Apparel Magazine // September 2015

$ behind the business9.00

SEPTEMBER 2015 I VOL 48 I NO 9

NZFW REPORT pg 14

12 16 20 26

04

NEWS

BEAUTY NEWS

COLOUR TRENDING EDUCATION

THE INDUSTRY ACCORDING TO . . .

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FASHIONABLE

EDITOR’S letter Another fashion week done and dusted, revealing all the latest and greatest projects from various New Zealand designers both up-and-coming and well established.

The NZ Apparel team were on hand to cover all the behind the scenes and runway shots that are available to view on our website, as well as inside this issue.

It is great to see that some of New Zealand’s top fashion talent will be showing at Vancouver Fashion Week this year including Liann Bellis, Frances Jerrard and Carmen Kristein. We are pleased to announce that we will be streaming all of the shows live on our website.

This issue features a new section called Success Under 30 (pg24) that profiles a young up-and-coming industry go-getter, with our first interviewee Maggie Lankshear from adidas.

Our photoshoot this month features glasses from philanthropic brand TOMS, who will be running their campaign for World Sight Day. Being leaders of the One for One movement, TOMS supports annually to raise awareness about blindness and visual impairment.

The purchase of TOMS Eyewear helps to restore sight to someone in need, allowing them to fully experience the world.

Since launching the Eyewear in 2011, TOMS has restored sight to over 325,000 people in need

through sight saving surgery, prescription glasses and medical treatment. TOMS Eyewear helps to restore economic opportunity, education, gender equality and independence.

TOMS works with a network of 14 Giving Partners in 13 countries to help provide communities in need with access to eye care.

This World Sight Day, TOMS is celebrating supporters of One for One through TOMS Eyewear and asking retailers to raise awareness about the importance of giving sight help those in need using the #givesight hashtag on social media.

READS TRUE STYLE: The History and

Hope you have a great month.

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

Priciples of Classic Menswear

By G. Bruce Boyer ON THE COVER:

Garments by Arrow Uniforms PHOTOGRAPHER: Caitlan Mitchell MODEL: Ruby at Unique HAIR & MAKEUP: Clare Hendra

True Style provides a crisp, indispensable primer for cataloguing the essential elements of the male wardrobe and showcasing how to best employ them. The witty, stylish prose implemented by Boyer breezes through timeless items and traditions in menswear, detailing the evolution, and educating on the best uses of fabrics like denim and linen.

The book is enlightening; communicating the best circumstances for donning a turtleneck and declaims the evils of wearing dress shoes without socks.

the NUMBERS . . .

Most of the textiles industry in NZ is based in Auckland, Canterbury, and Manawatu-Wanganui regions.

GLOSS: The Work of Chris von Wangenheim In 2012 the global apparel market was valued at US$1.7 trillion and employed 75 million people.

Australia is the largest export market for NZ textiles USA is the second.

World exports of textiles and clothing in 2013 were valued at US$766 billion.

Monique McKenzie - monique@reviewmags.com

ADVERTISING SALES

Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com

Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com

SENIOR DESIGNER

Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com

2 I September 2015

Gloss is the first culmination of infamous photographer Chris von Wangenheim, whose work encapsulated the glamour and excess of the 1970s whilst reflecting on the fashionable underworld living life on the edge.

Exploring sex, violence and danger, Wagenheim shocked the world in an eye opening display of the sexual revolution, punk and porn. The book is made up of over two hundred provocative and iconic images, inclusing never-before-seen pictures of supermodels Christie Brinkley, Lisa Taylor, and the late Gia Carangi.

India’s exports of clothing and textiles have increased 23 percent in the last three years.

FACE PAINT: The Story of Makeup

In 2013 clothes exported from China totaled US$177.4 billion.

PUBLISHER Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com EDITOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Thomas Fowler - tommie@reviewmags.com

By Mauricio Padilha & Roger Padilha

PHOTOGRAPHER Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com ADMINISTRATION MANAGER Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.

By Lisa Eldridge An illuminating narrative of makeup, Lisa Eldridge explores the history of what would seem to be a relatively new commodity. Face Paint goes beyond the 100 years of commercial makeup and looks at the historical practices of face and body decoration, a practice that reaches back to some of the oldest known communities. Eldridge looks into Egyptian, Classical, Victorian and the golden age of Hollywood whilst surveying the cutting-edge makeup science of both today and tomorrow. Delving deeper, Face Paint explores not only the practical elements, but also the idiosyncratic reasons behind makeups use.

The book serves as a history of style but also a critique into the history of women, bringing new understanding to the feminine practice.

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Be alerted when new brands and collections are uploaded.

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news

VANCOUVER FASHION WEEK RETURNS

TIFFANY AND CO COMES TO AUCKLAND

Internationally renowned jeweller, Tiffany & Co has announced plans to open its first company-operated retail store in New Zealand. The store will be located in Auckland’s Britomart, the city’s premier destination for luxury shopping and a prime heritage location. The 430sqm store will occupy the entire ground floor of Australis House, at 36-38 Customs Street in Auckland and is expected to open late 2016.

“We are very excited to introduce Tiffany & Co to New Zealand and launch with a magnificent store in Auckland,” said Glen Schlehuber, vice president and managing director. “We have many loyal Tiffany customers in New Zealand and have been looking to establish a presence for some time, and the location at Britomart is perfect. We look forward to welcoming everyone to experience our iconic jewellery collections, heritage and craftsmanship that have distinguished Tiffany for over 175 years.” The store’s interior will feature archival motifs symbolic of Tiffany’s great heritage of quality and design excellence. Auckland will be Tiffany’s first company-operated retail presence in New Zealand, complementing its current DFS trade partner location nearby. In addition, Tiffany & Co maintains seven stores in Australia.

This year will see Vancouver Fashion Week return for its 26th consecutive season.

Running from September 28 to October 4, VFW will showcase a range of designer’s SS16 collections to media, buyers and agents.

Founded in 2001, producer Jamal Abdourahman has since turned the event into the West Coast’s most prestigious event that actively seeks out international talent to showcase.

With over 70 different designers registered to show, VFW will feature returning favourites Shravan Kumar, Green Embassy and local designers Eliza Faulkner and Alex S Yu. Joining the locals is acclaimed international brands AMERI (Japan) and Cannella Hostal Couture (Dubai). New Zealand brands Frances Jerrard, Liann Bellis and Carmen Kirstein will be showing at the event.

NINE WEST ARRIVES IN AUCKLAND

Sophisticated New York footwear brand Nine West is set to open their flagship boutique this month at Westfield Newmarket. Here to shake up the shoe and accessory scene, the international retailer entered the New Zealand market earlier this year with a store at Westfield Riccarton in Christchurch. Nine West has been at the intersection of fashion and city-chic style since its inception in New York in 1978. Four decades on, the brand continues to lead as the goto destination for on-trend footwear and accessories for the modern woman.

“We opened the first Australian Nine West store back in 1995 and we haven’t stopped since,” said Nine West brand manager, Kelli Sharp.

“Today, with more than 60 stand alone stores across Australia, we are delighted to be crossing the Tasman so New Zealand shoppers can enjoy Nine West on home soil.” The brand unveiled its latest global advertising campaign in August, shot by Camilla Akrans at Roosevelt Island, starring international top model Nadja Bender and styled by iconic stylist Julia Von Boehm. The Nine West flagship store in Westfield Newmarket will launch with the Spring Summer 2015 collection in mid-September.

4 I September 2015

ONE IDEA, ONE T-SHIRT, ONE GOAL

New Zealand’s most experimental ideas brand, WORLD, is the first fashion house in the world to have designed a t-shirt from the largest and most important organisation on the planet, the United Nations. The historical event, the 17 Global Goals will be launched later this month to the world in New York, an event attended by President Barack Obama as well as 100 world leaders and UN ambassadors.

