Apparel Magazine // September 2014

$ 9.00

SEPTEMBER 2014 VOL 47 NO 8

www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

THE ZAMBESI IDENTITY pg 18

14 16 23 26

04

NEWS

APPAREL RADAR

COLOUR TRENDING

TRIANGL SWIMWEAR NZFW WRAP UP

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FASHIONABLE

EDITOR’S letter AS part of a global transition in the way people communicate, in particular brands interacting with consumers, Instagram has certainly opened new doors.

In the beginning, Instagram was filled with industry insiders sharing photos and showcasing their work, today, the photo-sharing platform has turned into a serious contender for precious marketing dollars.

By allowing brands to focus on the creativity behind the image, Instagram is creating spaces of inspiration for fans. The fashion industry has come round to this revolution of visual content and even putting marketing campaigns and communication strategies in place to include Instagram. The ability to tell a story through pictures breaks down language barriers and can show everything about a brand visually from workshop, concept and design to the lifestyle of the label’s team at the store.

With Instagram, fashion labels have the capability to create communities and in most cases, a platform that followers and fans can be a part of and interact with others who like the brand also. International designer Michael Kors became the first ever advertiser on the app, with a post that gained 218,000 ‘likes’ and 33,000 new followers in just 18 hours. He believes that it is a critical tool for driving new sales.

“It allows us to give global fans – including those who don’t speak English – an inside look at the jet-set lifestyle and showcase product in places that we love.”

A combination of campaigns that cover print and social media is the most effective believes Kritsa Garcia,

analyst at eMarketer. “Instagram is considered as more of a platform for tastemakers. And that’s why even with effectiveness and [ROI] that’s unproven, fashion brands want to be there.”

The app is moving towards developing in-app purchases but is cautious. New York based start-up; Spring has been reported to be in talks with luxury labels about a new Instagram-like platform with clickand-buy features. Regardless of all the new apps that are popping up, in under two years, Instagram has become one of the most powerful social channel for visual based branding.

Enjoy the issue.

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

P.S: Make sure you fill out your 2015 Trade Directory form on the inside back page for your FREE listing.

ON THE COVER MODEL: IZZY @ 62 MODELS WEARING ZAMBESI PHOTO: CAITLAN MITCHELL

READS

Vogue and The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute: Parties, Exhibitions, People

by Hamish Bowles Covering the Costume Institute’s glamorous history this book both reflects the zeitgeist of The Metropolitan Museum of Art and contributes to its creation. Exhibitions of the 21st century are highlighted with photographs from the exhibitions themselves as well as the Vogue fashion shoots and galas they inspired.

contributors Being There JESSICA-BELLE GREER

CAITLAN MITCHELL

THOMAS FOWLER

KATIE SMITH

ANYA ANDERSON

CHRIS WILKINSON

CORINNE COLE

NORRIE MONTGOMERY

Sales & Editorial

Managing Director RedSeed Ltd Christchurch www.redseed.me

Editorial Assistant

Photograher

Partner at AJ Park corinne.blumsky@ ajpark.com Fashion Consultant

Managing Director of Strategists, First Retail Group www.firstretailgroup.com

Trend Analyst, EDITD www.editd.com/blog

Cecilie Geary Being There tells a New Zealand story of fashion insider author, Cecilie Geary. Geary’s love of fashion and its people combine with an extensive archive of superb images and stories to create a fascinating, nostalgic and informative read. Being There is the New Zealand Fashion Museum’s first e-publication and all proceeds from the book sales go to the NZ Fashion Museum Charitable Trust to support their research.

Photographer

Art Nouveau Fashion PUBLISHER EDITOR SALES & MARKETING SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DESIGNER PHOTOGRAPHER

Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Nathalie Owen, Dearra Naidoo CIRCULATION/ADMIN Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com

Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com

ISSN 1171-2287

Jessica-Belle Greer - jessica@reviewmags.com

Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com

2 I September 2014

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794

NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2014 NZ Apparel Magazine.

Clare Rose A glamorous look at the world of Art Nouveau fashion, this book transports the reader to an era with stunning designers such as Worth, Paquin, Poiret, and Fortuny. Art Nouveau Fashion focuses on these important designers before discussing Art Nouveau jewelry, accessories, advertising, artists and the influence of exotic Eastern cultures. With many previously unpublished photographs of film starlets and the V&A’s museum backroom, this is a striking and seductive read.

Exceptional retail opportunity at

WESTGATE LEASING NOW! Opening October 2015 DNZ is building a new $160 million shopping centre at Westgate. Catering to a large and expanding catchment, Westgate is ideally positioned to capitalise on Auckland’s underserved North West. Westgate will house a comprehensive mix of local and international brands anchored by Farmers and Countdown. Opening October 2015, Westgate will provide shoppers with a world class retail experience right at the junction of two of our major motorways.

Ronan McGinley

DNZ Property Fund Limited

Leasing Manager DDI: +64 9 913 1156 Phone: +64 9 912 2690 Mobile: +64 22 344 1845 Fax: +64 9 912 2693 Email: ronan.mcginley@dnzproperty.com

Level 2, 80 Greys Avenue, Auckland 1010 PO Box 6320, Wellesley Street, Auckland 1141 New Zealand.

www.dnzwestgate.co.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

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NEWS UBER SHOPPING EXPERIENCE WITH TOPSHOP

TIDE TURNING FOR BILLABONG

Fashion retailer Topshop/Topman Australia has teamed up with hire car and ride sharing app, Uber in a global first partnership that offers free rides to the Sydney flagship store.

By downloading the Uber app and entering the code, “TOPSHOPMINI”, consumers receive a free ride to the Gowings street store, not only does a VIP styling session await but also a $50 gift card to spend. A similar promotion was run earlier in the month in Melbourne.

The Uber app and service is available in Auckland and has been used for a variety of launches and promotions to engage consumers.

Australian surfwear brand Billabong has been working hard to focus on core brands and cut excess baggage by disposing of weaker retailers and labels.

This month the company divested its SurfStitch shares as well as its Swell.com retail platform for a reported $35 million to SurfStitch’s founders Justin

Cameron and Lex Pederson. The brand has already sold off ski and snowboard accessory label DaKine, and Canadian retailer, West 49. The sales form part of Billabong’s turnaround strategy, which has been successful in stabilising the business and reducing its losses by 73% on the previous year.

ACTIVEWEAR CHAIN FIGHTS BACK

Property Rights have been applied to Australian activewear chain, Lorna Jane in a bid to combat the rise of cheap replicas entering the market. The Brisbane-based chain aims to protect the integrity of the brand’s innovative fashion-forward designs. Around 70 to 100 new styles arrive in-store and online each month.

Lorna Jane report that a number of activewear and lifestyle brands on the market have begun releasing copies of Lorna Jane’s designs using cheap fabrics and poor quality construction methods. Founder, Lorna Jane Clarkson, is heavily involved in the garment process, from the initial design phase to the final garment fittings.

“Lorna Jane garments are made by active women for active women, and we take great pride in developing high tech fashionforward pieces to suit every woman’s active lifestyle,” Clarkson said.

The brand plans to take action against any brands that are seen to be selling or producing cheap replicas of its registered designs.

GHD CURVE LAUNCH

Innovators in heat styling, ghd, have announced the launch of their first ever range of curling tools – ghd curve. The four product range featuring two wands and two tongs, has been created in response to research conducted by the company which revealed women want a premium styling tool that allows them to easily and quickly create curls that last.

Developed by the ghd’s team of scientists at the Cambridge based Research and Development facility, ghd curve tackles the issue of curl-drop by utilizing patented tri-zone technology. Six quick-thinking sensors in the barrel heat the tools to the optimum styling temperature of 185 degrees Celsius and maintain this

4 I September 2014

KATHMANDU CEO TAKES A HIKE

Peter Halkett, has resigned from CEO position of Kathmandu to take a break. In his time as CEO, Halkett oversaw the company’s listing on the Australian and New Zealand share markets, and will hand over on November 25. “I have been with Kathmandu for eight years and feel the time is now right for me to take a break, up to a year off, and then look for a fresh challenge,” he said. Kathmandu’s COO Mark Todd will temporarily replace Halkett while the company searches for a permanent successor.

heat, constantly and evenly, delivering long-lasting, healthier-looking curls. ghd managing director for Australia and New Zealand, Lino Sinni describes ghd curve as the next step in the ghd styling revolution. “ghd is dedicated to product innovation, designed to enhance our consumers’ hair styling experience at home, so we’re delighted to introduce the new ghd curve curling range.” ghd curve will join the current line-up of ghd stylers that includes five hair stylers, two hairdryers, a range of styling brushes and a wet-line.

