Apparel Magazine // August 2017

$ 9.00

AUGUST 2017 I VOL 50 I NO 8

New Zealand Fashion Week Designer Showcase pg 8

Literally Me

THE SECRET TO DEALING WITH AN UNHAPPY CUSTOMER If you’re reading this, you’ve probably had an unhappy customer, and that’s understandable – shit happens. Ninety-two percent of consumers’ trust recommendations from friends and family when deciding to buy. This makes good reviews a crucial part of business, but unfortunately sometimes it hits the fan, and it happens to the best of us.

However, no matter whose fault it is, happy customers are essential for building a successful business, and it is in your best interest to resolve the conflict efficiently. The most common customer service complaints include; misrepresentation, unsatisfactory work, billing disputes, and staff behaviour.

Here are five easy steps on how to turn that frown upside down: 1. ACTIVE LISTENING On average, businesses will only hear from four percent of dissatisfied customers. When you first encounter your unhappy customer, listen carefully to their feedback and stay calm. Make sure you don’t take the criticism personally – this isn’t the time to get defensive. If you are resolving the issue face-to-face, remember your body language.

Keep your arms open and use affirming body language like nodding to show you are listening.

Extra points if you have a pen and paper in front of you to write down specific points about what they did and didn’t like. When it’s your turn to speak, summarise what the customer has just told you and ask further questions to clarify. Repeating what they said shows you were actively listening and respect what they’re saying.

2. FACE-TO-FACE VS KEY BOARD WARRIOR Choose your format of communication wisely.

Things tend to escalate when you’re in each other’s

CHAIRMAN PUBLISHER GENERAL MANAGER EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR STAFF WRITER

ADVERTISING SALES PHOTOGRAPHER

2 I August 2017

Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Mark Fullerton - mark@reviewmags.com Courtney Macris - courtney@reviewmags.com Ankita Singh - ankita@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com

DM’s on Instagram with no body language or vocal cues to go off. Type a formal email or make an effort to set up a face-to-face meeting. Video calls (using FaceTime, Skype, Google Hangouts or even Facebook Messenger) are also a good solution.

You’d be surprised how much is resolved when they hear concern in your voice or face.

3. THE RESOLUTION When presenting a resolution, suggest a few options and make sure the customer feels like they have a choice. If you don’t have any ideas – ask the customer what suggestions they have which will resolve the problem as far as they see it. Make sure their response is realistic and do say so if it’s not a realistic option. It has to be fair to both parties. Part of the resolution can be a discount on their next purchase. Add-ons help rebuild trust and customer relationships.

BEWARE of the rare situation where a customer is looking for an argument for a freebie. Know before you do business what you will tolerate and what you won’t. Be fair, but firm.

4. THE FOLLOW UP After your meeting, video call or phone call; follow up with an email that reiterates the issue and the resolution you reached. This ensures you both have a record of the conversation that was mutually agreed.

5. LEARN What did you learn from this experience? What can you do differently next time to make sure this situation doesn’t arise again?

In the end, don’t make excuses. Don’t get defensive.

Stay calm and do your best to ensure your customer base grows and the quality of your offering continues to improve.

caitlan@reviewmags.com

SENIOR DESIGNER

Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com

ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2017 NZ Apparel Magazine.

By Julie Houts Julie Houts has been called “Instagram’s Favourite Illustrator”

by Vogue.com, and it’s probably true. Houts’ Instagram account has 203k followers, and her sarcastic comics satirizing fashion-girls and influencers have a loyal cult following. Based on Houts’ fashion industry experience, thanks to her years working as a designer at J Crew, the comics show a bevy of hilarious fashion situations mocking the industry fads. In a new book, a collection of illustrated essays about the modern female experience will be printed among Houts’ signature comics. Titled ‘Literally Me’ as a reference to the plethora of Instagram comments from users who identify with her drawings and humour, Houts’ publishing debut promises to be an unmissable (and hysterical) fashion book and coffee table essential.

SUAVE IN EVERY SITUATION: A Rakish Style Guide For Men

By Gonzague Dupleix and Jean-Philippe Delhomme Gonzague Dupleix and Jean-Philippe Delhomme are style experts in the area of men’s fashion, and passing on their knowledge via an entertaining new book.

Suave In Every Situation: A Rakish Style Guide For Men is a go-to book which answers important sartorial questions men may have been wondering such as ‘are military jackets a reliable ally?’ The book is not trend-based, but offers timeless advice for the man who wants his style to span the ages. With a focus on not just fashion, but how to navigate life as a suave gentleman, amongst the sage words of wisdom men should not try to ride Razor scooters, instead invest in a stylish bicycle.

Claudia Schiffer

By Claudia Schiffer As one of the most recognisable faces in fashion, Claudia Schiffer has had a stellar career which cemented her as one of the original supermodels.

In this glossy new book, Schiffer shares her favourite career moments and fashion memories, alongside stunning photos by Patrick Demarchelier, Arthur Elgort, Richard Avedon and many more. With a career spanning thirty years, and magazine cover shoots for legendary publications such as Rolling Stone, Vogue, Time and Harper’s Bazaar, Schiffer’s book will showcase a bygone era of modelling now eclipsed by the rise of the Insta-model.

NEW ZEALAND FASHION WEEK 2017 SCHEDULE

9:30

MONDAY 28 AUGUST

TUESDAY 29 AUGUST

10:00

WEDNESDAY 30 AUGUST

THURSDAY 31 AUGUST

JIMMY D OFFSITE, 10:00AM

10:30 11:00

RACHEL MILLS THE TENT, 11:00AM

11:30 12:00 12:30

ADRIENNE WHITEWOOD THE TENT, 11:00AM

WONDERFUL WOOL THE TENT, 11:00AM

COMPANY OF STRANGERS

GRADUATE SHOW

JASON LINGARD

FLOORING FOUNDATION RUNWAY, 12:00PM

FLOORING FOUNDATION RUNWAY, 12:00PM

FLOORING FOUNDATION RUNWAY, 12:00PM

OVNA OVICH THE TENT, 1:00PM

TO BE ANNOUNCED

NZ WEDDINGS MAGAZINE

NZ POST MIROMODA SHOWCASE

FLOORING FOUNDATION RUNWAY, 2:00PM

FLOORING FOUNDATION RUNWAY, 2:00PM

K’ROAD PRESENTS THE TENT, 3:00PM

FRENCH83 THE TENT, 3:00PM

1:00 1:30 2:00 2:30 3:00

EARLY REGISTRATION 1:00-4:00PM

3:30 4:30

ANDREA MOORE FLOORING FOUNDATION RUNWAY, 4:30PM

5:00 5:30 6:00 6:30 OPENING EVENT (INVITATION ONLY)

7:30 8:00 8:30 9:00 9:30

NEW GENERATION FLOORING FOUNDATION RUNWAY, 2:30PM MITCHELL VINCENT THE TENT, 3:30PM

4:00

7:00

KATHERINE VICTORIA THE TENT, 1:30PM

MERCEDES-BENZ PRESENTS

ZAMBESI THE FLOORING FOUNDATION RUNWAY 8:30PM

HAILWOOD FLOORING FOUNDATION RUNWAY, 6:00PM

KATHRYN WILSON FLOORING FOUNDATION RUNWAY, 4:00PM

YU MEI THE TENT, 5:00PM

SALASAI OFFSITE, 9:00PM

TO BE ANNOUNCED

WYNN HAMLYN FLOORING FOUNDATION RUNWAY, 6:00PM

KATE SYLVESTER

LELA JACOBS OFFSITE, 7:00PM FEDERATION FLOORING FOUNDATION RUNWAY, 8:00PM

ACCESSORY SHOWCASE FLOORING FOUNDATION RUNWAY, 4:30PM

TANYA CARLSON OFFSITE, 7:30PM

FLOORING FOUNDATION RUNWAY, 7:00PM

STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB OFFISTE, 9:00PM

nzfashionweek.com nzfashionweek @nzfashionwk

HUFFER OFFSITE, 8:30PM

STUDENTS RELISH THAI EXPERIENCE

A contingent of Wintec fashion design students have returned from a tour of Bangkok in Thailand where they got up close and personal with the country’s bustling fashion industry. Nine students and two Wintec tutors spend ten days learning about the traditional design and manufacturing techniques used in Bangkok.

Hosted by Rajamangala University of Technology Krungthep, the students witnessed silk weaving, dyeing processes, visited large-scale factories, and a went to a fashion technology expo.

“Seeing textile manufacturing first hand was a real highlight.

From raw cotton, through to weaving and knitting of the final textile and then on to the manufacturing process – we just don’t get to see that in New Zealand. It was a wonderful opportunity for both the staff and students,” said Wintec tutor Sally Fitzpatrick. One of the students, Brydie Senior, added that they enjoyed learning more about Thai culture and seeing the traditional Thai methods of design. “In New Zealand everything is on a smaller scale,” said Senior. “The factories over there were gigantic and seeing these really made me appreciate how much people power goes into everything.”

PAYROLL FOR SMALL BUSINESSES

Monitoring the performance of employees, recruiting new staff and ensuring all practices are compliant can be a lot for businesses to manage alone. With over 28 years industry experience, P & T Solutions’ outsourced HR and Payroll solution takes away this stress and gives employers the knowledge and transparency of what exactly is happening with their staff at all times. With time and attendance for example, employees can input their hours hassle-free via touch timesheets.

Requiring no follow-up or extra work, businesses can be confident in the solution’s capabilities that include GPS tracking and even a chatbot through which employees can book leave, change meetings and request information straight to the HCM/Payroll System. Easy to use, the system works on a single technology platform and can be implemented within four months, regardless of business size. P & T Solutions have a highly qualified, experienced and responsive team of domestic and international HCM and Payroll specialists that are always happy to assist.

Their trusted services are used across the hospitality, logistics, aviation, retail and local and state government sectors in over 35 Countries throughout the Asia Pacific, with satisfied clients including the likes of Emirates Airways, Coke Asia and Mantra Asia. For more information please visit www.pntsolutions.com.au or contact admin@pntsolutions.com.au / +61 408666086.