“Since our inception in 1989, it has always been part of WORLD’s philosophy to give back, as our company has grown, so has the importance of our awareness and support for local and international charitable organisations,” said owner Francis Hooper. The Global Goals are a 15 year plan, and WORLD feels humanitarian awareness needs to start young, and its t-shirts are starting at newborn, so by the conclusion of the project, the youngest supporter now, will be 15 years old, and grown up knowing the value of being philanthropic.

This t-shirt project will go down as part of history for both WOLRD and the United Nations. Twenty percent of all sales of the t-shirts will be donated to the United Nations. Consumers can post pictures in the t-shirt using #worldbrandglobalgoals.

news

WAREHOUSE OPENS SMALLEST STORE

New Zealand’s largest retailer, The Warehouse has opened its smallest store in Customs Street, specifically for customers collecting online purchases. Unlike the usual large suburban stores, the retailer’s new store is a pop up store just 30sqm with no inventory on its shelves, that serves as a collect store for customers using its click and collect site. Customers are also able to shop at the store, but using the store’s Endless Aisles service, paying by credit or debit card as the store is cashless. Currently available in all The Warehouse stores, the Endless Aisles innovation links checkouts with its website and enables all stores to access the full range online and make that available to customers at checkout.

“If you’re at home in the evening, but work in the city, you can shop after work, knowing you can pick up from Customs Street the next day during a break from work,” said chief digital officer at The Warehouse, Craig Jordan. New Zealand online sales at The Warehouse Group have grown from $18.8 million in 2011 to $149.2 million in 2015. Jordan believes that the “clicks and bricks” retail model is proving to be more effective than just online.

EXPERT HAND FOR THE SHELTER

Specialist supplier of steel manufacturing, engineering and pressing, Designsteel played a massive role in the fit out of new retailer, The Shelter. Long time retailer and Taylor designer, Vicki Taylor had a clear direction for her new retail endeavour, turning to Designsteel to help execute her designs in the same clean and professional style her brand has come to be known for. The Shelter is just one of many clients Designsteel has on its list, having already worked with companies including Air New Zealand, Fisher & Paykel, Placemakers, Foodstuffs, Interlock Industries and Carter Holt Harvey. Working alongside the strong vision of designer Vicki Taylor, Designsteel owner Brett Hollander utilised his extensive experience to bring Taylor’s ideas to life. Turning, grinding, milling, drilling, tapping and welding are just a short list of the services Designsteel offer to its clients, channelling 44 years of business into executing an array of creative projects. “Our services cover one-off commissions to multi-process components in production quantities, with some of the most skilled engineers and craftsmen fabricators in the business. We’re ready to go on any project you throw at us – and build to any specification,” said Hollander.

SAKAGUCHI LABEL CLOSES DOWN

WORLD OPEN NEW PONSONBY STORE

After 22 years on Ponsonby Road with its fashion stores and beauty stores being separated, top New Zealand brand WORLD has now combined both stores into its large, new premises at 179 Ponosnby Road. Located in the iconic heritage space, on the corner of Franklin and Ponsonby Roads, the latest luxury boutique is in keeping with WORLD’s latest retail developments.

The space combines modernity, colour, antiques and collectables and is set around the lit marble window walls opposite the brightly hued Piet Mondrian inspired wall. WORLD has created an intimate and elegant private boutique emporium. The beauty department within the store has been extended, with clean and modern floating shelves that appear to levitate from the walls. New objet d’art from expert Meredith Lee of European Antiques include items from France, Russia and Italy that nestle easily with the modern neon art from artist Otis Frizzell.

The store opened with the new Spring Summer Collection 15/16 for both men and women and includes the largest and most extensive collection of luxury niche fragrances including Creed, Amouge, Orto Parisi and Arquiste. WORLD continues to exclusively carry the entire Aesop hair and skincare range in New Zealand.

After 17 years in business both manufacturing and retailing, Christchurch based Sakaguchi is to close its doors. “This decision has not been made lightly,” said owner Takaaki Sakaguchi.

“Times are very tough for independent labels, and I am sad to say this wonderful adventure has reached a point where I feel I must take a break and I need distance to think how to develop my brand for the future.”

Sakaguchi would like to take some time and focus more on artistic and creative designs rather than the commercial mainstream and look back to his Japanese heritage and the classic designs from the 80s as to those of Comme des garcon’s, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto. “I would like to open again a small boutique in the future focusing on more creative and clever designs and import a few European brands from Belgium and Germany.” The designer is currently developing a new label called Ginger under a local Christchurch based fashion house that will be ready in time for winter 2016.

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behind the business

ANNAH STRETTON FOR RYMAN HEALTHCARE A new era of uniforms hit the Fashion Week runway this month thanks to a unique partnership between Ryman Healthcare, Arrow Uniforms and designer Annah Stretton.

Twenty-five models walked the runway modeling Annah Stretton’s new designs for Ryman Healthcare. They were nurses, caregivers, administrators, maintenance workers and housekeeping staff. The design brief for Stretton and her team was simple, the uniforms were to be comfortable, practical and beautiful.

Ryman wanted garments that brought a smile to the faces of residents, increased the level of pride in what staff wear and emphasised the vital role they play in the residents’ lives. With a fashion look, the new uniform will enhance Ryman’s position as the premium health care provider across the New Zealand and Australian markets.

Des Ford, Arrow Uniforms managing director, said although the garments are fashion pieces in their own right, practicality and functionality has been paramount in the design. He said the uniforms needed to work well everyday across all tasks people undertake. The new range covers everyone from front office to caregivers and maintenance.

Ryman have been working with Arrow Uniforms for the past 20 years and over that time there have been many changes in the clothing sector. Ford said this new uniform ushers in a new look in the uniform sector and also state of the art fabric technology. “Uniforms have changed considerably over the last 25 years and fabrics are now much more technical and practical,” said Ford. “Long gone are the days of stiff and starchy uniforms made of fabric that fades. The new generation of fabrics are breathable, comfortable, have built in stretch for comfort.”

He said the new generation printing techniques also allow for vibrancy, retention of colour and ease of care that wasn’t possible 25 years ago. Ford said one of the key requirements today is for people to look and feel good on the job.

“The new range of Ryman garments delivers that in spades. It has been such an exciting project for the Arrow team to be a part of and we are so pleased Ryman have allowed us to be part of this journey.”

6 I September 2015

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BARKERS X LIBERTY

New Zealand menswear brand Barkers has announced its latest collaboration with Liberty London that is to be sold throughout stores and online. For over 150 years, Liberty London has created the most striking art fabrics and the company has rightly become highly sort after by the garment trade.

Barkers will run limited edition Liberty print shirts, ties, bow ties and pocket squares. The shirt and accessory range will be the most luxurious range Barkers have ever produced. The pieces will be sold exclusively in the Barkers High St, Newmarket, Albany, Wellington and Riccarton stores, as well as online.

HILFIGER TAPS NADAL Top men’s tennis star Rafael Nadal has been announced as the new brand ambassador for Tommy Hilfiger underwear and tailored clothing as well as a new men’s fragrance, TH Bold. According to Hilfiger, the brand is relaunching its underwear business this autumn(US) after 20 years in the business. The relaunch will feature new, more technical products, including a four-way stretch microbfibre with a sleek waistband. “Because we’re so global now, Rafael Nadal resonates globally in most countries in the world,” said Hilfiger. “He also looks amazing in the underwear and the clothes, without being doctored up, that’s the real guy.” Nadal has signed a two-year agreement with the brand.

COACH MENSWEAR AT SELFRIDGES

American powerhouse Coach has expanded its offering with its first ever menswear line. The new readyto-wear collection for A/W’15 will be

available as part of an exclusive retail partnership with Selfridges.

After making its debut at London Collections Men in January the collection has been greatly anticipated by consumers. Under the watchful eye of Coach’s British creative director Stuart Vevers and the clothes reflect the relaxed street style of New York, where the company was founded. The collection includes a range of trans-seasonal pieces, shearling jackets, sleek khaki leather bombers, longer coat styles and a selection of camo printed goods.