Fashion.

Textiles.

Connecting buyers with international suppliers

18 – 20 November 2014 Melbourne Exhibition Centre Register for free sourcingfair.com.au

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NEWS SKELLERUP AND TRELISE COOPER FIGHT FOR A CURE

The biggest threat to the future of New Zealand women is breast cancer, that’s why Breast Cancer Cure is calling out to all dairy farmers across the nation to help make a stand against the disease. Not only are the BCC working with the Dairy Women’s Network to get farmers to donate milk solids to the charity, they have teamed up with ANZ, Skellerup and Dame Trelise Cooper. Dame Trelise has designed a specially commissioned fashion gumboot and the first 1000 dairy farmers that sign up to the donation scheme with the Dairy Women’s Network, will receive a free pair.

NZFM YOUNG AT HEART

Fifty years after Beatlemania swept through New Zealand in an epidemic of hysteria, New Zealand Fashion Museum presents a new pop-up exhibition that looks at 1960s youth fashion and its present day exponents. Elle and the Youthquake: The changing face of fashion opens in late September at The Nathan Club in Auckland. New Zealand Fashion Museum is also proud to present their very first New Zealand Fashion Museum accessory, a silk habutai kerchief. It has been produced to honour the first anniversary of their online museum. Designed by Hilary Young, a textile designer and author/illustrator who is currently based in France, the kerchief has been digitally printed at AUT’s Textile and Design Lab. All profits from the sale of the kerchief will go towards the development of future pop-up exhibitions and the online collection. It is available from the NZFM online store.

PAC BRANDS SELLS OFF WORKWEAR

Clothing manufacturer Pacific Brands is to sell off its workwear brands to Wesfarmers after suffering a los of more than $224 million. The company, which makes socks and underwear brand Bonds and Sheridan sheets recorded a net loss of $224.5 million for the year to June 30, in comparison to the $73.8 million profit in the 2012/2013 period.

Finance chief David Bortolussi has been promoted to CEO, replacing John Pollaers, who left the company in July. Market conditions look to remain challenging for the 2014/2015 period as competition continues to hurt profit margins, warned Pacific.

Bortolussi said the sale of its workwear brands would allow the company to focus on the performance of Bonds and Sheridan.

“It also reduces exposure to the challenging industrial market, and restores balance sheet strength to the company,” continued Bortolussi.

Pacific will not pay a final dividend to shareholders.

SUMMER TIES FOR PIERRE CARDIN

Continuing to blend style, superlative quality fabrics and new design together, Pierre Cardin have released its new Summer ’14 tie collection that is all about soft colours and textures.

New and interesting weaving structures are combined to highlight the distinctive characters of each. With a nod to recent denim and linen trends, many of the ties lend themselves to a casual ensemble. Tones from the latest collection help these textures in the overall look of softness with the colour palette ranging from dusky pink and Tuscan brick, through to lichen green and rustic ochre. Designed for the business man with a true appreciation of quality, style and individuality, the collection is available to retailers only through Parisian by contacting Dennis on (09) 303 4129.

FASHION PATTERN BECOMES PASSPORT TO INDIA

Fifteen New Zealand Fashion Tech students will be flying to India in November after winning the Prime Minister’s Scholarships to Asia, and to these students their winning patterns are just as valuable as their passport. In the first stage of a unique education exchange that began in May, each student’s pattern was made from hand-woven silk and shown at New Zealand Fashion Week. Now these patterns will be re-created in India, but their pattern will be gifted to the students at Bannari Amman Institute of Technology for ongoing learning about New Zealand design. In exchange, the New Zealand students will learn about the ancient heritage of Indian textile production first-hand.

6 I September 2014

AUCKLAND BEADS CHANGE OF OWNERSHIP

After 15 years in the industry, Auckland Beads founder, Norbert Csatary has sold his business – one of New Zealand’s leading wholesale beads and accessories suppliers to the fashion industry. New owner, Laurence Jorieux-Lequitte is turning her passion for custom jewellery into a career. Migrating to New Zealand in 1997, the French native is a graphic designer, jewellery maker and businesswoman who has worked with top brands such as L’Oreal. Taking on Auckland Beads was an easy decision for Jorieux-Lequitte and one she felt very strongly about. Both her grandmother and mother have instilled her with a love of craft, fashion and fine art from a young age and she is self-taught in polymer clay art. Jorieux-Lequitte will continue to build Auckland Beads into a premium destination with a variety of beads and accessories from all over the world available at wholesale prices. Changes to the business will be listed on its new website and Facebook page.

WORKSHOP AOTEAROA

Workshop is pleased to announce the re-launch of its impeccably tailored suits under the brand name Workshop Aotearoa. Made exclusively in New Zealand, the suits are crafted from the finest fabrics; Japanese stretch wool, English mohair and Italian linen alongside modern blends such as linen rayon, linen cotton and stretch cotton wool denim. Off the rack suits are priced from $1,198 including a complimentary tailoring service.

A made to order service will also be available by appointment. Also under development is a line of tailored shirting, belts, ties and accessories.

Your businesses are as varied as our students . . .

. . . let us help you make the best match through work experience and employment options.

CALL Jacqui 09 309 5020 or visit www.nzfashiontech.ac.nz

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NEWS WORLD TURNS 25

This year marks the 25th anniversary of New Zealand’s iconic brand and luxury retailer WORLD: Factory of Ideas and Experiments. To celebrate their Silver Jubilee WORLD put on a delightful high tea at The Langham Auckland with a select group of guests.

If you missed Apparel’s feature article on WORLD in our July issue that showcased and reflected on the history of the brand, you can read it online at www.apparelmagazine.co.nz.

The team at Apparel would like to congratulate the team at WORLD on their 25 years and to the next 25!

SCHOOL STUDENTS YOUNG ENTERPRISE PJ’s, JimJam’s and Jammies, everyone loves a comfortable pair of pyjamas after a long day and for those lazy Sundays at home.

Luna & Co is a sleepwear and loungewear brand founded by a group of eight Year 12 students from St Cuthbert’s College as part of the Lion Foundation Young Enterprise scheme. The first collection consists of three basic pairs and the group is looking to produce a second collection or extend the first if it goes well.

For every three pairs of pyjama shorts sold, one pair will be donated to the Women’s Refuge. “The idea behind Luna & Co is that pyjama’s are the ultimate source of comfort and that feeling is something that we wanted to share with those who wouldn’t otherwise be in a position to experience it,” said Rosa Shand, one of the students behind the initiative. “We established Luna & Co to fill a gap in the market to give teenagers the opportunity to buy stylish, light pyjama shorts for themselves, but also to give back to the community to those less fortunate.”

The sleepwear range was inspired by the French film ‘Pierrot Le Fou’ and are sold for $30-$40 on the Luna and Co website. For stockist enquiries contact Rosa at info@ lunaandco.com or visit www.lunaandco.com.

AGHA ACQUIRES FASHION EXPOSED

In a strategic move to strengthen the Home & Giving Fairs and to support more wholesalers and retailers, the Australian Gift & Homewares Association (AGHA) has officially acquired Fashion Exposed. The dedicated fashion trade event, previously owned and managed by Informa Exhibitions, has brought together the fashion industry to seek and discover the latest apparel, footwear and accessories over the last 14 years.

“The acquisition adds massive value to our Sydney Home & Giving Fair which is now the largest and most comprehensive gift, homewares and fashion event in Sydney,” said AGHA executive general manager, Omer Soker.

