information, including stock item description, quantities and in store location. Scanners read stock items tags from as far away as six metres and record hundreds of tags per second, allowing staff to count entire shelves in a single moment by simply walking around the store.

Some stores find it cost-effective to install permanent RFID scanners to provide real-time monitoring of stock and build a picture of how customers move around the store. With more than 2,000 stores across Europe deploying RFID systems this year alone, retailers have seen gross margin increases of more

systems allows for massive design and manufacturing flexibility, including enabling any combination of those techniques to be used on a single item of clothing.

The team at Levin-based Kapinua do much of the design work themselves, producing clothing from the generalised ideas of end-user customers such as sport clubs. He sees huge potential in having clothing designers learn more about their systems, perhaps even getting to know their 3D design software, and with that knowledge letting their expertise and imaginations run free.

“We’re a designer’s playground,” said Schleuss as he pointed to stacks of textured fabric and reels of highend cotton thread sitting alongside the flashing computerised blades and needles of Kapinua’s machines. “We’re able to produce detail in clothing that others just can’t match. Let your ideas run wild, don’t limit them, and we can create them for you.”

Even if you want to make just a single piece of clothing to test a design, the entire set-up is ideal for that too. To learn more contact Kapinua on 06 367 2277 or email info@kapinua.com.

than five percent. And as retailers embrace web stores and shipping, RFID is increasingly viewed as essential to maintaining an accurate view of stock managed at different locations. Watch this space.

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12 I August 2016

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SOPHISTICATED DESIGN AND CLASSIC STYLE Rock My Socks new sock range launched in June 2016 consists of 15 curated styles and has been refined and perfected for the modern gents wardrobe. The focus of this particular collection is sophisticated design and classic style with traditional patterns and colour combinations used to create a timeless collection. You will find this sock range fits effortlessly with every stylish man’s threads, and can be worn both with suits to the office as well as jeans or chino’s and leather kicks on the weekend. This range is a more paired back, subtle take on the statement sock. “It’s our third collection and reflects designs, colours and an overall concept of what the marketplace is telloing us they are looking for, a more understated look,” said Crystal Lenaghan, co-founder. “For example we have a number of styles with a navy base which have proven to be very popular.

“From the start we have built the brand around popular patterns and classic styles such as stripes and spots, which are the best sellers, so we make

sure we have a range of colours both rbright and bold as well as more classic and demure to satisfy and give options to our wide range of customers.”

The Rock My Socks brand was created in late 2013 to inject personality inot men’s often dull and boring wardrobes, giving them a way to individualise their look, express their style and enjoy getting dressed in the morning. “We strived to create an exciting brand experience, with a well designed product that is high quality, affordable and on trend, with statement socks becoming an increasingly popular and improtant outfit musthave for men around the world.

After seeing the fashion forward European men wearing bright patterned socks under their trendy threads, a style which had not been seen on Melbourne streets before, the brand took inspiration from the time that co-founder Sean Lenaghan spent living in London. For more information visit www.rockmysocks.com

SHOES FIT FOR OLYMPIAN

Footwear company Under Armour has created a pair of special 3D printed custom shoes for veteran Olympic swimmer Michael Phelps.

Using 3D-printed midsole technology, the shoes were released this year as part of the company’s UA Architech brand. The footprint of Phelps’ son Boomer was added on the insole for a more personal touch. UA Architech includes an interlaced lattice midsole that can only be created using 3D print technology. Each pair has a 3D printed upper that can be customised for every individual.

A LITTLE SOCK FROM SANTA CRUZ

Family-owned business Socksmith originally opened a little 450sft sock boutique in 1988. In 2007 the company set out on a new journey to design socks, then Socksmith Design was born. After years of experience talking to customers, the California-based business knew what sock designs were out there and wanted to create a better artisan brand with a West Coast point of view.

Known for its freethinking creativity and laid-back surf style, the design process is done in Santa Cruz, which is an inspiration in itself. Having set its motto as “no boring socks” the brand set out to design a relevant collection of men’s and women’s novelty socks and knee-highs that would make people smile. “High quality, colourful, bold graphics and fun, creative designs are what we’re all about,” said Ellen and Eric Gil, creators of Socksmith. The brand is constantly adding to the range with out-of-the-box ideas.

“Our company is named Socksmith Design because that is always going to be our focus, as a design company first. Our graphics are a cut above the rest with our talented in-house designers spending copious amounts of time meticulously crafting every image we use. We use high quality materials that don’t wear out.” Socksmith Design is distributed in New Zealand and Australia by JF Group International. If you’re interested in stocking Socksmith contact, sales@jfgroup. co.nz. The range is updated twice yearly for summer and winter and JF Group carry stock of all the styles to allow easy reordering by stockists.

For more information visit www.socksmith.co.nz.

Beautiful - Natural - Warm - Traceable - Indoor Shoes

For stockists go to www.socksmith.co.nz

0800 GLERUPS (45 37 877)

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Pania Greenaway, Miromoda Emerging Designer Award 2016

Create Your Future

Massey at #NZFW2016 – ones to watch!

Alana Cooper Grace Redgrave Megan Stewart Len Houkamau Pania Greenaway Sarah Parker creative.massey.ac.nz

14 I August 2016

EDIT. Backed by almost 20 years of retail experience, Luke Crowther has taken his pop-up store and transformed it into a permanent space with locations in Auckland, Wellington and Melbourne. He started his journey in fashion retail in 1997 while studying at Auckland University’s Elam School of Fine Arts, learning the basics of selling at Barkers Men’s Clothing before moving on to work with the Saks Group in the early 2000’s.

His first taste of multi-site retail management came when he joined the team at Satori, where he worked as the buyer and retail manager. The role saw him travel to Italy several times a year to attend trade shows while being responsible for trend forecasting, buying readymade garments, footwear, and accessories, all the while managing all of the Italian production.

When Satori was placed into liquidation, he saw an opportunity to branch out and fill in the newly created gap in the market.

“I began in mid-2009 with pop-up shops selling Italian clothing and footwear. I initially opened pop-ups in Auckland, Wellington and Melbourne bouncing around until I settled in locations that worked. It was 2010 that Edit. was born,” said Crowther.

The store experience is centred on service, with the team aiming to engage with customers as much as possible. It is for this reason that there is only one of each style on display, prompting customers to ask staff for different sizing. This kind of service lends itself to staff following up with complimentary items and outfit selections, providing the customer with a full shopping experience. The idea is to provide a service that the customer could not get sitting at a computer, in a shift to combat the rise in popularity of online shopping.

On deciding where to open his stores, the philosophy has always been the same. There needs to be a combination of good surrounding tenants, both clothing and cafes, proximity to easy parking and ideally, a location just around the corner from the main street and big rents. Because the stock is high-end, he is retailing to a small demographic and has found he can afford to be slightly ‘destination’.

“The biggest challenge has been managing stores, staff and product in different cities and countries.

Retail staff that take the industry seriously require some transparency and like to know and be included in certain decisions.”

The space is designed to be as simple as possible, with the store aesthetic focusing on telling the customer visually what is most important – luxury in its finest form. Styles, texture and fabrics are used to tell a visual story, having recently worked with interior designer Lauren Hare from Hare Interiors to update the Vulcan Lane and Teed Street stores.

