Apparel Magazine // October 2014

Page 1

$ 9.00

OCTOBER 2014 VOL 47 NO 9

www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

THE THIRD WARDROBE

pg 25

14 16 22 27

04

NEWS

APPAREL RADAR

COLOUR TRENDING

COLLECTION REVIEW BRAND PROFILE

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I1


FASHIONABLE

EDITOR’S letter SINCE the year dot, retailing has been about destinations, whether an independent store, department store or a website, retail is all about going somewhere to get something. Over the years, each store opening and store location has delivered a new level of convenience. Independents opened within walking distance of one another, department stores house multiple brands under one roof and now the internet has been the biggest category killer. Despite these innovations improving the convenience of shopping, the concept of destination shopping remains. Consumers are still required to make a trip to obtain goods. But has destination shopping gone too far, with stores opening in the back of popular suburbs and what seems like the middle of nowhere? Has the convenience of getting the brands you want become less accessible? Instead of walking aimlessly through shopping malls, have we reached a time where consumers will seek opportunities to make purchases and will not think in terms of destination as much as in terms of opportunities to buy whenever those opportunities present themselves? The rules about where consumers can locate the goods that they need will be put to the test as ‘anything/anywhere’ shopping becomes the expectation and ultimately the norm.

This issue we have great articles from our contributors and lots of industry news to keep you up to date. The team at Apparel are also working hard on the 2015 Industry Directory. This is a must have publication acting as the the ultimate industry address book. For your free listing head to our website www. apparelmagazine.co.nz or call 09 3040142. Have a great month!

Sarah

READS

sarah@reviewmags.com

ON THE COVER: WORLD Palm D’or Blazer in Yellow ZAMBESI Long Classic shirt in Whitewash BARKERS Parisian for Barker’s Tie in Navy WORLD Palm D’or Trouser in Aubergine BARKERS Rangatira Suede Boot in Grey

Hijacking the Runway: How Celebrities Are Stealing the Spotlight from Fashion Designers

by Teri Agins How has celebrity inundated the world of fashion? Teri Agins chronicles the Hollywood escapades that have furthered fashion’s ability to seduce the masses and follows Hollywood’s desire to make their own fashion with wit and insider insight.

contributors

W: Stories JESSICA-BELLE GREER

CAITLAN MITCHELL

THOMAS FOWLER

KATIE SMITH

ANYA ANDERSON

CHRIS WILKINSON

CORINNE COLE

ZOE RIPLEY

Sales & Editorial

Managing Director RedSeed Ltd Christchurch www.redseed.me

PUBLISHER EDITOR SALES & MARKETING SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DESIGNER PHOTOGRAPHER

Editorial Assistant

Photograher

Partner at AJ Park corinne.blumsky@ ajpark.com

Managing Director of Strategists, First Retail Group www.firstretailgroup.com

Trend Analyst, EDITD www.editd.com/blog

APAC and EMEA Marketing Director, ChannelAdvisor

CIRCULATION/ADMIN INTERN

Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com

Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com

ISSN 1171-2287

Jessica-Belle Greer - jessica@reviewmags.com

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794

Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com

Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com

2 I October 2014

by Stefano Tonchi Ten of the most exceptional stories from W magazine are published in their entirety, with never-before-seen outtakes. These stories are like W itself, renowned for avant-garde fashion story telling that walks the line of provocative and beguiling.

Apela Bell

NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2014 NZ Apparel Magazine.

Conversations: Up Close and Personal with Icons of Fashion, Interior Design, and Art

by Blue Carreon Author Blue Carreon of the Huffington Post’s Conversation column selects sixty interviews with style icons, fashion designers and artists. Be enchanted by how answers to Carreon’s questions move from clever to funny to philosophical.


Your businesses are as varied as our students . . .

. . . let us help you make the best match through work experience and employment options.

CALL Jacqui 09 309 5020 or visit www.nzfashiontech.ac.nz

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I3


NEWS BROTHER DESIGN STAR AWARDS

ZOE BECK AND MODEL

EZIBUY TEAMS UP FOR A CURE

New Zealand fashion retailer EziBuy have teamed up with Breast Cancer Cure to help raise funds for future research efforts. Collaborating with the likes of Trelise Cooper, Andrea Moore and Moochi, every nightie sold will donate $15 to the charity. “Our purpose is to create a bright future for any New Zealand woman diagnosed with this frightening disease, and to protect our next generation of young girls from what their mothers and grandmothers are going through today,” said Phillipa Green from Breast Cancer Cure. “We’re thrilled that EziBuy and these high profile designers are helping us in our quest. The nighties are gorgeous, and they’ll really help you rest easy knowing that buying them, you’re helping an amazing cause.”

Two fashion and design students took out top honours in this year’s Brother Design Stars competition. Fourteen year-old Zoe Beck, of Te Puna, Tauranga, won the Brother Design Stars Fashion Award with her unique up-cycled outfit made from op shop treasures, while 16 year-old Lydia Gilmour, of Welcome Bay, Tauranga, took out the Brother Design Stars Craft Award with an Anna-Stretton-inspired hot water bottle cover made from men’s ties. Open to those in school years 7-13, Brother Design Stars invited talented young designers and creative’s to submit a hot water bottle cover or fashion design garment in categories defined by an overall theme of ‘Use Old, Create New’. Beck’s winning fashion garment, ‘Crossed Paths’ was created from a range of up-cycled materials and followed the idea of East meets Western culture. Zoe used four individual pieces of recycled clothing, all different fabrics, which she re-styled and combined to create her winning outfit. “When I found out I had won the Brother Design Stars Fashion category I was so excited,” Zoe said. “Sewing is a passion of mine and I am excited to show New Zealand my talent and my fashion style which I think is very unique and different.” Lydia Gilmour’s entry in the Craft category was a beautifully constructed hot water bottle cover made entirely from men’s ties. “I have always found textiles and craft really interesting, especially the concept of using old materials found in op shops,” said Gilmour. With both category winners attending Tauranga Girls High School, the school has won five Brother NS10 and JS1410 sewing machines, as well as four ScanNCut machines.

WELLINGTON DISPLAYS WOW JUDGES

Judges of the WOW Window Dressing Competition have selected Featherston Street fashion retailer deNada as the winner of a prize package worth over $7000 from over 60 participating Wellington stores. The official panel for the Judge’s Choice Award consisted of Sue Prescott, a previous WOW entrant and judge, and Nicolle Aston, who has over 20 years experience as a visual merchandiser. Windows were assessed on the creative use of the colour red, resourcefulness, effort and WOW factor. “The overall calibre of the windows in this year’s competition was amazing, and all reflected huge amounts of time, passion and support for WOW from the staff. The detail and narrative within each retail outlet display demonstrated innovative thinking in composition, use of colour, interactivity,” said Prescott. deNada’s design included body casts of actual customers, and elements that appear to magically pass through the store window. Store manager Hilly Lutte said the competition was a chance to push the team’s creative boundaries.

AA SMARTFUEL ADDS 200 ONLINE STORES

New Zealand fuel discount loyalty programme, AA Smartfuel has announced further expansion with more than 200 online international retailers joining the programme, enabling even greater fuel savings for its 1.7 million cardholders. Well-known brands including ASOS, Top Man, Just Jeans, Strawberry Net, iTunes, Bonds, Marks & Spencer, Smiggle and LEGO are joining a raft of international retailers offering Kiwi consumers more places to save on fuel. The ability to offer increased options is exciting for customers, said general manager Ian Sutcliffe. “We’re committed to delivering real benefits to Kiwi consumers, and this latest move means more places for our cardholders to make fuel savings,” said Sutcliffe. “With one in two New Zealand shoppers aged over 20 years being part of the AA Smartfuel programme, we’re keen to continue to deliver a compelling and meaningful rewards offering that empowers consumers.” The addition of international retailers such as Peter Alexander, Interflora, Boohoo.com, Jay Jays and SuperDry means AA Smartfuel cardholders who purchase from these brands online will earn a fuel savings of five cents per litre when they spend $50 or more.

4 I October 2014 AP 1014 pgs.indd 4

21/10/14 4:18 pm

SOU


Fashion. Textiles. Connecting buyers with international suppliers

18 – 20 November 2014 Melbourne Exhibition Centre Register for free sourcingfair.com.au

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I5


NEWS TRELISE COOPER LAUNCHES MOBILE SITE Launched in late September, the new Trelise online site for mobiles offers customers the opportunity to shop anywhere – anytime. “The mobile site mirrors the experience of shopping on the desktop site, but it is tailored to a smaller screen,” said Felicity Christmas, brand liaison for Trelise Cooper. “It displays the beautiful campaign images crisply and clearly, ensuring that the intricate details of each garment can be seen. The navigation bar, zoom and search features have also been enhanced for mobile screens to make shopping on the go as easy and enjoyable as possible.” The first online venture launched in November 2011. Cooper understands that visiting a physical store has become a luxury that many struggle to find time for and the online store takes the experience of her bespoke boutiques into the

digital world, complete with elegant packaging, surprise gifts and exceptional customer service. Since the launch, mobile and tablet traffic has risen 89 per cent and wholesale accounts have also increased. Trelise Cooper brand has a following of women of all ages and each label within the brand is designed for a slightly different customer. Along with the brands’ loyal fan base, 40 per cent of online traffic comes from new customers, which can be attributed to its carefully curated social media presence. Since Trelise Cooper Online was launched they have seen a 700 per cent increase in Facebook fans. With Trelise Cooper garments having an enduring appeal, the ‘Outlet’ section of the site has continued to rise in popularity and is a great way to give customers favourite pieces from past seasons.

DESIGNERS AND SEALY BEDS FOR CHARITY

DESIGNERS INVITED TO JOIN ID 2015

Fashion designers are being called to take part in iD Dunedin Fashion Week that will celebrate its 16th year in April 2015. iD Dunedin Fashion Week is New Zealand’s longest standing retail fashion show and is the culmination of a week of sensational events, including talks by prestigious overseas guests, international collaborations, catwalk shows, retail events, and New Zealand’s top fashion awards the iD International Emerging Designer Awards. High profile and emerging Kiwi designers are being asked to submit portfolios for the hugely popular public fashion event. Fashion designers interested in participating must be commercially producing directional adult fashion. Links to Dunedin, such as retailing in the city, or having lived or studied in Dunedin are not compulsory but will be taken into account. Selections are made by industry professionals based on the designer portfolios submitted. Applications are also open for the Emerging Designer Awards, which provides an international platform for rising local and international fashion design talent to showcase their innovative collections and gain further professional catwalk experience and networking opportunities. For more information visit www.idfashion.co.nz.