Housed in massive 32,000 square metres at Sydney Olympic Park, Fashion Expose will occupy the new Halls 5 and 6 which will be connected to the Home & Giving Fair and run alongside the existing Fashion & Jewellery segment via two internal visitor traffic thoroughfares and with its own entry for buyers.

The acquisition of Fashion Exposed by AGHA is a ground breaking move that will meet the growing demands of the industry, to provide an all-encompassing event. Managing director of Informa Exhibitions, Harvey Stockbridge reveals that “the challenging environment over the past few years has generated a need for retailers to diversify their in-store product offering and create a show that provides the industry with a ‘one-stop-shop’. This new feature to the Home & Giving Fair will offer a unique opportunity for buyers to access a more comprehensive and diverse range of products, all under one roof. The upcoming Home & Giving Fair featuring Fashion Exposed will be held from 21-24 February 2015 at Sydney Showground, Sydney Olympic Park. For enquiries contact Lucia Ordenes-Sanchez on lucia@agha.com.au.

GOLDSMITH SCHOOL FINALISTS IN JEWELLERY AWARDS

Now in its 23rd year, the Australian Jewellery Awards put on by the Jewellery Association of Australia, gives jewelers a platform to start or enhance their career in the industry. The JAA Awards competition was introduced out of the desire to showcase and honour the best designers and well designed pieces. The award winning pieces are highlighted to the international public via the Awards Presentation event and are promoted throughout the industry across the world. The Peter Minturn Goldsmith School in Auckland had three finalists this year. Erika Watson, Jonathan Maher, who are both currently studying at PMGS for an advanced diploma in jewellery and goldsmithing and Hannah Cross who is currently studying for her diploma in jewellery and goldsmithing. The Peter Minturn Goldsmith School’s aim is to educate and train students to a professional standard in the arts, crafts and design of the jeweler goldsmith.

Since 2004 the schools’ graduates have continued to achieve excellent results and gain employment within the jewellery trade. The school is NZQA approved at levels 4, 5 and 6 in Goldsmithing and Jewellery, based on Peter’s 60 year career as a designer goldsmith and the western European style of handmade diamond mounting and ring making.

8 I September 2014

NUMBER ONE SHOES RELAUNCH

In a bid to shift the brand from being associated with large storage facilities, Number One Shoes dropped the word ‘warehouse’ from its name in 2010.

Now, in order to continue moving forward the retail chain is in the process of revamping its stores to create an improved shopping experience for customers.

The Westfield Albany store was first on the list and will be closely followed by St Luke’s store, both in Auckland. The company has launched a series of quirky campaigns via its PR agency, Starseed. “Earlier last month we launched the Albany store with people lining up at 6am,” said Starseed creative director, Karen Maurice O’Leary. “This hype was created by announcing a public housewarming party. Shoppers were invited to come down, take off an old pair of shoes at the front door and walk in barefoot to choose a brand new pair of shoes for free.”“A lot of design/interior work has created a completely transformed shoe shopping experience,” said O’Leary. “The new layout is made up of a series of ‘shoe zones’ catering to women, men, kids, teens, toddlers, brides and sports lovers.”

NEWS MYER CALLS FOR PAY RESTRUCTURE

Myer chief Bernie Brookes would ideally like the Myer staff to be paid according to what they sell, rather than the rates set down in their workplace agreement.

Calling for a more “laissez faire” industrial relations environment, in Brookes’ opinion, would help the department store lift its customer service and sales. Replicating that of the US retailers like Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus, both are well known for their customer service, workers at the stores would receive a base pay plus a percentage of sales, which provides the incentive to sell more, however impossible under Australian workplace laws.

“In a laissez faire environment we would like the opportunity to negotiate with our store team to be able to provide them with additional benefits,” said Brookes.

“We are not advocating any reduction in wages at all. We are confident that to attract the right quality people we’d pay them a higher rate of pay.” Despite Brookes wishes, this looks to be a concept that will not come to fruition for the company any time soon with the Abbot government ruling out changes to workplace legislation during its first term.

BROTHERS TEAM UP FOR APPAREL BUSINESS

Brothers Ray and Shay Narsey have teamed up to develop their apparel business, Direct Sewing Machines and Supplies. Direct Sewing is an affordable machinery supplier to the apparel industry as well as stockists of the largest range of sewing accessories. After starting to sell machines and accessories on popular e-commerce website TradeMe, it quickly became apparent that there was a gap in the market for trustworthy sewing supplies online.

In the first couple of years the company grew so rapidly that Ray needed to get his brother Shay involved and the business quickly became Top Sellers on TradeMe. Being an official TradeMe store is now just part of the business mix with the pair hiring industry professionals to create a user friendly website to reach a wider audience, popular with fashion students. The brothers have also created an online Facebook community in which people can share sewing tips and ideas, like an online ‘sewing club’. Now even those who have been sewing over 25 years say they are learning new things from this community group.

BARKERS OPEN AT NO.1

New Zealand menswear retailer, Barkers has opened its biggest store to date. No.1 High Street in Auckland is now home to the impressive 436sqm store that features its very own espresso bar ‘Burrs & Grind’ and men’s grooming room. The shop fit-out has been custom made to fit the status one heritage building space, right down to pressure mounted signs and awnings. Lighting and shelves are all free standing, as the fit out cannot be fixed to the walls or ceiling. Using the existing espresso bar as a counter, the space follows a 1920s prohibition theme. Names on the changing room doors reflect individuals who were anti prohibition laws. The store is also home to its very own made-to-measure division that acts as a store within a store, separate fitting room and counter.

Matt Swan is running the Groom Room division that offers haircuts, wet shaves and whiskey. The new store truly is a onestop shop for men. Barkers currently have 28 stores nationwide.

CAMPER OPENS IN NZ

Spanish footwear brand, Camper has opened its first custom designed retail store in Auckland.

With more than 400 stores in 50 countries, and no two stores alike, Camper’s newest store at 53 High Street in Auckland designed by European interior designer Mari Guixe is stamped with his typical bold, fun and whimsical designs.

The store will range shoes for men, women and kids.

Known for beautiful design and craftsmanship, Camper use only quality materials selected to last the distance and while classic in style all designs feature an original twist. Photo by: Anna Kidman.

ENTRIES OPEN FOR SCHOLARSHIP

DHL, the world’s leading express and logistics company, is calling for emerging fashion exporters to enter the seventh annual DHL Express Fashion Export Scholarship. Designed to identify the country’s up-andcoming fashion exporters and assist them in achieving international growth, the scholarship is open to New Zealand designers who have been exporting for less than five years.

The scholarship has become an early identifier of young talent in New Zealand, with previous winners

such as Stolen Girlfriends Club, Lonely Hearts, twentyseven names and I Love Ugly going on to receive significant international recognition.

The winner of the scholarship will receive international freight to the value of NZ$10,000, as well as coaching in freight and logistics from DHL Express.

Entrants are required to complete an official application form and submit look-books from previous collections.

Applications will be judged across several categories, including ‘brand and design’, ‘sales and marketing’ and ‘export strategy’. Entries close Friday 10 October 2014.

Applicants can find more information and apply via the website: www.dhlfashionscholarship.co.nz.

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NEWS JANE DANIELS OPENS IN PONSONBY

Iconic New Zealand fashion designer, Jane Daniels has opened a new boutique in Ponsonby, Auckland. Designed by Daniels herself, the store is welcoming and modern, showcasing garments amongst the neutral black, white and grey colour scheme with industrial metal fittings.

Jane has designed the metal elements in-store in collaboration with a talented master of metalwork.

Daniels said the Parnell store has developed loyal clientele over the years but it has been a dream of hers to showcase her eponymous clothing label in Ponsonby.

“When this boutique became available I knew it would be the ideal space to pay homage to our luxurious fabrics that create unique, fashion forward pieces. All of our garments are made locally and this new retail store has given us the opportunity to start with a blank canvas, creating a back drop for our collection that does justice to the quality of the clothes,” said Daniels.

The new store features the latest Summer 14/15 collection that was inspired by the ‘essence of summer’. The label has been providing elegant clothes for New Zealanders since 1986.