4 I August 2017

TESTEX EXPANDS INTO NEW ZEALAND

TESTEX AG, Swiss Textile Testing Institute has expanded into New Zealand and is excited to announce the opening of a new branch office in Ruakaka. TESTEX is an independent Swiss testing and Certification Corporation that focuses on textile and leather testing. Headquartered in Zurich, TESTEX operates in more than 20 branches worldwide. TESTEX AG was developed from the “Seidentrocknungsanstalt Zurich” founded in 1846 and is the official representative of the OEKO-TEX® Association in Australia, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Canada, Malaysia, New Zealand, the Philippines, Switzerland, South Korea, Taiwan, Shanghai & Beijing.

TESTEX’s chief marketing officer Marc Sidler explained that up until now all of their New Zealand customers have been assisted by their Melbourne office. “The Leather Standard by OEKO-TEX® was introduced in January of this year and the export value of wool from New Zealand has reached roughly 600 Mio USD,” Sidler added. “These facts convinced us that now is the perfect time for us to cement our presence in New Zealand.” With this development, TESTEX has responded to the increase in demand from the New Zealand textile industry for OEKO-TEX® products including Standard 100, Leather Standard, and Step by OEKO-TEX®. “We are happy to deliver our premium services in another country with great economic potential and a strong textile industry.”

To find out more email auckland@testex.com or call +6494328450.

Have you got what your customers want?

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of Kiwis use contactless payment

75%

find it convenient

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say it is time saving

Maximise your business with contactless payments.

Keep up with tomorrow switch on today.

Visit www.switchonNZ.co.nz to find out more. apparelmagazine.co.nz

I5

BENEFITS OF CONTACTLESS

“More than just pattern making, construction, sewing skills, Wintec acknowledges the reality of creating a fashion business.”

– Mitchell Vincent In 2013 Mitchell made his debut onto the fashion scene at New Zealand Fashion Week with his first collection that gained him the title of ‘Emerging Designer’.

This year Mitchell Vincent Collection will be returning to the runways of NZFW for the fifth consecutive year and first solo show. create your world wintec.ac.nz/fashion

6 I August 2017

A new campaign encourages retailers to ‘Switch On’ to the benefits of contactless payments. Switch On profiles Kiwi businesses talking about how contactless technology is making a real difference to their businesses. Kiwi consumers are already switched on to the benefits of contactless technology, with a recent Mastercard survey of over 1000 New Zealanders finding almost three quarters of Kiwis are using contactless. The survey found more than half of Kiwis use contactless technology at least once a week, up 12 percent on last year, as the technology becomes increasingly part of everyday use.

While consumers are using the technology, 38 percent of New Zealanders think retailers need to do more to embrace new payment innovations. A third of respondents said they get frustrated when retailers do not have contactless technology enabled. “Contactless payments mean that, on average, every transaction at Z is now seven seconds faster,” said Tim Dryburgh, asset manager. “At peak times, when you’re under pressure and there are queues forming, that’s a significant amount of time saved across the huge number of customers that shop with us. Contactless is ideal for businesses that have a short window of time to make transactions or those who have a large number of transactions, like Z.” Shane Howell, chief product officer at Westpac, agrees. “The benefits of contactless for retailers will only continue to increase as more consumers embrace the technology. Each day more and more New Zealand businesses are contacting their bank to switch on contactless, so they can provide the options their customers want to ensure their ongoing business success in a more digital society.” Retailers are encouraged to find out how contactless technology can help their business, and challenge some common misconceptions around contactless acceptance at www.switchonnz.co.nz.

PURE CASHMERE SCARVES

BY MONTI CASTELLO

Perfectly timed for the late winter chill, comes the latest addition to the Monti Castello accessory collection. Cashmere, whilst breathable can insulate up to three times more than regular sheep’s wool, however the greatest feature is the unsurpassed softness that communicates luxury on touch. Favoured by those who travel, these work beyond our local winter season, making them an ideal gift offering for customers who appreciate and seek out the finest. The magic formula for Monti Castello is offering ‘perennial classics’. There are 6 colours available with no minimum order and immediate delivery.

Wholesale Enquiries Contact Parisian on: 09 303 4129 or orders@parisian.co.nz

TOP-QUALIT Y TESTING, ANALYSIS AND CERTIFICATION – WORLDWIDE WITH SWISS RELIABILIT Y, SINCE 1846.

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Find more information at www.testex.com | auckland@testex.com

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I7

FEDERATION

Now in its 17TH year, Federation started with Jenny Joblin who won an international award at 11years old. First taught by her late mother, Dundas started working at Karen Walker during her fashion degree.

Soon after she worked for Helen and Chris Cherry as a design assistant and then started her own label – Federation. Today, Federation consists of a tight knit group of eight staff members. “We all have our roles, but help each other out and focus on our product and making the company the best it can be,” said Ben Dundas, co-designer and husband of Jenny. “We have two designers, Jenny and myself, we work so closely together to make sure the ranges, fabrics print stories flow cohesively between the ranges with our graphic designer.” Federation is stocked in over 80 stores scattered around New Zealand and a handful

overseas. The flagship store can be found in Takapuna, Auckland which is attached to the workroom.

The collection showing at New Zealand Fashion Week this year features a strong story of colours and textures through both the mens and the womens ranges. A highlight of the show is an exciting print story that will be available straight after the show as a new addition. This will be Federation’s second year back at NZFW after a long hiatus, the brand first showcased at NZFW in 2002.

“We’ve had good reviews about our show last year so we are trying to push it to the next level. It’s a great tool to show to a diverse audience our collection and this year there are some great international buyers and media that will be here to check out some New Zealand collections,” added Ben Dundas. “Hopefully, they like what they see and encourage some more export for the New Zealand fashion industry.”

LIZ MITCHELL

HUFFER

Celebrating their 20th anniversary, Huffer is showcasing their AW18 collection and parts of their functional collections Down and Stay Dry at NZFW. “AW 18 takes a leap into the known unknown where tomorrow’s choices are yesterday’s reality. Bold red and dark navy, with contrast cream and khaki and pink to pop transcend seasonal into functional too. Huffer’s strength is to combine fashion and functionality and this collection is a great example of that work,” said managing director Kate Berry. The Down collection delivers a functional garment with incredible warmth and a street appeal that is synonymous with Huffer.

Huffer has only missed one show in the last 15 years of New Zealand Fashion Week. “We had an amazing 10th anniversary show at Fashion week and this year will be our 20th anniversary so a lot to celebrate,” added Berry.

With six stores across New Zealand and two in Sydney, Huffer has two more locations on the way launching in the next few months. With over 75 staff members from retail to production to design, the heart of their business however is wholesale.

They extend their reach with wholesale with each individual retailer who represents Huffer. “We have around 100 wholesale doors in New Zealand and currently 60 in Australia.”

There is a big collaborative design process and an eduring brand signature led by the brand’s founder and brand director, Steve Dunstan. He provides immense creativity to the design process and an innate brand understanding that drives the Huffer consumers know and love today.

Huffer originally started with two friends who were skate and snow boarders. The duo wanted

8 I August 2017

garments that helped express what they did, but also had the functionality to keep up with the lifestyle they were leading. The market at that time was starved and Huffer gave them and their friends an identity to belong and from there the brand’s strength as an inclusive brand with a community spirit began.

“Fashion week this year is the chance for us to celebrate 20 years with the community that built us, to say thank you and to say ‘hey it’s been a great ride and this is what we can deliver for you in the future.’ We have done 20 and we’ve got 20 more in us!”

Liz Mitchell is a New Zealand Fashion Week veteran, with seven Fashion Weeks under her belt. Despite her vast experience, 2017 promises to be her most exciting collection yet featuring Harris Tweed, and a surprise still to be announced. Mitchell is a passionate ambassador for The Campaign For Wool, and this collection will showcase the texture and colour of wool. The mood is inspired by the 1970s, with a hand-crafted, nostalgic feel. Mitchell thinks NZFW is a great platform to show woollen garments, “it’s the perfect place to raise awareness for the beauty of wool and its unique properties,” says Mitchell.

Mitchell’s training began at Elam, where she studied Fine Arts. Going from art to design was a natural step, and Mitchell’s first fashion job was as the costume designer at the Mercury Theatre. Ascending quickly within the costume design arena, Mitchell moved to TVNZ, and worked on the acclaimed series Gloss and Marlin Bay. Inspired by her love of fashion and design, and with a yearning to work more closely to the heart of the fashion industry, Mitchell began her own eponymous fashion label in 1994. The label is still going from strength to strength, as a leading bespoke couturier. In the intervening years, Mitchell has been awarded the New Zealand Order of Merit for services to the New Zealand Fashion Industry.

Mitchell is the sole designer of Liz Mitchell, and works with a small team of skilled technicians, who assist with bespoke and couture pattern making, garment sampling and hand finishing. For hand knits, weaving and crochet, Mitchell has a group of talented artisans under her wing, who craft many of her woollen pieces. The business is primarily bespoke tailoring and couture, based in their atelier and showroom in Auckland. While Liz Mitchell is not wholesaling currently, there are seasonal trunk shows in Wellington, and other cities by appointment.

DOOR-TO-DOOR DROP OFF Established in 1960, ALERT TAXIS have succeeded in building a company that is young, fresh and full of vision. Positioned as the ‘leader of the pack’ in the industry, Alert Taxis impresses both customers and drivers with its state of the art technology and passionate leadership.

As New Zealand Fashion Week’s longest standing partner, ALERT TAXIS has worked seamlessly alongside NZFW for 12 years.

In all these events, there’s one key point, which is their main goal and that is to take the transport problem away.

As the only vehicles with the necessary clearance to drive up and drop off at the entrance of the ANZ Viaduct Events Centre, be sure to add

them to your speed dial to ensure you stay fashionably dry whatever the weather. Better yet, the fixed fare booking option online offers a prepaid fixed cost for your journey regardless of traffic conditions. This option is also ideal as a ‘meet and greet’ at the airport.

Are your models being moved around efficiently? ALERT TAXIS can move 30-40 models at once from one end of Auckland to the other.

Call (09) 309-0109 to find out how ALERT TAXIS can be of assistance or to book a prepaid fixed fare, visit www.book.alerttaxis.co.nz/m/booking.php

EFFICIENT. SWIFT. COORDINATED.

309 2000 www.alerttaxis.co.nz

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I9

HELEN KAMINSKI

In 1983, Helen Kaminski handcrafted a raffia hat to protect her child from the searing Australian sun. One year later, a Vogue editor discovered her first design, the Classic 5, and the rest is history. Thirty years later, Kaminski’s modest collection of hats has evolved into a global luxury accessories brand recognised for innovation, authenticity and style. With a commitment to sustainable practices and a focus on conserving traditional handcraft techniques, each Helen Kaminski piece retains a unique authenticity with its effortless signature style being translated globally.