For the second consecutive year, Sealy is supporting the New Zealand Breast Cancer Foundation with help from four leading creative local talents. Expert eyes in various design industries including artist Elliot O’Donnell (ASKEW ONE), fashion designers Denise L’Estrange Corbet from WORLD, Juliette Hogan and interior designer LeeAnn Yare have master the art of sleep with a range of bespoke fabric panels for a Sealy Posturepedic Exquisite bed. Each fabric panel is very different with designs ranging from bright polka dots and monochrome to pastel chevrons and fine art geometric prints. Celebrated for her mix of contemporary fashion with timeless femininity, Juliette Hogan has mixed animal print with her love for monochrome. The result is a bed that delivers a luxe revival of the print inspired by her upcoming winter ’15 collection. “We all know someone affected by breast cancer in some way, so I feel passionate about giving back to the community and creating more awareness for so many women and their families throughout New Zealand,” said Hogan. Taking inspiration from her tenure at WORLD, L’Estrange Corbet brings a playful and fearless attitude to her creations. Using bright and bold fabrics helped achieve a bed that was fun and beautifully eclectic that perfectly references her identity as a designer.

TRIUMPH LAUNCH MAGIC WIRE BRA Global intimate apparel company Triumph is excited to be first-to-market with an innovative technology support system – Magic Wire. Featuring all the comfort and support of an underwire without a metal wire, Triumph’s Magic Wire is set to revolutionise bras. Triumph has listened to their customers and the most common complaint about bras is the underwire that can cause discomfort and redness by digging into the skin, leading to constant readjustment. Women have lived with this because the underwire is essential in supporting a nature shape, however – this is no longer the case. “As a brand we are very fortunate to have a global network of research and development that can speak with women around the world, identify those core insights and develop such an innovative product as Magic Wire. We truly believe this will revolutionise the way women wear their bras and is a perfect complement to our range,” says head of brand, Nicola Hodgson. Triumph’s innovative solution continues to deliver female confidence and ensuring women feel comfortable and confident in whatever they wear. The Magic Wire is silicone, ensuring a firm yet gentle support. It is fully enclosed inside the bra pad so wearer’s will only feel soft fabric against the skin and a built in mesh stabilizer offers additional support that moves with the body like a second skin, offering a new level of comfort and fit.

dsl logistics we deliver dsl.co.nz • • • •

Innovative 3rd party logistics solutions Full garment processing facilities Customs clearance Freight forwarding

Contact us now to discuss your needs. Phone: +64 9 255 2560 I Mobile: 021 769 560 Email: john@dsl.co.nz I www.dsl.co.nz

6 I October 2014


NEWS AUT EMOTION SENSING

Director of Business Relations at AUT Business School, Sarah Trotman likes to make a statement. When she wanted something special to wear for this year’s Westpac ‘Women of Influence’ awards, Trotman challenged AUT Colab to create something that stole the show. The result was a garment that connected to her nervous system using Galvanic Skin Response Technology and changes colour depending on her stress levels. Colours vary from a bright blue to mauve when it picks up on nervousness or embarrassment. The garment was created by PhD students, Donna Cleveland and Amit Gupta and was overseen by creative technologist Kim Newall. The garment is made from merino wool and knitted at the AUT Textile Design Lab, and apart from a few electrodes and battery packs to drive the garment; it is all natural and recyclable. “The garment itself was gorgeous to wear – except for the battery packs,” laughed Trotman. “I must admit some of the colour changes and the reactions of fellow guests did make me feel somewhat self-conscious.” The garment may be a party trick now but it could mean bigger things in the future. “Imagine a garment that can display the health issues of a disabled person, warn a worker of extreme fatigue, or a sportsman of heart or brain injury,” said Cleveland. “This technology will become commonplace in future, but it may surprise us all to the actual uses.” The garment is now being displayed at international conference on wearable technology, ArchInTex in Eindhoven, The Netherlands.

PROFIT FALL FOR KATHMANDU

In an effort to grow sales after a weaker Australian dollar proved to be costly to the company’s full year profit, adventure-clothing retailer Kathmandu is looking to expand its international operations. Making a net profit of $42.15 million for the year to July 31, shoed 4.6 per cent loss from a year ago. New Zealand sales were up 2.9 per cent, but down 0.1 per cent on a same store basis. The sales growth was offset by a weaker Australian dollar, which wiped NZ$5.8 million from earnings. Chairman, David Kirk, said the company was focused on growing its fledging UK business and also was targeting customers in Europe.

NZ FASHION TECH WINS TOP AWARD

New Zealand Fashion Tech has been awarded the Entrepreneurship in Education award for their unique collaborations with leading brands of toilet paper, pain and print technology. The collaborations have given students valuable industry experience and exposure. Behind these collaborations are Kevin Smith and Val MarshallSmith, managing director and academic director respectively of jointly owned tertiary fashion institute NZ Fashion Tech. The pair won the inaugural ITENZ/ Excel Corporation Entrepreneurship in Education award at the private tertiary education providers’ 2014 awards that were held in Wellington last month. “It was a thrill to win the award. It’s validation of everything we’ve done in the past 20 years,” said Val. “Our philosophy at NZ Fashion Tech has always been to put real-life situations into our students learning. These link-ups with some of New Zealand’s favourite brands put their learning into context, while also giving them exciting, sometimes life-changing experiences.” Applied fashion design and technology programmes delivered by NZ Fashion Tech in Auckland and Wellington, are not new to industry awards, winning various independently judged awards in New Zealand’s tertiary education sector three years in a row. Their business model is believed to be unique within the sector. While other providers deliver fashion programmes within other degrees, NZ Fashion Tech offers fashion programmes exclusively with emphasis on preparing graduates for careers in a design-led fashion industry. “It’s a huge honour to be recognised among our peers. As the fashion industry expands its export horizons and moves some production off-shore, the demand locally for broadly based, highly tuned skills to create world-beating collections increases,” said Val.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

AP 1014 pgs.indd 7

I7 21/10/14 4:18 pm


NEWS NEWMARKET YOUNG DESIGNER AWARDS

This year’s Newmarket Young Fashion Designer Awards show saw two young designers achieve supreme awards with opportunities to kick-start their careers in fashion. Supreme winner in the senior category with her black and gold evening gown, inspired by iconic 1920s designer Schiaparelli, was 19 year-old Jessica Jay from Wanaka. Ecstatic with the win, the retail assistant can’t wait to attend Whitecliffe College of Arts and Design with a two-year scholarship. “It is an amazing opportunity to attend Whitecliffe. I can’t wait to be in such a creative environment to challenge myself and improve my skill set as a designer,” said Jay. As part of the senior prize, Jessica also received a two-week internship with New Zealand’s Taylor Boutique and a trip to Australian Fashion Week with M.A.C. In the junior category, Chilton Saint James student Lily Custance was announced as the Supreme Junior winner with her design that included a sheer dress and leather jacket inspired by Givenchy. The 17 year-old was awarded the top junior prize thanks to her well-considered creative journal and a beautiful final execution that balanced out two very challenging fabrics.

peteralex

HUG!

ander

PETER ALEXANDER VISITS NZ

Sleepwear king Peter Alexander brings the latest heart-warming collection of Mr Men and Hello Kitty in-store and online this month. The collection features Hello Kitty slippers, I Am the Tickle Master baby bib, Little Miss Sunshine and Little Miss Naughty pj sets for the girls and Mr Cool and Mr Perfect tees for the boys. The bright and colourful additions celebrate Peter Alexander’s latest charity collaboration, a limited edition Mr Men Book – The Little Miss Hug and Penny the Dog. Available from all stores and online, 100 per cent of the proceeds go to renowned animal charity Paw Justice.

STRIPES FOR RONALD MCDONALD CHARITY

McHappy Day is the largest annual fundraiser for Ronald McDonald House Charity (RMHC), held earlier this month. The team at McDonalds New Zealand and RMHC launched an Instagram campaign in the lead up to this day, asking New Zealanders to take a “socksie” (sock selfie) with a pair of their white and red striped Ronald socks with the hashtags #forRMHC and #McHappyDay2014. Ronald socks are sold for $5 along with McHappy Helping Hands for $1. One hundred per cent of the proceeds go to RMHC to keep New Zealand families with seriously ill children together. RMHC urges everyone to wear the socks and display their helping hands, as well as going to their local McDonald’s on McHappy day for fun activities.

NEW JUDGE FOR DHL EXPRESS FASHION EXPORT SCHOLARSHIP PANEL

For the first time in the competition, a previous winner of the DHL Express Fashion Export Scholarship will join the judging panel. New judge Dan Gosling won the award in 2008 with Stolen Girlfriends Club. As co-owner and director of Stolen Girlfriends Club, Gosling will sit alongside MAX Fashions CEO John Kelly, chairman at FINZ Paul Blomfield and DHL national strategic account manager for fashion and textiles, Megan Wildermouth. DHL Express NZ Country Manager Tim Baxter welcomes Gosling to the panel. “It’s so exciting to see our 2008 winner making such an impact on the international fashion scene, and we think it’s fitting to welcome Dan back as a judge this year.” Stolen Girlfriends Club is stocked in over 13 countries worldwide and is one of New Zealand’s most successful fashion exporters.

WORKSHOP FOR ART WEEK

In conjunction with Art Week 2014, long time Workshop friend and collaborator John Reynolds have created a spectacular new installation in Workshop’s Vulcan Lane window in Auckland. The installation featured a window drawing titled ‘High Street Cave Painting’ along with an array of works from Reynolds ‘Acronym’ series, the installation also showcased four limited edition t-shirts including new prints ‘Camo Gold’ and ‘Iconic Badass Luxury’ as well as a reissue of favourites ‘Miss-Be-Having’ and ‘Crazy White Folk’.

theWINDOW

BONADRAG.COM:

Hit: Clean, houses a massive selection of designers, has a unique variety of styles. Miss: Website is too static and lacks animation or interesting elements, website design is dated and isn’t incorporating modern elements.

8 I October 2014

MY-WARDROBE.COM:

Hit: Customer interaction and feedback is easily accessable, uses a wishlist system to save items. Miss: Charge for delivery, no NZD options, slim selection of designers

SPIRITUALAMERI.CA:

Hit: Multiple currencies, dedicated sale area, in house trend reporting and blog Miss: Lack of clothing information on front page, hard to navigate (having to go through multiple pages to get to product)


NEWS

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I9


NEWS JEWELLERY TRADE SHOW IN AUCKLAND

The Jewellers and Watchmakers Assn NZ (JWNZ) held its 20th annual jewellery, watch, gem, findings, and packaging trade show at the Ellerslie Event Centre in October. The fair featured New Zealand and Australian manufacturers, and wholesalers who exhibited over two days and attracted visitors from all over the country.

DHL EXPRESS REPORTS SOCIAL MEDIA CRUCIAL FOR NZ EXPORTERS

GOODNESS OPENS IN AUCKLAND

Wellington’s most fashionable boutique, Goodness has opened a new store in Jervois Road, Herne Bay. Owned by Chris Hales, Goodness has built an enviable reputation for stocking a selection of New Zealand’s leading labels and imports, alongside her own signature label, Goodness. The Goodness Auckland opening also brings a well-known fashionista to the fore, with the Ange Tinker partnering with Hales in the Auckland operation. Labels stocked in store include Kowtow, Loobies Story, Noa Noa, Nineteen//46, Deborah Sweeney, Julian Danger, Maison Scotch and Sabatini. Footwear stocked includes No Brand Shoes and D.A.T.E Originals.

