Apparel Magazine // October 2016

$ 9.00

OCTOBER 2016 I VOL 49 I NO 10

Apparel Meets Henry Holland

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04 NEWS 10 BEAUTY NEWS 14 FOOTWEAR NEWS 18 RADAR 24 INDUSTRY ACCORDING TO . . .

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ELVIS HAS LEFT THE BUILDING . . .

My father started Apparel in 1969 and growing up I loved to go into work and see the magazines come together. When I was about five I sat next to the editor of Apparel and was annoying her asking so many questions. To distract me she asked what I wanted to be when I grew up, to which I replied “I’m going to have your job” and that day has finally come as our Editorial Director, (and my older sister) Sarah Mitchell, is on holiday in New York City and I’m filling in.

In her absence, the team has put together some great stories for you including an interview with iconic designer Henry Holland from House Of Holland. He talks about his career so far and his plans for world domination, go to page 26 to read all about it.

During WW2, nylon stocking production was stopped to create parachutes for the war and made them a rare and high-priced luxury. From August 1945 to March 1946, women fought to get their hands on nylon stockings. In one case in Pittsburgh over 40,000 women battled for 13,000 pairs.

caitlan@reviewmags.com ON THE COVER: Designer: Ariane Bray, Bachelor of Design (Honours) student at Otago Polytechnic; Model: Kayleigh at Aart Model Management; Photographer: Chris Sullivan

20th Century Fashion.

100 Years of Apparel Ads

Alison A. Nieder and Jim Heimann Taschen The 20th century saw fashion evolve from an exclusive Parisian salon business catering to a wealthy elite into a global industry employing millions, with new trends whisked into stores before the last model has left the catwalk.

Along the way, the signature silhouettes of each era evolved beyond recognition. For women, House of Worth crinolines gave way to Vionnet’s bias-cut gowns, Dior’s New Look to Quant’s Chelsea Look, Halston’s white suit to Frankie B’s low-rise jeans. In menswear, ready-made suits signalled the demise of bespoke tailoring, long before Hawaiian shirts or skinny jeans entered the fore. This book offers a retrospective of the last hundred years of style via 400 fashion ads from the Jim Heimann Collection.

The images trace not only the changing trends but also the evolution in their marketing and audience, as fashion was adopted into popular culture and the mass market, decade by decade.

Distributed by New Holland, $50.00.

BLOOM

Estée Lalonde

In Priscilla Queen Of The Desert The Musical, there are over 220 costume changes and 40 wig changes in the show. The fastest wig and makeup change during the show is 15 seconds.

In 1903, Albert J. Parkhouse arrived at work and found there was no hooks to hang his coat. Annoyed, Parkhouse picked up some wire and bent it into two long ovals and twisted a hook in the middle.

PUBLISHER Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com ADVERTISING SALES Josie McKeefry - josie@reviewmags.com SENIOR DESIGNER Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com DESIGN ASSISTANT Hannah Sames PHOTOGRAPHER Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com

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We also have our Apparel Trade Directory coming out soon, suppliers, designers and manufacturers – don’t forget to fill out the form for a free listing.

As many of you know, my father is popular for his ‘Last Word’ column in our publications, in particular for ending his column with a terrible joke, a trait which I have unfortunately inherited.

So a quick joke before Sarah returns; there was a woman who tried to board a bus but her skirt was so tight she couldn’t make it up the steps. She reached behind her and lowered her zip and tried again, but still the skirt was too tight. She reached behind her again to lower the zip even more and again the skirt was too tight.

Determined to catch this bus, she tried once again to lower the zip and attempt to climb aboard, but this time she felt two hands on her butt. It was a man helping her onto the bus. She turned around angrily and said “Sir, I don’t know you’ well enough for you to behave in such a manner.” The man replied, “Lady, I don’t know you well enough for you to unzip my fly three times either!”

Estée Lalonde is one of the stand-out voices of the digital generation, loved for her friendly, honest and relatable personality, her approachable content and original style. A successful beauty and lifestyle vlogger and social influencer, she ahs attracted a global audience of over 2.3 million across You Tube, Instagram, Facebook and Twitter. She has partnered with a number of key global brands, from Burberry and The Body Shop to the United Nations for their Global Goals campaign. Lalonde tackles the enigmatic subject of style in her new book Bloom and what it means to who and what inspires her personal style.

MEN AND STYLE: Essays, Interviews and Considerations David Coggins 58 percent of girls in the US between the age of 8 and 18 wear makeup. 65 percent of these girls started wearing makeup between 8 and 13.

ADMINISTRATION MANAGER Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com INTERNS: Eloise Sims, Stephanie White, Courtney Macris ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.

Coggins is a popular journalist who lives in New York and writes about tailoring, drinking, travel, art and fly fishing for a number of publications around the globe. Men and Style pushes its readers beyond just style advice, but also provokes an interesting conversation about the masculine identity within the world of fashion. As well as exploring the history of men’s style paired with advice from some of the world’s most notable tastemakers in the industry. Coggins’ essays and interviews discuss lessons men learned from their fathers, mistakes some made as young men and how they emerged to become better men.

Australia’s dedicated footwear and leather TRADE show

Register to visit footwearleathershow.com.au Partner

Co-located with

EXPAND YOUR DESIGN ENGAGEMENT

The School of Design at Otago Polytechnic is opening its postgraduate suite of design courses (Post Graduate Diploma, Honours and Masters) in Auckland, to be held at the already existing Otago Polytechnic Campus on Queen Street.

Both domestic and international students are welcome to enrol. The programmes will be taught across both the Dunedin and Auckland campuses concurrently, sharing some lectures and resources. As the design programme is crossdisciplinary, the design studios at the Auckland Campus will initially focus on two areas—

accessory design and fashion communication.

According to Professor of Fashion, Dr Margo Barton, who leads the Auckland offerings of the programmes, important partnerships with the industry will assist students in gaining real-life experience and valuable practice. “Many industry notables are already indicating their interest in being a part of the programme,” Barton said.

“Another highlight is the international links and projects that will initially expand on our already established collaborations in Asia and with the emerging market of South America.

We have many international fashion professionals and academics who are also enthusiastic about being involved as mentors, lecturers and collaborators on the courses.” The programmes are aimed at students with design, art and any creative qualifications, as well as working designers and creatives who would like to expand their design engagement and add an edge to their portfolio. Barton is extremely excited to be at the helm of this new venture. Her area of expertise and design practice, including her PhD, is in accessory design, millinery and new technologies. As a long-term executive board member of the iD Dunedin Fashion Week and iD International Designer Awards, and being the creative director of the Otago Polytechnic annual show Collections, Barton is also well-versed in fashion communication, including international fashion communication projects, fashion exhibitions, fashion events and awards.

MI PIACI ADDS EXCLUSIVE JEWELLERY LINE

Mi Piaci at its core is designed by and for women, and naturally gravitates towards others who do the same. After they discovered Annika Inez’s jewellery line By Boe in New York, it resonated with the team. The new ‘By Boe’ collection is exclusively available at Mi Piaci and was heavily influenced by music. “Music is a big part of my life and artists and music that I’m into often inspire me,” explained Inez. Recently she has been inspired by the British artist Benjamin Clementine and a fictional eclectic girlfriend that she dreamt up for him. Grown up in Sweden, her Scandinavian heritage is another influence on her designs and minimalist aesthetic.

SOCIAL CAMPAIGN FEATURES ‘REAL’ PEOPLE

To celebrate real people during fashion week, HANRO set out to find six trendsetting New Yorkers with the help of former America’s Next Top Model judge and photographer, Nigel Barker. The #HanroStreetStyleProject had an open casting call during New York Fashion Week, the finalists were selected by Barker and met with them at New York’s Meatpacking District to get a sense of their individual style. This is the brand’s first social media campaign and features a waitress/bartender, an artist, a law student/ blogger, a corporate communications consultant, an event producer and a swimwear designer. “We saw this campaign as a great chance to really tap into the vibrant energy and tremendous creativity of our customers and our online community,” explained HANRO’s US President, Jan Snodgrass.

The winners featured in the campaign wore current and forward season pieces as well as accessories from their own closet to make the look truly their own. Each winner received a $500 HANRO gift card, as well as the privilege of being photographed by Barker.

FASHION GIANT COLLABORATES WITH REYNOLDS

Karen Walker’s latest collection is a tribute to poet Federico García Lorca by Walker in collaboration with artist John Reynolds.

In the new resort collection titled ‘Mujer’, Reynolds has interpreted motifs from García Lorca’s poetry and illustrated them across two models faces. The physical range is available worldwide and features whimsical prints, tight geometric lozenges and ‘a modernist take on camouflage’.

SEE US at the International Sourcing Expo, 15-17th November 2016, Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre

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SPECS IN THE CITY

Specsavers has announced actress Kim Cattrall will visit New Zealand during October to launch this year’s Spectacle Wearer of the Year competition presented

by Specsavers. No stranger to making a bold fashion statement, Kim will take up the role of star judge and ambassador for the Specsavers competition. While in NZ, she will be on the look out for someone who stands out from the crowd with the prize being a trip for two to New York and the opportunity to meet Kim herself.

KIT AND ACE POPS UP

Known for its revolutionary fabric of technical cashmere, brand Kit and Ace has opened up a pop-up store in Auckland’s trendy fashion precinct of Britomart. The brand designs clothing for all the athletes at heart that want to look the part as well as sweat it out. Kit and Ace brings the comfort and performance of gym clothes to street clothes so the wearer doesn’t have to sacrifice functionality for style.

Originating from the founders of Lululemon, Chip, Shannon and JJ Wilson have developed the Kit and Ace brand in Vancouver, Canada. Since launching nearly two years ago, the brand has opened 70 stores globally. The pop-up will be there until March next year.

CHARLES PARSONS LAUNCHES INNOVATION FUND

Australia’s largest independent textile and fashion business, Charles Parsons, has announced the launch of a new proprietary innovation fund. It is targeted at young talented individuals who are involved in textile-related businesses and who are now ready to move to the next phase of their growth with CP Ventures. “We would like to connect the incredible internal talent within our organisation with external entrepreneurs, to enable cross-pollination. We believe new CP Venture partners will benefit from our wealth of experience, global networks and, where necessary, direct financial investment, to enable challenges and exciting joint enterprise,” said Charles Parsons, Group Managing Director. Successful applicants will be offered unparalleled access to the Charles Parsons business divisions. This includes; homewares, garments, drapery and upholstery fabrics, garment components and textiles from manufacturing to finished products. At a time when the industry is looking for leadership to maintain global competitiveness, CP Ventures was created to provide more opportunities, drive innovation and heighten value in the broader Australasian textile community. Applications are open to all private businesses who have some relationship to the textile or clothing industry with a view to partnership. For more information or to apply visit www.charlesparsons.com.

YU MEI

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TOP MODEL JOINS REEBOK Style icon and fitness advocate Gigi Hadid has joined Reebok’s community of inspiring women as the newest face of the brand’s #PerfectNever movement, a powerful and inspirational call to action that asks women around the world to celebrate the beauty of imperfection and champions Reebok’s intrinsic message of selfbetterment. Together, Hadid and Reebok will challenge women to use physical fitness as an escape to drown out all of the negativity that surrounds them by deploying the three-point principles of the Reebok delta that puts forth the social, physical and mental benefits of fitness. Reebok’s partnership with Hadid marks the second phase in the #PerfectNever movement’s chapter. July this year saw its debut, led by a powerful campaign video featuring athlete Ronda Rousey.