THE SHELTER OPENING

Auckland’s boutique shopping capital, Ponsonby, has welcomed its newest store The Shelter this month. The Shelter is a shared contemporary space of like-minded, design-led brands that create a relaxed artistic experience for the discerning shopper.

It houses a carefully curated selection of new and established local and international brands. Brands include Danish clothing designer Barbara Gongini, Canadian jewellery designer Arielle de Pinto and local brands such as Monday’s Child from Christchurch and Vicki Taylor’s own brand, taylor. The Shelter also features an on-site café and bike store.

Owner Vicki Taylor has had the concept for The Shelter for many years, and was waiting for the right location and time to present itself for her vision to become a reality. “Once the client enters the space they are drawn in to explore the area through semi-concealed areas that create intrigue. I want customers to lose themselves inside the space. The idea is that you can access design-led versions of all your lifestyle essentials at The Shelter.

Food, clothing and homeware are all delivered to create a sophisticated and creative environment for discerning shoppers,” said Taylor.

ALANNAH HILL LAUNCHES NEW LABEL

NEW SPACE FOR DEADLY PONIES

The greatly anticipated Deadly Ponies flagship store opened this month in the blossoming fashion hub of Mackelvie Street, Ponsonby in Auckland.

Creative director, Liam Bowden knew that he had found the perfect location when he first stepped into the former Gary Nash glass studio.

“Being a creative space already, it gave us the license to design an artistically raw space that would showcase our brand,” said Bowden.

The brand enlisted celebrated interior designer Katie Lockhart to articulate their vision.

“Deadly Ponies had used plinth in their previous store, which got me exploring the idea of totems and plinths.

I knew that I wanted contrast between the perfection of Deadly Ponies hang bags and the materiality of the totems and I started thinking about Brancusi’s atelier, which I visited last year in Paris,” Lockheart discussed.

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10 I September 2014

A year after parting ways with her namesake label, Australian designer Alannah Hill has returned with her new label Louise Love and it is to be stocked in department store David Jones from this month onwards.

Hill made the announcement via her Facebook page, “Mr David Jones has bought my capsule collection and from mid September I will be available on the very special Designer Floor as Louise Love. I signed an exclusive contract with David Jones last week with my new brand Louise Love and I will be available exclusively in five of their top stores”.

Alannah Hill left her previous eponymous brand in August 2013 and is now owned by Factory X.

NEWS ADIDAS LOOKS TO 400 NEW CHINESE CITIES

To increase its footprint in China, global sports brand, adidas intends to expand into another 400 cities by the end of 2015.

With an impressive 7600 shops across 1000 Chinese cities already, the brand has partnered with GMAP Marketing Consulting to help with the expansion strategy. GMAP’s Shanghai team will help adidas identify target customers and develop optimal location strategies for store networks and expansion.

FORMER ALL WHITE OPENS SECOND STORE

Former All White Ivan Vicelich has opened his second retail store, Playmaker Sports in Grey Lynn. Vicelich owns and operates the Playmaker Sports store in the Auckland suburb of Mt Eden, which launched in November 2012. He says the new store at Grey Lynn is a natural progression for the business.

“We’ve had excellent feedback about our Mt Eden offering, and we’ve continued to maintain our position as a leading retailer of sports performance and sports-inspired apparel, footwear and equipment tailored specifically for children,” said Vicelich. The latest store will build on Playmaker Sports’ commitment to offering high quality brands, exceptional range, and professional knowledge for young athletes.

EUROPEAN BRAND TO OPEN FLAGSHIP IN NZ

Luxury Spanish jewellery and accessories brand TOUS is set to open on Customs St in Auckland this November. The Auckland flagship will be the first store in Australasia for the brand and joins other high-end fashion houses including Prada, Dior and Swarovski in the newly refurbished Tower Building, next to the exclusive Customs Street House on Queen Street.

With a rich heritage dating back to the 1920s, it was in 1965 when Salvador and Rosa Tous decided to combine their talents and design a new style of jewellery after inheriting his family’s watch repair shop. Since then, the family business has grown to become one of the most beloved Spanish brands in Europe and the Americas, producing a range of lavish jewellery and premium leather handbags.

Asia-Pacific manager for the brand Oscar Santos, believes the products will be popular with New Zealanders.

“We believe that New Zealanders want more choice in the luxury goods market, as currently many are travelling to Australia and Asia for quality designer goods.”

TOUS has more than 400 stores in 45 countries and has plans to open stores in Wellington and Christchurch.

This month, Parisian celebrates 95 years of providing retailers and the New Zealand public with ties, belts and accessories.

Established in 1919, Parisian remains under the care of the founding family, four generations on.

Parisian works to the principle of meeting the market with quality product and dependable service.

As an employer, Parisian preserves its focus on local manufacture.

Thank you New Zealand

New Zealand’s finest ties and belts

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I 11

NEWS COTTON ON UNLOCK AUGMENTED REALITY

September will see the global introduction of augmented reality technology into Cotton On stores. The technology will give consumers the power to bring store windows to life by triggering interactive, digital window displays from their mobile devices. This will unlock video content and reveal promotional offers and discount codes that the customer can use in-store to purchase key looks of the season at a reduced price.

Digital and e-commerce manager at Cotton On, Sameiko Slota, said they are constantly on the hunt to find innovative ways of engaging with their savvy customers. “Building on our huge mobile usage globally it was important our new mobile app played a part in our latest campaign,” Slota said.

TOP MODEL STRUTS NZ STUDENT DESIGNS

Massey University graduate Sean Kelly made waves on the American fashion design series Project Runway when he won the best design on one of the episodes. Co-presenter of the show and top model Heidi Klum wore the winning dress to the Creative Art Emmy awards in August.

Allowing customers to discover and engage with the brand and create a unique shopping experience by merging shopping and technology is the way forward for the retail chain. The user friendly technology can be accessed by downloading the Cotton On smart phone application and placing the phone over the campaign image in the shop window, which will automatically unlock the video content and promotional code for the customer to use in-store.

ONLINE COMMERCE A BOOST FOR KIWI EXPORTERS

Leading express and logistics company DHL has revealed that online commerce has increased business for almost three quarters of the New Zealand exporters surveyed.

The survey also found that the majority of exporters (76%) are generating at least some export sales from online orders. Of that, 27 per cent of exporters generate at least 50 per cent of their orders through online channels.

Country manager for DHL Express New Zealand, Tim Baxter, said that “The online sphere is one of the most rapidly changing areas of exporting, and we believe that it will become a crucial area for those looking to export to offshore markets in the next few years.”

Passion for

Fashion?

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Call 0508 327 872 Miss World (NZ) wearing the National Costume designed by sewtec student Amy Lautogo

www.dastraining.co.nz

12 I September 2014

NEWS NEW BRAND AT AUCKLAND AIRPORT

MAX CLICK AND COLLECT

New Zealand based menswear brand, 3 Wise Men, has opened its latest store at Auckland Airport’s domestic terminal. Part of the brand’s ambitious expansion plan, managing director Richard Miles predicts the new store should increase turnover by 15 per cent over the next year.

“Airport retail spots are tightly held and very limited,” Miles said. “We’ve been in discussions with Auckland Aiport for more than a year, waiting for the right position to become available. Auckland Airport is keen to expand its domestic terminal retail offering prior to the full terminal redevelopment project, so it was a happy meeting of minds.” The new store offers customers a ‘fly and collect’ service with pre-ordering and airport pick up, and a ‘fly to your home’ service.

Earlier this month, along with the launch of its new website, New Zealand womenswear retailer Max Fashions implemented the ‘click and collect’ option.

All items on the Max website are available for customers to click and collect at the store of their choice. If the items are in stock in the selected store, the customer will receive notification in less than three hours. If the items are not available, stores will transfer the items and have them ready in store by the next working day. Customers can try before they buy if they wish, as they are not required to pay until they are in the store.

Marketing manager for Max, Hannah Mortlock believes the click and collect option was a necessary step to give customers the best shopping experience.

“It is also a great way to get our store staff engaged and excited about online. It works well for us because there is a very strong store team culture and operations procedure.” The company’s click and collect option is currently available in all stores excluding outlets.