EYEWEAR FOR I LOVE UGLY

Always looking to expand, menswear lifestyle brand I Love Ugly have added eyewear to its offering with each style complementing the brand’s current collection. Featuring quality materials and custom designs, I Love Ugly believe that the glasses stay true to the brand’s attention to detail put into every product. The collection features three different styles, the Obi, Alistair and Oliver.

KLUM FOR BENDON

Heidi Klum will be creative director and ad campaign model for Bendon’s newest celebrity licensed line, Heidi Klum Intimates. Elle Macpherson, the original model who launched a collection with Bendon, will continue her Elle McPherson Intimates line with new partners. “Frankly, we don’t need anyone else. With Heidi, as with Stella McCartney, she’s not just an icon and global brand, but a business partner who can work with us to create value for consumers and stakeholders and the supply chain,” says Justin DavisRice, chief executive officer of Bendon. Heidi Klum Intimates will launch worldwide in January 2015.

theNUMBERS . . . ONLINE SHOPPING:

In the last year, 40% of New Zealanders who made a purchase online bought apparel.

10 I October 2014

Apparel (clothing, shoes or accessories) is the 2nd most popular online retail category (second only to airline tickets).

Data revealed by DHL Express shows that social media is fast becoming a prime tool in driving sales orders for New Zealand exporters. “Social media is becoming an increasingly crucial communications tool for New Zealand exporters, and these findings indicate that exporters are using this channel in creative and innovative ways,” said DHL Express NZ Country Manager Tim Baxter. The findings detail 43% of New Zealand exporters surveyed stated that they had generated orders through social media with 29% of these generating orders via Facebook. “The online channel continues to be a good vehicle for increasing presence in international markets and this is supported by burgeoning social media activity,” reported Baxter. “New Zealanders are well known for being early adopters, and these findings only reinforce that exporters are highly adaptable... We are seeing this particularly in younger startup companies with small businesses using social media most effectively.” 51% of exporters surveyed stated that they are confident they can improve their export business through the use of social media although there is still room for improvement. “Many exporters still do not provide pricing and shipping information, or online booking and payment functionality. We think exporters have a great opportunity to enhance the user experience in this area, potentially growing enquiries, and ultimately sales, even further,” concluded Baxter.

SOURCE: Nielsen CMI YE Q2 2012 & 2014

The number of online shoppers who purchase apparel has increased by 18% the last two years.


NEWS PONSONBY’S NEW RETAIL PRECINCT

The new shopping precinct in Ponsonby, LOT3, has been designed to create an inspiring environment with communities and culture. The plot owned by the Valabh Family Trust has been transformed into ten retail stores with various offices upstairs and a café down the side. For the stores, a new address offers an opportunity for a new fit out. M·A·C is opening their eleventh store at Lot3 with the latest New York designed fit-out. Neighbour Icebreaker will have a format similar to its US and Canada stores. “The new format is a much richer consumer experience so we are excited to bring it to Auckland,” said Jeremy Moon, founder and creative cirector of Icebreaker. Storm is introducing the first of a new concept store at Lot3. “It is still on brand but moved on, just like fashion does,” said owner Deborah Caldwell of the new store. For some stores Lot3 is a chance to pick up new ranges. State of Grace has picked up Kate of Arcadia bags, Jasmine Sparrow jewellery and selection art and fashion books to sit alongside already existing accessories. Tenants of the new precinct see the cluster of shops as a gem for Ponsonby. Along with the openings, Ponsonby retailer, Union has moved up the road from the Three Lamps. “It is a more exciting position, being part of the vibe of a new fashion centre,” Union owner Wendy Nelson said. And Mi Piaci reported that Ponsonby Road has become one of Auckland’s premium fashion and lifestyle destinations with influential brands and a great community atmosphere. Blakchaos, Needles and Threads, Knowear, and Lonely Hearts are due to open at LOT3 later in the month.

Blak of Blakchaos

NATALIE CHAN LAUNCHES MILLINERY

Designer Natalie Chan has launched her couture millinery collection for the 2014-2015 season. Inspired by Parisian ladies of yesteryear, the collection ‘Postcards from Paris’ is for the ladies that lunch and who are forever immortalised by photography on vintage themed postcards. In her newest design, Chan continued her fascination of old world meets modern day. Hats were oversized with large wide brims in typical millinery materials sinamay and capelin, with the introduction of the standout piece ‘d’Orsay’ constructed entirely in cane lattice and juxtaposed with a soft organza bow. This theme of juxtaposition, of hard versus soft was carried through as seen in severe shapes paired with delicate adornments, sculpted and teardrop forms played base to detailing such as veils, scrolls, and petite blossoms. Using the highest level of millinery skills, ‘Postcards from Paris’ features exclusive hand crafted millinery designs for the races, and special occasions. The full range is now available for viewing online and at the boutique.

Passion for

Fashion? KICK START YOUR CAREER WITH Industrial Sewing Pattern Making Fashion Design

Call 0508 327 872 Miss World (NZ) wearing the National Costume designed by sewtec student Amy Lautogo

www.dastraining.co.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

AP 1014 pgs.indd 11

I 11 21/10/14 4:18 pm


NEWS

Cooper Watkinson Textiles 2014 Ltd In April 2014 Fashion Biz purchased the assets of Cooper Watkinson Textiles Ltd creating a new company Cooper Watkinson Textiles 2014 Ltd. LEANING on the advanced technologies available from Fashion Biz, CWT 2014 Ltd now has access to a full local testing lab in addition to its QC at fabric source, providing customers with additional peace of mind around quality control, as well as a state-ofthe-art warehousing facility in Wiri, Auckland with an automated warehouse management system and integrated logistics system. With the new vision injected through the Fashion Biz acquisition, this textile designer, creator, distributor and wholesaler is readying itself to soar to new heights, with a renewed focus on top quality, early delivery,

opportunities for new clients and improved service. CWT 2014 Ltd offers an extensive range of high end predominantly women’s wear fashion fabrics to clients internationally through two main seasonal collections per year. With designers sourcing and developing product globally, CWT can also offer an experienced development service encompassing prints, jacquards, knits, wovens, fancies, laces, embroideries, etc. Director Rajiv Kumar believes that the new energy injected into CWT will improve and streamline its working relationships with the world’s leading mills and top women’s wear designers around the globe.

The new range for Summer 2015/2016 is out now. For more information contact our sales team on mary@ cwt.co.nz and lucy2@cwt.co.nz

#UGLYSHOES

Chalkboard Agencies are excited to announce that they have secured the distribution of major Australian label Bariano and their sister label Lumier. Bariano have been flourishing worldwide as they create captivating evening gowns and bridesmaid dresses that are designed to be comfortable yet glamorous and on trend. Lumier offers sophisticated everyday garments with the edge and elegant feel as the Bariano label. Bariano have set up PR teams across America which has resulted in celebrities frequently wearing their garments on the red carpet and on television. Giuliana Rancic is said to be a big fan of the sister label Lumier and she is seen on E! News wearing Lumier often.

I

09 589 1926 sales@chalkboardagencies.com www.chalkboardagencies.com

12 I October 2014


BEAUTYedit Get Amped!

Schwarzkopf have added two new options to its line up with the introduction of Professional OSIS+ Wax Dust and OSIS+ Volume Up. Both products are used to create texture and volume without the weight of regular volume enhancers. The wax dust is a lightweight, texturizing powder that changes to a creamy formula when warmed and sets dry for an easy to manage look. Volume Up is a natural look volume spray that boasts huge lift at the roots and throughout the lengths with a single application. Whilst creating volume and support, Volume Up doesn’t compromise natural movement, allowing for full natural hair that can be reworked throughout the day.

Boost Your Day

Give life to your face with the new range from Neutrogena. The Hydro Boost range includes a water gel, SPF15 gel, eye roll-on and night concentrate. The selection is essential to the upkeep of a refreshed face and incorporates world class technology doubles skin’s moisture using the water gel product and promises to increase skin moisture by up to 400% around eyes with its roll-on product, both in just one hour.

Stay Safe With Ultra Sheer

With one of the highest rates of skin cancer in the world, sunblock is a must have during the Kiwi summer. Luckily Neutrogena have added to its Ultra Sheer range with Ultra Sheer Face and Clear Face sunscreens. Clearface is designed for customers prone to breakouts; ensuring sun protection isn’t counterintuitive to a beauty regime. By reducing oils to maintain blemish-free skin ensures sun protection remains a top priority in consumers’ daily routines. Face is designed for the customer who doesn’t want to compromise their look. The formula is a non-greasy matte finish that is light on the face and battles premature aging from harsh sun damage. Both products ensure consumers look their best whilst working to protect them from the sun this summer.

Murad

Murad introduced its first Essential-C Sun Balm Broad Spectrum SPF 35 compact as part of its Environmental Shield line. The product creates a protective barrier of free radical neautralisers, renewing and protecting damaged and ageing skin. Whether touching up on the ski lift, replenishing after

Bee Dee Bags are the experts in retail packaging, supplying high quality custom made products including paper bags, plastic bags, reusable fabric bags, boxes, postal satchels and tissue paper. Bee Dee Bags clientele range from the single store to some of the countries largest chain stores. Become a part of the Bee Dee Bags PO Box 302-493 North Harbour, Auckland 0751

Phone: 0800 232 710 Fax: 0800 232 310 www.beedeebags.co.nz

a quick dip or shielding shoulders at an outdoor lunch it is ideal to keep on hand.

Evolu

Skin in need of rescuing? Evolu have developed one of their cult classic moisture products, the Rehydration Rescue Masque. The product really lives up to its name as it restores balance back to dry, inflamed or flaky skin. The natural plant extracts used in the cream helps to alleviate long-term conditions by reducing rosacea and even relieving psoriasis and eczema. The Rehydration Rescue Masque is designed to be used as an overnight leave-on-masque and can also be used for a quick rejuvenation.