Wellington-based leather label, Yu Mei was born in March 2015 and quickly gained a reputation for creating functional, luxurious products that exude quality. Designer Jessie Wong made waves in the industry quite early in her career after she picked up an AMP scholarship and secured a nationwide distribution for her collection after showcasing her work at Shanghai Fashion Week in 2014. Wong said the brand’s goal is to create luxury items, built for purpose, with a down-to-earth feel. “Yu Mei bags are all about a balance between simplicity and complexity - a presentation of understated luxury,” said Wong.

Yu Mei showcased their fourth collection, Fine China, at New Zealand Fashion Week this year.

During this, Jessie and Production Manager, Adrian, demonstrated how their best-selling ‘Braidy’ is handmade from hide to bag. The Fine China collection was inspired by Wong’s recent trip to Hong Kong where she was searching for hardware suppliers. She was intrigued by the hot smoky markets and found herself instantly inspired by the chaos as well as the juxtaposition of the low interwoven markets framed by

the tall solid buildings. “I’ve been there before, but it’s always a bizarre sight, the ultimate in luxury - highend designer handbags are completely appropriated and placed into the context of Asian markets where the hawkers yell and barter with you to sell something that is so stolen,” Wong explained. Wong found the city itself was an assault to the senses. “The markets are surrounded by tall, crowded buildings that have been painted bright colours years ago, weathered down in the humidity but still display hints of opulence of bygone decades. I loved it,” she added. Fine China is Wong’s reaction to the fake luxe bag phenomenon, taking all of the vibrant colours and chaos and distilling it back into the high-end, handcrafted materials from which they originated.

The 24-piece collection is made of handmade deer nappa and introduces a new colour-way ‘Rome’; a brick-like scarlet. Fine China also includes smaller pieces, and other pieces feature a more relaxed casual style. Each Yu Mei bag is carefully made in their Wellington studio, ensuring that each design will weather the journey with its owner.

NEW LINGERIE SOLUTIONS LINE PERFECT SOCKS FOR FEET

Perfect Socks is a family business that was started in Auckland in 2011 by a keen golfer who couldn’t find a natural yarn golf sock, so she decided to make her own.

After experimenting on the best yarn to use, they decided on a unique Merino/Cashmere mix made especially for them. The Merino gives strength and the Cashmere provides softness. They have designed a sock perfect for all sports with features designed to enhance performance such as arch support, cushioned soles and extra fine toe seams. The brand also makes the most comfortable work or gumboot sock you will find, all of which are perfect to keep your feet warm, dry and comfortable all day. With the latest machines from Italy, Perfect Socks can also make your school, sports or fashion socks. They do not have minimums and have short lead times. Do your customers’ feet a favour and check out the styles and colours already available or contact them for customised options at www.perfectsocks.co.nz.

Creative director Heidi Klum has announced the launch of a lingerie solutions collection to complement her already successful eponymous brand, Heidi Klum Intimates. Heidi Klum Intimates Solutions features an array of essential wardrobe and red-carpet-ready products from dressing tape and lingerie wash bags to strapless, backless stick on silicone bras.

The brand sets a new standard in the category by fusing the fashion and cosmetics industries with a fresh and modern approach to brand positioning and packaging. Klum’s credentials as a host and executive producer of Project Runway and Germany’s Next Top Model, in addition to an illustrious career as a supermodel and red carpet regular provide her with unrivalled experience to enter the Solutions category.

“I’m thrilled to launch my Heidi Klum Intimates Solutions line. I’ve spent my entire career modelling and walking the red carpet, so I know all the secret tricks and tips needed to help people feel confident and fabulous no matter what the cut, shape or length of the outfit,” said Klum. For sales enquiries contact Kirstin Sweeney, kirstin.sweeney@bendon.com.

AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF FASHION

The illustrious alumni of the College of Creative Arts are taking the fashion world by storm. With six students and graduates at New Zealand Fashion Week, and others winning national and international awards, Massey is proving to be a launch pad for some of New Zealand fashion’s hottest new designers.

In August, Massey’s top three fashion design graduates from 2015 showcased their work at NZFW’s inaugural Graduate Show.

Collections by Sarah Parker, Grace Redgrave and Megan Stewart featured digital printing, colour and non-conventional silhouettes, innovative cutting methods and

ELEGANCE IN MUSIC

Established in Stockholm, Sudio Sweden produces elegant wireless earphones that customers can feel proud to wear, thanks to their studio quality sound and minimalistic design.

The brand’s newest addition are the top-of-the-line wireless earphones Sudio Vasa Blå, featuring cutting edge Bluetooth 4.1 technology with multipairing capabilities.

This innovation is the ultimate wireless device, boasting up to eight hours of unlimited playtime with unique standby for up to ten days.

Besides its unique design, Vasa Blå delivers superior studio quality sound and noise isolation due to a carefully-

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tuned driver and amplifier.

Also included in the company’s product range are Sudio TVA, extremely lightweight earphones that are comfortable to wear and suit all kinds of smartphones and tablets.

There’s an interesting anecdote behind the name Sudio. It started when one of the company’s founders spotted the musician Phil Collins in New York having problems with his headphones. “Trust me, I know the

a menswear range made with minimal waste.

In an industry that is notoriously difficult to break into, Fashion Week represents an incredible opportunity for emerging designers to profile their work in front of key industry players and international media buyers.

NZFW’s Miromoda Show also included three Massey alumni.

Student Pania Tucker, winner of the Miromoda Emerging Designer award and the AG Park award, follows hot on the heels of Massey graduate, Steve Hall, who took out the award in 2015. Pania’s collection Alpine Stress showed alongside that of student Len Houkamau, and 2015 graduate Alana Cooper.

Earlier in the year final year student Yoshino Maruyama, crossed the world to Delhi where she won joint top honours in a collaborative

feeling,” he told Collins as they shared eye contact. The name is, in fact, an homage to Collins song Sussudio.

Sudio’s earphones are small music studios that fit perfectly into ears.

Also, Sudio Vasa Blå’s packaging comes with the earphones, an exquisite leather pouch, charging cable and a metal clip. It also has a fullfeature three-button remote and mic, as well as four pairs of sleeves with different sizes.

Our readers are in for a treat—use the discount code APPARELMAGAZINE on www. sudiosweden.com/nz to get a 15% discount on your purchase.

project Runway to New Zealand, for tertiary fashion design students from New Zealand and India.

Sponsored by Education New Zealand, the project offered creative and collborate pathways for both cultures.

Yoshino says that the collaborative experience changed her as a designer, opening her up to the abundance of resources available.

“I am now much more willing to look for resources, contact people, not just settle for what I can get my hands on. I feel much more confident to work with other people and across countries.”

See more emerging talent from Massey’s prestigious fashion programme at the Exposure Massey Fashion Show, 12 November (tickets available on Eventfinda midOctober) or visit creative.massey. ac.nz.

AFFORDABLE HIGH-END ECOMMERCE

Moustache Republic is a new website design and development company focused on creating stunning eCommerce websites. Like most good entrepreneurial stories, it all started with a laptop, a lofty goal, and a broke IT student. In 2009, Tony Hou launched his first online shop selling shoes. He designed the website, built the eCommerce platform from scratch, imported the shoes, marketed on Google and social media,

and started to get sales. He was hooked. “I found the eCommerce world endlessly fascinating. I realised there was nothing else I wanted to do. eCommerce became my thing,” said Hou. Five years later, Hou opened an eCommerce agency for fashion and lifestyle brands. “When you think fashion, you think style, sophistication, innovation...

But many fashion and lifestyle websites were clunky, slow, and dated. I embarked on a mission to help these brands create an online presence that matched their unique design philosophy and identity,” explained Hou. Moustache Republic has now partnered with Shopify and BigCommerce to make functional and impactful eCommerce websites available to businesses of all sizes, including start-ups. “Now everyone can afford a stylish online storefront.” For more information visit www.moustacherepublic.com.

SUSTAINABLE MENSWEAR FUTURE REQUIRES TEAMWORK

Wholesalers and retailers are increasingly aware that supporting each other has become critical for the future of the clothing industry in New Zealand. In fact, the key to further success hinges on the importance of a sustainable supply chain according to Lichfield managing director Geoff Alcock. He said this sustainability is now front of mind for the forward thinking members of the industry. “The future is in retailer and supplier teaming together and growing together as the market accelerates.

We have seen independent suppliers and retailers growing over the last few years and new stores popping up proving they have ability to develop the industry even further. It is certainly clear that there is no future in always chasing the bottom dollar category because our industry strength lies in offering quality and profitable merchandise,” Alcock added. He believes the new players in the retail and supply sector of menswear have recognized that being selective and meeting a market is where consumers were happy to pay the price for a quality garment. “At Lichfield, we are now strongly focused on our retailers’ needs and are now working closely with them as team players in the menswear market.”

SEMINAR PROGRAM ANNOUNCED

As the leading Australian sourcing platform for the footwear and leather industries, the inaugural Footwear and Leather Show is on at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre from 15-17 November, showcasing myriad of manufacturers, suppliers and distributors with a range of unique capabilities and exciting product. “The Footwear and Leather Expo Australia offers and unparalleled opportunity for visitors to shop around and connect with some of the best operators the world has to offer while discovering first-hand the new trends in footwear and manufacturing,” said Julie Hold, exhibition director. The Footwear and Leather Show will be supported by a comprehensive seminar series that will feature some of the world’s most respected industry professionals examining the big issues and changes in international sourcing and global trends.

The list includes Milou Ket, internationally renowned designer and stylist; Tony Bannister, director of Scout; Mike Bellamy, director of China Sourcing Information Centre; and Elizabeth Formosa, founder of Fashion Equipped, among many other names.

The Footwear and Leather Show Australia will be co-located with the International Sourcing Expo Australia and the China Clothing and Textiles Expo. This established platform offers a major opportunity for exhibitors to connect with sourcing professionals and trade buyers from across Australia, New Zealand and beyond. For more information visit www.footwearleathershow.com.au.

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MAC LAUNCHES INTERACTIVE BEAUTY APP MAC Cosmetics has launched a new app called MAC Technique. In the app, users are able to save favourite looks in their library, view trending beauty looks from their favourite celebrities or backstage at fashion weeks around the globe and book a class. New pages are unlocked as you add unique codes from your workshops and classes. In your classes, you can save personalised notes and images for each step of the look as well as uploading a selfie of the user’s ‘Final Look’ with the MAC Technique template. This will automatically save to your gallery.

MAC encourages users to save selfies during the process so they can remember where each product is placed in each look. You can also expand your searching field for classes from 1km to 100km. Each MAC Technique customer will receive a complimentary free MAC makeup bag during their class.

TOPSHOP BEAUTY LIMITED EDITION MAKEUP LINE LAUNCHES GEL NAILS IN TRIBUTE TO SELENA With the demand of high-shine and long-wear nails on the rise, more and more consumers want to achieve this in the comfort of their own home. TOPSHOP Beauty has launched 12 high-impact colours with an effortless three-step process that is quick, simple and effective without using professional equipment or a UV light. The new Gel Nails Collection includes a Prime Base Coat, 12 trending colours and a Shine Top Coat. Formulated with Shellac resin and Volcanic Glass for a flawless, professional look for a 10-day wear. It is also infused with Nonychosine F to strengthen and repair your nails.

MAC Cosmetics has launched a new collection in tribute to Selena Quintanilla-Pérez. Selena was an American singer, songwriter, actress and fashion designer who tragically died in 1995. “She was a person who could pull off just about anything she wore. She believed that as long as you carried yourself well, you will always have a presence,” Selena’s sister Suzette Quintanilla Arriaga said. The two had always been extremely close up until her untimely death. “We had a special bond that only sisters do,” she added.

