Apparel Magazine | August 2018

$ 9.00

AUGUST 2018 I VOL 51 I NO 08

fashionable reads

Rules + Rebels

by Erika Achilles

Rules + Rebels is going to change your business, your thinking, your direction, maybe even change your life.

After decades in the fashion industry, with some great successes and spectacular failures, Erika Achilles blends her personal stories with important business and life lessons she has learned along the way. She believes you can’t confuse bad decisions with bad luck and that success is about trusting your instincts and knowing which rules to follow and which rules to break.

Icons of Style: A century of Fashion Photography

By Paul Martineau

This gorgeous book is an illustrated survey of one hundred years of fashion photography that includes over three hundred photographs, alongside a selection of costumes, fashion illustrations, magazine covers and advertisements. Organized into five chronological chapters, the publication shows the way fashion and fashion photography changed through the years. A delight for every style and art enthusiasts.

Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up

By Claire Wilcox

On her death, Frida Kahlo’s husband, Diego Rivera, decided that his wife’s most private possessions be locked away until 15 years after his death. Opened in 2004, the bathroom that contained her belongings revealed a range of prosthetics, clothes, jewellery and makeup along with some of her self-portraits, diary entries and letters. Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up combines all these elements to build a very intimate portrait of the artist, and a unique window into her life, setting it in the context of her political and social beliefs.

editor ’ s note

WHY INFLUENCERS SHOULD TAKE A BACKSEAT AT FASHION WEEK Every year, it never ceases to amaze me that the front row at New Zealand Fashion Week is filled with people who have no experience, expertise or even a relevant job. Yet, here they are with their 1,000 to 100,000 followers – when we actually need buyers and industry leaders.

We don’t need children who grew up on smartphones with their mates liking their photos. Where’s the international media and buyers? Can we get a little attention down here?

I was overseas, and someone tried to get into a fashion event by squealing: “But I have over a hundred thousand followers!” Short-story-short: they didn’t get in. And damn right. They shouldn’t be let in because their audience are consumers. As a b2b event (side note: influencers don’t even know what b2b stands for), designers are showcasing their AW19 forward season collections. Why? So, buyers can make orders, network and ultimately make money.

The bottom line is, how do influencers bring in money? Their followers and ‘reach’ does not automatically translate into sales. Organic reach doesn’t even exist anymore. You would be better off treating loyal customers who buy your clothing to a show, at least you would get some sales out of it.

This brings me to my second point: consumers are hungry for new. If an influencer is sharing the show live on their Instagram or other social media channels – it is immediately seen by consumers. They see it now; they want it now. So why show them something that is at least six months away? What happens is a consumer, let’s call her Brittany, sees a designer’s show on someone’s Instagram. She says: “Wow, that was great, I want that!” Brittany clicks through to the tag (if you, the designer, are lucky enough to be tagged) from the story, is redirected to the designer’s page and BAM. Disappointed and frustrated, Brittany can not buy the dress she wanted and now has to wait

six months. Two weeks later, she sees a similar dress online and says: “Oh well, good enough.” Now she has the latest fashion and is six months ahead of her time.

Influencers are selling to the right audience at the wrong time. Their audience is immediate, rapidly fluctuates, and then as quickly as it appeared – it’s gone again.

Designers are left in a constant battle fighting consumerism and the urgent need for more.

It’s New Zealand after all; we don’t have giant influencers and superstars. We just have Richie McCaw and Lorde. I look forward to seeing who’s in the front row this month and what they can bring to the table.

*** I saw a fantastic white coat at Kowtow and decided I just had to have it.

Thoroughly enjoying my new Heritage Trench Coat in Ecru Denim, I strolled into Auckland Hospital. While waiting in line for a coffee, I realised I was getting a lot of looks from doctors and nursing staff. Understanding dawned as I realised I looked like a doctor, all I needed was a stethoscope or failing that – a thermometer. I thought that the chances of getting a stethoscope were remote, so I asked a nurse for a thermometer and tucked it into my pocket before going to see my father. He was reading the newspaper and had just got to his favourite part - the crossword. “Caitlan, do you have a pen?”

I pat down my coat in search of a pen and pull out the thermometer, shocked.

“Some asshole stole my pen!” I cry. The whole ward burst out laughing - success my job is done.

Colors in Fashion

By Jonathan Faiers and Mary Westerman Bulgarella This essential reading provides an extensive exploration of the complexity of colour and its fascinating relationship with fashion. Bringing together sixteen different essays from leading scholars, this book explains how colour has a profound cultural, scientific and geopolitical resonance. Divided into four section, Colors in Fashion tells the histories of colours in dress and how consumption and power structures have shaped the way colour is worn and perceived.

CHAIRMAN

Peter Mitchell GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM Raymund Sarmiento PUBLISHER Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Ciaran Carroll ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287 EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand 9 304 0142 CONTENT MANAGERS Caelyn Edson - nzapparel@reviewmags.com +64 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all

Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com

Josephine Adams

Coralie Vissac

EDITORIAL TEAM

enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2018 NZ Apparel Magazine.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I3

fast five

WHEN CREATIVE CONCEPTS COME TO LIFE Southern Institute of Technology (SIT) can help bring creative concepts to life, assisting fashion students with the realities of their future in the fashion industry, as well as nurturing their artistic talents.

No matter which fashion course students choose, they have access to fantastic tutors, industry-standard equipment and software, and can immerse themselves in a supportive, creative environment which will allow them to explore and let their talents blossom. SIT’s fashion courses are designed to ensure graduates are fully prepared to enter employment in this exciting and dynamic field.

At the end of each year, SIT holds a student showcase week involving various events and activities that allow students to present their hard work from throughout the year. One such event is the Chrysalis Fashion Show, where the Bachelor of Fashion (Design and Technology) students present their collections – the result of their blood, sweat and tears, and creations of which they are incredibly proud.

400 COLOURS Established by John Tudehope in 1988 and bought by his son-in-law Gethin Sladen in 2012, Terry Apparel is a family business based on a few simple family values: trust, care, quality and honesty.

Their tight team of six experienced staff is gearing up to launch a new thread by established German manufacturer Gütermann. The Mara is an exciting new innovation and is the first microfilament polyester-based core spun technology offered in New Zealand. The highly resistant thread is wrapped in a resilient microfilament, so there’s no need to fear fuzzy fibres. “It’s the future of the seam,” gushed Terry Apparel managing director,

The New Zealand Diploma in Fashion Design (Level 6) programme offers a Competition paper which involves the students entering the annual Hokonui Fashion Design Awards, held in Gore. A great way to help students experience the realities of being involved in a fashion show and to have their garments ready for the awards deadline, the Hokonui creations are always a highlight.

SIT’s fashion students are also offered the opportunity to travel to Dunedin for iD Dunedin Fashion Week and to Auckland for New Zealand Fashion Week. From the highs of the catwalk, students can gain inspiration for their own designs and with access to fully automatic industrial sewing machines and computer programmes and hardware used for computer-aided pattern-making; students have all the equipment necessary to create real-world projects: making real garments for real people.

For more information, email info@sit.ac.nz or call SIT today at 0800 40 3337.

Gethin Sladen. The company plans to carry an enormous 400 colours so the New Zealand market has the same choice larger countries get.

Despite years of experience, Sladen still considers himself a rookie. “It forces me to adapt to all market changes with the open mind and agility of a newcomer,” he explained. One change he’s been dealing with is the decline in New Zealand manufacturing – but it’s not getting him down.

“You can understand why manufacturing in New Zealand has not been supported in recent years,” Sladen disclosed, referring to the combination of an increase in local manufacturing costs, a shortage in qualified staff, and more competitive shipping rates. The best way to combat this, he thought, was to support

local trade – as individuals, as companies, and perhaps even at a governmental level. Companies can also partner with government agencies like New Zealand Trade and Enterprise to become more attractive to buyers.

“The quality of our services is nonnegotiable,” insists Sladen, whose growth plan is focused around this idea. Terry Apparel has been supplying products throughout New Zealand, Australia and the Pacific Islands with continued growth every year, and plans to maintain this trend. More than that, they plan on expanding laterally. 400 colours of microfilament material is a good start.

For more information visit their new website www.terryapparel.co.nz.

EFFICIENT. SWIFT. COORDINATED. As New Zealand Fashion Week’s longest standing partner, Alert Taxis has worked seamlessly alongside the iconic industry event for 13 years. Alert Taxis are the only vehicles with the necessary clearance to drive directly to the front doors of the ANZ Viaduct Events Centre. Be sure to add them to your speed dial to ensure you stay fashionably dry whatever the weather.

Better yet, the fixed fare booking option online offers a prepaid fixed cost for your journey regardless of traffic conditions.

This option is also ideal as a ‘meet and greet’ at the airport.