Stock for the store is generally exclusive to New Zealand, having been sourced internationally to provide the customer with brands they have not yet been exposed to. Brands include Roberto Collina, Buttero, Transit, Crossley, Doucal’s, Gian Carlo Rossi, Aglini, Oliver Spencer, YMC, Want Les Essentiels, Garrett Leight, Y-3, Adidas x Raf Simons, and Adidas x Rick Owens. Unlike a majority of other menswear retailers, the stock at Edit. is focussed on alternative casualwear which may not scream big name brand, but appeals to customers who appreciate quality.

Edit. customers are typically not defined by age, but more importantly, share the same attitude. They are confident purchasers with a strong sense of style who aim to set themselves apart from others. Value is placed in choosing artisan made garments over mass-produced product, and they are more than likely to be involved in the creative industries and want to express their personality through clothing rather than hide amongst the crowd. Social media has played a big role in the development of the Edit. brand, having been used to generate hype surrounding new products, alongside collaborations with influencers that has paid dividends by exposing the stores to a range of new customers.

Looking forward at upcoming trends, Crowther said the sport-luxe movement continues to grow and has been a big influence in his purchasing decisions. This, alongside a shift in menswear to fuller silhouettes, has meant trousers are typically much wider at the cuff with the introduction of pleats and more casual dressing.

“I saw this trend internationally a couple of years ago and promptly introduced Y-3, the partnership between Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas and the first brand to combine luxury and sportswear, a partnership that I have worn personally for many years.”

While he could not give specifics, new developments are already in the works for Edit. with Crowther determined to continuously develop a stronger brand and product offering.

column

WHEN FASHION MEETS TECH: Intellectual Property Considerations By definition, ‘fashion’ represents the latest craze or trend in [you name it] – décor, design, textiles, games, gadgets. In the world of apparel, fashion trends come and go, like the seasons. Shaped by society, culture, the media, art and a myriad of other influences, clothing fashions are both ephemeral and evolutionary.

One international apparel trend that has caught my eye recently, is ‘fashion tech’. From fancy frocks that glow, to smart textiles that embed sensors to track a wearer’s biometric data, and reflective, protective streetwear, the possibilities brought by advances in technology when combined with design, are endless. No longer does one need to choose function over form, or vice versa. Providing there are strong underlying design principles tech-driven garments and accessories need not be bereft of style, too sci-fi, or gimmicky.

Protecting your fashion creations

From an intellectual property standpoint, fashion designers have traditionally sought to protect their brands and creations through registered trade marks, copyright, and sometimes design registrations.

Trade marks are used to protect brands in the form of logos, names, slogans, sounds, colours, or smells.

Well-known examples in the world of fashion include the registered marks for Prada, Chanel, and Christian Louboutin. Closer to home, examples include the brands of Karen Walker, Andrea Moore, Trelise Cooper, Huffer, and Kathryn Wilson, to name only a few.

Copyright is used to protect the expression of

an idea, but not the idea itself, so design sketches, textile patterns, garment and footwear prototypes, photographs, and colour arrangements, for example.

In a recent case, Italian luxury footwear maker Aquazzura sued Ivanka Trump’s company for copyright infringement claiming that it had stolen the design of its hugely popular ‘Wild Thing’ sandal.

According to Aquazzura, Trump’s ‘Hettie’ design has copied ‘nearly every detail’ of the Wild Thing. The case remains open.

Registered designs are used to protect the visual appearance or shape of a product. To be registrable, a design feature must be new. Athletic clothing and footwear giant Nike, has a history of successfully registering designs for its footwear which invariably feature strong design and performance elements.

What if your creations combine fashion and technology? Do the same tools for intellectual property protection apply?

In short, yes. But there may be other considerations worth bearing in mind. For example, if you are a fashion designer who is collaborating with a tech company, you’ll want to establish early on who owns what IP, how it can be used, and how each party is compensated.

Wearable tech is often based on years of research and development, and by its nature it can have multiple applications regardless of how it’s worn or used. In most cases, some form of IP protection will

be available for the technology itself. This could come in the form of designs, trade secrets, or even patents.

If you’re on the leading edge of technologyinspired fashion, chances are you’ll be innovating faster than ever before, creating novel concepts, designs, and products that can be protected with IP rights in some form. Take time to understand the role played by IP in that process because as Londonbased designers CuteCircuit recently predicted ‘all the devices we currently carry around with us – our mobile phones, cameras and wristwatches – will, in the future, disappear and become part of our clothing’. CuteCircuit says ‘technology is already getting up close and personal with the exclusive world of fashion’.

The important thing to remember is that IP is a business tool which needs to be considered at the earliest possible stage of the creative process. Used in the right way, it can help drive value and brand equity in a business, or help you guard against others copying your work.

If you need help to understand when, where, how and whether to protect your creations, seek advice from a qualified IP professional.

By Caroline Cole Partner, AJ Park

GET THE WHITECLIFFE EDGE Whitecliffe Fashion Design graduates think creatively, take risks, and have a high level of industry standard technical skill. They are innovators with a personal vision who build careers as highly respected professionals within the Fashion industry. www.whitecliffe.ac.nz JORGE ALFARO

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colour trending

Colours of Aotearoa

For the first time in its three-year history, the Resene Colours of Fashion Project has incorporated black into the selection of colours, including Resene Gumboot and Resene All Black, as to better represent the New Zealand market. “We decided a New Zealand collection showcasing the colour of fashion wouldn’t be truly complete without black,” said Karen Warman, marketing manager, Resene. In collaboration with New Zealand Fashion Tech, ten Fashion Design Diploma students were chosen to showcase their silk creations to open the Resene Designer Runway event held at the main stage of the 2016 New Zealand Fashion Week.

Clare Waterings RESENE Coast

Olli Paroli RESENE Permanent Green

Fiona Chi RESENE Daredevil

An early OE has forever influenced the future designs of Clare Waterings, who at 16 left her school in Taupo to return to her family’s homeland of Holland before attending a French high school and travelling around France. This experience is reflected in her designs which are distinctly inspired by European architecture, including her most recent design which she executed using silk in the colour of Resene Coast.

“Using the idea of contrast, I took the coast and many things you’d see on it and picked something that could be as beautiful as a coastline. I thought of buildings and architecture.”

Bold and adventurous is how Fiona Chi would describe her outfit, incorporating elements of tailoring and straight lines. True to the name of her chosen colour, Resene Daredevil, the result is a sharp and dramatic two-piece look with the top being the standout item paired with a subtle black pant.

“I chose to pair my colour with a dark contrast in the pants to make it feel edgy and stand out from the crowd.

This contrast also displays a bold and adventurous side,” said Chi. She likened the colour to adrenalin, which is how she described her journey in fashion so far, parallel to her fiery personality which drives her to create designs that are not afraid to demand attention.

Colours available from

Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363 16 I August 2016

Fascinated with gender neutrality, Olli Paroli focussed his design on the story of a breakup by mixing elements of a man’s shirt with a silk camisole. The creation is a new interpretation on the boyfriend shirt that he explained is the last piece of clothing left by the customer’s former lover. He said the haunting green colour of Resene Permanent Green captures the darkness needed to tell the story without having to resort to using black.

One of the students to embrace the new black options was Liam Julian-Hunapo, who sought to Liam Julian-Hunapo re-imagine the typical swanndri RESENE Gumboot and stubbies, an iconic New Zealand staple and translate it into a modern 2016 alternative.

Executed in the colour Resene Gumboot, Hunapo also included a pop of red in the form of silk lining which is matched to Resene Poppy. His journey to fashion began at 15 where he was unsure as to where he wanted to go in life until a teacher directed him towards fashion classes at school. Ultimately he ended up at New Zealand Fashion Tech where he has now been offered the opportunity to travel to Asia along with nine other students after being awarded a Prime Minister’s Scholarship.