The idea blossomed from a petition online created by

Patty Rodriguez around the Fiesta de La Flor, which is a two-day festival that celebrates the life of Selena.

Suzette believes the collection is what Selena would have wanted if she were still here today. “I will try and continue to dream for her, as I’m sure she would do for me,” she explained. The collection is based on the makeup Selena owned and was matched to the exact hues she wore and loved. The collection includes four eye shadows, three lipsticks, a liquid eye liner, a mascara, two techno cumbias and a brush.

ALEXANDER WANG MEETS TRILOGY Iconic fashion designer Alexander Wang collaborated with Trilogy during Paris Fashion Week this year. In the Paris-based showroom, Trilogy will provide packs for over 1,500 international visitors and clients from Europe, the Middle East, Russia and Asia who are viewing Wang’s latest collection. The pack includes a Make-Up Be Gone Cleansing Balm, a Hydrating Mist Toner and

an Everything Balm. One of the sales team from Alexander Wang contacted Trilogy directly through their website with an invitation to collaborate. “As a New Zealand brand, we were blown away to be recognised by such an acclaimed international fashion label. It caused huge excitement in the office – there are lots of Alexander Wang fans here!

Needless to say, we’re honoured to be associated with the Alexander Wang brand and it’s a great opportunity to share our beautiful natural skincare with a new audience,” said Lisa Wilson, Trilogy’s International Communications Manager.

BOHEMIAN SKIN Bohemian Skin is one of the few natural skincare products to really care. It’s 100 percent natural with no nasty hidden ingredients, and is suitable for women to use throughout their life, even during pregnancy.

Morgan Littler fell pregnant in early 2015 and found it was near impossible to find natural skincare products that you could use whilst pregnant. For someone who also struggled through her teenage years with acne, she searched high and low for a miracle product that was safe as well as effective.

Littler began to search through her pantry and fridge for ingredients to create her own natural remedies for very basic natural skincare. It was then her husband, and now co-founder, suggested that she create her own line of tailored skincare products for women to use no matter what stage of their life they are at.

The current Bohemian Skin range includes a Gel Cleanser, Purifying Toner, Facial Moisturiser and Spot Assist. There is also a Facial Mask to be added to the collection by the end of this year. For more information visit www.bohemianskin.com.au.

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IT’S ONLY ROCK’N’ROLL

ANOTHER GIANT HITS OUR SHORES

Giant fashion brands like H&M and Zara have just landed in New Zealand, and more are about to follow suit. Established 40 years ago and currently accounting for 75 stores in Australia, Australian menswear brand Politix is now looking to cross the ditch. Owned by the owner of David Jones, Woolworths Holdings, Politix has just announced its expansion plans. According to rumours, the move won’t be immediate, and it’s not clear whether the company will open new standalone stores or concession stores within David Jones.

MAKING MASCULINITY GREAT AGAIN

VK Nagrani’s new Soho store is a luxurious ‘boys club’ for industry titans who are looking for suede garments and $1,000 Vicuna socks. All (rich) men are created equal, and celebrities aren’t given special treatment. If customers choose to pay using their American Express ‘Centurion’ black card, which requires a $250,000 minimum annual spend, they automatically donate additional $250 to a cause of their choice.

Owner and founder Vivek “VK” Nagrani said his store aims to revive a seasonless, masculine, unique way of thinking about clothing. “We have totally lost that sense of masculinity. Have we become a world that finds satisfaction in buying shit out of a box? No wonder people are so lonely.”

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Stella McCartney is venturing into menswear with a collection that nods to British musical history, 15 years after she launched her women’s fashion line, currently sold in 77 countries at 852 locations. Having always had a taste for men’s styling since she was young, thanks in part to her parents Paul and Linda McCartney. “I was obsessed with tailoring because I had grown up with my dad’s Beatles suits and wardrobe.”

Her first full ready-to-wear men’s line, to be unveiled next month and 50 percent organic and sustainable, includes accessories like bags, shoes, hats and sunglasses. With this new collection, which she described as a journey through inspirations that have been in her life, McCartney delivers a casual, sexy romp through the chronology of British music subcultures.

From Teddy Boy suits to multiple references to Britpop, to light blue collarless cotton tunics, the new line reveals personal homages to her father Paul and Britain at large. To be more precise, McCartney has made custom men’s pieces before, namely shoes for Morrissey and a suit for David Bowie. The new men’s line will be incorporated into the women’s resort presentation in London on November 10 and available to purchase the following month.

MODERN EXPLORERS

According to Sarah Burton, creative director of Alexander McQueen, the British fashion house’s highly wearable autumn/winter 2016 men’s collection is inspired by Charles Darwin and his fascination with exploration. “There’s a romanticism to the new pieces; I wanted them to have a beauty to them, similar to what I’d put into the womenswear collection,” Burton said. “This comes through particularly in the sequin embroidery seen on some of the men’s coats, and with the jewellery, we’ve taken the ideas of talismans and precious treasures and interpreted them in a very McQueen way.” Despite the historical references, the brand aimed to create ‘desirable pieces’ that can be worn today.

STYLISH WITH A TWIST

As part of its Lacoste Live line, the iconic brand has partnered with British style scene favourites Agi & Sam for a new 15-item capsule collection. Inspired as much by Russian modernism as the Lacoste sporting DNA, the designers used René Lacoste’s hand-drawn red, white and blue stripe pattern across a whole host of menswear pieces.

Other elements reflect Agi & Sam’s signature aesthetic, such as the proliferation of deep pockets.

ASIANS AND YUMMIES LEAD THE WAY With a market size of $570 billion, the menswear category is expecting to grow at a constant rate of 2-3 percent a year, a new report by data and insights company Fashionbi has revealed. The consumer spending is also increasing, with an 18 percent jump in purchases over the past five years—which proves that men of all demographics are increasingly becoming fashion-conscious. The research shows that menswear has overtaken women’s wear in terms of global growth: in 2015, it grew by 1.9 percent to $29 billion, whereas womenswear saw a 1.6 percent increase.

There is a growing trend towards more high-end durable fashion items, as well as gender-neutral pieces. While the market continues to cater to men’s needs with formal and casual wear, the industry has welcomed a growing number of informed and trend-

conscious male consumers, especially in emerging markets like Japan, China and South Korea. “Statistics show that Asian men are growing in terms of personality, income/social status, fashion-consciousness and knowledge of the available goods,” said Ambika Zutshi, CEO of Fashionbi.

Meanwhile, so-called ‘yummies’ (young urban professional men) are also influencing the market by embracing digital and e-commerce, which has increased by 127 percent. Lastly, the menswear market has also been influenced by performance wear and consumers’ interest in functional, well-designed garments that suit an active lifestyle. Tailoring and sportswear can live together in fresh harmony. As a proof of this, last year Italian brand Ermenegildo Zegna brought its Zegna Sport line and the Z Zegna Collection together.

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I 13

NEW STORE FILLS GAP IN MARKET

NEW ONLINE VENTURE

Ziera have opened their 22nd store this month at Eastridge shopping centre in East Auckland. Ziera’s Chief Executive of Customer Experience, Nicky Dunn said it was the perfect location for them as it is a busy mall and a hub for their eastern bays customers where they felt they had a gap in their coverage. The fit-out of the Eastridge store was completed through their internal property team with Hot Foot providing the new visual merchandising layout. Inside the store, the new Spring/Summer collection is featured and highlights a palette of muted nudes, tans and soft metallic. This allows the footwear to blend easily into the consumers current wardrobe while adding a touch of style as well. “The collection has something for everyone, with a variety of sandals, loafers, ballet flats, heels and Spring booties, all designed with Ziera’s uniquely contoured foot beds to offer superior comfort,” explained Dunn. Their ideal customer is someone who places importance on style, but also recognises the need for comfort. Already heading into summer, popular colours from the new season include Raspberry and Paprika.

Ziera is also celebrating their 70th birthday this year and is a third generation New Zealand family-owned business.

Tamara Mellon has celebrated the launch of her new online shoe venture with a brunch at her art-filled home in LA, amid works by Warhol, Rothko and Kline.

Mellon relocated to Beverly Hills a few months ago with fiancé Michael Ovitz, and relaunched her line as a direct-to-consumer e-commerce business after her traditional wholesale brand had gone bankrupt. “Tech eventually is going to eat every industry if you don’t adapt and change, and that’s what I’m doing with this business. I’m setting this up for the next 20 years,” she said. While they are now distributed and sold online to meet customer demand, her shoes are still Italian-made the old-fashioned way. Her classic ‘Collection’ includes pumps, sandals, flats and boots, ranging from US$325 to US$1,495, with 60 percent of the styles under $500. “We believe every woman should have a 4-inch pump, a pointy flat, a strappy sandal and whatever she damn well pleases.”

GREATS LANDS IN CANADA Brooklyn-based sneaker brand Greats has teamed up with Nordstrom to sell five of its core styles at three Nordstrom stores in Canada. Launched in 2013, the brand started selling online only, but it’s now also available at its Brooklyn store thanks to a partnership with Steven Alan. According to Greats co-founder Ryan Babenzien, the

new partnership with Nordstrom doesn’t mark a change in strategy or plan. “When we wholesale with someone we look for the best in class,“ he said, adding that another standalone store is also in the pipeline. “We think this is the right mix to continue to grow the brand and acquire customers.”

For all your South Island Model and Talent needs, contact NZMT. p. 03 388 8002 e. models@nzmodels.com w. www.nzmodels.com

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17/10/16 4:46 PM

THE RISE OF UGLY SHOES

According to US-based financial information provider Bloomberg, the billion-dollar race for the ugliest shoes is on, with fashion brands of all sorts fearlessly showcasing their weirdest creations.

Ugg and Teva, both owned by Deckers, have just unveiled a crossbred sandal-boot invention, available in a sandal-like style or a high-top version, and both sold under the tagline ‘Suspend Your Disbelief’. So far, the strategy has been successful in the US, where Ugg reported $1.5 billion in annual revenue and Crocs—another ugly classic—$1.1 billion.

Why? According to clinical psychologist Jennifer Baumgartner, shoppers might be willing to try weird shoes because there’s now less social pressure focused on their feet. In other words, it’s freedom all the way.

LOAFER CRAZE

Loafer sales are up in the wake of Alessandro Michele’s commercial success at Gucci. Fuelled by Seventies’ nostalgia, Michele’s vision is all about heavyhanded embellishment and gargantuan eyewear. This has sparked a renewed interested in Gucci’s accessories such as the brand’s seminal shoe—the loafer. First introduced by Gucci in 1953, and adapted for women two years later, the loafer has been reinterpreted by Michele in a variety of ways, prompting high-end labels to capitalise on the moment and release their own styles. As a result, a new shoe category is born; and retailers are seeing their loafer sales skyrocket. According to analysts, the new loafer craze could rival the ballerina flat’s success. Besides Gucci loafers, retailing from US$595 up to US$1,100, loafers by Chanel, Prada, The Row and Tod’s are also selling fast. The wave has positively affected sales across the whole price point spectrum, allowing lower-end labels to jump on the bandwagon.

EMOJI-OBSESSED

Luxury shoes and accessories designer Charlotte Olympia Dellal is well-known for her distinctive Kitty flats that keep with the brand’s playful design philosophy. Handcrafted in Italy with the finest materials, Charlotte Olympia’s kitty flats are now back with a new look that’s also emoji-obsessed.

The Emoticats—#lolkitty, #cheekykitty, and #flirtykitty—wink, smile and stick their tongues out, all for $525 a pair.