DEBUT AT NZFW

NEW Zealand designer Maree MacLean showed two labels at NZ Fashion Week this year. The first is her eponymous luxury shoe brand and the second being The Noble Savage collection, a made to order clothing brand co-designed with Parisian fashion designer, Angela Gallard.

Maree had always wanted to fuse her Maori inspired aesthetic in her shoes and clothing designs with that of another culture, so when a fortuitous event brought MacLean back to her New Zealand homeland from Copenhagen, The Noble Savage began.

Gallard was working as a fashion student for top New Zealand designer Kate Sylvester when she saw a pair of MacLean’s boots.

Their collaborative collection in the Miromoda show at this year’s New Zealand Fashion Week combined Maori tradition with French chic and includes NZ Perino, a cheaper, lighter and warmer wool grown in New Zealand, the Maori knotting technique of Tanniko, spiritual Maori emblems and French silhouettes in thirteen incredible garments.

The Noble Savage is environmentally conscious, sustainable luxury. MacLean’s career highlight is having her shoes stocked in A Pair, the best luxury shoe store in Copenhagen.

Having studied at the Fashion Institute of Technology in Auckland, MacLean knew she wanted to learn more and attended ARS Sutoria School in Milan, a technical institute on the art of footwear. What she loves most about fashion is seeing the final results from collaborating with other designers and travelling the globe to find the right stores to position her luxury labels.

However, MacLean is saddened by fast fashion that is made with no thought for the environment or made by workers sewing in substandard conditions, and so, aims to be 100 per cent sustainable by 2020 with her brand The Noble Savage.

Both labels will be stocked in boutiques in Dubai, Copenhagen and Paris as well as being sold exclusively online in New Zealand.

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I 13

AMANDA ALEXANDER COLLECTIONS

LEWIS FREDERICKS EYEWEAR

After discovering a renewable resource that they wanted to make into a sustainable product, founders Auguste Gruar and Josh Bowden started eyewear label Lewis Fredericks. Now nine months old, Lewis Fredericks successfully uses left over Buffalo horn to make stylish sunglasses and spectacles out of a product that usually goes to waste. As the buffalo horn cannot be replicated all of the pieces in the collection are one of a kind. Lightweight yet durable, Lewis Fredericks eyewear gently mould to the wearer’s face over time.

Another great quality to the product is that they are hypoallergenic. The aesthetic of the brand is conservative and clean with silhouettes being a platform for the horn’s natural beauty. Gruar and Bowden have started with two sunglass silhouettes in their first collection, in three colour ways. The range will soon expand to include three optical variants. The brand is looking to branch out not only in local markets but also internationally. For more information visit the website www.lewisfredericks. co.nz or for wholesale enquiries contact Auguste at auguste@lewisfredericks.co.nz.

Amanda Alexander designs beautiful, classic pyjamas for women, made in New Zealand from the finest cotton and silks. The collection features delicate, feminine prints and exudes luxury. The mother of two started the brand making children’s pyjamas, but when a friend asked her to make a matching mother and daughter set she couldn’t refuse.

“I don’t have a background in design, it’s all self taught.

It really is a passion that has grown into a business,” she said. Along with her successful range of pyjamas, Alexander has now fulfilled her long-time dream of developing her own range of soy candles.

Amanda Alexander Collections is currently stocked in selected boutiques in Auckland. For more information and for wholesale enquiries please contact Amanda at amanda@amandaalexandercollections.com or visit her website www.amandaalexandercollections.com.

CATHY POPE JEWELLERY

Hand-crafted to perfection, the New Zealand stylist and designer’s statement gemstone jewellery brand is simple, bold and timeless. Cathy Pope’s passion for beauty and exceptional eye for design is definitely the driving force behind her limited edition pieces. The designs have evolved from Pope’s genuine fascination with the metaphysical meanings behind gemstones and a love of costume and colour. Necklaces, earrings and key chains, made from quality materials that feature striking gemstones from balancing amethyst to energising carnelian are available online and in selected stores around New Zealand.

With a successful career in design, from wedding dresses to wardrobe styling for TV, film and theatre, Cathy Pope is making a huge impression on the New Zealand fashion scene with her standout style Friends Chloe and Alex may have once joked about starting a clothing label after and distinctive gemstone jewellery. When she’s not not being able to find clothes on a shopping trip, but now the design duo designing and creating her sought-after gemstone are the brains behind fashion label The Lucid Collective. Self proclaimed jewellery, Pope is styling TV commercials and running perfectionists; Chloe and Alex went with the name The Lucid Collective her bespoke dressmaking business from her central because of its perfect symmetry between the three words and the three Auckland studio The Fitting Rooms. For wholesale lines of their tri-bar logo. “‘The’ is a word that is often overlooked but it refers enquiries contact cathy@cathypope.co.nz. to something assumed to be common knowledge – we were playing with the idea of faking it ‘til you make it there. ‘Lucid’ has a double meaning of either being easily understood, or a period of clarity during insanity; both of these fit with the idea of making clean, durable clothing. ‘Collective’ obviously refers to a group. At the start, it was just Alex and I, but Lucid has since transformed into a really interesting vehicle for a bunch of creative friends to just do really rad things,” said Chloe. Not having experience or qualifications in fashion design has not stopped this pair from success. The latest collection ‘Cold Wash’ is a result of Chloe and Alex getting back to basics and being new to the fashion game, they wanted to strip back to a neutral colour palette of white, black and grey all cut from butter soft cottons. “The name of the collection alludes to the cycle we engage in daily with our clothes, and attempts to play with the idea of longevity or endurance and quality,” continued Chloe.

“We attempted to make clothes men would care about so much that they’d follow the care label instructions,”added Alex. The brand is currently stocked in Mercer, Wellington, and Wanderer in Christchruch.

Manufacturing and predominately sourced in New Zealand the label hopes to gain more stockists here and offshore. For wholesale enquiries contact Chloe at chloe@ thelucidcollective.com.

THE LUCID COLLECTIVE

14 I September 2014

OSHO THE LABEL

Like most women, designer Joyce Quah has a passion for leather and bags. This passion is helping to create and develop her new brand Osho. Her first collection, entitled Wildlings, is leather bags made entirely by hand folding, rivets and studs.

Inspired by Game of Thrones, the Singaporean born Quah hopes to develop her brand to incorporate accessories like stacker rings. Osho is the Japanese word for monk or a Buddhist monk, and the brand aesthetic is all about clean lines, simple, uncomplicated and uncluttered designs for everyday life. For more information and wholesale enquiries please contact oshothelabel@gmail.com.

BLACK EYE PEACH

LEE ALEXANDER

Leather handbag label, Lee Alexander has hit the ground running in the last couple of months and doesn’t look to be slowing down any time soon. After ten years researching and working on creations and designs, husband and wife design duo Lee and Alexander Klein decided to focus on building their brand. Designed and handmade in New Zealand the brand focuses on quality and exclusivity of each product.

Innovative ideas, fashionable cutting, patterns and attention to detail are some of the characteristics of the brand, and the pair are always looking out for the latest trends to surprise and exceed the expectation of their customers.

The brand was created to combine the best of two worlds, the sophistication of European origin in New Zealand with the Latino inspiration. The textures, colours and customisation are carefully chosen in every collection, ensuring high quality products of luxury and glamour represent the Lee Alexander brand. For wholesale enquiries contact Alexander at info@leealexander.co.nz.

Childhood friends Natalia and Lucille founded womenswear label Black Eye Peach in October last year after seeing a gap in the market for what women really wanted. “We believe that women are after tailored, stylised clothing that is reasonably priced, comfortable to wear, good quality and embodies a strong, independent woman,” said Lucille.

The pair came to a crossroads in their careers after completing communication degrees at Canterbury University and decided to team up to create their very own fashion range. “We have always shared a love for clothing and fashion so this felt like a natural step for us.”

Black Eye Peach specialise in handcrafted designs that combine the feminine and masculine duality of sharp tailoring to create chic, effortless collections. After opening their first store in Lyttleton the pair are now looking into developing the online store. For wholesale enquiries contact Natalia at info@ blackeyepeach.co.nz, 02102967265, or visit their website www.blackeyepeach.co.nz.

