Apparel Magazine // November 2015

$ 9.00

NOVEMBER 2015 I VOL 48 I NO 11

POOLSIDE pg 22

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NEWS MENSWEAR RADAR RESENE COLOUR TRENDING BARKERS PROFILE

EDITOR’S letter TAXING ISSUES

As fashion remains one of the highest contributors to pollution in the world, many brands and manufacturers have launched initiatives to reduce their environmental impact.

Top designer Stella McCartney operates an animal product-free supply chain after a study published by Dr Rajendra Kumar Pachauri established a connection between killing animals the climate crisis.

“I find it interesting to link it all to food,” said McCartney to a news source.

“The consumption of animals, whether you’re wearing them or eating them, is extraordinarily damaging to the planet.

Sustainability may cost more but companies that make clear commitments to being more sustainable across all business activities are aware that it comes with additional costs.

“It can cost up to 70 percent more, we absorb that in our margin instead of pricing products up,” said McCartney.

“We don’t use horse, fish or pig glues. It’s just like making a bag of cereal. When you make a conventional bag of granola and you sell it in the supermarket, it will be cheaper than homemade ones.”

In designing her first collection for retail giant H&M, McCartney experienced first-hand the impact she could have in educating larger corporations in sustainability.

“We insisted on certain things and guidelines, that products were organic and sustainable. It was a nice eye opener for them, to be able to see that it sold out in four seconds, regardless of whether it was an organic t-shirt or not,” said McCartney.

H&M believe that more than 30 percent of a garment’s climate footprint occurs after it leaves the store which prompted a partnership with McCartney to educate consumers on how to take care of their clothes with less washing and introducing a global clothing recycling programme.

Global brand LVMH has recently put forward an alternative approach to the carbon issue. The company will set up an internal “carbon fund” which will act as a company-wide savings account financed by contributions from its 70 subsidiary companies.

Beginning in 2016, each of the companies will pay around NZ$26 per tonne of carbon that they produce. The funds will be spent on efforts to reduce the company’s emissions, like energy-efficient LED and cooling equipment. Otherwise known as carbon trading, where companies or individuals pay for emmision-reducing projects in order to offset its own emissions.

Despite it being a rather unconventional approach to sustainability, an internal carbon fund for fashion companies raises two key areas of concern one being a business incentive that sees a company tax itself for producing carbon and the other to opening the door to potential backlash and putting a company under scrutiny. Retailers like H&M and Zara have both launched large-scale sustainability efforts yet have faced criticism for it.

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

ON THE COVER:

PHOTOGRAPHER: Caitlan Mitchell MODEL: Danika @62 Models POOL ACCESSORIES: Ponsonby Pony Club VENUE: Our thanks to L & L Davie Danika wears REBE Fedora in Fawn and STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB Patsy Blouse in Sunset Orange.

the NUMBERS . . .

Consumers in UK have an estimated £30 billion ($69 billion) worth of unworn clothes lingering in their closets.

Every year, the Chinese textile industry creates about 3 billion tons of soot, and millions of tons of unused fabric go to waste when dyed the wrong color.

FASHIONABLE

READS

AT THE BEACH 100 Years of Summer Fashion in New Zealand

BY THE NEW ZEALAND FASHION MUSEUM In collaboration with the Maritime Museum exhibition of the same name, At The Beach: 100 Years of Summer Fashion in New Zealand is a celebration of how beach fashion has changed over the course of 100 years.

Splashed across 100 pages, the book covers every aspect of beach attire, from lounging on the sand to full head deep in the ocean. It includes personal experiences, exploring the relationship between glamour and the beach.

At The Beach: 100 Years of Summer Fashion in New Zealand runs from 17 October 2015 to 8 February 2016, with the book on sale through select bookshops and online.

THE SARTORIALIST X

BY SCOTT SCHUMAN Street-style photographer, Scott Schuman, returns with his final instalment in the Sartorialist published editions, once again collating the most vibrant photos of men and women from around the world.

Originating as a New York-based blog, The Sartorialist has grown into one of the biggest street-style destinations on the web, showcasing urban fashion from around the world.

“Scott doesn’t just take pictures, he captures emotion. He is not just a photographer. He’s a historian making the feelings of this generation one photo at a time,” said Kanye West.

The Sartorialist: X brings together the best of the past three years into a fashion bible that will serve as an inspiration for both designers and consumers.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA This Legendary World of Style

US consumers annually spend US$250 billion on fashion, including accessories.

In 2013, the website BlogHer surveyed 1,600 women and found that 1 in 8 had more than 50 pairs of shoes, whilst 43 percent of them claimed to own between 20 and 49 pairs.

PUBLISHER Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com EDITOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Thomas Fowler - tommie@reviewmags.com

Monique McKenzie - monique@reviewmags.com Rossella Quaranta - rossella@reviewmags.com

ADVERTISING SALES

Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com

Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com

2 I November 2015

SENIOR DESIGNER Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com PHOTOGRAPHER Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com ADMINISTRATION MANAGER Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.