Jordan Noah RESENE Grass Hopper Samantha-Jane Gilliver RESENE Poppy

Johanna Sporry RESENE Irresistible

Silk is not the easiest fabric to work with, and to translate that into a piece of origami is an even bigger feat. But Samantha-Jane Gilliver is not afraid of a challenge, incorporating a black silk origami belt into her red Resene Poppy dress. She focused her attention on texture while keeping a simple silhouette in mind which resulted in the design of a modern halter neck dress that incorporated both contemporary and rebellious design elements.

“Poppies are symbolic of dreams and induced escapes.

Laying in a field of gently swaying poppies I wanted to create something bold and feminine,” said Gilliver.

Vivid colours and the introduction of a petal-like ruffle on the skirt are central elements to Johanna Sporry’s design, who was drawn to how flower petals layered on each other to create form. She took silk in the colour Resene Irresistible and transformed it into a cocktail dress described as indelibly bright and impossible to ignore.

Sophie Sargent RESENE Buttercup

No stranger to vibrant colours and attention grabbing fabrics, Jordan Noah uses her love of dance and history of jazz dance competitions to create strong designs including this wide leg jumpsuit relating to the colour Resene Grass Hopper. Green immediately brings to mind imagery of nature, which is an element she wanted to play on throughout the design process.

“The flowy wide leg pant is inspired by the freeflowing feelings as you settle among native trees and the pleated top is inspired by the line texture seen on a grasshopper’s underbelly,” said Noah.

Ganga Patel RESENE Salsa

Saraiah Tewaa RESENE Limerick

For a showcase that is focussed on colour, it is not unusual to see elements of colour blocking and student Sophie Sargent has paired her chosen colour of Resene Buttercup with two others to execute a strong and striking three-piece outfit which overall finds its own balance. Before joining New Zealand Fashion Tech in Wellington, she had previously completed a Bachelor of Arts in theatre studies at Victoria University, with the overall goal of joining her two passions, fashion and theatre, together.

Having started at New Zealand Fashion Tech’s Wellington campus 18 months ago with no prior knowledge of sewing, Saraiah Tewaa has embraced every opportunity to learn. Her energy and passion have led to her being awarded the opportunity to present her green Resene Limerick creation at the showcase this year, which was recreated during an exchange to India as part of her Prime Minister’s Scholarship for Asia. Her full body jumpsuit with long sleeves incorporated a unique ruffle design sewn into a front seam of the leg, executed in an interesting chrome coloured silk that caught the light and reflected multiple hues of blue and green.

Inspired by the emotional effect of the colour red, alongside her Maori/Indian heritage, Ganga Patel mixed her love of dressing up in a traditional sari with elements of contemporary design to produce a modern outfit that plays to her strengths. She was inspired by the eternal knot, fascinated with how it overlaps without a beginning or end and symbolising the Buddha’s endless wisdom and compassion. The knot serves as a merging point for the two reds, one of which is inspired by Resene Salsa, with the open skirt showing the patterned border of the sari on the inside.

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18 I August 2016

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THE DESIGNERS

TWENTY-SEVEN NAMES Rachel Easting and Anjali Stewart have been best friends since primary school, and have joined their studies of fine arts and fashion design to form a growing fashion line, Twenty-Seven Names. The pair both studied in Dunedin before relocating to Wellington in 2006, where they say they have been at it ever since.

Described as effortless charm, the duo design with simplicity and wearability in mind, while still drawing influence from vintage fashion and detailing. Stock is located in various stores across New Zealand, Australia and the UK, although the new flagship store in Auckland’s Newmarket is proof of the hard work that has been put in to building the brand.

Their showcase at New Zealand Fashion Week is one of the different expansion tactics at play, with 2016 proving to be a big year already and even more plans set for 2017.

ERIK-YVON Great designers have an innate talent for creating beautiful work, a skill that can never be taught. It was for this reason that Erik Yvon was accepted into Melbourne’s RMIT with no practical sewing skills, equipped only with his vision and extensive portfolio of well thought out fashion illustrations.

“Studying fashion design at university was an eye opening experience into the industry. I had no idea how much work was involved in just one piece of clothing,” said Yvon.

After interning with different Australian fashion labels including

20 I August 2016

FEDERATION

Having bounced back from difficult times, designer and owner Jenny Joblin is full of desire to build Federation into New Zealand’s strongest streetwear brand.

She got her start in the industry juggling a job in the workroom at Karen Walker while studying fashion design at AUT. Since then she has helped launch and develop a brand with a strong presence in the New Zealand market.

“Federation is a streetwear brand that loves a bit of art and good designs with subtle points of difference,” said Joblin.

This year she has decided to show the brand as a whole experience at New Zealand Fashion Week, supported by a strong network of stockists throughout New Zealand and Australia.

October will see the team move into a new workroom and showroom, while the flagship store in Auckland’s Takapuna continues to perform well.

Romance Was Born, and Neo Dia he quickly recognised he needed to take it a step further and follow his dream of launching his own brand.

His designs are bold, culturally diverse, gender neutral and locally made in Melbourne where he endeavours to engage with local family run businesses to support the community.

The latest collection Gang Gang, which was recently featured in Vogue Italia, is what he will show at this year’s New Zealand Fashion Week where he hopes to achieve not only local but international industry attention in order to further build his brand.

“Our main focus is to keep doing what we do best, beautiful and thoughtful garments. We take each day as it comes and enjoy ourselves in the process. You never know what the future holds.”

AO

New Zealand Fashion Week 2016 marks the first time Antoine Ogilvie has presented his brand AO in a catwalk scenario where he hopes to bridge the gap between his designs and potential new stockists. Since winning the overall prize for the 2015 YMCA Walk The Line show, he has taken his interest in fashion blogging and translated it into a growing streetwear brand which draws on elements of conservative luxe for the discerning customer.

He works closely with different influencers to promote his designs, with some of his most recent projects seeing the team travel to New York later in the year to work alongside bloggers, photographers and stylists to garner international attention.

“As a new-generation business, deadcentre in a market that is becoming increasingly socially conscious, it is critical that as AO grows, we continue to operate in a way that is conductive to the longevity of the environment, and diligent in ensuring offshore working conditions are of an ethical nature.”

JARRAD GODMAN Experimental patterning, dark undertones and humorous references form the backbone of Jarrad Godman’s design. Before starting his fashion design degree at AUT, he was lucky enough to get a job working for Auckland based fashion PR agency Ciel PR. It’s here that he formed long standing relationships with industry professionals who in turn have become valuable connections in the development of his brand.

“I was lucky enough to have my graduation collection ordered almost straight from the runway by Children

OVNA OVICH

Inspiration comes from a variety of places, but for Marina Davis, her eureka moment arrived when she considered designing a collection made from Global Organic Textile Standard certified organic cotton and recycled waste from a dump shop.

The process saw her break down rubber and plastics before handknitting and weaving them into new textiles. It was at this time sustainable fashion label Kowtow contacted her, offering her a job as their new designer. While she took the job, she continues to develop her own range, Ovna Ovich, continuing the work she had started, and is this year showcasing at New Zealand Fashion Week.

“I would like to think that being involved in NZFW will create more awareness around what Ovna Ovich is about,” said Davis.