Label.M

Label.M’s latest products, Texturising Volume Spray and Thickening Cream, will see even the finest of freshly washed manes transformed into towering beehive’s á la Brigitte Bardot. The Texturising Volume Spray combines the texturising benefits of a dry shampoo with the hold of a hairspray that is perfect for the blend of height, grip and drama. The Thickening Cream expands each strand to a new dimension for a thicker and fuller head of hair without ever weighing it down. With its innovative Enviroshield Complex it protects hair against heat styling and UV rays, boosting shine to enter the world of big hair.

network and experience our high level service, quality product and economical prices. An extensive range of affordable ready made products are also available to order now via our website www.beedeebags.co.nz

BEE DEE BAGS N E W

Z E A L A N D

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 13


BEHIND THE BUSINESS

View these brands and more on ApparelBuyersLounge.com

MONEY UNDERWEAR CLUB

Money Underwear Club (MUC) is the home of the popular women’s underwear, Lucky Undies. For owner and designer Tessa Bailey-Lont, MUC offers New Zealand women another option when shopping for underwear. Inspired by Brazilian and European underwear shapes and aesthetics, Lucky Undies are smaller than usual briefs but more flattering than G-strings. MUC’s Lucky Undies, and other luxury underwear, is about looking good but also feeling great. This style is a fusion of Bailey-Lont’s own travels and a love of New Zealand. MUC is proudly made in New Zealand, an aspect MUC hopes to maintain when they look to sell their underwear in the China luxury market. Bailey-Lont graduated in industrial design at Massey University and when looking for a more feminine application for industrial design in New Zealand she turned to the NZ Academy of Fashion, where she learnt pattern making. Bailey-Lont began making clothes for her friends before she saw a gap in the underwear market for flattering and comfortable underwear like Lucky Undies. For wholesale enquiries, contact Tessa at moneyunderwearclub@gmail.com.

FLASH JEWELLERY

Flash Jewellery is named after designer Nina Gordon’s nickname, Flash Gordon. It is with this sense of the bold and the colourful that Gordon evolves her designs. Her ideal jewellery is heavy - think thick gold chains of a vintage Chanel necklace and you have unleashed Gordon’s 80s child inspiration. Gold features in all collections of Flash Jewellery and is ultimately what inspires each collection. Gordon began crafting metal when she was young with her Dad in his car-parts garage. Following her passion of working with the medium, Gordon studied silversmithing and eventually worked for a metal design firm making army apparel. This lead to the birth of Flash Jewellery in 2012. Flash Jewellery has received attention from both local and international media. The brand was an exhibitor at NZ Fashion Week 2014 and was part of the Surface Too Deep show at NZ Fashion Week 2013. The brand is currently stocked in some premium boutiques around the country including all RUBY stores and Gordon is excited to see Flash Jewellery grow this year. The new Rush Stacker Range drops in November as a pre-Christmas injection and complements the mainline collection ‘RUSH’. For wholesale enquiries contact Nina, info@ flashculture.co.nz

DON’T TELL NEW YORK

Don’t Tell New York is a New Zealand-based leather accessories brand. Cofounders Hamish Davies and Matthew Procter have kept everything reasonably low-key while they focus on completing their university degrees. Davies and Procter both grew up on dairy farms in Canterbury, and this is possibly where their love for leather has come from. The pair try not to follow trends and stick with things they simply like. Don’t Tell New York’s products are clean, minimalist and timeless. They want to produce goods that will last their owners lifetime. Their kind of customer is someone who works hard, plays harder, and is always prepared Procter is completing his final year studying Business at AUT and Davies is about to complete his first year in Spatial Design. The two friends have always been extremely passionate about design and fashion and having their own brand has long been a shared dream. They have been taking their time with the brand, learning as they go and just enjoying the whole experience. Don’t Tell New York is soon to get a Facebook page and you’ll find them at a pop up store in Ponsonby Central next month. For wholesale enquiries contact info@ donttellnewyork.co.nz.

KESTER BLACK

Kester Black Cosmetics was founded in 2012 by fashion and cosmetics lover Anna Ross. Since then her business has soared to new heights through her passion for collaboration-based palm oil free, luxurious soap ranges. All of Kester Black’s products are manufactured in Australia and follow extremely strict ethical guidelines. Everything produced uses ingredients that are Vegan Society and Chose Cruelty Free accredited, meaning they have not been tested on animals or contain anything that is derived from animals. This season, Kester Black have collaborated with Australian hair-care brand O&M to release a unique range of 12 new nail polish colours. The collaboration was a natural choice for the two brands, which share a commitment to producing high quality products that are ethically manufactured. Kester Black has collaborated with many Australian brands and its original high shine, chip-resistant nail polish has since been expanded to create industry quality products. For product enquiries email press@kesterblack.com

14 I October 2014 AP 1014 pgs.indd 14

21/10/14 4:18 pm


The Undefined Photography - Commercial

DUSKIES Founder of Duskies Eyewear, Andrew ‘Macca’ McKenzie, has always loved eyewear and fashion accessories. Two years ago he saw an opportunity in the marketplace to develop a product that was not only fashion forward but also eco-friendly using recycled and fully sustainable materials. This strong vision combined with his background in carpentry led Macca to the idea of wooden sunglasses. Duskies is a brand for the fashion forward, making sunglasses that are comfortable, strong and hardwearing, and most importantly – have minimal impact on the environment. “Duskies is an extremely environment focused brand and has a strong vision to continue to develop the brand responsibly,” said Macca. “Duskies is proud to offer stylish and comfortable eco-eyewear that are handcrafted from sustainable materials. Inspired by nature, Duskies combine traditional craftsmanship with exceptional design.” Named after the Dusky Sounds in the South Island, where Macca spent a lot of summer holidays growing up, the brand is currently based in Havelock North, Hawkes Bay. Duskies is looking to develop a small exclusive list of stockists nationwide as well as its online offering. This summer will see the launch of the ‘Duskies Project’ where a small amount of sales will be donated to raise funds for communities around New Zealand. For wholesale enquiries please contact Macca, macca@duskies.co.nz.

SLAPSEE EYEWEAR

INHALE APPAREL With an innate ability to create communities for his brand, Corey Lupton has been successful in building the Inhale Apparel brand. After beginning the label when a university transfer didn’t work out as planned, the former accountancy student understands the need to grow his brand with a business mindset. Named after the importance of taking a breath before an action, Inhale Apparel is a lifestyle brand that embodies and combines Lupton’s love of skateboarding, snowboarding and fashion. “It is the breath millions of people take in a moment, whether before they push onto a skateboard ramp, or begin a speech, that is an inhale moment,” said Lupton. What inspire the brand the most is communities and it has been a journey from humble beginnings in Lupton’s hometown of Nelson to its debut at New Zealand Fashion Week 2014. As part of the New Generation show, Inhale Apparel showcased a high-end and fashionable streetwear aesthetic for both women and men. Lupton likes to challenge the constant change of the fashion industry with his custom-made t-shirt line. “Being able to put where you’re from and where you want to go all into a t-shirt design is a reason to get excited and see the potential of the brand.” Inhale Apparel brings its own ethos to the fashion world that mixes with music, athletes and various subcultures to make New Zealand fashion a little unconventional. “We are continuously adapting to new customer demands and strive to provide great customer service. We believe change is good and necessary and you will see this reflected in our upcoming product lines.” For wholesale enquiries contact Corey, info@inhaleapparel.co.nz.

LITTLE FLOCK OF HORRORS

Merino clothing brand Little Flock of Horrors offers supreme couture comfort for children. The childrenswear brand is inspired by owners Lucy and Francis’ two children and caters to the little monster within children. “Little Flock of Horrors is not about rainbows, unicorns, giggling kids or newborns sleeping on sheepskin rugs. Kids will be kids, and we embrace that,” said Lucy. “My son was born in the middle of a particularly cold winter and I stumbled across a couple of merino garments that I fell in love with, the only problem was that the cuts were traditional and boring. I visited a couple of mills over here, bought a sewing machine and then started to sew a few pieces for him. People commented on the colour combinations and cuts so I decided to design a line that was more in line with his style aesthetic and more fashion forward. When my daughter was born 18 months later, Little Flock of Horrors went from a pet project to a designed line.” The brand is currently stocked around the country and is looking to expand its local offering. With a distributor in Australia, United Kingdom, Netherlands and China, the brand have also had its first range stocked in Barneys NY. For wholesale enquiries contact Lucy, lucy@lfoh.net.

SlapSee was born out of practicality from founder Ashleigh Ogilvie-Lee, who was forever putting down her pair of sunnies or reading glasses and completely forgetting about them. After sketching out an idea for a pair of glasses that would still be safely with her when Ogilvie-Lee wasn’t wearing them on her face, SlapSee came to be. The design has come a long way since that initial drawing and they’re now going to a global market. SlapSee Sunnies are launching in six colours – coral, radiant blue, hot pink, mustard, charcoal and black, all paired with stylish black frames. Next year SlapSee plan to introduce more colours and patterns to the range, as well as new frames and the possibility of giving customers the option to have their own message or slogan printed on the arms. The glasses are a very customisable product so there’s scope for collaborating with brands that want to overlay their own styling to the glasses. The unique siliconecoated arms provide great opportunity for custom branding and their fun design means they’ll be a real hit at festivals, sports events or anywhere sponsors are looking to engage with the public. SlapSee Sunnies are being launched simultaneously in New Zealand and Australia in time for the festive and summer season. From November SlapSee are going to be at Westfield Shopping Centres in St Lukes and Manakau, Auckland, Queensgate, Wellington and Riccarton, Christchurch as well as taking over Cable Car Lane in Wellington with a retail installation and a carnival atmosphere. Early next year SlapSee will introduce a range of reading glasses, as well as developing a fantastic line of kid’s eyewear. They are not only practical and safe, but great fun so the junior market will be a big part of their development. For further enquiries contact Ashleigh, ashleigh@slapsee.com

SHARMAINE MOKE

Sharmaine Moke debuted at New Zealand Fashion Week 2014 in the Miromoda show. Her womenswear collection, titled Concrete Jungle was inspired by central city, urban landscapes. Moke’s tailored pieces incorporate a colour palette of grey, white, black and green, representing urban infrastructure and the land. Moke is a fashion graduate of Wellington Polytechnic who has worked in other industries, and most recently qualified as an accountant, however her real passion has always been fashion. Her top priorities are learning as much about the industry as possible and developing her own clothing label GRAY for career women who have a modern, individual sense of style. For more information contact Sharmaine, sharmaine.moke@gmail.com

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 15


COLOUR TRENDING

Eastern Opulence

FROM luscious reds to delicate kimono detailing, designers take the Orient Express in search of inspiration this season. Following Danielle Scutts departure as former head of design, Matthew Williamson took the reigns for his latest collection, designing it himself, from the heart. “I have been doing this a long time, and the trick is to not make a collection repetitive and boring,” said Williamson. With clear inspiration from his recent trip to Bali, the collection centres around brocades, embroidery, tapestry and embellishment, staple elements in a Williamson collection. The show opened with a maroon two-piece suede trouser suit embellished with floral sequin designs and a tassel belt. Maroon, similar to Resene Persian Red, held the collection together, telling the story Bali, incorporating traditional design motifs and reappropriating them for a western customer without losing the message or culture of Bali. Williamson added, “we have to infuse some freshness in it, and here there are no curveballs, no tricks. This all came straight from the heart.” The Louis Vuitton show opened with quotes from the David Lynch film Dune in the form of a video clip ending with a quote from LV saying “oh, yes, I forgot to tell you, today, October 1, the LV house wants to explore the ability to travel to any part of the universe without moving. The journey starts here.” Clearly a futuristic show, the collection housed elements from various times and places across the

16 I October 2014

world. The chunky zip and leather details take what could have been a dated bomber jacket and catapults it forward into a modern offering on a classic eastern print colour matching Resene Roxy. Missoni presented what has been described as an artful journey from morning to night, taking influences from sailboats and colours of the world as the day progresses. Another designer to include floral applique, this time in a softer palette Angela Missoni aimed to produce work of happiness, lightness, and sun-drunk indolence. Taking mens shirts and draping them interestingly around the female form gave birth to a collection that felt effortless and comfortable, as seen in this look matching Resene Negroni. From his upbringing in Lebanon to his experience with Dior and Chanel, Rabih Kayrouz is well known for his expertise use of delicate fabrics and interesting cut with this collection being no different. Taking colours from an oriental selection Kayrouz produced a collection that mixes high end with low to produce a dynamic range of clothing. The collection was based on the narrative of a privileged girl who dreams of grittier horizons, explaining why the in-house designed rose pattern similar to Resene Pulse was caged behind grosgrain and surrounded by ivory. Whilst the “dangerous” choice to use satin was intentionally tacky, mixing all the elements together does wonders to explain the narrative, giving room for the designer to experiment with techniques as he finds his footing in the industry.