Established in 1964, Alert Taxis have succeeded in building a company that remains current, fresh and full of vision.

4 I August 2018

Positioned as the leader of the pack in the industry, Alert Taxis impresses both customers and drivers with xxx state of the art technology and passionate leadership.

As No. 1 in the field of ground transport logistics, let Alert Taxis experienced team make your transport problems disappear. Covering all areas of the Greater Auckland area and catering for singles through to large groups, Alert Taxis is your one stop shop for efficient, affordable and reliable travel.

Call 09 309-2000 to find out how Alert Taxis can be of assistance or to book a prepaid fixed fare, visit www.book. alerttaxis.co.nz/m/booking

FASHION WEEK SHOWS + SESSIONS 2018 MON | 27 AUG 1.00PM - 4.00PM

TUE | 28 AUG 9.30AM

WED | 29 AUG 9.30AM

SATO REGISTRATION DESK VEC

VIP BREAKFAST

M SOCIAL

TO BE ANNOUNCED

6.00PM

11.00AM

11.30AM

MAIN FOYER VEC

OFF SITE

THE RUNWAY

8.30PM

12.30PM

EARLY REGISTRATION

NZFW OFFICIAL OPENING

MERCEDES-BENZ PRESENTS KNUEFERMANN

THE RUNWAY

THE STUDIO THE RUNWAY

TWENTY SEVEN NAMES

NZFW GRADUATE SHOW

THU | 30 AUG 9.00AM

HARRIS TAPPER

OFF SITE/STRICTLY BY INVITATION

11.00AM

TO BE ANNOUNCED

12.00PM

RACHEL MILLS

1.00PM

THE STUDIO

TO BE ANNOUNCED

OFF SITE/STRICTY BY INVITATION

1.30PM

2.00PM

12.30PM

THE RUNWAY

THE RUNWAY

SWIM AND ACTIVEWEAR COLLECTIVE: AURAI, HEAVEN, SALTYSEA

2.30PM

RYAN TURNER CONTEMPORARY SALON

THE STUDIO

NEW GEN SHOW: HAVILAH, LVLD CLOTHING, OLLI, STARVING ARTISTS FUND

3.00PM

HEJ HEJ

OFF SITE

MEADOWLARK

RESENE DESIGNER RUNWAY

THE RUNWAY 2.00PM

NOT FOR YOU CONTEMPORARY SALON

THE STUDIO 3.00PM

4.00PM

NEW GEN EMERGING COUTURE: CECILIA KANG COUTURE, JUDY GAO COUTURE, SRISHTI KAUR DESIGNS, RUSCOE

THE RUNWAY 5.00PM

EDMUND HILLARY

THE STUDIO 6.30PM

HAILWOOD

THE RUNWAY 7.30PM

LELA JACOBS

OFF SITE 7.30PM

PRIVATE SHOW

THE STUDIO

4.00PM

TO BE ANNOUNCED

MIROMODA SHOWCASE

THE RUNWAY 4.30PM

5.00PM

JARRAD GODMAN CONTEMPORARY SALON

THE STUDIO 6.00PM

JOCKEY

THE STUDIO

5.30PM

TO BE ANNOUNCED

KATHRYN WILSON

THE RUNWAY 7.00PM

GEORGIA ALICE

OFF SITE 8.30PM

RESENE DESIGNER RUNWAY PRIVATE SHOW

THE RUNWAY 9.00PM

STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB

OFF SITE

7.00PM

TRELISE COOPER

THE RUNWAY 7.00PM

TRELISE COOPER

THE STUDIO 8.30PM

TRELISE COOPER PRIVATE SHOW

THE RUNWAY 8.30PM

TRELISE COOPER PRIVATE SHOW

THE STUDIO 8.30PM

HUFFER

OFF SITE

FOLLOW US ON   FOR ALL THE ACTION FROM THE RUNWAY.

nzfashionweek.co.nz

LAYBUY SUPPORTS LOCAL FASHION Laybuy is standing behind local Kiwi fashion by being a key sponsor of NZFW and powering one of the most highly anticipated events on the NZFW calendar – the NZ Fashion Weekend’s Designer Pop Up Sale. Laybuy will be available for consumers to buy now and pay later at the designer pop up event – a first for the NZFW calendar and for a local Kiwi event.

Laybuy has hundreds of local apparel and fashion businesses as merchant partners, and as a 100 percent Kiwi-owned and operated business, it’s important they show their support for local fashion.

Laybuy started out as a homegrown startup only a year ago but is a flying success.

Laybuy disrupts the payment model by digitising an old sales technique: buy now, pay later. Companies offering Laybuy to receive payment the following day directly to their accounts and avoid dealing with administration or storage costs associated with the traditional layby model.

They identified a gap in the market for a disruptive payment model for goods and services that could be applied to both in-store and online purchases, and that benefited both consumers and merchants.

Companies currently using Laybuy are seeing a massive proportion of customers opt for the payment service when shopping online.

Laybuy’s large merchants have reported high customer satisfaction with the service. They’ve also noted that customers using Laybuy have higher order values and conversion rates than those using a standard DPS payment type.

While the core target market are millennials, it’s not just young people using Laybuy. Families are a growing segment of the customer database, as shoppers look to spread out costs of holidays and household items.

Using Laybuy allows customers to budget their finances better and avoid large credit cards bills – and the interest that comes with them.

The company has a strong financial services platform and a good credit checking system.

There is a lot of focus on making sure credit limits are responsible and that people are spending within their approved limits.

With many of Laybuy’s current merchant partners such as Superette, Kathryn Wilson, Georgia Alice, Harris Tapper, Stolen Girlfriends, Meadowlark, Twenty Seven Names and many more being part of the fashion week shows, the team are excited to be part of the event and bring the payment product to fashion week attendees.

To join Laybuy as a merchant email merchant@laybuy.com, or visit www.laybuy.com.

GENETICALLY MODIFIED TEXTILES TESTEX has opened a new laboratory for the testing of genetically modified organisms (GMO) in cotton products. “With our new PCR Laboratory we enable our customers to test cotton for genetic modifications; independently and transparently,” explained Dr Andreas Kapaklis, team leader ecology at TESTEX. This DNA analysis allows TESTEX to make a yes or no statement regarding the genetic modifications. “We would like to emphasise that the procedure is applicable to all textiles within the textile value chain, from cotton fields to the store.”

It is crucial for designers to be aware of the textiles they are using as they have a high impact on the procurement (planning, material selection & finishing) and before the collection is even made, they can take the first step towards sustainable fashion. The Made In Green label is for materials tested for harmful substances, made in environmentally friendly facilities with safe and socially responsible workplaces.

MADE IN GREEN by OEKOTEX® is an essential tool for a greener industry. TESTEX and OEKO-TEX® support several design contests across the globe.

For more information about GMO-screening, visit www.testex.com.

IS FASHIONWARE Apparel21 offers an integrated system to manage and interpret data for core business activities to improve efficiencies.

• PLM

• Purchasing

• Point of Sale

• Planning/OTB

• Shipments

• Online Sales

• Production

• Warehouse Management

• Financials

• Wholesale • Retail

• Replenishment

+ 613 8415 9300

6 I August 2018

• Reporting and Analysis

info@apparel21.com

www.apparel21.com

Mara 100 The thread of tomorrow has arrived.

It’s strong.

It’s clean.

It’s brilliant.

Find out more:

terryapparel.co.nz

Mara 400 is a Micro Technology ® thread by

Are you ready to order yours? tel: 09 9661832 apparel@terrys.co.nz

Joining your product. apparelmagazine.co.nz

I7

designer showcase

NOT FOR YOU Designer Jerome Taylor launched Not For You in 2016 and has been featured in every NZFW since.

Only a few short years ago his graduate show had five looks, and now Taylor has represented New Zealand at Vancouver Fashion Week and grown his team to include a stylist, photographer, a graphic designer, and even two mentors – everything a young brand needs to flourish in the spotlight.

The name Not For You was chosen as it represents the customer base. If you’d rather buy a plain white tee down the road for $20, then maybe Taylor’s collection is not for you. There are plenty

JARRAD GODMAN Showcasing the new and improved Jarrad Godman at New Zealand Fashion Week, this season the New Zealand made brand has moved into a new direction. Their forward-season collection Space, Man! was inspired by the collision of underwater and outer space. The collection features custom printed fabrics, billowing silhouettes, and Godman’s take on tailored shirts.

Mixing streetwear and high-end silk dresses, Godman has sprinkled in some of their customer’s favourite pieces from SS18/19 Total Buzzkill which boasts

of people who want it, though.

NZFW has asked the brand back and they couldn’t be happier.

“NZFW has helped us so much over the last two years,” Taylor explained, “and we are so excited to be working with them once again.” They hope the show will give them exposure not only within New Zealand, but also abroad.