With offices in Sydney, New York City and Tokyo, Helen Kaminski has an international team of over 30 members. This year Helen Kaminski will feature in New Zealand Fashion Week for the first time. Collaborating with local designer Wynn Hamlyn, a highlight will be Helen Kaminski’s couture head piece. Both brands have a restrained, effortless elegance and the brand is excited to bring the its artisanal craft to Wynn Hamlyn’s playful, tailored approach to textiles and design. “Our master craftsman, Garry Bishop, handmade each piece in our Sydney office exclusively for the Wynn Hamlyn parade at NZFW – we can’t wait to see them on the runway,” said Prue-ellen Thomas, Helen Kaminski’s Global Marketing Manager. Stocked in some of the most prestigious department stores and boutiques across the globe already, Helen Kamins ki has a strong presence in Australia, USA, Korea and Japan. In New Zealand, they can be found in Smith & Caughey’s and a few select boutiques. “We’re hoping to meet new clients that share the same vision as us – an appreciation for artisanal craftsmanship and sustainable practices, fused with contemporary design and effortless style,” Thomas explained. “And expand our small but loyal New Zealand following with a few selected partners.”

MARFIYA TATLIK

Designer Marfiya Tatlik said owning an MT bag is the ultimate symbol of elegance and quality. “MT brand bags is made purely out of love. The love of life and the love of people,” she said. As a contemporary classic, the MT handbag is for the modern woman who seeks superb quality and subtle elegance. Each piece is crafted from top-quality genuine leather. They exhibit superb craftsmanship and dynamic details. “This makes our handbags timeless, head-turning fashion accessories that are also classic investment pieces.” The product design team has an on and off team of five who have spent more than ten years of hard work on the brand. MT can be found in Wellington, online, and in many stores overseas. For New Zealand Fashion Week, Tatlik brought in one of the newest designs targeted for international high-end customers.

The responses from are overwhelming and way beyond Tatlik’s expectations.

“People truly love the style and marvellous design.” As her first time showing at New Zealand Fashion Week, Tatlik is looking forward to testing the water and feeling the atmosphere. “We want to make sure that it matches our design and our product theme.”

Bespoke, Timeless & Sustainable

RUBY SMALL HOLDINGS LTD. 196 Great North Rd, Grey Lynn, Auckland 1021

www.lizmitchell.co.nz

SPRING SUMMER 2018

info@lizmitchell.co.nz +64 9 360 5047

29-31 Aug 17 | NZFW Trade Space | helenkaminski.com.au

10 I August 2017

WYNN HAMLYN

Wynn Hamlyn Crawshaw’s first collection was a five-look knitwear collection that debuted in Winter 2015. At the time, Crawshaw was working full-time but had a small studio in Epsom that he went to after work. Wanting to separate himself from his sartorial creations, and create a fashion alter-ego, Crawshaw started out his eponymous label with only his first and middle names, leaving off his surname. In the intervening years, Crawshaw’s team has grown by two - a production manager and a pattern maker, with Crawshaw squarely at the helm. The label has also garnered a significant amount of media exposure and been seen across many a magazine spread as well as on several influencers. Wynn Hamlyn is currently stocked in just under 20 stores across Australia and New Zealand, as well as on the Wynn Hamlyn e-commerce site.

Wynn Hamlyn’s collection showing at New Zealand Fashion Week will be an unmissable show, inspired by the fashion industry itself - specifically the disfunction of fashion seasons.

“The collection looks at a dystopic world in the future where there are no seasons due to climate change. There is every season all the time, both extremes. The result aesthetically will be looks comprised of quintessentially summer objects and textures as well winter ones,” said Crawshaw, who finds it bizarre to deliver winter collections in the peak of summer and vice versa. Without giving away too much, Crawshaw hinted that the collection will use raffia, a traditional summer texture, alongside puffer jackets and woollen knits, which will blend in winter influences. Wynn Hamlyn has been shown at three previous Fashion Weeks, and Crawshaw enjoys showing media and buyers what Wynn Hamlyn is all about. The international exposure is also a highlight.

Crawshaw also has a few exciting collaborations planned for NZFW, but he is keeping everything top secret so that the show will be a complete surprise.

NICHOLA TE KIRI Nichola Te Kiri first started her business in 2012 under the name NTK Made and later rebranded to Nichola in 2016. “I felt it was more memorable and significant to my work as it’s the name I was gifted by my dad,” explained Te Kiri. With a team of six, Te Kiri is the head designer and beside her is her high school friend, Tracey Whitiora, her second in command. “We have great synergy when it comes to fleshing out ideas and designs, she is my right hand woman and I wouldn’t have come this far without her.”

The collection Te Kiri is showing at New Zealand Fashion Week is based on Matariki (the constellation). “The nine stars of Matariki are based on research by Dr Rangi Matamua.

Each outfit is based on the different stars and their kaupapa,” she added. The whole collection has nine looks, but Te Kiri is only showing six at NZFW which are the six female stars. “For example, Matariki, which is my signature outfit, is the mother of the constellation. Her look represents someone of a grand importance, the cape she wears is symbolic of a korowai, she wears a headpiece I have named ‘Makawear’ to represent her healing status and her dress has the symbols of her children printed on it to emphasis her connection to her children.” A highlight of the collection is being able to translate the kōrero of Matariki into clothing that can be worn. Te Kiri is very chuffed with herself for

being part of the Miromoda show at New Zealand Fashion Week. “I am so thankful to Miromoda and Ata for this opportunity, but most of all extremely grateful to Dame Pieter Stewart for her ongoing support around this kaupapa.”

“Nichola” can be found online at www.nichola.co.nz. She also has product in Kura Gallery situated in Auckland and Wellington, the Auckland Museum Shop, Matapihi Gallery in Raglan, Iti gifts Rotorua, iSite and Te Kohao Health Tonga Shop in Hamilton.

Te Kiri sees this opportunity as a way to expand on her current knowledge, build her networks, gain new friends and supporters, while opening new doors, which she intends to walk through boldly.

Nichola already has her sights set on next years NZFW and is earger to stun the audience with more original designs. For more information visit www.nichola.co.nz

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 11

Alice Zhou

BINTANG MODELS Signed to Bintang Models six months ago, Alice Zhou had started training with another modelling agency in China when she was 14 years old. “I have had quite a range of experiences within the industry since I was little,” said Zhou. The stylist who discovered Zhou recommended she get in touch with Bintang because it was a culturally diverse agency that is very responsible for the model’s development. “I knew they were the agency for me.” Now 19 years old, Zhou’s family have strongly supported her to become a model. Her biggest achievement to date was working with Karen Walker for her latest campaign and walking for Zambesi’s SS18 collection. “Elizabeth was incredibly down to Earth; it was an amazing experience.”

As for this New Zealand Fashion Week, Zhou is excited to be involved. “Honestly, I would be honoured to walk for any of the designers showing this year. I would love to learn more about the scene here in Auckland.” Zhou is looking to establish herself in New Zealand before venturing out and joining international agencies. Aside from modelling, Zhou is a talented lady. “Call me crazy, but I am currently studying at the University of Auckland majoring in Finance and Supply Chain Management while managing my modelling career.”

Zhou also loves art and painting and is bilingual, with a wealth of understanding of both Western and Eastern cultures, which she would like to merge in some creative way.

Tashi Levett

Megan Pretorius BINTANG MODELS

Meike Van Roij 62 MODELS

If she were not a model, Megan Pretorius would be indulging her creative side styling shoots and travelling to places with a history of the occult. Having already studied Fashion Design and Fine Arts, Pretorius is now studying a Bachelor of Arts. Her hope is to specialise in Anthropology.

“I have a deep interest in people, the past, religion, art, ritual and occult practices in different cultures and would love to explore these in whatever direction or niche I can find for myself.”

Pretorius became a model at 17 when she went to a casting for a designer looking for non-signed models and ended up signing with her agency. Since then, Pretorius has been with a few different agencies, but the switch to Bintang saw her career take off. Next on the agenda is going international - Pretorius would like to be signed by an overseas agency so she can work abroad and experience other cultures.

Despite her success and ambitions for the future, Pretorius does not sugar coat a life of modelling; “There are a lot of hurdles to overcome in the modelling industry.

Having dealt with anxiety and self-confidence issues in the past, it’s taken a lot to learn to realise my own self-worth.

Being involved in this industry has actually given me a platform on which to be who I want to be.”

When scouted at the tender age of 12, Meike Van Roij was not interested. Three years later, she changed her mind, and 62 Models signed her immediately.

A year later, Van Roij is still at school but is planning international modelling and travel, which she wants to give her all. “I would love to do some more magazine print work in the future. A dream would be to walk in a Dior show, they always look so magical,” said Van Roij. Her Dutch roots mean she still calls Europe home and would love to head back to work in the European modelling industry and experience different designers. Van Roij is also interested in activism through modelling; “I think the largest goal for me is to have a platform or be in spokesperson role in which I can spend my time working for a cause that I stand behind completely,” Van Roij added.

University is on the horizon - possibly with a conjoint degree in medicine and literature - but not until after Van Roij has finished focussing on modelling. “I want to raise awareness for those without access to health care.”

Photographer credit: Amazir Aknine

BINTANG MODELS

BINTANG MODELS

Talia Rose

Andrey Sukholinov

From being scouted seven years ago at age 15, Tashi Levett has been in love with the fashion industry. Since then, Levett’s career highlights have included being featured on the Italian Vogue website and wearing Zambesi at New Zealand China Fashion Culture Week. Growing up in a creative family, Levett draws inspiration from her mother who is a singer-songwriter and healer, her uncle who is a classical composer and her great-uncle who is renowned artist Michael Browne.

Levett plans on beginning tertiary study sometime within the next five years and wants to study something which will allow her to serve people and protect the environment. Future ambitions also include building a creative platform which will unite and empower other young women and promote selfdetermination for young creatives within the fashion industry.

Still buzzing from the excitement of NZCFCW, Levett is looking forward to the energy of New Zealand Fashion Week and hopes to walk for the big names including Zambezi, Jimmy D and Stolen Girlfriends Club. Levett also reveres Te Kohu; “The fusion of cultural identity and streetwear created by this Māori designer is a breath of fresh air.”