RESENE RICE CAKE RESENE MAYHEM RESENE SEBEDEE RESENE PURSUIT RESENE NEGRONI RESENE PULSE RESENE DAREDEVIL RESENE ROXY RESENE PERSIAN RED

Colours available from Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz 0800 737 363


SALVATORE RESENE RICE CAKE

LOUIS VUITTON RESENE MAYHEM

SAINT LAURENT RESENE DAREDEVIL

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON RESENE PERSIAN RED

ANTONIO MARRAS RESENE SEBEDEE

PAUL & JOE RESENE ROXY

MAISON RABIH RESENE PURSUIT

HERMES RESENE PULSE

MISSONI RESENE NEGRONI

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 17


ON THE COVER

PHOTOGRAPHERS Caitlan Mitchell & Ben Zank MODELS Kenyon @ Red11, Zoe @ Unique & Ben (NR)

18 I October 2014


I LOVE UGLY Blazer and James Pant in Oatmeal ZAMBESI Stud Belt WORLD Takuya Shirt in Navy Anchor I LOVE UGLY Dudley Shoe in Black

WORLD Wide Brim Wool Felt Fedora &CO BY TWENTY-SEVEN NAMES Shirt ZAMBESI Blouson Jacket in Carbon ZAMBESI Stud Satchel I LOVE UGLY James Pant in Speckle Black MIMCO First Crush Lace Up

INGRID STARNES Herman Trench in Stone CAMILLA & MARC Piculet Coat in Silver INGRID STARNES Harry Top in White WORLD Dolce Vita Trouser

I LOVE UGLY SUIT Blazer and James Pant in Speckle Black ZAMBESI Stud Belt BARKERS Harcourt Check Shirt in Navy Check


BEHIND THE BUSINESS

CHRISTMAS STARTS NOW By Chris Wilkinson CHRISTMAS is the season retailers wait eagerly for. Those heady December weeks where customers shop as much for themselves – as well as for others, are a time business can boom. The big question is, are your stores ready? It’s all about planning, teamwork and strategy. Getting these elements right will ensure you can fully realise seasonal opportunities Here’s some tips on ways in which to stay ahead during the busy Christmas period: SPENDING TRIGGERS: How are you planning to ignite the Christmas feeling in-store this year? It’s a sensory time so

How to Handle Objections Like a Pro By Anya Anderson

WHEN you’re selling, does a customer objection tell you the sale is over, or do you see it as an opportunity to reinforce the value of the product/service? A common mistake to make when you are selling is to assume that an objection means the end of a sale, but objections are often a good thing!

What are they? Objections are signs that the shopper wants to find out more about the product. If they were not interested, they would probably walk away. The key is to find out what the problem is and turn the objection into a sale. This is one of the most important skills a sales assistant can possess. Without knowing how to turn these people into buyers, as a salesperson, you are just making things harder for yourself.

20 I October 2014

make sure you’ve decoration, events, smells and music that anchor the gift, family and holiday themes consumers identify with. HAVE YOU GOT WHAT THEY WANT? Having your stock right is pivotal to ensuring profitability and consumer goodwill. Make sure you’ve the goods customers want – and enough products to satisfy demand. Too little and you’ll lose sales – to much and it will be burning a hole in the bottom line when it doesn’t all sell. Strategic partnerships with suppliers can help share this risk. PROTECT THE BOTTOM LINE: Manage pricing carefully too. Trends over recent Christmases have seen large retailers start Boxing Day sales during Christmas week – or even earlier. If your markets mirror theirs, consider ways in which you can still be relevant – such as one-off specials or VIP customer deals. Don’t let the competitors steal your thunder! TEAMWORK STARTS NOW: By now you should have rosters in place and expectations set for staff. Be sure to emphasise the importance of this seasonal opportunity – and the pressure it places others under if one person is not performing. One strong and decisive message is often all it takes to ensure everyone is playing their part.

How do you stop them? The best way to prevent an objection from happening is by checking with your customer, throughout your presentation. How else will you know that the product you are trying to sell them meets their needs? While it’s vital to give the correct information, we can sometimes say too much. Yes, it can be tempting to wow customers with your knowledge, but if you’re too detailed and full of jargon, shoppers are just as likely to reject the product because they can feel like they’re being pushed into buying. It’s about getting the right balance. Checking in with your customer will help you keep this balance.

Are you listening? The most important thing is to listen to the customer and acknowledge the objection. Without this the customer probably won’t tell you the real reason they aren’t buying. So it’s important to learn why the customer is objecting, and address those needs. This is done by asking questions. Remember that the customer is interested, so you need to find out exactly what is holding him or her back from buying. The last thing you should do is go on the defensive, using “but” and then trying to oversell the product by listing more features. Remember, it’s not about you or the competition, it’s about your customer.

DON’T BE A LONELY NIGHT-OWL: Festive store hours are an issue many retailers struggle with. Simply opening late and hoping customers will come is no guarantee for success. Instead, talk with others around you and determine if there’s a collective appetite for evening trading. Another solution could be to open half an hour earlier each morning through December to catch people on their way to work. LET ONLINE SHINE: Use online and social media as a way to extend your hours and reach strategically. Be bold and increase the level of promotion over the coming months so customers have your store fully ‘on radar’ when December arrives. PREPARE FOR A SUCCESSFUL 2015: December is also a time to be decisive in tuning the business so it’s prepared for the year ahead. You’re often at your most objective when busy – and prepared to make the tough decisions most necessary in retail today. Take a close look at staffing – ensuring skills, hours and attitudes match your future expectations. Consider range, supplier relationships, marketing and even location as part of a comprehensive ‘where do we want to be’ plan. This fresh vision should provide a great starting point for the New Year.

What about price? When you know exactly what the problem is, you can address it. Don’t always assume that it will be price. If they ask if the price is the best you can offer, don’t feel like you should automatically give them a discount. Some people will always want to negotiate, while others may just want reassurance that it’s good value they’re getting. You need to find out whether the customer is objecting to the price because they don’t have the money or because they don’t see the value in the product, but have plenty of cash to spend. Price is only one possible objection in a long list. For example, shoppers may want to know more about the fabric of a piece of clothing, or they may need to check with a spouse before spending money on an expensive dress. In every case, you need to work hard to understand your customer and to resolve their objection. If you do, you will get the positive buying signals which mean you can close the sale.

YES NO MAYBE?


BEHIND THE BUSINESS

Multichannel Cross Pollination How to make your Stores Blossom I WAS inspired recently by a discussion I had with a new client about their business and how the online store was positioned within the overall business. They were focused on ecommerce sales as THE metric for success in this channel. Although the online store was growing at a rapid rate, it was from a low base. This client didn’t see this outgrowing their largest bricks and mortar location anytime soon (not even close!) I gave pause for thought; there are two ways to answer this question. The easy way would be to cite industry stats and benchmarks to talk about how online should be their largest store by a long shot but that isn’t the whole answer, is it? The reality is that you want to empower customers to shop your brand how they want to and that means that you should be thinking about your other assets; namely stores! Thinking about cross-pollination between channels is the type of thinking that can help lift the entire business. My favorite saying here is that a rising tide raises all boats and this is entirely applicable to the multichannel space when you get the mix right! You can and should be encouraging your customers to visit your store channel. This can be done by offering a fitting service if you are more high-end & luxury or perhaps if you have complex garments that

naturally lend themselves to being tried on. For all other brands you can offer a pick up instore service. In a recent study 43% of all US online shoppers said they currently use this service as a way to shop brands.

By Chris Vincent, PRACTICOLOGY

Here is some other recent market data from the UK. Arguably an even more compelling case for the multichannel world. Of course, the other way you can encourage both online sales & store engagement is to offer free returns; this makes the process easy if you want to return it via post, but even easier if you want to return it to store. To get store engagement right you need to have some sort of incentive for store staff to service your online customer. I’ve seen way too many businesses

that have store staff solely remunerated based on sales or, worse, not incentivised at all! In the multichannel world, what happens when someone wants to exchange or return a sale that didn’t even originate in the store grid?

How do you measure success in the multichannel world? Don’t limit your online strategy to just sales oriented metrics for online, think about how you can drive traffic to stores as a way to improve your entire business. Really think about all the touch points your customer will engage you on, and make sure the store staff are behind you. The more convenience you offer customers across your entire chain, the more likely you are to gain and retain those valuable customers.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 21


COLLECTIONreview

EXAGGERATED CLASSICS OPPOSITES attract, the combination of architectural tailoring with soft seductive layers to achieve a sophisticated sartorial marriage. Liann Bellis’ Exaggerated Classics collection has a unique freshness and speaks volumes of Liann’s journey as a designer from her past collection to this. Bright colours mixed with statement prints draw in a youthful elegance that is playful without stepping over the line of costume. The collection centres on the idea of staples done in an interesting way, incorporating common classics like the trench, suit, pencil skirt and vivacious red, each with its own re-interpretation for the fashion forward woman. Oversized pants with disproportionate jackets create a harmlessly boyish suit look for the Liann Bellis client, a girl who isn’t afraid to dabble in androgyny whilst keeping an innocent yet flirty attitude in her outfit. Playing on two very successful trends, Bellis opens the collection to a wide audience of current wearers, anchoring the feminine detailing in the use of soft pollywool fabrics. It wouldn’t be a winter collection without a heavy dose of black and Exaggerated Classics is no different. The Gracie skirt stands out with its use of satin as to not be lost in the background, demanding

attention in the way it catches the light. Paired with the Katherine shirt the look references traditional feminine figures and proportions, cinched at the waist to emphasise the hips in a non-dramatic fashion. Prints are carefully integrated throughout Exaggerated Classics in a cohesive manner, complimenting each look rather than distracting from the collections message. Elements of boho are represented in the Anouk Top, Emily Shirt and Lucy Tee, whilst timeless prints like the black and white polka dot in the Jesse Top adhere to classic styles seen time and time again. The standout piece and arguably the most youthful of them all is the Esmé Dress, a layered masterpiece that not only incorporates elements of transparency but intricately utilizes interesting seam placements to create a look that balances structure and softness in the most effortless and effective way. The Esmé dress encapsulates the message of the collection, achieving perfect symbiosis of two opposite elements for a dress that is extremely accessible and exciting to wear. As a whole the collection boasts modern sophistication and fun, maintaining a constant balance of elements throughout to achieve a successful offering for a variety of clients.