The brand has a range of stockists in New Zealand, with a slow expansion happening into Australia through carefully selected stores, as well as one location in Los Angeles, America.

of Vision which is where my label had its start.”

He has also collaborated with established brands Servilles and Ryder, which has helped push the brand to the next level. This year he will collaborate with Servilles again at New Zealand Fashion Week in a creative showcase designed to attract a wider audience, while looking for potential new stockists both nationally and internationally.

The Shelter has taken a keen interest in his designs, increasing its stock of the brand which Godman curates himself to ensure there is always something new on the racks, even between seasons. His designs are also available at ENA in Wellington, Company Store in Dunedin, and White Willow Fashion in Balclutha, a list that is sure to grow post-fashion week.

THE DESIGNERS

WINIFRED

Having already showcased at the 2016 iD Dunedin Railway show, Kenya Quin is taking her Winifred label to the stage of New Zealand Fashion Week. The show will be an extension of her graduate collection which she said is rooted in high-quality finishes and has a strong focus on ready-to-wear womenswear. Her work is characterised by eclectic styling which can be layered or worn as separates, using volume, fit, and flare. While the collection is available to view on her website, a new online design collective, Bijou Studio, is set to launch later in the year with Winifred already signed on as one of its labels.

HARMAN GRUBISA

Beautiful, forward and timeless is the new womenswear brand Harman Grubiša developed by Madeleine Harman and Jessica Grubiša. Both designers have been working in the fashion industry in many roles for several years. In 2014, the duo launched the brand with their two very different aesthetics. The team hope to grab international wholesalers attention along with press. The two are over the moon to partner with Mercedes-Benz for the Mercedes-Benz Presents show this year at New Zealand Fashion Week. The Harman Grubiša range is currently available to buy from 47 Frocks, Caughlys, Rouche, Palm Boutique, online on their website and their flagship store in Ponsonby, Auckland.

KHARL-WILLIAM WIREPA A self-proclaimed fashionista, KharlWilliam Wirepa has taken his lifelong interest in fashion and moved into design. His background is as an international visual merchandiser which has seen him travel around the world gathering inspiration that he can funnel into his creations.

His ready-to-wear range is limited, with a majority of his focus being spent on creating unique and

DANIELLE POWER-SILK

WORLD

high-quality couture garments for customers who appreciate the personal touch. That being said, as the brand grows he is looking to expand both sides of the business which he is hoping to achieve by showcasing at New Zealand Fashion Week 2016.

“We are aiming to attract new stockists and investors while growing our partnership relationships, both existing and yet to come,” said Wirepa.

His aesthetic is suited to a dramatic, theatrical and confident customer,

incorporating elements of modern cuts, romantic silhouettes and subtle but effective pop-culture references throughout the collections.

A new head office in Rotorua is a sure sign the business is doing well, alongside a new luxury boutique set to open in Tauranga in December.

A lifelong love of fashion made Danielle Power-Silk’s decision to pursue the industry as a career easy, and after her taste of success at last year’s Walk The Line show at New Zealand Fashion Week she has become hooked.

“My vision is to create a global luxury fashion house,” said Power-Silk.

Returning this year as part of the New Generation section of Fashion Week, she has developed her brand to be strong and feminine, designing clothes that look and feel luxurious while enhancing the natural shape of a woman’s body.

“I am launching at Fashion Week to carve a place for myself in the industry, to create more and sell my designs from Collection Number One.”

Established in 1989 by Denise L’Estrange-Corbet and Francis Hooper, WORLD is a personality brand filled with a factory of ideas and experiments.

This is fuelled by their energy, passion and vision for their brand which transformed WORLD from a label at the back of an arcade to one of New Zealand’s leading fashion houses.

By being part of NZFW this year, the team at WORLD want to celebrate forward thinking fashion with their staff, customers, friends and family.

They are also looking forward to opening their first store in Queenstown with a full range of both mens and womens fashion, accessories and WORLD Beauty. Available from all WORLD stores and online.

SEE US at the International Sourcing Expo, 15-17th November 2016, Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre

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THE DESIGNERS

GRACE REDGRAVE Sustainability is paramount in the work produced by Massey University graduate Grace Redgrave. Her zerowaste approach to pattern making and construction has put her apart from other designers, alongside her dedication to using only ethical and sustainable suppliers, right down to knowing the mills where her fabric is being produced.

The evidence is seen in the final product, with distinct construction qualities and fine details emphasising the unique nature of zero-waste design.

“I am lining up collaborations postFashion Week with photographers and other creatives, hoping to get some orders so I can keep spreading the word on what I am doing,” said Redgrave.

Having just launched her new website, this year’s Fashion Week is a cornerstone showcase for the brand, which is getting ready to take on stockists and boost production.

“Sustainability in fashion is a movement that needs to happen, and is evolving, which I will continue to be a part of.”

STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB Quickly summed up as ‘fashion you can hear’ designer Marc Moore has translated his fierce love of music into the 11-year strong fashion brand, Stolen Girlfriends Club.

He describes the company as a brand with a pulse, focussed on entertainment and giving its customers not just clothes they like but experiences they remember.

“We love putting on shows. It’s a big part of the reason why we do what we do. The show gives us the ability to entertain and engage with our community. It’s a way of telling the story of the collection without having to spell it out in black and white,” said Moore.

The focus moving forward is on developing more leather offerings, one of its most commercially successful categories. It has been so successful that there are now waiting lists for its current Classic Biker Jacket, prompting questions about what else they could develop in the range.

The brand is focussed predominantly in New Zealand. However, there is a range of international stockists alongside the continued development of its local wholesale and flagship retail, both online and physical.

MOTEL BIBLE

With a scramble to enter the Miromoda competition in June, Reremoana Sheridan combined her love of home sewing and frequent market trips to develop a new fashion label, Motel Bible, which she will showcase at this year’s New Zealand Fashion Week.

She describes the brand as a mix of versatility and character, mindful of creating pieces that can be worn day and night through different seasons.

The goal is to produce garments that have longevity, and will stick with the customer for an extended period. This is achieved through a subtle use of detailings paired with a muted colour palette as to aid in the versatility of wear.

“I want to build confidence in myself by showing at Fashion Week. It would be great if I could secure some stockists to build a relationship with and who can help me further build the brand,” said Sheridan.

Along with fellow designer AJ Bradley, Sheridan is currently in the process of opening a shared design space, The Slow Trade, to the public as a combined showroom and design studio alongside an online store postFashion Week.

NOT FOR YOU

As an intrinsically artistic person, Jerome Taylor fell into the fashion world naturally. He initially began creating art when he was inspired by Banksy to experiment with graffiti, to which he received offers from people wanting to buy his work. Trying to keep it a hobby, he declined and began experimenting with other forms of art.

Fashion took him by surprised and he fell in love.

While working in insurance, he began taking sewing lessons as to bring his creativity to life. Two years of that and he made the decision to pursue it as a full time career. Now he is a fully qualified machinist and pattern maker, having graduated from New Zealand Fashion Tech and is about to show his work at this year’s New Zealand Fashion Week.

The brand is a high-end menswear label inspired by art, music, love, heartache and current events catered to customers who are looking to demand attention. Currently the brand is looking for new stockists, with plans to have stock on shelves in the coming months. By next year he wants to have Not For You sold in Wellington, Auckland and Christchurch, which he hopes showing at New Zealand Fashion Week will achieve.

Contact us now to discuss your needs.

