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SEPTEMBER 2019 I VOL 52 I NO 09
editor ’ s note
MORE STUPIDITY THAN SENSE
I hoped this year would be different. Should I be surprised that it wasn’t? Something has to change. Someone at some point has to stand up and say hey maybe this isn’t the best way to do this anymore. It’s me, I’m saying it right now. If you’re a long-time reader, you’ve read my editorials on the mishaps and missteps at New Zealand Fashion Week for the last decade. Last year I wrote about the tremendous improvements which made a huge difference these initiatives were lost again this year. Someone with industry knowledge and general nous about doing business did the seating plan last year, putting more buyers and fewer influencers in the front row. Who thought it would be a good idea to put international and local buyers in GA Standing?! As one buyer next to me said, “It’s alright, I mean I only spend $100,000 with them a year”. Another said: “Well, we won’t be doing business with them again. It’s just rude”. “We have money to spend and can’t even see the clothes,” said another buyer about this year’s shows. I spoke to so many wonderful Kiwi buyers who were GA (general admission) – or second row if they were lucky - but GA did turn out to be front row for some more flamboyantly dressed fashionistas as the self-titled front-row royalty (AKA models and influencers) didn’t even bother to show up. “I’m only going to five of the shows,” said one influencer who had a front-row seat to almost every show. The VIP delegates turned out to be just a portfolio of ‘very insignificant people’. Two university students did catch my eye on the first day for their clownish styling, the duo only had GA tickets to the shows and yet I saw them being ushered to the front-row every day to fill the seats. It made my day seeing them grinning ear to ear, at least someone was having fun. Alas, this is not what we’re here for – it’s business and business was not going well. I would have loved to see the local and Australian buyers treated with more respect. After all, they are there to do business, not just play at fashion, and isn’t that what fashion week is supposed to be about. I could spot the buyers a mile away, but unfortunately, the seat planner and ushers couldn’t. The staff handling the seating at New Zealand Fashion Week should have a long term and intimate knowledge of the industry. It’s the industry they chose to work in and are passionate about, right? So to those seat planners, work in fashion or pick up an Apparel magazine, read something about the industry, and learn about it. After all, we’ve been around for 50 years and have covered many fashion weeks around the world.
Basic rules of doing business at any fashion week: • • • • •
•
• •
No NZFW staff should be in the front row. Don’t put your friends and family in the front row. Don’t put consumers in the front row. Don’t put influencers in the front row, unless you’ve no buyers or retailers to invite! Contact buyers who you want to stock your brand and personally invite them to your show with a follow up one-on-one appointment. Network your butt off with the people around you. Someone’s brother’s wife owns a retail store, remember it’s a village - talk to people, not just your friends. If you’re shy pick another industry to work in. Every time you allocate a seat in the front row, ask yourself “What can this person do for my business?” Finally, don’t put barriers up to doing business, this may be your one-shot, make it work for you.
The front row should be reserved for international buyers, current stockists, and new Kiwi buyers. Allow maybe five to eight seats for media. You can email your lookbook to any consumer magazine any time of the year, they don’t actually need to come to your show. It’s New Zealand, let’s keep it real and note that internationally shows are getting very real and all about doing business. The seating plan itself should be controlled by the designer, not giving the designer control over seating is a mistake. So is leaving the designer with a small handful of seats to work with. One designer told me how sorry she was to put in me in the second row, that she only got eight front row seats and they went to her buyers, I get it but as I couldn’t see the show I switched off and that designer just doesn’t get coverage. The problem is when you put media in the second row and they see it on their pass – they don’t even bother to show up because if they can’t see, can’t take photos that are their own there’s little point in wasting everyone’s time. Then we have the added problem of GA filling the front rows. Long story short; there were a lot of front row seats to fill, buyers were ignored, and a lot of angry media were also ignored. If you want an editorial and photos about your brand - put the journalist in the front row so that they can see and report on the show. Win-Win.
Lagerfeld: The Chanel Shows By Simon Procter
English photographer, Simon Procter encapsulated a series of Karl Lagerfeld’s iconic runway looks from the past ten years of Chanel’s most significant fashion shows. This visually stimulating read introduces readers to the world of epic runway production alongside the ingenuity of the fashion itself. Procter successfully combines a variety of photographs that provides readers with a powerful vision. For all lovers of high-end fashion, runway production and Lagerfeld’s exceptional reputation, this is a coffee table must-have.
Ballerina Project By Dane Shitagi
The aesthetically pleasing, pink satin cloth wrapped book by New York City-based photographer, Dane Shitagi is based on the popular Instagram account, Ballerina Project which holds over one million followers and contains an archive of worldwide prominent ballerinas. With photographs set in places from America to Europe, the accuracy, artistry and attention to detail in each photograph is evident. Shitagi exceptionally captures monochrome and colourful images which successfully holds the reader’s gaze in each photograph. No doubt readers will marvel in the beauty of Shitagi’s creativity and the grace of ballet.
Prada Catwalk: The Complete Collections By Susannah Frankel
The iconic brand Prada has successfully evolved the fashion industry since 1913, when it was originally founded as a luxury leather goods house. This sophisticated read by Susannah Frankel includes a brief history of the house and explores each of the renowned collections worn by some of fashion’s most recognisable models, like Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss. Each collection engages readers through not only the exceptional photographs, but also the detailed descriptions of these remarkable beauty looks.
Slay
@ApparelMagazine
By Brittney Morris
Janet Guan CHAIRMAN Peter Mitchell INTERNS Neelam Ranchhod PUBLISHER Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287 EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand CONTENT MANAGERS Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand 9 304 0142 EDITORIAL STAFF Chris Glavovic +64 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all
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fashionable reads
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enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2018 NZ Apparel Magazine.
This fictional story is centred around high-school student and game developer, Kiera Johnson who has designed a popular roleplaying card game called Slay for Black Gamers. Kiera lives a double life as she is the only Black student at Jefferson Academy, but she must maintain her secret of not telling anyone she has created Slay, especially after someone is killed over the game she has created. This nerdy novel effectively creates a conversation over race and privilege and is not only captivating but also educational.
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fast five
RETAILERS REVEALED IN REVIVED MALL Newmarket’s 277 has finally opened its doors to the public after a much needed makeover. The Westfield Mall introduced its first 40 stores of the development much to the delight of shoppers. The opening included the first stores in New Zealand for brands Coco Republic and Under Armour. Kiwi favourites like Kathmandu and Farmers have also reserved a space in the new mega-mall Westfield’s parent company Scentre Group were pleased that the new 277 was causing a stir. “The level of excitement shown by the community
and our customers reinforces our commitment to continue delivering the best curation of products, services and experiences” said chief operating officer, Greg Mills. The first stage opening helped meet Westfield’s target of being open in time for the Christmas season of 2019. Another 200 stores across five levels are to be opened upon the completion of the complex. The most anticipated opening is David Jones, the luxury store slated to open next year. It will be the second David Jones to open in New Zealand, after
the arrival of their Wellington flagship in 2016. In addition to fashion retailers, Westfield Newmarket will see the addition of dining experiences, cinemas, and activities for families. Westfield has also innovated shopping with the Westfield membership program, Westfield Plus, a mobile app for customers to download. It will offer Westfield Newmarket customers benefits, including two hours free parking and free parking with entry after 6pm, making it easier to park and shop all over Newmarket.
BIODEGRADABLE TEXTILES
A DECADE IN THE MAKING Kiwi brand Loobie’s Story is celebrating ten years in business. Brent and Laurinda Sutcliffe embarked on an adventure around Europe and Asia to dream up their first collection. “I wanted to create a brand that was feel-good, uplifting and feminine,” explained Laurinda Sutcliffe. “Urban essentials infused with the bohemian essence of exotic locations I had either visited, aspired to visit or dreamt of.” Today, the brand stands out for its unique prints, quality materials,
2 I September 2019
and piece buildability. The label wants to create pieces that transcend seasons, and are easy to pair with anything in their existing wardrobe. Sustainability is a growing focus for the business and for this very special milestone, the brand released a roadmap to its sourcing and manufacturing process online. The resource enables their customers to see where their clothes come from and can see regular updates and new developments.