BECKHAM TO LAUNCH APPAREL LINE

A new exclusive five-year agreement with high-end luxury retailer Kent & Curwen will see soccer superstar David Beckham play a multifaceted role in expanding the British brand’s appeal to younger consumers. The brand, owned by Trinity International Brands Ltd, has said Beckham will be involved in all aspects of the brand’s business, including product development, market expansion, advertising and store design and location. The terms of the deal will see the retailer exclusively stocking Beckahm’s own

MENSWEARnews

TAILORED FOR MEN

line. “I’m always looking to work with brands and companies that have a rich history and authenticity,” said Beckham. Currently, Kent and Curwen operate 113 stores in 51 cities including China, Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan.

Talkshow host Ellen DeGeneres announced during a pop-up event at Bergdorf Goodman and a private dinner with guests such as Kim Kardashian, Pharrell Williams and Justin Timberlake that she is going into the menswear and furniture business. This follows her recent launch of ED by Ellen a womenswear line and webshop.

DeGeneres is currently travelling through Europe collecting her ideas and inspirations. “Ellen is like

literally the most on-it, exciting, passionate person in every category,” said business partner Chris Burch. “Her taste level, creativity, desires and curiosity are awesome. She is always sending pictures and always wanting to tweak things. A twist to a shoe or clothing but it’s got to be true to who she is. I had no idea the attention and the creativity she would bring to these things,” Burch told the media.

#fannypack

8 I September 2015

Global sourcing in Melbourne

Apparel. Accessories. Textiles.

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MARCHESA TO RELEASE FOOTWEAR LINE After recently announcing plans to design a range of jewellery, the luxury eveningwear brand has said it will also release a full line of footwear.

Led by British design duo Georgina Chapman and Karen Craig, the range will include a selection of flats and high heels, spanning across a variety of fabrics including napa, alligator, water snake and python. Expansion into jewellery and footwear is part of a larger plan for Marchesa to provide a full lifestyle offering, which now included handbags and fragrances.

“We’ve always envisioned Marchesa

as a lifestyle brand and including a full shoe collection is an important part of that vision. Customers and retailers alike have requested we expand into footwear so it’s incredibly exciting to have found a partner who can help us fulfil that goal,” said Chapman. Marchesa has partnered with footwear and accessory licenser AKH Group for the collection, a company that has recently worked with big name designers like Maiyet, Soloviere, and Cecelia New York. The range is set to debut during Marchesa’s Spring/Summer 2016 New York Fashion Week show.

ADIDAS TO RELEASE SNAKE INSPIRED SHOE

The iconic Superstar silhouette has received a makeover with the announcement of the Superstar XENO Silver. Inspired by the Southeast Asian snake, the Xenopeltis, the shoe takes its look from the iridescent scales of the snake, which in natural light appear silver, but when photographed with flash show a rainbow variety of colour.

FOOTWEARnews

COVETED KANYE SHOES OFFERED FOR NEW KIDNEY

Recently released and sold out Yeezy Boost 350’s have been offered in exchange for a new liver. American Matt Neal has been on dialysis for two years and his worsening condition prompted him to call out for help. In exchange for a new liver, Neal offered his personal pair of the Kanye West x Adidas designed Yeezy Boost 350 which have sold out internationally.

The call for help was so popular that it caught the attention of West himself, with the hip-hop star and fashion icon offering Neal a brand new pair to replace the ones he gives away.

WINDSOR SMITH TO OPEN FIRST INTERNATIONAL STORE

After almost 70 years in business, Australian footwear retailer Windsor Smith is looking to expand its physical retail presence outside Australia. The family run business is now in its fourth generation and said it is looking at possible retail locations in London for its first ever store outside Australia, another step in the companies on-going global expansion. “It really is a global market, with consumers buying online. We just try and stay ahead of the game,” said chief executive, Craig Mance. Introducing women’s shoes almost four years ago, Mance said the company has experienced incredible growth, with close to 60% of sales coming from female customers and the company doubling in size over the last five years. “My children have joined the company over the last three or four years and they’ve been instrumental in its continued success, especially my daughter Bronte, in styling the women’s shoes. They’re having a ball,” said Mance.

www.frostex.co.nz

Fashion • Corporate • Manchester

10 I September 2015

footwear news

HEAT MOULDED FLIPFLOPS TAKE OFF ON KICKSTARTER

New footwear brand Foot Flops have launched a custom moulded flip flop design on Kickstarter with great response.

Having already reached half its goal, Foot Flops hopes to change the flip-flop market by providing footwear options that are custom and comfortable. The new offering is led by design trio, Tom Fay, Jamie Mackay and Wes White, targeting both men and women with a range that spans across 12 different colour options.

“We want to revolutionise the flip flop industry by bringing a durable, fashionable, heat-mouldable flip flop to market,” Foot Flops co-founder, Tom Fay said. “Flip flops and sandals haven’t been significantly redesigned for comfort since the Greeks created them. We are bringing modern innovations and materials to this classic invention.” Inspired by their time on the ski slopes, the team at Foot Flops use patent-pending HEAT technology to mould the shoe exactly to the shape of the foot. Additionally, for each pair purchased, Foot Flops will donate a pair to its charity the Walk Tall Foundation that helps provide shoes to children in third world countries. “It’s imperative that children in second and third world countries also have adequate foot wear,” said Jamie Mackay, Foot Flops co-founder.

HELLABY LOOKS TO SELL OFF FOOTWEAR UNITS

NZX listed diversified investment company; Hellaby Holdings has said it will look to sell off its footwear division. After reporting a profit return of $23.3million in 2015, the Auckland based company said the footwear division, which includes Hannahs and Number One Shoes, is no longer a core part of its business and will look into divesting the two companies at an appropriate time. Both Hannahs and Number One Shoes have struggled with the on-going pressure of online retail trends, forcing the two companies to reconsider business models in order to remain profitable, however reported a decline in annual earnings of 6.5%.

UGG AUSTRALIA POPS UP IN AMERICA A duo of temporary stores in Boston and Elizabeth, N.J. have popped up, both featuring Infinite Ugg. The seamless online integration gives customers access to an endless aisle of merchandise not found in store. Both stores will over 500 to 550 SKUS including a product range of footwear, loungewear, handbags and accessories, with the stores set to remain open

until early 2016. “Boston and the New York City metro represent two important regions for Ugg so we feel the addition of these pop-up locations will make the brand more accessible to consumers as they seek out their favourite back-to-school and holiday shopping items,” said Gerard Marceda, VP of North America retail for parent company Deckers Brands.

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BEAUTYnews PANASONIC PICKS UP BEAUTY GAME

Despite not being top of mind for consumers when thinking of beauty, Panasonic has announced it will launch a new Micro-Foaming Cleansing Device in October to further develop its current beauty offerings. The tool contains a Japanese-style soft brush that is designed to purify on one end, while on the opposite end, a makeup remover plate that heats up via two temperature settings. It also comes with a small pore-targeting silicone brush head for the T-zone area.

A small compartment within the device allows users to pour in a foaming cleanser. “Having been known for being such a TV-focused brand for several years, the leadership has decided to say we have to start growing and expanding and relying on our other product lines,” said Corrie Murphy, vice president of consumer marketing and beauty, Panasonic USA. “Beauty is one of the strategic growth areas for us.”

ECOYA PRESENTS CHRISTMAS COLLECTION

The new Christmas collection by fragrance house Ecoya is returning for the festive season. The iconic and sell-out fragrance, Fresh Pine Needles, is back in the collection for the fourth year as well as the introduction of the new Christmas limited edition fragrance, Sweet Fruits & Pink Champagne. The two Christmas fragrances are available in both the Ecoya Madison Jar and the newly released Mini Madison Jar. In new packaging and housed in contemporary crisp white vessels, the Fresh Pine Needles candles come capped with polished gold lids and are presented in metallic gold cartons. The Sweet Fruits & Pink Champagne candles come capped with rose gold lids and are presented in rose gold cartons. Both boxes are wrapped in an intricate hand drawn, laser cut sleeve inspired by international catwalks.