Phone: +64 9 255 2560 I Mobile: 021 769 560 Email: john@dsl.co.nz I www.dsl.co.nz

22 I August 2016

THE DESIGNERS

MEGAN STEWART

Learning by experience is one of the best ways to completely understand how something works, designer Megan Stewart recognised this and immersed herself in the fashion industry from a young age. Her hard word at Massey University rewarded her with the opportunity to work as a design intern at Kate Sylvester, an experience she said is one of the best things she could have done as it left her with a deeper understanding of how a label is put together. Her designs are centred on the philosophy of creating clothing that tells a story through shape and textiles, all while keeping her fresh perspective as a recent graduate.

“I am hoping the opportunity to show at New Zealand Fashion Week will help open doors and introduce me to more talented people. The process has already taught me many more important skills, which will help me get to where I want to be,” said Stewart.

While she grows, the goal is to move further down the path of ready-to-wear, hoping to build enough interest to justify larger production and a stable stock stream.

AQUA BLU

Strong, beautiful and confident women are the driving force behind Kristian Chase’s creative vision for swimwear label Aqua Blu. The company was established in 2000, and in its 16 years has grown to be an iconic Australian designed and styled brand. Chase joined the Aqua Blu team as creative director in 2013, bringing with him experience working for labels including Dior, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Moet Hennessy, and David Jones.

Since his appointment the brand has moved from strength to strength, picking up international media attention as well as producing some of its most memorable designs. The next big thing for the company will be its showcase at this year’s New Zealand Fashion Week, where New Zealand buyers and media can experience the new creative direction Aqua Blu has taken.

FRENCH83

In her graduate year at Whitecliffe College of Art & Design, Nicole Wesseling took part in the Restyle Project organised by French83. To her surprise, immediately after her graduation show, she was approached by the company, who wanted her to come on board as its new designer.

Aside from her role of designing the collections, she has been a part of the company’s expansion into Asia, with the added responsibility of producing clothing that can work across a now international market.

“The vision for the company is to bring the balanced New Zealand lifestyle to the rest of the world,” said Wesseling.

New Zealand Fashion Week will play a big part in putting the brand in front of international buyers as the company continues to explore its options outside of New Zealand.

This includes its new concept store in Beijing, with more planned throughout Asia.

EM&CAIT

Design is almost always a collaborative process, and for design duo Caty Bartholomeusz and Emily Chin, the spark began while studying together at New Zealand Fashion Tech. Their hands-on experience equipped them with the skills they needed to launch on their own right out of school, where they strive to produce quality ethical clothing that experiments with anti-figurative silhouettes equally with referencing the human body.

“Being involved in New Zealand Fashion Week is an incredible and valuable opportunity for us. As Budding designers we feel that this has been such an astonishing milestone to have achieved this early in our careers,” said Bartholomeusz.

Not knowing what to expect, the pair is excited to see what will happen post-Fashion Week, recognising its significance as a Launchpad for their careers in the industry.

THE AGENT FOUR GENERATIONS STRONG

With a strong backbone in the apparel sector, Michael Court is a fourth generation Court from George Court & Sons Ltd using his 40 years of industry experience to promote independent New Zealand and Australian brands.

After working as the general manager

at Composite Retail Group collectively for almost 17 years, he has grown his business, Court Agencies, to represent an array of both New Zealand and Australian fashion labels across menswear and womenswear.

His approach to business is personal, travelling across the country with his

labels, making sure to see accounts instore as to better understand the market they are selling to with Vigorella being one of his key clients.

Founded in 2004 by Jenny Zeuschner, Vigorella is an Australian brand focussed on the typical Australian lifestyle. The name is derivative of the Spanish words vigor meaning strength and power, and ella meaning her, which paints a picture of the ideal Vigorella customer. She is described as a strong, creative and passionate woman who takes control of her own style.

Using signature stretch fabrics, textures and bold colours, the Vigorella brand is designed to embrace freedom by encouraging customers to experiment.

Zeuschner said the Vigorella woman is not dictated by trends, and would rather be inspired by timeless creations that remain classic and become part of an everyday wardrobe.

For more information, contact Michael Court on 021 244 4647 or email: court.agencies@gmail.com

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 23

t he models INDIANA COOPER

ARIKI McKINNEY

KAYLEE MANT

ELLA MURPHY

Both of Indiana Cooper’s parents are former-models, so it was no surprise when she turned to family friend Rose Packard-Dube, owner of RPD Models, when she was 15-years-old to launch her modelling career. Cooper remembers watching Victoria’s Secret Angels on TV, but says her mother was always her biggest inspiration.

“She always has great stories from her modelling career and it makes me want to experience it even more,” said Cooper. Modelling for over three years now, she has signed with Chic Management in Sydney and has recently returned from her first trip over. “I am very grateful to be signed overseas, giving me the opportunity to travel and explore the fashion industry,” said Cooper.

Cooper’s ultimate goal is to become a Victoria’s Secret Angel, and would love to live in New York.

Ariki Mckinney became a model after his mother sneakily sent away images to Kirsty Bunny Management when he was 16-years-old. As a child he was inspired

by Billy Zane who starred in The Phantom movie in 1996. The American superhero film directed by Simon Wincer was based on Lee Falk’s comic strip which showcased a seemingly immortal crime fighter who battled against all forms of evil.

Mckinney has been modelling for a couple of years now, but also works in Wellington as a barber. Mckinney is signed with Red11, Vivien’s in Sydney, Michael Hooker International and his mother agency KBM. After completely his first successful trip to Sydney earlier this year for MBFWA, Mckinney plans to head back again later this year and hopefully further in 2017. Even though Mckinney is not aiming for any particular modelling job to snag, he is excited to be back at NZFW this year and said any shows he gets is a bonus.

Photographer Jodi Melody approached Kaylee Mant when she was shopping to see if she could do some modelling for her. Melody then sent the imagery to Kirsty Bunny Management where Mant was then signed. Walking for Dmonic Intent last year at NZFW has been Mant’s biggest achievement for her first year of modelling. Mant is in her final year at Victoria University studying HR, Management and International Business.

She plans to enjoy her final months in the capital before heading into the corporate world. Growing up Mant looked up to Chloe Sevigny because of her style. “Nowadays the people who inspire me are my own friends and family who are doing amazing things with their lives,” Mant explained.

Seeing new talent at the Graduate Show is what Mant is looking forward to the most for NZFW this year.

Currently finishing her degree in design, Ella Murphy loves meeting all the crazy talented people she finds in the fashion industry. Scouted in Auckland by Sara Tetro from 62 Models, Ella Murphy was just 13-years-old. Her parents thought she was too young and Murphy found herself being scouted a second time when she was 16-years-old by Katherine Lowe.

“I decided to see what it was all about,” said Murphy. Her biggest achievement was a particular month last year when she was picked up for Kate Sylvester’s Marr Factory show. That then lead to a New York lookbook shoot and then a last minute call to be in her fashion weekend show. “It was crazy exciting for a newbie Wellington girl!

It was my first real taste of the fashion industry,” she explained. Murphy is signed with 62 Models in Auckland and KBM in Wellington, but recently met with an overseas scout and hopes a trip to Europe could be in her cards.

RPD MODELS

24 I August 2016

KBM

KBM

KBM

t he models ASHLEIGH GOOD

SASKIA ANDERSON

JORDAN DANIELS

MARY MAGUET

Scouted at a bus stop at 19, Ashleigh Good has already got major names such as Prada, Vogue, D&G, Fendi, Tom Ford, Burberry, Dior, Givenchy and three Chanel campaigns under her belt. The local supermodel is signed with Ford NYC, Storm London, Why Not Milan, Elite Paris and her mother agency RPD Models in Auckland. In just four short years, Good has taken the world by storm modelling in LA, NYC, Dallas, Paris, Milan, London, Moscow, Argentina, Seoul, Tokyo, Rome, Cannes and the list goes on and on.