This NZFW is Not For You’s third time showing, but its first solo show. It will showcase 32 looks made up of the collection’s 100 garments, all of which promise to bring unique and inspired streetwear to the runway.

its versatility. These pieces will be available in-store and online after the show. “We’ve gone more print heavy this season as well as adding in some amazing outerwear that I am really excited to share,” added Godman. This will be Godman’s third time showing at New Zealand Fashion Week since 2015, however, this is his first solo show. Through showing at New Zealand Fashion Week, Godman hopes to increase his brand’s exposure and clientele, as well as picking up new stockists.

For more information or to become a stockist; call 021 258 5281 or visit www.jarradgodman.com.

#BOTCHEDBYBETH #BotchedByBeth began earlier in the year after Matthew Baitson’s work as a costume designer rapidly became popular among Wellington’s local drag talent. Inspired by Baitson’s drag persona Just Beth, Baitson loves vibrancy, playfulness and colours.

Channelling this perspective into his designs, Baitson’s forwardthinking brand is currently available on ProjectFashionWellington. com. #BotchedByBeth’s latest collection is titled Neapolitan and represents inclusiveness. “I am inspired by the gender fluidity and inclusiveness of Wellington’s drag culture, and the way fashion can be used to blur the lines between masculinity and feminity,” explained Baitson. Last year, Baitson was a finalist in Resene’s Colour of Fashion show at New Zealand Fashion Week. Baitson described the Neapolitan collection he is showcasing at New Zealand Fashion Week as whimsical, playful and relaxed.

“Drag is all about making a statement, and that is what I want to do with Neapolitan.”

Follow the label on Instagram at @BotchedByBeth.

8 I August 2018

AURAI SWIMWEAR Aurai swimwear launched in New Zealand two years ago, and owner and designer Natalia Bertolo is showcasing her third collection at New Zealand Fashion Week for the first time this year.

The origin of the label’s name is from ancient Greek mythology. Aurai were known as winged nymphs who carried messages for the Gods all over the world through the sea.

With a firm belief in sustainable business practices, her collection pays homage to her roots in Brazil.

Bertolo is minimalistic by nature and stepped out of her comfort zone by looking at Copacabana and Brazil’s biggest fashion icon Carmen Miranda for colour inspiration.

As the sole designer, Bertolo describes Aurai as her side project but often calls on her family in New Zealand and in Brazil to help with any loose ends she may have.

Bertolo is proud of her ethical and ecofriendly approach to her business and is starting to introduce the world’s

first biodegradable yarn that rapidly decomposes after disposal. Bertolo also notes her collaboration with Karin Horen to create mastectomyfriendly designs as a highlight of this collection. For more information, visit www.auraiswimwear.com.

OLLI The brand-new label Olli was born at the beginning of 2018, and designer Holly Norman explained that this first year of her business will be dedicated to the development of the brand. Norman started with a strong passion for photography and began creating dramatic garments solely for photographing striking images to observe with no intention to parade around in. Only after the artwork she had created received attention from people asking to purchase the garments did she realise that she has quite an eye for wearable fashion design.

The inspiration for the name Olli is short and sweet – an adaptation of her name, Holly.

Norman describes her label as a one-woman show but is hopeful that she will be able to expand and acquire a small team to work alongside her.

Norman describes her debut New Zealand Fashion collection as a representation of the quirks within her personality. The collection showcases her graceful nature and ability to be bold and delicate.

Norman explored the elegance of pastel colours and believes that more is in fact more.

Using only second-hand materials, Norman admits that it does make the designing process more complex however that it does not deter her, instead it entices her. She believes that the source of the fabric does not compromise the final product.

Norman is excited to be sharing

her interpretation of art to the world and would love to see more people wearing or simply owning her garments. Her hope is to capture attention from a wide audience locally and internationally believes NZFW is a good place to start.

Instagram is a hugely helpful tool for Norman, as she mainly uses it as a platform to sell her garments. Olli does have a website that currently stocks their basics range and is a work in progress to expand for her entire collection to be available for purchase online. For more information, visit www.olli-online.com

Let your business suppliers come to you.

An ASB Visa Business Rewards credit card lets you order online when you want to save time – for whatever’s next.

asb.co.nz/business-rewards ASB’s lending criteria and terms apply.

ASB Bank Limited.

ASB1000222_BusinessSME_PRESS_Fashion_HP_210x150_v1.indd 1

20/07/18 1:28 PM

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I9

CAITLAN CRISP The eponymous label by young Auckland designer was born with big dreams. Crisp started making her own clothes at the young age of 12, and went on to study fashion in Christchurch before making a name for herself as an emerging designer on Instagram. This is her first time showing at New Zealand Fashion Week, and she’s created a very personal collection that Crisp describes as feminine, fun and easy to wear.

Sheer fabrics with a masculine cut turn out a modern and flirtatious look; one that Crisp can’t wait to wear herself. The stand out piece in her collection was the first she started working on and the last she finished.

This dress, shrouded in excesses of fabric, is the designer’s pet project. Crisp’s collection is completely driven by her own ideas. The prospect of putting out a self-titled, self-made collection can be a bit daunting as Crisp is her own designer, marketer, and producer – and she loves every minute of it.

For more information visit www.caitlincrisp.com or @CaitlinCrisp on Instagram.

HUFFER For the last twenty-one years, New Zealand’s most iconic streetwear brands Huffer has been the frontrunner for innovation and style. Founder and Director Steve Dunstan first started designing and selling the garments from the South Island in New Zealand. Initially designed primarily for use in the alpine environment “born in the hills and praised in the street” the brand has now firmly planted its feet in streetwear.

Huffer has a team of designers for menswear, womenswear, and their outerwear collection. Dunstan explains that the team are incredibly diverse and are the essence and culture of the brand. “We really do live and breathe the brand”. Dunstan describes the work ethic and undying support from all corners of the brand as the extra step they all take that make it worthwhile.

Firmly settled in the industry, Huffer has seven storefronts in New Zealand, three in Australia and is

SRISHTI KAUR DESIGNS Emerging New Zealand couture label Srishti Kaur Designs was founded in 2015 with an aim to create unique and beautifully handcrafted pieces. Meticulously handcrafting each bespoke bridal and evening couture gown, the brand developed from founder and designer Srishti Kaur’s passion for gowns. “When I started looking into the market, I realised not a lot of people offered a high-end bespoke service for evening gowns,” explained Kaur. “So I tested the market for the first year by offering the service through social media which was well received and slowly entered the bridal market thereafter.”

Since establishing her style and niche in an extravagant show at Vancouver Fashion Week last September, Kaur’s stunning designs have been widely appreciated across the globe. Kaur predominantly makes bespoke garments, which can be found on her website or her social media channels.

Ethereal Ecstasy is the collection Kaur is showcasing at New Zealand Fashion Week as

10 I August 2018

part of the New Generation show. Inspired by the idea of eternal love, this collection explores the emotional trance-like state where one transforms itself into a new realm of beauty. As Kaur’s first time showcasing at New Zealand Fashion Week, each piece balance simple silhouettes with immaculate fabrics sourced from Asia. “There are plunging necklines, capes and illusion driven appliqued hand embroidery to reach a euphoric level of beauty, elegance and drama.” Through showcasing her designs at New Zealand Fashion Week, Kaur hopes to gain industry attention and expand her market and clientele.

For more information visit www.srishtikaurdesigns.com.

stocked in over one hundred and fifty wholesalers across Australasia.

After seventeen consecutive showcases at NZFW, Huffer will continue to celebrate the brand’s cultural pillars of fashion, art, community, and music for the eighteenth show. Launching their A/W19 collection, onlookers should expect to experience a large focus on outerwear and vibrant colours.

The team at Huffer are particularly excited for this year’s Fashion Week as they will celebrate their twentyfirst birthday, at which time they will announce their partnership with the Mental Health Foundation. The team at Huffer want to emphasize the importance of mental well-being and suicide prevention. To mark the special partnership, they have designed a limited range of beanies and tee-shirts that are available to purchase after the show. All proceeds will be donated to the foundation, for information visit www.huffer.co.nz

NICHOLA Nichola Contemporary Maori Designs from Aotearoa launched mid-September 2016 as a rebrand previously known as NTK made, in operation since 2011.

Wanting to be a little like Madonna and Cher, having just a single name, Nichola was created.

The label was born out of a passion to share stories and korero, to experiment, push creative boundaries and explore materials and mediums. Nichola Te Kiri is the lead designer of the company’s small whanau and friends based team, and subcontracts out to others.

Creators of contemporary Maori whakakai (jewellery), kakahu (clothing) and nga rama (lamps); Nichola’s collection is stocked in several outlets throughout Aotearoa as well as their online store.

The collection being displayed at New Zealand Fashion Week is Nichola’s M+H (Mahuika + Hinepukohurangi) and is their avant-garde collection debut.