TRENDwatch

MARC JACOBS

UGLY TO BOOT IT started with the Birkenstock, the sturdy, sensible sole that stormed the runways in unflattering and universally ugly fashion for footwear that is hefty, flat and defiantly unsexy. Designers worldwide have reclaimed a rather pedestrian-looking footwear trend giving the ugly shoe phenomenon a strap-laden new lease on high-fashion life. Complete with orthopedic-style soles, pool slide straps and ultra-utilitarian fastenings, models marched the catwalk in cushy wedges, clunky square heels, squishy cork footbeds, roomy toe boxes and thick-soled sandals for a lesson in comfortable cool. Encapsulating a variety of styles, so far the ugly-chic sandal spawn has included a sequinned hiking shoe-and-sock combo at Prada, neoprene pool platforms at Marni, futuristic high-tops at VPL, spongy shower shoes at MSGM and actual Birkenstocks at Edun. Whether you feel excited, disgusted or plainly perplexed about fashion’s sweeping shoe trend, it’s a look that’s stomping on full speed ahead.

22 I October 2014

MARNI

GIVENCHY

TOMMY HILFIGER

PRADA CELINE


BEHIND THE BUSINESS

COMBATING COPYISTS

Allowing copies of your original prints to remain in the marketplace can impact your bottom line with reduced sales, and can damage your brand and reputation if the clothing your print is used on is of an inferior quality. By Corinne Cole

IN an earlier issue of Apparel, I commented on the Seafolly v Fewstone (trading as City Beach) lawsuit. While the case highlighted the dangers of posting false comments on Facebook, it was principally about copyright infringement. City Beach copied Seafolly’s designs and sold them in 60 stores Australia-wide under its own brands. Tried in the Federal Court of Australia, City Beach was sued for infringement of Seafolly’s copyright in three copyright works: two fabric prints and a design embroidered onto clothing. Seafolly was successful in the lawsuit, and City Beach was ordered to pay Seafolly over AU$250,000 in damages. For some fashion designers, the use of distinctive fabric or textile prints can represent a strong part of their brand identity, helping them to stand out in the marketplace and attract consumers to their clothing. A good example of this is Burberry, famous for its highly recognisable ‘Haymarket check’. Moet Hennessey Louis Vuitton (LVMH) does the same through its use of the distinctive LV monogram as a fabric or textile print. Dealing with copyists is an issue all fashion designers need to be aware of. The Seafolly decision provides a great example of how designers can fight back against copyists and enforce their rights in exclusive prints. Here are three tips to protect your original fabric or textile prints: 1. Record what you create When creating a new print design, it is usually the final design that is at the front of a designer’s mind, not the design process. But, if a third party copies your original print design, or accuses you of copying their design, you need to be able to show how your print design was created. Therefore, designers should keep accurate records showing every stage of a design and how the design evolved, including any reference materials used in the design process. Having an accurate design file, both digitally and in hard copy, is the best way to do this. Your design file should contain all documents that show the design creation process, including concept and sketch design drawings, discussion documents, design influences, and any documents that discuss the design and its direction. Part of Seafolly’s success was

because it was able to produce complete design files for its prints, showing the works were original and that they had been independently created. 2. Own what you create Ownership can be tricky. Copyright is usually owned by the creator of the copyright work. This includes the design creator (or the employer of that person if the work is created during the creator’s employment). However, if a designer uses a freelance designer to create original fabric prints, the copyright in the print will be owned by the freelancer – unless there is a contractual arrangement in place to assign copyright from the freelancer to the designer upon completion of the work. Similarly, if a designer sources fabric prints from fabric design houses, then the fabric design house will most likely own the copyright – unless negotiated and agreed otherwise. In short, all employees should have a written employment contract (confirming that employees are ‘employees’ and not contractors) and freelancers or suppliers of print designs, should be asked to sign a copyright assignment for designs they create for your business. Seafolly used third parties to design some of its original fabric prints copied by City Beach but was able to produce written assignments proving its ownership of the copyright in the prints thus enabling them to sue for infringement. 3. Enforce what you own Watch competitors and keep an eye on the marketplace to ensure that copies of your fabric prints are quickly found and action taken. Allowing copies of your original prints to remain in the marketplace can impact your bottom line with reduced sales, and can damage your brand and reputation if the clothing your print is used on is of an inferior quality. Some of the damages awarded to Seafolly were to compensate for lost sales. Damages awarded in the amount of AU$20,000 were for harm to Seafolly’s reputation. The remaining AU$150,000 was awarded for various reasons, including to discourage City Beach from other copying and to defer others in the clothing industry who may be tempted to engage in copying.

Signing off… Having an original fabric print to visually link your designs with consumers can be a valuable and distinct way to build a brand. So it is important that your investment in original designs is protected, and that you take action to combat copyists who try to take advantage of your assets.

iP is about ideas protected If you’re in the design industry then you’re in the business of creating intellectual property. Helping you turn that IP into a valuable asset is where we come in. If you want to find out how to be rewarded for your creativity and innovation – talk to us about protecting and commercialising your IP. We’ve been helping designers do this since 1891! Contact us today to find out more. 0800 257 275 I www.ajpark.com I New Zealand + Australia

AJ Park is about iP • intellectual property • igniting passion • ideas pervading

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 23


BEHIND THE BUSINESS

’Tis the Season to Sell Early - or More Often By Zoe Ripley

WITH the Christmas holidays fast approaching, I’m sure most of you are starting to plan your annual end-of-year sales, promotions and other methods of getting in front of your customers. You’re not alone — from what we’ve seen, most retailers in the Asia-Pacific region begin their festive season push around October or November. But for many businesses, that could be too little, too late. At ChannelAdvisor, we recently ran a survey of UK and US retailers that found that almost half begin their holiday push in September and that one in five will start in August or even sooner. What does that mean for New Zealand retailers? Not much, except that many of UK and US retailers are competing

with you online. So if you’re only starting your campaigns in October or November, you might have already lost a sizable chunk of your market share to more proactive sellers. How can you avoid lagging behind international competitors? The obvious solution is to act earlier, so that your campaigns coincide or even pre-empt those of overseas retailers. For some, that will also give you an advantage in the local market, at least for the short term. However, competing on timeliness is like competing on price: You can only push it so far before the race becomes unsustainable.w Another, perhaps longer-term, strategy is to move more often. In other words, plan your campaigns and promotions around more seasons than just the end of the year. What sort of ‘seasons’ might these be? That all depends on your customers. Let’s say, for example, that you sell premium wool products (such as Ugg boots or outdoor wear). A growing number of your customers may be from China or other parts of Asia, where top-quality wool is highly prized but often hard to find locally. As a result, it may make more sense for

you to focus some of your promotions on events such as Singles Day and Chinese New Year along with Christmas — especially as the Year of the Ram rolls around. Like most successful retail strategies, leveraging these events requires you to understand your customers. As more and more sales are made online, this is becoming easy for even non-technical retailers to do. A lot of ChannelAdvisor’s customers in the region, for example, manage multiple online channels through our central platform, which allows them to not only consolidate inventory but also see where products are going and when. This data then helps them identify potential peak sale times during the year and tailor campaigns, promotions and inventory accordingly. A lot of retailers take a ‘me too’ attitude towards promotions and seasonal specials. I don’t think there’s necessarily anything wrong with that, but I think it’s far smarter to think first and foremost about connecting with customers: working out what drives them to buy and when. Instead of trying to mould customer behaviour to our assumptions about peak sale times, retailers should use it as the starting point for working out what events and dates will make a big splash. Putting the customer first? It’s simple, but it works in all seasons.

WITH ALL THE TRIMMINGS

Long-time trimming suppliers are playing in a new game with changing trends in fashion manufacturing. Needles, threads, fringe, labels,buttons and more - here’s how they make the little things count. FRINGEMAKERS

Alan Elliott is New Zealand’s only Fringemaker, turning out 2,000 metres of fringe a week with his reliable 60 year old machinery. Based in Takanini, Fringemakers is utilised by a wide variety of industries, including apparel manufacturers and interiors. Mussel farms are even known to call on Fringemakers for plastic fringing. The company competes with larger offshore fringe and braid manufacturers by being adaptable, offering reasonable pricing with quality personal service.

TERRY APPAREL

Terry Apparel has been supplying threads and needles to the New Zealand and Pacific textile markets for more than 25 years. The companycontinues to grow its product portfolio, attracting new local and offshore customers. The new products are meeting the production needs of the market with competitive pricing and supply times. In 2012 Gethin Sladen bought the family business from his father-in-law John Tudehope after working under John for 10 years. Since taking over the company,

24 I October 2014

Gethin has moved its supply into Fiji to accommodate the growing manufacturing business in the Islands. Gethin came into the trade from a 15 year background in hospitality and service remains a key part of the culture at Terry Apparel.

BOLD PRINT

Bold Print began in 1991 with current owner Rob Martin. Based in Auckland, Bold Print is a specialist supplier of labels as well as the national agent for Australia’s largest label weaver, Cash’s Apparel Solutions. Benefiting from his own experience as well as connections from Cash’s, Martin’s company delivers quality labeling solutions for the whole of New Zealand. The business has an extensive selection of products and services to offer, including woven garment labels, adhesive labels, promotional items, carpet sample labels, tickets and ticketing appliances. Bold Print is also looking to expanding its bureau label and barcoding services, which can be supplied with a short turn around. The company is a versatile and adaptable business, providing quality service for both small and large orders. Martin works with factories in Asia and can assist New Zealand businesses with label supply when producing offshore, a very popular service that ensures presentation consistency between garment and label.

TRENDY TRIMS

Trendy Trims Limited has been a family owned business since its inception in 1977. The owners/ directors Colin and Anne Lowe started the business from scratch in their garage and have grown it into the prosperous business it is today with 12 staff and three agents nationwide. A recent addition to Trendy Trims are the Lowe’s daughters Rachael and Melissa, whose husbands Brad and Daniel have been instrumental to the company over the last 15 years. With ever changing apparel trends, Trendy Trims core competencies of optimising inventory holdings, reacting to in-season trends and exploiting market opportunities have continued to thrive in a difficult market. Whether the requirement is an Italian button, haberdashery, an exclusive trim or dye to match service, Trendy Trims are able to ensure their offering to the apparel market is in line with market demands. As the exclusive New Zealand agent for Mokuba, Trendy Trims also continue to see the demand for these exquisite Japanese trimmings and ribbons. The acquisition of Abbey Buttons in 2013 has also opened up more opportunities for the apparel market as Trendy Trims now offer an extensive button range with the ability to dye buttons and trims to match the fashion industries latest colours.