FOX AND HERBERT

Fox and Herbert is a small Wellington based fashion brand founded by Stephanie Foster in 2010. As a child, Foster would spend hours consumed in costume cupboards with her grandmother and became enthralled in the world of fashion.

She went on to study Fashion Design at UCOL in Whanganui.

The brand focuses on a minimal aesthetic using clean lines and luxury fabrics.

“Fabrics play a huge role in my collections, I use moulage techniques to design a lot of garments as I like to see how the natural drape of fabric will behave and how I can manipulate that on a mannequin,” said Foster.

Fox and Herbert’s bold colours, classic designs and expert tailoring create a stunning collection of unique pieces perfect for any occasion. For wholesale enquiries contact Stephanie at foxnherbit@gmail.com, or call 043898987. For more information visit www.stephaniefoster.co.nz.

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I 15

COLOUR TRENDING

KAUFMANFRANCO RESENE Double Alabaster

BARBARA BUI RESENE Glistening White

VERONIQUE LEROY RESENE Triple Sea Fog

SNOWFLAKE With spring on the doorstep, designers look ahead to create the upcoming trends for next winter. It’s no secret black has become the standard choice in colder months – until now.

ISABEL MARANT RESENE Springwood

16 I September 2014

A.F. VANDEVORST RESENE Bonjour

RUNWAYS were treated to a dusting of white this season, with various designers opting for a fresher palette to combat the expected dull, wet and depressing winter selection of black, navy and charcoal. Not to be confused with spring collections, the choices this season still feature many furs and jackets, doing away with a darker palette for a modern alternative in bone, white, enamel and much more.

Barbara Bui made white feel so warm in a cable knit three-piece look. The colour, similar to Resene Glistening White, cut through the crowd and commanded attention to its purity. Right down to the shoes, Bui created an outfit that dominated over its competitors in the most comfortable chic way. For a designer renowned for her love of the punk aesthetic – mostly just the colour black – she did an excellent job of taking such an oppositional element and transforming it into a cohesive facet of the entire collection. Mixing on-trend designs has secured Bui’s looks in the wardrobe watch of many stores, no surprise coming from a designer making every effort to know her customer through and through.

Gareth Pugh stuck to his roots in his latest collection, a truly

VICTORIA BECKHAM RESENE Half Alabaster

HERMÉS RESENE Quarter Black White

experimental showcase of epic proportions. Pugh mixed textures and silhouettes, molding fabric in a way never seen before. The collection consisted entirely in shades of cream and white, some similar to Resene Anglaise, with a touch of metallic to help drive the vision into the future. Although at first the show may seem outlandish and over the top, there were many pieces that, once taken away from the drama of a catwalk, could function in a casual environment. Needless to say however, much like the collection exudes confidence and stride, it would take a woman of equal standing to really pull these kinds of looks off.

Hermés depicted its vision of a modern woman in the winter collection, featuring comfortable, trans-situational pieces that function across seasons and time periods. At its core, the collection speaks volumes of luxury, ensuring each look is as powerful as the next. Incorporating other trends like oversized coats, this jumpsuit fits perfectly with the timeline of the current consumer, a wearer who is looking to maximize wearability in the most costeffective way. Constructed in a colour similar to Resene Quarter Black White, the jumpsuit’s stark white appearance is as refreshing as the elegant expert drapery that

GARETH PUGH RESENE Anglaise

forms the piece. Whether it be the working woman or the simply elegant, this winter collection features pieces essential for next winter and many seasons to come.

Simplicity is key in the Victoria Beckham collection, taking a step back from her past boyish looks in favour of an elongated silhouette with feminine proportions. The success is in the details of the collection, with gold chains replacing traditional button closures on a white cashmere coat or the very delicate pleating on this gracious three quarter dress in a colour similar to Resene Half Alabaster. As the fairly new fashion brand grows, we see Beckham expand on her offering of eveningwear – reportedly her biggest seller – a great success with the buyers and another step forward to taking the company to the next level. With the opening of her new store in London’s Dover Street, it’s clear to see Beckham is working hard in establishing herself as a prominent designer in a brutally subjective and unpredictable industry.

A.F. Vandevost caught the tailwind of the sporty trend, offering up this in rebuttal. The collection featured various textures and logos, with a model walking out wearing nothing but the A.F. Vandevost branding across her bare chest. The most sporty of all the looks is the felted baseball top with matching cap and skirt in a colour similar to Resene Bonjour. Drop shoulder sleeves and the choice of fabric help transform what is traditionally a masculine uniform into a soft

CHLOE RESENE Half Vista White

display of sports culture, literally taking inspiration from existing uniforms and translating it into an outfit for the current woman. Whilst the collection has been described as boring, A.F. Vandevost has incorporated interesting textiles into a collection that is fundamentally effortless casual chic.

In various shades, shapes, styles and selections, there is a choice for every customer this winter. The season is a whitewash of cream, bone, snowflake and much more. A crisp and elegant way to have a look that stands out in the dark and gloomy designs of various other more classical trends.

Colours available from Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz 0800 737 363

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I 17

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

E

THE ZAMBESI IDENTITY

Apparel sat down with designer Elisabeth Findlay, co-founder of Zambesi and discussed growing and developing a brand in the fast paced world of New Zealand fashion.

Neville and Elisabeth Findlay of Zambesi.

18 I September 2014

STABLISHED in 1979 by Elisabeth and Neville Findlay, Zambesi continue to produce functional, stylish garments that have a quality cut, and make signature that is proudly made in New Zealand.

Redefining convention with iconic practicality, Zambesi thus confirms its reputation of strength, beauty and independence.

After opening their first multi-brand store in 1976, the pair found it difficult to retain exclusivity of brands, so decided to produce their own collection alongside the brands they stocked, catering to where they saw a gap in the market. Deciding to follow the design and production side of the company was the best decision, according to Elisabeth.

“You believe in the entity you have created and continue giving it as much time as you can to develop and grow. It’s not an overnight success story but it is a story of success,” she said.

Zambesi garments can be characterised by an edgy dark beauty that is timeless and focuses on local identity and an individual sense of self.

Elisabeth designs the womenswear collections and loves to take unique fabrics in unexpected directions.

Iconic vintage cuts and fabrics are often given innovative interpretations that interplays hues, textures and weights. History and memory strongly contribute to Elisabeth’s attitude to design. Her clothes reflect both realism and imagination.

Meanwhile on the menswear front, Dayne Johnston takes a more disciplined hand. His work results in extremely well cut, wearable garments that capture attention with clever detailing. Those unique details sit alongside precisely tailored nods to traditional and utilitarian menswear, resulting in a refined masculine style.

For up and coming designers, Elisabeth urges them to not be afraid to design clothes that don’t fit the commercial culture and the fast fashion world.

“It is so important for designers and brands, whether new or established, to stay true to their vision and core beliefs, and to focus on their skills and strengths. It can be so easy for brands to question ‘what will sell’ and ‘will people want this’ so they tend to lose the very thing that people love about their brand. For those coming into the industry, they really need to passionately want it, otherwise they will find it really difficult,” she said.

Although Elisabeth would love to open a store in New York, Zambesi are always growing their local wholesale accounts and have made their home Australasian market a focal point.

“Focusing on your product and maintaining the business you have is really the success to growing your brand steadily. Everyone wants to grow their business and we have recently opened an online store and are focused on developing our social media channels.

“It is important though to retain your identity in the fast paced and changing times of the industry.”

For Zambesi, connecting with their audience and followers on a regular basis is important to let people see a full vision of the brand and to reach new audiences.

Collaborations are a part of the growth plan, and Zambesi have developed a new jewellery collection with Melbourne jewellery designer Maeve Woodhouse.

The collaborations flow through to the brand’s eyewear collections. The first collection is being produced in collaboration with Australian based eyewear designer and optician Joshua Matta.The latest collection is in development with famed British design house Linda Farrow.