BY ANDRE LEON TALLEY Following his passing in 2014, Vogue contributing editor Andre Leon Talley has captured the life and style of Oscar De La Renta in a monograph of his work.

Talley recounts De La Renta’s journey through nearly 70 gowns, from his apprenticeship with Cristobal Balenciaga through to the many historic collections that De La Renta conceived.

With over 50 years of experience in the industry, De La Renta was renowned for his impeccable standards and motivation to make his customer look and feel beautiful having dressed some of the world’s most influential women including Jackie Kennedy, Michelle Obama, Beyoncé and Sarah Jessica Parker.

The hardcover book spans over 150 pages, available online or through select bookstores.

Let us help you make the best match.

Call JACQUI 09 309 5020 or visit www.nzfashiontech.ac.nz

news

NEW DEAL FOR ICONIC SHIRT MAKER LICHFIELD

A new team with solid financial backing is bringing fresh life to Lichfield International, one of the oldest menswear producers in the country.

As the Christchurch-based shirtmaker heads into its centenary year in 2016, the company is taking a major leap forward under the leadership of Geoff Alcock with a revamp of its operations.

The manoeuvres in the change have taken their toll on the timing of new season offerings and the company is apologetic about the lateness in showing its next range.

“But it is all worthwhile – we are introducing fresh ideas with the new ranges that are now being shown for next winter,” said Alcock, who came into the company about four and a half years ago as a consultant and saw the potential. Well known, he has had over 35 years in the clothing industry including time with menswear supplier Shirtmakers.

With new financial backing, the Christchurch-based operation is looking strong and its enthusiastic team is excited to start the next chapter in this iconic New Zealand company’s legacy.

Andrew B Shipley, who resigned from managing director earlier this year, is no longer a director of Lichfield International Ltd.

SPECSAVERS LAUNCH DESIGNER OFFERING

October saw the launch of Specsavers’ new designer offering that boasted big name brands including Karl Lagerfeld, Karen Millen, Converse, Alex Perry and more.

The launch further demonstrated Specsavers’ goal of offering high fashion options at an affordable price, with the most notable being the Lagerfeld brand.

Founded by the fashion icon himself, the Karl Lagerfeld brand for Specsavers is rooted in accessible styles that are iconic, ironic and cool.

The offering includes options for both men and woman, available exclusively through Specsavers.

INTERNATIONAL DEPARTMENT STORE COULD HIT NZ SHORES

Talks of another international retailer opening in New Zealand have emerged, on the back of other competitors entering the market.

UK department store and brand, Debenhams, has been rumoured to be expanding into New Zealand following its planned launch into Australia.

Debenhams will launch into Australia in 2016 through Pepkor, which is part of the international retail giant Steinhoff Group, and owner of Australian department store chain, Harris Scarfe.

The phased entry is the first southern hemisphere location for Debenhams, which already retails in 27 countries across more than 240 stores.

Alongside Debenhams, Zara is also rumoured to be scouting locations in Auckland and Wellington while Canadian retailer, Kit and Ace, is set to launch a pop up store in Auckland’s Britomart late 2016.

4 I November 2015

NEW OFFERING FOR CURVY CUSTOMERS

Following a short break from retail, designer Sera Lilly has launched back into the industry with a new direction and brand, focussed on fuller figure customers.

Sera Lilly Curve is designed to enhance confidence through flattering, trend-driven styling that celebrates curves.

“I’m a firm believer that every woman can look good, and in fact deserves to look good no matter what her shape or size,” said Lilly.

The range runs in-line with the lifestyle changes of Lilly, who recently started Fat 2 Fit NZ, an online community following Lilly on her journey towards health.

Sera Lilly curve is available in sizes 14 to 24 through her website www.seralillycurve.com.

news

TOPSHOP HEADS SOUTH

Shortly after its opening in Auckland, Topshop has announced it will be opening its second New Zealand retail location in Christchurch.

The two-level flagship store is set to open on the corner of Cashel and Colombo streets in early 2017, as part of The Crossing development.

Topshop Christchurch will receive weekly deliveries from the UK, where the retail giant is based. Along with its namesake brand, Topshop will also bring with it the menswear focused label Topman and fashion labels Unique and Boutique.

“Topshop had plenty of options to site their flagship store in Christchurch but were attracted to the fact The Crossing will be a world-class development, the quality of which has never been seen before in the South Island,” said Philip Carter, Crossing developer, who is also part owner of Top Retail, which has the rights to the Topshop and Topman stores in New Zealand.

The Crossing will include new developments and refitted heritage buildings to offer retail, hospitality and office spaces.

VANCOUVER WRAPPED UP

The 27th consecutive season of Vancouver Fashion Week wrapped up on October 4, with a total of 110 designers showcasing in just seven days.

This year was the biggest event to date, garnering international media attention, designers from 27 different countries, and over 30,000 attendees.