Schoeller launched a new collection of sustainable, biodegradable textiles as part of a joint venture with Taiwanese apparel and accessories company Formosa Taffeta. The ProEarth range utilises Bluesign-approved fabrics made of biodegradable polyester, and launched at Première Vision Paris. The Swiss textiles solutions company was the first activewear and leisurewear manufacturer to receive Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification, as well as being one of the first companies to sign the UN’s Paris Agreement for climate change. ProEarth was developed to help offset the more than 100 million tons of textile waste produced each year in
the United States alone. The collection launched with five Bluesign-approved fabrics designed for lifestyle, fashion, and outdoor categories, and its material is made with virgin polyester optimised for biodegradation. The fall range includes jacket, pant, and lining materials, available in several colour options. Each one of the ProEarth fabrics can be enhanced with Schoeller’s eco-friendly finishing technology. The company’s eco-dye technology saves up to 30 percent of the water, energy, and processing time used for dyeing regular polyester, whilst its Ecorepel Bio and 3XDry Bio technologies are PFC-free and based on renewable primary products.
VANS X VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
TIMBERLAND TO PLANT 50 MILLION TREES IN 5 YEARS Since 2001, Timberland has planted more than ten million trees worldwide. Launching their new campaign Nature Needs Heroes, the global fashion giant Timberland has committed to planting 50 million trees within the next five years. The bold move is part of Timberland’s longstanding commitment to make products responsibly, strengthen communities and protect and enhance the outdoors. A new research (by a Swiss University) reported that a worldwide planting programme could remove two-thirds of all the emissions that have been pumped into the atmosphere by human activities. Over the next five years, Timberland will support multiple re-forestation initiatives around the world to reach their 50 million tree goal. These organisations include; the Smallholder
4 I September 2019
Farmers Alliance, GreenNetwork, TREE AID, the UN Convention to Combat Desertification, Connect4Climate, World Bank Group, Justdiggit, Las Lagunas Ecological Park, Trees for the Future, American Forests, and Treedom. “At Timberland, we’re conscious of the impact our modern way of life has on the planet. And we believe as a global lifestyle brand, and as individuals, we have a responsibility to make it better,” said Jim Pisani, global brand president, Timberland. “Trees and green spaces help improve the quality of our planet as well as individual wellbeing. Our commitment to plant trees is a real, measurable way to act upon our belief that a greener future is a better future. We encourage people everywhere to join the movement by taking their own actions - small or large - to be heroes for nature.”
Vans have collaborated with British Fashion house Vivienne Westwood to create a footwear capsule collection to encourage fearless individualism and expression. The collection includes the Sk8-Hi Platform, Checkerboard Slip-On, Style #53, the Old Skool and the Authentic which all depict the iconic Westwood archive prints, graphics and design notes. The Sk8-Hi Platform compliments the collection and is inspired by Vivienne’s 1981 pirate boot and outfitted with a natural vegetable dye tan leather, printed postage stamp listing the collaboration launch date and a leatherbound outsole. The Checkerboard Slip-On features Van’s original checkerboard patterned layered with Vivienne’s DESTROY graphic. Westwood
improves the original style by subverting the design to include larger scale checks. Style #53 was specifically chosen from Vans ‘90s archives, the loafer style slip-on features black suede uppers, black lugged outsole and Vivienne’s multi-coloured metal orb. The Old Skool and Authentic Styles showcase the Orb and Lightning Bolt print from the collection of house prints. The Old Skool is furnished in oxblood suede with a contrasting mustard stitching and gum sole and the Authentic, is presented in a new vivid sky-blue colourway. The Vans x Vivienne Westwood Anglomania Collection will launch in stores and online September 20.
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packaging
Custom Printed Bags & Boxes After starting out in the fashion industry, Clara Cassidy founded Custom Printed Bags & Boxes in 2012 after spotting a gap in the packaging market for fully customisable packaging solutions. “I had started a luxury sleepwear business and wasn’t able to move forward with the business because I was unable to find luxury packaging to the exact size, style, and printing specs that I envisioned for my brand,” Cassidy told Apparel. “I decided to fill that gap in the market myself and started Custom Printed Bags & Boxes.” Working mostly with marketing agencies, graphic or packaging designers, and corporates who need highlyspecific bags or boxes for marketing campaigns, Custom Printed Bags & Boxes has gone on to produce an eclectic variety of custom packaging over the years, including a faux fur box designed to represent a polar bear, a haunted houseshaped box, and boxes featuring holographic printing. “We pretty much tell our clients, ‘You tell us what you want, and we will try to make it for you’,” said Cassidy. The company has even incorporated electronics into some products: “One of our most memorable projects was a circus-themed box with lights and sounds that played when opened,” said Cassidy. “We needed to create a promotional gift box to present six different flavours of yoghurt, with the end user being children, so the box needed to be something a bit fun.” Rather than carrying stock, Custom Printed Bags &
Boxes produces products customised to each client’s unique needs and offer small quantities which cater to companies that only need a short run of custom boxes – usually corporates who want luxury VIP gift boxes or marketing agencies in need of media kits. “Our clients can come to us with their concept or design for their box or bag needs for the project or campaign and we will work with our production team to create it,” said Cassidy. “We don’t have a maximum limit, but we generally only receive small order requests due to the nature of our offering. We have done as few as 15 boxes before for a client’s VIP gift box needs.” Custom Printed Bags & Boxes’ recent projects include working with an agency to create a product launch box for the new Kit Kat Gold flavour. “We were able to manufacture a box to look like a Kit Kat bar, and to keep with the theme of gold we used gold foil paper stock, with a subtle embossed logo.” The company also helped launch a new pumpkin-flavoured product for Halloween, briefed to create a box to a specific size themed around the festival. “As the box is quite tall, to save on storage space and delivery fees from the factory we had to create a rigid collapsible box that, when popped up into a box shape, wasn’t recognisable as a collapsible box,” said Cassidy. Built into Custom Printed Bags & Boxes’ business
model is an inherent need for variety and innovation, something Cassidy sees as a perk. “It’s really fun for our customers to be able to think up ideas and see their unique concepts come to life.” By crafting unique and luxurious packaging solutions, Cassidy is able to provide her clients with a recognisable and attentiongrabbing means of displaying their product. Whether it’s a chocolate bar or packaging for a hotel key-card, the need to stand out from the crowd is universal in the modern marketplace. “The element of surprise or ‘wow factor’ is the most important element of packaging today,” Cassidy explained. “To set their brand apart, be share-worthy on social media, and be memorable for your clients and target market, brands often see packaging as just as important as the product itself.” For more information email admin@cpbab.co.nz or visit www.cpbab.co.nz.
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noissue
Founded in late 2017, noissue was created with the goal of making custom, sustainable packaging accessible for brands of all sizes. Custom packaging elevates your customer experience and is the perfect finishing touch to any purchase. “Custom packaging is usually only available for big businesses, and new businesses or medium-sized brands haven’t had an accessible option until now,” explained noissue’s marketing director Ben Conard. “We’re here to help with that. We have incredibly low minimum order quantities, all of our offerings are sustainable, and you can design everything online and get it delivered in three weeks or less.” noissue offers businesses custom printed tissue paper, custom paper stickers, compostable mailer bags, and have just launched a compostable custom packaging tape. Proudly boasting a full range of custom printed packaging options, all of which can be easily designed on their online design platform. Compostable mailer bags were a big achievement, especially because they are certified for home compost and break down in six months. “It’s rare to get to bring out a product that really has the opportunity to change how people interact with their packaging,” Conard added. “Starting conversations about the possibilities of packaging is what we’re here to do.” Minimum orders start at just 250 sheets of tissue paper or stickers which has enabled them to work with a vast range of small and medium businesses. “We haven’t had a job too big yet, but I’d love to see what it might be!” Their most popular service is their custom tissue paper which is incredibly versatile. Use it for wrapping, filling, lining boxes; custom tissue paper adds a level of brand quality that’s hard to match. The team at noissue is excited to work with businesses that are actively embracing sustainability in their day-to-day practices. The real joy for them is to provide an unparalleled service for brands that might not be entirely focused on their environmental impact but chooses noissue because of its high quality service. Customers love and appreciate sustainability because it is one less thing to worry about, and brands
are happy to add another sustainable element to their business. “Our approach is to try to make sustainable packaging the norm, not the exception.” Packaging is no longer just a functional tool and is now a fully integrated part of brands. With the rise of unboxing videos on social media, consumers are eager to share brilliant branding and this is a fantastic opportunity to make another impression with customers. Currently rolling out packaging bundles for businesses that fit their specific needs, noissue can provide them with everything they need to package their goods in one convenient option.