Over the years, Zambesi has really inspired New Zealanders to try new things and get behind local brands. Mothers and daughters, fathers and sons is the broad demographic and many have grown up with the brand.

Bi-annual collections merge into one big collection where the customer feels familiar with the designs and aesthetic and can always find something totally wearable but with fresh and surprising additions along the way to look forward to.

Zambesi has flagship stores in New Zealand (Auckland and Wellington) and Australia (Melbourne). The label also supplies selected outlets throughout New Zealand, Australia and Japan.

To view Zambesi collections visit; www.ZAMBESIstore.com

You believe in the thing you have created and keep giving it as much time as you can to develop and grow.

It’s not an overnight success story but it is a story of success.

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I 19

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

CHALKBOARD AGENCIES APPAREL BRAND MANAGEMENT

CHALKBOARD Agencies, in some form or another, has been in the apparel business for more than 30 years. Today they specialise in apparel brand management and distribution throughout New Zealand for the middle to up-market fashion retail independents.

Headed up by Hannah Delowe and assisted by Kevin Findlay, the pair is proud to have a tight knit team that work closely to sell and manage the exciting labels under their umbrella.

The brands range from womenswear and high fashion, to streetwear and occasional wear. Passion for the brands they manage is key to their success in a rapidly growing marketplace.

Australian label PINK STITCH with its unique and ready to wear garments, Sydney based brand ELLIATT with the sophisticated edge and new sister label WALLFLOWER are just a few under the Chalkboard Agencies management.

These brands have recently taken on wellknown young and trendy label LADAKH, the beautiful BARIANO, BARIANO BRIDAL and sister label LUMIER, that have an elegant and feminine glamour to them. For information on these brands contact the friendly team at sales@ chalkboardagencies.com to discuss what label will work best within your store.

Chalkboard Agencies are excited to announce that they have secured the distribution of major Australian label Bariano and their sister label Lumier.

Bariano have been flourishing worldwide as they create captivating evening gowns and bridesmaid dresses that are designed to be comfortable yet glamorous and on trend. Lumier offers sophisticated everyday garments with the edge and elegant feel as the Bariano label.

Bariano have set up PR teams across America which has resulted in celebrities frequently wearing their garments on the red carpet and on television.

Giuliana Rancic is said to be a big fan of the sister label Lumier and she is seen on E! News wearing Lumier often.

I

09 589 7926 sales@chalkboardagencies.com www.chalkboardagencies.com

20 I September 2014

EDITD

Which shapes and garments will feature as SS15 trends?

By Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITD

THE second SS15 trend report shines light on the garments, themes, colors and prints with the biggest commercial potential. We’ve used historic data andrunway reports from previous seasons to plot the direction of consumer demand, ensuring garments and trends picked are optimised for the right timing with the best updates.

Look out for the following garments this month – you’ll know the designer is onto a good thing when you spot them!

SS15’S KEY SHAPES 1. Wide strides

Trousers will continue to get wider for SS15, in full length shapes, as well as the culottes. Culottes were adopted by retailers relatively late into SS14 and went on to do very well.

Prior to March 2014 there were barely any styles on the market, and though this picked up during March and April, we are certainly only seeing the early activity around this trend commercially. There’s currently 946 styles available online, with a healthy average price point of $137 (an indication that the trend hasn’t gone straight to the value market) and a replenishment rate of 14% on styles arriving for SS14.

Top retailers: The current top 5 retailers of this trend being ASOS, Boohoo, Saks Fifth Avenue, Topshop and Net-a-Porter is a positive sign too – a good intersection of mass and luxury retailers. We expect to see this trend used well by some of the heavyweight houses in Paris whose ethos is luxecasual.

2. Dungarees

Normally associated with summer seasons, the dungaree’s presence on the Fall runways of Margaret Howell, Wildfox Couture and Ashley Williams is a sign that we can guarantee the garment’s return for SS15. There are currently 1,307 pairs of women’s dungarees on the market at the average price point of $113.

Top retailers: The top five retailers of the dungarees trend being Zalando, Boohoo, Shopbop, ASOS and Nordstrom, positions this trend for the mass market next spring. Full-length dungarees in non-denim are the way to freshen up this look. We’ll be keeping a keen eye on the designers who blend urban and preppy in New York: DKNY, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein – will you take up the gauntlet?

3. Midi skirts

Ever since February (and with the exception of the summer sales period) midi skirts have rushed onto the market in SS14 – the chart shows clearly a huge build in number of products available now, compared to one year ago. With 3,622 currently in stock, and a high average price point of $157, this trend will feature heavily in the SS15 shows.

Top retailers: Midi skirts in scuba fabric have sold well for SS14 – both ASOS and Topshop have sold out of theirs at full price – ASOS’s color blocked scuba midi and Topshop’s tropical print scuba midi.

For SS15, midi skirts will be updated with sharp a-line fullness in bold colors, or with floral and striped prints. Milan’s feminine designers can be trusted to take on this trend in the next month.

the NUMBERS . . . GLOBAL GROWTH: The menswear industry is expected to exceed $402 billion worldwide by the end of 2014.

4. Ripped denim

Ripped denim is another bestselling trend for SS14, which came from relative obscurity and climbed late in the summer season.

Top retailers: Skinny jeans with ripped knees have been the most popular styles for the key retailers of the trend: ASOS, Topshop, Mango, Boohoo and River Island. We’d like to see designers add a premium edge by experimenting with looser fits shapes, and on denim garments like tunic dresses and light outerwear pieces. We will look to London’s pack of young street designers to fulfill this market opportunity.

Our next article reveals the key SS15 themes and colors.

By the end of 2014, the global childrenswear market is expected to reach more than $186 billion - a 15% increase in five years.

By 2015 the world bridalwear market is expected to reach the value of almost $57 billion.

SOURCE: Attire Club, Statistics 2013-2014

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I 21

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

HAILWOOD CELEBRATES 14 YEARS OF NZFW Designer Adrian Hailwood’s collections continue to hit new levels of creativity and wearability each year and he loves showing at NZ Fashion Week as it allows him to explore the entire creativity of the brand by using his own fabric designs, footwear and accessories on the catwalk. This year was Hailwood’s 14th year showing at the local event and the strong following he has gained over the years applauded it.

Starting off his career in advertising and graphic design, Hailwood quickly realised his design future when his t-shirts designed for commercial purpose gained a demand and he embraced the opportunity to move into the fashion industry.

Inspired by people, Hailwood is forever grateful for the backing he has had from Rick and Josephine Ball of Ball Agencies, who he calls Hailwood’s “sugar daddy and muma”.

Hailwood’s designs are packed with personality and designed to stay with its buyer for years to come. A great example of this is when a stranger approached him in a restaurant and told him that she still wore the dress she bought for her 21st birthday, twelve years on.

The downside to the fashion industry in his mind is the ‘now’ mindset of fast fashion consumers. He hopes people will think more ethically about their purchases and this may explain why his favourite part about fashion is the old world couture skills that create perfect handmade finishing’s to last a lifetime.

Jan Hare for Lisette L, jan@jda.co.nz 021 307 006, 09 307 0071 Ext 5

22 I September 2014

Adrian Hailwood with Josephine and Rick Ball

With Hailwood always looking to branch out into new areas like shoes, accessories and denim, it is no wonder why his customers are hooked on what Hailwood will do next.

Jan Hare for Hailwood, jan@jda.co.nz 021 307 006, 09 307 0071 Ext 5

The Hailwood range is stocked throughout New Zealand, Australia, United States and United Kingdom, with a flagship store open at 516 Karangahape Road in Auckland.

Jane Penny for Black Orchid jane@ballagencies.com, 09 303 3693 Ext 9

ETAILprofile

TRIANGL

Online swimwear retailer and brand TRIANGL has made huge waves across the world with its swimwear.

BASED out of Hong Kong, the swimwear brand came about after Erin Deering found herself without a bikini to wear for her second date with cofounder Craig Ellis which sparked conversation about a gap in the market catering to girls who wanted fashionable and affordable, quality swimwear.

Deering and Ellis then created the first design for the label that was a classic triangle bikini made from neoprene, which later became a signature fabric of the brand. Being unable to register the business name ‘Triangle’ the entrepreneurial couple dropped the ‘e’ and ran with it.

