Apparel Magazine // September 2016

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SEPTEMBER 2016 I VOL 49 I NO 9

HOKONUI FASHION AWARDS 14

NEWS 04 BEAUTY NEWS 10 20 MINUTES WITH 14 FEATURE: EDUCATION 20 NZFW REPORT 28

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PRESENTATIONS VS. RUNWAY SHOWS It has been one very busy month for the fashion industry in New Zealand. August saw another successful New Zealand Fashion Week that showcased many well-known brands and some fabulous upand-coming brands. Salasai was one of the stand-out presentations this year having returned to the event.

The brand partnered with Taylored Studio, which celebrated the marriage between architecture and fashion. Designers Kelly and Kirsha had a strong vision for the show that was to define and deliver a dynamic experience for all.

Presentations are nothing new to the industry and have been a preferred option for emerging designers on limited budgets but today are more directional with a true balance between art and fashion. This art has become a go-to for designers who prefer to escape the monotony of archaic fashion week structures.

The ever-controversial ‘entrepreneur’ Kanye West for example, debuted his new collection in a triangular-shaped runway in a field of additional models that stood all lined up wearing nude tones.

It was hot outside, and needless to say, it was like a domino effect watching models in the field having to sit down after standing in the heat for hours, some even fainting. Although this is no doubt an extreme example of a presentation there are many benefits to designers and brands that opt for presentations over runway shows. One being it is far easier for guests and fashion photographers to take and share photos of the different looks. Another is that guests have

Four percent of the annual consumer expenditure is spent on clothing and footwear which is about $5.3 billion NZD. This is New Zealand Fashion Week’s 16th year and now generates an estimated $30 million NZD in advertising value.

65 percent of New Zealand’s textile export is wool and brings in a whopping $835 million NZD.

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

ON THE COVER: Hokonui Fashion Design Awards BONZ AWARD OF EXCELLENCE Open Section Winner Andre Johnston’s garment.

One of the most iconic leaders of Egypt who ruled from age 9 to 18, King Tut, was buried with 145 underpants.

In 1914, New Yorker Mary Phelps Jacobs sewed two handkerchiefs together and patented her design under the label “brassiere”. Soon after she sold it to the Warner Brothers Corset Company for $15,000 USD.

On average in America employee or internal theft from retailers was 34.5 percent in 2014.

PUBLISHER Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com ADVERTISING SALES Josie McKeefry - josie@reviewmags.com SENIOR DESIGNER Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com DESIGN ASSISTANT Hannah Sames PHOTOGRAPHER Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com

2 I September 2016

an opportunity to see each garment up close and designers can accommodate more guests during a designated time frame.

The Apparel team also travelled all the way to Gore for the Hokonui Fashion Awards where Andre Johnston took out the top award (our fabulous cover image). To see all the images of the two fashion weeks, there is a selection of our top picks in this issue as well as full coverage online at www.apparelmagazine.co.nz.

ADMINISTRATION MANAGER Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.

MILITARY STYLE INVADES FASHION

by Timothy Godbold Senior designer of Ralph Lauren from 1989 to 2005, Timothy Godbold is an international fashion insider with a lifelong interest in military style. The Australian-born designer has also established his own interior design and fashion consultancy. This book displays the many ways that Godbold was inspired by military styles and how they have influenced contemporary fashion. Allowing the reader to see the historic transformation of military garments into popular retail fashion. Some of today’s most popular styles and designs on the street were originally intended for warfare. Military Style Invades Fashion celebrates the enduring appeal of military-inspired garments and becomes a reference guide of inspiration for readers.

GRACE: The American Vogue Years

Fashion icon Grace Coddington is at it again with the same superb read, but in its second and final volume. The American Vogue Years showcases a collection of her best work as a Vogue editor. This volume features a slipcase for the book containing the last 15 years of work by Coddington and seventeen master photographers. These include Annie Leibovitz, Steven Meisel, Craig McDean, David Sims, Mario Testino, and Marcus Piggot and Mert Alas.

Coddington became a global fashion icon through the 2009 documentary film “The September Issue”, which followed her career at Vogue. After almost thirty years as Vogue US creative director, this year she has been bumped up to the iconic magazine’s creative director-at-large.

WOMEN IN DIOR: Portraits of Elegance

Celebrating an exquisite collection of Dior’s most glamorous clientele that brought their garments to life. Featuring key designs

by Christian Dior and other head designers from Yves Saint Laurent to Raf Simons.

Seen through the eyes of fashion photographers and a mix of rarely seen and never-beforepublished illustrations and letters from Dior’s archive. Allowing the readers to understand the relationships that inspired the couture and built the Dior empire. Women in Dior showcases extraordinary women worldwide from Marilyn Monroe to Rihanna. It is leading women and other notable figures for generations that have kept Dior at the forefront of the fashion world. This book shines a new light on Dior creations and is a musthave for fashion students with a high-end style.

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FILA X FACTORIE CHARLES PARSONS LAUNCHES NEW INNOVATION FUND

In its centenary year, Australasia’s largest independent textile and fashion business, Charles Parsons (Holdings) Pty Ltd, announced the launch of a new proprietary innovation fund for young talent who are involved in textile related businesses, and who are now ready to move to the next phase of their growth with CP Ventures.

“We would like to connect the incredible internal talent within our organisation with external entrepreneurs, to enable cross-pollination. We believe new CP Venture partners will benefit from our wealth of experience, global networks and, where necessary, direct financial investment, to enable challenges and exciting joint enterprise,” said Charles Parsons, group managing director and great-grandson of the organisations founder.

Successful applicants to the CP Ventures fund will be offered unparalleled access to the Charles Parsons business divisions that include homewares, garments, drapery and upholstery fabrics, garment components and textiles from manufacturing to finished products.

“The Group has always been focused on the principles of trusted, innovative partnerships. It is therefore appropriate to be launching CP Ventures in our hundredth year of business, knowing that we are laying foundations for another hundred years of successful Australian enterprise,” said Charles Parsons.

CP Ventures has been created with a purpose of providing opportunity, driving innovation and creating value in the broader Australasian textiles community at a time when the industry is looking for leadership to maintain global competitiveness.

CP Ventures is open to all private businesses that have some relationship to the textile or clothing industries with a view to partnership. The process begins through submissions to CP Ventures at www. charlesparsons.com.

MEET RADICOOL KIDS Designers Emily and Brendan Boniface created Radicool Kids after the birth of their son River. The husband and wife duo saw a gap in the market for a local brand offering a more youthful and on trend boyswear brand. Radicool Dude was launched in the Summer of 2013 and following the birth of their daughter, Indie that same year, the much anticipated girls label Kissed by Radicool landed in stores in Autumn 2015. With a love of fashion, art and design and after many years in the fashion industry, each collection has been carefully created with both the child and parent in mind. From fun florals to stonewash denim and luxe cotton, Radicool Kids is designed with love and care to bring out the wild in every little adventurer.

“We have both worked within the industry for over 20 years, mainly in the surf/streetwear vein with a lot of inspiration drawn from this experience,” said Emily. “We

Global youth lifestyle brand factorie has announced an exclusive collaboration with Fila, one of the world’s largest heritage sportswear brands. “Factorie’s dominant position in the youth fashion market, the opportunity for excellent geographical coverage in both Australia and New Zealand combined with their presentation, store environments, and ability to present a full heritage range offer while keeping it merchandised as a story made factorie the ideal brand to collaborate with,” said Celeste Giusti, Fila’s marketing manager. The Fila x factorie line is timeless, yet modern and fresh. Fila’s archive of design inspiration sees factorie fusing the brand’s staple silhouettes with contemporary trends, for a blending of styles old and new. The range consists of tees, jumpers, pants, accessories and footwear.

live in Dunedin and in September 2015 we opened our first flagship store in the city. We believe that through love, kindness and a whole lot of hard work any dream is possible.” The ‘Come Together’ series, which works with international organisations to help raise awareness and funds for various humanitarian and environmental causes, has recently been created.

“We are both passionate about the future of the planet and all those living within it and we are proud that our company has had the privilege of working alongside some of the best non-profit groups within New Zealand and abroad.” The company has also created ‘Rad Design Collective’ where the brand collaborates with upcoming artists to create not only a deeper artistic and creative breadth but also a platform for artists to show their works in a commercial setting.

One of the highlights from the pair’s journey was being asked to show at NZ Fashion Week this year. “It was such an epic moment and we loved being able to showcase the brand on an international stage.”

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SPECSAVERS EXCLUSIVE LINE

Furthering its commitment to making high-end fashion accessible to everyone, optometrists Specsavers have announced a new collaboration with in-demand, luxury womenswear brand Ellery.

The range features strong, architectural silhouettes that are both dynamic and innovative. With an eye for aesthetics, the Ellery eyewear collection expresses a sophisticated signature style, brought to life through an exploration of exaggerated shapes and rich textures. The collection has been designed for the wearer looking for masterful design, quality and unexpected details. For Kym Ellery, designing the new range presented an opportunity to explore the sartorial role that eyewear plays in the style of its wearer. “For me, eyewear is a crucial part of personal style and I am thrilled to have been given the opportunity to create a collection of frames with Specsavers,” said Ellery.