The company enjoys working with its local communities, for example, noissue’s Eco Packaging Alliance, a group of businesses committed to using environmentally friendly packaging. Members receive a badge to display on their website and storefront. Their Creative Community is also blossoming. noissue works with several creative design agencies and illustrators to showcase their designs and help them connect with their customers who might want to collaborate. noissue is incredibly active on Instagram, so don’t be afraid to direct message them at @noissueco or email hi@noissue.co for more information.
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essential stock
MURPH & MURPH Australian designers and sisters Cath and Anna Murphy created their label to produce complementary accessories to suit their active, outdoorsy lifestyles. Ethically sourced, their products are versatile, adaptable, sleek and functional. “I needed a bag that was strong, large and allowed me to separate the wet from the dry,” said Anna Murphy. “We wanted secure pockets for keys and phones, an insulated pocket for a water bottle, and although it needed to be durable, it still had to look good enough to take from the beach to the bar.” For more information or to become a stockist, call 0413 800 553 or email info@murphandmurph.com.au.
SHAPES IN THE SAND This timeless belted one piece uses one of Shapes in the Sand’s bold prints which draw inspiration from nature. The result is a playful and unique aesthetic with a comfortable design. Their responsible Australian-made swimwear cannot be found anywhere else. Made with sustainable fabrics, this season pulls inspiration from fish and their importance in our ecosystem. The label partnered with shark conservationist Madison Stewart to create the new Pisces collection in support of her Project Hiu. For more information or to become a stockist, email enquiries@shapesinthesand.com.au.
SHAPES IN THE SAND Shapes in the Sand pairs prints with comfortable styles to create stylish signature looks. One of their best-sellers is their classic Mid Rise V Pant. The ultra-comfortable style looks great on a variety of body shapes and doesn’t cut into the skin. While it is a mid-rise pant, it doesn’t come across as a ‘granny’ pants. Each season, Shapes in the Sand partner with an environmental organisation and support special projects that relate back to the inspiration for each collection. For more information or to become a stockist, email enquiries@shapesinthesand.com.au
GEMMA LEE Gemma Lee is a surf and swim label with sustainability at its heart. The label has perfected the art of surf style that has planet ocean at its forefront. Each Gemma Lee suit is a limited edition vibrant beautiful wetsuit handcrafted from lime-stone based neoprene and PET recycled bottles. Along with swimwear made from recycled nylon fibres such as discarded fish nets. Gemma Lee suits are the perfect combo of bold and playful, because the ocean is our playground. For more information or to become a stockist, email gemma@gemmaleesuits.com.
8 I September 2019
EMMA FORD Renowned for its innovative design and flattering cuts, the swimwear label Emma Ford is proudly New Zealand made. Inspired by minimal 1980s and 1990s, the pieces are made from the highest quality Italian lycra. Designer Emma Burton’s background is in stretch and exotic-wear brings a wealth of technical knowledge to her label as well as confident design direction. For more information or to become a stockist, email info@emmaford.co.nz or visit www.emmaford.co.nz.
MOONTIDE This year’s Moontide collection showcases the brand’s continued drive to combine fit and comfort with contemporary design for every woman. Form-hugging underwires and cups create new shapes that team with designs that bring body-confidence to the latest looks. The body-suit is back, taking us from swimwear to ready-towear and teams with a palazzo pant for an elegant après-beach look. A vintage silhouette runs through this year’s collection with highwaisted pants and balconette bras. For more information or to become a stockist, email sarah.taylor@moontide.com or visit www.moontide.com.
PIHA SWIMWEAR This season Piha brings the fun to the sun – whether you’re on a beach, at a festival or living it up the pool. The playful, free spirit of the Piha girl runs through the entire collection, providing the perfect swimwear for those whose hearts truly lie in the salt water. The slice and dice nature of Tartan Mix breaks all the rules. Florals, tartan and geo prints collide, resulting in unlikely striking combinations. For more information or to become a stockist, email sarah.taylor@moontide.com or visit www.pihaswimwear.com.
ARTESANDS Artesands is a brand that is filled with passion, commitment and persistence striving to break down the stereotypical swimwear industry. The inspiration for the brand came from our stylish, curvy and confident friends struggling to find fashionable swimwear to support and fit their body shapes. “We understand that all women’s bodies are uniquely different and breathtakingly beautiful in their own artistic right” explained the designer Kathryn. “Every women’s body is a body of art.” Sculptured to fit curves, you won’t find any six packs or thigh gaps on their models. Artesands is on a quest to normalise the human body, as it’s everyone’s right to enjoy the summer. For more information or to become a stockist, email info@artesands.com.au
meet the buyer
Head Over Heels GRETA WASHINGTON
Head Over Heels focuses on handcrafted shoes made in Europe. Buyer Greta Washington travels to Italy to handpick shoes specifically with her customers in mind. “We carry a diverse range of styles and cater to a wide age group,” Washington said. “In our stores, we offer an intimate level of customer service and are always trying to cater to our customers’ needs and styles.” Growing up, Washington was surrounded by the industry as her mother was in retail for three decades. With 20 years of buying under her belt, Washington said her mother let her make a lot of decisions from a very young age. “I learned a lot on the job, you learn to trust and go with your gut instinct.” Head Over Heel customers are independent, confident and appreciate quality and style. It’s important for Washington as a buyer to also work in the store and engage with customers so she knows what clients are looking for. “The level of service you get in a boutique is more intimate, you get to know your customers really well,” she added. “There is also a passion for the brands we stock which is passed onto the staff.” When buying, Washington said she is very visual, and sometimes you just know it when you see it. Quality workmanship is very important for the shape and form of the shoe as well. She is always looking at current trends as well as classics and carrying brands which have their own niche. Washington takes on large quantities and small ones, depending on exclusivity and unique injection ranges within the season. A lot of their portfolio is affordable luxury, with shoes made in factories where a lot of high end luxury shoes are made in Italy and Spain. Washington aims to buy shoes which practice sustainability in the workplace – how the shoes are made, sustainable materials and so on. “We like to offer our customers wellmade shoes which last for years.” The industry has changed so much since the brand first opened over 10 years ago. When they first started, Head Over Heels didn’t have an online
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store or any social media platforms. The power of having these elements has allowed them to reach customers all over the world. Having just finished buying for next winter, Washington is loving all the animals prints, croc and python leathers coming through. There is still a strong influence on western styles and combat boots. In terms of toe shapes, Washington said there is a movement towards masculine square toe shapes which she absolutely loves. “We are also very excited about our exclusive collaborations we are doing with New Zealand designer Beau Coops.” Washington added that she believes people are wanting to spend money on items which will last
longer than a season. With climate change and the impact fast fashion has on the environment, she believes people are taking into consideration the longevity of the fashion items they purchase. The growth of their online business has been huge and the team is planning to expand and develop this further. “We are constantly working towards expanding our brands and collaborating with designers to create exclusive styles,” she said. “The goal is to have our own in house brand and this is something we are currently working on for Winter 2020.” For more information, email greta@headoverheels.co.nz.
The level of service you get in a boutique is more intimate, you get to know your customers really well, there is also a passion for the brands we stock which is passed onto the staff.
PRESENTS EMERGING DESIGNERS SHOWCASE AT VANCOUVER FASHION WEEK
Apparel Magazine is showcasing emerging designers at Vancouver Fashion Week’s SS20 season. This unique opportunity is thanks to our ongoing partnership with Vancouver Fashion Week which allows three upcoming designers to showcase their designs on an international stage to a range of international and local media, buyers, agents, and industry influencers.