New Zealand was well represented, with three designers showcasing their latest collections; Liann Bellis, Frances Jerard and Carmen Kirstein.

“Being invited onto the world stage showcasing my collection with designers from all over the world was truly an exhilarating experience.

It has been a very inspiring event as it makes you feel like the rest of the world wants to see your designs inspiring to go home and create the next collection,” said Kirstein.

Vancouver Fashion Week will be back for its 27th consecutive season on March 14, 2016.

KAREN WALKER X LIBERTY

Renowned for its inspiring collaborations, English brand Liberty have teamed up with esteemed New Zealand designer, Karen Walker, to release a capsule range of eyewear.

The collaboration consists of three Karen Walker styles; Super Duper Strength, Harvest and Number One available in three colourways of Liberty’s famous Pareira print.

UNPACKED, PRESSED, REPAIRED, WAREHOUSED, DELIVERED & LOVED. C&F Garment Management offers a truly seamless service to remove cost and complexity from your supply chain. You’ll find we have an expert eye for detail, a smart head for logistics and a huge heart for fashion.

We would love to show what we could do for you. From pressing an entire shipment and warehousing your new season’s lines, to sewing on a single button. We invite you to come and see for yourself.

www.candf.co.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

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news

NEW FASHION WEEK FOR AUCKLAND

The inaugural Auckland Fashion Week was launched this October at the helm of award winning businesswoman and fashion manager, Denyse Saunders.

Alexandra Park played host to Saunders’ event, which is the culmination of 40 years experience in the industry.

“I have been overwhelmed by the generous support and encouragement, from the models and designers to the audience and sponsors,” said Saunders.

Along with Auckland Fashion Week, Saunders is also the owner and director of Canterbury Fashion Week and works as fashion event manager for the Alexandra Park Cup Week best dressed competitions.

“It is the start of new heights for NZ Designers and NZ models alike. The show was outstanding and we can’t wait until the next one in March,” said Ngaire Lynch, designer, Chrystal Sloane.

Saunders said the support has prompted a quick turn around, with the next event planned for March 2016.

STUDENTS GEAR UP FOR PITCH 2015

The annual end of year show for CPIT, Pitch, is set to go ahead on November 21, with students simultaneously executing their collections, preparing for runway, and finishing paperwork in order to graduate.

In her final year, Cara Davis has taken inspiration from Dior and the Garden of Versailles, translating it into a collection she is eager to showcase at Pitch this year.

“I really wanted to do something with colour this time around because my last collection was monochromatic. So I saw pictures I had from my trip away and it all fell into place,” said Davis.

Pitch will feature full collections by 11 final year Fashion Technology and Design students, with industry professionals often in the crowd looking for young talent.

CPIT is also looking at expanding its education offering, pending approval by the New Zealand Qualifications Authority on a proposed degree-level course in fashion technology next year.

VERGE HEADS STEP DOWN

Following health concerns, Ian Webster and Neil Brabant have decided to step down from the successful brand, Verge.

The departure comes after Webster suffered a heart attack, having dedicated 40 years to the industry and developing a highly regarded manufacturing company.

New owners are being sought, with a number of parties already indicating interest.

“We are doing everything in our power to ensure that new owners are found in either New Zealand or Australia so that any disruption to our loyal staff, suppliers and customers can be minimised,” said Brabant.

Brabant and Webster are confident they will find a buyer quickly due to the Australasian popularity of the Verge brand.

www.frostex.co.nz

Fashion • Corporate • Manchester

6 I November 2015

news

FARMERS OPENS ITS DOORS ON QUEEN STREET

Following the relocation of Whitcoulls, Farmers have opened a newly refurbished store in the heart of Auckland’s Queen Street.

Farmers has been absent from Queen Street since its closure in 2014; with the reopening, the company has created 46 new jobs. The new retail space spans across three floors and houses the widest range of hosiery in any Farmers store.

“Farmers Queen St is like no other Farmers you will have ever seen. To call it a concept store is to ignore the fact it is home to the very best brands we stock in ranges specially put together for the modern CBD fashion conscious customer,” said Rod McDermott, chief executive, Farmers.

Access to Little High Street Arcade, where the new Whitcoulls store opened, is still available through the new Farmers building.

CHRISTMAS IMPORT ISSUES ON HORIZON

Australian customs brokerage company, Platinum Freight Management Pty Ltd, is warning of potential import issues that commonly arise during the Christmas trade period.

“Businesses should factor in public holidays in their logistics schedule, to land goods before holidays begin,” said Peter McRae, chief executive, Platinum Freight.

McRae explained how first-time importers are the most at-risk for delays in processing, which can lead to back clearance lasting up to five days.

“Be organised. Be prepared and plan your imports. Where possible, ship early, pre-clear goods and factor in an additional budget just in case your goods are caught up in a Christmas bottleneck.”