“When designing I focus on creating modern classics for intelligent women and this eyewear collection is no exception.”

As one of Australia’s most coveted luxury designers, Ellery was a natural choice for Specsavers to partner with to produce this unique and striking range.

H&M has announced that iconic photographer JeanPaul Goude has shot the campaign for Kenzo x H&M. The campaign stars seven diverse celebrities and figureheads including Iman, Rosario Dawson, Chance The Rapper, Ryuichi Sakamoto, Chloe Sevigny, Suboi and Xiuhtezcatl Martinez. It will debut October 17, before the collection arrives in over 250 selected H&M stores worldwide, as well as online, on November 3.

Jean-Paul Goude is responsible for some of the most influential fashion and music imagery of the past five decades. For Kenzo x H&M, he has worked in his own unique style to create the campaign, which will appear in print, as well as on billboards.

“We love to work with our idols, and Jean-Paul Goude is a true icon. His images for the campaign are incredible, and capture the personality, positivity and freedom of the collection,” said Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, creative directors, Kenzo. “Working with H&M and Carol and Humberto on the Kenzo x H&M campaign is a real adventure. I love the attitude that they have brought to the collection, and their youth, energy, fun and style,” said Jean-Paul Goude.

SABEN GETS GRID ON

Saben has launched its high summer collection ‘Get Ya Grid On’ that features a line up of the brands summer shapes constructed with a fresh injection of print and texture.

Following the mainline summer collection’s style mantra – ‘to play more’, it is evident the brand is backing print. “Patterns are way more fun when you wear them all at once,” said Roanne Jacobson, Saben designer and director. Second summer has a monochrome moment with a quirky grid print, and a floral print that explodes with life. The collection is bound to excite the senses with a striking palette, statement confetti scattered eyelets and unexpected prints. “If the prints don’t clash, we say put them back.”

Jaybird has released its most advanced, secure-fit wireless Bluetooth buds ever – Freedom. Elegant and micro-sized they fit perfectly in even the smallest of ears and deliver a hands-free experience that never misses the beat. The buds are multi-faceted and can be the single solution for those looking for a wireless headphone that’s both functional and refined, packing premium features into a bite-sized package.

Although small in size, Freedom is big in sound and is Jaybird’s smallest, securefit buds to date using a patented taper down design, reducing speaker diameter by 20 percent and never compromising on sound. These wireless buds are the perfect accessory to an active life and are the ultimate hands-free experience. The listener has the freedom to listen to music, talk on the phone, take voice cues, and change your headphones all hands-free.

With a special, lightweight-charging clip that provides eight hours of playtime, the listener will never miss a favourite song. In fact, they can even workout with the charger on. Sweat-proof premium buds fit perfectly in any ear thanks to Comply memory foam tip and enhanced comfort ear fins. With over 12 different ways to personalise the buds, Jaybird Freedom’s slimmer profile fits comfortably for any lifestyle.

Freedom’s elegant metal accents bring a fashionable element while also being more rugged than ever, offering the freedom to fashionably bring your music anywhere, from mountain to motorcycle.

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MOONTIDE IS BACK

After a long hiatus Moontide, the iconic New Zealand brand, was back at NZ Fashion Week showcasing all this summer’s essential shapes, prints and colours. The 2017 collection opened the Swim Show with much excitement and is full of the key and relevant silhouettes of the season.

The show opener, exotic floral in deep jewel tones, chic and trending olive and elegant ivory, cup sized sporty bralett’s and flowing Kaftan’s quintessential must have’s season after season.

The one piece is the highlight again this summer with one shoulder, plunging neck lines and open backs that add glamour, sophistication and playfulness to the season’s essential.

Textured fabrics and mesh cut-outs keep suits fresh and current, with cup sizes available from A-G. Hidden construction and a powermesh ensure a Moontide suit is always the perfect fit.

Perennial favourites such as nautical stripes and elegant swirling water-inspired prints and tribal

NATURALLY ORGANIC FABRICS An Australian family-owned and operated company, Kingston Grange specialises in importing bamboo fibre clothing. Over the past fourteen years the company has been designing, manufacturing and importing personalised apparel for men and women, specialising in producing a unique range of bamboo fibre clothing. The men’s dress/casual shirt range has proven extremely popular from the Hawaiian and bamboo themed prints to solid colours. The ladies tops and beach pants are also a major contributor to the range Bamboo fibre is naturally organic as bamboo is grown without pesticides or fertilisers and is luxuriously soft making the clothes feel like silky cashmere. As bamboo is one of the worlds fastest growing plants, growing up to a metre a day, the fibre is also sustainable. Similar to grass, bamboo, once cut will regenerate quickly without the need for replanting. The fabric is absorbent, absorbing up to 60 percent more water than cotton making it an excellent choice for drawing moisture off the body. It is also antibacterial, breathable, thermo-regulating, hypoallergenic and UV protective cutting out 98 percent of harmful UV rays.

The Kingston Grange brand is distributed in New Zealand by North Shore International Ltd. For more information email sales@northshore.co.nz or call 09 445 8371.

influences are offered in an array of cool blues or you can turn up the heat with hot pinks and purples. Milano is an intricate black-based print with strategically placed splashes of colour to flatter the neckline, waist and torso.

Crop tops are summer must haves with the high neck as a key trend, textured fabrics edged in contracting colours and mesh overlays teamed with urban abstract prints keep them fresh and relevant. Brush Off offers braletts, crops and suits with mesh inserts for the sportique look while Moving Shadow, a stylish textured mono print that is trimmed in solid black offers archetypal glamour with a modern edge.

Bikini pants are offered in a multitude of shapes and coverage, from the high-waisted 50s pant to the tiny tie side, classic hispters and reversible options cover off the middle ground. Teamed with Underwired tops in sizes A-G, booster tri’s or crop tops all body shapes are accounted for.

For more information or to view the collections contact the showroom on 09 551 7720.

LINGERIE VENTURE GOES GLOBAL

Elle Macpherson has announced the global launch of a new lingerie brand, Elle Macpherson Body. The brand brings a strong, modern approach to the lingerie category. “Its essence lies in simplicity and freedom,” said Macpherson.

“Elle Macpherson Body brings a new aesthetic to the market.” The brand is as much about attitude as it is about lingerie. Globally acclaimed photographer, Gilles Bensimon shot the brand campaign. “There’s a coolness in the campaign imagery that epitomises the brand, reflecting the Australian lifestyle and its signature fresh, uncontrived spirit,” said Macpherson. The campaign focuses on the collection’s modern silhouettes and bold, unexpected colours, the antithesis of traditional lingerie. Dynamic simplicity is the hallmark of the collection. “I believe that true luxury is comfort and style,” said Macpherson. “In designing the collection, I’ve paid close attention to detail, but I don’t ever forfeit fit for fashion.” Elle Macpherson Body launches in stores throughout Australia, New Zealand, the United Kingdom and United States.

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BOOT OF THE DECADE FOOTPRINT GROWS FOR SKECHERS Skechers has opened its first ever South Island store during August at Westfield Riccarton, Christchurch.

With a loyal customer base across New Zealand and following the increasing popularity of the three Auckland-based concept stores, Skechers is thrilled to be expanding to the South Island and building its customer base in Christchurch.

The new 140sqm store is located in the popular Westfield Riccarton mall and will showcase more than 400 styles of Skechers

shoes, including the latest Skechers Burst, and Skechers Go Flex ranges.

YEEZY FOR KIDS

Following the huge success of the Yeezy Boost 350, Adidas Originals and Kanye West have launched the Yeezy Boost 350 Infant. The exclusive children’s sneaker is an almost replica of the adult version

so that kids can be just as stylish as their parents. The new age of Yeezy will cater for infants and toddlers with six sizes available in two of the original colour ways; turtledove and pirate black.

KATY PERRY GETS INTO SHOES

Singer and songwriter Katy Perry has made her first foray into designing footwear. Perry has teamed up with Hong Kongbased fashion giant Global Brands Group to design a line of footwear. “I have a two-car garage full of shoes, and my dream is to bring personality shoes to the marketplace at an affordable price for women 16 and beyond,” said Perry. The singer said she is inspired by designers like Charlotte Olympia but wants her collection to be more affordable. The line will debut in January 2017.

It would seem that every era has a shoe, and many have decided that, due to the recent overwhelming popularity of the over-the-knee boot, it is enough to call it the boot of the decade. Cassie Smart, footwear and bags buying manager at Matchesfashion.com told The Guardian that sales have and continue to be buoyant due to the versatility of the boot. “The over-the-knee boot has become an important category within our boot range due to the different heel heights and the appeal for many occasions, from day to night,” said Smart. She also mentioned that sales have been growing since the release of AW15 release of Saint Laurent and Nicholas Kirkwood versions. “They work well with midi dresses, elongate the leg, and are equally stylish in more of a daytime look with luxe knitwear layered with a long-length coat.”

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ON THE MOVE

Following 86 years in business, 21 of which located on Level 3 of Auckland’s Atrium on Elliot Street, George Harrison has decided to make the move to a new location. While the new location is on the same street, the space next to Elliot Stables will be street front, increasing the potential for new business, an element the company has been struggling with as the demographic of consumers of the Atrium has changed over time. “Being street front we will have more exposure, a wider range of clientele and foot traffic, which results in growing our database,” said Kate Chapman, marketing co-ordinator, George Harrison.