ROCKS AND WRAPS

Dutch footwear label United Nude has now partnered with Japanese fashion label Issey Miyake to create two new designs, a wrapped leather shoe (called ‘Wrap’) and a fragmented platform sandal wooden sole (‘Rock’), which debuted at the fashion brand’s spring/ summer 2017 collection show in Paris. The Rock shoe is inspired by the traditional Japanese platform sandals, with feet being secured into the curved wooden sole using adjustable leather straps. The shape of the sole suggests that the shoe has been cut from a piece of rock, hence the name. The design comes in six colours; white, black, pink, beige, yellow and green.

As for the Wrap shoe, it features an upper made from a single piece of silver, white or black leather. It will be available either as a flat shoe or with a small heel, either covered in leather or a mirrored finish. Launched 13 years ago with the radical Mobius shoe and known as one of the first brands to sell 3D-printed footwear, United Nude has previously worked with leading architects including Zaha Hadid and Ben van Berkel.

PERFECT SOCKS MADE IN NZ

The Perfect combination of Merino and Cashmere The ultimate in comfort and softness, sports & work.

www.perfectsocks.co.nz

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I 15

Shine Bright FROM DAY TO NIGHT

What do Leonardo da Vinci, King Tut and Michael Jackson all have in common?

Sequins. Three key elements of the sequin’s history lies among these three icons. For instance, somewhere between 1480 and 1482, da Vinci made a couple drawings to build a machine that would, like a hole punch, cut small disks from a sheet of metal.

Despite this, the machine was never made and therefore we do not know if his purpose was for business or pleasure.

Before da Vinci, there was Tutankhamun or more commonly known as King Tut from 1341B.C.–1323 B.C. His tomb was discovered in 1922 with gold sequin-like disks which were found sewn into royal garments. For the average Joe, sequined clothing also doubled as a way of protecting one’s valuables. Coins were kept close to the body and in most cases were attached to clothing for safekeeping. For others, wearing sequins meant the glaring sheen warded off evil spirits.

The word ‘sequin’ originated from the Arabic word ‘sikka’ which means ‘coin’ and has always referenced wealth and status in its presence. Venice produced gold coins called zecchino in the 13th century and for centuries, variations of sikka and zecchino

Diesel Resene Bastille

16 I October 2016

Gucci Resene Alluring

were used in Europe and in the Middle East. However, in the UK they were called spangles, not sequins.

Modern sequins worn today are the result of women of court during the 17th century, this included nobles and those who had achieved a certain level of wealth.

Sequins first peaked in the 1920’s, where popular flapper dresses were weighed down by thousands of metal sequins. The trend grew exponentially again after the discovery of King Tut’s tomb.

Inspiration drawn from Italian art and antiques flowed through Gucci’s collection for Fall 2016 RTW. Since taking over as creative director just 12 months ago, Alessandro Michele certainly has made his mark and is now the most-copied fashion creative on earth thanks to his fur-lined loafer designed last Fall. Giant suede wedges featured throughout the collection matched with a kimono-inspired sequinned below-the-knee dress in colours like Resene Alluring.

As sequins moved into the 1930’s, electroplate gelatin produced a light-weight version of the sequins. Unfortunately, the colour was lead-based and the gelatin sequins were difficult to work with let alone wear. For example, they would begin to melt if they got too warm or wet. The gelatin sequins found its way into recipe books and are

Nina Ricci Resene Awol

Vêtements Resene Breathless

Colours available from

Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363 still popular to this day for decorating cakes and other baking.

Herbert Lieberman realised the gelatin sequins were no good and decided to give it go using acetate which is a type of plastic material used in film stock. The acetate sequins shined and reflected light beautifully, but were extremely fragile.

Later in 1952, Mylar was invented by DuPont and Lieberman became the largest sequin producer which is now based in Floirda. Algy Trimmings Co introduced a transparent polyester film and Mylar surrounded the plastic colour sequin therefore protecting it from washing machines.

From solid metals to gelatin to acetate to mylar to vinyl, sequins have continued to develop for thousands of years. Creative director of Diesel Black Gold, Andreas Melbostad was glad to be back in Milan this year for the Fall 2016 Ready-To-Wear show, having previously showed in New York for several years. “There’s definitely a new energy in the city and it seemed the right move for the brand to be closer to an international audience of buyers and press,” said Melbostad. This new energy translated onto the runway with some very sparkly garments. With an already well-established rock ‘n’ roll vibe, Diesel smoothed it over with a more polished and less raw look with sequins adding a glam attitude to the biker jackets, similar in colour to Resene Bastille.

Valentino Resene Bone

Sonia Rykiel Resene Bondi Blue

In 1983, Michael Jackson performed ‘Billie Jean’ and debuted his iconic moonwalk.

It was this same day that he also wore a black sequin jacket paired with his iconic rhinestone glove. An instant milestone in fashion, 47 million viewers tuned in to watch the television special. From his early days in the 80s to his last tour, Jackson can be seen wearing sequins in almost every look in his tours.

Today, sequins are seen everywhere from handbags to t-shirts to Ugg boots. Sequins are here to stay and will be here long after we are all gone. So as the saying goes… if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em.

Vetements designer Demna Gvasalia broke all the fashion rules for his Fall 2016 collection with the collection featuring a sequinned dress similar to Resene Breathless that stood out from the usual hoodies the brand is known for.

The presentation from Sonia Rykiel included garments featuring the brand’s infamous stripes but designer Julie de Libran took a new take on it for this collection using them for cutting a compact knit and high-waisted flairs. And for the evening looks where stripes are rarely seen, a blue sequinned pant suit in a colour similar to Resene Bondi Blue appeared on the runway giving the collection a very snazzy, dressed-up feel.

Vera Wang Resene Good As Gold

Moschino Resene Colour Me Pink

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I 17

MEGHANN HEMMINGS COLLECTIVE DESIGN

Andrea Caughey was born and raised in Gore, only leaving at age seventeen to study as a nurse in Otago. Twelve years on, after living in Wanaka and Cadrona, she would return with her husband to renovate houses, spending the next few years in the home decorating retail industry.

Upon her return, locals commented on her deep love of shoes, encouraging her to follow her passion for footwear and fashion.

Coincidentally, as she mused on this, the Caugheys came into possession of an empty motorbike store in desperate need of some TLC. Overnight, the concept for Collective Designs was born.

In the seven months between conception and opening, Caughey worked hard to transform the greasy motorbike shop into a women’s fashion outlet. Local builders and tradies were employed to help with the project, furthering aiding Collective Design’s Gore-centric image. Gore business Brian Mahon Engineering was the one to design and make all of Collective Design’s shelving and racks, for instance. However, it was mainly a family effort in terms of the elbow grease, as Caughey revealed.

“We did most of the decorating ourselves, along with the help of my parents and sister.”

Indeed, Collective Design is certainly a family enterprise. Caughey now works in the store part-time with her sister Nadine – both committed to sourcing and featuring great local designers.

Collective Design’s clothing label, for instance, is designed and sewn by Gore local Mandy Cleland. In the store, other local brands on sale include Damselfish Jewellery, The Merino Locker, and Sutherland Clothing.

But the store isn’t just restricted to clothing and jewellery – it is also proud to showcase artwork by award-winning local artist Margaret Palmer McKenzie.

Caughey also cites local support as a massive boost for the business, which is currently looking at expanding online, and further utilising Facebook as a marketing tool. “The feedback has been awesome,” she said. “GoRetail is led by some very inspiring people, local businesses supporting local businesses.” In the future, Collective Design hopes to keep improving and provide a warm and friendly shopping experience for all who enter the store.

PETRA BENTON

Petra Benton aims to bring something a little new to the New Zealand’s fashion industry, an unapologetically feminist effort to encourage women to find their strength.

“Women are so incredible when they are confident and truly comfortable in themselves, they are unstoppable,” Benton said.

She cites strong women, such as her mother, as her biggest inspiration. Her mother, a property developer, homemade much of Benton’s clothes growing up and accordingly, passed her passion for design and intuitive eye onto her daughter. Benton recalls being taught how to make skirt patterns at a young age, and painstakingly sewing her own Halloween costumes with her mother’s encouragement. “I owe her a lot,” she said.

She pursued this passion by studying design at AUT, learning pattern-making, construction, and many more advanced skills that have taken her designs to the next level. She believes her formal education lends her garments greater integrity and

18 I October 2016

Not having to wear school uniform helped cultivate fashion designer Meghann Hemmings’ personal sense of style. She enjoyed seeing how other students created their individual looks. One of her friends would rip chains off of toilet doors for necklaces, which was perhaps more subversive then. “I did the whole super low slung jean look, like Christina Aguilera in Dirty, paired with a tank top and pointy kitten heels,” said Hemmings.

The designer’s earliest memory of fashion was being in tears after receiving a pink, tassled poncho when she was 13. The first thing she ever made was a dress for her school ball, with her mother’s help. “It was an awful dress in $3/m satin,” said Hemmings. Studying Fashion Honours at AUT when she was older, the designer spent her last two years working with leather, particularly Ostrich. She loves drape and leather, and would love to work with it more. This creativity isn’t only limited to Hemmings, as her brother Gareth launched Beach Brains.

Hemmings is the sole designer and outsources production locally.

Her cousin Ellie Hemmings is the graphic designer and branding genius, Gareth is the photographer, and Kirsty Mclay is the pattern maker. “I adore women and would love if we could all embrace our unique shapes,” Hemmings said. “To ooze sensuality even in the mundane of the everyday.” Fair trade is of vital importance to the fashion designer. She is inspired by many aspects of life, from the women around her to New Zealand’s natural beauty, to going swimming, or just having a quiet night with a good book on midcentury modernism and a bottle of wine.

In the future, steady growth is the plan. Retail options will come with time, although online is a great way for her to reduce overheads and keep the clothes affordable for the moment. Aspirations to be stocked in the United States are driven by Hemmings’ love for California. At some point in the future, the designer wants to open her own store close to the beach and enjoy being part of a community.

honesty, which are two fundamental values in Benton’s designs. “Knowledge is freedom. You have to know the rules before you can break them.”

Another key influence is Benton’s parents’ background in property development. Growing up in such a creative and industrious business imbued her with a love of all things to do with product design and architecture. “From very literally growing up on building sites!” she laughed.

Accordingly, she loves every aspect of the design process.

Today, Benton works on her own to create her products, with a little help from family and friends to ease the scariness of working as a start-up. Her summer collection can be found exclusively online at www.petrabenton. com. As a small new brand, Benton’s focus is on getting her “PB woman” out into the world through developing her garments. Her current products aim to combine comfort and beauty, to motivate and inspire strong women wearing her designs.

She is also seeking to develop the brand in the future to a stage where she can introduce homewear, activewear and begin to work with organisations that support women’s health and growth worldwide. In the meantime, she’s nowhere near short of ideas. “Inspiration is in everything if you look with the right eye.”

F + H JEWELLERY

Sharona Harris is an Australian fashion industry native, previously having worked as the PR manager of the hairdressing company of Australian Fashion Week. Working alongside different designers and celebrities inspired her, in true entrepreneurial spirit, to launch F + H Jewellery. “I could see a gap in the market for a brand that had a modern toughluxe aesthetic,” she said.

Despite not having any formal training, Harris threw herself headfirst into research to create her original designs. As a fast learner and innate problem-solver, she relished the challenge.

Today, she can cite Margot Robbie as a fan, and strong support from Australian stylists and fashion influencers. “But hey, Beyonce would be great!”.

In her products, Harris values originality and simplicity – particularly focusing on the customer service experience.