Talia Rose’s ultimate dream is to walk for Stolen Girlfriends Club at New Zealand Fashion Week. Growing up, modelling was always an interest for Rose. She was so excited when it became a reality after being scouted by her mother agency, Bintang Models, three years ago. “I was lucky enough to find Bintang who gave me the opportunity,” said Rose.

Since then Rose has been featured in magazines such as Debate, Eye, IntElegance, Most Wanted, as well as Undone Journal and New Zealand Bride and Groom. “I have also been lucky enough to have a photo featured on the Vogue Italia website,” said Rose “My goals are simply to continue to develop and grow as a model and to work with many more inspiring creatives!” In addition to her modelling career, Rose is juggling a conjoint degree in science and arts at the University of Auckland, with majors in chemistry, sociology and criminology.

Andrey Sukholinov has been modelling for eight years after he was first scouted while walking on the street. At 27, he has walked in the last five New Zealand Fashion Weeks, and featured in a swathe of magazines. From Black, Remix, Denizen and M2 to the wedding magazines; Together Journal, Bride & Groom and New Zealand Weddings, chances are you’ve seen Sukholinov in glossy print somewhere.

Represented by Red11 in Auckland, and ILoveModels in Italy, Sukholinov has doors opening and spent the summer in Milan. Sukholinov’s favourite part of the job is working with the wide variety of creatives which he has encountered in the industry, and he would love to pass on his modelling knowledge as a judge on New Zealand’s Next Top Model.

With a degree under his belt, future education is always on the horizon. Sukholinov’s least favourite part of the job: “early call times.”

12 I August 2017

RED11

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I 13

We talked to three international buyers attending New Zealand Fashion Week this year and discussed their backgrounds and what they look for when attending fashion weeks.

Owner of Offspring NY, Herman Solomon has an extensive background in fashion starting in retail in the 80s moving into wholesale in 1997. Originally from New Orleans, Solomon has been in New York since 1997.

Solomon said he felt New Zealand Fashion Week was a great opportunity to connect with designers and retailers that he might

This will be the first New Zealand Fashion Week for Adele Tetangco at Garmentory. Normally, Garmentory only attends New York Fashion Weeks.

“We thought that it would be an amazing opportunity to see what’s going on with all of the designers from New Zealand,” explained Tetangco. “Our customers are big Kowtow fans and there’s so much talk about movements in sustainability coming from the region.

Plus, I’ve always heard that it’s such a beautiful country to visit. So, it was a no brainer!”

Tetangco calls Garmentory’s customers ‘early adopters’ as they are men and women who stand out in their friend circles. They set style trends and

14 I August 2017

not normally see in Paris or New York. “I feel that Offspring NY can be a gateway to North America for the right New Zealand based designers,” added Solomon.

Offspring NY is a wholesale showroom and their customers ‘are the better stores in North America, Asia and Europe’. Offspring NY’s focus has previously been on New York and Paris fashion weeks. “I feel in Paris the buyers are looking for new brands and in NY its more of them writing the collections they currently carry.”

Solomon uses traditional and digital methods for discovering new designers such as Instagram, articles and word of mouth.

Narrative, originality, quality vs price, and demand are key factors when considering a new supplier.

“I hope to discover new designers who potentially could be distributed in the North America market and discover new retailers that are looking for collections that are new to the New Zealand market.”

find what’s next in fashion before anyone else. Their customers have a strong sense of personal style and love discovering new brands and under the radar designers.

Interested in learning how designers operate out of New Zealand, Tetangco wants to get to know the market. “What are their business and design drivers?

What obstacles do they face?”

When choosing a new supplier, Tetangco considers the aesthetic of the actual store, the point of view displayed via imagery, and the types of brands already carried. “I curate Garmentory just as a buyer would curate for their store.”

Moshe Silberberg’s background is diamond studded as the co-owner and buyer of Rijoux. “Having grown up in a household full of diamonds, fashion, and luxury businesses – my parents influenced my career choices,” explained Silberberg.

Silberberg’s father was a diamond dealer and his mother and grandfather were involved in the fashion business for over 40 years in Israel. “I have lived in many parts of the world including Antwerp, Kinshasa, and Panama City.” Currently, Silberberg is based in Israel where he has been running his boutiques in Tel Aviv for the last five years.

The stores are well known for luxury goods, jewellery and fashion.

Attending New Zealand Fashion Week this year, Silberberg said he is scouting for interesting brands and designers who he can stock that other stores don’t have. “The major advantage of attending NZFW for buyers is discovering different culture and fashion styles that can’t be found in other places. Also, to get to see a lot of items in a relatively short time. Everything is also conveniently consolidated in one city.”

He will be utilising the trade showroom supplied by NZFW to place future orders, select new collections and buy available stock.

The majority of Rijoux’s customers are the Jewish communities from around the world, locals or tourists. His boutiques are in different locations and each caters to clients of various ages and styles. “Anyone that walks into our store is considered a customer, and I am buying for them all.”

Each fashion week that Silberberg attends is unique. “For example, the Ukrainian fashion week has more feminine designers while the Tbilisi fashion week showcased more street wear and leather accessories.

Istanbul has a very cool fashion week, and Milan is famed for the big brands showcasing for the luxury market. Paris fashion week LVMH, KERING, the big money.”

Silberberg evaluates everything when considering a new supplier; from press to social media lifestyle, followers, popularity, the fashion show, and bloggers and models associated with the brand. “Consumers buy what they like; marketing influences customers’ choices.”

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FIFTY SHADES OF

BEIGE

Diversity in fashion has long been an issue - from the predominantly white industry to the concept of a ‘nude’ colour. Supposedly a match to the wearer’s skin tone, but more often than not presented in a light shade of beige which only represents Caucasian women, the concept of a ‘nude’ colour is short-sighted and damaging in the face of the actual diversity within the consumer base. Let’s not call it ‘nude’ anymore. Let’s call it beige instead.

Chanel Resene Beethoven

16 I August 2017

t John’s 2018 Cruise Collection is exactly what we imagine the Duchess of Cambridge would wear on a Sunday afternoon to have a glass of chardonnay at home with the girls. Relaxed and tasteful, the collection has soft pinkish hues and beige similar to Resene Alpaca. A combination of loungewear and resort, with some snappy tweed skirt suits thrown into the mix, St John’s collection was the definition of understated luxury.

Looking for a modern version of Downton Abbey’s signature style? Aren’t we all. For Christopher Kane’s Cruise 2018, the Scottish designer stuck to his roots and presented a softly feminine amalgamation of kilts, ruffles and lace in hues similar to Resene Anglaise. A stark contrast from his previous collection, which involved embellished Crocs and a post-apocalyptic theme accented with garish florals. While designers like Alessandro at Gucci have made headway in creating collections which build on each other and span multiple seasons, Kane demonstrates that it’s okay to throw everything out and start again if a previous collection or aesthetic didn’t work. Also, there is hope after Crocs.

The thing with Hermès is that it’s always amazing. It’s noticeably Hermès but only if you are a fellow Hermès fan. The shapes and designs seem simple, but when you look closely, there is innovation and subtlety, and a classic cut which is made to still look fabulous in ten years time. Has an orange suede overall dress ever looked this classy? I think not. Amidst the primary colours was an all-over beige ensemble, close to Resene Bone, made from silk patterned with the iconic Hermès print with a sweater in said print tied aggressively around the model’s neck - chic.

Zac Posen’s ZAC Zac Posen 2018 Cruise Collection is interesting but confusing (as are all eponymously titled repetitive sister brands). In the current fashion climate of 2000’s resurgence, many designers are putting out shapes and ideas which we have seen before, and recently at that. While traditionalists will say it takes twenty years for something to become vintage (cheese, wine, Prada sandals, you get the drift) designs which harken to the mid or late 2000’s are confusing to fashion watchers. Is it genius and fresh? Or is it sad and out of date? Posen’s collection was safe, made for a sartorially cautious consumer. The most risqué item was an embellished bodycon maxi dress in Resene Blank Canvas, which was reminiscent of something Kim Kardashian would have worn before dating Kanye (which isn’t a bad thing).

Marchesa does extra on a Cinderella level (although hopefully their workroom is

Marchesa Resene Just Right

St John Resene Alpaca

Christopher Kane Resene Anglaise

Rochas Resene Cest La Vie

ZAC Zac Posen Resene Calico

Colours available from

MSGM Resene Dust Storm

free of rodent helpers). Expect to see these red-carpet friendly dresses on celebrities left, right and centre. Large rosettes, wispy feathers and whimsical embellishment are all par for the course and designed solely to be the centre of attention. Amongst a cluster of jewel tones, beige close to Resene Just Right popped up covered in beaded tassels.

Neon. It’s back. If you showed up at New Zealand Fashion Week wearing the same outfit that you wore to that Foam Party we all went to in 2011, then you’d be totally on-trend according to MSGM. Their 2018 Cruise Collection combined zesty, unmissable hues with unexpected prints - tweed, pinstripes, anything goes! But just when you thought the collection was all about clashing prints, they transitioned into punchy block colours like a trench coat in Resene Dust Storm.

Let’s start with the embellished ‘R’ details Rochas threw around their 2018 Cruise Collection; sparkly yet subtle, and fabulous - a great way to tie together a collection. Fixed on the side of cross-strap mules and pinned onto sweaters and bags, the simple idea was a nod to logomania and maximalism, while the remainder of the collection was an exercise in subtlety and restraint. Moving onto the next ‘R’ - ruffles; just when we thought they were leaving, they’ve had a resurgence in high fashion. Rochas’ ruffles were soft and feminine, and every ruffled piece - including one in Resene Cest La Vie - was somehow akin to what Keira Knightley might wear to play the role of a widowed art teacher in 1940’s New York City.

Chanel did silk tweed 100 years ago, and Karl Lagerfeld is still obsessed. Recreating vintage designs which rely on being noticeable as Chanel, Lagerfeld’s work raises the question of how closely a designer should align themselves with the original aesthetic of the brand, at the expense of innovation. Chanel’s Cruise 2018 show was Grecian, filled with earthy tones similar to Resene Beethoven. The designs oscillated from the iconic silk tweed Chanel suit to a profusion of garments straight from the 1980’s and a dress which looked suspiciously like a Megara costume from Disney’s Hercules.