Completing the Christmas collection, the gift sets are available in the classic Ecoya fragrances of Sweet Pea & Jasmine and Lotus Flower and available in two different offerings. The body care gift pack includes the Hand & Body Wash and Hand & Body Lotion. Housed in dusty pink and soft blue boxes, the gift packs also feature the same intricate laser cut sleeves as the candles. The smaller gift set includes a Hand Cream and Mini Reed Diffuser, also in the iconic Sweet Pea & Jasmine and Lotus Flower fragrances. Ecoya candles are handcrafted from natural waxes with 100% cotton wicks, while the hypoallergenic body care collection uses botanical bases.

GHD AND VENSETTE HAIR PARTNERSHIP

Specialising in high-end hair and makeup services, beauty service provider Vensette has teamed up with luxury hair tool company GHD for a six-month exclusive partnership. Vensette’s 200 stylists in New York, Los Angeles, Miami and San Francisco will be using GHD tools on clients, as well as GHD hairdryers and curling irons. “GHD tools are the ones I use myself, so I wanted to bring them to everyone who uses our service,” said Lauren Remington Platt, chief executive officer and founder of Vensette.

It is Vensette’s first hair-related partnership, having just wrapped up a six-month partnership with high-end colour cosmetics brand Cle de Peau. “The artists will be using our new GHD Platinum Styler, which provides great flexibility.

We have a patented wishbone hinge which allows stylists to straighten, curl and wave hair, with less breakage,” said Francesca Raminella, North American president of GHD. Clients can book Vensette either online or on its app, and because bookings can be done on two different platforms, the company is growing 400 percent year-over-year. The number of clients doubled at the end of 2014 and the company has a total reach of 100,000 subscribers in four markets.

RICHIE TEAMS UP WITH BIRCHBOX

Reality star Nicole Richie has teamed up with Birchbox to create an exclusive box containing five deluxe beauty samples that reflect the theme of her TV show, Candidly Nicole. To celebrate the show’s second season, Birchbox’s collaboration with the reality star and VH1 includes a product assortment of Dr Brandt Microdermabrasion, LAQA Cheeky Lip Tints in Humble Brag, a shade from the OPI Venice Collection, Rene Furterer Lissea Leave-In Smoothing Fluid and St Tropez Gradual Tan In Shower Lotion.

“Nicole Richie is a free spirit that breaks the mold with her ever-changing hair colour and evolving style. That strong sense of individuality is something we truly value here at Birchbox, so we are proud to support her show,” said Katia Beauchamp, Birchbox cofounder and chief executive officer. The launch of the Candidly Nicole Birchbox will coincide with the premiere of the second season of Candidly Nicole, and subscribers can select to receive the limited-edition collection. It’s also available for purchase as a stand-alone item on Birchbox.com.

mannequin of the month

SMITH AND CAUGHEYS Queen St, Auckland

Kenwood collaborated with three top fashion designers, Trelise Cooper, Andrea Moore and twenty-seven names to bring edible couture to life, resulting in delectable results on display in the Smith and Caughey’s Queen Street window. The grand designs are real-life representations of the designers’ unique visions of Sweet Couture and have been crafted using icing and fondant. Trelise Cooper’s lacy creation ‘Let them Eat Cake’, transports shoppers to the Palace of Versailles and is in-line with the spring collection, that delights the senses with a feast of buttercream, pink champagne and lace as fine as spun sugar. Twenty-seven names ‘riot dress’ is from Russia, with love.

Taking inspiration from the riotous debut of Stravinsky’s groundreaking ballet, the floor length gown is adorned with a folk art-inspired floral motif drawn by designer Rachel easting, and re-created in decadent icing. Andrea Moore’s ‘The Fortune Dress’ is an edible version of the dress by the same name from her SS15 collection.

12 I September 2015

beauty news

ALBA HIT WITH LAWSUIT

Actor Jessica Alba’s The Honest Company has been hit with a consumer filed class action lawsuit against it claiming the products that are described as “natural” actually contain synthetic chemicals such as Methylisothiazolinone and Phenoxyethanol. The complaint lists that products from the company are “deceptively and misleading labelled and marketed”. Jonathan Rubin is seeking damages of at least $5 million and asks that all the profits generated from sales of the products listed be refunded to consumers.

MURAD PRESENTS RAPID TREATMENT

Murad’s Rapid Collagen Infusion for Lips is a new treatment formulated with specialised ingredients to reduce the appearance of vertical lip lines and wrinkles, increase volume and provide long-lasting hydration to lips. Designed for use directly on the lips as well as around the entire mouth area, the nonsticky formula goes on clear. The lightweight anti-aging lip treatment is specifically formulated to combat the visible signs of aging on and around the lips while restoring youthful structure over time. The formula features an antiaging peptide blend that delivers micronized collagen amino acids to plump fine lines and wrinkles. The translucent serum promotes natural collagen and elastin production for lasting resilience. Mushroom Sprout Extracts encourage microcirculation to enhance volume, Apple Extracts impart skin with longlasting hydration while Shea Butter and Hyaluronic Acid balance moisture levels to provide superior absorption and application. “While smiling and laughing can contribute to the formation of lines and wrinkles around the lip area, I believe this expression of happiness is one of the more important parts of our wellbeing,” said Howard Murad, founder of Murad, Inc.

EVOLU INTRODUCES NEW TRIPLE-ACTION SPOT CRISIS CONTROL GEL

Evolu has introduced its new Triple-Action Spot Crisis Control gel.

Made with some of New Zealand’s finest natural ingredients, the new formula is designed to cleanse, reduce and soothe blemishes and imperfections and combat redness and soreness. The gel works to clean the affected area with specifically formulated Manuka Honey and Totarol ingredients to prevent further spots appearing and speeding up the healing process. Lentil Seed extracts work to regulate sebum and calm inflamed pores while active ingredients reduce redness and work to control and help diminish the appearance and size of the breakout. Aloe Vera and Kawakawa ingredients work to soothe the spot from soreness, itchiness and visible inflammation.

Designed to slot into daily skincare routines, the gel is suitable for men and women of all skin types. The range is cruelty free and contains no parabens, petrochemicals, minerals, phthalates, sulfates, artificial colours or fragrances, and no animal products other than beeswax.

KESTER BLACK RELEASES PARDON AND LUCKY

Kester Black has released its first ever duo of Soap-Free Liquid Hand and Body Wash, Pardon and Lucky. Pardon is scented with cedar and amber, thyme oil and bergamot. Lucky is enriched with a velvety caramel scent and a hint of vanilla.

Both new products are a permanent addition to the range. All Kester Black products are vegan friendly and come with Choose Cruelty Free (CCF), Cruelty Free International and Vegan Society accreditations.

WHY SPEND MONEY ON WAREHOUSING WHEN YOU COULD SPEND IT ON FASHION? In the garment business, warehousing can be a necessary evil. But if you use our storage facilities you’ll be saving capital that can be better deployed elsewhere in your business. Choose from our bulk warehousing service, or ask about our complete pick face solution to streamline your logistics.

www.candf.co.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 13

KATE SYLVESTER

SEAN KELLY

KATE SYLVESTER

ANDREA MOORE

SEAN KELLY

THIRD FORM

TWENTYSEVEN

LUCILLA GRAY

SEAN KELLY

ITSZME

14 I September 2015

NZ WEDDINGS

ANDREA MOORE

NZFW REPORT

KATE SYLVESTER

ZAMBESI

TWENTYSEVEN

ZAMBESI

NZ WEDDINGS

HARMAN GRUBISA

HARMAN GRUBISA

RUBY

STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS

I 15

apparelmagazine.co.nz

HAILWOOD

RUBY

FRENCH83

STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS

behind the business

NZFW REPORT

colour trending

W

hen inspiration can’t be found at home, and international influences are exhausted, there’s only one other place to look.