The brand is a dedicated menswear provider who specialises in stocking

DEDICATED MEN’S STORE a broad range of European designer collections from international brands including Versace, Reporter, Karl Lagerfeld, Gaudi, and Diesel. Alongside the new location, the business has launched a new website which is soon to be followed by e-commerce, marking the first time the company has sold its stock online. “We look forward to enriching the New Zealand online menswear experience.”

International retail giant H&M is reportedly considering opening dedicated menswear stores in the UK. The Swedish retailer was “working on” the stores in London according to H&M UK and Ireland manager Carlos Duarte, following the successful roll out in its two biggest markets – Sweden and Germany. A launch date hasn’t been confirmed but should it happen, it would be taking similar steps to other major retailers like Zara and Jigsaw.

INTERNATIONAL PARTNERSHIP As international interest in the local market grows, 3 Wise Men founders Richard Miles, Hugh Cotterill and Simon Peacocke have partnered with Dune London to bring the brand to New Zealand. Dune London is a leading UK footwear supplier, having won the Drapers Best Footwear Supplier for the last two years.

It is best known for its trend-led offering.

The new 85 sqm store features a stunning retail concept from Dune London, showcasing the latest collection of ladies and men’s footwear

and accessories. Incorporating an inverted catwalk, open store fronts, and large scale graphics, the store design ensures an engaging and exciting retail environment for customers.

Dune London has over 20 years’ experience in the footwear industry, a passion and dedication to excellence in product development and inhouse design, and a commitment to providing outstanding customer service.

Following a successful launch into the US market and continued strong international growth plans in the

Middle East, India and South Africa, New Zealand sees Dune London continue to expand its global footprint.

“The partnership gives us the ability to tap into various elements of their business – design, merchandising and

planning, store design, marketing, and logistics,” said Miles.

Through the partnership Miles said he will have the opportunity to meet new international franchisees from around the globe holding the Dune franchise, sharing information between like-minded retailers.

“International interest in New Zealand is expected and refreshing. New brands will stimulate the market and existing Kiwi retailers will review and improve as a result – ultimately the consumer will have more choice,” said Miles. A second location at St Lukes in Auckland is set to open later in the year.

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NAIL FILES FOR NAIL GUNS NZ BEAUTY IN CHINA

New Zealand-made, natural skincare brand Linden Leaves has announced that they are now stocked in Shanghai, China. Linden Leaves, along with many other New Zealand skincare brands have had to forgo the Chinese market for some time despite New Zealand having a robust free trade deal with China due to the animal testing policy that the Chinese Government have imposed. “We’re thrilled to finally be able to meet the huge demand for Linden Leaves in this market without having to go through animal testing procedures like so many other brands have done,” said founder Brigit Blair.

“I feel so proud that we did not bend our own company ethics and policy for the greater lure of the Chinese dollar due to their animal testing policy. It is so exciting

that we have managed to enter the market in a way that means we are able to stay true to what we stand for, not only as a company, but also as a cruelty free nation.”

The range has been launched into Shanghai’s largest Duty Free Downtown store with huge success and over 2000 people attended the opening event for their new counter.

CHANEL BEAUTY IN BRITOMART

New Zealand has welcomed its first Chanel boutique and it brings a slice of French chic to Britomart, Auckland’s most celebrated fashion precinct. The launch of Chanel’s first boutique represents a new era for Auckland’s fashion scene. Located in the

Australis House, the fragrance and beauty boutique will also introduce the Chanel line of eyewear to an Auckland audience. The building’s early 20th century provenance pairs perfectly with the label that was launched in 1907. Also on display is art that plays on the colours and themes of Chanel’s product lines, providing additional in-store delights for visitors to the space. “The opening of the first boutique in New Zealand is a momentous occasion for Chanel,” explained David Blakeley, the managing director of Chanel in New Zealand and Australia. “We are very proud to have carefully designed this new style of boutique alongside the original character of the Britomart building.”

Employees building plant boxes at 10 refugee homes during L’Oreal’s annual Citizen Day. From L to R: Jo Masson, John Kingan and Audrey Hill.

As part of the cosmetic company’s annual Citizen Day, L’Oreal employees swapped out beauty products for spades and cooking utensils to create outdoor garden beds, plant vegetables and make award winning NZ chefs Kasey and Karena’s family recipe marmalade for the Refugees as Survivors community.

This year, the company chose to partner with RASNZ in recognition of the plight of displaced peoples around the world. The idea behind the initiative is to show refugees that their new community cares about them. It is also an opportunity to send a message to other organisations to help support this venerable group and show them the true Kiwi spirit. “Our team is honoured to be able to help make a difference and welcome these good people into our neighbourhoods, and it also just feels good to do good,” said L’Oreal New Zealand executive general manager Marin Smith.

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Joshie Olausen PRODUCTION MANAGER, WOLRD

“Working with a host of characters and learning from some fantastic people in an open fun environment that has allowed me to grow and develop a high level of autonomy and vision within the business.”

Joshie Olausen was born in New Zealand, but was dragged across the ditch and forced to “evolve like a Pokémon into an Aussie” at a young age. Olausen said he was lucky, he grew up with his two brothers with a pretty privileged yet classic childhood either on or around a sports field.

“I grew up with a brother each side of me and as a triumvirate of trouble we were in equal parts charming and devious,” said Olausen. His father was heavily involved in the fashion industry throughout his life as the general manager of Bendon. “Both my parent’s style and character has rubbed off on me and indirectly lead me to fashion,” he explained.

Olausen has always been interested in fashion, but it wasn’t until he started his journey with WORLD that he really understood and appreciated what makes fashion as an industry come alive. “It really brought out in me an interest in how fashion can shape your enjoyment and appreciation of everything,” he said.

Olausen is a strong believer in learning on the job and has been at WORLD for eleven years working his way up from deliveries to the production manager. “Working with a host of characters and learning from some fantastic people in an open fun environment that has allowed me to grow and develop a high level of autonomy and vision within the business,” he added. Since joining the team, Olausen has sharpened and grown the production system dramatically.

This allows the brand to be able to develop more unique products and keep up with the demand of growing retail stores. He gets into work early, and the first thing he does is turn George FM on. Then he begins collating the ever-changing position of the production, working with their talented contractors, suppliers and of course the in-house team to make sure the integrity of the garments is the very best.

In the afternoons, he visits partners and works with them on the processes to make sure the quality is ever evolving. The design team is open and in a way everyone at WORLD is involved in the design process.

“We don’t create the clothes with a generalised person in mind, we think of specific customers and members of the team that inspire us and then build a garment that we as a team love and hope our

collective personality is enticing to our clients,” he explained.

Personally, he has enjoyed seeing sportswear and knitwear be incorporated into high fashion and structured garments. As well as the mix of high fashion and streetwear has allowed Olausen to have more fun while growing up and made this kind of style a lot more accessible. Olausen loves being part of the management team as it gives him the opportunity to push the brand in the direction he believes it can travel.

The next step for WORLD is opening their Queenstown store next month followed by some big visions and goals for next year. His favourite part of the job is the completion of a collection.

The production requires an enormous amount of organisational and time management skills, but Olausen finds the result to be incredibly rewarding.

“Once that stress bears the fruit of actual garments it gives a massive sense of achievement. To take the design, pattern and machine work and create the path for the garment to actually arrive in store and find its way into the wardrobe of one of our lovely customers is a great feeling,” Olausen said.

He believes that everyone who stays with WORLD puts their mark on the brand in one way or another. “We are a team of strong personalities and characters and that is what makes it the right place for me to be,” he said. The most valuable thing he has learned so far working at WORLD is to be yourself. Denise, Francis and Benny of WORLD have always been bold icons of New Zealand fashion, and it was this trio that gave Olausen the confidence to be himself and celebrate that.

“When your first job lasts over ten years you know you’ve found a place that fits and helps create and support your personality – no matter how odd or unusual it might get!” The only other dream that would tempt Olausen would be to become David Beckham... he even has the undies.

Kendell Tobin was scouted at the Chinese Lantern festival at the young age of 13 by Clyne Model Management.

Kendall Tobin CLYNE MODELS

“I never thought of being a model when I was scouted so I thought it would be a cool experience, I never thought it would turn into a career for me,” said Tobin.

Since then Tobin has joined the rosters of Priscilla’s in Sydney, Why Not Milan and The Hive in London.

Tobin loves to travel and meet new people, and found modelling was the perfect combination.

Tobin likes that the fashion industries overseas are much larger which creates more and bigger opportunities to meet people and work with new clients.

However, she also enjoys how in New Zealand you are always working with people you know and are quite often your friends. “I have made some amazing friends and it’s really interesting to learn more about photography and see the final product after a long day of shooting,” she said.

One of the challenges Tobin juggles while modelling is organising future plans because

everything is very last minute in the industry. Now, Tobin is starting to think about going to university to study linguistics or philosophy as she is very interested in culture and language.