SGC CELEBRATE 10 YEARS

New Zealand streetwear label Stolen Girlfriends Club celebrated its 10 year anniversary last month.

After humble beginnings as an art exhibition of the same name, the Stolen Girlfriends Club brand has skyrocketed to an international fashion retailer, and has developed an international following of loyal customers.

In celebration of the anniversary, Stolen Girlfriends Club have released a limited edition t-shirt that reads, “ten years of sweet f*** all”.

The brand now releases three collections throughout the year, with the addition of three jewellery stories and two denim ranges annually.

Join the evolution Hundreds of thousands of Kiwis have embraced MasterCard® contactless for their everyday expenses as the technology continues to make shopping faster, more convenient and secure. In fact, the number of contactless transactions has tripled from what it was just a year ago. So don’t jeopardise your business reputation for great customer service or risk losing repeat business – talk to your bank about activating contactless today.

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news

CONTINUED EXPANSION FOR COTTON ON GROUP

Global fashion retailer, Cotton On Group, have announced plans to grow its New Zealand business by 50 percent over the next three years.

Investment into developing its e-commerce platform and growing store footprint is set to bring over 900 new roles to the company, including positions in retail, design, marketing, digital, e-commerce and logistics.

“New Zealand was the first international market we entered outside Australia back in 2006 and since then it has been the impetus for our global growth as we’ve expanded into 17 countries worldwide,” said Michael Hardwick, chief financial officer, Cotton On Group.

A strong focus on digital is part of the company’s plan to increase customer engagement, which in turn will allow for the outlined growth of the business.

Alongside its plans for New Zealand, Cotton On Group have also announced it will open an additional 570 stores internationally in the same timeframe, which would total over 1900 retail locations worldwide, with five stores planned for New Zealand before Christmas this year.

BALLANTYNES BOUNCES BACK

Following another Christchurch earthquake, Ballantynes proved it is more resilient than ever, with analysts praising the company’s ability to continue retailing in a volatile environment.

Ballantynes is no stranger to tragedy, having survived through the 1947 fire that engulfed the entire store, which still remains the worst in New Zealand’s history.

“Customers have responded to Ballantynes and retained their loyalty. In return the company has kept faith in customers and managed to continuously provide good quality merchandise,” said Paul Keane, commercial property consultant, RCG. Keane said Christchurch would regain a robust retail environment, with Ballantynes set to continue its 100-year-old legacy.

UBER PICKS UP OLD CLOHTES

The drive share company, Uber, paired up with Red Cross to help New Zealanders get rid of their old clothes.

For one day only, Uber covered the drivers’ cost and allowed customers to fill up an uber with as many clothes that would fit so they can be donated to the Red Cross in order to resettle refugees.

“We’ll take as many clothes as our drivers can fit in the car. Preferably good quality secondhand clothes,” said Oscar Peppitt, New Zealand general manager, Uber.

So far 20 countries have signed up to take part in the UberGiving campaign with confirmed dates for the UK, Germany, Italy, Prague, Hungary, the Netherlands, Slovakia, Finland and Estonia.

APPAREL GOLF TOURNAMENT

This year’s Apparel Golf Tournament will be held at the Whitford Park Golf Club on Friday 4th December.

For more information and to put your name down contact Trevor Hookway on 09 845 3888 or email Trevor@hawesandfreer.co.nz.

GLOBALsnapshot

APPLICATIONS OPEN FOR PROJECT NEXGEN

The newly launched program NexGen opened its applications late October. Designed as an evolution of the New Generation show, Project NextGen will help discover and launch the careers of emerging designers at MercedesBenz Fashion Week Australia in 2016.

Applicants will be selected by a panel of industry experts, culminating in an official invitation for up to six designers to show at the event as part of the St. George NextGen runway in May 2016.

“As the local industry evolves and becomes increasingly global, it is important to embrace industry knowledge and foster new talent ensuring the very best young creatives are properly mentored,” said Emily Weight, director of global strategy and brand, IMG Fashion.

The selected designers will receive a fully funded runway show, mentoring by a St. George business advisor, networking opportunities, and exposure to a global audience.

Designers will be announced in February 2016.

8 I November 2015

NO STRATEGY CHANGE FOR ASOS

Following the departure of Asos chief executive officer, Nick Robertson, his successor Nick Beighton said he would not change the company’s target audience.

The international retailer based in the UK has had an 18 percent increase in sales, counteracting the three profit warnings it received in 2014 amidst strong local currency troubles and a fire at its Barnsley warehouse.

“We will not be growing up with our customers and will remain forever young,” said Beighton.

Mobile traffic overtook traditional computer browsing for the first time this year, with the company reporting 60 percent of its international views came from mobile platforms, with 44 percent of orders being made through smartphones.

Nick Beighton, chief executive officer, Asos.

TENSIONS DRIVE OUT LANVIN DESIGNER

After 14 years at France’s oldest fashion brand, designer Alber Elbaz has left Lanvin.