An ever mysterious and dense source of speculation, the galaxy provides designers with enough imaginative push and colour combinations to produce spectacular garments that look other-worldly but drive commercial success on earth.

Zuhair Murad began his career in 1999, debuting a collection inspired entirely from his time stargazing as a child. Revisiting his original creative spark, the latest couture offering is an updated look at how space continues to influence his work.

“I like the idea of travelling through the heavens. It’s something you only see at night,” said Murad. With heavy influence on crystals and embellishment, Murad takes the majority of his inspiration from the sparkling stars seen only at night, with the pièce de résistance wedding gown weighing in at 20 kilos made up of 10,000 crystal stars and sequins individually applied by 20 seamstresses.

According to Murad, the gown, similar in colour to Resene Quarter Thorndon Cream is best suited for some of his big name clients including Beyonce, Katy Perry and Taylor Swift.

Saturated in pinks and blues throughout, the Armani Privé couture collection was a showcase of punk motifs against a feminine colour palette. The result was incredibly galactic, with the Swarovski crystals sparking like stars and colours similar to Resene Elvis and Resene Studio wrapping around each other like the Milky Way on the catwalk. Whilst it might not appear at first glance, this year’s Chanel couture offering harnesses subtle space style elements, from

Colours available from

Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363

the dramatic styling of its models to the deeply futuristic footwear choices.

There’s no escaping the classic Chanel suit, but this year the sparkle in the tweed and the deep red wool running through the weave pay homage to some key galactic elements. The deep phosphorous colour seen in space is mimicked in this two piece classic skirt suit, similar in colour to Resene Red Oxide, woven together with a synthetic yarn that sparkles as it hits the light, evoking visions of the stars much like that of Armani’s collection.

Alongside the usual floral prints featured throughout its various collections over the years, Valentino paired up with British textile designer Celia Birtwell to conceptualise a range of interstellar print ideas for the pre-fall collection.

Also responsible for its iconic floral prints in the 70’s, Birtwell put together a selection of designs that transported the collection beyond this earth, featuring colours similar to Resene Boston Blue and Resene Saffron. Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli commented on the peace and love comments made about the collection, saying they were completely intentional and that they believe in a fantastic future, which might explain the space imagery that dominated the later half of the range.

Faith Connexion walks the line between womenswear and menswear, with a heavy androgynous eye for design running throughout its collections. The difference between its menswear and womenswear ranges is so slight that Paris buyers are picking from either rack regardless of customer gender. Whilst it might not be intentional, the white spray paint print against the harsh black fabric, mixed with the red in a similar colour to Resene Red Ochre replicates some of the abstract depictions of space, and the almost uniform cuts of the clothing leave a distinct image of a galactic warrior in mind.

VALENTINO Resene Boston Blue Resene Saffron

JEAN Rese

behind the business

ARMANI PRIVE Resene Elvis Resene Studio

ZUHAIR MURAD Resene Quarter Thorndon Cream

N PAUL GAULTIER ene Uhi

FAITH CONNEXION Resene Red Ochre

ELIE SAAB Resene Horizon

CHANEL Resene Red Oxide

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I 17

photoshoot

WORLD SIGHT DAY Clockwise from left: TOMS Adeline Black TOMS Beachmaster in Havana Tortoise JOHNATHAN SAUNDERS Ellis JOHNATHAN SAUNDERS Nika MODEL: Bree at Red11 Models MAKE UP & HAIR: Clare Hendra PHOTOGRAPHER: Caitlan Mitchell

18 I September 2015

education

FROM CLASSROOM TO CATWALK

CALLS FOR STUDENTS TO ENTER ID FASHION WEEK

Applications are now open for the 2016 iD International Emerging Designer Awards. Students from around the country are encouraged to get involved in the awards that offer top cash prizes of $6000 for first place, $4000 for second place and $2000 for third place, alongside other cash and special prizes yet to be announced.

“This is an incredible opportunity for emerging designers looking to launch their fashion careers on a world stage,” said Dr Margo Barton, professor of fashion at the Otago Polytechnic School of Design, a major sponsor of the awards.

“All our finalists get to meet and be critiqued by some of the world’s leading fashion notables, that can open doors in ways they’ve never imagined.

Internships, networking opportunities, and the chance to show at a world event, this is an essential event for all emerging designers.” According to Barton, threequarters of the 24 third-year fashion design students are entering designs, as opposed to last year where only two from the class were selected.

Now in its 12th year, the awards provide an international platform for rising local and international fashion design talent to showcase their innovative collections and gain further professional catwalk experience and networking opportunities.

Finalists have access to high profile established and emerging designers, a supportive professional environment and a judging panel made up of industry experts, that in the past have included leading designers such as UK milliner Stephen Jones and Paris-based designers Martin Grant and Lutz Huelle, alongside fashion gurus such as US vintage fashion queen Doris Raymond, the UK’s Hilary Alexander and Australia’s Nicholas Huxley, Glynis

Traill-Nash and Karen Webster.

This year, all awards applications will be made online and must be received by 30 November 2015.

The International Emerging Designer Awards is put on during the fashion week, supported by premier funder the Dunedin City Council and will include talks by prestigious overseas guests, international collaborations, catwalk shows and retail events, concluding with the iD Fashion Show held on the world’s longest catwalk, the platform of Dunedin’s Railway Station.

High profile and emerging Kiwi designers are being asked to submit portfolios for the hugely popular public fashion event. Fashion designers interested in participating must be commercial producing directional adult fashion. Links to Dunedin, such as retailing in the city or having lived or studied in Dunedin are not compulsory, but will be taken into account. Selections are made by industry professionals based on the designer portfolios submitted.

New iD Dunedin Fashion Week Committee Chair, Cherry Lucas said that next year’s event will present a new-look to the week, building on the success of past achievements, but with a fresh perspective provided by new organisers.

“As we head rapidly towards our 20th year, we must ensure that every year offers exciting new events and changes to the week that attract new designers, sponsors and event-goers,” said Lucas. “iD Dunedin Fashion Week 2016 is going to be an extraordinary event to be a part of, so designers should be registering their interest now.”

For more information visit www.idfashion.co.nz.

studentPROFILE

SURAYYA TAYIR From as early as five years old Surayya Tayir has been experimenting with dressmaking, cutting up old socks, paper and tablecloths to make clothes for dolls. Fast forward 20 years, Tayir has taken a childhood passion and turned it into a career. Tayir was born into a Uyghur-Turkish family in China where her mother’s love of fashion and knitting paved the way for her to pursue fashion design. Her father encouraged Tayir’s creative process, prompting her to draw from an early age.

“After high school I studied Chinese language and completed a bachelors degree in fashion design and engineering. After that I came to NZ Fashion Tech to perfect my practical skills,” said Tayir. Her love of Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Zuhair Murad has pushed Tayir to create well-conceptualised design, and with the help of NZ Fashion Tech has been able to execute them.

With the client in mind, Tayir continuously creates garments that are both appropriate to the market and exciting for the customer, but retains her goal of being noticed as an individual designer with a strong point of view. “Fashion is everything to me, I want to be the best I possibly can and would love to have a couture label of my own with a workroom in Paris.”

Taking inspiration from a variety of areas, Tayir doesn’t pinpoint her design process down to a single notion, but rather takes as many elements and organically fuses them to build a creative concept, from which she can fabricate commercial designs. Tayir has an affinity to the usual colours of red, black, white and grey but also finds gold to be powerful in its ability to portray luxury, quality, prestige, sophistication, value and elegance. “Natural fibres are so beautiful to work with, especially knowing how good they feel on the body. Although silk organza is a challenging fabric to work with, I enjoy the feeling of satisfaction after executing a complicated organza piece.”