Resene ColorShops

www.resene.co.nz

Hermes Resene Bone

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KATE RUSSELL

An accidental career has lead Kate Russell through Melbourne, London and a few movie sets, to her position as Stylist and Art Director of Chop Hairdressing in Wellington. “It wasn’t my first choice to be honest, I fell into it in Christchurch. It’s a craft I have learnt to love over time,” said Russell.

Moving to Melbourne, Russell found herself continuing hairdressing, and then spent a large part of her career in London where she began working with stylists who had a more experimental approach.

Finding her way onto movie sets, music video shoots and magazine spreads, Russell had many moments where she felt intimidated by the creativity at work around her. Soldiering on, Russell rolled with the punches, and held her own - learning in the process that she could achieve anything if she worked hard enough. The Vivienne Westwood campaign which Russell worked on was a career highlight, as was

becoming an educator for legendary haircare brand Kevin Murphy. Having seen that much of the industry, Russell has admiration for people in the industry who work hard.

In her position as Stylist and Art Director of Chop Hairdressing, Russell has an exciting amount of control over branding and direction. “It allows me to take care of the brand, work with cool young bucks in Wellington and create pretty pictures,” said Russell. For aspiring hairdressers, Russell has sage advice - “find a place you love and admire and do your training there.” Getting the proper training, and having a certification is important, as that allows young hairdressers to travel and work overseas.

Practice makes perfect, so hairdressers in training would do well to get in as much time with the scissors as possible. Turning up on time may seem simple but, according to Russell, it is of utmost importance.

HELLO HAIR

Jess Gerring, Sophie Zalkauskas and Jade Thomson are the co-founders of Hello Hair and are very hands on within their business. “There is only the three of us, it means that we are super busy, but we are very hands on, ensuring we are all across all aspects,” said Gerring. “We have always had a similar vision for where we want the business to go.”

The trio didn’t study or come from a beauty or hair focussed background, claiming they fell into the beauty industry. Gerring, Thomson and Zalkauskas all had quite blonde hair and struggled to find a hair treatment that wasn’t packed full of artificial ingredients, nasty chemicals or harsh emulsifiers.

Together they searched to identify ingredients that were natural, gentle and beneficial for all hair types.

“When we launched our business, there were very few companies doing what we were doing on Instagram, and nobody was leading the charge in the hair care space,” Gerring explained.

“We were fortunate to come into the market

18 I August 2017

when we did, and our first product, Original Hydrating Hair Mask, went viral on social media when we launched in December 2013.”

Their customers have a very high expectation of the products, which drives Hello Hair to continue to develop high performing naturally derived hair care.

They also ensure that their products are always ‘instagramable’ as well, given they are a business who is prominent on social media.

The three-year-old brand settled on the name Hello Hair after agreeing on its extensive international reach. “We thought the word ‘hello’ was fitting because it’s such a globally recognised and understood word. It rolls off the tongue quite easily.”

Proudly Australian-made, vegan, and crueltyfree, the team at Hello Hair work with a beauty manufacturer in Melbourne to collaboratively develop their natural products. With 12 different products available on their website, Hello Hair has several more in the works.

“Because we do develop all of the products in our range from scratch, it is quite a long journey from conception to release,” said Gerring.

“All of the ingredients within our products are straightforward and easy to understand, no unpronounceable names or crazy chemical compounds are inside.”

Currently stocked in Loxy’s in Auckland and Wellington and Spring Day Spa in Auckland, the team is excited to expand their business. “We are always looking for new stockists, and anyone looking to stock our products in their shop, salon or online store is welcome to contact us!”

For more information visit www.hellohair. com.au.

REB COSMETICS Ruth Elizabeth Brown grew up with sensitive skin which made it impossible for her to wear makeup.

After deciding to take matters into her own hands, Brown began looking at the ingredients listed on makeup packages and researching the ingredients to find out what they actually were. Brown realised that the reason she reacted so badly to makeup was the high levels of chemicals used in most makeup, and was horrified when she found out about the cruelty and prevalence of animal testing. Realising the gap in the market, Brown began developing her own makeup brand, one that was vegan, cruelty-free, and that she could wear without having painful reactions.

The first product Brown set about producing was lipstick. Inspired by youthful rummages through her mother’s makeup bag and her fascination with vibrant lip colours, Brown knew that this would be the perfect place to start. REB Cosmetics now produces 18 shades of lipstick, and they are Brown’s favourite part of her product range. Creating new

BEE YÜ

Luxury skincare brand bee yü is now one year old and can be seen this year at New Zealand Fashion Week.

“This year we will be working with Adrian Hailwood again and Stolen Girlfriends Club. We launched last year at NZFW with Adrian Hailwood,” said the brand’s marketing director, Jeevan Verma.

Bee yü partnered with Hailwood and CARLSON earlier this year during iD Fashion Week as well for an exclusive VIP show. “We wanted to host our own event that would showcase the best in fashion and the best in beauty – and we’re extremely proud to be associated with Hailwood and CARLSON.” The Dunedin-based natural skincare brand uses a unique combination of pure New Zealand botanicals to create a range of bee venom anti-aging products. bee yü have hives located around the country and was originally founded by four partners; Jeevan Verma,

colours is one of the best parts of her job.

Ethics are a large part of Brown’s business model. “I work with our makers on creating our products. And love to only use certified and mineral ingredients so I oversee everything when our products are being developed,” said Brown. “A lot of our customers are not vegan, and I sometimes will get asked if they need to be vegan to use our cosmetics. I laugh as I say ‘no’ but you will benefit from using our products as they contain no animal ingredients and are all natural.”

Brown is the owner and designer of REB Cosmetics, as well as working on filling and delivering orders for stockists and consumers who purchase via their website. Visual merchandising is important for Brown, as is educating her stockists - so they are better equipped to sell her products.

While being a supplier for a variety of stores across Australia and Singapore currently takes up all of Brown’s time, she has set herself the goal of opening a REB Cosmetics store next year and expanding her stockists further abroad.

Andre Shi, Sally Richards, and David McLellan.

It all started with an idea to use the natural goodness of Manuka honey to develop a premium natural skincare range, one that provides real benefits to women wanting healthier and naturally younger looking skin. “While there are many honey-based skincare products on the market many lack any real refinement, making it nearly impossible for any natural benefits to be derived from the ingredients,” added Verma.

Quality ingredients are a key element to their unique formula that is carefully crafted and balanced to provide optimal anti-ageing and nourishing benefits. One of the many ingredients found in bee yü is a high concentration of Manuka honey at 20+ Unique Manuka Factor which is only found in New Zealand. “We source just the right levels of bee venom to increase blood flow to the treated skin, stimulating natural collagen and elastin production and giving the skin a healthy glow.”

The development of their skincare line allows bee yü to fund projects aimed at future-proofing bees. All products are made in the South Island and don’t contain any parabens or other harmful chemicals.

Available in selected stores and online.

For more information, visit www. beeyuskincare.co.nz.

2017 TEAMWEAR OUT NOW!

SEE IT FIRST AT

APPA TRADESHOW 23rd AUGUST AUCKLAND ALEXANDRA PARK, EPSOM

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2/08/2017 12:31:22 PM

SETSETSET

Showcasing her collection at Vancouver Fashion Week, designer Yoonkyung Jang seeks the opportunity to move her brand out of Korea. “Nothing is more important than this,” Jang said.

This is SETSETSET’s first fashion week and the team is excited to debut overseas. For her Vancouver Fashion Week debut, Jang wants to design every culture product that can communicate with people. “Clothing, videos, music… Look at everything you see in your eyes and listen to everything you hear in your ears.”

The 24-year-old designer grew up in South Korea and majored in Textile Design at Hanyang University while studying various topics as she moved from Jewellery to Fashion Design. “I do not criticize Korea, but most Koreans think our culture is very countrified. I want to break that idea. I want to communicate with people around the

world with Korean culture and show it to my country.”

Previously, Jang made every piece herself, but now she works with manufacturers who are more experienced. There are seven members in the SETSETSET crew consisting of a photographer, a graphic designer, an illustrator, a composer, a business director, a marketer and of course Jang as the sole designer. Just one year old, the brand was created when Jang met a producer who was looking for Korean contemporary ethic music. “We had a very passionate discussion about Korean culture and this is the origin of the current SETSETSET.” When Jang is designing, she asks herself ‘what do I want to say?’ and she believes this is the most important thing in her practice. SETSETSET are available in various online stores and one boutique in Korea. Jang is looking to stock her brand in more retail stores and is also looking into opening her own bricks and mortar store. When it comes to brand awareness Jang said without social media, SETSETSET would not be known to you.

Jang plans to travel the world with her culture. “We want to participate in many overseas fashion weeks as much as possible,” she said. “Our final goal is to grow into a brand that can represent Korea.” For more information visit: www.facebook. com/setsetsetofficial/

ANNA FRANCESCA – FASHION REVOLUTION revolution,” she said. Blasser added that making and designing go hand in hand.

As the sole designer, Blasser said nothing is done without her seal of approval.

“I have my atelier, Rockatelier, with my sewing crew but I’m in top of everything. I help create patterns, figure out shapes, I like being hands on and all of the designs come from me.” Heavily inspired by painting, Blasser explained that she also does mixed media on canvas where she gets to play with different materials. In particular, she loves Native American Anna Francesca Blasser has been in love with colours, textures since she can remember. Born in Panama, Blasser was never a fan of school and always wanted to follow her own beat.

She spent some time in SCAD, went to the New York Film Academy and graduated from Florence University of the Arts.

“Fashion is sculpture, I’m sculpting the body. Also, fashion is art and I feel nowadays there is no art in fashion.

So, I thought it was time for a fashion

20 I August 2017

culture and their colours and nature.

Shapes and textures from her everyday life also inspires her, but her biggest influence has to be her imagination.

“It is amazing what one can visualise.

Dreams inspire me too. I need to feel it in order to create it.”

The brand is now eight years old and Blasser plans to spread her vision even further and make people understand the power of imagination, the importance of art, and the beauty of colour. Excited to embark on this adventure, Blasser has always wanted to

go to Vancouver and is ready to show the public her vision. “I can take them on a journey and they can experience what I am all about.”

Blasser prefers her brand to be represented in one of kind boutiques or a special department. She believes there is nothing better than making something unique and she knows her customers would want to feel special when they buy a piece.

“Nothing makes me happier than sharing a piece of me through colours and textures.”

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Tess Norquay

TESS NORQUAY Massey University

Tess Norquay’s brand is as new as it possibly could be. Straight out of university, Norquay is excited to show her collection for the first time at New Zealand Fashion Week.