She has also worked with big local brands such as Kate Sylvester, Mi Piaci and Juliette Hogan. Good advises new faces to give it a go and who knows where you might end up. “Stay real and be yourself,” she added. Going into NZFW this year, Good is excited to see her younger brother walking for some shows and is keen to watch Resene Designer Runway Show. Her next goal is to land a beauty campaign for Dior.

Saskia Anderson used to watch America’s Next Top Model when she was younger and dreamed of being a model. “It seemed so glamorous and interesting to me, and I really wanted to be part of it,” explained Anderson. At the young age of 11, Anderson was scouted by 62 Models in Auckland. Five years later, Anderson says modelling is an extraordinary opportunity and has met so many interesting people.

When Anderson was younger, she admired Tyra Banks and now finds herself inspired by local Kiwi models making it big overseas. Over the past five years, Anderson has worked with a wide range of brands and labels such as Farmers, Once It, Moochi, RPM, Public Gallery, Magic Hollow, Sicky Magazine and so on. Anderson recently returned from a brief few weeks working in Sydney. Anderson’s advice for new faces or anyone seeking to join an agency is to be professional, dedicated and have a very flexible schedule.

Two years ago, Jordan Daniels was scouted by 62 Models but only just started modelling about a year ago. She has since become one of the rising stars in the industry with the new Miss Crabb and Kate Sylvester campaigns already under her belt. Daniels also has a number of other campaigns and lookbooks coming out soon including; Wynn Hamlyn, Jimmy D and Jared Godman.

Now signed with Chic in Australia, she quickly jumped across the ditch to model in Sydney and Melbourne.

She plans to move to Sydney for an increased time frame. One of the biggest challenges Daniels has faced so far was going to Sydney for her first job. “It was really scary and exciting to work for my first time independently overseas and one of my biggest achievements to this day,” explained Daniels. Her ultimate goal is to walk for Victoria’s Secret, but going in NZFW this year Daniels is looking forward to seeing Wynn Hamlyn, Kate Sylvester and Erik Yvon.

Mary Maguet is looking forward to seeing all of her friends again this year at NZFW as well as her favorite show by Trelise Cooper. “She always has the best setup which is beautiful and dreamy,” Maguet said. Appearing in countless magazines, campaigns and lookbooks, Maguet was scouted at church six years ago by her mother agency RPD Models.

She has since been added to the roster of Why Not Milan and Giant Melbourne.

Her favourite perk of being a model is “the bomb ass pictures”.

Maguet also loves how the New Zealand industry isn’t as stressful as overseas and the awesome people you work with here quickly become your friends and family. Maguet draws inspiration from a variety of people. Her next goal is to go on a ‘world tour’ for modelling or to land a Versace campaign.

Maguet advises new faces to not only be yourself, but learn patience. “It is one of the greatest qualities that will help throughout your career,” she said.

RPD MODELS

62 MODELS

62 MODELS

RPD MODELS

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 25

t he models SOPHIA FRANKISH

MEIKE VAN ROIJ

BRYAN ANDERSON

KIZZIE AMOORE

Sophia Frankish was spotted while shopping in Newmarket in 2013 by 62 Models and has been modelling ever since. Working with big names such as Italian Vogue.com, Oyster, 1am, iD, Nylon, Teeth, and M2 Woman, Frankish is spreading like wildfire around the industry. She has also featured in a number of local lookbooks including; Lonely Hearts, Huffer, Miss Crabb, Kate Sylvester and NOM*d. Surprisingly, Frankish is yet to be signed to an international agency.

After Frankish finishes high school, she plans to take a gap year and give modelling overseas a go. “I do recognise the advantages larger countries have, such as there being more opportunities and jobs for models, however as a consequence, there is more ‘competition’ and perhaps a less friendly/family feel to the industry due to the size,” said Frankish.

Since the age of 12, Meike van Roij has been advised to jump into modelling, but it only last year that she took it upon herself to apply online to Red11. She hopes to get the opportunity to travel overseas with modelling and experience different cultures.

“Being a model not only gives you the opportunity to meet interesting people but to broaden your perspective and gives you a platform to raise awareness for what you find important.”

Many people inspire van Roij such as Nelson Mandela, Oprah Winfrey and of course her parents. “It is the characteristic of being able to take a passion and drive it forward that inspires me,” she explained. She is excited for the Walk The Line show at NZFW which showcases up and coming young designers and is the largest Raise Up event of the year.

Scouted through Instagram by Red11, Bryan Anderson now dreams of working in New York. Anderson says photography has always inspired him and being on the other side of the lens brings on a whole new level of inspiration. This lead Anderson to launch his own label eight months ago called ‘You’re Welcome’. His biggest challenge so far is finding a balance between his music, his new label and being a model, but says for the most part he has had an easy run.

Growing up Michael Jackson was a huge inspiration on Anderson, but now looks to A$AP ROCKY and Ny Theo who bring music and fashion together.

Even though Anderson feels there are a lot more opportunities overseas, he believes that New Zealand’s fashion industry is a superb place to start.

Stolen Girlfriends Club and Huffer are Anderson’s highlights for NZFW this year.

Kizzie Amoore’s biggest inspiration growing up was her father. He was the one who encouraged her to be curious and passionate about New Zealand’s native environment, technology and science.

Amoore was scouted by 62Models when she was 13 and has since signed with Chic in Sydney and Wilhelmina in New York and London. However, Amoore dreams of being a food technologist. “I’m absolutely in love with the creativity, engineering, science and of course the food involved with the job. It would be so cool to be a modern-day Willy Wonka,” explained Amoore.

Heading into NZFW, Amoore is excited about twenty-seven names’ show.

“I really appreciated their casting choices and the theme behind their show. It was a perfect mix of thought-provoking and creative. I can’t wait to see what they do this year,” she said.

62 MODELS

RED11

BRUCE MOORE AGENCIES

55 Longhurst Terrace, Cashmere, Christchurch 8022 PO Box 12160 - Benkenham, Chrsitchurch 8242 email: bruce@bma.co.nz

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T: +64 3 332 8899 M: +64 274 341 433 Fax: +64 3 332 8143 www.bma.co.nz

26 I August 2016

RED11

62 MODELS

behind the business

SUCCESS UNDER

30 KAYLA JURLINA

Designer of COOP and Design Assistant of Trelise Cooper.

Kayla Jurlina grew up in West Auckland as the eldest of three and attended Massey High School.

In her last year, she was lucky enough to intern at Trelise Cooper, and this profoundly influenced her decision to study a Bachelor of Design and Fashion at AUT. Jurlina was keen to learn the technical skills required for patterning, garment construction and gain more knowledge of the history of fashion. “You can work your way up in the industry, but what they teach you at uni in the short amount of time is so valuable,” Jurlina explained.

When it comes to her family, she isn’t the only one who has a passion for fashion. “My grandmothers are fashionistas,” she said. Her mother’s mother, Lois May, was known as the “Barbie Doll” of Dunedin and had head-to-toe style.