With no immediate plans to leave New Zealand, Tayir is looking at her options to further her experience and is open to overseas learning opportunities, however she is actively looking for opportunities to pursue other avenues of the fashion industry including being a fashion buyer.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 19

education

STUDENTS TRAVEL TO VIETNAM

Miriam McCreanor and Lann Anh Ngyuyen

Grace Redgrave and Nguyen Thi Thuy Duong

Three Massey fashion design students have worked on a collaborative design brief with Vietnamese students.

To make this collaboration possible, New Zealand designer Tamsin Cooper has been working alongside the New Zealand Ambassador to Vietnam, Haike Manning, after having production in Vietnam for 15 years.

The design brief celebrates a 40-year bilateral trade agreement between New Zealand and Vietnam and the significant growth in business since the trade agreement was signed in 1994.

Fashion students in teams of two (one student from Vietnam and the other from New Zealand) combined their talents to collaborate online and produce a collection of four garments that embodied the theme of “fusion” between the two countries.

The three students travelled to Vietnam to finalise their collection with their teammate, and then participated in a fashion parade to showcase and select a winning collection.

The objective of this project was to showcase innovative, quality NZ education, including beyond “traditional” education channels, and profile NZ to a new audience.

It also posed to foster ties between younger generations of both countries while providing students the unique experience of working and collaborating across cultures. The collaboration highlighted new trade opportunities included under the TPP, for NZ and Vietnam to collaborate in production and trade of high-end garments.

Each student was responsible for two garments in their respective countries. The nature of the online collaboration among the teams included sharing images, sketches and other visual imagery.

The NZ students’ garments were made in NZ prior to travelling and once in Vietnam the teams had a chance to collaborate in person and make final adjustments to the pieces to maximize the coherence across the collection as a whole.

Each student received NZ$200 as a contribution to material costs.

Judging was based around the overall coherence of the collection, interpretation of the theme, design and construction and overall finish and presentation at the fashion show.

Grace Redgrave and Nguyen Thi Thuy Duong

Megan Stewart and Dang Thu Phuong

FASHION @ SIT Bachelor of Fashion (Design and Technology) Starts February 2016 National Certificate in Clothing Manufacture (Level 4) Starts July 2016 Certificate in Pattern Making and Garment Construction Starts February 2016

Call today or email info@sit.ac.nz

0800 4 0 FEES www.sit.ac.nz

20 I September 2015

L-R: WILSON ONG, JORGE ALFARO, NICOLE WESSELING

FASHION DESIGN

Whitecliffe is an award-winning, tertiary arts and design education specialist.

Whitecliffe Fashion Design graduates think creatively, take risks, and have a high level of industry standard technical skill. They are innovators with a personal vision who build careers as highly respected professionals within the Fashion industry.

APPLICATIONS FOR 2016 ACCEPTED NOW www.whitecliffe.ac.nz/whitecliffe/prospectus/ FASHION SHOW: 21 NOVEMBER Tickets available from ITicket from 21 October

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 21

education

CPIT FRONT BALLANTYNES FIRST FASHION WEEK

Ballantynes Fashion Week 15 project managers, front left, Bridget UptonGill and rear, Chelsay Mayor, selecting CPIT student garments for an in-store competition, with fashion programme leader Niki Chrisp

CPIT fashion design student Melissa Franklin

Iconic Canterbury department store Ballantynes have organised a competition for CPIT fashion design students in early October. Organisers of the Ballantynes Fashion Week 15 have selected five garments created by CPIT Diploma in Fashion Technology and Design students for inclusion in the competition, which will be displayed in-store October 1-6. This will be the first year Ballantynes has run a fashion week.

Open to CPIT students only, the competition winner will be selected by public vote and receive a $350 Ballantynes gift voucher plus a one-on-one session with well-known designer Karen Walker. CPIT fashion programme leader Niki Chrisp said Ballantynes staff had initiated contact with the institute to talk about ways to highlight what was happening in the Canterbury fashion scene. “It presented a great opportunity for our students to showcase their work within the Christchurch community. Allowing the public to vote on the chosen designs makes it a realworld experience for the students.” Voting will take place on Tuesday October 6.

Chrisp also said the event was timely with CPIT recently announcing its move to a fashion degree as part of the Bachelor of Design, next year. Pending New Zealand Qualifications Authority approval, the three-year programme aims to extend the scope of students’ work, to make them more competitive in the international fashion industry. Events like Ballantynes’ fashion week would be increasingly important for students to gain industry experience and exposure, she said.

Fashion week project managers Bridget Upton-Gill and Chelsay Mayor said the design brief was “Ladies Day at the Races” to tie-in with Cup Day in November.

“Garments were chosen not only because they fit the brief, but because they could be accessorised and styled with items found for sale at Ballantynes,” Mayor said.

Fashion week would also include a “Backstage at Ballantynes” workshop and tour on Tuesday October 6, for the public “to go behind the scenes at the store and hear from people working in the industry”.

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behind the business

SUCCESS UNDER

30

Maggie Lankshear

nuts&BOLTS

Katie Davison “The trip really opened my eyes and cemented the path I’d like to take in the fashion industry.”

24 I September 2015

“This was a great opportunity for me to see how the industry worked and gain valuable knowledge to further my career in the apparel industry.”

Born and raised in Pahoia, a small town outside Tauranga, Maggie Lankshear grew up with a passion for sports, in particular soccer and couldn’t have asked for more after landing her dream job working for adidas in New Zealand.

After playing soccer for NZ under 20’s and participating in the World Cup held in Russia, Lankshear found herself having to retire after suffering an injury. “I absolutely loved playing soccer, but I knew I couldn’t go on forever with an injury, so I decided to hang up my boots to study at Auckland University of Technology,” said Lankshear.

“A soccer career highlight was definitely going to the U20’s World Cup in Russia in 2006, but also being selected for the NZ Academy U16 squad that went to Australia in 2004, which led to me playing a full season over there for Manly United.” Majoring in PR and Marketing under the Bachelor of Communications programme at AUT, Lankshear started interning at Fresh PR. “This was a great opportunity for me to see how the industry worked and gain valuable knowledge to further my career in the apparel industry.”

Following her internship with Fresh, Lankshear went on to work with New Zealand’s much loved flip-flop brand Havaianas for three years and then onto Public Library, a showroom based in Grey Lynn that services both sales and public relations for some of Australia and New Zealand’s most prestigious brands including Maurie & Eve and Stolen Girlfriends Club.

“Building relationships and helping to develop sales and public relations for many different brands was a

fantastic experience and I loved working with both the clients and the team at Public Library, no two days were the same.” Three years later, Lankshear found herself landing her dream job, one that combined both her love and passion for sport, and the apparel and footwear industry.

Despite it being a long interview process, Lankshear blew the other candidates out of the water with her drive, experience and enthusiasm. “I really couldn’t believe that I got the job, it was a long process and for me, it was like the ultimate role working with a well-established and iconic brand. I have always wanted to work with one brand and concentrate all my efforts into that, and now I feel so lucky that I get to do just that with a company and sector that has always been close to my heart.

Not everyone finds their dream job, and I am grateful for the experience and the knowledge gained from previous positions to get to where I am today.”

Lankshear is currently working as the NZ key account manager for adidas originals fashion.

Young Auckland designer Katie Davison has an ultimate goal to start her own label that incorporates sustainable practices and produces clothing that is timeless – and she is on target to achieve this.

Unlike many young designers, Katie didn’t grow up around fashion but she always had a strong interest in art and believes this is where her passion for clothing design came from. It took her to Auckland’s Whitecliffe College where she graduated with an art and design degree majoring in fashion design. Currently she is on an industry learning curve spending half her week in the well-known Taylor Boutique workroom and the other half in the showroom of Icon Textiles. At Taylor, she spends a lot of her time in the

design area cutting and preparing samples, while over at Icon her role as a showroom assistant means being on hand for interior designers and trade clients. “I love being a part of what goes into producing a collection at Taylor and I’m really enjoying learning about interior design at Icon,” she said of the diversity of the two very different roles.