When she first started in the industry Tobin looked up to other models, but now aspires to be a good role model one day for young women. She advises fresh faces to only get into the industry if they really want to become a model.

“With the great opportunities and experiences you get, there’s also a lot of sacrifice. I think it’s important to work hard and just go with the flow,” said Tobin.

Her first trip modelling overseas was when she was just 17-years-old and went to New York.

Since then she has worked in Singapore, London and Milan where she has been based for the last few years. Moving forward Tobin plans to spend some time in Sydney in October before returning home to Milan.

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I 11

It all started in kindergarten for Claudia Li, drawing dresses freehand and pricing them for three million dollars each. Li was born in China and raised in New Zealand and Singapore.

CLAUDIA LI

12 I September 2016

Now you can find the 28-year-old designer in a clean t-shirt and a good pair of pants in the heart of New York City. Li completed her MFA at Parsons School of Design in New York but had previously studied painting at Central Saint Martins in London.

“I’ve always known I wanted to do something in art and fashion let’s me tell my complete stories,” Li said.

Most of Li’s family is in the art industry, including her father who is an art dealer. She put her brushes away in her early 20’s as she felt “painting wasn’t fully there,” and that was how she transitioned to fashion.

Both universities contrasted one another but shared similarities in other areas. “The amount of creativity you see at both is very similar, but in different ways,” she added. Li believes a formal education has been invaluable to her, but for others, it depends on what they learn or what they want from it at the end of the day.

The most important skill and challenge for Li is creativity. “The biggest thing for me is creativity because I design every season based on my personal experiences and the rest of the aspects fall into place,” Li explained.

Europe, Japan and Korea are just a few of Li’s favourite places to source fabrics from. “Each season I’m inspired by a different mood that’s reflective of a time in my life,” she continued. For her SS17 collection, she used her garments to translate moments between dusk and dawn.

“There is a feeling of having no inhibitions. No cares in the world. I looked to conceptualise a sense of a budding newfound freedom and really embracing one’s femininity,” she explained.

Her ready-to-wear collections are heavily influenced by personal experiences and growing up as a cultural hybrid has allowed Li to have an authentic standout aesthetic. “Being able to grow up all over the world has definitely had some play in that,” she added. Li feels like New York is the only place she has truly belonged to, so naturally, New York Fashion Week was the best choice for her.

“The biggest thing for me is creativity because I design every season based on my personal experiences and the rest of the aspects fall into place.”

Li designed all of her pieces in the USA and debuted her first collection during NYFW for AW15 after working on J.W Anderson’s eponymous collection.

Before working with J.W Anderson, Li interned and worked directly under Brandon Maxwell, pop icon Lady Gaga’s stylist, for House of Gaga. While working with both Anderson and Maxwell, Li discovered a few crucial tricks to start her own line and break into the fashion industry.

Every day Li gets up, works out and heads into work.

Every day is different, but right now she is researching for her AW17 collection. Li advises young designers never to give up no matter how hard it gets. “If you’re doing something that you truly love you’ll find a way to make it work.”

BEHEMOTHS ADVANCE INTO AUSTRALASIA Leading apparel and footwear companies are increasingly turning their attention to the once neglected Australasia region. Over the review period from 2010 to 2015, a flurry of leading international apparel and footwear brands such as H&M and Uniqlo have entered the Australian market and taken it by storm, with Zara now ranking as the fourth largest brand having only launched a few years ago.

With a wave of new entrants landing on the region’s doorstep all at once, how is the apparel and footwear landscape shaping up?

Australasia: Brand Ranking 2010-2015

ASIA PACIFIC SPRINGBOARD The Australasian market remains fairly unsaturated in comparison to other developed markets such as the UK and the US, with only six global brands featuring among its top 20 in 2015. Despite the region’s healthy performance and mature retail environment, apparel companies chose to focus their attention on the exponential growth rates occurring in neighbouring Asia Pacific region instead. However, in 2011, Zara entered Australia (and is planning to launch in New Zealand at the end of this year), and ever since there has been a myriad of international brands launching into the region, utilising existing logistical operations and the close geographic location to suppliers in Asia.

COMPETITION HEATS UP DOWN UNDER

Source: Euromonitor International

The likes of Topshop, Forever21, COS and Gap have all turned to Australia expecting to capitalise on high disposable incomes, healthy inbound tourism and growing demand for international brands.

Although economic growth slowed slightly, due to soft commodity prices and the waning appetite of Chinese consumers for exports that form the backbone of the local economy, the market remains remarkably robust with real GDP growth of 2.7% expected in 2016. However, a sharp depreciation in the foreign-exchange value of the Australian dollar over the past year or so has pushed up the cost of imports and slightly undermined consumer

confidence. Although rising costs may threaten the fast fashion players’ positioning, it has not deterred continued expansion plans, with H&M expected to operate 18 stores in the market by the end of 2016.

In fact, the continued exploration of the market from low-priced players is only increasing price pressure with discounting becoming commonplace as competition heats up among local brands trying to retain their value share. While profit margins suffer, the looming threat of deflation lingers as the Australian landscape increasingly reflects trends witnessed in Europe and North America. In the face of dominating behemoths such as H&M and Zara, competing on price could prove detrimental to smaller businesses, instead domestic brands would benefit from differentiating themselves, by emphasising design, quality and personalised service, which big brands often falter on.

TIP OF THE ICEBERG

Although expansion into the region by international brands will pale in comparison to the aggressive strategies taken in Asia, scope for future growth remains and with a strong presence established in Australia, many will be setting their sights on New Zealand in the coming years. Armoured with expansive brand portfolios and significant resources, the likes of H&M and Inditex are only just getting started in the once sleepy Australasian apparel and footwear market.

By Bernadette Kissane, Industry Analyst, Apparel and Footwear, Euromonitor International

MARKET RESEARCH YOUR COMPETITORS AND PEERS TRUST. www.euromonitor.com

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 13

Tayla Garriock

Sophie Parsons

ANDRE JOHNSTON

Andre Johnston

Andre Johnston grew up in a small country town north of Gore called Waikaka. In the small rural farming community, her parents owned the local garage in the ‘90s. “I had an amazing sewing teacher who really pushed my level of skills,” Johnston said. In sixth form at school she won the Hetanz Make & Model Competition where she awarded first place in the Daywear Section, the Lingerie Section, second place in the Young Designer Section and walked away as the Overall Winner. The same year, she won her high school’s Clothing & Textile Prize and won the Otago Polytechnic Scholarship for the School of Fashion and Design. She moved to Dunedin the year after to complete her scholarship at Otago Polytechnic and graduated with a Bachelor of Design in 2002. After graduating, Johnston worked as a machinist at Tamahine Knitwear for a few years before returning home to Gore. Johnston is currently looking

Nancy Zhang

Elisabeth Price

RESULTS

OPEN SECTION AWARDS White Willow - COLLECTIONS AWARD

Winner: Viv Tamblyn (Gore) Runner Up: Viv Tamblyn (Gore) Highly Com: Robyn Bats (Massey University, Wellington)

Winner: Nancy Zhang (Bay of Plenty Polytechnic, Tauranga) Runner Up: Eden Ellmore (Otago Polytechnic, Dunedin) Highly Com: Te Orihau Karaitiana (Eastern Institute of Technology, Hawkes Bay)

Winner: Jill Bowie (Dunedin) Runner Up: Debbie Smith & Jocelyn Miller (Gore) Highly Com: Christeena MacDonald-Paea (Timaru)

Fredricks - MENSWEAR AWARD Winner: William Roper (Ara Institute of Canterbury, Christchurch) Runner Up: Pera-Kate May (Ara Institute of Canterbury, Christchurch) Highly Com: Rachel Bell (Ara Institute of Canterbury, Christchurch)

Southern Institute of Technoogy - WOOL AWARD Winner: Sophie Parsons (Havelock North) Runner Up: Viv Tamblyn (Gore) Highly Com: Daphne Randle (Alexandra)

14 I September 2016

Findlay Currie

SCHOOL SECTION AWARDS

Howl At The Moon - STREETWEAR AWARD

New World Gore - RECYCLED AWARD

Laura Black

Hokonui Heritage Precinct - FANTASIA AWARD Winner: Laura Black (Southern Institute of Technology, Invercargill) Runner Up: Jennie Hasler-Jacobs (Balclutha) Highly Com: Simone Montgomery (Port Chalmers)

Heartland Hotel Croydon - NIGHTLIFE AWARD Winner: Andre Johnston (Gore) Runner Up: Peni Moala (Invercargill) Highly Com: Lenon Wakuwa (Southern Institute of Technology, Invercargill)

School Section: The Thomas Green STREETWEAR AWARD Winner: Emma Schdroski (St Matthews Collegiate, Masterton) Runner Up: Zoe Beck (Tauranga Girls High School, Bay of Plenty) Highly Com: Ella Sims (St Matthews Collegiate, Masterton)

School Section: Catlins Soap Company FANTASIA AWARD Winner: Ciara Maslin (Bayfield High School, Dunedin) Runner up: Awatea Leach (Rotorua Girls High School, Rotorua) Highly Com: Zahli Tukapua (Rotorua Girls High School, Rotorua)

School Section: Regional Ford - NIGHTLIFE AWARD Winner: Ella Sims (St Matthews Collegiate, Masterton) Runner Up: Charlotte Ross (St Matthews Collegiate, Masterton) Highly Com: Grace Connery (St Matthews Collegiate, Masterton)

Our thanks to Venture Southland and Hokonui Fashion Design Awards for hosting the Apparel team.