Create Your Future Do what you love Massey University College of Creative Arts Wellington Apply now creative.massey.ac.nz

22 I August 2017

“I’m shaking in my boots,” she said. As a onewoman band, Norquay explained that someone once emailed her with “Dear staff of Ms. Norquay,” and although she laughed, she was quite flattered that someone thought she could possibly have staff.

“However, the other two former students showing in the graduate show, Shannen and Yoshino, are persistently helpful sounding boards.

They’ve stopped me from making some very stupid decisions.”

A highlight in her collection is the calf-length jacket with three tiers of ruffles. “It took twelve metres of fabric, and is too heavy to take as carry-on on a plane.”

At NZFW, she is showcasing an expansion of her graduate collection titled “Please Like Me” which was her response to the way everyday language objectifies women; such as ‘cheap’, ‘upgrade’, damaged goods’ and ‘the like’.

Her new work is very much in the same spirit, but is even more over the top and theatrical, which Norquay didn’t think was possible. “It’s been an excellent excuse to try some new things that I would have been nervous of this time last year.”

SHANNEN YOUNG Massey University

Fresh out of university, Shannen Young is presenting an extended collection from her 2016 graduate project at New Zealand Fashion Week this year. The collection explores the difference in dress between East and West.

“This led me to explore alternative pattern making,” she said.

“The concept ‘flatness’ inspired the cut of the garments. My pattern process was very experimental at first, but after I developed key silhouettes I was able to base other designs off them.”

Although this collection will not be available for purchase, the designs can be easily adapted for the commercial market.

Young hopes her time at NZFW will connect her with the people who are interested in what she does. She also wants to gain insight into the New Zealand fashion industry.

The collection features big sleeves, bold visual prints, 2-D silhouettes and shape opposition in heavy weight bonded fabrics, silks and cotton lawn. “The classic check and stripe pattern has been warped or manipulated to give it a 3-D quality that counteracts the flat shapes.” A highlight in the collection is the green, blue and beige stripe coat. “The combination of colours complement each other well and bring out the vibrancy in the other.”

JORGE ALFARO Whitecliffe

Jorge Alfaro is a fashion designer with a broad aesthetic that extends from the creation of futuristic avant-garde garments to the development of an activewear brand that is to be launched at the 2018 Vancouver Fashion Week. “Being involved in both these areas of design allows me to build a sustainable business-savvy brand but at the same time continue with my passion for innovation and designing freely,” he said. Alfaro also teaches on the Whitecliffe Fashion Design programme. “I love passing on the knowledge I have gained and working with aspiring designers is extremely rewarding.”

Alfaro works closely with stylists within the New Zealand fashion industry and his avant-garde garments are an integral part of the entrants’

submissions in the annual hair competition Wella Trendvision. He even had one of his garments selected for the World of Wearable Arts Museum in 2012 when he was still studying at Whitecliffe.

The activewear collection, constructed with technologicallyadvanced fabrics, is designed specifically for women who appreciate stylish, highfunctioning garments that transition from activities like yoga and jogging to casual, comfortable wear.

“My intention with this collection is to create a globally-recognised brand that delivers high-end sports clothes to a wide range of international markets.”

Born in Peru, Alfaro grew up in New York and, after moving to New Zealand, he applied to Whitecliffe because he had heard of the school’s strong industry contacts. “Whitecliffe is not only a school where you develop creative potential, but there is also a support system that helps guide you after graduation,” Alfaro added.

“I love designing and making clothes, and at Whitecliffe we were given the freedom to explore and flourish from within.”

EMMA GREEN Whitecliffe

Emma Green lives in London and runs her own freelance active-wear design consultancy working with international clothing companies that include Ten Thousand in New York City, Triumph in Germany, Vaara in London and several start-up brands. Green’s international design career had its beginnings in Auckland when she started as a denim designer for Workshop just after graduating in 2004, and then as merino apparel design and product manager for Orca. Her move to London was to take up the position of lead womenswear designer for Rapha – creators of quality cycling clothing and accessories.

With her design consultancy firmly established, Green now leads the entire design process for her clients’ companies. “I work a lot remotely from my London base, but also travel to meet clients.

My week can vary from flying to Germany to work on fittings for Triaction by Triumph, to fitting activewear in Lithuania for my main London client. It’s full on,” Green said. “I basically lead the design for all these companies so instead of being a designer for just one brand I am now the designer for multiple brands.”

Her expertise extends beyond designing to encompass the entire manufacturing and marketing process. “My consultancy company advises my start-up clients on how to enter and understand the world of clothing manufacturing. I guide them through the product development process and in essence show them how to create an apparel brand and a collection to take to market.” While at Whitecliffe, Green explained, she was able to develop as a designer. “I was taught amazing grounding across all disciplines. I thoroughly enjoyed the mix of academia and creative studies.”

GET THE WHITECLIFFE EDGE

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Olivia Cashmore

Whitecliffe Fashion Design graduates think creatively, take risks, and have a high level of industry standard technical skill. They are innovators with a personal vision who build careers as highly respected professionals within the Fashion industry.

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JORDAN NOAH NZ Fashion Tech

Jordan Noah grew up in Auckland and after high school she travelled around Europe. When Noah returned, she furthered her education at Massey University in Wellington and New Zealand Fashion Tech in Auckland. During her time at NZFT, Noah was privileged enough to be chosen to receive a Prime Minister’s Scholarship for Asia attending an Indian Textile and Apparel program. “I was based at Bannari Amman Institute of Technology in Tamil Nadu,” she said. “There we attended lectures, met with Indian manufacturers in the art of silk reeling, lace making, yarn spinning, textile production and dying in traditional and modern practices. Overall, it was an extremely inspiring experience.”

Showcasing eight looks at New Zealand Fashion Week this year, a standout piece in her Innerbloom

collection is the frill jacket in blush linen. The piece is a light feminine number with textured raw edged frills.

Each garment in Innerbloom was made from 100 percent high quality linen fabric. “Natural fabric has always been a favourite when creating my garments,” added Noah. “I love how it looks when it creases and moulds into the movement of someone’s unique body shape. This creates an individual look on each person even though it may be the same garment being worn.”

The collection explores geometric shapes and simplistic silhouettes combined with voluminous feminine frills, raw edges, waist ties and rouche detailing. Jordan Noah is a womenswear brand that can be worn anywhere, anytime with a sense of modern inspiration aimed at women of all ages.

Noah explained that competing with fast fashion and the constant pressure to pump out new pieces quickly is a challenge that everyone in the modern fashion industry experiences. “New Zealanders love quality and New Zealand made.” At the moment, Noah is in the process of creating an e-commerce website and will be announcing the launch date on her Instagram (@jordannoah_). “I am extremely excited for what the future holds for Jordan Noah!”

OLLI PAROLI NZ Fashion Tech

Growing up in Wellington, Olli Paroli started studying fashion at NZ Fashion Tech at just 17-yearsold. “I have been furiously working on my postgraduate collection for New Zealand Fashion Week in August,” Paroli said. Last year he was chosen for the Prime Minister’s Scholarship to study textiles and manufacturing for six weeks.

Now 20-years-old, Paroli said he has always been fussy about what he wore. “I guess by making clothes and getting to style and curate someone’s look, I’m just projecting that issue onto other people.”

During his time at NZ Fashion Tech, Paroli said the most important thing he learned was that mistakes are an opportunity disguised as a misstep. Jimmy D, Kowtow, Daniel Palillo, and Discount Universe inspired Paroli to jump into the fashion industry.

Over the past few summers, Paroli has been interning at Kowtow in Wellington. “I pack online orders mostly, as well as retail work, sample sewing, moving stock. They are such an inspiring team that I’m lucky to, intermittently, be a part of.”

Certificate in Fashion Technology LEVEL 3

Certificate in Pattern Design

NZ Fashion Tech

LEVEL 4

Diploma in Fashion Technology LEVEL 5

ENROL

NOW

AUCKLAND CBD

24 I August 2017

|

MANUKAU CBD

|

WELLINGTON CBD

ABBEY MCMASTER

Southern Institute of Technology

At New Zealand Fashion Week, Paroli is excited to be displaying eight looks from his collection titled Shit Night Out. “It was inspired by Wellington’s sub-par nightlife and the anxiety I associate with that,” he added. Paroli has relished the whole process of designing this collection, even the unpicking.

Sustainability has been the biggest shift in fashion that Paroli has seen. “Transparent supply chains, fair trade labour, materials that are organic, recycled or upcycled.

While it can sometimes come across as a contrived marketing gimmick, New Zealand is lucky to be rich in brands that are genuinely taking steps to reduce their imprint on the earth and ensure the people that work for them are looked after.”

With the intent of creating a physical retail space, Paroli said for now online is an easier and quicker way to put himself and his brand out there.

Currently accepting pre-orders for both collection pieces and custom work. For more information visit www.fb.me/shitnightout.

Having recently taken out the Young Designer Award for her entry in the Nightlife section at the Hokonui Fashion Design Awards, Abbey McMaster is slightly stunned but very happy with the result of her hours of sewing.

The Hokonui Fashion Design Awards, held in Gore, Southland, attract designers from all over, making her win all the sweeter as McMaster is a local Southland girl. Studying a Bachelor of Fashion Design and Technology at Southern Institute of Technology (SIT) in Invercargill, McMaster loves the south and is hoping to be making gowns for people and their special events in Southland in the future.

Holding herself to high standards, every garment she makes is competition-worthy.

Her inspiration didn’t come in any one form, but she credits a small obsession with couture designer Elie Saab and flowers somehow seem to come through in all her work.

“I’m not sure what inspired me mainly, but I have had this design in my mind for a very long time,” said McMaster.

The euphoria of the win is not just about the 150 hours McMaster spent sewing the garment, she appreciates the fact that other people love the gown as much as she does

and is glad she entered.

“It is such an amazing competition, and it’s great that it’s local for me.” Looking to the future, she will definitely keep sewing and making gowns. “Hopefully it will lead to something, at the moment the doors are wide open.”