Design wise, Ellis is the expert with Deering taking care of social media channels, in particular – Instagram. The label’s account has just reached over 1.2 million followers from around the world.

Being only online, the pair are aware of the downside to not having a traditional bricks and mortar store or stockists and place importance on their online and social media strategy by being able to talk to their customers daily and answer any questions 24/7 using the Live Chat option on their site and email support.

“We always want to make sure we give our customers the best possible service, as well as receive direct feedback to be able to constantly improve our swimwear brand.

The con of being exclusively online is that our customers are not able to touch and feel our products, but we’re aware of it and don’t see it as an issue, since we are always available to help with sizing, colour/style advice or any questions or concerns our customers might have in our Live Chat,” said Josefine Sanfridsson, global public relations and press manager for the brand.

Exchanges for product are accepted with all returns managed out of HQ in Hong Kong, however it is at a cost to the consumer.

Popular styles for the brand include the Milly bikini that is a bra like style that suits all body types and is available in six colours made using the signature neoprene fabric.

As far as growth for the company, they already ship worldwide but would like to continue to spread brand awareness and develop the business into the best neoprene swimwear manufacturer on the market.

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I 23

BUYERS LOUNGE

liann bellis AW 2015 Collection Available now to view on www.apparelbuyerslounge.co.nz

liann bellis designs ltd. p: 64 3 544 9580 f: 64 3 544 9581

www.liannbellis.co.nz

24 I September 2014

Y R O T C A F R R A M WRAP UP

runway to the Week, The Marr Factory brought the IN the week leading up to NZ Fashion *D, Zambesi and NOM er, runway shows from Karen Walk bar at the Golden Dawn with intimate ntly with specialist patie ed wait ence audi the with chalk and Kate Sylvester. The runway was outlined Gingerella cocktails in hand. but Gingerella was d event with several high profile sponsors The Marr Factory was a highly anticipate Gingerella drink bottles a illustration graces All Good Organic’s the model of the moment. The Gingerell featured designer’s from ts n in full by James Stewart in key outfi but at the Marr fFactory she was draw shows. wearing a pink cocktail er, nonchalant in black for NOM*D, Young, willing and eager for Karen Walk d the style of the odie emb a erell dress for Kate Sylvester. Ging dress for Zambesi and in signature plaid nights - fresh, playful and bold.

Karen Walker Kate Sylvester

NOM*d

Zambesi apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 25

NEW ZEALAND FASHION WEEK FUR REAL CANDYFLOSS

Celine Rita

Andrea Moore

Lucy McIntosh

PINK was the colour of choice parading the runways this Fashion Week as designers look to create outfits that pay homage to a hue that falls in line with the perfect ladylike image. Andrea Moore presented a jacket dress in beautiful fuchsia that balances masculine tailoring with feminine details. From the ruffled sleeves to the slight billowing of the skirt bottom, Moore walks the delicate line between dress and suiting. Annah Stretton takes a more traditional feminine approach. This high-hemline sleeveless dress has elements of lingerie without being overly sexual, instead creating a flirty day dress topped off with a delicate flower on the shoulder. In a very light baby pink the look is sweet and accessible, not overpowered by detail, rather remaining simple and effortless for ease of wear. Taking a more tailored approach, Lucy McIntosh created a simple two-piece skirt suit contrasted with a soft baby pink colour as to play down the sharp lines. The look has elements of a classic Channel suit in that it takes two polar opposites and blends them into a fusion that functions as a timeless professional look for the Pia Boutique modern woman.

Annah Stretton

IT wouldn’t be winter without some fur, a long-standing trend amongst the most fashionable of the industry. Fur gloves were the standout piece for new designer Itzme, a classic and warm option for the winter months.

Taking a more edgy approach to her design, Kylie Mangan used fur in the neckline of this jacket, just one of the many textures featured throughout the collection. The beauty is that the fur brings an elegance and softness to the look, toning down the quilted sleeves and oversized shape of the jacket. Andrea Moore used fur in two ways in her collection, both as clothing and accessories. The full fur jacket in black and white stripe striking, but paired with a sleek leather pant the jacket transitions from ice queen to luxury coat in an instant. The classic fur shawl is made current with the introduction of chain closures to give the comfort of fur without looking dated. Paired with a sleek business handbag the model looks ready to take on the day as a professional woman wearing the height of fashion.

Kylie Mangan

Itzme

FASHION WEEK TREND REPORT Andrea Moore

SWEET BLOSSOM

FLORALS will never die; in fact they are a symbol of life.

Nothing will lighten the runway or inspire growth more than a beautiful floral print. Whether the collection be spring or autumn, florals still feature heavily across the Fashion Week collections, incorporated not only in print but in textile design as well. Celine Rita features a floral print across this entire dress in a shade that reads more autumn than spring. The colour holds onto the last remnants of the spring foliage, incorporating oranges found in the autumn leaves and deep purples of flowers laid Juliette to rest for the winter. In a more subtle Hogan approach, Juliette Hogan sticks with the age-old tradition of black in winter whilst Trelise incorporating a floral applique to a sheer Cooper dress over a simple playsuit. The dress reads elegance and style, with high quality handwork on a delicate overdress fabric. Hailwood isn’t a brand to produce overly feminine pieces, but still managed to include a floral print in this look. What could have been an overpowering placement flower print is played down by a classic biker jacket and skinny jeans – both in black – to reappropriate what is normally seen as feminine into something that can now be described as punk and cool.

26 I September 2014

Andrea Moore

Juliette Hogan

Celine Rita

Hailwood

Lucy McIntosh

Trelise Cooper

Juliette Hogan

Salasai

Celine Rita Andrea Moore

SINGULAR AN essential in every wardrobe, jumpsuits are the epitome of comfort and style in a fast paced society. When it comes to a good jumpsuit fit is key, followed closely by style. There’s no escaping an ill-fitting jumpsuit, with no amount of appliqué or detail able to distract from what could quite possibly be a wardrobe malfunction. Celine Rita offers up a more structured jumpsuit than what has been seen previously. Opting for a harder fabric to really nail the fit.

With the hem cut just above the ankle, the model looks all legs, elongating the whole body for a powerful look. Juliette Hogan went for a more simplistic cut and soft fabric in her jumpsuit, amped up with a floral print in a dark tone. The suit moves with the model, falling beautifully on her body. Hogan cuts the hem just above the ankle to give extra leg for a towering figure.

From delicate silk to stiff denim, Stolen Girlfriends Club created a full denim jumpsuit complete with rolled hem.

Following in-line with the brand’s image of a hard rock girl, the suit references the traditional dungaree – much loved in New Zealand history – and pushes it to the next level. For additional detail appliqué arrows are placed across the piece, separating it from a simple denim jumpsuit and aligning it with the brand identity.

Stolen Girlfriends Club

Lela Jacobs

Lucy McIntosh

Celine Rita Juliette Hogan

NOM*d

WHITE WASH

A TREND that compliments all women, white has featured heavily across nearly all collections this Fashion Week. Whether it be spring or winter, each designer has found a way to use a classic pristine colour to liven up their looks. Celine Rita uses a delicate hand to structure a full white outfit that incorporates shear elements and beautifully draped fabrics. The overall effect is fluid, elegant and light. Weighed down with a metallic necklace and contrasting black shoes the outfit appears balanced and well structured, clearly demonstrating Rita’s keen eye for detailing. Notoriously black and layered, NOM*d takes their design principles and translates them into a bleached out version of the brand’s style. Using different shades of white allow for the successful layering of pieces which is a clear staple for NOM*d designs. Although the outfit is all white, proportions and fabric cut instil the idea of an indie way of styling, keeping in line with the rest of NOM*d’s body of work.

It’s easy to lose the power of structure when working with white, however Pardon My French do an excellent job of taking a colour that demands a light touch and turning it into a top that retains Salasai structural elements whilst remaining true to the needs of such a powerful colour.

Pardon My French

Pia Boutique

Trish Peng

apparelmagazine.co.nz

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