“Every time I get an email or feedback from a customer, good or bad, it is an opportunity for me to learn something and hopefully then improve my product.”

“Continually trying to improve the quality of my product for my customer is also key.” Harris cited music as her biggest influence in creating her products, particularly fashion trends that reflect different music genres from various eras.

Accordingly, she’s just launched her new collection “Night Fever”, inspired by the decadence of the Studio 54 era. In the promotion campaign, model Eva Downey poses in F + H Jewellery while preparing for a night of dancing at an art déco hotel. At the moment, Harris works on her own, with merely a part-time assistant and a few sales agents to assist her. She maintains the business through her own Shopify e-commerce site – fandhjewellery.com - and a strong retail presence in Australia. Recently, she’s expanded into New Zealand through picking up some key retailers, and is currently in talks with retailers in the UK – to push F + H Jewellery further into the international market.

In the future, she hopes to gain a physical store in her home, Byron Bay. She also has plans to expand into the American market someday soon.

GOOD&CO Scarf designer Lillie Toogood grew up in Wellington in a creative family and has always been fascinated with textiles and accessories.

Toogood studied Graphic Design at Massey, then landed a job working for Karen Walker where she started to learn about the fashion industry. “This was my foot-in-thedoor to the fashion world.”

Selling her own designs began at a young age for Toogood. As a kid she would make necklaces and pencil cases and sell them to her friends at school. At university, she made vinyl bags with images printed on the sides and sold them into shops around New Zealand. Later, she launched a printed clothing brand while she worked for Trelise Cooper.

GOOD&CO started in 2011 in Sydney from a love of photography and textiles, and a

yearning to create something Toogood could enjoy wearing herself. She pulled from her connections made in Sydney while working at Camilla and Marc, and started playing with digital printing on silk and working directly with makers in India.

GOOD&CO scarves are iconic for their quirky yet alluring designs, clever crops and playful twist on luxury accessories. The first collection was picked up by cult Aussie store Incu and since then has been stocked throughout NZ, Australia and internationally in over 60 boutiques including World NZ, Urban Outfitters, Scoop NYC and in international cult store Colette in Paris.

Toogood would like to push her formal skills further and learn more about sewing and pattern making. At the same time, she is continuing to expand GOOD&CO range and stockist base by pushing overseas sales and building her brand in USA and Europe.

REBE

Rebe Burgess isn’t exactly the first person you’d imagine as a stereotypical designer. She studied marine biology at the University of Auckland, with no formal training in the fashion industry.

However, Burgess has a lifelong passion for design and claims that her fascination with the ocean inspires her every choice. She found her love of fashion and creativity at an early age, recalling memories of accompanying her mother on fabric shopping trips. “She would always let me choose a meter of fabric to take home. I would wrap myself up in these pieces of fabric and attempt at making a dress, a skirt, and so on.”

Her mother taught her how to sew. The first item of clothing she ever made was a cream chiffon dress in a high school sewing class. Today, she uses those home-grown skills in designing her hats, which are handcrafted individually by talented Kiwi milliners using the highest-quality materials.

“Nothing beats seeing a customer feel amazing in their hat,” she said. At the moment, Burgess works on her own in designing, managing her online store, sales, and social media. Rebe products are currently stocked online at www.rebesrunway.com/shop, as well as Muse Boutique in Auckland.

Burgess cites her friends, family, and colleagues as both her biggest inspiration and support. With that support, she plans to expand into other accessories in the future, including clothing.

“Clothing would be the ultimate plan, to have a showroom and to take the label internationally.”

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I 19

WEARABLE TECH ON RUNWAY

New Zealand’s Top Fashion Degree*

www.op.ac.nz/fashion Dunedin – Auckland

*As ranked by Business of Fashion businessoffashion.com/education/ rankings/2016

20 I October 2016

Biometric data was gathered through the glasses worn that were powered by the Intel Curie module using three sensors. One of which featured capacitive electroencephalogram (EEG) electrodes to monitor brainwave activity, one to capture and measure heart rate, and the other a microphone to pick up on breathing rates, all of which were able to correlate and give real-time stress levels.

SNAPCHAT FILTERS COME ALIVE

Inspired by the #nofilter hashtag on social media the makeup team for the Desigual runway show at New York Fashion Week applied no more than moisturiser to the models’ faces. However, five of the models had a makeover of a different sort – the Snapchat treatment!

Makeup artists used MAC Cosmetics paint and pigment to recreate the Snapchat filters right on to the models’ faces, while artists attached paper flower crowns and butterflies the models’ heads. Top filters like the dog and tiger filter were included in the looks. From this show, it is clear that the presence of social media in everyday life is rapidly growing.

NZFW 2016. Designer: JPalm. Model: Simone at Clyne. Photographer: Gabrielle Devereux

Wires, cables and black data boxes were the backdrop to luxury brand Chanel’s runway show during Paris Fashion Week with the theme reflecting how consumers today are addicted to technology. Guests were presented with a collection that included blinking handbags, fluorescent rays of colours and iridescent tweeds. A large sign that read ‘Chanel Data Centre’ was displayed at the entrance. A tweed suit that was white on white opened the show complete with a plastic helmet and boots that looked like something off Star Wars. “We all depend on technology,” said designer, Karl Largerfeld. “Imagine your life without the telephone and the next step will be artificial intelligence and robots.” Rows of computer hardware lined the runways that models weaved through. The luxury brand is well known for its striking shows during Paris Fashion Week.

J02709

DECODING CHANEL IN PARIS

Globally, the fashion industry remains one of the slowest when it comes to uptake of digital and technical innovation, especially when it comes to the runways in Europe, that tend to stick with the more conventional shows and ranges. Despite this, Cypriot-British designer Hussein Chalayan has been long experimenting with fashion and the role technology can play. Chalayan has introduced looks that have the ability to change shape with the help of microchips and animatronics, dresses embedded with LED’s to recreate a pixelated screen. “Only with technology can you create new things in fashion. Everything else has been done,” said Chalayan. This year for Paris Fashion Week the tech-minded designer partnered with Intel to bring wearable tech to his spring/ summer fashion week show. Visual projections showcased stress levels of the models as they walked down the runway via biofeedback through the connected accessories they wore.

IMOGEN WILSON

Twenty-three year old, Imogen Wilson grew up in the eastern suburbs of Wellington. Her primary school was near the beach and attended high school until she turned 17 and moved up to Auckland.

Wilson took up photography a year ago and still counts it as a hobby. Wilson jumped into the fashion industry when she was 17 as a stylist for a local modelling agency. She also interned at Lonely Hearts for their PR and marketing where she learned a lot.

Originally, Wilson wanted to be a full time stylist and never thought she would be taking up photography and directing a talent agency. “It’s all about evolving I tell people, don’t get stuck on thinking you have to do one thing forever.

Realistically people our age can and will change occupation a lot, get used to it and it will be much easier to adapt.”

Earlier this year, Wilson produced a shoot that she styled and shot for Nylon Japan and soon after worked with Illegal Civilization from LA on their imagery. “That has been unreal as I am a big fan of Mikey and what he does. Those were the two companies I want to work for this year and they both reached out to me shortly after the new year,” Wilson explained. Launching The Others Agency with Angela Bevan is another project Wilson has under her belt that she is very proud of. “It has been one of the most rewarding and challenging things I have ever done,” she said.

Previously, Wilson was working as just a stylist and although it was fun and had it’s benefits, she began to get less inspired by creating fashion editorials. “I wanted to focus more on culture features and work with the talented people around me. I took some photos of my friend Annabel from Miss June for a Sydney site I worked for, and they turned out cool so I started taking more photos of bands, skaters

and artists around me and it all started from there,” Wilson said.

Wilson is strongly influenced by streetwear and imagery that stems from that. By travelling to different and new locations, she gains inspiration and her some of best ideas. “Casting is the most important part of my work now, so I would say my friends and the kids I cast inspire me the most,” she explained.

When it comes to formal education, Wilson believes it’s all about balance. “I’m highly visual and the most untechnical person ever when it comes to taking photos. I’m in the process of trying to learn more about that side of things, some general knowledge about equipment and lights would be cool.

For styling it’s more about having an eye and working hard. You can learn anything from the people around you, just ask for help and google a bunch.”

Wilson defines her style as laid back and candid in both her styling and photography work. Everything she does has an element of fun or effortless. “Even if I’m styling something more high end or glam it’s still got to have an unpolished feel.”

Outside of her busy work life, Wilson enjoys painting, drawing and creating jewellery. She believes that everything is about timing, marketing and being kind alongside working really, really hard.

“Be organised and don’t become a creative to make money,” she added. Social media is a huge part of the newer generations lives and is no surprise that it impacts not only social but work as well. “A social media like Instagram is highly useful for any visual creative. You can share your work and clients can find you and check out your work easier than ever before.

It helps push isolated creative communities like New Zealand into the palms of big overseas publications and designers, which I think is cool.”

Loren Old believes she’s lucky to have joined BLAK as a brand manager at such an exciting point in its growth. “We recently launched our BLAK Bridesmaids Collection so that has been my major focus for the last few months,” she said. “My best friend is getting married and the bridesmaids will be wearing BLAK, which is pretty special.”

After growing up in a farming community near Morrinsville, Old gained a Bachelor of Communications from AUT, deciding she wanted to work in fashion at a young age. From there, she worked at an international Kiwi women’s fashion label, before joining BLAK two years ago. Now, Old lives in Mount Manganui with her boyfriend and their dog, Ralph. She remembers when her mother used to take her and her sister to Osbourne and Nuffield Street and Old remembers thinking how amazing it was.

As brand manager, Old manages marketing, conceptualises ideas, plans for new seasons and events, as well as managing wholesale customers and sales. “Being a small team we definitely work across all departments, especially in the busy times,” Old

explained. She has sewn a fair amount of buttons on at photo shoots as well. No two days are the same for Old, however, that does mean the job comes with notable successes. She cited hers as the opening of the new BLAKCHAOS store in Ponsonby, the aforementioned BLAK Bridesmaids collection, and even BLAK’s involvement in the annual SPCA cupcake day. Her favourite part of the job is seeing the collections come together, from their conception at the hands of BLAK’s owner and designer Teresa, right to the hands of the customer. “I have really enjoyed learning the process behind the clothes we sell.”

The role has also taught Old a lot, while calling herself “the ultimate list maker”, she said the role has taught her how to be flexible and adaptable on a daily basis.

Old also loves the aspect of working in a femaledominated industry. She praised her colleagues as hard-working women who are successful both in business and mothering. “It’s awesome to be surrounded by this and it’s pretty inspiring.”

LOREN OLD

BRAND MANAGER AT BLAK

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I 21

STEVE DUNSTAN

Born in Christchurch, Steve Dunstan grew up moving around New Zealand from Manawatu to Hawkes Bay but now calls Auckland home.

Dunstan grew up with a passion for skateboarding and snowboarding, and this introduced him to fashion in the early 90s. After finishing high school in Auckland, Dunstan travelled to Queenstown on a Vespa with his skateboard and snowboard. “I had never been there before deciding to move there for the winter. I started following the endless winter and travelled to the US in the NZ summers to pursue my snowboarding career and dream,” he added.

On his journeys, he met many people through the industry and had many great experiences including jumping out of a helicopter for a Sprite TV commercial, jumping moving cars and being in a Japanese feature film.

“In the midst of this carry on the opportunity to start Huffer as a company and brand became real on April 1st, 1997,” he said. He co-founded Huffer with Dan Buckely who is no longer involved with the brand. His passion for snowboarding and skateboarding heavily influenced Huffer’s first collection which was waterproof, breathable outerwear and still has an impact on the brand’s designs today.