While there are no official reports as to why Elbaz left, industry professionals have pinned the departure down to growing tensions between Lanvin shareholders amidst steady declining sales.

Lanvin’s controlling stakeholder, Shaw-Lan Wang, refused to sell the company on two occasions with an informal offer of over 400 million euros from Valentino’s Qatari owners Mayhoola and another indicative bid of less than 400 million euros from Gucci owner Kering. Elbaz is not the first to abruptly leave Lanvin, with Thierry Andretta resigning from his executive role two years ago following strategic disagreements with Wang, who has now taken over executive management of the company.

Rumours that Elbaz will replace the recently departed Raf Simons at Dior have yet to be confirmed.

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menswear news

RETROSPECTIVE CAMPAIGN FROM I LOVE UGLY

FURTHER EXPANSION FOR REMBRANDT Following a successful launch and expansion in the Australian market, Rembrandt will open its fourth Auckland store in December.

Rembrandt opened its first Auckland store in 2012 and now currently operates three in the

city. The company also launched its online store in 2014, which sells all three of Rembrandt’s brands; Rembrandt, Wayward Heir and Earl & English.

The new store will be situated at 41 Shortland Street.

BARKERS TEAM UP WITH WALTER CROW New Zealand label, I Love Ugly, has produced a retrospective campaign focussed around the current state of society.

‘Generations’ puts the spotlight on the pressure to conform to society’s ideals and boundaries, with models dressed in past, present and upcoming ILU garments.

Young models were asked what they wanted to be when they grow up, whereas older models

were asked about their regrets.

The full answers were then made available through the I Love Ugly flagship stores in a limited edition publication, which was also available for online order and at select international stockists.

The campaign is the latest in a long string of projects I Love Ugly has initiated to further develop its image of an inspirational brand that promotes creativity.

MENSWEARnews

Two renowned New Zealand brands have come together and produced a collaborative five-piece collection of rings. New Zealand jewellery company Walter Crow have worked with Barkers to develop two exclusive polished silver rings, which are an extension of the Initiation range.

The collection drew inspiration from Russian prison tattoos in the 1920s and adds to the already established bold style of Walter Crow.

The rings are available on the Barkers online store or through Barkers retail locations.

SUMMER INSPIRED BY WARM WEATHER AND LONG WEEKENDS Escapism played a big role in the inspiration behind Gubb & Mackie’s new Summer 2016, drawn to the warm weather and long weekends that saturate summer holidays.

Gubb & Mackie remained focussed on delivering accessible, made in New Zealand garments suitable for everyday use, featuring lightweight layering garments designed to be interchangeable and full of character.

The collection is a mixture of graphic prints and pastel colours executed in a loose open weave that allows for easy airflow in the summer heat.

PENCIL FINDS ITS WAY HOME

NEW TAILOR FOR ALL WHITES

New Zealand tailor and fashion brand, Rembrandt, has announced its new partnership with the New Zealand All Whites.

Rembrandt is now the official tailor for the South Sydney Rabbitohs, Wellington Phoenix, and the New Zealand All Whites.

The company is New Zealand’s only brand with a tailoring factory in New Zealand, having grown from a small Wellington workshop in 1946 to an international recognised bespoke menswear tailor.

10 I November 2015

It’s not often that collectible vintage promotional items like this pencil are for a contemporary company.

The boys at Alleluya café, which overlooks the Parisian building on Myers Park in central Auckland, found this beautiful gold, made in England pencil in the jar of a second hand store in St Kevin’s arcade and

presented it to John Crompton, Parisian’s managing director, when he called in for a coffee. “They just laid it on the coffee machine and waited for me to spot it,” said Crompton.

The pencil could date back to 1945.

footwear news

TRENDS AND TECHNOLOGY COLLIDE

FOOTWEARnews

Fashion footwear retailer, Ecco New Zealand has further bridged the gap between comfort and style with the release of its Intrinsic collection.

The range draws together high-end design features alongside technical refinements to best deliver a marketrelevant product for a fast paced consumer.

Direct-injected soles and zigzags across the foot of the shoe have been implemented to increase comfort and stability, while the collections aesthetic has been lifted to meet demand for a transitional and fashion forward sneaker.

The Ecco Intrinsic collection is available online or in store now.

PUMA’S NEW POP ART

German sportswear brand, Puma, have introduced a pop of colour with the release of its pop art inspired soccer cleats.

Distinctive pop art imagery ‘Bam!’ and ‘Pow!’ were chosen for the new style as a link to the cleat’s playing capability.

Improvements to the cleat’s flexability have also been made, which uses lightweight material to offer more support during quick movements.

The evoPower 1.2 will be worn on the field by top players including Cesc Fábregas, Mario Balotelli, Oliver Girould and Yaya Touré.

ONE SIZE FITS ALL

In conjunction with Oregon-based footwear business Proof of Concept, entrepreneur Kenton Lee has developed an adjustable shoe for African kids in need.