FASHION @ SIT Gore District Council - Young Designer Award ª Abbey McMaster (2016 SIT Graduate)

Fredericks - Menswear Award ª Olivia Dowling (2016 SIT Graduate)

Merit Awards - Open Section

ª Laura Black (SIT Year 3 Student)

Abbey McMaster (right) with the winning entry Photo by: Nick McGrath

TALK TO US ABOUT YOUR 2017/2018 STUDY OPTIONS. 0800 4 0 FEES www.sit.ac.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 25

FASHION ON THE FARM With a quarter of New Zealand’s population in Auckland, it can be easy to slip into a city-centric mindset. Many of our large businesses operate from Auckland, with many of the remainder based in Wellington, Christchurch or Dunedin - meaning many of New Zealand’s smaller towns are out of sight, and firmly out of mind. But sadly for the residents of these small towns, it means our most popular creatives may not extend their reach far enough off the beaten track to have a physical presence. Many rural retailers report facing an uphill battle when trying to convince designers to allow them to stock products.

M

ichelle Marie Baynes owns Money For Wine, a retail store with attached coffee shop in Mandeville, near Gore. Baynes is quick, zesty and very passionate about fashion - she’s a store owner in touch with customers, overseas trends and the wider retail market. But Baynes’ vision of opening a retail store with popular brands and exciting customer events came up short when she ran into a slew of high-profile New Zealand brands who refused to supply her. Baynes was told it was the location. “So many people simply don’t get back to you, which is sad when we have such a good pitch. Or they just strike us down - it’s a nightmare.

“I spend so much time networking and trying to approach different people, and it’s such a waste,” said Baynes. “We are in the middle of nowhere, but there are towns not too far from us, and if we had some of those bigger brands, it would draw out the people from those towns, and we would sell all the stock easily.

Fashion moves so fast, and we want to be able to stay with the customers and trends while putting our mark on it. Money For Wine is constantly changing, we’re on top of the trends, and staying with customers. We’re always different, we’re doing our homework well.”

Baynes isn’t expecting her potential suppliers to come to her. “I fly to Auckland to meet with people, I’m putting everything on the line, and if they like it, they’ll come on board. But some people choose not to; they don’t want to take the risk of supplying us, it’s easy to be disheartened. When you’re out as far as we are, you have to work even harder to get the customers and sales. The good thing is that if you can make it in the middle of nowhere, you can make it anywhere.”

Baynes is constantly evolving the store merchandising and product selection. “We have managed to get Augustine, which is so popular with the local customers and it’s such a help even to have one key brand. We are very excited at the moment because we just found out Coop is going to supply us, which is amazing! It makes the store much more of a destination because people will get excited to come out and see the new collections.” While Baynes has had recent success with a few brands, she is still being realistic and not resting on a few big names. “You win some, you lose some. I’m going to keep on pushing.”

Kelly Coe, the designer of Augustine, has over 60 stockists across New Zealand and four of her own stores. “It surprises me that anyone is being told they

26 I August 2017

Prada Marfa, 2005. Elmgreen and Dragset.

won’t be stocked based on their location,” Coe said.

“It may be that designers can’t supply stores due to exclusive arrangements with other retailers in the area, which retailers who are new to the industry may not understand. If it was a cool store, I doubt there would be a designer anywhere who would say ‘no’.”

Coe has new retailers contacting her weekly, who she has to turn down due to already having retailers in the area. “We can’t have retailers who are a ten-minute drive away from each other. We find a retailer in each town who has the best fit and feel for our brand, and who stocks other brands which appeal to our customer base. We have a group of core customers who have grown with us over the years and are typically very brand loyal, so it is important we are in a store which will appeal to them.”

Coe added that geographic location alone has no bearing on whether she would choose to supply a retailer or not. “The only reason someone would refuse to stock a retailer would be that it was not the right fit, or if they did not have good credit references.”

Despite her own wide outlook, Coe does acknowledge that many labels are decidedly Auckland-centric.

Preferring Fashion Weekend over Fashion Week, Coe said she focuses on the customers and not just media.

This customer centric focus is also the driving factor

behind Augustine’s wide range of stockists from all over the country, many of whom live rurally. “There is no reason for brands similar to Augustine not to be available in small towns - some of our best customers are residents in small towns.” Coe advises retailers struggling to find suppliers to find which customers they are attracting, then target labels those customers want. “A common mistake made by many new retailers is trying to stock every brand they can find, which leads to overstocking and overwhelms customers.”

Consumers want a to see a range of items from the same designer, not just one or two pieces from lots of different designers. Coe added that another crucial element is the interior of the store. “It doesn’t cost much to have a cool fit-out.”

While e-commerce is certainly going from strength to strength, bricks and mortar still has a vibrant place in the fashion industry. Brands who refuse to supply people run the risk of cutting off the nose to spite the face and also gaining a bad reputation. However, the onus is also on retailers to do their homework, find their niche in the local retail landscape and identify their target customers. This will set them up to have the best possible pitch when approaching brands.

There is more to rural New Zealand than Swandris and gumboots.

RETAIL PREVAIL New Zealand has long been the domain of small retailers, a peaceful little shopping haven with a variety of New Zealand owned and operated boutiques and chains. But overseas giants are threatening our retail environment - the entry of Topshop, quickly followed by H&M and Zara was touted as the end of local brands (namely Glassons), and now it is reported that a slew of other overseas retailers are eyeing us up.

W

hile traditionally, large international brands overlooked New Zealand due to our geographic isolation and the relatively high cost of operating here, they increasingly see New Zealand as a lucrative new market. So how are Kiwi retailers responding? And is this the end of New Zealand fashion retail as we know it?

According to a report from CBRE, over 50 international brands have picked New Zealand as the location for their next expansion. These brands view the Pacific as an emerging market, and while many brands have been in Australia for a while, the spotlight has fallen on New Zealand more recently, due to our untapped consumer potential. While the fast fashion giants landed first, they are not the only ones planning to make the trip down-under. CBRE’s report specifically points to mid-range and specialist clothing brands as the most likely segments to enter New Zealand. Additionally, rumours are rife that David Jones will be opening a large new store in the Westfield complex in Newmarket - a direct competition to Smith & Caughey’s Newmarket presence.

Max has been a mid-priced mall fixture in the New Zealand retail market for years, and aren’t letting the presence of international competitors ruffle their feathers. Simon West, the managing director of Max, has noticed significant changes in the retail market in recent years, but not solely resulting from the increasing internationalisation of our market. “The changes are occurring in two ways,” explained West. “Firstly, there is the increased focus in online and digital and secondly, there is the growing presence of international competitors which is affecting us, but only in a very localised way.” According to West, the internationalisation is happening in two areas of the fashion industry - the fast fashion sector and the luxury sector. While Max is traditionally positioned between these two as a mid-priced brand, “the changes in digitalisation and the increasing popularity of disposable fastfashion as well as luxury items has meant we have modified to keep up.”

“We’re in a good area coming from a mid-priced position because now we offer more entry-level priced items which appeal on a fast-fashion level, as well as more exit-level priced items, for consumers who are looking for something that feels more like a luxury product. We have also adopted more multichannel strategies, blending online and social media to reach customers.” But there have been changes to bricks and mortar too, with malls now pulling ahead of stand alone stores regarding foottraffic and sales revealed West. “We’ve seen a shift in the mall environment. Some malls have increased their performance, and chased on-trend food offerings and popular retailers, which make them better destinations, and improves our stores’ performance within them. On the other hand, some malls have fallen behind, not updated food offerings, and the stores within them are weaker as a result.” While the presence of brands like H&M and Zara have added competition in particular areas, the effect has been localised to those malls. “We look at these stores, like Zara at Sylvia Park, as just a single store to compete with, they aren’t competing with us for all of New Zealand, just the customers in that specific location.”

Flo & Frankie have been expanding all over Auckland, with a mixture of pop-up stores, permanent physical stores and their online and social media presence. The launches of overseas brands have not affected their business, according to Fashion buyer and marketing manager, Ruby Conyngham. “We’re not in the same market, so aren’t in direct competition, and we aren’t trying to compete,” explained Conyngham.

“When Zara and H&M arrived, there was a lot of hype, but no real change to our business.” While they are appealing to consumers for different reasons, and operating

on a vastly different business model, Conyngham suspects there will be a positive effect on the New Zealand market due to the presence of these brands which may spill over to Flo & Frankie. “Having larger fast-fashion brands here gets people thinking about trends more, and opens the New Zealand market up to overseas trends which otherwise might not get attention from consumers here. It’s good to have that international exposure because it means we can be more risky with our buying. At the moment, we work six months behind the overseas trends, but now that the larger, international brands are introducing the trends, we can have more fun as consumers are processing trends faster.”

Conyngham admits that there are challenges to this approach “We do have a slower turnaround time, it’s harder for a small New Zealand retailer to get garments made or sourced garments than the large brands.” For small Kiwi retailers, the presence of a large international retailer may be intimidating, but Conyngham has plenty of sage advice from her years of growing the Flo & Frankie brand. “New Zealand retailers shouldn’t try to compete with larger corporates on price, it’s impossible for us to do that. Instead, we need to find what we do best - whether it is customer service or quality - and be competitive with that. Positioning is also important, Flo & Frankie is a small, family-run business, although many customers don’t realise that. We try to make sure our customers know who we are, and realise that we are a New Zealand business. Combined with our high-quality products, this separates small businesses like us from large corporates.”

Olivia Vincent, the owner of Muse Boutique, has similarly not noticed a change in the retail environment thus far. While Zara and H&M are operating in an entirely different sphere to Muse, which is a small luxury boutique with international brands and their own cashmere line, Vincent said that the arrival of David Jones in Newmarket’s 277 Westfield would bring changes to her business. “Newmarket would be even more of a shopping destination,” explained Vincent. “Hopefully they won’t be stocking the same brands like us, but I do have a long relationship with my suppliers, so I don’t think that would happen.” The challenge for Vincent is pricing; “A larger company might make 50,000 cashmere sweaters at once, so they can charge less, but we make small quantities so charge a higher price. Some people point that out and go online to find things cheaper, but some of them understand and want to support a local business. All our customers are our friends, and that’s our strong point.” With increased internationalisation, Vincent said “everyone needs to focus on their brand and aesthetic. Supplier exclusivity is also very important.”

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I 27

Vlad Tichen MENSWEAR STYLIST

First, here’s a little history: In 1926, a young a football player at the University of Alabama named Benjamin Russell Jr. came up with the idea of a comfortable cotton practice football jumper replacing their itchy wool sports jersey. His father Benjamin Russell Sr. was the owner of the garment factory and thought that the proposal was neat. Together they launched a new company, Russell Athletic Co., and started the production. People loved this new thing, the sweatshirt they called it. No wonder! It was durable, cool-looking, and less pretentious than woollen knitwear. Within a few years, it had become a synonym of comfort and leisurely style.