At the beginning of this year, Katie was chosen to travel to India on a Whitecliffe scholarship where she researched sustainable fashion. “The trip really opened my eyes and cemented the path I’d like to take in the fashion industry,” she said.

To Katie, the concept of sustainable practices is very close to her heart and hopes it will lead to practices that can make her designs timeless and contribute to beating the current fast fashion trend that is polluting the environment.

trendwatch

MODERN DAY BIKER

Without a doubt one of the most reliable trends, biker jackets and motorcycle detailing are once again at the forefront of the fashion industry as designers look to capitalise on the “bad-boy” look. Synonymous with youth rebellion, the leather biker jacket has become a symbol of the teen punk movement and has since been the focus for countless collections spanning over seven decades. Its popularity has been closely linked to Hollywood with classic actors like Jimmy Stewart, Marlon Brando, James Dean and Harrison Ford helping it achieve legendary status.

In fashion, some of the earliest leather jackets came out of the family run Schott NYC factory, which continues to produce quality clothing today. “The Perfecto has a spirit of its own. It’s for a bad boy, a rebel, an independent thinker. Even though everything here was designed for a practical purpose, it’s all been reinvented by people wearing them,” said Jason Schott, CEO and great-grandson of Schott NYC founder Irving Schott.

Looking forward, a new influx of leather jackets have hit the market led by high-end designers including Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga and Givenchy. Closer to home, Hailwood, Julian Danger and Stolen Girlfriends club all showcased biker influenced leather jackets at NZFW, spanning across both men’s and womenswear.

Titled Township Rebellion, Stolen Girlfriends Club celebrated 10 years in business with its latest collection at NZFW, which was true to its name and paid homage to the designers’ upbringing. It’s no surprise to see a biker jacket in the mix as the brand continually reinforces its alternative vibe in all of its offerings.

Julian Danger used the classic black leather biker in conjunction with a range of soft colours and fabrics that walked the line between airy and tomboy for an overall interesting offering.

Hailwood stepped away from the usual black and opted for a tan colour palette when it came to the leather jacket. Paired with a geometric multicoloured print, the combination read more playful then serious but equally stylish as others seen this season.

ALEXA CHUNG LAUNCHES NEW FASHION APP

techwatch APPLE UNVEILS HERMES PARTNERSHIP

Technology giant Apple announced a new partnership with French luxury brand Hermes for the wearable tech, Apple Watch. Already labelled a high-end luxury item, Apple further cemented this idea with the release of a Hermes band that retails for over $1000USD. The release comes just a month before Hermes’ launch of its own new watch during Paris fashion week in October.

FASHION KNOWLEDGE TESTED ON POPULAR QUIZ APP.

Mobile app QuizUp has tested the knowledge of fashion lovers across the globe. The immensely popular trivia software pits two challengers against each other in a battle of knowledge, with the winner scoring points and improving their rank. Alongside a series of fashion topics including branding and label identification, QuizUp is looking to bring the experience to larger organisations with specifically designed tests to help improve employee’s company knowledge. “Traditionally when enterprises are handing employees the manual of how to do things, it’s not exactly the most fun thing ever, it’s more of a chore. I feel like this is kind of the Holy Grail of corporate learning, you know, to make it fun,” said QuizUp CEO, Thor Fridriksson.

British fashion editor and model, Alexa Chung has launched a new fashion app described as a digital toy box for clothes. Villoid takes elements of Pinterest and e-commerce, mixing them together to create an experience that begins with building an inspiration board and ends with the purchase. “It’s your very own endless dressing up box, where you can experiment, celebrate and play with clothes from hundreds of brands including Converse, Acne, Marc Jacobs, Alexa Chung for AG and Chloe, as well as upload your own images to match the mood,” said Chung. The app’s design is clean cut and simple with endless scrolling to allow for continuous inspiration and brand exposure. Users can also follow brands and boards, with each of the products available for purchase.

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I 25

behind the business

The industry according to . . .

TURET KNUEFERMANN TK STORE

Celebrating almost ten years in the industry, I have heard many stories of how it was, and how it is now: it has been an interesting and fulfilling ride to date and I enjoy seeing the fast changes and different mediums through which we admire, aspire to and create fashion. In essence we all want the same things and react to the same emotions that humanity has had throughout time, and the way we market and what we create reflects the time and environment we live in. There is room for everyone: bespoke, fast fashion and the high street boutiques.

On the retail side, creating a clear identity and mood, and above all understanding the ‘craft’ of service is what makes the business strong and leads through to the product we create. Be it a supplier, advertiser or retailer, listening, delivering and maintaining are the elements that allow everything to run smoothly from conception through to a content customer and make it a pleasure to be part of. The market is divided as luxury consumers seek to separate themselves from the pack and desire more an experience. They seek to purchase items in discreet designs and as ethical concerns rise to the fore look for more consciously produced products, authenticity and curation.

Sustainability is on everyone’s lips with a wave of recycling sites on which people share, re-sell or swap clothing as an alternative way to shop, and mainstream mass production retailers get more and more effective at creating emotional engagement through collaborations with high-end designers and top models. On the manufacturing side, as much as I love to see ‘made in NZ’ on my labels, the pleasure of collaborating with manufacturers all over the world who are experts in their field offers such vast inspiration and opportunity and the ability to bring different cultures together and make wonderful relationships learn and grow together. We want to sell our pieces all over the world and it’s enriching to create them internationally.

Absolutely everything is fast, production, styling, marketing, and social media has created such urgency to offer a huge variety and to keep in the know. This can create pressure but on the other hand, what a wonderful opportunity to market worldwide within seconds at little extra cost and be within reach of such a vast audience.

Being open and flexible to adapt by embracing the fact that change is inevitable and therefore exciting with new opportunities and solutions being the key to keeping on top.

accessoryALERT

26 I September 2015

GALLY NINE

the key PIECE

WIDE BRIM HAT The epitome of current fashion and dominating the street style scene, wide brim hats are at the peak of their popularity and have penetrated both the men’s and women’s markets.

Previously worn for their high functionality, exaggerated or ‘stylish’ headwear would have been met with a level of ridicule, labelled unnecessary

and obnoxious. Things have changed, and the time for statement millinery is now. “Hats have taken over the scarf trend,” said Elyse Walker, owner of Los Angeles boutique and fashion director of e-commerce site Forward by Elyse Walker.

Walker said her hat sales have soared, with a 150% increase last year.

International e-commerce giant NetA-Porter reported millinery sales nearly doubled. And co-managing partner of New York based Rag & Bone, Marcus Wainwright, said the company could barely keep up with demand for its floppy-brimmed fedoras. The criticism was that not everyone could wear hats, but milliner Janessa Leone disagreed.

She explained that not being a hat person is like not being a shoe person.

“You have to wear shoes! There are so many different hats. You can find one that is flattering,” said Leone.

When wearing a hat, the key is attitude.

Gally Cho of Gally Nine has created an innovative and hip brand of handmade leather handbags and accessories for fashion lovers of all ages. Gally is a shortened name for galleria.

“A galleria holds masterpieces of experiencing emotion and sensation. This is the same logic behind Gally Nine’s products, that emphasise nine elements including design, practicality, and lightness,” explained Cho. Graduating from RMIT Australia, Cho worked with several prestigious fashion brands before creating her own brand in 2011.

Cho uses geometric shapes to intensify the expression of beautiful, progressive and enterprising women.

Elements such as black and white geometric lines are designed to define the standard of modern luxury. For Gally Nine, modern

It’s the same concept that surrounds all other aspects of fashion. If you’re uncomfortable, it shows. “Take no prisoners. If you own it, you look cool in it. You can look like you’re trying too hard quite quickly,” said Wainwright.