Jennie Hasler-Jacobs

Zoe Beck

after her two children while working part-time at Van de Water Jewellers. She spends her spare time working on new creations for various fashion awards and competitions throughout New Zealand.

As a young girl, Johnston loved craft projects and making new clothes for her Barbies, most of which she sewed by hand. Her mother, Viv Tamblyn, made a lot of her clothes growing up and even a ball gown or two. “My great grandmother was an amazing sewer and she never used a pattern. She cut straight from the fabric,” she said. Her aunt taught her how to cross-stitch and other embroidery techniques when Johnston was 10-years-old. “As far back as I can remember, I have always been creative,” she explained. Johnston said there are also some very talented florists in her family and said this was a passion of hers as well. She has been entering the Hokonui Fashion Design Awards since 1998 and this year Johnston set out to do something different. The elegant gown was structured from an open mesh fabric that featured cross-stitched flowers. Using DMC embroidery cotton she was able to use the holes in the mesh as a grid for the cross-stitching. Overall, the garment took 240 hours to complete. “It’s always such a huge feeling of success and pride to see your own designs being modeled on the catwalk,” Johnston said. It has always been her ultimate dream to win the overall prize and this year her dream finally came true. Winning the Nightlife section as well was icing on the cake. Now Johnston has over 20 awards under her belt in the fashion industry. Her next dream to come true is to start up her own label, which she will begin to look into seriously next year after her youngest child starts school. “I would love to do something on a small scale. Designing and creating high quality, highfashion womenswear with an edgy streetwear feel, but I also want to continue designing one-off pieces, as those are the designs that are special.”

Annah Stretton

School Section: Macca Lodge - RECYCLED AWARD Winner: Lucy McLennan (St Matthews Collegiate, Masterton) Runner Up: Sophie Stevens (St Matthews Collegiate, Masterton) Highly Com: Kate Gough (St Matthews Collegiate, Masterton)

SPECIAL AWARDS Presented Best Paperwork Rachel Kenny (Otago Polytechnic, Dunedin)

Lela Jacobs

Abby Geerling Leone Mason Angela Christie Rachel Kenny

Eden Smith

Jennie Hasler-Jacobs

Alisha Simpson

Merrin Mortimer Karen Malcolm Dominique Burton

MERIT AWARDS - School Section Sophia Romanos Emma Schdroski Olivia Lamb Elisabeth Price

The Fabric Store - BEST USE OF FABRIC AWARD Winner: Rose Tamplin (Dunedin)

MERIT AWARDS - Open Section

William Roper

Caroline Eve - GARMENT WITH THE MOST POTENTIAL AWARD

Viv Tamblyn

Viv Tamblyn

BONZ - HAND KNITTED AWARD Winner: Norah Maclachlan (Bay of Plenty Polytechnic, Tauranga)

BONZ - MACHINE KNITTED AWARD Winner: Viv Tamblyn (Gore)

Tohu Wines - AUAHA AWARD Winner: Zoe Beck (Tauranga Girls College, Bay of Plenty)

Heather Paterson QSM Memorial Trophy - BEST SOUTHLAND DESIGNER AWARD Winner: Viv Tamblyn (Gore)

BONZ AWARD OF EXCELLENCE - School Section Winner: Ciara Maslin (Bayfield High School, Dunedin)

Winner: Emma Schdroski (St Matthews Collegiate - Masteron)

BONZ AWARD OF EXCELLENCE - Open Section Winner: Andre Johnston (Gore)

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 15

Altuzarra Resene Red Hot

Victoria Beckham Resene Lexington

16 I September 2016

Cast out the image of a horrible itchy picnic blanket; fashion designers have used the classic gingham pattern and transformed it into an energetic design element for a variety of occasions. Executed in multiple fabrics across a range of silhouettes, the pattern has shown its versatility and capacity to be used in different high-end contexts.

This season looked to be more modest for Joseph Altuzarra, with lower hemlines and more coverage overall, but as the show progressed the subtleties began to appear. Dangerously high slits in the skirts were perhaps the most direct inference to sex appeal, aside from using red, the colour of passion, and similar to that of Resene Red Hot in his two-piece gingham jacket and skirt.

While the show, in general, had a heavy active wear focus, the overall collection could be summed up in a single word, effortless. This was most apparent in the long sleeved threequarter flared dress in a simple black and white gingham with the black being parallel to Resene All Black. The relaxed cut elegantly cinched at the waist with a simple tie belt was enhanced by the use of pattern, albeit a basic one. Bottega Veneta designer, Tomas Maier, said the show was closely inspired by dance and movement, which explains the heavy

Bottega Veneta Resene All Black

Diane von Furstenberg Resene Sweet Spot

use of off the body cuts, which allowed the fabric to dance as the model walked down the runway. “Wouldn’t it be better to work on a ballet barre and focus on posture, instead of your six-pack?,” said Tomas Maier.

Aided by the stream of natural light that lit up the venue for the runway, Diane von Furstenberg showcased another ultra-feminine collection with a new range of DVF’s signature wraps. While the black and white gingham could be considered too basic, a touch of pink like Resene Sweet Spot at the bottom of this skirt helped elevate the outfit.

Gingham did not feature heavily in the range from Michael Kors, although what little he did use helped drive home his tradition of producing classic American sportswear inspired garments for the everyday consumer. Each piece was wearable in its entirety, and the gingham short-sleeve three-quarter dress with wrap belt in a colour akin to Resene Coffee Break is just one example of an outfit that could transition from runway to streetwear without complication or alteration.

Inspiration taken from the outdoors was clear in the range from Oscar de la Renta, with the runway set to a backdrop of fresh flowers. The show was saturated in soft colours including pink and baby blue alongside a series of floral lace

Colours available from

Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363

Michael Kors Resene Coffee Break

and prints. The gingham used a pastel blue closely linked to Resene Frozen, which was perhaps the most masculine colour in a collection that was heavily feminine focussed. The show captivated the audience to the point where model Karlie Kloss posted on her Instagram, “there is no one on earth who makes a woman feel more beautiful than Oscar de la Renta.”

Known for her eccentric interpretation of core inspirations, Tsumori Chisato ignored the outside world for her runway show, opting to seek new ideas from within and eventually landing on the idea of a fantasy garden. While the theme may have been stretched thin, garden motifs are still visible, underneath the creative flexibility that has been applied to each element of every garment. The most direct link to the garden inspiration would be the giant embroidered flower adorned to this short-sleeved red gingham top in a colour similar to Resene Havoc. The look has a multitude of textures and patterns happening, but in a range that is designed to be taken with a grain of salt, the overall effect is more of an aesthetic adventure rather than an overdesigned outfit.

“I’m a sponge. I’ve lived in L.A.; we have the show in New York, and now obviously we’re back in London. I guess I’ve figured it out from that,” said Victoria Beckham.

Oscar de la Renta Resene Frozen

Tsumori Chisato Resene Havoc

She said this explains the subliminal elements of the show including the surf prints, but emphasised that the collection is focussed on attitude, making things fresh and carefree. The two-piece sleeveless top and long skirt is the best example of the carefree attitude, using mixed colour gingham with one of the colours being matched to Resene Lexington, used alongside a clean white panel on the skirt to balance the two garments.

Faced with a changing clientele, Wes Gordon has done his best to draw on elements of grunge and reproduce them with a high-end aesthetic in mind to please his customers who are demanding edgy garments with attitude while remaining classic and elegant. The result is a collection that relies heavily on subtle construction details and different silhouettes rather than eye-catching patterns, although he did tie in a blue, black and grey gingham A-line dress constructed in a delicate silk, with the blue being parallel to that of Resene Yarra. The dress is a compromise between attention demanding colour and print, and elegant fabrics and cut, ultimately achieving a symmetry between the two.

Wes Gordon Resene Yarra

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 17

STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB Nevermind Bomber, SENSO Timmy I Shoes, RACHEL MILLS Tidal Crop and Wrap Skirt in Black.

18 I September 2016

STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB Duster Coat in Beige Twill.

Croydon Aviation Heritage Centre T-Shirt and CUE Eyelet Belt.

Huge thanks to Venture Southland and the team at Croydon Aviation Heritage Centre in Mandeville.

Thanks also to Pioneer Village & Museum Inc, North Gore.

PHOTOGRAPHER: Tania Walters MODEL: Caitlan Mitchell

STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB Mens Essential Biker, STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB Versus Chorus Shirt and VANISHING ELEPHANTS Pinstripe Cullotte.

STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB Nevermind Bomber, CUE Flared Trousers in Black and MI PIACI Romey Ankle Boot in Black.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 19

NEW ZEALAND FASHION SCHOOL ACHIEVES WORLD RANKING Otago Polytechnic’s fashion graduates represent some of New Zealand’s most exciting new talent – not surprising since the institution now ranks as offering one of the World’s top 50 fashion degrees by the Business of Fashion. The polytechnic was the only

New Zealand school included in the prestigious Global Fashion School Rankings, and one of only four in Australasia.