A celebration of wahine, the assemblage is based around synergy, contrasts, and drama.

Te Kiri added the highlight of showing at NZFW is purely being part of the biggest fashion event in Aotearoa. She acknowledged the honour and privilege she feels to be included in the Miromoda show, alongside other talented Maori designers.

As Nichola’s second year displaying at NZFW in the Miromoda show, this year was a little more special to the young brand as they placed first equal in the Avant-Garde section.

Aiming to cement the Nichola brand into the world of avant-garde fashion, this year they are showing skills and love for creating statement pieces that are unique and limited in number. For more information, visit www.nichola.co.nz.

CECILIA KANG Self-taught designer Cecilia Kang is a self-made fashionista, and one to watch at New Zealand Fashion Week. Her high-end vision got its start in 2015 when she launched her eponymous brand. Naming the brand after her given name was a symbolic act of selfcelebration. It shows her as a powerful individual celebrating her place in the world; something she hopes to inspire others to do.

She quickly got involved in designing garments for the pageant scene, where her love for sequins, satin and strong silhouettes took off. This is her first year showing at NZFW, and her nature-inspired collection is called Goddess in Garlands, A highlight piece is a black lace evening gown with statement bell sleeves and floral patterns - it’s dark forest-inspired.

She creates each one-of-a-kind piece herself, from beginning to end. Though it’s tiring work, it’s rewarding and she hopes to have her garments stocked in available stores in New Zealand and overseas soon. She considers showing at NZFW a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to both showcase her skills and also her success as a young, thriving trans person.

Photographer: Patric Seng @patricseng.photographer Makeup & hair: Carron Wells @facememakeupandhairnz Model: Grace Haselden @bintangmodels Designer: Cecilia Kang @ceciliakangcouture

Need staff?

Full time, part time or short term...

We have graduates available

www.sewtec.ac.nz (09) 250-1515

NEW SEASON IN STORE NOW

contact: amanda@internationalfashiongroup.com.au

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 11

HAVILAH

WILLIAM ROPER A newly established brand named after the designer himself, William Roper will launch his first collection at New Zealand Fashion Week. Roper, who is fresh out of Ara Institute has always wanted to own his own business and believes now is as good a time as any to begin.

Still in the early stages of the pre-launch, he relies on himself and the empty space in his mum’s garage to bring his designs to fruition.

Roper is hoping this collection will be stocked in stores around New Zealand by 2019 and is working on building the website.

Showcasing part of his graduate collection, Roper explained that the original and the adapted collection was heavily influenced by the Ancient Chinese expressions ‘under the heavens’ and ‘I Ching’. Summing up the inspiration for his designs, Roper reveals that it reflects dichotomies. Using examples of theoretical physics and philosophies to display two contrasting parts. Using tailoring and drape, Roper believes this represents the dichotomy that makes the two-contrasting whole.

The young designer highlights one of his favourite designs as the zero-waste reversible jacket that is printed on one side, allowing you to decide how to wear it.

After being asked to participate by the Head of Department at Ara Institute, he felt that it would offer great exposure for his brand and is “super excited to be a part of the graduate show.”

Retail Design

Full design service for your retail store, including showroom or commercial interior spaces.

Self-titled label Havilah launched only months ago after being approached on numerous occasions throughout her schooling to fulfil custom orders, when Havilah finally decided to design a capsule collection to debut at New Zealand Fashion Week.

Havilah is currently the sole designer and seamstress, however, she is hopeful she will be able to expand in the coming year.

The label is currently stocked online via her website and she is working on having stockists in Auckland and Wellington.

The designer has titled this collection ‘Unapologetic’ and describes it as “pushing the boundaries on what was once feminine”. Havilah wants the collection to turn heads and inspire empowerment through the creative process.

Havilah has worked behind the scenes at NZFW for several years, starting out as a volunteer dresser and more recently a production assistant. Throughout the years, she describes the constant support towards her label and studies as one of the main reasons for her involvement at Fashion Week.

At as young as 14 years old, she was showcasing single pieces at NZFW. However, she is most known for the hand-knitted ball gown made completely out of plastic bags. After receiving an immense amount of support from buyers and clients at fashion shows in Wellington, Havilah thought launching her first whole capsule collection at NZFW would be the perfect opportunity to reach out to local and international buyers and media. For more information visit www.havilahlabel.com

Retail Fitout

From start to finish we have your retail interior project covered. Services include project management, manufacture, construction and installation.

Shop online, call us or visit our showroom weekdays 9am - 4.30pm. 7 Moa Street Otahuhu Auckland Phone: 0800 474 358 Email: sales@surestyle.co.nz

12 I August 2018

Retail Display

We are the leading supplier for retail displays including garment racks, hangers mannequins, slatpanel…. and much more!

surestyle.co.nz

Apparel Accessories Textiles

Tues 20 — Thurs 22 November 2018 Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre

700 quality textile, apparel & footwear manufacturers 16 different countries 3 days of global sourcing in Melbourne

REGISTER FREE internationalsourcingexpo.com Co located with

Partners

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 13

MAGGIE MARILYN Twenty-four-year-old Maggie Hewitt hails from Kerikeri in the Bay of Islands and describes herself as a country girl at heart. At 17, she moved to Auckland to study at a BFA majoring in Fashion at Whitecliffe, but her fashion journey started at 13 when she was at boarding school. “I was extremely homesick; almost every day after school I would walk to the newsstand and buy a fashion magazine whether it was Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, or Glamour,” explained Hewitt. “Reading these magazines was an amazing escape for me.

This was when my true love affair with fashion and luxury fashion houses started.” The summer before her degree started, Hewitt taught herself how to sew and made a t-shirt. “My parents would have been shaking their heads, but they made me believe I could do anything.” Coming from an entrepreneurial family, Hewitt had a lot of business advice and support from her father.

She added that she was lucky enough to have friends and family around her that believed in her so much. “That gave me the confidence to start it.” Hewitt always knew she wanted to do something creative and was quickly consumed by the fashion world and the dream. “I always knew I wanted to be a designer.”

Hewitt’s designs are never something super literal; she starts with a film that inspired her or an artist. “For me, it’s always designing for the girl, and what she wants and what she needs in her everyday life.” She is inspired by who she aspires to be paired with a sense of lightness and optimism. Through her designs, she wants to empower customers and let them know they can go out and change the world.

An enormous part of the brand is their ethical and sustainable mission. Manufacturing in New Zealand is essential to Hewitt. The only exception being their knitwear made in Italy.

“I knew I wanted to be an international brand,

14 I August 2018

but I love New Zealand, and it is such an important part of who I am and the DNA of the brand.” Hewitt’s next dream is to have bases all around the globe, but until then New Zealand is home. “There are definitely pros and cons to being so isolated, but I am determined to make it work.” Being an international brand and a proud New Zealander go hand in hand for Hewitt. She knew if she was going to be a big international brand that she wanted to be, she had to contribute something to the community she lived in. In the late 1980s, the manufacturing community in New Zealand almost completely vanished. “We used to have big brands like Levi’s made in New Zealand, and that was a really prosperous industry for the country,” she said. “Those makers still live and work in New Zealand, and we are dedicated to continuing working with them.”

Her most significant accomplishment to date was being picked up by Saks Fifth Avenue, as well as many incredible milestones along the way. Social media has been a massive tool regarding connecting and reaching a wider audience. It has allowed Hewitt and her team to get to know the people who love the brand on a personal level. “And that’s so valuable for brands like us who don’t get to see our customers every day.”

Describing her style as a love affair with colour,w Hewitt’s style is never too dainty or pretty but designed with strong femininity.

Hewitt advises other young designers looking to pursue their dreams to follow your gut. “It is always right,” she said.

“There are a lot of people who will want to have an opinion, after all, we are in a creative industry – but stay true to yourself and follow your gut.”

colour trending

Bishop sleeves have been used intermittently since the 6th century. Popular in the romantic 30s and hippie 60s, designers Dame Mary Quant and Andre Courreges gave new life to the historic puffy sleeve and created something that would continually reinvent itself. You can be sure that you’ll find an adapted version of the bishop sleeve in nearly every woman’s closet. Unlike when the trend first came about 15 centuries ago, today we see loose draped sleeves with the tight-fitting cuff.

CHANEL COUTURE Resene Space Station

VALENTINO Resene Headlights

ULYANA SERGEENKO Resene Half Grey Chateau

16 I August 2018

SCHIAPARELLI COUTURE Resene Irresistible

Pierpaolo Piccioli had a vision for this season. Drawing inspiration from yet another gothic era, he transformed this vision into a bright tale of wild and wacky, yet wearable art. Piccioli modernised a classic bishop sleeve and neckline but stayed true to the form of the shape and fullness of the garment in a colour similar to Resene Headlights.