I had an amazing time! Having all the eyes on my garments then meeting media was the best feeling. I got a lot of really good feedback on my collection as well. It's awesome to have the experience of being in an international fashion show and will definitely count for something in a portfolio. Caitlan's and Tania's experience with runway shows was extremely helpful and I’m really grateful they were there to make things run smoothly and give advice.
Bradley Smit
12 I September 2019
It was an amazing opportunity to be able to showcase at Vancouver Fashion Week. My label is still at the beginning stages so with showing at Vancouver Fashion Week I was able to get a lot of exposure and it was a great way to network with other designers and media. Also being able to come out with a couple of my looks right after the show was a great way to interact with the media and audience in which I received a lot of positive feedback from. I also found a lot of value in attending the Fashion Camps as I learnt a lot from them. Many thanks to the Apparel team for giving me this incredible opportunity.
Wairata Warbrick, WAIRATA
The highlight of my Vancouver Fashion Week would be the Fashion Camps alongside seeing the high calibre of work from all the other talented designers and the diversity of skills and designs. It is a true community and getting to meet so many like-minded people was amazing. There was an overwhelming amount of support and praise I received on the other side of the curtain from both media, friends, family and complete strangers.
Taania Wesselius, AANIA
Aurora Mayari Combining a passion for sustainability with her unique cultural concept, Anastasia Brodrick’s label Aurora Mayari uses techniques like Boro and Sashiko stitching. “The traditional patchwork evolved out of necessity. When a kimono or futon started to run thin in an area, a small piece of scrap fabric would be sewn over the area with the Japanese running stitch,” explained the emerging designer. The garments were traditionally worn by commoners, fishermen and farmers but were reimagined by Brodrick with a high fashion edge. Brodrick engaged with sustainable practices by utilising recycled materials and repurposing them into contemporary evening wear with these unique Japanese techniques. “My goal was to create contemporary investment pieces that will be reminiscent of the original kimono,” she said. For Brodrick, sustainability is not only about preserving the environment but retaining our cultural heritage. “We should be continuing to pass on traditional knowledge and techniques, so future generations have the opportunity to experience and learn original methods developed hundreds of years ago.” Sixty percent of this collection was made from recycled materials. “I really wanted to have a 100 percent recycled collection, but as you go through the design process your concept evolves, and you just have to kind of roll with the punches and adapt.” Brodrick’s method of design is also a homage to the past, as she finds herself steering away from modern technology in favour of a more hands-on approach to the creative process. “I prefer to drape on the mannequin for the majority of my designs, I usually find that it is faster and easier for me to design in 3D instead of drawing,” she revealed. The most important skills she has learnt are her technical sewing and pattern making techniques. “To me, I think it’s all well and good if you have great design ideas, but if you cannot execute your idea into a physical garment, you are left at a standstill.” Brodrick is excited to translate her passion for fashion into a business which combines her love for sustainability with great style and functionality. “I think there is a real opportunity for me in the future to create contemporary fashionable and sustainable clothing for women of all sizes.” www.auroramayari.com.au @auroramayari
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JIMI Emerging designer Jimmie Mackay has been designing since 2014, his designs were also featured at New Zealand Fashion Week in 2017 and 2018. In 2014, he won a fashion industry trip where he traveled to India to showcase a mini collection and spent six weeks going through the local manufacturing process. Featured in numerous publications, his label JIMI focuses on producing bespoke and made-to-order pieces. Mackay does a large portion of the design process, and works closely with a seamstress for the final pieces. “I have been creating leather pieces for the past year which I do in a local workshop.” The collection showing at Vancouver Fashion Week was inspired by the idea of sexualised rebellion. “It has a non-conformist undertone,” Mackay said. “I have used a range of different textures to create stand out looks that poke fun at traditional casual wear.” He added that the leather he has used in the collection is very lush. Mackay is excited to share his brand, network and see what’s unique at Vancouver Fashion Week. “Travel is such a great way to gather and inspire new ideas.” www.facebook.com/jimiclothing @jimi.clothing
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PERA MAY Launching the label straight off London Fashion Week’s runway in September, the eponymous label Pera May is the one to watch. Titled Collection One, it was inspired by society and consumerism, and how it can trap people into feeling as though they have to conform to social pressures and ideas of warped beauty. “I think it relates back to the American Dream, the consumerism-era where they swept it under the mat,” explained May. “This is where my ‘nothing to see here’ custom print comes from. The idea of sweep it under the mat, pretend it’s not happening, move along scenario.” May explained that global warming was another example of this; if we can’t see it or choose not to see it, it’s not there. “It’s not pressing enough for many people because of a range of reasons, but it’s the ‘nothing to see here’ mentality that’s the issue.” From tall poppy syndrome to Instagram removing likes, May said all of these negative impacts come back to what consumerism has done to our population. “I think it’s important to remind people in their busy lives to slow down and think about how we interact with one another,” she said. “To speak and be their truth. There’s (excuse my language) too much bullshit going on. We need to focus on obtainable truth not an unreachable perfection.” The label’s first collection uses natural fibres, stunning silks and cottons with a little bit of byproduct leather. Moving forward, May plans to source the use of alternatives such as pineapple leather and further their work within a sustainable business. “It is easy and it can be done.” Their custom prints are what stands her brand apart from the rest. Filled with personality, Pera May boasts its uniqueness. “It’s not perfect, it’s not all the same, it’s unique – like every human being is and should feel.” www.peramay.com @peramay___
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Sheer GUO PEI Resene Moonlight
SYLVIA VENTURINI FENDI Resene Away We Go
heer and see-through fabrics were at the forefront of fashion in the eighteenth century in Europe as seen in neoclassical gowns. Nude and skintone hued sheer fabrics in particular coined the name ‘illusion’ as they perceived to showcase more skin than appropriate in its era. Despite its booming popularity in the eighteenth century, you can trace sheer fabrics as far back as 3000BC when Saris made from silks with intricate embroidery were commonplace in Ancient Indian dress and culture. Semi-transparent textiles are commonly created from mesh, web, net, knit, and lace, and were the top textiles seen in the Fall season of the couture
16 I September 2019
FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO Resene Duck Egg Blue
world. Guo Pei’s Fall Couture collection did not disappoint; while the models may have floated down the runway, the garments showcased strong designs and packed a punch. Almost every garment stayed close to a hue like Resene Moonlight and a deep black, each utilising layers of semi-transparent fabrics in a variety of ways to reveal and conceal. Within its realm of black, beige and a colour similar to Resene Away We Go, Fendi’s Fall Couture extravagant range was staged against the Roman Colosseum. Heavily influenced by the 1970s, the now solo designer Silvia Venturini created a statement
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Resene Kryptonite
neckline that was apparent throughout the collection. Francesco Scognamiglio produced a dramatic, grungy lookbook for his Fall couture collection. Semitransparent fabrics were a constant in the range, and these pieces were paired with extreme contrasts. For example, this soft lace dress in a colour like Resene Duck Egg Blue, followed by a black sequined short cocktail dress with dramatic shoulders. Predominantly a collection of textured spots and patterns, Jean Paul Gaultier presented a palette of pieces in the realm of black and beige, sprinkled with a green similar to Resene Kryptonite. The waists got higher, the belts got bigger, and sheer fabric was used several times
Delight ZUHAIR MURAD Resene Dynamite
BY FANG Resene Quarter Spanish White
– each for a new silhouette entirely. The stunning embroidery work on this dress by Zuhair Murad was not out of place at the brand’s Fall Couture show. Working with hues like Resene Dynamite, the collection was inspired by North Africa and worked with traditional carpet patterns. Yang Pang showcased a monochromatic structured collection with a splash of red for its finale. Working with geometric shapes, satins, laces, paper, stripes, longline, a-line, i-line – it had a lot of sub themes,
VALENTINO Resene Bluetooth
but was clearly strung together by black and white hues. Sheer fabrics and laces were used in this full length a-line dress with a long sleeve and high neck in a colour like Resene Quarter Spanish White. The high-intensity show delivered on a sorbethued platter by Valentino dazzled the crowd. Welledited, the collection flowed from model to model as the colours evolved as the show continued. An exciting blend of soft tones like Resene Bluetooth were mixed with vibrant purples, pinks and greens.