Simon Swale, Senior Lecturer in Fashion Design at Otago Polytechnic, believes this ranking is well deserved.

“Our small classes allow students to develop their own ‘design identity’,” he explains. “We also offer studiobased learning, exchange opportunities in Europe and Asia, international competitions, client projects, industry placements, and strong international

fashion connections.”

This year, Vogue Italia has once again included polytechnic graduates in its annual supplement. The institution was – once again – the only New Zealand fashion school to feature in this prestigious publication.

FASHION DESIGN Get the Whitecliffe Edge Whitecliffe Fashion Design graduates think creatively, take risks, and have a high level of industry standard technical skill. They are innovators with a personal vision who build careers as highly respected professionals within the Fashion industry.

FASHION SHOW 2017: 20 NOVEMBER

Tickets on sale at ITicket from 20 October PROSPECTUS: whitecliffe.ac.nz

20 I September 2016

LING LI

––– BFA in Fashion Design ––– MFA in Fashion and Sustainability

The calibre of Otago Polytechnic’s graduates also shone at New Zealand Fashion Week recently.

Three 2015 graduates (Ariane Bray, Kenya Quin and Julia Palm) showed collections as part of the newly established Graduate group show, while other alumni provided some of the week’s highlights. Abbey van Schreven’s ‘Maaike’ delivered a typically bold collection as part of a group show representing the burgeoning K-Road scene, while Jessie Wong demonstrated exactly what goes into making one of her eminently desirable ‘YU MEI’ bags with a live demonstration. ‘Twenty Seven Names’ duo Anjali Stewart and Rachel Easting, graduates of Otago’s Design and Art programmes respectfully, delivered another innovative presentation. Forgoing live models for an installation of photographs shot by James K Lowe, Twenty Seven Names offered a thought provoking event – offering a vision of fashion beyond traditional stereotypes.

Simon Swale is proud of Otago Polytechnic’s highly creative, innovative design graduates. “They’re work-ready for the vast range of roles and opportunities the global fashion industry now offers.”

TIA FENG AUT

Tia Feng was just 14-years-old when she stumbled across some old issues of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar in a random corner of the public library.

From there, fashion evolved into a sort of religion for Feng. “I fell in love with the otherworldly editorials, the wide spectrum of creativity and imagination spilling off the runways eight times a year, and just a genuine, deep appreciation for clothing,” she explained.

Currently finishing her postgraduate Honours year in Fashion Design at AUT, Feng is working in the fashion industry as well. Originally from

China, Feng moved here as a young girl but continued to travel back and forth often. “I still carry a lot of my Chinese roots,” she added.

Feng describes herself as the kind of girl at a party who is sipping on bubble tea while stealing the aux cord to queue Drake and dressing her own way. “Chill vibes all around basically,” Feng said jokingly.

The young designer feels she hasn’t fully nailed down a particular style yet, but her latest collection is comfortable, playful and an easy kind of cool. She finds herself inspired by contemporary art, rap music and everyone she is surrounded by. “I’m not designing clothes for everyone, because that’s impossible unless you are Kmart,” she said.

Although Feng prefers to design, she believes in a world where clothing is so cheap, it is so much more valuable to have something that is handmade.

“Sewing is not that hard to learn, but it is definitely an invaluable skill,” she explained.

The most important thing Feng has learned so far is to make lots of friends and not burn bridges too quick.

The friendships Feng has made have created an amazing support network of people who all share the same goals and

the same mindsets. “Knowing I’ll be working alongside them in the industry one day makes me so happy,” she said.

At the top of that support network is her number fan, her mother. Feng’s mother has been above and beyond supportive when it comes to her work and has even packed a lunch or two for Feng when she’s too tired or has overslept.

Feng wants to get ample experience in the industry before she finishes

“I’m not designing clothes for everyone, because that’s impossible unless you are Kmart.” her degree. She has completed a number of internships both locally and internationally from PR to design studios to runway shows. Highlights from her internships so far include; local PR company Showroom 22, Rodarte in New York City and Kastor & Pollux in Toronto. Nothing is set in stone for Feng yet, but she is

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I 21

www.op.ac.nz/fashion Dunedin – Auckland

*As ranked by Business of Fashion businessoffashion.com/education/ rankings/2016

22 I September 2016

Having studied art history in Persia before moving to New Zealand in 2004, Maral Salamanpour has an affinity towards mixing tradition with contemporary design in a distinctly multi-national way.

Textiles run in her family, growing up around her parents who were fabric merchants. Because of this she has always felt a connection with fibre and sought to find an avenue to combine soft textiles with designs for the body.

“I am inspired by Yohji Yamamoto as he often combines tradition with modern design, which is something

NZFW 2016. Designer: JPalm. Model: Simone at Clyne. Photographer: Gabrielle Devereux

New Zealand’s Top Fashion Degree*

MARAL SALAMANPOUR WHITECLIFFE

J02709

determined to see how far she can get in this industry.

In the next two years, she is planning to relocate to London or New York City for even more experience internationally. “I’m the type to work my butt off and see where life takes me. People are scared of failure, but really what do you learn if you don’t fail?” she explained.

The biggest shift in the fashion she has seen is that the industry has become more like a game. “The game of musical chairs where the players are creative directors and the chairs are global brands.

The game is getting faster, with creative directors now changing every five years or less. This means rapid changes in creative direction, revivals for stale brands, and a lot more newness,” Feng explained.

Moving forward Feng feels that simply making a difference will be her biggest challenge. However, her biggest advantage is being from New Zealand.

“We’re genuine people and we have a very distinctive style. I think New Zealanders have some seriously good groundbreaking work to show the world. I really believe in New Zealand talent.”

I aspire to do. While he does this he still remains sophisticated and develops great clothing,” said Salamanpour.

Her history of textiles has led her down the path of experimenting with what can be done to them, specifically around the use of natural dyes. Her approach is extremely environmentally conscious, with a focus on producing products that are socially responsible as a means of combatting the growing level of waste produced by the fashion industry.

Social responsibility is a passion that runs deep, with Salamanpour looking to become an educator by continuing her studies in the field of environmentally fashion, hoping that one day she will be in a position to share her knowledge and make a

“I am inspired

by Yohji Yamamoto as he often combines tradition with modern design.”

significant change in the industry.

Recycled materials, specifically those used for making dye, are of interest for Salamanpour who recently used old coffee grounds to develop dye. Alongside using favourites including indigo, which she said is a great dye that changes and gets better over time.

She was drawn to Whitecliffe because of its intimate environment, one where she has consistent access to the lecturers who are invested in her work. She said the freedom and small classes have helped develop great designs.

“When I learnt about Whitecliffe I thought it would be great. I knew I could come in and take my traditional knowledge and fuse it with western ideas. And to have it showcased in a big fashion show is an excellent opportunity.”

While she may be graduating at the end of the year, she has plans to continue her studies with the possibility of completing a master’s degree overseas so she can further develop her knowledge of sustainable design. Her biggest piece of advice was to take every opportunity given, as it can open new doors and lead to new discoveries.

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JACK CHEN AUT

fashion was to soak up as much knowledge as soon as possible. He said the first two years are critical in learning as many technical skills as they become essential when producing graduate collections.

While he recognises the international opportunities an Honor’s degree present, Chen is looking to start his brand in New Zealand, building a presence and customer base before developing overseas.

Originally from Wellington, Jack Chen had a diverse university experience before taking on a Bachelor of Design majoring in Fashion at AUT, to which he is now completing his Honour’s year. A year spent at Elam school of fine arts and two years studying business at Auckland University could not satiate Chen’s thirst for fashion, and after talking with friends, he decided he needed to learn more.

While he had previous experience in the industry, having run an online boutique that he set up when he was 15, Chen now enjoys sharing his ideas with potential customers.

“I used to import and sell clothes, but when I decided to start university, I didn’t have the time to keep it going. I am at the stage right now where I would rather seek knowledge than money.”

“I used to import and sell clothes, but when I decided to start university, I didn’t have the time to keep it going. I am at the stage right now where I would rather seek knowledge than money,” said Chen.

His work is directed at a consumer level, although he does enjoy working on bespoke creative pieces.

The inspiration for his work is found all around, with anything having the ability to spark a train of creative thoughts. For his post-graduate work, the concept of parachutes has been the overarching theme.

The theme can be seen through various elements including oversized tops, rounded silhouettes and most interestingly a double layered jacket with overcoat which is looped at the hem. The design is constructed in a way that when the customer wears the jacket, the coat drapes over the shoulders and catches the wind, simulating the billowing effect of a parachute.

“Being at AUT, everyone comes from a different background. It has been an eye-opening experience, people asking me whether I’ve thought about something in this way or that way, I enjoy having access to a range of opinions.”

Tailoring and streetwear remain constant in all of Chen’s work, who puts high value in excellent craftsmanship. He said the best garments are ones which involve a high level of hand to fabric.

His advice for new students looking at studying

Tihi King found her way into fashion through modelling. King feels lucky to be part of such an exciting and ever-changing industry. King is a hybrid of Maori, French, Scottish and Irish decent and is based now in Waiatarua.