The house of Valentino stretched our imagination further than we ever thought it would go with their use of silk and satins, sequins.

Alexis Mabille interpreted the bishop sleeve in a way different to most. Their use of a fresh Chantilly colour palette and layered drapery created soft, ready-to-wear pieces.

Mabille, who is known for his revolutionary work in the men’s department for Dior and Yves Saint Laurent, has been a constant reminder that old school is new school. In a similar hue to Resene Double Alabaster you’ll see the model gliding down the runway in an angelic manner draped in heavenly off-white billowing sleeves. The Couture Fall 2018 collection in true form includes long gowns and tuxedos with earthy wearable tones.

Suited and booted – Armani Prive kept it classic with GIORGIO tailored suit jackets in various dark hues similar to Resene ARMANI Nero. Bond and Beyond seems to be the trend this season Resene for Armani as they experimented in familiar territory with Nero tailoring and gowns suited for the red carpet.

The Couture Fall 2018 collection appeared to be cast in black and black only until they began the next half of the show, stunning on-lookers with vibrant pinks and lively hues of turquoise. The abrupt contrast between the sleek tailored suits and whimsical colour palette was the talking point of the show. The use of

nstead of the historical variations of brown and dense fabric, Jean Paul Gaultier, in a similar hue to Resene Double Resolution Blue, used light and bright chiffon with a striking black contrast along the plunging neckline and cuffs. Gaultier’s 2018 Fall Couture was tailored and gender neutral with suit jackets and trousers, and bold organza dresses.

The team at Jean Paul Gaultier accessorised their models with gothic statement jewellery pieces that played well into the grunge trend.

Valentino went bold. The ready-to-wear collection offered a rainbow coloured array of silhouettes that can only make your head spin in awe of the fearlessness that this collection exudes.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Resene Double Resolution Blue

satin lapels and delicate fabrics added a certain softness to the otherwise quite strong cut masculine design of the suits.

Cinderella and the Pope made a noteworthy appearance at Ulyana Sergeenko’s Fall Haute Couture 2018 show this year. In a hue similar to Resene Half Grey Chateau, the designer came up with an unusual answer to this year’s bishop sleeve trend. The model graced the runway in a layered organza gown with ballooning sleeve. The rest of the collection was slightly more suitable for work and included a pastel pink fluffy knit with a billowing sleeve.

Sergeenko used bright colours with cool tones in keeping with her fifties Victorian themed capsule collection. Skirt suits, day dresses, and car coats told a tail of a classic era in fashion. The use of soft and hard material gave the collection vibrancy and relevance to fashion today.

Stephane Rolland Couture Fall 2018 exudes theatrical over-the-top pieces that inspire futuristic thinking. Rolland showcased billowing sleeves, gowns with trains and a tuxedo coat dress in a tonal nude and camel colour palette in a hue similar to Resene Triple Canterbury Clay.

Known for his voluminous frocks, the designer tamed his aesthetic everso-slightly this season and included a bright red puffy long sleeve gown.

Designer Stephane Rolland debuted eight varying bishop sleeves from very dramatic to wearable interpretations of the trend.

House of Schiaparelli had only one thing on their minds when curating this fall’s collection: flamboyancy. Drawing inspiration from founder Elsa Schiaparelli, Bertrand Guyon designed silhouettes from every colour palette to portray Elsa’s life and personality.

Bishop sleeves are a staple in this collection, but the talk of the town

ALEXIS MABILLE Resene Double Alabaster

is the scintillating pink similar to Resene Irresistible opera coat in silk that included an insect head piece to match. Bright colours and bold animal prints adorned the runway fulfilling the dreams of STHEPHANE maximalists with this ROLLAND aesthetic.

Resene Triple Tweed and plaid mad. Chanel’s Cantebury Clay Karl Lagerfield designed a refined “high profile” collection for Fall 2018. Lagerfield used chiffon to cut the masculinity of the capsule including the timeless bishop sleeve. He used 50 shades of grey with the occasional insertion of colour to add softness. Focused on versatility of the garments, Lagerfeld explains the refinement and detail that has gone into the creation of this line. Full and half bishop sleeves made an appearance in a very classic rendition of Haute Couture. In a hue similar to metallic Resene Space Station, he accessorised the ballooning sleeves with sequins and chiffon to reinvent this classic design.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 17

radar

New Zealand Made ANYONE’S DAUGHTER Anyone’s Daughter began as one of Tauranga’s bestkept secrets, but 12 years on it has a loyal following in the rest of New Zealand and beyond. Designer Erika Achilles-Dunseath was born and raised in the coastal town, but embraced the world of fashion fast and hard. After graduating from both Bay of Plenty Polytechnic and Otago Polytechnic, she worked for some of New Zealand’s biggest fashion names, such as Annah Stretton and Moochi. It wasn’t until she started a family that she jumpstarted her own clothing empire, and in 2006 Anyone’s Daughter was born, both a label and a retail clothing gallery.

Achilles-Dunseath has 14 contractors, mostly based

out of Tauranga. She values local business, and isn’t threatened by overseas competition. “We could never compete with something made offshore, but I’m not sure I want to. I’m proud I’ve created local jobs and we make a quality product that people love.”

Their latest collection is Whole Lotta Love, designed with travel in mind. Achilles-Dunseath knew she’d be wearing it while travelling between Los Angeles and New York. The reasonably-priced collection consists of uncomplicated layering and edgy designs, something she calls “femininity with a streetwise attitude”.

Achilles-Dunseath is also a published author, with her first book Rules + Rebels available for those wanting to learn more about her “too cool to care” attitude.

VELVET HEARTBEAT Suzie Eggleton grew up in Long Bay, Auckland, but yearned for an edgier life outside of suburbia. Always keeping busy, she toyed with jewellery making, sewing, and other crafts until finally pursuing fashion at a tertiary level.

She studied at New Zealand Fashion Tech before interning and working for a vast range of labels. Eggleton worked as a contract machinist for bridal, high fashion, and film costumes before starting her own label, giving her a uniquely broad set of skills.

Eggleton’s strong ethical mores drive her production choices and inspire the future of Velvet Heartbeat. “I had to go beyond beautiful designs and quality manufacturing and ensure that my products do no harm,” she insisted. She started by providing cruelty-free alternatives to leather accessories, then quickly expanded into utilising industry surplus materials that could end up in landfill. She’s currently her own manufacturer - and intends on keeping it that way - but has a project in the works with an organisation

LISSY CLOTHING Melissa Heffernan has twin passions - fashion and health. She was a globetrotting nurse for 16 years before entwining her passions into one: Lissy Clothing. Heffernan found that the market lacked stylish and fun clothing made with skin protection in mind. “New Zealand has the world’s highest rate of melanoma.

I’ve made it the company’s mission to help reduce this rate,” explained Heffernan.

Heffernan’s collection embodies the medical “first, do no harm” ethos. It isn’t just designed to shade the skin; the garments actually guarantee UPF 50+ sun protection.

Based in Auckland, Heffernan lacks any formal fashion training, but with a focus on functional kimonos

18 I August 2018

and sundresses the collection pulls off a practical, pretty feel. There’s intense detail in every garment, and each fabric is chosen specifically for purpose - Lissy Clothing uses Italian made fabric manufactured from 100 percent recycled materials. The fabric is also unique in that it provides protection from 98 percent of UVA and UVB rays. It’s all cut together to last and look good for years in the sun.

Customers are loving local-made at the moment. Fast fashion isn’t as appealing to consumers as it once was, and consumers are enjoying buying a select few pieces that will last them years. By adding an additional NZ-specific health purpose to every garment, Lissy Clothing is doing wonders for the Kiwi consumer.

that employs survivors of sex trafficking. Her motto is “choose nice”; this is also the name of her ethical fashion zine.

Being New Zealand made is a badge she wears proudly. “It’s not that you can’t get things made ethically in overseas factories, but we have a resource of incredible talent in this country.” On an international scale, Eggleton is excited about the global shift in awareness of fashion ethics. “I don’t think anyone is callously choosing fashion that is unethical, we just haven’t known to ask brands for transparency until recently.”

Velvet Heartbeat is approaching its first birthday, and is already making a name for itself:.“People have fallen in love with the Chloë bags, which are the round canteen style bags, currently available in six colour options of luxurious faux leather.” The Chloë is an adaptable accessory that goes with anyone’s style and satisfies anyone’s ethics - what more could you ask for?

ROBYN REYNOLDS Robyn Reynolds was born and raised in Hamilton, and didn’t think twice about fashion until she found herself living in heady mid-eighties London.

“The clothing stalls at markets ignited something in me,” she recalled.

When she came back to New Zealand she started a stall just like those that had inspired her, and was soon starting her own clothing label in Wellington. Although she had years of industry expertise, at the age of 40 she finally enrolled in the Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology and completed a threeyear fashion and textiles degree.