AUGUST GETTY Resene Eighth Bokara Grey
While sheer was not the hero textile, it was definitely present throughout the range and served almost as a palette cleanser between the louder, more overwhelming pieces. Last but not least, August Getty’s gothic Enigma Fall Couture collection created large sculptural pieces that boast its unusual silhouettes. This dark sheer wonder in a hue like Resene Eighth Bokara Grey, however, stood out for its elegant neckline and layered mermaid flare.
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radar
Sleep & Intimates
Homebodii Classic New Zealand
Established in 1969, Classic NZ have only ever used New Zealand sheepskins which originate from one source – their sister meat companies who procure stock from Quality Assured Farms. Their ongoing relationship provides consistent quality and supply. “This gives us the very unique position within the sheepskin industry to have all Classic Sheepskin products comply with, and carry, the FernMark™ and Buy NZ Made licence. This certification is the mark of a quality sheepskin product.” New Zealand is unquestionably one of the most pristine places on the planet. It is a natural and unpolluted environment with open pastures, fresh air, pure water and sunshine. All of which directly impact on the products produced. Classic NZ are doing their bit to keep it that way by complying with New Zealand’s tight regulations in relation to chemical usage and wastewater
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management and disposal. “We use chromefree sheepskin tanning, which is a more sustainable environmental process that meets or exceeds European Standards under the European Reach Regulations.” Resulting in an extensive range of products you can trust to support its environment and the people around it. Years of experience and the ease of flexibility has established a product range which includes both fully finished products and ingredient supply for further manufacture. The relationship with suppliers allows Classic to procure very tight specification raw material and finish for perfect use. At Classic we can supply small to large scale runs of products in very tight specifications with particular relation to wool density and feel. For direct and trade orders visit our website. For more information visit www.classicskeepskins.com.
Ingrid Bonnor founded Homebodii after finding herself unable to source high quality, feminine robes to wear whilst pregnant with her second child. Rather than giving up, she decided to craft garments herself, and after receiving compliments on her handiwork she set up a market stall in Brisbane with the help of a local dressmaker and started selling to the general public. “The direct feedback I received in these humble beginnings was the best market research I could have asked for, and it showed that many of my customers where Brides to Be searching for something to wear on the morning of their weddings,” said Bonnor. “So that’s when I decided to focus on a bridal range, and then the journey really kicked off.” Since then, Homebodii has branched out from bridal robes into lounge and sleepwear, always maintaining its personalised service and working directly with its customers. Bonnor has been consciously taking steps to incorporate more natural and environmentally friendly textiles into Homebodii’s range. The company recently launched Petra, a sustainable collection, alongside a new Lux Linen Sleepwear collection designed to provide versality and transition from lounge and sleepwear to day wear. “We’ve already had a few gorgeous customers using their linen shirts as an outfit with jeans or wearing their sets as beachwear, which makes me so thrilled!” The new collections represents a first for Homebodii, sourcing premium linen and Tencel’s 100 percent certified sustainable model for the Petra nighties and pyjamas. The ecological and aesthetic benefits are clear, but so too are the ergonomics, as high quality sleepwear lends itself to a good night’s sleep, after all. Bonnor’s mission is to celebrate and empower women. By providing personalisation in the form of an in-house embroidery service, Homebodii can create one-of-a-kind clothing perfect for gifts or special occasions. All the company’s pieces are named after important women in Bonnor’s life who have helped shape her, both personally and professionally. “Homebodii is all about making women feel beautiful,” she explained. “I want every woman to be able to have high quality, unique pieces that have been designed with femininity and different body shapes in mind.” For more information visit www.homebodii.com.
Wallace Cotton For the New Zealand-based bedding and sleepwear brand Wallace Cotton, their philosophy of producing outstanding quality over quantity is of the utmost importance. “We focus on enduring quality and style, with collections featuring exclusive prints, sumptuous colours and classical designs to enhance your interior,” explained Paula Wallace, designer, director and cofounder of the company. Wallace Cotton’s range of bed linen, clothing and homeware are made from ethically sourced natural fabrics. The brand heavily considers the material used and sourced for their products in order to minimise their impact on the environment. “We put cotton in our name because we knew it was important to use natural fabrics that come from renewable sources and that biodegrade,” said Wallace. Wallace Cotton also goes further
Chalmers The first pieces from Chalmers newest range is available in stores across the globe. The Chalmers team are dedicated to keeping their customers comfy, so all of their ranges inherently have an element of trans-seasonal. Though there is always more to do and learn when working towards sustainability, Chalmers are very proud of their recent strides in this space. Introducing two new sustainably sourced fabrications in this collection; the first is a woven fabrication, 100 percent FSC-Certitifed Viscose. Without sacrificing any of the comfort, the new viscose is super soft and lightweight. The second is within the jersey collection, an FSC-Cerftified Mix (Modal blend). The FSC is committed to protecting forests by setting high standards for their responsible management. They are the gold standard in forest certification and are supported by WWF, Sierra Club, Greenpeace, Natural Resources Defence Council and National Wildlife Federation. Taking a holistic approach to their impact, Chalmers is looking beyond their product to their processes and packaging as well. Beginning in 2020, their individual product sleeves will go from biodegradable to being fully compostable
in selecting appropriate partners who meet their moral guidelines. “Wallace Cotton select partners based on their ethical standards and exceptional craftsmanship – who share the Wallace Cotton focus on quality rather than quantity, and who work with Wallace Cotton to create limited quantities of designs.” The brand’s focus on sustainability has had a positive impact on consumers due to the longevity and quality of their products. “The durability of fabrics and attention to quality results in beautiful linen that will enhance your home for years to come.” Wallace Cotton’s future goal to grow their business outside of New Zealand is made possible due to their growing social media following in the UK. Alongside their online store, they recently opened a retail store in London’s popular South-West. Wallace Cotton’s designs are created to be durable, stylish and comfortable. For more information or to place an order visit www.wallacecotton.com.
at home. Made from 100 percent corn starch, these bags will help to minimise the brand’s impact. The Chalmers team will also expand their use of recycled cardboard from their shipping efforts to tags. Confident in streamlining their collections down to several key shapes across multiple prints and fabrications. The team has also invested in adding in more prints to the range. “Our bold, contemporary print signature sets us apart from others in the sleep world, and we are very proud of that.” Focusing on key partners across the globe, Chalmers is putting an emphasis on online retailers. Chalmers can be found on The Iconic in Australia, Nordstrom in the US, and Zalando in Europe. “We have also opened an office at the Cooper Design Space in downtown LA as we focus in growing our presence in the US and European markets.” Chalmers retail partners are very important to them, they seek out partners who have an excellent reputation with customer service, strong and loyal customer base as well as an overall range aesthetic that they can relate to within the Chalmers range. “We shop each of our partners before approaching them; experiencing them through a customer’s eyes is incredibly important in understanding their ethos, and whether or not that sits in with our own.” For more information or to become a stockist, email hello@chalmerspyjamas.com.
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beauty spot
Corbin Rd. Corbin Rd. founder Wendy Nowell-Usticke launched the beauty brand seven months ago. With over 30 years of experience under her belt, Nowell-Usticke has been in the industry working as a makeup artist in film and television to developing the hugely popular Thin Lizzy brand to become New Zealand’s top pharmacy makeup brand for more than 15 years. With the overwhelming, confusing selection of product choices and a personal desire to remove skin irritating ingredients from these, on her mind Corbin Rd was created and designed for sustainably-minded, eco-conscious consumer who demands high performance products that match their values and deliver exceptional, long term health to their skin, their bodies and the planet. Corbin Rd. utilises local ingredients to reduce their footprint and make the most of the
highly effective local botanicals available. The brand strives to minimise or re-use as much as possible to deliver the sustainable promise such as unnecessary dyes used in Packaging or the Viteve™ Silk Exfoliator to packaging. The first product to hit the market running is the Restoration cleansing Balm with Viteve™Silk exfoliating cloth, an innovative, safe, multitasking duo that infuses nourishment into the skin while replacing soap based cleansers, scrubs, microfibre cloths and plastic/nylon brushes. We hear the emerging beauty brand is expanding its range with three to five new products next year with the same functional and sustainable values so watch this space if it’s as successful as it’s hero products then it’ll be win-win for everyone. For more information or to become a stockist, email wendy@corbinrd.co.nz or visit www.corbinrd.co.nz.