Graduating in March of this year, King now works as a freelance fashion designer. Her motivation is her five-year-old son, To Karaitiana Blakeman. She plans to make her son proud while being an independent and successful woman. King is currently in her the early stages of building her brand and career. “Action is the fundamental key to success,” King said. Other significant roles model for King is her mother, her sisters and brothers.

However, her tutors also influence her and course directors at Sewtec, fellow students, aspiring designers, established designers and mentors she has met in the industry thus far. King draws inspiration from world icons such as Alexander McQueen, Picasso, Andy Warhol, Rihanna, Russel Brand and Marilyn Manson.

King often finds her inspiration through her Maori heritage, nature and life experiences.

King wants to tell stories through her designs and hopes her audiences not only likes them but appreciates them as well. King has learned a number of valuable lessons from her time at Sewtec. The most important one was to believe in herself. Her worst nightmare would is to be misunderstood in her work.

“Sewing is one of the most important processes as a fashion designer,” she said. It is an invaluable skill that has helped King further in the industry. In the past she worked as a sewing machinist and cutter for a factory wholesaler where she made custom-made products for interior designers and high-end retailers. This experience pushed King to be faster, be more accurate and added significantly to her knowledge of sewing.

“I value this time I had with the ladies at this

“Even if you don’t necessarily sew your own garments, it is still important to know how to do it.”

Pania Greenaway, Miromoda Emerging Designer Award 2016

TIHI KING SEWTEC

Exposure Fashion Show See the next generation of fashion designers 12 November Wellington Tickets on sale from 1 Oct through Eventfinda creative.massey.ac.nz

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 23

wholesaler. They had 20 years experience in what they were doing, I was so lucky to have learned from them and watch them work their magic,” King explained.

Even though King prefers to design, she feels sewing is still incredibly important as it brings your concepts to life. “Even if you don’t necessarily sew your own garments, it is still important to know how to do it,” she added.

New Zealand Fashion Week was King’s greatest achievement to date as she showcased her garments in the NZ Post Miromoda show this year. Another highlight was being asked to showcase her creations at three international beauty pageants through Mila Manuel at Face of Beauty International, as well as the Tiki Ahua Fashion Extravaganza in Rotorua in September.

KINKANG CHEN WHITECLIFFE

When Kingkang Chen was much younger, he had a passion for drawing and fashion. He grew up surrounded by garment construction with both of his parents working in fashion in the small town of Tianjin in China.

It became his dream in high school to be a designer after seeing Alexander

McQueen’s work in some magazines.

After Chen had moved to New Zealand, his parents were keen on him doing a business degree.

“Fashion design became my dream, it was like a natural desire.”

Meanwhile, he finished a foundation course at Auckland University and after that, he applied for a fashion design course at Whitecliffe. “Fashion design became my dream, it was like a natural desire,” explained Chen.

Whitecliffe pushed Chen to express himself, his voice, his thoughts, his vision and his beliefs. His gender-neutral end of year collection consists of strong mix of art, high fashion and streetwear.

“My fusion culture makes me have a unique way of thinking and aesthetic,” he said. Chen believes that sustainable practices are the future of fashion and that fashion is just one big circle.

“It represents the spirit of the generation. It changes all the time,” he added. The skill level of sewing is a fundamental element of Chen’s design, and he believes that good sewing techniques are always very respected.

“It is a very important part of my design and to make my ideas come true,” he explained. Chen finds he is inspired by life experience, love and his friends as well as global fashion icons such as Raf Simons, Walter Van Beirendonck, Comme des Garçon, Hussein Chaiayan and Alexander McQueen.

While interning with Kate Sylvester, Silence Was and Liz Mitchell, Chen said

that it is important to work as a team, pay attention to detail and always think of the customers. Like most students, Chen’s biggest problem is breaking into the local market. “I need to find out the rules of this fashion game,” he said.

Chen believes his unique aesthetic will help him move into the Asian market in the future.

However, Chen has already received several wholesale orders from Japan, Australia and Hong Kong. A big challenge for him right now is figuring out manufacturing. Currently, he is working on his social media partnering with a number of talented stylists, bloggers, photographers and editors to raise his brand awareness.

JESSY LEONARD SERVILLES

Growing up it was always Jessy Leonard that would be getting into trouble at school for braiding other girls hair or doing their makeup. “I’ve always been in love with making things and people beautiful,” Leonard said. Raised in a various range of places in Auckland, Leonard said her childhood was “rather bumpy”. Goat Island is where she

GET THE RIGHT TRAINING The fashion, hair and makeup industries are creative and exciting industries, yet their competiveness can often make breaking into them difficult. Having the right skills, training and experience can be a huge advantage in the industry. Servilles Academy is a hairdressing academy that is unique in their training. They have established strong ties and relationships within the industry, meaning students get to experience first hand how the industry works, and explore their passion while studying. Servilles students have worked backstage at NZ Fashion Week, on The Bachelor NZ and NZ’s next top model as well as an array of theatre productions including The Phantom of the Opera and Evita.

Deciding on your future path can be difficult, your aspirations often change during your study; as you grow, so too do your ambitions. Servilles Academy qualifications are known and valued for their versatility. Graduates aren’t limited when it comes to choosing a career and have gone on to become session stylists, own their own salons, style celebrities, and work in theatre or even on films. A qualification with Servilles means students don’t have to feel pressured into deciding on their career early on; they

24 I September 2016

have the freedom to grow and explore their creativity.

In the competitive environment that is fashion, hair and makeup, having the creative training to do both hair and makeup makes you stand out among the rest.

The strong relationships between them often means that hairdressers will need to work closely with makeup artists and designers, and use their creative training to assist them where they can. They depend on each other to make a shoot work, and to make sure the entire look is complete.

Servilles Academy understands the importance of having these skills and is introducing new courses into their curriculum, including barbering, and eventually make up, making them a full service Academy.

The team at Servilles Academy know how important it is to have versatile skills and to foster and grow relationships in the industry; they factor this into their courses, with high quality and technical training and lots of opportunities in the industry. Their partnerships in the industry, with organisations such as New Zealand Fashion Week, means you enter the work force with both confidence and versatile skills, with many doors open to you.

mainly grew up with her foster parents, where she attended Mahurangi College.

Leonard remembers when she would steal her older sisters clothes, heels and makeup and dance to the Pussycat Dolls when she was 4-years-old. In high school, she realised what she wanted to do and began to hang out in her friend’s mother’s salon. “I would watch her do hair, I was so obsessed I would pay to get my hair done all the time just so I could be in a salon and learning,” she added.

After working with Adrian Barclay and Hayley Pullyn as their hair model, she was convinced that Servilles was the place for her. “Servilles is known to be the very best, and it’s the best decision I have ever made,” she explained. At first, she was scared of letting people down, terrified that she was finally doing what she always dreamed of doing. Leonard’s role models are her late parents and her grandmother Bonbon. Servilles has taught Leonard how to be patient, which is something she has always struggled with. “Nothing amazing happens fast,” she said.

When her course finished, she hoped to work at a Servilles salon and to be with the top hair stylists. She did a workbase for Servilles Albany, where she acquired high-end blow wave skills and how to work as a team. Leonard is now working at the Takapuna Servilles. Her next goal is to one-day travel the world working alongside the best of the best.

She always ends up overworking herself, which Leonard believes is a good and a bad thing. “I am very particular which makes thing difficult sometimes, but my work always ends up seamless and soft which I love,” she said. Leonard uses the Instagram to grow her clientele and believes it is an excellent way to showcase her work.

CHALKYDIGITS

This season Chalkydigits couldn’t think of a better backdrop to showcase their new styles than their fabulously regenerating hometown with its vibrant, ever-changing street art.

The iconic NZ fashion brand has gone from strength to strength in recent years, expanding their headquarters, opening their first flagship design store and now developing the conservation aspect of their company to include a fund for community groups who are working hard to save our endangered birds.

Having carved out a secure niche in the NZ lifestyle fashion market over their first decade, since the Christchurch quakes five years ago Chalkydigits have really amped up their presence in the NZ fashion industry. The opening of boutique retail complex The Tannery gave Chalkydigits the opportunity to bring their office, design and warehouse all under the same roof as well as bringing to fruition a long-held dream of opening their very first flagship design store.

This has enabled the Chalkydigits brand to further cultivate the ethical, locally made creative styles they are so passionate about by introducing a new line of merino knitwear for ladies, and stocking carefully selected brands of accessories, homewares and skincare to offer a complete shopping package to those who share their values of high-quality, environmentallyconscious products.

The growth they’ve experienced from their shop and online store has enabled them to fully embed their passion of saving our precious NZ native birds by earmarking considerable funds for conservation efforts directed towards boosting our native dawn chorus. They have announced they will be supporting the local conservation efforts of both the Picton Dawn Chorus and the Pirongia Te Aroaro o Kahu

LELA JACOBS

Restoration Society in the coming months, helping both groups to eradicate pests and boost the bird numbers in their areas. Picton is hoping to be pest-free by 2020, and Mt Pirongia is preparing the ground to bring Kokako back to their forest.