Dunstan wanted to create something that gave an identity that represented a way of life. That also had expression, freedom, was slight rebellious, appreciation for environments being urban or outback.

Now, Dunstan is the Brand Director, the majority shareholder and has many other shareholders including an executive director that he works with closely daily.

“I am lucky to be able to be close to new market opportunities for Huffer. It being new retail, Australian wholesale expansion or potential new international distribution opportunities,” he said. He is also responsible for building the brand and developing communities in conjunction with these strategies while maintaining and building a strong brand awareness in

STITCHED UP: in fashion, trade

marks are more than just brand names In fashion, a brand is more than just a name. Many of the best brands are instantly recognisable by the shape, colour, pattern or other signature qualities without you needing to see the label. Just think of the Burberry check or Louboutin’s red soles.

Brand owners know the value of these non-verbal identity markers, and go to a lot of effort to make their items stand out in a crowd. It’s even possible to register these features of your goods as a trade mark, to stop your competitors from using them.

Three recent cases in Australia and New Zealand have demonstrated the challenges and benefits of registering non-traditional trade marks for clothing.

In each case, brand owners sought to register trade marks consisting of designs stitched on the pockets of jeans or pants.

In a 2014 case, the owners of the popular Not Your Daughter’s Jeans (NYDJ) brand sought to register as a trade mark the criss-cross pattern stitched on a panel on the inside of each pair of jeans. The Intellectual Property Office of New Zealand (IPONZ) refused to accept the trade mark application, saying the criss-cross image was not distinctive and that other traders may legitimately want to use it. But on appeal, the High Court agreed with NYDJ’s argument that ‘stitching on jeans is commonly used as, and understood by consumers to be, a mark identifying the origin of the jeans’.

Trade mark owners will often need to provide evidence about the distinctiveness of their nontraditional mark, before the court or the trade mark office will agree to register it. In this case, NYDJ

22 I October 2016

provided good evidence showing that when the criss-cross stitching was applied to jeans, consumers recognised them as being exclusively identified with the NYDJ brand.

The courts and trade mark offices must strike a careful balance. They need to allow brand owners to protect the signs and symbols that consumers associate with their goods, without granting an unfair monopoly that prevents other traders from using the same elements in their own designs.

Last year in Australia the trade marks office refused an application by Ariat International Inc. Ariat, who make riding breeches, wanted to register a trade mark consisting of ‘double-piped pockets’. Piping is when a tubular band of material is used for trimming along edges or seams. The trade marks office found that embellishments on pockets, including piping, are often used by other traders as decorative features and none of Ariat’s evidence convinced the office that this feature acted as a trade mark for Ariat’s goods.

Perhaps the most famous example of this kind of trade mark is Levi’s double-stitched pocket design, which is registered in many countries around the world. Levi’s has put many years of time and effort into ensuring its pocket design has become a wellknown badge of origin for its jeans. Now it can rely on those trade mark rights to keep other traders from

existing marketplaces. “This means that I get to travel a lot and to be honest if I am in the office for a long period of time, I am not really doing my job correctly,” Dunstan explained.

Huffer now has six stores in New Zealand, including one outlet store. They have been selling into Australia since 1999, but now have two new stores in Sydney, one in Newtown and Bondi coming soon. Dunstan is looking to expand even further with another two stores in Melbourne within the next 12-18 months.

“We developed a dedicated Australian strategy about 18-24 months ago and committed resource and focus to the market, and we are now starting to see some exciting growth and opportunity. Retail for Huffer is an amazing branding opportunity that develops experiences, especially in new markets like Australia where we can speak the brand and educate the market through these experiences. This has huge upside for our wholesale opportunities as retail develops strong brand awareness and engagement for the market.”

America is next on the hit list for Huffer. They have traded there before and have invested in relationships and knowledge of the marketplace. Jumping across the hemisphere requires an in-depth product and production plan alongside a dedicated brand plan.

“The US is a large market, and it takes more effort and resource so we need to build our business to take that step which we are currently doing,” he added.

Being local, Dunstan is proud to be from New Zealand and is constantly inspired by people and by their cultures and communities. “The effect of NZ influencing me and Huffer is more so the undertone and attitude of the brand more than applying ‘New Zealand’ on everything that we do,” he said.

After 19 years on Queen Street, Huffer has moved to Britomart along with their office upstairs that houses a team of 24.

using or registering similar designs.

Levi’s recently opposed an application for a trade mark filed by a Japanese company called Shimura Ltd. Shimura’s application was accepted by the Australian trade marks office, but in the opposition it was held that Shimura’s design was deceptively similar to Levi’s.

The hearings officer pointed out that Levi’s is not the ‘sole trader with rights to pocket stitching on pants’, but they did have exclusive rights in a particular form of stitching.

As with any trade mark, there are benefits to registering a nontraditional mark. The benefits include: • the right to take legal action – there are some proceedings, namely for trade mark infringement, which you cannot bring without a registered trade mark.

• prevention – a registered trade mark will stop others from registering a confusingly similar mark, and acts as a public notice; and • exclusivity – registration grants you the exclusive right to use the trade mark for your goods or services.

Registering colours, shapes, patterns and other nontraditional trade marks can be challenging, but they can be a powerful asset in your trade mark portfolio if you can get them.

By Stacey Campbell Solicitor AJ Park stacey.campbell@ajpark.com

INTELLECTUAL FASHION SHOW 2016 In 1999, fashion director of Vogue Paris, Marcus van Ackermann noted the remarkable difference between New Zealand and Australian fashion at Australian Fashion Week. “New Zealanders have a darker outlook, less show offy, more intellectual,” Van Ackermann explained. The Intellectual Fashion Show 2016 exhibition is

a collaborative project between Blikfang Gallery and the New Zealand Fashion Museum. The curators had anticipated a modest response of 20-25 interpretations of some of the costumes and instead have been overwhelmed by huge response from the industry.

The exhibition is based on an exhibition from 1959 by June Black at the Architectural Centre Gallery in Wellington. It was titled the Intellectual Fashion Show and showcased number of paintings, ceramic wall sculptures and a provocative commentary that presented the concept of an ‘intellectual fashion house’. This framed fashion as a powerful tool of self-expression.

The Intellectual Fashion Show 2016 revisits the Black’s concept and the importance of bringing your intellect to your wardrobe. The new exhibition offers the contributors and the audience a platform to experiment with the

de Pont, co-curator of this exhibition and director of the New Zealand Fashion Museum.

The Intellectual Fashion Show 2016 can be found at the Gus Fisher Gallery to the 5th of November. The publication was be launched with a special event at the exhibition on Saturday 22 October. expressive potential of what one wears physically and mentally.

Fifty years later, Black’s stand-out garments are still fresh, current and relevant today. These garments by Black and over sixty others creations by contributors will be on display.

“The central idea of this exhibition is that what we wear matters and that fashion can both dress the body and address the intellect. This holds true even today when the world is flooded with disposable fast fashion,” said Doris

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KIEKIE STANNERS Senior Artist, MAC Cosmetics New Zealand

How I ended up as a professional makeup artist I’ll never know and it still amuses me daily, however I’ve always been obsessed with the fashion industry…

I almost went to dance school but after receiving a scholarship I went with my first love to complete a Bachelor of Art and Design in Fashion at AUT. All I wanted was to be a fashion designer - I was sewing every day, selling my own early creations at weekend markets and in Kristine Crabb’s original store Rip, Shit and Bust. My first graduating job was with Zambesi as a hand finisher and workroom assistant cutter, starting a lifelong obsession with the Zambesi brand, incredible fabrics and New Zealand fashion in general.

Funnily enough I had never had any interest in makeup in the slightest, apart from doing my own crude rock’n’roll groupie eye makeup, but one day I decided if I wanted to live out my dreams of living in L.A watching my favourite bands I was going to have to learn a craft I could travel with… Don’t ask me why, but I naively walked into my favourite MAC Cosmetics Store, thinking ‘how hard could this be?› I asked for a job, and have never looked back…

Alas moving to L.A never happened after I fell in love with being a makeup artist and working within the fashion industry in another creative way, for an amazing cosmetics brand. The fact that I get to be backstage where ALL of the action is happening at big shows in London, Milan or Paris Fashion Week is definitely a 360° career highlight – I will never tire of celebrity-spotting or dream-shoe-shopping backstage, or working alongside the best

makeup artists in the world! But I love bringing what I learn back to NZ, and it’s always a highlight to design makeup for my favourite designers for NZ Fashion Week shows or new season campaigns. I’m biased but I love NZ fashion – I will always wear our local designers overseas – and it’s so special to be a big part in how their label’s aesthetic and story is told with makeup.

The changes with being a makeup artist now to when I started out are huge – it seems every second person is a makeup artist on social media and of course trends can now change in an instant thanks to celebrities and Instagram! Whilst it can feel like everyone is becoming a ‘professional’ in the makeup world, I see it as a very exciting time to be a makeup artist – it’s absolutely a viable career option with so many more opportunities now, and the ability to get your work out there on a global level. And as with anything - hard work, pure talent and your own signature style will always help you shine above anyone else!

I feel so privileged to be immersed in the fashion industry here, and not just because I can view new season collections before anyone else does, but because everyday involves a very mixed, extremely talented community of creatives, who above anything else put passion and heart into the work that they produce. There’s a very special je ne sais quoi to our vision and industry here, something that is completely unique to NZ and I’m continually proud of that.

MITCHELL VINCENT

Since graduating with a fashion and practice qualification from Wintec in 2013, Mitchell Vincent has been working hard on his label ‘Mitchell Vincent Collection’ and the results speak for themselves.

A consistent figure in New Zealand Fashion Week, Mitchell made his debut in the Miromoda show in New Zealand Fashion Week 2013 where he won the ‘Emerging Designer’ award. The New Generation show at NZFW is a stepping stone towards having his own solo show at Fashion Week, and this year’s show proved to be a memorable one as he captured the eye of buyers locally and internationally.

“The approach for our show at New Zealand Fashion Week this year was to be a little bit more commercial, to think about our customer and take the runway home,” he said. This approach clearly worked as the amount of interest his show generated, from your everyday customer to the local media and even from buyers, has been astounding.

Autumn/Winter 2017’s collection, while a little bit

24 I October 2016

more commercial than his previous collections, still has the elements that he is known for – simplicity and sophistication with a hint of rebellion. Even the styling of the models that came down the runway was still quintessentially MVC. The hoodies underneath woollen coats, the nicely fitted jeans that come in both black and white, original printed tees, and of course the signature beanie that is a crowd favourite.

“Going into Autumn/Winter 2017, it’s very muted tones to be honest,” Mitchell explains, “We are looking at your navy’s aside from the blacks and greys, and you’re looking at four seasons within one day – you have layers on layers.” Even though Fashion Week is over, the work for Autumn/Winter 17 have just begun in terms of production and then distribution.

The much-anticipated drop of this collection will be released online and in store. He is looking into getting the collection out to market in March of next year and already there’s a long list of people wanting to get their hands on his pieces. They are, after all, the kind of

staples every wardrobe needs to have.

Mitchell Vincent Collection is also a crowd favourite among NZ’s brightest stars with the likes of Stan Walker wearing his pieces to major award shows, premieres, and videos, among others. The work is never truly done for a designer. Inspiration is everywhere, and the change of seasons is enough to keep someone on their toes. Now that Mitchell is seeing his winter 17 collection to its completion, he’s already thinking about Spring/Summer 17. The last four years is only just the beginning of Mitchell Vincent Collection’s fashion takeover, and judging by the way things are going, it’s safe to say that Mitchell Vincent Collection is fast becoming a household name. Be the first to know and get exclusive access to all things Mitchell Vincent Collection. Follow MVC on Facebook @ mitchellvincentcollection and Instagram @mvcgram.