She has a tight team of six behind her; all part of her plan to increase the number of stockists of the brand which she hopes will allow her to eventually step away and

take a much-needed holiday. Her forward-thinking self-care is echoed in the longevity of her garments, all of which are designed to be classic and hardwearing; an antidote to NZ’s current fast fashion problem.

Reynolds employs local Nelson cutters and machinists, and knows everyone personally. The garments contain a sense of herself, so being involved right through inception to pressing and hanging on the rack is vital. Making sure garments fit correctly is her personal bugbear. “If it’s not right, I will fit at no extra charge.”

Reynolds’ latest collection is stocked on Cuba Street, where she got her start in the fashion industry 20 years ago. A highlight is the Boxer jeans, so named for her favourite ‘80s London ska band. The collection is aptly titled Full Circle.

KILT In 2000, KILT founder Melissa Williams saw a patriotic gap in the market – clothing made by Kiwi women, for Kiwi women. Williams was tired of having to tell women where they could get their overseas garments tailored so that they would fit them perfectly, and set out to solve the problem. Today KILT has 11 women in the design room and more in their own manufacturing company, all working to produce a new piece of clothing every week; each with the New Zealand woman’s figure in mind.

Local business is everything to KILT. Katie Mossop, their design room manager, insisted that being New Zealand made is such a huge part of KILT and they would never think to take it offshore. “We want to make women feel amazing,” added Mossop. “This is in both product and retail experience.” Mossop oversees the talented set of designers as they do all

their own flat pattern drafting, draping, constructing, and testing.

Designer Brea Pothan made dresses for her friends and family before working as KILT’s designer. By working in-house, Pothan has utilised all of the skills she gained at university. “I’ve learned how to apply this to the real world,” said Pothan. “I have been with KILT for over three years and am very lucky to be in my hometown doing something I love, with the best team.”

Over 18 years, KILT has built a loyal customer base and pushed for sustainability in the industry alongside championing homegrown processes.

The finished result is a high-quality but affordable range, tailored perfectly to the Kiwi woman’s figure and moral compass.

KILT doesn’t do collections, but instead has trans-seasonal pieces with weekly new releases for customers to always have something new and exciting.

For more information visit www.kiltonline.co.nz.

STUDY

FASHION

@SIT

ENROL NOW AND LAUNCH YOUR FUTURE New Zealand Certificate in Fashion (Level 4) New Zealand Diploma in Fashion (Level 5) New Zealand Diploma in Fashion Design (Level 6) Bachelor of Fashion (Design and Technology) (Level 7) Graduate Diploma in Fashion (Design and Technology) (Level 7)

Call today or email info@sit.ac.nz 0800 4 0 FEES www.sit.ac.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 19

CUPBOARD OF PANDAS Anna Bailey spent 14 years in the manufacturing industry directing operations all over Australasia, but after taking a break to have two children she wanted a fresh start. She brings her years of manufacturing savvy to Cupboard of Pandas, a collection based on sustainability and minimalism.

Bailey describes her garments as utilitarian yet beautiful and before anything, kind to the environment. She has no formal training in fashion, but her background in manufacturing has given her connections with the best in the industry, and a clear vision for organic streetwear guided her along the way.

All Bailey’s fabric is sourced from Australia, so it’s guaranteed certified organic and fairtrade. The clothing is manufactured in Auckland by Seabreeze Apparel. “It’s probably the

WHITE CHALK White Chalk designer, Hayley Rhind, has not always dreamt of being a fashion designer. She graduated University with an Agribusiness diploma and now owns a farm in the South Island.

She even qualifies her introduction to fashion as an “accident”. “My sister in law and brother lived in Vietnam at the time, so I asked if I stretched some designs if she could get them made. A few weeks later a big box arrived full of beautiful clothes and my friends wanted pieces made,” she says “This is how it all started.”

Even with no training in fashion, Rhind is a confident designer who loves bold colours and prints. Her background in environment-based activities is undoubtedly an inspiration for her designs. “Mother Nature, she is amazing, ever-changing and makes my creative juices

most expensive way to make a t-shirt,” she explained.

“But organic, fairtrade and NZ made is what I’m all about.”

Bailey’s mission goes further than sustainable products. She also values the people she works with. That’s why everything is made locally; to support New Zealand’s economy and sustain local employment. “All the suppliers I have added to my site are lovely people creating something beautiful, and I want to support them,” she gushed.

Cupboard of Pandas launched in February this year and is all about comfort and streetwear. Bailey is inspired by Bassike and Ragdoll LA - minimalist items with a vintage feel - and wants customers to be able to wear the collection day or night.

run wild,” says the nature passionate, and would love to be able to use the Merino Wool from her farm in her future garments.

As a proud supporter of the made in New Zealand movement, her garments are made in a Marlborough located factory which allows her to visit the manufacturer any time she desires.

Behind the three-year-old label is a team composed of seven people, with Rhind as the only designer. One of her brand’s plans is to be able to have a small design team, in order to bring in some new energy and different ideas.

“It is draining being the only energy source for all the designs. I dream of having a small design team where we get together and bounce ideas off each other and eat cupcakes,” says the designer.

NISA Nisa is an underwear label that provides former refugees with interesting and meaningful employment.

The brand’s founder is Elisha Watson. She studied Law and worked as a lawyer until she quit her job to launch Nisa in September 2017.

With the help of her four employees and co-founder, she manufactures all of her garments in her studio in Wellington, which gives her complete control over the production and the freedom to come up with new ideas more often.

The label does not believe in trends and designs for its customers. “Our customers will buy our underwear once because they believe in what we do, but that to get loyal customers we have to make an amazing product,” Watson said.

20 I August 2018

“We don’t work seasonally; we add things to our collection as the inspiration comes and when we get new and exciting colours in.”

For Watson, comfort is key. Therefore, every product is thought through, made simple and practical and mainly composed of organic cotton.

After the launch of their online store in February, Nisa organised a pop-up store in Wellington last July, which resulted in selling out their entire stock. The brand is working on restocking in order to be able to have popups in Auckland and hopes to employ more women from refugee backgrounds in the near future.

If you want to give in to the temptation of treating yourself with a new set of ethically produced underwear, Watson recommends the Alana bralette for its comfort and feminine design.

beauty spot

NEAT

tidy – straightforward and transparent.

Packer knows her brand is more than a flash-inthe-pan hot product. Consumers are increasingly investing in beauty products that improve their health instead of just masking it. Neat knows that value may be important, but so are values. That’s why their high-integrity range is cruelty-free and sustainable as well as being affordable. Packer believes there doesn’t have to be a high price to pay for quality and good conscience; people can have the best of both worlds.

Packer’s 100 percent natural products are all developed, distributed, and used by the founder herself, and are all reasonably priced so that no-one misses out on unadulterated beauty. The range is constantly expanding: there’s an ever-changing array of perfumes and Packer is always on the lookout for a gap in the natural beauty market.

For more information or to learn about becoming a stockist, visit www.itsneat.nz.

Abby Packer’s natural beauty line began in 2016 with two small perfumes designed to ease her mother’s health. Since then Neat has expanded into a range of ten exceptional products, all funky and fresh so keeping your routine no-fuss can be fun.

The range includes a popular almond and jojoba shaving oil, a magnesium-based sports recovery spray, and a line of odourless nail polishes. It’s clear that every product is designed by Packer in response to a very particular problem, as she delights in creating the perfect solution; there’s nothing that brings her more joy than hearing from a satisfied customer.

Every ingredient Neat put into a product has a function. If it doesn’t do anything, it’s not going in the bottle. Every drop of product is intentional. That’s why the line is called Neat: like a good whiskey, nothing is added to water it down or reduce the purity. It’s also neat as in

AKARI Founded last year by Julie Landon and Kristina Rarere, Akari is a beauty brand that aims to make skin feel good, not just look it. Named for the Rarotongan word for coconut, the brand uses the famously soothing oil to bring the healing powers of the Pacific to customers across New Zealand, Australia, and Rarotonga.

The two founders worked for five years researching, developing, and trialing Pacific-inspired products to create products that are of therapeutic benefit as well as improving the look and feel of customers’ skin.

Longtime friends Landon and Rarere started their skincare journey after successfully creating a hypoallergenic and fragrant insect repellent – not an easy task. It comes as a cream and doubles as a moisturizer and worked so well that the duo still offers it today.

Akari boasts a small but indulgent range of eight effective products, all of which are tailored perfectly to their purpose. The shampoo and conditioner duo are filled with rosemary oil and pro vitamin B5 to strip sebum build up in the hair alongside improving the condition of irritated, flaky scalps.