Nowadays the world is filled with countless sweatshirt options, and sometimes it’s hard to know whether you’re picking the right one. So, if you are a retailer that aims to build a perfect apparel selection for your customers, here are a couple of guidelines for you.

STICK WITH A CLASSIC

SWEATSHIRT

Athleisure. Athletic leisure. A monster of a word, but like it or not, it is the hottest fashion trend at the moment. It is shining brightly on a fashion horizon, and I say-no wonder! Everyone is crazy about them yoga pants, and mesh tank tops, and spotless track shoes that never had a run on the treadmill, but there’s one garment that fit into the athleisure trend quite well while staying perfectly timeless. An easy “go-to” item for every fashion buyer. It is a good old sweatshirt.

Of course, different variations of this staple piece were invented over the years. All those styles with hoods, zippers, and whatnot. But the original crew neck is something that is considered a timeless classic.

THERE’S ONLY ONE COLOUR TO CHOOSE FROM

Paraphrasing the words of Henry Ford, you can pick any colour that you want so long as it is grey. Okay, it may not be as dramatic as it sounds. It’s just that grey is very versatile and easy to combine with other colours and different shoe styles, whether they’re white sneakers, brown desert boots, or black army boots.

PICK “LOOPBACK” AND NEVER LOOK BACK

Loopback is a particular type of weave in which the face of the fabric is smooth and closely-knitted when the underside has all those loops that aim to absorb sweat and keep you dry and cooling down body temperature.

V-STITCH AS A TRADEMARK You probably noticed that some of the sweatshirt styles feature this little triangle right below the collar.

This detail was featured on a sweatshirt since the very beginning. Originally it was made out of different type of fabric – usually, a ribbed cotton jersey also used for waistbands and cuffs. Designed to allow the material to absorb the sweat in a more effective manner.

Nowadays, more often than not you’d see just an overlock stitching below the collar band. It is more about style rather than practical purpose. To summarise, the sweatshirt is a true essential in any wardrobe and a perfect example of the athleisure trend. This is the item you would want to wear to the gym pairing it with shorts or track pants or you could mix it together with your raw denim jeans and a pair of chunky boots for a walk in the park. You could even rock it with a tailored soft-shouldered blazer, tapered chinos, and good loafers.

And yes, you can even do yoga in it.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Jaheb Barnett, jahebbarnett.com

The Sustainability Team at Cotton On Group

OPERATING WITH INTEGRITY “Customers today are expecting more personalised, fast-paced and convenient shopping experiences, while at the same time becoming increasingly conscious of where and how their products are made.

Around the world, we’re seeing a greater number of customers choosing to shop with brands that conduct their business operations ethically, are transparent and have a purpose that goes beyond selling their products.

As a family-run business, operating with integrity has run at the core of the Cotton On Group since day one, underpinned by a firm belief that it is not just the best way to do business but simply the right thing to do.

28 I August 2017

Our commitment in this area led to the creation of our Ethical Sourcing Program and 14 Rules to Trade, which guides and governs the sourcing, manufacturing and supply of our products. Our business works closely with hundreds of suppliers globally to ensure they understand and adhere to our 14 Rules to Trade, which covers important issues like workers rights and the environment.

A critical factor in the success of our Ethical Sourcing Program is the long-standing partnerships we have with our suppliers – many of whom have been with the business over the last 20 years. The strength of these partnerships, supported by a strong two-way dialogue, allows us to work together to ensure the environments in which our products are made are safe and fair, while continually looking for ways to be more sustainable.

Today, we also have a major focus on traceability and have been working closely with each of our suppliers to trace where and how each of our products are made – all the way through to raw materials. Our current goal is end-to-end mapping of all suppliers and materials used in our products and we have

set ourselves a target to achieve 100 percent public disclosure across all stages of production by the end of 2018. As we work towards full traceability, we continue to look for opportunities where we can positively impact communities within our supply chain, one of which is in the area of cotton sourcing.

As a business that uses thousands of tonnes of cotton each year, we know there is enormous opportunity to support more sustainable cotton farming practises, and make a positive difference in people’s lives along the way. Through our partnership with the Better Cotton Initiative and our very own sustainable cotton farming project in Kenya, we’re working towards having 100 percent more sustainable cotton through our supply chain by 2021.

We’re incredibly proud of what we have achieved to date, but we know there is always more to be done, and we’re on a continuous road to improvement. Our score in Baptist World Aid’s 2017 Australian Fashion Report is testament to this, and we’ll continue to work hard to ensure the environments in which our products are sourced and manufactured are safe, fair and sustainable.”

6 things you need to know about the ASOS strategy There aren’t many retailers that can claim a 32 percent sales increase right now. But ASOS did just that, in the four months to June this year and is expecting full year profits to be £79.4m. Clearly, there are things you need to know about ASOS. Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITED What is it about its strategy that means the OG of trend-led e-commerce still has room to grow, in an increasingly crowded marketplace? Of course, there’s not one simple thing the retailer is doing to make their millions. Sorry, that would be too easy. Instead there’s a combination of factors balanced out to result in bottom line growth. Let’s go through them.

THE ASOS STRATEGY 1. TREND IS TOP PRIORITY At the very centre of the ASOS masterplan is an undying commitment to trend. Nearly half (41 percent) of the current offering arrived in the last three months, and the site receives between 2,500 and 7,000 new products every week. Newness drives the business.

ASOS is meticulous on the timing of its trends too – the retailer doesn’t drop singular styles into stock, it waits for full stories to be in stock and launches them in the one hit (hence the variance in new product releases each week). And the retailer is among the first in the industry to break those trends.

Take the colour yellow, which is on its way to booting millennial pink off trend top-spot. ASOS began increasing its stock of the shade dramatically in May, introducing more than twice as many new products as in April 2016. The rest of the UK market still lags on this trend. Across the full market there was a rise in new arrivals in June, a month later than ASOS, but by only 32 percent compared to a year ago. We expect to see this ramp up in the following months, but ASOS are already in prime position to take the win.

This skill with timing not only feeds the retailer’s content, but having a full range of merchandise for a trend story places them as an authority on trend within consumers’ minds.

its own consumer in mind. In fact, 5 percent of the branded offering is merchandised as being ‘exclusive’.

And prices on those exclusives skew higher than the rest of the assortment.

ASOS uses these exclusives to drive specific trends it’s focusing on. For example, color: there’s a greater emphasis on shades of pink and yellow in their exclusive selection than in their non-exclusive offering.

Exclusives are also used to reiterate ASOS’s activewear difference – something the retailer has recently upped the ante on – featuring exclusives with Puma, Ellesse and Nike.

3. DESPITE THAT, THERE’S A RELIABLE CORE Although trend is ASOS’s golden child, the retailer still has a solid range of replenished core items. In fact, more than 8 percent of the current offering was first introduced more than a year ago.

That’s more than at Forever 21, where product 12 months or older only accounts for 3 percent of the offering, or Topshop at 5 percent.

So, what’s in the core?

• Own-brand blue and black denim for women and men • Tommy Hilfiger tees and shirts for men • Birkenstocks, Nike and Converse footwear • Bras – strapless and styles which run in larger cup sizes • Simple own-brand shirts and blouses in white, navy and black • Lace occasionwear dresses • Items from ASOS Curve and Maternity lines

2. AT ANY COST

4. THERE’S A DISTINCT APPROACH TO DISCOUNTING

Trend even takes a precedent over price. Data shows that ASOS isn’t trying to be cheapest. In fact, its price architecture is very different from other trend-led youth retailers like Boohoo, H&M and Forever 21.

Instead, ASOS opts to have stand-out product, at any cost (within reason). ASOS’s pricing is more in line with traditional catalogue retailers than with fellow fastfashion, trend-led e-commerce players.

On branded goods, ASOS frequently buy into a higher range of pricing than the brands stock on their own sites. That’s the case with both New Look and Warehouse. ASOS wants the best, most unusual product. One way it differentiates its assortment is by working directly with brands to produce product with

ASOS has a strong stance on discounting, choosing to partition its reduced product off into an outlet section rather than saturate its main offering with too many price slashes. That way it’s only the most ardent of sales shoppers who will discover the ASOS outlet section. The retailer even introduces new branded product directly into the outlet section.

Outside of outlet, discounting is mostly promotional, with key dates in June and December sales as well as driven by email discount codes. In the last three months, 20 out of 40 email newsletters (women’s) have mentioned sales. Given the strong emphasis on trend and the approach to discounting, ASOS may want to reassess this.

5. MENSWEAR TAKES A BACK SEAT It’s well stocked, but menswear isn’t a major driver of business for ASOS. There were more than three times the number of full price womenswear sell outs in the last month than men’s. Menswear accounts for 38.5 percent of the entire offering but only 23.8 percent of full price sell outs. ASOS is aware that its menswear customer shops differently to its womenswear customer. Because it knows the habits of the womenswear shopper innately – and has an aptitude for building tech to suit the way they shop – ASOS focus its innovation on women.

6. SMART BRAND MIX ASOS’s real trump card is the scale of its own-brand assortment. With petite, tall, plus size and maternity lines, along with premium and reworked vintage, ASOS manages to greatly extend its consumer reach. A third of the assortment is own-brand, with the majority of own-brand falling under the ASOS main collection.

As the branded strategy, has focused on unique product over price point, the private-label business gives ASOS the space to be price competitive. It also showcases the retailer’s understanding of trend and timing. Outside of own-brand, the bestselling brands at ASOS are New Look (which accounts for 1.6 percent of offering), River Island (1.5 percent) Nike (1.2 percent), Boohoo (0.7 percent), French Connection (0.8 percent), Ted Baker (0.4 percent). It would be a good idea for ASOS to extend their French Connection and Ted Baker assortment as they hit the higher price points.

These aren’t the only tricks up ASOS’s sleeves. We’ve not touched upon its successful wedding collection, looked at best-selling categories or discussed its fresh look at activewear. If that’s the kind of data you’d like to check out, you should check out a demo of our software!

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 29

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SOURCE DIRECT FROM CHINA IN SYDNEY Grow your business at the 17th sourcing expo for clothing, textiles, accessories and more. Meet over 500 global suppliers at Australia’s largest combined event.

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32 I

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