The idea came after Lee witnessed the crippling effects of ill-fitting footwear during a volunteering trip to an orphanage in Kenya.

“Without shoes, children in developing countries can’t get to school, they can’t run, jump or play. And more seriously, they are at risk of contracting life-threatening diseases,” said Lee. Lee thought to develop a shoe that adjusted in size as the wearer grew. The Shoe That Grows features buckles that can be adjusted in length and width constructed in a sturdy compressed rubber and leather.

“So many little kids had tears coming out of their eyes when they got a pair,” said Lee. An initial 8000 pairs have been produced and distributed, with a further 17,000 in the works.

In their

shoes

MARK BRITTON Designer, Deuce Generation Footwear designer Mark Britton had an interesting start in the fashion industry.

Graduating with a Bachelor of Industrial Design from the University of Cincinnati, Britton found his calling by combining design and function into footwear, taking elements of his creative drive and practical thinking to create products that are commercially successful.

Britton recently moved to New Zealand where he is responsible for the designs at Deuce Generation, most recently the collaboration between Deuce Generation and pro surfer Matt Hewitt.

“Matt and I talked a lot about exactly what we needed from the shoe. We talked about aesthetic, but for this is was really what the shoe needed to do,” said Britton.

Britton and Hewitt worked with each other to develop a range of footwear for the brand, in which Hewitt now serves as brand ambassador.

“They’ve become a part of my team and have welcomed me as part of

theirs,” said Hewitt.

Britton brings with him 12 years of global knowledge, having worked with some big name companies around the world including Adidas, Columbia Sportswear, Sorel and Overland.

“I really love some of the stuff from Japan. You could do some really crazy things and they would fly off the shelves,” said Britton.

According to Britton, collaboration is crucial but can often overwhelm the work with companies losing their identity to the collaboration and working on products that ultimately will not sell.

“It’s important to get your influence from where your consumer is. Where their head is at is where you need to be. A lot of people like to be hands off and dictate their aesthetic onto their consumer. And that’s just not acceptable these days.”

Consumer focus is the key defining style of Britton’s design, with an increased customer knowledge affecting the product.

“When you come out of school you have visions of grandeur an you want to change the world. But as time goes on you realise things need to be commercially successful, and my designs have become increasingly more realistic,” said Britton.

Although the collaboration between Deuce Generation and Hewitt is being manufactured in China, Britton said local industry needs more support and New Zealand needs to find a point of difference by providing a product only it could produce.

“There’s a lot of people that don’t want to necessarily affiliate themselves with the brand. Consumers are more commonly buying things that are a reflection of their taste and identity,” said Britton.

Innovative design comes from the creative solution to a problem, and for Britton this way of thinking is the driving force behind moving forward. He said every night he would list a series of problems and possible solutions in order to come up with the next big innovation, a process he said helps keep the mind active and open.

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techWATCH

THE MET ANNOUNCES TECHNOLOGY THEME

Arguably the most important themed event in the fashion calendar, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institution has announced next year’s theme, Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology.

The event will focus on the dichotomy between handmade haute couture and machine-made fashion. On display will be over 100 designs ranging from ready-to-wear to couture, with a 3D printing workshop also planned for the event.

techPROFILE By its very nature fashion is about innovation, utilising technology to create new and unique garments that in some instances can change an entire industry.

Augmented Reality (AR) is a new concept that has gained significant traction over the past quinquennium, with fashion being no exception.

Auckland University of Technology student Donna Cleveland has produced a dress that works in conjunction with the app ARfibres to bring the design to life on screen using AR technology.

“Using AR technology offered a platform for users to interact with the dress and therefore start a conversation about sustainable fashion design, revaluating our textiles and about fibre recycling,” said Cleveland.

The dress was specifically designed

12 I November 2015

APPLE DEBUTS SHOPPING CATEGORY

Technology giant, Apple, has launched a dedicated shopping category within the app store dedicated to providing apps relating to e-commerce.

The specific category features omni-channel, auctions, price comparison and product review apps that will continuously grow.

Alongside the introduction of Apple pay, the new shopping category will help retailers increase sales and discoverability. Since its introduction just over a year ago, retailers reported checkout rates have more than doubled.

Big name fashion retailers have already adopted the Apple Pay technology, with department store Nordstrom and online retailer Zappo’s both offering the payment method.

In celebration of the new Gear S2 smart watch from Samsung, the mobile technology company has collaborated with Stolen Girlfriends Club to release an exclusive capsule collection of leather watchstraps.

The limited edition straps are available for customers as a gift when they purchase the Gear S2 classic, which launched in early November.

“I’ll be honest, I haven’t been a huge fan of some of the smart watches being launched by brands lately – just because they look so techy, it doesn’t leave much option for people that are into fashion. So I was pretty excited when I first saw the classic, I knew instantly that a vintage styled strap would work great,” said Marc Moore, creative director, Stolen Girlfriends Club.