Interested in studying fashion design? Wintec can help! Check out what’s on offer at http://wintec.ac.nz/ fashion.

Fashion is getting more and more comfortable, and consumers are rejoicing. As part of the 2000’s resurgence, sportswear is trending in a major way. Fashion month proved that incorporating sportswear pieces into a highfashion outfit is a way to look fresh and modern.

LET’S GET PHYSICAL Branded pieces are particularly on-trend, much like the label-mania of the mid-2000’s. This is good news for retailers, as customers are looking for premium products containing instantly identifiable logos or designs.

Sports-inspired dresses and skirts are also very popular, as they exude a modern nonchalance and offer stylish comfort to consumers.

Functional gym-inspired bags are versatile and indispensable; a quirky slogan or original graphic print makes them more eye-catching and fun. Carryall bags and backpacks will also be a favourite of consumers for the warmer months.

Bomber jackets are still the jacket du jour.

Moving into spring they will remain popular, as they are a great way to layer for the unpredictable spring weather.

Bomber jackets are popular at a variety of price points, from Vetements to TopShop, and are a fixture of high street style as well as being featured in many ready to wear collections.

Sneakers are here to stay, they’re comfortable, fun, and perfect for dressing up or down for any occasion. Favoured in light blush or white for a clean, summer colour palette, sneakers are generally sold at a medium to high price point.

Consumers are investing in comfort as well as an on-trend aesthetic.

KELLY MORISON NZ Models & Talent

The critical part of running a talent agency is to give clients options and Kelly Morison of Christchurch’s NZ Models & Talent ha​s​sorted out that issue with everything from babies to old age pensioners. With up to 70 models on her books, she is the South Island’s “go-to” person for talent, but it wasn’t her starting point. Christchurch born and bred, Kelly studied travel, tourism and business and spent many years in the UK where her early passion for sales and marketing saw her gain an international qualification at the Cambridge Institute of Marketing.

Returning to Christchurch about nine years ago, she took a break from corporate marketing while her two children were young and when it was time for Morison to get back into the workforce, the opportunity to take over the agency came up. “It wasn’t something I thought of, but it coincided with my love of advertising and marketing, and as a result, I have come to enjoy working with the models who are so passionately positive,” she said.

Her early interest in stage and screen makeup has also contributed to the success of the agency, and it is

an area she may well develop in the future. Her broad sales, marketing and management training didn’t provide for the running of a model and talent agency where the training has definitely been on the job, and she admits to still learning.

Morison spoke of being surrounded by photographers and advertising people where they work together on client campaigns and put professional programmes together. “It’s great to have people like that around me to bounce ideas off, but it does mean my role is varied from accountant to booker, to business development to mentoring and training. I love that, we have been very successful in bringing some young people through to successful models,” she added. Morison wants to work on more training for their younger talent who want to enter the industry.

“Many of them now realise that modelling is just not standing around looking pretty and that adding value to promotional campaigns is important. And of course, the work we do often aids young people’s confidence.”

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HENRY HOLLAND

Henry Holland has always been fascinated with fashion and how fashion has the power to change the way you feel.

“It’s a therapeutic thing for me, and I have real attachments to clothes as memories growing up,” he explained. Holland believes his earliest memories are connected to particular outfits. One of Holland’s favourite ensembles showed off royal blue corduroy trousers paired with a yellow and white striped knit jumper. “It was epic and could be a piece of House of Holland for sure! So I suppose I’ve always had similar tastes,” Holland added. When he was younger, he would go shopping with his mother and sister and style them. “If my mum was in the changing rooms, I’d be out on the shop floor searching for different items she should try with what she had chosen. Like an eight-year-old stylist,” he said. Holland’s mother has always had a great eye for colour and if she ever needed some shoes to match an outfit she would need to take him with her.

As he wasn’t 100 percent sure what he wanted to do or be at 17, Holland decided to study journalism.

When he moved to university in London, he quickly discovered that fashion courses existed and that there was an entire industry around this thing that he loved.

“It just was not a career choice in Ramsbottom where I grew up. So after four days I tried to transfer to the fashion course and they turned me down,” he said.

26 I October 2016

Holland then continued to pursue journalism but spent every spare second he had getting work experience or internships in fashion doing anything and everything. “So that once I graduated I had a degree in journalism and two years fashion industry experience.

I think being on what I felt wasn’t the right course just drove me to succeed,” Holland explained. He believes there is no one formula to success, that one must do it their own way. Holland said the best advice he has been given is sort of a collection of advice he has received from people in his life. “Stay true to who and what you are in life and business”.

House of Holland has evolved and developed to a certain point where he believes it’s a constant battle not to let the commerciality of what you do influence your work too much. “It’s so important to stay true to your brand DNA and always keep that at the forefront,” he added. Since he started the label, Holland now has a lot more people working for him and works all over the globe. “It has definitely changed the way I work. When I first started out, I didn’t think I would be around for another six months let alone another six years. I think that the more you have and the more you have to achieve, the more you have to lose, so there’s always that element of trepidation. I do operate slightly less fearlessly than I did when I first started and I do try and fight that on a daily basis.”

No good at being too serious, Holland finds he is influenced by a more fun and playful approach and continues House of Holland because he simply loves it.

His favourite collaboration he has done so far has been his eyewear line first with Le Specs and then later again with his own line. “I love the category and the different styles and ways of translating what we do and our DNA,” Holland said.

Two key elements in Holland’s designs is to infuse a personality and tone to his work. The visual aesthetic varies depending on the reference points, but Holland always tries to maintain a particular tone in a collection.

“A bold, playful bright and knowing humour is what I want to be in all of my garments,” said Holland. Over the years, House of Holland has expanded its reach to encompass a wider age group. A House of Holland customer is someone who has a youthful approach to life, loves fashion and isn’t afraid to express themselves through what they wear.

The biggest challenges Holland has faced so far in his career have been “boring things like money and business growth and development”. Holland said that yes the fashion industry is creative, but it’s a creative business and most people don’t realise the importance of this. “If you don’t have the cash flow and capital to build and grow then your creativity is in vain because it will never see the light of day!”

With no two days alike, this is one of the perks of Holland’s job. “I need variation and change on a daily basis, and my job has that. Without looking at my diary before I go to sleep I have no clue what I will

be doing,” he added. However, there are constants such as meetings with different departments within House of Holland including; design, production development, finance and so on.

One of his favourite memories for House of Holland was his first ever London Fashion Week show. Holland took part in fashion east which is a group show where three designers show at one venue and share space backstage. “It wasn’t until all of the girls were dressed and ready to go from all three designers that I realised that it was a winter season! That’s how clueless I was.

One of the other designer’s models were wearing balaclavas and huge knits and my girls were wearing t-shirts in neon colours that just covered their bums!”

The first garment Holland designed were the original four t-shirts that kicked off the brand, but the first thing Holland ever made was a denim vest that he wore to boombox one night. Another time, Holland received the first piece of fabric from his first show and was so excited that he made a top from it to wear that night. “It was uneven and terribly cut, but I didn’t give a sh*t,” he added.

Holland said that a formal education is great and very important to some people, but no real formula works for everyone. “Obviously a full training in a certain field is probably a better approach for some, but for me, something so vocational is such a learning curve once you are in the industry whether you have studied or not,” he explained. “Your training doesn’t stop once you leave education no matter how much or how long you train.”

For those seeking a career in the fashion industry, Holland advises; “don’t worry if you decide later on that you want to be something different to what you set out to be. I didn’t study fashion; I wasn’t ready to decide that’s what I was going to do when I was 17.

If you do want to go into fashion, find out what it is that you want to say with your work, find your point of view and your tone of voice and just stay really true to that from day one. Because this is an industry that’s subjective, some people will love what you do, and others will hate it, but if you always stay very authentic and true to your brand and your DNA, then nobody can take that away from you.”

The next step for Holland is world domination and maybe marriage.

7– 9 FEB 2017 GDS-ONLINE.COM

For all GDS information and advice on travel and accommodation options, contact Robert Laing, Messe Reps. & Travel, 09 5219200, robert@messereps.co.nz

The Definitive Guide to Spring Trends Four cities, five weeks, hundreds of shows, thousands of garments and a handful of spring trends that will really connect with consumers. It takes a whole lot of analysis to get through that load, and happily for you, our analysts have been hard at it.

Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITED Here, we share the eight biggest spring trends of next season, all based on their commercial influence and each underpinned with data to support their adoption.

EIGHT BIG SPRING TRENDS FOR 2017 1. The No-Brainer

contemporary, nor is it streamlined. This is a fussy look, but all the more frivolous for it.

New arrivals of last season’s ruffled dresses picked up dramatically in March, as retailers launched their Spring campaigns. Through to July, new arrivals stayed steady, and lofted in July, peak wedding season. Fall 2016’s gothic prairie looks will keep consumers warmed up to this style – Zara’s currently leading the mass market with the style.

3. Denim’s Direction

be a tech-y raincoat. In unusual tones (no dog-walking navy or forest green numbers here), baring prints, drawstrings and trailing volume, Spring 2017’s jackets are hyper-useful. Make them cropped, think about breathability and you’ll appeal to the outdoor-exercising consumer in those tricky early months of spring.

There’s a shortage of activewear rain items, as identified on with our new Sports & Active filter (more on that soon!) With a little over 1,000 technical sports raincoats currently online, the market is currently cornered by Regatta, Helly Hansen and North Face.

Time to bring some high fashion cool to this market.

6. The New Season Bag

Denim gets some serious bling for Spring 2017. That’s great news for retailers, as embroidered and patched denim was the hottest ticket in the category for Summer 2016 with Zara’s patched denim jacket, Topshop’s floral jeans and Marc Jacobs’ shrunken moto jacket all standout commercial hits. In the last six months, there have been more than 2,500 embroidered denim items arriving online, 31% of which arrived in the luxury or premium market. Marc Jacobs and Roberto Cavalli have ensured interest carries on into Fall 2016, with their dark washed, embroidered and patched styles.

Moving into next season, move Spring 2016’s florals on with an array of embellishments which range from metalwork, to sequins, embroidered animals and emblems to appliqué patches. The garment silhouette they were shown on stays loose, with wide jeans, oversized boxy jackets and loose dresses. Last summer, it wasn’t jeans that were the most successful style of embroidered denim. Skirts and shorts performed best, at a $30-40 price point, and jackets, at a $50-60 price point.

Have some fun with toy-sized bags next season: teeny weeny bags are the ult-luxe statement and a bit of irreverent fun. Trinket-like small leather items were decked out with appliqué, dangled bag charms and ornate chains. Between Q4 of 2015 and Q3 of 2016, there was a 28% increase in the number of new miniature bags arriving online. Though mini bags by Givenchy, Stella McCartney and Alexander Wang are the most stocked right now, that growth shows this trend is no longer solely the reserve of the luxury market.

7. The Spring Print

4. Summer’s Shoe Staple

Ornately 80s or decadently Renaissance: design teams around the world, reach down your historic reference books. Statement sleeves are the feature of the season, with designers in all four capitals agreeing wholeheartedly. You had a hit with cold-shoulder and Bardot styles in Spring 2016 and a myriad of sleeve shapes burst onto the scene for next season. This feels new, edgy and slightly challenging – a formula that, done right, will result in a chorus of cash registers ringing out. Look out for princess sleeves, leg o’ mutton, fluted and structural dolman. Miss this one and you may as well skip the season.