Kasbah Luxury Candles Kas Shera launched Kasbah Luxury Candles at the beginning of 2017, with the intention of providing New Zealand consumers with candles made from natural, clean-burning, non-toxic ingredients made from renewable resources. “Our products are all made by hand. Whether we are making a large batch for stockist orders or creating a bespoke candle for a customer, every candle has the same amount of love and attention poured into it.” Working alongside her daughter, Madi, the success of their small family business has grown substantially in the past six months and they will be opening their very own candle showroom at the end of the month. The range consists of 12 different fragrances from the Cocktail Collection
20 I September 2019
to the Noir Collection, all made to complement any space with an aesthetic, minimal design, there is something for everybody. Kasbah’s best-selling candle fragrances are Champagne Cocktail and Little Black Dress. “They are so popular they have their own fan base in New Zealand with customers always coming back for more.” Kasbah continue to develop their range and plan to introduce a few more products in the future. This hand-made soy candle range from Kasbah Luxury Candles is currently available online and at a few stockists around New Zealand which are listed on their website. For more information or to become a stockist, email info@kasbah.co.nz or visit www.kasbah.co.nz.
ED&I Body Proudly 100 percent New Zealand made, Ed&I Body is a transformative suncare range that makes every woman feel confident in their own skin. Made with an exclusive formula that will restore your skin’s natural feel resulting in a youthful, radiant and healthy glow. “We have worked with the world’s finest natural chemists and perfumists to create a unique product that includes New Zealand Whiskey and Cacao,” explained Edna Swart, co-founder of Ed&I Body. The antiseptic properties of whiskey control excess oils that your skin produces and attracts impurities which help prevent acne by removing the bacteria and dirt. Cacao contains high levels of antioxidants that repairs damaged skin and prevents premature aging. Ed&I can be applied all throughout the day to keep your skin safe from UV rays and to maintain a smooth, supple and flawless finish. For more information visit www.edniswimwear.com.
Cheekbone Beauty After what seemed like a lifetime in the food industry, Jenn Harper woke up one morning and decided to follow her dream. Harper launched Cheekbone Beauty three years ago, a digitally native direct to consumer beauty brand. “We are culturally appropriate, customerfocused, highly authentic and relatable,” explained Harper. “We help indigenous youth see themselves in a beauty brand.” Ten percent of all Cheekbone Beauty’s profits are donated to Shannen’s Dream in support of education equity for indigenous youth. Launching her business was no small task, Harper added that no matter how big the idea, it still takes a lot of work and a ton of cash. Reid entered Dragon’s Den, a TV show where aspiring entrepreneurs pitch their business concepts and products to a panel of Canadian business moguls who can finance and support the emerging companies. Harper
has been selected to showcase her business on an upcoming episode of Dragon’s Den on September 26th at 9pm on CBC and CBC Gem. “I am grateful for all the support I’ve received.” Cheekbone Beauty’s latest range boasts a new line of super sustainable lipsticks. Their vision of leaving a great impact on the indigenous youth is pushing them to leave less of an impact on the planet. To lead by example, Harper and her brand use biodegradable packaging and the formula is made of waste and byproducts. “We are taking all the necessary steps to reduce waste in packaging by 2023,” Harper added. “We are slowly making the transition with our goal.” Cheekbone Beauty is a socially conscious, culturally agile and highly inclusive brand that believes in the power of community. For more information, email jenn@cheekbonebeauty.ca.
GEORGE & EDI Sisters Sarah and Rose Agnew launched GEORGE & EDI in 2011 to enable them to explore their fascination with fragrance and how it can transform a space and create a home you love. When you open your door at the end of a busy day, you are greeted by a familiar and delicious fragrance that says, ‘welcome home’. GEORGE & EDI create timeless, quality products that are beautiful in their simplicity with fragrances that bring a little luxury to the every day. They take great care and pride in what they do, valuing slow, mindful production, respecting the age-old craftsmanship involved in candle making and believe the meticulous hand poured process helps them achieve a quality product, whilst eliminating waste. Their fragrant range consists of perfumed soy candles, reed diffusers and room sprays, enabling you to layer the fragrance in your home, five crème perfumes and three natural hand creams. Their tagline ‘live a fragrant life’ represents their belief that it’s the little luxuries and simple pleasures in life and taking time to cherish those ‘little moments’, that leads to a happy and joyful life. For example, when applying their hand cream, make a moment of it, close your eyes, focus on this one simple task, appreciate
how relaxing it feels, the light fragrance you smell as you massage the cream in and how soft your hands feel. It’s a ‘just for you’ calm moment to stop, breath and enjoy. The team are always working on what’s next and love nothing more than an exciting new project, so you never know what might be next, but you do know it will be fragrant. GEORGE & EDI have 95 stockists throughout New Zealand and can also be found in Australia and Taiwan. For more information or to become a stockist, email marketing@ georgeandedi.com or visit www.georgeandedi.com.
BDÉT Earlier this year, BDÉT launched a range of natural products with a purpose. “We are an innovative personal hygiene company on a mission to create products that are good for the Earth and good for you,” said founder Billie Jo Ropiha. Solving everyday personal hygiene problems, BDÉT’s first and hero product is their Foam Wash which turns ordinary toilet paper into a natural wipe. Enhancing the performance of toilet paper, it replaces the need for wet wipes and is unlike anything on the market. “Toilet paper was invented in the second century in China, there has never been a complimentary product till now,” added Ropiha. “You could say BDÉT is toilet paper’s Soulmate️.” BDÉT range also includes a Room Perfume which is a courtesy spray after using the bathroom. Available in individual bottles or personal hygiene sets which include both the Foam Wash and Room Perfume. There is also 125ml refillable pouches to fill the Foam Wash bottles. Ropiha is excited to launch her next product in the range in 2020, a flushable, ultra-gentle and 100 percent natural baby wipe. “There’s a whole lot more products I’m going to make that the World has never seen, so watch this space!” For more information or to become a stockist email bdet.company@gmail.com or visit www.b-det.com.
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I 21
NICHOLA TE KIRI
KATE NOT SYLVESTER FOR YOU
JOJO ROSS
KATE SYLVESTER
CECELIA CHANG
BUSY GOING CRAZY
HAVILAH
BENJAMIN ALEXANDER
GRADUATE SHOW
BENJAMIN ALEXANDER
NOT FOR YOU
ZAMBESI
KATHRYN WILSON
HAILWOOD
STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB
OLLI
NASH KARAITIANA
ADHALA
NOT FOR YOU
MAGGIE MARILYN
GLEN MACLACHLAN
NICHOLA TE KIRI
MITCHELL MANUEL
PHOTOS BY: IMAGE.NET
accessory alert
Meadowlark Meadowlark’s latest collection Halcyon was inspired by vintage jewellery, and familiar items that have stood the test of time but with the brand’s design flare. Drawing inspiration from their art school illustrations, the also took notes from classical sculpture. Guided by intuition, the brand turns to art and sculpture as a constant fountain of inspiration. “I think we achieved a classic collection that feels familiar as well as brand new, it is a super wearable collection for every day,” explained Meadowlark designer Claire Hammon. “It’s less about occasional pieces, and more about future classics.” This collection stands apart from their most recent ranges like Delphi and Solis which had more of a European romance element to them. Halcyon is quite masculine and rings classic. Reclaimed white diamonds and sapphires were used in the new pieces which are traceable from one to market. The name Halcyon was chosen for its reference to a golden age of prosperity and its positive nature. Meadowlark discontinue styles every six months, but keep their best-selling designs indefinitely. Available in-stores from the beginning of November, Meadowlark are looking for retailers who sell high quality products to last a lifetime. “Because our pieces are made within our own atelier, there is extra attention to detail and want this to be reflected within our stockists.” For more information or to become a stockist, email Corrina at sales@meadowlark.co.nz.