However, her father’s mother, Zdenka or better known as Baba, was a self-taught seamstress who made clothes since she arrived in New Zealand in the 1970’s. Baba taught Jurlina how to sew and even gave her her first sewing machine. Jurlina’s mother, Shona, is also into fashion as a keen op-shopper and is very stylish.

As a child, she filled sketchbooks with drawings her whole life and was inspired by Baba’s seamstress work and her mother’s drawings. When she turned 13, her cousin Mala Brajkovic launched her own label, and Jurlina was invited to the opening. She was instantly mesmerised by the whole scene and overwhelmed with excitement.

From then she began to experiment more in high school with short courses in the holidays for makeup and hair, but Jurlina said nothing excited her as much as that opening night. Through the Gateway programme, she was allowed to do an internship with Trelise’s sister Dellwyn in a designer second and sample store out in Huapai.

This lead to the opportunity to do an on-going internship with Trelise Cooper which Jurlina carried out through her university years.

Jurlina said there are five essential skills involved in her position at Trelise Cooper. Multi-tasking, thinking on your feet, delegating, performing under pressure and having a great memory. “Trelise has a great memory so it is key to keep up with her,” she explained. “Each season or year I am learning and growing my skills for myself and my role as new challenges arise.”

There is no such thing as a typical day for Jurlina as she has a variety of things she could be doing at any given time. Whether it’s designing all day with Trelise, pulling new fabrics, fitting samples with their fit model and pattern maker or organising a photo shoot or runway show. Each day is different, and she believes that is what keeps it exciting.

Her biggest life lesson so far working at Trelise Cooper has been to trust her instincts, hard work really does pay off and that you can control your own destiny. Jurlina’s position has taught her to be brave, to make confident decisions on her own under pressure and has significantly improved her public speaking.

“It has also taught me how to delegate and lead a team, especially when Trelise is away travelling,” she said. Trelise Cooper’s bravery is something Jurlina admires, saying she sees it in everything Cooper touches.

The young 23-year-old attributes her success to good old honest hard work. “I believe I am sitting here today because I was not afraid to sweep the floors or say my opinion when needed or miss out on a cool party because I had work the next day,” Jurlina said. Dame Trelise Cooper played a huge role in Jurlina’s success for just giving her a chance. “I will forever be grateful.”

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We have graduate students available for : • Full time employment • Part time employment • Outwork • Work experience • Contracts

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Saturday August 27, 11.30am Viaduct Events Centre Live Entertainment S POTS PR IZ E

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Y1346

0508 327 872 apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 27

behind the business

KNOW WHAT YOU WANT WITH YOUR WEBSITE. If you are about to develop a new website or refresh an existing site, you need to be clear with the web developer what you want, when, how much it will cost and what will happen if things don’t go to plan.

Here are some things to think about.

Engage with your developer

Choose one you like, and then tell them what you want to achieve. Keeping your website fresh and engaging is essential, so you will need to work with developers on an increasingly regular basis.

Innovate simply

It is tempting to try to stand out by doing clever things with the website, but this can cost you later, as maintaining and refreshing a complicated site can be much more expensive than a simply structured site.

Focus your innovation efforts on site content and good user experience (UX) design, but make sure the actual workings of the site are done on a commonly supported framework using standard development tools. This will make support easier – either by you, or by any provider you may choose (whether the current developer or another).

Being able to update and refresh a site easily is important too. Google will know if your site isn’t seen as relevant and won’t rate it highly as part of its searching process. A simple site structure is generally easier and cheaper to update, and there will be a range of people who can help you do this – which means competitive pricing.

All devices welcome

carried out on a time and materials, rather than a fixed price, basis.

It needs active involvement from you, the client, to make sure that what you are building is what you want – keep a clear list of essential functionality – and also that the continual refinement process (which can be very exciting) doesn’t leave you with a site you can’t afford to build or maintain.

Make sure the site can be viewed on all types of devices by using responsive web design. A site that looks great on a desktop can look clunky (and work poorly) when viewed on a phone or tablet with limited screen real estate. Poor user experience can mean lost sales.

Work It

The contract matters

Make sure that your site works for you. Obviously the basic functions incorporated in the site have to work, including proper linking from social media and email campaigns. The site should also be search engine friendly and give you the ability to analyse the traffic on your site.

Read the contract, understand what it says. In many ways the issues being addressed shouldn’t be any different to the ones in your own contracts with customers. Make sure the terms are clear commitments.

If you don’t understand the terms ask the developer – if you aren’t happy with the answers and don’t feel that you can ask more questions then do you have the right developer for you? This is someone that you may have a longer term relationship with so you need to be able to work comfortably with them.

Agile?

Is it an agile development? Agile is hot right now, and for good reason – but it’s a double edged sword.

Rather than setting in stone at the beginning of a project what the end result will be (this is the traditional ‘waterfall’ approach), with ‘agile’ you agree a general outline of what’s required and then agree to the functionality you wish to incorporate in a prioritised features list (or “product backlog” in agilespeak) as development progresses.

This enables flexibility in the project and allows issues/ ideas / learnings to be accommodated. It avoids you ending up with a site that people knew part way through wasn’t what you actually wanted.

But agile can, unless managed, result in a more costly project especially because they are commonly

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behind the business

FRENCH83 At only three years old, men’s tailoring brand French83 has already established itself as a strong presence in the menswear market, having already established an international customer-base with a following in Asia.

The brand began with Peter Cheng, an entrepreneur who identified a gap in the market for affordable and high-quality made-to-measure suits in New Zealand.

The label has now put out five collections and appeared at two New Zealand Fashion Weeks, most recently showing its Spring Summer 17 collection, Oliver White, conceptualised by designer Nicole Wesseling.

Inspiration for the collection was drawn from an urban city environment with the name being that of a fictional character who is described as a successful businessman working in Auckland City, living in the suburbs and enjoying nature in his spare moments.

“It’s impossible to go a day in Auckland without experiencing both the bustling streets and the pockets of nature scattered throughout the city,” said Wesseling.

The concept is centred on the idea that a French83 customer could end up in the same situation as Oliver White, who is the epitome of a successful entrepreneur.

The goal is to be equipped with the right clothes that can take the customer from living in Auckland right through to travelling across Europe.

“The story behind FRENCH83 is paramount to the brand. As the story grows season to season, the brand develops a stronger sense of character and connection to the FRENCH83 gentleman.”

Keeping in mind the need to cater for diverse lifestyles in different markets, the collection is constructed in a way that the customer can style it however they need depending on the situation. For the Asian market, French83 customers are constantly on the go, going home only really to sleep, whereas in New Zealand, customers are looking for a more relaxed feel to their purchases that can be dressed up or down.

The simplistic design of the Philip Coat plays to those strengths, for example, the long length trench coat with a geometric buttoned front which is ideal for layering.

“The angled front can be either buttoned like a

ACCESSORY ALERT

double breasted coat or tucked underneath to create a single breasted front. This wasn’t an intentional function for the coat, but it’s amazing what can happen with a bit of styling and experimentation.”

As a whole, the collection walks the line between immaculate tailoring and fluid silhouettes to achieve a smart but comfortable wear while bringing in floral and foliage style prints set against a backdrop of monochromatic tones. This is enhanced by the concrete textures mixed with earthy qualities.

Specialising in made-to-measure suits, the team is used to fast turnovers, which can often see a suit put together in just six weeks from the initial consultation.

This rapid construction is translated to the readyto-wear collections, which often are produced simultaneously with Wesseling designing one collection while overseeing production for another and selling current stock on the shop floor. The result is a twice yearly drop for Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter, with the Beijing store getting the collections shortly after New Zealand.