2. The Wedding Season Dress

The off-shoulder, single flounce dress was Spring 2016’s occasionwear leader, so what’s next? A whole lot more flounces, that’s what. Partially driven by Gucci’s batty-vintage leaning of the last few seasons, these ultra-feminine dresses were seen across each fashion capital. You’ll need a floral print, some frills or ruffles (ideally on sleeves) and sheer fabrics. Extra points for velvet burnout techniques or lacework. This isn’t

28 I October 2016

Never mind the sliders and the sneakers (we know you’ll have those covered), the tied-up sandal is the new shoe style of the season. Whether it’s slim ribbons or big bows, get your party shoes laced for next summer.

Satin bows in jewel tones will work on evening footwear, while espadrille-like calico ribbons are a great option for daytime styles. Espadrilles sold well in Spring 2016, so update them for the new season with a platform, or in metallic tones – those silver shoes aren’t over with either.

When Altuzarra sent out a sea of gingham in Spring 2016, there were murmurs of it being the print of the season. Well, that was nothing compared to Spring 2017, when a whole host of big name designers joined the picnic-y ranks. Red was the most used shade of the bold print, though many times designers worked a few colors together across a couple of garments in one look. That’s one way to lift this print trend from preppy to punk-y (or at least punkier…). Throw on a few appliqué patches, cut the garment on the bias, give it an asymmetric hemline and hey presto, you’ll have a new season winner on your hands.

8. The Defining Color

5. The Activewear Make-over

You didn’t think activewear had been relegated out of Spring 2017’s trends did you? The leisurely look is still key and that should be music to retailers ears, given the sporty lifestyles and functional demands of shoppers today. Jogging bottoms, leggings, sweatshirts and hoodies: all the basics, you’ve probably covered. So Spring 2017’s addition to your activewear lines should

It’s red for Spring 2017. Our colorwheel below is compiled from color recognition software, which every single runway image passes through. That means our new season palette is determine by data, with each color weighting reflecting precisely what designers sent out. Collections were heavy on white, as we’ve seen over the last few seasons. No surprise in the return of pale pink either – that’s been selling well. A nice addition is the jolt of magenta. But the big new color story is the vivid red, so often used in head to toe looks. It’s a bit naughty, a bit daring particularly when done in lace or sheers. Give it a try, then place front and centre.

FASHION UNIFORMS Celebrating putting fashion into workwear for 50 years.

In 1966, when Fashion Uniforms cut and assembled their first range of workwear uniforms, beehives were big, ties were wide and men wore hats. Fifty years later hair is sleek, ties are skinny, hardly anyone wears a hat and yet and Fashion Uniforms are still producing quality New Zealand-made corporate wear which is right on the button.

Celebrating their 50th anniversary in November, Fashion Uniforms is a New Zealand success story in every way. The company has survived numerous business challenges – rapid growth, shortage of skilled workers, relocation, Rogernomics, offshore manufacturing and ownership changes.

Through thick and thin, crimpolene and chiffon, polyester and polarfleece, Fashion Uniforms has adapted readily to market conditions and clothing trends. Today the company is one of very few long-lived apparel manufacturers remaining in New Zealand.

Ron Jamieson, founder of Fashion Uniforms, remembers when he decided to strike out on his own. He’d just been made redundant from a business called Action Uniforms.

“At the time there were only two companies making uniforms in New Zealand – my recent employer Action Uniforms, and another company called Professional Uniforms.

I considered their names and decided to call my business Fashion Uniforms. It was a strategic move.

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We didn’t copy uniforms; we worked hard on our own stylish designs.”

Ron purchased second hand machinery and found premises in Onehunga. Within a few months, another space was rented to accommodate the rapidly-growing company. Ron didn’t only focus on getting customers and making sales, he was determined to understand every aspect of the uniform making process.

“When I started Fashion Uniforms, I had no idea how to produce a garment. I was a marketer, not a tailor. To have a complete knowledge of the business, I learned how to cut and produce garments. Within a short space of time, I was making my own patterns.” The business flourished and many of the staff from those early days are still part of the team giving the company a continuity others would envy.

This level of determination has continued to fuel Fashion Uniforms throughout the years, even when free market reforms in the 1990s opened the doors to cheap uniform imports from offshore. To maintain price competitiveness, particularly in the supply of bulk items like polo shirts, synergistic relationships were formed with carefully selected manufacturing facilities in China and Fiji.

The early 90s also brought a more sophisticated way of dressing for corporate workers. Fashion Uniforms responded to this opportunity with a stylish range of corporate jackets, skirts, pants and blouses. The

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introduction of this new range coincided with a move to highly accurate, time-effective computerised cutting.

Another leap forward came in 2003, when the SARS outbreak inspired Fashion Uniforms to develop Biogarde™ antimicrobial fabric, which is still the only fully antimicrobial fabric made in Australasia. These initiatives were a turning point that secured new customers and consolidated the future success of the company.

Today Fashion Uniforms is New Zealand’s longest-standing healthcare and corporate wardrobe provider. The company is one of only a few apparel manufacturers in New Zealand with a dedicated local manufacturing resource.

General Manager Chloe Sharplin believes the company is a survivor because it gives workers what they want – beautifully designed garments that fit with current fashion trends and are comfortable to wear.

“Before I started at Fashion Uniforms, the words ‘fashion’ and ‘uniform’ used together felt like an oxymoron. They seemed mutually exclusive.

However, after five years at Fashion Uniforms, I now know exactly what these words mean – they describe a fusion of what the customer needs and what they enjoy wearing. And what we enjoy making”, said Sharplin. www.fashionuniforms.co.nz

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· Production runs large & small orders: knit & woven Judy · Full sample service (Production quotes) Anderson · Block fusing (09) 537 1216 · Standard & Keyhole Buttonholes 021 259 5555 · Standard & Shank attachment ​Newbutton Zealand’s number one supplier​​of industrial sewing, 28a Alexander St · Covered Button (single & production orders) embroidery, steam​​& curtain automated machinery.​ Cockle Bay · Doming ​L​EADING BRANDS​:​ Juki, Tajima, B ​ ​rother, Pegasus, Jiffy, Eisenkolb, Typical, Stirovap, Siruba Howick · Whip-stitching Email: sales@walkersotech.co.nz or sales@sewingtime.co.nz Auckland · Cover-seaming 0800 446953 • 09 525 0011​​• 03 366Email: 1112patternz@xtra.co.nzM · Blind-hemming/Bar-tacking New show room at 23 Fairfax Ave, Penrose, Auckland · School/Sport-wear uniforms 8 Stanley St, Sydenham, Christchurch · Alterations www.walkersotech.co.nz or www.sewingtime.co.nz

TO CLEAR

EXCESS STOCK? Galaxy Clothing

POP-UP STORE CALL TRACEY

THE SHOPFITTING

027 352 1836

SPECIALISTS

PHONE ANITA (OWNER OPERATOR)

t

09 444 9010 or 021 613 839

top sales person required LARGE RANGE OFEnthusiastic NEW ZEALAND for this long established company of QUALITY MADE SHOP FITTINGS GARMENT RACKS , good repute. Generous commission rate AVAILABLE EX-STOCK OR and pleasant work environment.

Must BASKET UNITS , MESH/ PROvidiNG: MANUFACTURED TO ORDER reliable vehicle, maintain existing have SUPERIOR GRID, HANGERS, SIZE RESULTS customers and seek new Show New Zealand Pro DIVIDERS, BODY FORMS INoutlets.

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ACCESSORIES RACK-HIRE TERRITORY: Auckland and Greater NewCity Zealand Sales & Demonstrations industry SERVICE AVAILABLE Auckland, FREEPHONE• High attention to Northland, Waikato, B.O.P.

• Full service – sm 0508 243 629

START DATE: August 2010

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PAD System is the complete design suite that satisfies the technical requirements of all Pattern and Marker Makers, from made to measure designers to mass production, while reducing cost & improving productivity.

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KEEN CUTTING CO Simplicity is best.....

Automated or manual cutting available.

We can organize pattern making, computer grading and marking.

Mannequin Sales & Hire Give us a call and seeDurable if we can help.

Incredibly

Ph 09 276 8338 or email keencutting@xtra.co.nz 5/91 Huia Road, Designed in Otahuhu New Zealand 30 APPAREL NOVEMBER 2010 Auckland 1062

30 I October 2016

100% Recyclable 30 app arel

MAY 2009

GUY THORNTON

Improve your Workflow

• Quick turnaround

CONTACT: Pieter Olivier, • Specialists in wov pieter@reviewmags.co.nz Office, Factory and Showroom: 6A Henderson Place, Onehunga, Auckland 341 433, email: or www.propress.co.nz PhMob: 08000274 38 0800 Fax 09 636 bruce@bma.co.nz 9379 www.displays.co.nz CONTA

GARMENT TECHNOLOGY

Providing technical support to the clothing industry for the past 33 years

◆ Computerised Markers (Pad System) Sales & Hire ◆ Gerber & Lectra compatible ◆ Pattern Making 100% Recyclable ◆ Pattern Grading ◆ Sampling Incredibly Durable ◆ Cutting ◆ Production Runs

Wanted Stock

For new clothing outlet Designed in New Zealand in Christchurch PH: 09 441 3187, FAx: 09 441 3190 EMAiL: guy@patternmaksamples end of ers.co.nz or liz@patternmakers. w w wco.nz . p uwww.patternmakers.co.nz r f o r m . n e t lines | p h 0 etc 9 579 5566 email robyn or andrea adjj@xtra.co.nz phone 03 3431681

Now To diSCu

PH 0

EMAiL: david

Emerging desig ow

We can provide friendly 0508 AGENCY service for all y 0508 243629

arnet Garment www.bma.co.nz

Call Kevin on 579 8002 em

classifieds

Experts in design and production preparation for NZ and Off Shore Manufacturing Professional Pattern Making, Grading and Marker Making (card or CAD)

Our skills and unique service will help make your Designs a reality www.patternpotentials.co.nz phone: 07 889 3876

email: sue@patternpotentials.co.nz

The Tailors Collection

Made in New Zealand for New Zealand Sizes

More Than Just Bias Binding Contact PHILIP TANNER philip@generalproducts.co.nz

09 3735762

www.generalproducts.co.nz

afp

Ph: 09 828 5206

www.purfex.com

AUCKLAND FABRIC PRINTERS Complete Sampling Service Patternmaking (computerised & manual) Computerised Digitising & Grading (Card or paper patterns) Computerised Marker Making (Compatible with Pad, Gerber Accumark and Lectra) Sample cutting with Fabric Estimates Sample Making Production Runs Production Cutting

Auckland fabric printers specialize in screen printing fabric on the roll for merino wool, linen, cotton, lycra, nylon, blends, knitted and woven fabric. apparel - fashion - soft furnishings - interior design - home ware

aucklandfabricprinters.co.nz

BOOK NOW

With our threads and needles V

(Compat Samp

ENUS

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CONTACT JOSIE

TERRY APPAREL LIMITED

“JOINING YOUR PRODUCT”

With our compliments

OS

sales@afprinters.co.nz

RP

09-274 4100

Call the team at Ph: (09) 369 9249 or email helenh@hsr.co.nz 21D PORANA RD, WAIRAU VALLEY

Call 0800TERRYS to place your order

josie@reviewmags.com

Ph: (0

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 31

iP is about innovative people If you’ve got a standout brand or design to protect, talk to AJ Park today.

Coffee’s on us.

Stacey Campbell Solicitor +64 4 498 3464 stacey.campbell@ajpark.com