A great starting point is the WORLD Lemon Squeezer. Subtly stylish, the minimalistic hat makes up for its lack of detail with the range of vibrant colours. If colour is too much, UK based accessory label Luminous have released a range of neutral toned fedoras that span across black, grey and tan, all made in a lightweight wool.

The simplicity of a wide-brimmed hat will affect the accompanying pieces, but as a rule of thumb less is more, so stick to a simple silhouette that doesn’t distract or emphasise the size of the hat.

An effortless feel is always desired and it doesn’t mean you have to compromise style.

luxury means providing a distinctive identity with a brand’s use of unique material and patterns that inspire and reveal character and personality.

Gally Nine showed at Seoul Fashion Week in 2013 and soon after became one of the most sought after leather brands in Korea. Now with four stores and 16 department store accounts in Seoul Cho is looking to open the first international branch back home in New Zealand.

With a multi-national background including American, New Zealand, Australian, and Korean Cho perceives the desire for stylish modern luxury worldwide and sees extra opportunity in areas of stable economic growth. Gally Nine plans to open in the heart of Auckland and other various locations as opportunity rises.

For more information, email gallyinny@gmail.com

THIRD FORM

inDETAIL

Layering and texture came together in a showcase of concise design ethic from Sydney-based designer Merryn Kelly who had her NZFW debut this year.

Launched in 2014, Third Form has consistently delivered strong collections that utilise minimalistic design with an urban undertone. The synergy between structure, shape and texture has become a signature of Kelly’s, who looks away from trends and fads to produce garments that are individually timeless.

“I find a lot of inspiration in Japanese tailoring and the respected craft of creating a piece, taking careful consideration every step of the way. I admire their respect of a garment, they don’t over complicate designs or intentionally distract the wearer from the purpose of the piece,” said Kelly.

This traditional approach runs through the latest collection, Unbound, which is described as intentionally disassembled. Kelly explained how each piece appears to be unfinished or not put back together, sliding away from the body as if it’s being swept away.

“It all started with playing with fabrications and the contrast that is created when playing with sheers and solids, from here I looked further into construction methods and design lines to create negative spaces and dimensions in outfits and also in single garments.”

Alongside the neutral colour palette, dimension through transparent layers over strong textures have been carefully selected to achieve both a comfortable wear but a strong look.

“Beyond how it looks, I want Third Form customers to feel incredible when wearing the pieces.” Whilst Third Form is still in its early days, Kelly is looking at expanding into the US and Asian markets, and explained how important having an international presence is to a new brand.

“NZFW was a great introduction to participating in a global fashion week and we would love to continue doing so on home soil as well as internationally in the years to come.

I feel being present internationally is key to the growth of any business, with everything being online and changing at such a fast ‘click of a button’ pace its important to be on the ground and involved in your markets to stay relevant to customers and of course gain an understanding of the local state of play.”

apparelmagazine.co.nz

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edited

NEW IN: 5 Fresh Trends for Spring ‘16 from NY You may have already read about the five current commercial trends New York is rerunning for spring. If you haven’t, do – you could save yourself a lot of legwork.

But what of the new I hear you cry! In a week which saw Givenchy cross the Atlantic to open its show to the public and Kanye doing what Kanye does best – ruffling feathers with an unscheduled show – there was newness in spades. Here we share our five best bets for the new season.

1. TRAPEZE ARTIST

‘Triangles are my favorite shape” sang Alt-J. “And ours!” replied New York’s designers, proving it with a host of trapeze tops and dresses. At Tory Burch that meant a beachy, high-necked camisole in bluebell. Vera Wang was more dramatic with the trend, creating a billowing crimson dress hung from the neck with a racer front. Silhouette distortion was achieved with dramatic triangle forms in the cotton tops at Rosie Assoulin. This one works best in woven fabrics and can carry a high-summer print well.

NYFW-Trends-SS16-Deconstructed-EDITED

elsewhere designers opted for full off-shoulder looks. Wrap midi skirts will replace the mini wrap skirts/kilts so popular in Spring 2014, except this time round they’re hip slung, feature d-ring fastening and trail loose-ended ties.

4. THE NEW SLIDER

Just the right balance of androgyny and polish, we present Spring ’16’s newest footwear style: the slip-on loafer. In two tone and tasselled at Edun, or studded and basket weave at Alexander Wang, these exude casual elegance and pair perfectly with Spring’s wide-legged, cropped trousers or midi skirts.

NYFW-Trends-SS16-Trapeze-EDITED

Why it works for Spring ’16: The crop top needs an update and here she is.

Customers who bought higher-priced and high-waisted bottoms during Spring ’15 (things such as denim and culottes) will want a budget-proof way to bring their investments into the new season. A trapeze shape added to the top of last summer’s cami or slip dresses will breathe new life into the bestseller.

2. THESE NEW PURITANS

Monastic and pious: we’re not asking you to behave saintly all summer, just dress like you do. The cleanest of fluid lines, natural fibers and an absence of embellishment defined this new direction. In an entirely neutral palette, we saw references at Victoria Beckham, Opening Ceremony, Milly and Derek Lam. Key pieces were maxi shirt dresses, streamlined jumpsuits, high necks and fluted sleeves.

NYFW-Trends-SS16-Loafer-EDITED

Why it works for Spring ’16: The Birkenstock and the pool slider have enjoyed a great deal of airtime, paving the way for flat, ‘ugly’ and androgynous footwear styles which consumers have fully embraced. Birkenstock-style shoes which arrived online this Spring took on average 56 days for the majority of sizes to sell out, compared to 123 days just two years ago. Retailers will need a way to entice consumers – a slip-on version of Fall 2015’s pointed loafers will do just the trick.

5. MATISSE’D

Among the usual bold and reworked stripes and complicated florals appeared a fresher print story. In the abstract forms of paper collage, this trend feels contemporary, crafty and child-like. Lacoste’s flag-inspired collection featured a playful print which brings to mind the shape work of Alexander Calder or Joan Miró. Tibi color-blocked their print into panelled silk, while Opening Ceremony and Jeremy Scott ramped up the fun factor.

NYFW-Trends-SS16-Puritan-EDITED

Why it works for Spring ’16: Fortuitously, this trend sits at the intersection of two others: sports luxe and the 1970s. It has the expensive feel and functionality of the former (minus the street references) and it takes shapes from the latter – think 70s era post-Beatles John Lennon. The trend’s dependance on beautiful fabrics and lack of adornment pitches it for the premium and luxury markets.

3. DECONSTRUCTED

If things were getting a little well-behaved for your liking, fear not: deconstructivism is here. Fragmented, distorted and dislocated – words used to describe the architectural movement of the same name which apply to New York’s apparel interpretation too.

Slashed fabrics, frayed edges, asymmetric panels and a sexed-up sense of disarray typify the looks on show at Givenchy, Derek Lam, Zak Posen, Altuzarra and other influential designers. The palette is the stiffest thing about this unbuttoned trend: think slate, white, navy and black. Why it works for Spring ’16: Easy wins like frayed hems and unexpected seam slashes aside, this trend will triumph because it incorporates two of spring’s biggest shapes: the cold-shoulder and the midi length wrap skirt. If you take one thing from New York, be it that shoulders are the new abs. Tops, dresses, outwear, knitwear, sweaters and shirting – all were worked into cold-shoulder shapes while

28 I September 2015

NYFW-Trends-SS16-Collage-EDITED

Why it works for Spring ’16: Retailers and consumers will be on the lookout for a replacement to Spring ’15’s gingham print trend. This collage story has the same naivety, but packs in a few more cultural references and allows for a broader play on color. It bodes well for the trend that there’s very little on the market like it – meaning it will be identifiably Spring 2016 and the mass market should leap upon it. There we have it! The new kids in town – get acquainted now and they’ll be your best friends before summer is out. We’ll be back next week when London takes its turn in the fashion week spotlight. Sign up to our Insider Briefing now and you’ll be the first to discover trends hot from the runway. EDITED customers, sign in now for even more data-drenched runway analysis.

By Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITD

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