Specsavers The launch of Specsavers Spring/Summer 2019 Sunglasses Collection has something for everyone. “Over the past few years, we’ve seen sunglasses get a complete makeover and this season they’re going from a supporting to a starring role,” said Stig Engelbreth Hansen, global head of product design for Specsavers. “We are seeing customers moving away from more functional styles to more statement-making pieces that express individualism.” This trendy collection is comprised of Specsavers’ own range and designer. “When it comes to choosing sunglasses, my tip is to find the right ones for you and your wardrobe, and then make them work with your individual style. Sunglasses might be a small accessory, but they can have a large impact on your look.” The collection consists of over 100 styles of sunglasses, key trends include XL oversized square frames from Australian designer Carla Zampatti, cat-eye sunglasses with sharp angles inspired by Kylie Minogue, and acetate colours in shades of pink and earth tones. The return of the oversized square frames are a statement piece in the world of modern fashion. Vintage inspired, practical and trendy; this style is are essential for summer as they not only glamorous but also offer extended protection from the sun due to their large nature. This trend has been given a modern update with matte and tortoiseshell acetates. The classic cat-eye sunglasses style has been revamped for summer, with exaggerated wing-shaped frames and cut-out detailing in black and tortoise
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shades. This range by Australian pop-princess Kylie Minogue is elegant, chic and bang on trend. “A cateye pair of sunglasses will always have you looking stylish by the pool or on the beach,” commented Stig. The brown uptrends range includes a variety of options for neutral-hue lovers, shifting from pale sand and putty to a palette of rich, earthy browns made to suit almost everyone with the ability to soften any
look. Specsavers are always growing their collections with new styles to fit current trends. This season they partnered with the Dutch label Viktor & Rolf, the three new styles are part of their new exclusive collection, a manifestation of Viktor & Rolf’s design aesthetics and brand values, unexpected elegance, conceptual glamour and provocative couture.
radar
Child & Baby
Buck and Baa Alexa Whitehead started Buck and Baa in March 2015 while living in Australia. The company’s launch marked the completion of a lifelong dream for Whitehead, who had wanted to start a children’s clothing brand ever since she was in high school. “When I graduated, I studied fashion and design and worked for an advertising agency as a graphic designer,” she told Apparel. “I was able to put these two skills together to form Buck & Baa after my second baby was born.” The company name’s meaning is two-fold. A buck is both a male deer and a male rabbit, which combine to produce the Jackalope, a mythical animal of North
American folklore that inspires Buck and Baa’s logo. The ‘baa’ speaks for itself: “Merino wool was my fibre of choice when I first started the brand,” said Whitehead. Buck and Baa produce wholesome, ethically made, organic clothing and accessories for babies and young children with simple prints and earthy tones. Keeping functionality and eco-friendliness front and centre, each piece is made of natural, chemical-free fibres, and is designed to be practical and comfortable to wear when playing and sleeping. Recently, Whitehead succeeded in eliminating plastic from her business. “I am very passionate about Buck and Baa being a people-friendly and planet-friendly brand. I have a responsibility to make sure we have a positive
impact on our earth.” In line with this, all of Buck and Baa’s clothing is ethically sourced and manufactured, from the very beginning when fibres are sourced right down to the packaging used to send garments to their new homes. Buck and Baa’s steady growth reflects Whitehead’s hands-on approach to developing the company. In an age of mass-produced clothing, she is keen to hold on to the ethos at the core of her brand in order to continue in the right direction. “I like to have a personal approach to my business and customer relationships,” she said. “I would like to keep it at a manageable level so I don’t lose touch with the soul of the brand.” For more information visit www.buckandbaa.com.
Crywolf Crywolf celebrated its first birthday in February 2019, but already the company has gained a reputation as a creator of fun, on-trend, high-quality rainwear for kids. The concept for Crywolf came about when founder Natalie Meldrum was living in Bermuda for the 2017 America’s cup. “I knew there was a gap in the market for trendy rainwear for kids and I was determined to fill it,” she said. “After Bermuda I had a few trips into Asia to find a manufacturing partner who shared my vision and Crywolf was born.” It’s perhaps no surprise that Meldrum has been able to get Crywolf off the ground so quickly – she’s also the founder of children’s footwear brand Pretty Brave, and so has a wealth of experience to draw on when it comes to kid’s fashion. “I design for my own kids and tap into what excites them,” she explained. “I want to give them what they love to wear and what they need to stay warm and dry when playing outside.” As a Kiwi, too, Meldrum is well aware of the necessity of both outdoor play and suitable rainwear. “The outdoors is the greatest playground there is. Coming from the Land of the Long White Cloud, us Kiwis know our rain and as a nation we love the outdoors, so there is an underlying New Zealand inspiration to the brand.” Crywolf’s fun and adventurous aesthetic means kids get the look they desire whilst parents get peace of mind knowing their child is protected in bad weather, with functional features like packable bags, handy pockets, and the use of welded seams to keep the rain out offering maximum utility. “Our best-selling item is the Play Jacket. It’s a high-quality
piece that is fully waterproof, but also lightweight and flexible, so it’s perfect for kids of all ages.” Crywolf also produces a range of rain boots in sizes EU20-33, and rain overalls for under-fives. In colder weather, the innovative Eco-Puffer is filled with 100 percent recycled plastic and comes with its own packable bag. “With Crywolf, young ones can play outside 365 days a year regardless of what the weather is doing.” Looking ahead, Meldrum is hopeful that Crywolf will become one of the key players in the Australian kids outwear market within five years, eventually achieving global distribution. But her business
ambition is tempered by a passion for what she does. “What I love most about my job is that I get to be creative every day,” she said. “With two brands and multiple collections and products, there is always an opportunity to dream up something fun.” Thankfully, Meldrum has a wide support network to help her juggle her many hats. “The greatest challenge is balancing home life with my two kids and husband, Tim. Family support and an amazing team make this possible.” For more information, contact Natalie at hello@crywolfchild.com or visit www.crywolfchild.com
Lewis Lewis was a concept started by friends Liz Libré and Lizzy Ott. Initially, when Libré was pregnant with her first baby, she asked Ott to help set up the nursery. But Ott struggled to find printed sheets that she loved and instead suggested that Libré put her illustrations on fabric. After years of operating after hours, Lewis was officially launched in 2016. Now, Lewis operates out of Brooklyn, with their product being made in India. Named after the founding duos college town of Lewiston, Maine, Lewis chooses print subjects that procure inherent beauty in Libré and Ott’s eyes. “Our prints are the heart and soul of our line. They are all nature-based—what we find people of all ages are drawn to—because we believe prints for kids should also appeal to adults, whether they’re in the nursery or on the body.” Libré and Ott make sure to focus their efforts on products that are useful and will get a lot of use. “Because of that, it’s crucial that they’re well-made and gentle against a baby’s skin. We also care deeply about making these utilitarian items beautiful. Just because it’s a workhorse, doesn’t mean it shouldn’t add an element of joy to your day.” Lewis’ designs draw inspiration from places that other kids do—the weird and wild things in nature. “We’re drawn to the idea that nothing in nature is static—that there is beauty in the rawness. Our loose illustration style is a nod to this idea. And we love mixing out prints with clean lines of a crib or a rug or other prints in the same colour family. Not too much, not too little, a little unexpected and a little fun.” Libré said that the most enjoyable part of the job was the creation aspect. I love thinking of new products that will positively impact new parents’ lives. I love developing new prints in ink and see it come to life on fabric. And of course, hearing from our customers how much they love and use our products means so much.” Ott also finds pleasure in the creative side of things. “I’ve always been happiest in creative roles. I love editing and moulding until a product or a line up looks exactly the way we envision it. We change colours, scales, even prints until that a-ha moment, and then seeing the product in real life is like Christmas morning.” Lewis hopes to see their prints across a range of clothing items and relevant surfaces. “In five years, we want more parents to think of Lewis as a kid’s lifestyle brand. We want to expand our line to include other product categories since we believe our prints can shine on a wide range of surfaces.” But this is not to say that they won’t face challenges, or that they haven’t already overcome challenges. Lewis stated that the biggest challenge
so far has been finding new customers, and being able to keep the name out there and relevant. But, as the duo would go on to describe, it’s worth it when they receive photos of from their customers depicting the kids’ bedrooms, or their new-borns
wrapped up in one of Lewis’ swaddles. Currently, Lewis’ range of stockists can be found at www.lewisishome.com/pages/stores, and if someone is looking to stock, they are directed to hello@lewisishome.com.