“It’s a massive juggle but as a young brand we’re learning when best to drop for each season and how to manage our own retail stores and international wholesale stockists.”

The collection is produced in China, where Wesseling said all the best machinery and experienced

Professional photographer Allan Shoemake was having problems with lighting when skyping his daughter who was studying overseas. He made the first prototype with Christmas lights around his laptop. Over the past few years Shoemake made several tweaks to his design and the first case was officially launched in 2014. Since then their year-overyear sales have increased over 7000 percent. Before LuMee, Shoemake worked as a photographer for 30 years taking photos for annual reports and advertising campaigns. He also worked in portraiture, capturing world icons such as former US President Bill Clinton and baseball legend Joe Torre.

LuMee is the first company to make patented and illuminated cell phone case with a strong reputation for it’s quality. The LuMee case is available in a various of sizes and brands including; iPhone 5/5S/5SE, 6, 6 Plus, 6S, 6S Plus and Samsung Galaxy S6. Each product comes in rose, gold, silver, rose gold, black,

tailors are, while suiting textiles are sourced from Italian and UK mill, including the shirting fabrics and cotton prints. Casual pieces usually have their fabric sourced from local Chinese mills, easing the process through to production. And with most tailors, wool is the most important textile used throughout both seasonal collections.

Returning for its second year, the brand presented its collection at the 2016 New Zealand Fashion Week with a larger showcase than the previous year to demonstrate the diversity of what French83 offers its customers.

white, mint, hot pink and navy. The case itself will not only light you perfectly with their studio quality lighting, but it also will protect your phone from impact with it’s hard durable plastic.

The LuMee case has a life span of up to two hours on full power, but will last 36 hours at the lowest brightness. It also features a dimmer that can be activated by simply holding down the on/off button on the back of the case.

After Kim Kardashian discovered LuMee, she quickly partnered with the brand in 2016 sharing with her millions of followers on social media how to get the perfect selfie. Kardashian even designed two marble-look cases for the brand earlier this month.

However, she isn’t the only one to discover LuMee and with the help of Teen Vogue, The Today Show, Cosmopolitan and Oprah it’s cult following grows.

For more information visit www.lumee.com.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 29

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ACCESSORIES RACK-HIRE TERRITORY: Auckland and Greater NewCity Zealand Sales & Demonstrations industry SERVICE AVAILABLE Auckland, FREEPHONE• High attention to Northland, Waikato, B.O.P.

for sale

• Full service – sm 0508 243 629

Improve your Workflow

For more information contact: tracy@pelage.co.nz or 021 462658.

PAD System is the complete

Merine Le Sueur

design suite that satisfies the technical requirements of all Pattern and Marker Design StudioMakers, from made to measure designers to mass production, while reducing • Fashion design cost & improving productivity.

• Pattern makingvisit For more information • Grading, Production www.padsystem.com or call:

• Garment tech 6697 NZ: +64 3 312 • Alterations and6801 +64 9 299 • Haute AU: +61 Couture 2 8307 3821 Shop 10, 12/18 Inverness Rd, On Glen Court, Browns Bay, Auckland 0630 Ph: 021 708 677 or email: merinelesueur@gmail.com

Simplicity is best.....

VISIT

OUR Sales WEBSITE Mannequin & Hire Incredibly Durable Designed in New Zealand

30 APPAREL NOVEMBER 2010

30 I August 2016

100% Recyclable 30 app arel

MAY 2009

• Quick turnaround

CONTACT: Pieter Olivier, • Specialists in wov pieter@reviewmags.co.nz Office, Factory and Showroom: 6A Henderson Place, Onehunga, Auckland 341 433, email: or www.propress.co.nz PhMob: 08000274 38 0800 Fax 09 636 bruce@bma.co.nz 9379 www.displays.co.nz CONTA

GUY THORNTON

3 fabric racks for sale, 2.8m long and on caster wheels.

100% NZ made woollen yarn by the kg and knitted felt trims.

START DATE: August 2010

GARMENT TECHNOLOGY

Providing technical support to the clothing industry for the past 33 years

◆ Computerised Markers (Pad System) Sales & Hire ◆ Gerber & Lectra compatible ◆ Pattern Making 100% Recyclable ◆ Pattern Grading ◆ Sampling Incredibly Durable ◆ Cutting ◆ Production Runs

Wanted Stock

For new clothing outlet Designed in New Zealand in Christchurch PH: 09 441 3187, FAx: 09 441 3190 EMAiL: guy@patternmaksamples end of ers.co.nz or liz@patternmakers. w w wco.nz . p uwww.patternmakers.co.nz r f o r m . n e t lines | p h 0 etc 9 579 5566 email robyn or andrea adjj@xtra.co.nz phone 03 3431681

Now To diSCu

PH 0

EMAiL: david

Emerging desig ow

We can provide friendly 0508 AGENCY service for all y 0508 243629

arnet Garment www.bma.co.nz

Call Kevin on 579 8002 em

classifieds The Tailors Collection

Made in New Zealand for New Zealand Sizes

Complete Samp Pat (compute Computerised Digitisin (Card or Computerised Ma (Compatible with Pad, Gerber Accum Sample cutting with Fabr Sam Prod Produc

Complete Sampling Service Patternmaking (computerised & manual) Computerised Digitising & Grading (Card or paper patterns) Computerised Marker Making (Compatible with Pad, Gerber Accumark and Lectra) Sample cutting with Fabric Estimates Sample Making Production Runs Production Cutting

Call the team at Ph: (09) 369 9249 or email helenh@hsr.co.nz 21D PORANA RD, WAIRAU VALLEY

Ph: 09 828 5206

www.purfex.com

C Ph: (09) 369 9249 or email he 21D PORANA RD, W

Complete Sampling Service Patternmaking (computerised & manual) Computerised Digitising & Grading Experts in design and production preparation for NZ and Off (Card or paper patterns) Shore Manufacturing Computerised Marker Making (Compatible with Pad, Gerber Accumark and Lectra) Professional Pattern Making, Grading and Marker Making Sample cutting with Fabric Estimates Sample Making (card or CAD) Production Runs Production Cutting

Our skills and unique service will help make your Designs a reality www.patternpotentials.co.nz phone: 07 889 3876

email: sue@patternpotentials.co.nz

Call the team at Ph: (09) 369 9249 or email helenh@hsr.co.nz 21D PORANA RD, WAIRAU VALLEY

afp

AUCKLAND FABRIC PRINTERS

Auckland fabric printers specialize in screen printing fabric on the roll for merino wool, linen, cotton, lycra, nylon, blends, knitted and woven fabric. apparel - fashion - soft furnishings - interior design - home ware

MORE THAN JUST BIAS BINDING www.generalproducts.co.nz Contact PHILIP TANNER philip@generalproducts.co.nz or 09 3735762

TERRY APPAREL LIMITED

09-274 4100

sales@afprinters.co.nz

“JOINING YOUR PRODUCT”

With our compliments

With our threads and needles V

ENUS

IN

Call 0800TERRYS to place your order

OS

E

G

C N TH O R E S P U PU I RE A D M U LT

RP

SEW

CALL 0800TERRYS TO PLACE YOUR NEXT THREAD AND NEEDLE ORDER.

aucklandfabricprinters.co.nz

BOOK NOW

CONTACT SARAH 09 304 0142 EXT 702 OR SARAH@ REVIEWMAGS.COM apparelmagazine.co.nz

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