BEHIND THE BUSINESS

The Third Wardrobe LOUNGEWEAR is fast becoming the ultimate luxury clothing that consumers can’t wait to slip into. It includes garments that can be worn on the couch, at work and in town. It’s the in-between wardrobe that is comfortable as well as practical. For this reason, loungewear has been called the third wardrobe. “Loungewear is a fluid and changing category. The distinction between loungewear and leisurewear is becoming less pronounced. It is increasingly about customers mixing and matching items and creating a ‘third wardrobe’,” says luxury sleepwear and daywear brand Derek-Rose’s head of marketing & eCommerce, Tom Parnell. A number of already available garments come into the loungewear category therefore, loungewear provides retailers and manufacturers the benefit of extended use. What was a silk pyjama shirt is now an expensive seeming blouse. If a consumer perceives this, a specific garment can be much easier to sell. But will a mainstream consumer make this leap when deciding on a purchase? Like most things in fashion, loungewear has come from a trickle down effect. Most fashion critics pin down Marc Jacob’s 2012 resort collection for Louis Vuitton as sparking an interest in Loungewear. Marc Jacobs went on to take a bow in his pyjamas at subsequent runway shows and leading brands such as Alexander Wang, La Perla and Marks & Spencer started to incorporate loungewear into their collections with collared shirt sets, dressing gown like kimonos and comfortable daywear. “Demand for comfortable, and stylish, clothing has grown rapidly, and across all sectors,” explains trend analyst, Katie Smith of EDITD. “Active lifestyles have facilitated this…yoga practice alone has risen by 29% in the US since 2008. Improved home entertainment and technology has also impacted our behaviour within the home - call it the Netflix affect!” Jogging bottoms for example have been propelled by the sports luxe trend and a more relaxed style. “There was huge growth in new arrivals between 2012 and 2013 for this garment - up 96%” Smith reports. “Jogging bottoms have a replenishment rate of 11.6%... A market breakdown is interesting, revealing the high proportion of products in the luxury market - 16% of jogging bottoms (which seem like such a sporty, low cost item) are within the luxury segment, and 15% within premium market.” For high-end brands, loungewear embodies a sense of luxury. Swiss brand Hanro designs ‘the world’s finest lingerie, nightwear and loungewear’. They have been developing their loungewear range in the past few years and see strong market potential for both men and women. Hanro’s current loungewear range is ‘perfect for any yacht or marina’ as they see rest and relaxation as the highest luxury for a hardworking consumer. As Peter Alexander remarks: “People are enjoying their time at home and understand comfort is the ultimate in luxury. They tend to think its loungewear you can wear in and outdoors. That is really what it is - two uses for the price of one!” “Our typical female Hanro customer wears her Hanro cardigan or her embroidered cotton t-shirt with high heels and skinny jeans for work, with shorts and sneakers on weekends and with leggings at home on the couch,” says Hanro’s CEO Heike Dückers. Whether working or resting it is luxurious to feel relaxed while being on trend. However, this does not mean that Hanro’s customers are all luxury shoppers. “The desire to wear loungy styles in leisure time which are comfortable yet fashionable and wellgroomed is a general trend throughout all markets, affecting all customers.” Loungewear is clearly no

A number of already available garments come into the loungewear category therefore, loungewear provides retailers and manufacturers the benefit of extended use.

1

2

3

4

5

7

1. HUGH HEFNER 2. HANRO 3. DEREK-ROSE 4. LA PERLA SS15 5. MARC JACOBS 6. ALEXANDER WANG SS14 7. LOUIS VUITTON RESORT 2012

6

longer for the Hugh Hefners of the world. “Both our silk and our merino collections are designed to be loungy,” explains Faye Lowe of For Every Minute. “If someone dropped by for coffee you are just as elegant in your pyjamas.” Elegance plays a key role in For Every Minute’s collections. Their garments are for both sleep and lounge, which gives their customer the luxury of choosing how to wear them. Department stores such as Smith & Caughey’s are getting cosy with loungewear, noticing that modern sleepwear styles with a loungewear aesthetic have been selling well. “Styles have evolved to the letter box or further,” Smith & Caugheys Sleepwear buyer Anne Harray explains. “Sleepwear is becoming a more relaxed loungewear type garment, especially with brands such as Calvin Klein and Deshabille. Fabrications have changed so much that sleepwear is much more comfortable and loungy.” Derek-Rose’s loungewear category has stemmed from both their customers and their own garment manufacturing becoming more discerning. New technological advancement in garment making, such as luxury micromodal production, means clothing can be much softer and knowing customers seek out this comfort. But what about workwear being adapted into loungewear? Is this backwards or a sign of the time? FIGS at its core is an environmentally friendly scrubs manufacturer and wholesale for various medical professionals. However, they have developed a ‘California’ range of scrubs that are best described as loungewear, they are ‘cool and relaxed for work and life’. That work attire can be tweaked to become loungewear is a compelling change of tact. Loungewear is snuggling up to all types of consumers. Sleepwear brands, lingerie brands, large retailers and scrubs makers are all leveraging the loungewear trend. With a recorded replenishment rate of 12.5%, as recorded by EDITD, loungewear is a category that not only mixes well with a customer’s wardrobe but with brand strategies as well. By Jessica-Belle Greer

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 25


EDITD

Does the Consumer Confidence Index affect fashion trends? By Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITD

EARLIER this month, The Conference Board announced the Consumer Confidence Index had dropped in September to 86, after four months of consecutive growth. The Index, conducted for The Conference Board by Nielsen, surveys 5,000 representative U.S. households for economic optimism. 40% of the index comes from consumers’ views of the current situation, and 60% of the index is consumers’ expectations of the economic outlook for the next six months – therefore an interesting metric for deciphering sales and planning for upcoming consumer behaviour. But how does the Consumer Confidence Index (CCI) relate to apparel retail sales?

Low CCI suggests a dominance of black With EDITD’s Color Analytics tools, it’s possible to view commercial activity by colour. The lowest the CCI has been in the last ten months was December 2013, and the second lowest was February 2014. Interestingly, products which sold out during those two months have something in common – there’s a huge dominance of black and grey tones. Certainly there’s some seasonality around this, but the activity in December is noteworthy – not only is this gifting and party season, but a time for sales. In February, as new season products arrive into store, it is usual to see some uplift in the palette – but with low CCI, none was evidenced. July and August, the two months with the highest CCI, which was 90.3 and 93.4 respectively, saw black products shrink back. The growth went into blues and pinks instead. Could the drop in CCI for September have been preempted by August’s increase in black products compared to July?

Product price correlation Plotting the CCI alongside the average price of products which sold out each month (what consumers bought) and the average price of new products arriving into stores each month (what retailers are doing) is also incredibly insightful. In January and February, as retailers’ prices grew, consumer confidence fell. Conversely, in May, as average retail prices fell, consumer confidence grew.

Trend-led products remain resilient It’s worth noting that elaborate trends for flamboyant products are not effected by CCI – take embellishment for example, which was hugely popular December through to February, sloped off over summer and has returned for September, despite sinking CCI. Consumers still want trendled product – their confidence is reflected in subtle and more complex ways. This is a positive for retailers – getting trends right and well-timed will still entice spend, but they just need to get savvy and flexible around pricing and merchandising in response to economic metrics.

What can retailers do? It’s increasingly important for modern day retailers to be able to react to metrics like the Consumer Confidence Index, average pricing and consumer demands, in real-time. Close analysis of historical data means retailers can understand their customer’s colour decisions and pre-empt when they need to drop the average pricing, ahead of a downwards shift in CCI. Taking near-term action, such as merchandising black and grey products in response to a dip in CCI, or activating discounting promotions around colorful items, are just a few ways retailers can trade smarter with data. We’ve entered a fascinating era for retail.

26 I October 2014


BRAND PROFILE

STARTING as a humble street wear brand in 1999, Ruby has increased its offerings as a fashion forward company under the design vision of Deanna Didovich. “In 2008 I began designing for the company. At this time, we began to shift the brand in a more fashion-focussed direction to reinvigorate the energy behind it,” Didovich said. Rooted in customer understanding, the brand prides itself on delivering garments that maintain a good balance of what the customer wants, needs, and desires. “Our biggest challenge is also our biggest opportunity. Because of our customers’ access to online clothing stores, the market has never been more competitive. At the same time, we have never had such easy access to potential customers all over the world. So the key point for us is to have a unique and clear brand message and to ensure that we stay true to that, across all of our platforms.” With a clear youth following, Ruby has integrated modern techniques to engage the audience, offering a online shopping and embracing social media. However, as the brand grows the audience widens, attracting interest from a more mature customer base. This has led to the creation of Liam.

“Ruby has always had a strong youth following. One way to ensure that our customers stay shopping with us without compromising the Ruby message was for us to launch Liam, a brand which reaches a more mature audience.” Ruby has been able to cut through the current competitive retail climate by offering a unique product that is design-driven, as opposed to the all too common pick and mix of overseas high street stores, coupled with loyal customers who are willing to embrace change. Without abandoning all traditions, Didovich believes the brand succeeds in offering both a physical store presence and a strong online experience, explaining that in the current retail climate, one would not exist without the other. Quality garments that stand the test of time is what Ruby offers to the sustainable conversation happening in the apparel industry and the brand remains socially conscious about how and where they produce their clothing. “We find ways to utilise and repurpose our fabric off cuts. Instead of throwing them out, we donate them to community sewing classes.” A personal favourite of Didovich, the Betty Playsuit, is one garment that defines the brand and has been a nationwide hit, selling out in one day after being re-introduced to the

Ruby ‘Favourites’ collection. But with consumers demanding more choice, Ruby has a deep understanding of the people who invest in their garments and has focused on meeting their needs. “Within the past few years, customers have become so savvy in the way they shop. There is so much choice at the click of a button, which means you need to focus on what you do best and ensure that your choice is always the first choice for the customer.” With numerous shows at New Zealand fashion week and coverage across top name publications, the company is developing its retail presence and is flourishing within a difficult environment. Didovich adds, “We are also very excited about an upcoming collaboration later this month with London-based illustrator GATTOBRAVO.” RUBY x GATTOBRAVO is a limited edition capsule collection of fifteen wearable and collectable pieces with a hint of French flair. Ruby can be found online at http://www. rubynz.com/ and is currently stocked at Sisters & Co, Guilty as Sin, Hunt & Seek, Raw Energy, Trouble and Fox, Bazaar The Empire and Contain Boutique. They also have their own retail presence in Auckland, Hamilton, Wellington, Christchurch and Dunedin.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

AP 1014 pgs.indd 27

I 27 21/10/14 4:18 pm


HQ Cutting Classified.pdf

CLASSIFIEDS

1

14/02/14

1:52 PM

C

M

Experts in design and production preparation for NZ and Off Shore

Y

CM

Professional Pattern Making, Grading and Marker Making (card or cad)

MY

CY

Our skills and unique service will help make your Designs a reality

CMY

K

www.patternpotentials.co.nz phone: 07 889 3876

email: sue@patternpotentials.co.nz

Advanced Diploma in

Goldsmithing & Jewellery

• Knitwear and knitted product development • Digital textile and garment printing • E-textile development • Commercial research and development • Technical support and consultancy • Short courses in textile knowledge, digital textile design and knitwear • Customised short courses

NZQA approved for N.Z. & Australian students

Visit: www.tdl.aut.ac.nz

+64 9 377 2468

I

Email: tdl@aut.ac.nz

Knitted lighting by Kate Ramsay

www.jewel.school.nz Auckland New Zealand

handmade cluster by Petra Bettjeman

KEEN CUTTING CO Automated or manual cutting available. We can organize pattern making, computer grading and marking.