How to make a product go viral
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Want to know how you can replicate the success of that Zara dress? Retail analyst, Ashley Graham looks into the four ways in which retailers are pushing product to achieve the highly coveted viral status. From accessibility, wearability to meme fashion we give you the inside scoop on how to make a product go viral.
1. SOCIAL SUCCESS In a social media obsessed generation, any product looking to go viral has to cut through the wave of outfit posts and flat lays. Topshop’s hero piece over the summer months, the Austin dress captured the attention of the press and social media. The dress first landed in a monochrome print in mid-March. Before the end of the month, a second floral option had landed. The second print coincided with an Austin dress focused email, sent on March 27 with a matching Instagram post. Since the dress first arrived it has appeared on both the UK and US homepage, lead two product-focused emails, one blog post and featured in 16 Instagram posts. Messaging surrounding the dress aimed to build hype and created demand. Subject lines like ‘Get it before its gone’ and ‘The dress of the moment’ were common themes. Topshop also expanded its offering and therefore audience with both a mini dress and blouse option, six new prints and special sizes (petite and tall).
2. ACCESSIBILITY A key attribute of a viral product is its ability to appeal and reach a broad consumer base. The sustainable sneaker has been spotted on numerous celebrities, most notably The Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle. The sneaker brand, however, holds mass-appeal. Priced at $150, the model sits at the sweet spot when considering price points of previous viral sneakers. Compared to Balenciaga’s Triple S $975 and Vans Old Skool $65, the shoe offers exclusivity but also affordability. Veja currently offers an extensive range of colorways in the V-10 design, 25 options for women and 14 for men.
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Moreover, the brand has expanded into vegan sneakers, appealing to eco-conscious consumers. Veja is currently stocked by a mixture of high-street retailers such as Office, & Other Stories and Arket alongside luxury retailers Farfetch, Matches, and Neta-Porter. This makes the brand widely available to a range of consumers with varying spending budgets.
3. TRIED & TESTED Recent examples of products going viral have all shared a common theme, tried and tested trends that have been updated to feel fresh for the current season. Possibly summers most buzzed about garment, the polka dot dress warrants mass appeal due to the nature of its design. The midi length is attractive to consumers of all ages, as flattering as it is comfortable. Furthermore, longer lengths feed into the current demand for modest fashion. Zara updated the print for SS19 by removing the dots, and drawing similarities to leopard print – another fail safe
print due to its resurgence in recent seasons. The dress proves that viral does not necessarily have to mean reinventing the wheel. The polka-dot design stood on its own with little to no promotion by the retailer.
4. CAUSE A STIR Although meme culture and irony reigns the internet, many brands are creating products not to reap the profits but the benefits that come with causing a stir on social media. Notably, Balenciaga has become a seasoned pro at creating meme-worthy fashion, from T-Shirt shirts to outerwear boasting extensive layers. Despite the fact that viral fashion can help increase engagement and followers on social media, success is short-lived. With growing concerns about the impact that fashion is having on the environment, creating a product for ‘the hype’ is likely to disengage consumers.
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Maleficent: Mistress of Evil
Maleficent: Mistress of Evil is the epic sequel to Maleficent, staring the talented Angelina Jolie as Maleficent and Ellie Fanning as Queen Aurora. This American dark fantasy film produced by Walt Disney productions showcases the relationship between the evil witch and the soon-to-be queen. Maleficent’s peaceful life takes an unanticipated turn
when Prince Phillip proposes to Aurora, and Prince Phillip’s mother, Queen Ingrith is determined to use this wedding to segregate the human world from the fairies forever. Maleficent and Aurora are at war with one other and must decide if they can become a family while Queen Ingrith attempts to separate them. BAFTA-nominated costume designer, Ellen Mirojnick
designed the costumes to fit a different tone to the first movie, she has deliberately made the character developments visible and made the film appear bolder, more fearless and vibrant. Maleficent’s battle scene portrays that the costume design specifically connects Jolie to herself and the character of Maleficent, through her brave and confident warrior costuming.
Terminator: Dark Fate Linda Hamilton is reprising her role as Sarah Connor for the first time in 28 years in this, the sixth instalment of the Terminator franchise. Arnie is back on board as well to help defend humanity from Skynet, who have sent a modified liquid metal Terminator played by Gabriel Luna back in time to crush the resistance before it happens. So, more of the same.
Kiwi costume designer Ngila Beryl Dickson, who worked on the Lord of the Rings movies, plays heavily with the iconic imagery of the original Terminator franchise. At 72 years old, Arnie still cuts an impressive figure in a leather jacket, whilst Linda Hamilton remains an excellent walking advertisement for aviator sunglasses.
Last Christmas
It’s hard to believe, but Christmas is already slowly but surely creeping up on us. This festive rom-com directed by Emma Thompson stars Emilia Clarke as Kate, an unhappy Londoner who works as an elf in a year-round Christmas shop. When she meets Tom, played by Henry Golding, could all that begin to change? The film borrows heavily from Bridget Jones’ ‘fashionable yet dishevelled’ costume design. Costume
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designer Renee Ehrlich Kalfus evidently had a lot of fun cladding Khaleesi herself in a literal Santa’s elf outfit, complete with a fetching green Santa’s hat. Set against the backdrop of London in Christmas, this is classic festive cheese, though the internet has come up with a convincing theory that Last Christmas features a giant plot twist – stay tuned.
Zombieland: Double Tap Zombie slayers Columbus, Tallahasee, Wichita, and Little Rock are back in this sequel to the cult classic Zombieland. It’s been a long ten years since the original Zombieland, and both the characters and the actors who play them have come a long way. The makeshift family have moved to the American heartland, where they encounter evolved zombies
and fellow survivors, and have to figure out how to get along with each other now that the world has ended. The ‘urban cowboy’ aesthetic is carried over from the first film, with costume designer Christine Wada styled the star-studded cast in leather jackets and denim. The best news? Woody Harrelson’s Stetson makes a return.
Gemini Man Will Smith plays Henry Brogan, an aging government assassin who finds himself pursued by a remorseless younger agent played by Will Smith. This mind-bending action flick directed by Ang Lee uses state of the art technology to seamlessly de-age the 50-year-old actor and allow him to play both parts. The film has been in production limbo for 20 years, mostly
because the technology simply didn’t exist to make it until recently. Costume designer Suttrirat Anne Larlarb is best known for her work on Slumdog Millionaire and 127 Hours, this is her 17th major film to design for. A lot of the costuming is dark hued, military-esque and fully covering. This pulled focus to the action and cinematography.
Joker Joaquin Phoenix is hitting the big screen with his character study of the Joker. The standalone film is set in the 1980s when the Joker has a stab at stand up comedy before turning to a life of crime. Phoenix’s very human take on the character looks to bring a whole new side to Gotham City’s biggest bad guy. Costume designer Mark Bridges did a fantastic job at breathing new life into the iconic look of the Joker. The very experienced Bridges is known best for his stunning tailoring and dresses seen in the 2017 film Phantom Thread. At first, Phoenix’s Joker is seen in slightly
oversized, second-hand-esque suiting with large late 70s collars. As his journey continues, we see the Joker establish a new iconic suit in a daring bright red paired with orange vest and a green shirt. All of which scream late 70s, bold, loud, muted prints on vibrantly coloured fabrics. The style of clown make up is very different to what we are used to seeing – circa Jared Leto and Heath Ledger. The effective shortened, high angled red brows and dripping blue triangles under the eyes are a call back to his plastic children’s mask seen earlier in the movie. The dramatic side step in makeup pulls this Joker away from any we may have known before.
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