It’s not the first time Chalkydigits has flocked together with their fans to make a difference. Twice they have raised a substantial sum of money by selling crafty bird badges, from which they were able to fund the return of the South Island Robin to eco-sanctuary and significantly boost the protection efforts of kokako in the Kaharoa Forest.

The deep love they feel for NZ’s fabulous natural environment has always been the inspiration for Chalkydigits seasonal collections and they continue to put into practice their firmly-held belief of giving something back to this land that sustains and inspires them. Chalkydigits’ support of NZ extends further to include collaborations with other creative Kiwis in the design of the distinctive, original prints adorning their garments. Their prints often reflect the quirky flavour of Kiwi humour and are infused with their love of our land.

Remaining NZ-made is a continual, conscious commitment to support our local industry, not just as a nod to environmental concerns, but also to enable new designers to fulfil their creative dreams too. The skill sets of this industry are essential to self-sufficiency and self-expression, and Chalkydigits would love to maintain their ability to manufacture here at home, and are determined to do their bit to keep it alive and flourishing.

To cater for the increased demand for their quirky fashion, Chalkydigits is currently looking for likeminded folk to showcase their unique styles in key areas of New Zealand and Australia. If you love their gear, share their values and are interested in representing their unique brand in your boutique please contact them on info@chalkydigits.co.nz.

With a heavy focus on high-quality fabrics, locally-made garments, and unique explorative thinking, designer Lela Jacobs has carefully built a brand characterised by its minimal and understated approach to strong design.

Relationships and loyalty are at the heart of her designs, drawing inspiration by collaborating with local and international artists from a diverse range of mediums. Her collaborative approach to design is what led to the opening of The Keep, an Auckland-based creative collective studio and concept store designed to give insight and open up Jacobs’ design process. “With having an open studio, it allows our customer an inside look into what we do which is always a valued experience,” said Jacobs. When approaching a new collection, she begins with the fabric, letting it both inspire and influence possible designs, alongside often collaborating with different artists to enhance the fabric.

She is one of the designers who has embraced zero-waste pattern design, an environmentally conscious method that utilises all aspects of the fabric to execute a garment. By doing this, she continuously delivers meticulously designed collections that fall in line with the brand’s luxe qualities, all the while reducing waste. It is a technique that Jacobs has become actively invested in, saying she is heavily involved in the sustainable fashion movement.

Fashion Weeks play a big part in the continued growth of the Lela Jacobs brand, with a big focus on supporting and generating new buyers.

“I’m about to head to Paris Fashion Week, hoping to pick up a couple of great stores through this. So maybe the future holds a bit more global travel.”

On talking about how to develop a healthy business, she said one of the best decisions she has made was to bring on AUT graduate Courtney Perham, who has helped support and expand the brand. This doesn’t stop Jacobs being at the forefront of her brand, however, which is an element she said is incredibly important, as the buyer’s respect when a designer is selling their work, and get to hear the story from the horse’s mouth. While the brand continues to grow, Jacobs said both original and new customers had expressed unwavering support and loyalty to the designs. Offering her advice to new designers coming into the industry, she said the best thing to do is to produce consciously with environmental impact in mind, regardless of backgrounds or situations they have come from.

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FLORAL PRINT Clothing has the innate ability to affect the customer’s mood, with a bold floral prints having the capacity to activate a variety of emotions. However, emotions are not the only thing affected by garment colour, with consumer behaviour also being influenced.

Studies have shown that warmer colours often lead to spontaneous purchases despite cooler colours being more favourable, however in the case of floral design, a single garment can encompass both sides of the spectrum leading to a favourable piece of clothing that also inspires spontaneous purchasing. The research then leads to the conclusion that stocking a range of floral garments could generate additional sales per single transaction.

Successful upselling can also be linked to colour theory, using complimentary colours like red and green which have been shown to be the most visually appealing together. In practice, this could take the form of suggesting a green necklace to go with a red floral coat a customer is interested in, or pairing red floral pants with a green blouse in the window display as to entice new customers into the store.

A notable example of what would sell best paired is the Trelise Cooper Single White Email Jacket with the Cathy Pope Emerald Necklace with silver chain from

Vlad Tichen, Blogger, Stylist

“My fashion thesis is simple. F*** the idols.

Being sceptical, suspicious, reluctant to accept any kind of fashion and style authority is the key to understanding the unique ways of fashion, its trends, general perception, and industry analysis.

These skills you’d need to possess in order to earn the

26 I September 2016

acknowledgement, and eventually steal the show.

One of the most powerful ways to succeed in that field, is to build a social media persona. To do that, take note of all those bits and pieces scattered around you books, weather, TV commercials, your grandfather’s tie

her Emerald City collection.

Colour theory also explores alternative combinations that are successful, including analogous colour pairing which puts together in one outfit three colours that sit against each other in the colour wheel.

This would be achieved by introducing an orange pant, a colour in-between red and green, completing the analogous combination, for example the orange Minkpink cigarette pant.

collection, the last album of Frank Ocean…

You’re creating a super-hero, an invincible alter-ego, someone who’s stronger, faster, smarter, and more cunning than you. Because today no one’s interested in who you really are, we inject the image of who we WANNABE through the good old Instagram into the vein of, well, public opinion. Then we sit back and see whether it was a good medicine.

For me, the need to create some kind of metaphysical, punch-in-the-face fashion project was engrossing. I possessed the necessary knowledge and the industry insight, and had a lot to say. What I needed was some kind of a cool transmission channel, with stylistically appealing ways of execution. That’s how Bad Wears Good was born. Since I established my brand, it was easy for the right people to get to know me and what I do. As for now, I have a fashion Instagram account @BadWearsGood along with the website www.badwearsgood.com, but there is more to Bad Wears Good than just a mere online presence.

I do styling work for movies preparing some cool authentic looks for some damn good actors, write fashion/menswear-related content for online editorials, work with a couple of footwear and apparel companies improving their brand awareness through the social media presence, creating the brand philosophy, building quality website content - all that jazz.

I also collaborate with Samsung NZ, and was currently involved in the campaign for Galaxy Note7, doing some photography at New Zealand Fashion Week (backstage, street style, catwalks, etc.), creating some content for Samsung, and using my social media channels to boost the hype. There’s a lot of work, but I enjoy every second of what I do. People that I meet along the way are my kinda people, and the vibe I get from them is the right kinda vibe. And you know what?

It keeps me going pretty damn hard.

So yeah, f*** the idols. But thank God for friends.”

DARIO GRASSI Photographer and filmmaker Robert Frank, whose ground-breaking book ‘The Americans’ managed to portray the crowded loneliness of American post-war society, once said, “There is one thing the photograph must contain, the humanity of the moment.” Humanity is something that fashion photographers tend to forget when forced to treat models like disposable clothes hangers. Yet fashion photography, as a way of expression, is nothing short of art.

Born in Milan, Italy, and New Zealander by adoption since 1995, Dario Grassi has always been drawn by a unique quality of beauty—the strong, charismatic glow that radiates from personality.

For him, photo shooting is all about capturing that gleam, using light as a tool of revelation.

Grassi became involved in fashion during the Roaring Eighties, when Milan was the beating heart of a worldwide industry. In 1998, he moved to Vienna and continued working in fashion and advertising photography for leading lingerie brand Palmers AG and a few Austrian magazines. Three years later, Grassi returned to Italy and was hired by well-known record labels to take portraits of musicians and singers.

Having moved to NZ over 20 years ago, he has been living and breathing our local fashion scene ever since. After opening his first studio in Ponsonby, he began collaborating with Nova Models and Clyne Model Management, and took part in some of the original NZ Fashion Week events (then ‘Wella Fashion Week’). His portfolio has grown to include Hart Manufacturing and Eye Magazine, to name a few, as well as the inaugural Milano Beach Rumble in Italy.

Meanwhile, the photographic landscape has gone through a radical change. Digital (nearly) killed the film stars. Far from complaining, Grassi identified an opportunity. “On the one side, digital technology has trivialised our profession. On the other, though, it has allowed me to explore different ways of rendering colours, developing ideas and contrasts that had been unthinkable before. It has paved the way for an entirely new dimension.”

In short, photography is alive and well.

Whether through innate talent or experience, the difference still lies in the eye of the photographer.

“I agree with Oliviero Toscani when he says that everybody can read and write, but there are just a few authors.” Parallel to this (r)evolution, the NZ’s fashion industry has undergone its own transformation. “I think the overall market has rejuvenated itself over the last ten to 15 years, by shifting its focus from older, upper-class women to young consumers, thus standards have been drastically reformulated,” Grassi said.

In the past, he added, much more attention used to be given to tailoring techniques and materials rather than creativity. “Today, I see only a few contemporary designers that can combine inventiveness, elegance and high-quality fabrics, and one of them is Turet Knuefermann, TK.” While continuing to work with both new designers and bigger brands, Grassi has a handful of projects in the pipeline for the coming months.

First, putting together a personal exhibition, to sum up his career and present it to a wider audience. Second, merging fashion and New Zealand’s natural wonders into a great photo book, to be published in Europe. “I have had this dream for quite some time now. In my vision, it could also help promote this beautiful country overseas.”

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