FRINGE MAKER & BRAID MANUFACTURER NEW ZEALAND

New Zealands only Fringe and Braid manufacturer. Fringe and Braid for all occasions, eg. lampshades, mats, cushions, curtains, furniture trim, banners, umbrellas, bridal cars, limousines, clothing, costumes, show ribbons, arts and crafts.

Give us a call and see if we can help.

Ph 09 276 8338 or email keencutting@xtra.co.nz 5/91 Huia Road, Otahuhu Auckland 1062

CONTACT THE FRINGEMAKER

Phone: +64 (0)9 299 9141 Mob: +64 (0)21 063 0903 Fax: +64 (0)9 296 6339 3/11 Walters Road, Takanini, Auckland 2244, New Zealand Email: fringemaker@gmail.com or visit www.fringemaker.co.nz

subscription form Name : _________________________________________________________Address: __________________________________________________ Phone:___________________________________ Email: _____________________________________________ I am paying by

n Cheque (enclosed)

Card Number:

nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn

Expiry Date: _____ / _____ / _____

n American Express

Name on Card:_______________________________________________

OR n please invoice me at the above address.

n Asia/Pacific 190 $

GST NO: ______________________________

n RoW 210 $

Fax or Mail to: APPAREL MAGAZINE PO Box 37140, Parnell, Auckland, Fax: (09) 377 2794

28 I October 2014

n Visa/Mastercard


CLASSIFIEDS

MORE THAN JUST BIAS BINDING www.generalproducts.co.nz Contact PHILIP TANNER philip@generalproducts.co.nz or 09 3735762

Master classes in Millinery, Corsetry & Vintage Dressmaking For further information: info@punga-road-studios.co.nz Ph. 022 3121 191

RollingRacks ONLY

$130 + GST + FREIGHT

surestyle.co.nz

0800 474 358

The Tailors Collection

Made in New Zealand for New Zealand Sizes

SINCE 2001

New Zealand Clothing Manufactures

400 Colors always available For 100% Spun Polyester Sewing Thread • 120 x 5,000m GOOD QUALITY • COMPETITIVE PRICE Call us to get free sample

DAVID IMPORT LIMITED Ph: 09 849 4008 Fax: 09 849 5505 47B Onehunga Mall, Onehunga, Auckland Email: davidimportltd@gmail.com

Ph: 09 828 5206

www.purfex.com

BOOK NOW

CONTACT SARAH 09 304 0142 EXT 702 OR SARAH@ REVIEWMAGS.COM apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 29


er-seaming d-hemming/Bar-tacking ool/Sport-wear uniforms CLASSIFIEDS rations

ph 09 444 3544

Email: patternz@xtra.co.nzMAY

THE SHOPFITTING

new shore pleaters.indd 1

(OWNER OPERATOR) SPECIALISTS 444 9010 or 021 613 839

ONE ANITA

t

f

top sales person required LARGE RANGE OFEnthusiastic NEW ZEALAND for this long established company of QUALITY MADE SHOP FITTINGS GARMENT RACKS ,RESULTS good repute. Generous commission rate SUPERIOR AVAILABLE EX-STOCK OR and pleasant work environment. Must BASKET UNITS , MESH/ IN HALF THEPROvidiNG: TIME MANUFACTURED TO ORDER reliable vehicle, maintain have existing GRID, HANGERS , SIZE customers and seek newGUARANTEED! outlets. Show • New Zealand Professional CMT DIVIDERS, BODY FORMS professionalism in work AND ethics, OTHER DISPLAY • Long standing reputable service regular calling plan. ACCESSORIES RACK-HIRE TERRITORY: Auckland City and Greater New Zealand industry SERVICE AVAILABLE Auckland, Sales & Demonstrations • High attention to detail Northland, Waikato, B.O.P. START DATE: August0508 2010

13/10/09 10:06 AM

l to the apparel

Full CMT Service • Full service – small or large runs

AGENCY • Quick turnaround times Providing end to end solutions for 0508 243629 CONTACT: Pieter Olivier, • Specialists in woven pieter@reviewmags.co.nz

www.bma.co.nz Ph 0800 38 0800 Fax 09 636 9379 www.displays.co.nz Office, Factory and Showroom: 6A Henderson Place, Onehunga, Auckland

w

GUY THORNTON

mplete the ll s, from s to ucing ctivity.

GARMENT TECHNOLOGY

7 1 21

t.....

CONTACT dAvid FREEMAN • Pattern Grading • Cutting • Making Now To diSCuSS your reQuireMeNTS • Finishing • Pressing • Ticketing

PH 09 377 1678 Providing quality for 25 years

Providing technical support to the clothing industry for the past 33 years

EMAiL: david @tamarafashions.co.nz Your label at the centre of our business

◆ Computerised Markers (Pad System) ◆ Gerber & Lectra compatible ◆ Pattern Making 100% Recyclable ◆ Pattern Grading ◆ Sampling Incredibly Durable ◆ Cutting ◆ Production Runs

Call us on 09 444 9010 Emerging designers &today boutique owners or email us at

Sales & Hire

call:

sampling and production

Wanted Stock

For new enquiries@kerilinfashions.co.nz clothing outlet We can provide friendly, helpful and personalised Designed in New Zealand for our introductory offer in Christchurch 0508 AGENCY service for all your cutting needs. PH: 09 441 3187, FAx: 09 441 0508 243629 3190 EMAiL: guy@patternmaksamples end of www.kerilinfashions.co.nz ers.co.nz or liz@patternmakers. w w wco.nz . p uwww.patternmakers.co.nz r f o r m . n e t lines | p h 0 etc 9 579 5566 arnet www.bma.co.nz Garment Cutting Services email robyn Call Kevin on 579 8002 email arnetkevin@yahoo.com Complete Sam or andrea Complete Sampling Service Pa Patternmaking adjj@xtra.co.nz (compute (computerised & manual) Computerised Digitisin Computerised Digitising & Grading phone 03 3431681 (Card o (Card or paper patterns) Computerised Marker Making (Compatible with Pad, Gerber Accumark and Lectra) Sample cutting with Fabric Estimates Sample Making Production Runs Production Cutting

d

Computerised Ma (Compatible with Pad, Gerber Accu Sample cutting with Fabr Sa Prod Produc

Specialist manufacturer of fabric labels. We supply printed, woven and sash labels. CONTACT US for all your labelling and ribbon printing requirements.

Call the team at Ph: (09) 369 9249 or email helenh@hsr.co.nz 21D PORANA RD, WAIRAU VALLEY

t

ph. 09 579 5566

31

ORDER ONLINE OR BY PHONE

20%* OFF

Hangers by the box

21D PORANA RD, W

www.foilprint.co.nz

MAY 2009 app arel 31

Classic Element s MAY 2010 app arel

31

Complete Sampling Service Patternmaking (computerised & manual) 23/04/10 Digitising 11:00 AM 23/04/10 11:00 AM Computerised & Grading (Card or paper patterns) Computerised Marker Making Fresh (Compatible with Pad, Gerber Accumark andnew Lectra)jewellery Sample cutting with Fabric Estimates Sample Making and clothing from our Production Runs Production Cutting

in

house designs.

* Timber hangers only

www.displays.co.nz 0800 38 0800 30 I October 2014

C

Ph: (09) 369 9249 or email he T: 0800 365 250 E: info@foilprint.co.nz

For wholesale enquiries please contact us: Phone: 09 42 61275 or email sales@classicelements.co.nz or visit www.classicelements.co.nz Call the team at Ph: (09) 369 9249 or email helenh@hsr.co.nz 21D PORANA RD, WAIRAU VALLEY


2015 INDUSTRY TRADE DIRECTORY FILL IN THIS FORM FOR YOUR FREE LISTING Straight to the desks of the decision makers! In response to the huge demand from all sectors within the industry for an updated directory resource that stitches together the disparate threads of the Kiwi ragtrade, footwear and textile industries, Apparel magazine is currently preparing the 2015 APPAREL TRADE DIRECTORY. To be a part of this major project, please fill out the form below and return the form to us via email, post or fax. The listing is FREE! However, if you wish to make your listing pop off the page you may like to add your colour logo

for just $150. Obviously to be able to produce this directory we need your advertising support and as well as the additional logo there are display advertising options available. To assure your place in the directory contact us now to avoid missing out on being part of this vital industry resource. This directory is to include absolutely everyone who has anything to do with the apparel industry, from PR showrooms to designers to technology and business specialists. So don’t delay fill out the form below for your FREE listing.

To complete your free basic listing, please fill in the information below. Company Name:

________________________________________________________________________

Company Address: ________________________________________________________________________ Contact Name:

________________________________________________________________________

Phone: _________________________________________

Fax: ___________________________________

Email: _________________________________________

Website: _______________________________

Category Listing: n Accessories n Childrenswear n POS n Packaging n Logistics n Modelling Agency

n Alterations/Sampling n Womenswear n Security n Store Design n Public Relations n Showroom

n Agent n Menswear n Shopfitting n Technology n Trimmings n CMT

n Footwear n Services n Textiles n other ________________

_______________________

_______________________

_______________________

_______________________

_______________________

_______________________

_______________________

_______________________

_______________________

_______________________

_______________________

_______________________

_______________________

_______________________

_______________________

_______________________

Brands:

Mail, Fax, or email to: PO Box 37140, Parnell, Auckland, Fax: (09) 377 2794 or email: sarah@reviewmags.com

n YES! Add my colour logo to my free basic listing for just $150+gst. apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 31


TAILOR-MADE FREIGHT SOLUTIONS FROM RUNWAY TO RUNWAY From production to distribution, Merz can offer you an innovative and reliable logistics package that delivers. Let us create systems that provide satisfaction and support growth. Work with the freight company that knows, and supports New Zealand Fashion and Commerce. If you’d like to know more, call us on (09) 255 1330, or drop us a line at reception@merz.co.nz

MERZ LOGISTICS LTD

25-27 Andrew Baxter Drive, Airport Oaks, Mangere, Auckland P.O. Box 1167, Shortland Street, Auckland 1140, New Zealand Phone +64 9 255 1330 www.merz.co.nz Fax +64 9 255 1331


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.