Technology companies moving into the wearable tech category have increasingly begun working with established fashion influences, with Hermés developing a limited edition strap and watch face for the Apple Watch and international watch brand Tag Heuer releasing its own branded smart watch in partnership with Google.

UBER TO DELIVER ONLINE ORDERS Following tests in April, Uber has launched its new Uber Rush service in New York, Chicago and San Francisco.

The same-day delivery service is available for businesses that use payment platforms including Shopify, BigCommerce and Clover in which they can integrate an Uber Rush delivery option for customers.

Uber Rush is free for businesses to opt

in; they can decide whether they will front the delivery bill or if the customer is responsible. The delivery costs are a flat rate, and average at $5 to $10.

During the initial tests, Shopify reported that 20 percent of its orders were delivered within a 32km radius, with customers often abandoning a sale if companies did not offer sameday delivery options.

Donna Cleveland Auckland University of Technology for Sarah Trotman for the 2015 AUT Excellence in Business Support Awards using recycled fibres from a dress made last year, reconfiguring them for this dress.

Cleveland’s design process falls in line with an international movement towards sustainable fashion, dubbed ‘slow-fashion’ in retaliation to the rapid production of low quality, unsustainable products the industry has made standard.

“Last year’s dress had wearable sensing technology, with galvanic sensors that read when moods changed, prompting the LED lights in the dress to change colour.”

With a grandfather who owned a textile mill in England, Cleveland has had a long love affair with fashion and textiles, watching her mother sew as she grew up.

Cleveland shares her passion for sustainable design in her position as lecturer at AUT, specialising in sustainable textile design, social engagement, and systems development for waste management. It’s her passion that has made her a PhD candidate for Colab, the research centre based within the faculty of Design and Creative Technologies at AUT. “My PhD project will develop change models and test new strategies

for engaging local industry. The project aims to bridge the gap between sustainability theory and practical application by employing a holistic, systematic approach.”

It’s no surprise that Cleveland’s inspiration is drawn from nature, given her expertise, maintaining her focus on sustainable fashion above all else.

“I think as consumers are becoming increasingly aware, the future of success for fashion designers will be their ability to be held accountable and to see this as an opportunity to tell their positive sustainable stories.”

Using the ARfibres app, codes within the fibres activate the AR technology creating a 3D effect on screen that adds a new and interesting aspect to contemporary fashion design.

“It was imperative that the dress was sustainable, but also beautiful and interesting in its own right, and then even more intriguing and engaging when you know its secret.”

Retailers around the world have embraced AR technologies in store, with brands including Topshop,

Shisedio Cosmetics, American Apparel, Ikea, Converse and Burberry all executing their own AR experience.

“The best thing I think I have done is to stay true to my principles no matter what or who I am faced with.

It’s harder than you think.”

Moving forward Cleveland plans to finish her PhD, hoping it will be the next step in attaining global sustainability for the fashion industry.

beauty news

BURLESQUE STAR TO LAUNCH LIPSTICK

MAC Cosmetics has paired up with Dita Von Teese again to produce a new signature lipstick right before the Christmas retail rush. The shade is set to be released on December 9 and will be available in all MAC locations.

“I’m grateful to have the opportunity to create my signature red lipstick. My MAC Von Teese shade evokes glamour and confidence,” said Von Teese.

In 2006 and 2007 Von Teese worked with MAC on the Viva Glam campaigns, but has also had a limited edition makeup range of her own, produced in 2012 by Artdeco.

BEAUTYnews

SEACREST ANNOUNCES BEAUTY LINE

In a partnership with Hollywood dermatologist Dr. Harold Lancer, Ryan Seacrest has announced he will be releasing a range of men’s skincare products.

The line is due to be released late 2016, with details about what it will entail still to come.

“What makes this men’s line different is that in addition to making it easy to use, it’s developed for the specific structure and composition of men’s skin,” said Lancer.

SPRAY ON NAIL POLISH

English-based nail bar chain, Nails Inc, has developed two new spray on nail polishes.

The nail polish works by sticking to a base coat on the nail, with the excess being washed off by soap and water.

Currently the new spray on polish is available in silver and neon pink, but Nails Inc said they plan to release five new shades early next year.

“We know our customer is time-poor, so anything that gives a longer-lasting manicure, less drying time, or faster application is always of interest,” said Thea Green, founder, Nails Inc. The two shades had been previously impossible to execute in a traditional nail polish, but because of the Paint Can formula, are now shelf stable.

NYX LANDS IN FARMERS

For the first time, Nyx Cosmetics is being retailed in New Zealand at the newly opened Farmers on Auckland’s Queen Street.

Alongside Nyx on the ground floor are YSL, Lancome, Revlon, Clarins, Clinique, Estee Lauder, and Shiseido.

“It is our commitment to ensure shoppers have unparalleled access not only to the very best products the company has to offer but also to a place they’ll love to shop. We are both excited about and extremely proud of what we have created,” said Rod McDermott, chief executive, Farmers.