The Himalayan Salt and Grapefruit Body Scrub helps with lymphatic drainage and gently polishes skin,

HAIR IS THE HERO Ten award-winning HITO hairdressing apprentices will curate hair for a show designed to highlight the important role hair stylists play in the world of fashion. This show takes you behind the scenes to shine a light on the creative contribution that hairstylists bring to fashion and how they became qualified to do it.

Apprentices will showcase their work on models dressed in garments provided by fashion collective Public Library who work with a range of national and international brands such as Deadly Ponies, Stolen Girlfriends Club and Tsubi.

Co-owner of the award-winning salon Buoy, Michael Beel, is the MC and mentor of HITO’s runway show Hair Is the Hero. Beel has trained many HITO apprentices over the years at his salon in Wellington and is curating the hair for several shows throughout New Zealand Fashion Week. Many of the apprentices will also be working during the week on shows curated by Beel and other NZFW veterans such as internationally acclaimed stylist Richard Kavanagh.

22 I August 2018

and the famous Audrey’s Skin Repair Serum is packed with Black Cumin Seed and Sea Buckthorn to aid in reducing burning sensations and scarring.

The Serum is named for Julie’s sister, who came to the duo when the radiation treatment for her breast cancer damaged her skin. The Serum was created to alleviate burning and redness and worked so well it’s now used by other patients undergoing the treatment. It’s available as a daily treatment for the face and body – for anyone.

Akari is a brand rooted in therapeutic benefits and aims to provide spa-quality lushness while helping customers eliminate man-made chemicals from their daily lives.

All products are sulphate and paraben free, vegan friendly, and packaged with recyclable materials.

Landon and Rarere develop, produce, and distribute the range themselves. They’re personally invested in the quality and efficacy of their products and hope to keep improving the lives of the sensitive-skinned with future lines.

For more information or to learn about becoming an Akari stockist, contact Julie and Kristina at info@akari.co.nz.

Hair Is the Hero showcases a range of diverse talent from HITO’s apprentices who have developed their own hair designs and concepts, and Beel will oversee the looks to ensure they are cohesive. One to watch is Andrew Cobeldick who was awarded L’Oréal Professional Stylist of the Year at The Collective.

Cobeldick’s accomplishments continue to pile up as he impresses the world with his creations and personal brand _filthymisfit .

The advantage of getting qualified through a HITO apprenticeship is that you can start at any time, and you get paid to do it. For hair and barbering, 90 percent of the training is done on the job, with a few block courses completed out of the work-space to cover theoretical aspects of the qualification. For beauty apprenticeships, 100 percent of their training is done in-salon and on the job.

HITO apprentices get the advantage of putting everything they learn into practice immediately, building up confidence, clients, and earning money while they learn. For more information visit www.hito.org.nz.

Be someone in your Industry

Get qualified.

Andrew Cobeldick, Professional Hairstylist 100% Qualified through a HITO apprenticeship 2018 L’Oreal New Zealand Professional Stylist of the Year

Start today Apprenticeships in hair, beauty and barbering available. Contact us now.

04 499 1180

support@hito.org.nz

www.hito.org.nz

NZ HAIR AND BEAUTY INDUSTRY TRAINING ORGANISATION

fashionable films

MAMA MIA: HERE WE GO AGAIN

THE SPY WHO DUMPED ME Audrey and Morgan become involved in an international conspiracy after one of them finds out her ex-boyfriend was a spy. This action filled movie gives us an out-of-the-ordinary fashion display for a female dominant cast. The character of Audrey is repeatedly shown wearing a collection of Hawaiian shirts featuring parrots, leaves and surf-inspired prints, paired with loose fitting beige pants or jeans.

The overall relaxed and masculine look that emanates from the movie is emphasised by the apparition of a 1920s menswear-inspired look worn by Morgan at the beginning of the film. Alex Bovaird, the wardrobe designer, successfully translated the character’s vivacity and intense personality into their clothes by playing with patterns, colours and shapes.

The costume highlight, however, remains the women’s matching evening outfits, featuring a figure revealing sequin covered suit ensemble and a mini dress.

The sequel of Mamma Mia goes back through Donna’s life and every achievement she made. Going back and forth in time, the costumes were a tool to help position the characters in a particular period. Costume designer Michele Clapton clearly showed us her passion for the 70s fashion through the use of gold and silver accessories, bell-bottom denim pants embellished with ruffles and striped overalls.

The lighthearted, joyful and music filled atmosphere is accentuated with the use of bright colours and patterns as well as the adoption of lightweight and see-through fabrics that directly generates a hippie-like ambience and holiday feel.

MISSION IMPOSSIBLE: FALLOUT The Mission Impossible series has come back this year to delight its fans with some serious plot twists and action. Ethan Hunt (Tom Cruise) is on a new mission to prevent the world from a major nuclear attack, takes us to Berlin, Paris, London and Kashmir where he once again shows us his exceptional fighting and driving skills.

Costume designer Jeffrey Kurland had the responsibility to dress the characters in accordance with their hectic lifestyle and personalities. Military wear was with no doubt this movie’s biggest inspiration with a range of functional jackets, army overalls and khaki and brown being the predominant colour in the men’s wardrobe. Contrasting with the abundance of suits and army inspired clothes was the character of Luther, who gave us some serious 1920s vibes with his colourful polo shirts and straw hats. With a male dominant cast, female characters only made short appearances on screen. However it didn’t stop them from making some superb fashion statements, especially the White Widow’s first scene where she is pictured in a glamorous and sexy ivory ensemble.

Call us now for a FREE one hour consultation.*

3 tips to improve your wifi

Ph: 09 571 9959 www.latitudesolutions.co.nz

1. Use a device that is fit for purpose (not a home device).

2. Separate business traffic from personal devices and streamline priority applications so they get the best service and bandwidth.

3. Call us for a free assessment.

we simplify it! * Terms & Conditions apply.

24 I August 2018

Latitude Solutions advt.indd 1

25/07/18 9:27 AM

Pura Bamboo Pura Cotton Stretch Velvet Sheer Fabrics

STRETCH IS THE NEW BLACK

Sublimation Printing Italian Fashion Fabrics Athfashion Performance View our catalogue now:

Knitted Stretch Fabrics | High Quality | Easy Care | Comfortable | Stylish

eclipsetextiles.com.au/blog/stretch-is-the-new-black | eclipse@eclipsetextiles.com.au Brisbane Head Office +61 7 3251 2970 | Auckland Display Location 0508 88 44 11 apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 25

accessory alert

SOME Family owned and operated jewellery and accessory label some has recently launched out of their design workshop in Wellington, New Zealand.

Some will debut at the 2018 Auckland Spring Gift Fair, where buyers will be able to get their hands on beautifully designed and made in New Zealand jewellery and accessories.

Inspiration for the brand’s quirky name comes from pieces in the collection: some jewellery, some bags and some scarves.

The design team at some describe the label as youthful and trend driven to appeal to the millennial demographic.

While creating authentic and unique pieces some are committed to sustainable trade and will donate a percentage of sales to a tree planting scheme based in New Zealand.

Their website exudes positivity and allows the team at some to remain connected to their clients. Dedicated to showcasing their label to buyers, you will often find their team members in-store liaising with clients.

Soon to be stocked in stores around New Zealand, some are excited to be able to share their pieces with their existing and new clients.

For more information, visit www.some.co.nz

JANE EPPSTEIN JEWELLERY Jane Eppstein’s eponymous jewellery line is the result of years spent working with designers in London and here in New Zealand. As a result, her pieces are often inspired by classical history and architecture along with natural elements.

The first thing she ever made was an Eiffel tower-inspired pendant out of nickel and brass, done in a college class.

Years later, her line is constructed from silver, gold, heavy gold plate and the occasional diamond – all made by her.

They may be inspired by ancient myths and legends, but they’re executed with a chic, modern aesthetic.

Jane Eppstein Jewellery has been producing regular collections for five years, including a collaboration with fashion designer Deborah Sweeney. Prior to that she experimented with gallerystyle jewellery, an experience that comes

26 I August 2018

through in her current unique but easyto-wear pieces.

The Wellington-based designer loves creating all her own products and insists on doing it all herself despite the increasing demand for her pieces. This means that every item is personally made and approved by the designer.

Her latest collection is Beetle and Bone, a smooth line inspired by nature and the wild. Think insect exoskeletons and small mammal vertebrae formed from simple, pure silver and gold.

Available at reasonable prices, this collection is a winter hit.

The brand is currently stocked in 12 select fashion and design stores across New Zealand and is open to growth.

Potential stockists can get in touch via Instagram or her website www.janeeppsteinjewellery.com.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 27

Understanding the shifting seasonality of apparel Aside from say, space travel, the apparel business has to be the most mind-bending counter-seasonal industry out there.

We within it have to routinely think in blocks of three, six, nine and twelve months consecutively.

When was the last time you got to work on summer product during the actual summer? Nope, you’re reworking a fringe sweater while the a/c blasts.

We get it.

But our data has highlighted something you’re probably starting to notice already – if not in sales figures yet, maybe in the depth of your current tan.

Summer seems to be becoming more significant.

While we’re not here to debate whether global warming is a thing (it is), there are very clear shifts in the way consumers buy stuff which needs careful analysis.

WHEN IS SUMMER ANYWAY? Traditionally, summer is less significant in retail.

Consumers wear less, and the things they do wear tend to be of lower value. Not just that, consumers escape hot cities, somehow not tempted by the sticky changing rooms of the mass market.

Retailers generally try to whizz through summer, drawing attention to the larger ticket items like wedding apparel or the emotive levers of the escapism in a new vacation wardrobe.

However, we spotted a thing.

Our software showed that in the May-July period, US retailers used the word ‘heat wave’ on sites and newsletters 303 percent more than the same period in 2017. The term ‘hot sun’ also saw an increase – of 167 percent.

Interesting? A bit. Now, consider this:

We compared retailer increases in cold weather apparel in the Q4 winter season – October, November, December – with increases in warm weather apparel in the Q2 summer season – April, May, June.

It revealed a larger increase in new arrivals in the summery items, like denim shorts, up 20 percent and linen apparel, up 13 percent this year compared to last. Meanwhile, cold weather items, like insulated apparel don’t receive such favorable retailer investment – increasing by a less noticeable 9 percent.

28 I August 2018

BUT WAIT, THERE’S MORE… Next, we dug a layer deeper to understand how consumers reacted to those retailer commitments.

And that’s where things got really fascinating.

Consistently, consumer interest in warm weather apparel (shown as product sell outs) had grown by a higher percentage than the retailer investment.

So, despite retailers lifting the number of espadrilles they stocked by 13 percent, consumers responded even more passionately, increasing sell outs by 26 percent.

Meanwhile, sell outs on winter-wear grew by less than the increase in new arrivals, sometimes even shrinking despite retailers having upped numbers of styles available.

Across a number of key seasonal categories we tested, we found the same to be true. Consumers are feeling warmer to summer, snapping up newness eagerly. Don’t take it personally, Autumn.

WHAT’S THAT GOING TO DO TO THE INDUSTRY? Let’s take stock of the situation. Global warming means hotter, more volatile summers, as well as dramatic winters. Consumers are leaping on the opportunity to invest in more seasonal warm-weather apparel.

That’s doing things like this:

In the chart above you can see the seasonality of swimwear shifts earlier and runs more consistently through Q2. In previous years we see an early first hit of summer product aimed at fashion’s keen early adopters and those holidaymakers not bound to school vacations.

That’s then backed up with one or two further phases, with distinct patterns in arrivals in May (for the masses) and July (for the late-shoppers). That model is changing.

What we expect to see across seasonal categories is longer, more defined areas with non-stop newness.

Retailers are reacting to the volatility of weather earlier in the season – those unexpected cold snaps in

edited

autumn or super warm days in May. This increases weather-related purchases earlier in the season, and at full price. Result? An increase in new arrivals earlier in the season, and a easing away from discounting, which we’ll get to in a minute.

WHAT ABOUT TRENDING SEASONAL PRODUCT? At first glance, it can be tricky to read seasonality from historic data if an item has surged to hit trend status.

Rather than looking at the height of the line which shows new arrivals, look at its cadence. We’ve highlighted important parts within the chart to show how seasonality has shifted up, regardless of the product becoming a trend.

A retailer using this data could flag October as a key point to check on newness levels to understand how to buy into the trend for 2019.

AND WHAT’S HAPPENED TO WINTER? Of course, winter isn’t going to go away. If anything, we need smarter winter apparel than ever before.

Consumers are just not going to be planning their spend until we see those first snowflakes fall.

And where formerly the emphasis for retailers would be on their higher-margin winter wears, we’re now seeing price point flattening out year-round.

In this chart, we’ve tracked the number of first discounts each month, along with the average price of new arrivals.

It’s really encouraging to see that levelling out of average price point this year. That’s happening at the same time as discounting periods are becoming more condensed. This May took the focus of the summer mid-season reductions which last year dragged April to June.

We’re looking at a retail future that’s more price stable for retailers, and that has targeted bolts of seasonally-specific newness for consumers. What’s not to love about that?

Be part of this vital industry resource

g n i t a d up

w o n 9 1 20

caitlan@reviewmags.com or call 09 304 0142 ext 706 apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 29

classifieds

Sourcing... Stocking...

Supplying... Satisfying...

IMPORTERS & MERCHANTS

P: 09 238 1916 F: 09 238 1919 E: sales@gdltradingnz.co.nz 66 John St, Pukekohe 2120, PO Box 683, Pukekohe 2340 www.gdltradingnz.co.nz

BOOK NOW

CONTACT CAITLAN 09 304 0142 EXT 706 OR

caitlan@reviewmags.com

Top quality products require the best quality.

You’re lucky.

We’ve got the best threads, needles and accessories for you.

terryapparel.co.nz apparel@terrys.co.nz tel: +64 9 966 1832 24m Allright Place, Mount Wellington Private Bag 14-935, Panmure, Auckland 1741

Joining your product

VISIT

30 I August 2018

OUR

WEBSITE

classifieds

afp

AUCKLAND FABRIC PRINTERS

Auckland fabric printers specialize in screen printing fabric on the roll for merino wool, linen, cotton, lycra, nylon, blends, knitted and woven fabric. apparel - fashion - soft furnishings - interior design - home ware

09-274 4100

sales@afprinters.co.nz

aucklandfabricprinters.co.nz

KEEN CUTTING CO Complete Sampling Service Patternmaking (computerised & manual) Computerised Digitising & Grading (Card or paper patterns) Computerised Marker Making (Compatible with Pad, Gerber Accumark and Lectra) Sample cutting with Fabric Estimates Sample Making Production Runs Production Cutting

Complete Samp Pat (compute Computerised Digitisin (Card or Computerised Ma (Compatible with Pad, Gerber Accum Sample cutting with Fabr Sam Prod Produc

Automated or manual cutting available.

We can organize pattern making, computer grading and marking.

Give us a call and see if we can help.

Call the team at Ph: (09) 369 9249 or email helenh@hsr.co.nz 21D PORANA RD, WAIRAU VALLEY

Ph 09 276 8338 or email keencutting@xtra.co.nz 5/91 Huia Road, Otahuhu C Ph: (09) 369 9249 or email he Auckland 1062 21D PORANA RD, W

​New Zealand’s number one supplier​​of industrial sewing, embroidery, Complete Servicemachinery.​ steam​Sampling & ​ curtain automated

More Than Just Bias Binding Contact PHILIP TANNER philip@generalproducts.co.nz

09 3735762

www.generalproducts.co.nz

Patternmaking ​L​EADING BRANDS​:​ Juki, Tajima, ​B​rother, Pegasus, Jiffy, Eisenkolb, Typical, Stirovap, Siruba (computerised & manual) Computerised Digitising & Grading (Card or paper patterns) Computerised Marker Making (Compatible with Pad, Gerber Accumark and Lectra) Sample cutting with Fabric Estimates Sample Making Production Runs Production Cutting

Email: sales@walkersotech.co.nz or sales@sewingtime.co.nz

0800 446953 • 09 525 0011​​• 03 366 1112 • New show room at 23 Fairfax Ave, Penrose, Auckland • 8 Stanley St, Sydenham, Christchurch

Call theor team at www.walkersotech.co.nz www.sewingtime.co.nz Ph: (09) 369 9249 or email helenh@hsr.co.nz 21D PORANA RD, WAIRAU VALLEY

StyleCAD # 1 Top Selling

WANTED 400 SQM SPACE TO LEASE • AUCKLAND CENTRAL AREA OR CLOSE • FOR RETAIL/SHOWROOM, WAREHOUSING, PLUS PARKING • PREFERABLE SHARING SPACE WITH CMT BUSINESS. • 2 + 2 YEARS LEASE

PDS/Pattern Grading & Marker Planning System.

StyleCAD is helping hundreds of companies in Australia, New Zealand & Fiji. Plus thousands world-wide.

Please email to philipchong@live.com or post detail to

To find out how a StyleCAD System will help your company Email: graeme@elizabethmachines.com.au

PO BOX 56176, DOMINION ROAD, MT EDEN, AUCKLAND apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 31

TOP-QUALITY TESTING, ANALYSIS AND CERTIFICATION – WORLDWIDE WITH SWISS RELIABILITY, SINCE 1846.

TESTEX stands for top-quality testing, analysis and certification – worldwide with Swiss reliability. We certify as an accredited, independent testing laboratory recognised worldwide.

Find more information at www.testex.com | melbourne@testex.com, auckland@testex.com