Nyx Cosmetics started as a small trade show brand and has grown to be an internationally recognised cosmetics company heralded for its use of social media to build a global audience that includes over 4 million Instagram followers.

Apparel 21 is fashionware.

beautyPROFILE

ERP solutions for the fashion industry that improve your business performance.

• Planning/OTB

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Management

Phone: +61 3 8415 9300 Email: info@Apparel21.com www.Apparel21.com apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 13

radar

LYLA&BO Michelle Moore, founder and creative mind behind LYLA&BO, has

GOOD WINTER Simple and warm, handy with a sense of purpose and an elegant edge, this is what best describes the essence of Good Winter, according to its founder Jared Fa’asalele.

The Auckland-based brand has been on the market since December 2014, offering top-quality leather accessories crafted in New Zealand. A graduate from Fashion Tech with hands-on experience in every aspect of the industry, Jared became a designer to create things that he could not find anywhere else.

“Fashion and illustration was always an interest, but I didn’t really think it was a path for a stocky Samoan boy. I only decided at 24 that it was a direction I really wanted to follow,” Jared said.

Today Good Winter produces and sells leather bucket bags, totes and goods, but at first Jared had other ideas in mind.

“I originally set out to make outerwear, coats and jackets. For me fashion is the best thing about winter and the name Good Winter sat well with what we wanted to do.

Then I found an interest in leather and the name just stayed with us,” Jared said.

What he enjoys about working with fabrics like leather and denim is their resistance, which allows for age and wearing, giving each piece a different character. The use of warm earth tones adds to the coziness.

This fortunate mix of form and function is aimed at all ages and all genders, with a special target on practical, active persons. ”Someone who uses his or her belongings.

We love seeing our totes packed full of books or our buckets spilling out with wallets and make-up,” Jared said.

Good Winter is currently available online on goodwinter.co.nz and at stores in Grey Lynn, Britomart and Newmarket. Besides looking for more stockists around New Zealand, they also work to keep competitive prices by enhancing their e-commerce.

Moreover, Jared wishes to embark on a longer-term mission. “Leather is a dying trade, and with manufacturing in New Zealand so scarce, why would anyone want to take a career path in a job that has no security? A lot of knowledge dies with the baby-boomers.

So we hope to pay it forward and pass on the skillset, teaching a younger generation and setting up workshops,” Jared said.

For more information, email info@ goodwinter.co.nz.

14 I November 2015

REVIE

built her brand on three fundamental principles, quality, aesthetic and price.

“First and foremost is quality. At the end of the day, this is why I started the brand. I want people to look at the product and feel as though it was worth every dollar they spent on it,” Moore said.

The story traces back to 2013. At that time, Moore was living in Canada, struggling with neverending winters and unwilling to settle for a conventional beanie, she noticed a void in the market for simple, stylish and yet affordable hats. LYLA&BO was created to fill that gap.

“When launching the label I only created two pieces, the Chloe (black) and the Chelsea (blue). Both hats were oversized in style and had a super girly boho vibe to them. The two styles sold out in just over two months. I then followed it with a five-piece collection ‘The City For Lovers’ which I shot in New York City the following year,” Moore said.

A true traveller at heart, she was born in England but soon moved along with her family to Brisbane, Australia, and settled there until graduating from QUT in 2012, when she obtained a Bachelor of Creative Industries majoring in Fashion and Business. Right after graduation, she finally began feeding her wanderlust, travelling throughout Europe, Canada and the US for a few years. Meanwhile, Moore never lost her love of fashion and crafting, and it was only a matter of time before she made a career out of it.

“Designing and sewing was something that always came naturally to me. I remember cutting up my year seven graduation dress, changing the straps, adding some beading and then resewing it back together. That was just something that I did, I never really thought of it as a path to becoming a designer. It just kind of happened.”

Moore loves basics and mostly wears simple, neutral colours like black, grey and white. Generally using basic darker shades, LYLA&BO has a universal vibe to it that clearly reflects her aesthetic.

As for her fall-winter fabrics of choice, Moore focuses on leather and wool, especially soft cashmere wool blends, whereas for the next summer collection she has been trying out different types of straws. On the whole, this versatility is what gives the brand its soul.

“LYLA&BO has quite a varied customer base. Accessories are so universal and you don’t have to be the most fashion conscious to wear them. It’s all very interpretive and that’s what I love the most about accessories, you can make them your own,” Moore said.

Although the label was initially launched in Canada, LYLA&BO is currently based out of Brisbane and available in four countries (Australia, New Zealand, US and UK), whilst concrete expansion plans in Canada are on the horizon. More countries could follow suit.

In the meantime, the brand has enriched its initial offering and now also sells intimates, leather bags and fine jewellery, including a lot of delicate sterling silver pieces.

For more information, email info@lylaandbo.com or visit www. lylaandbo.com.

Launched in Auckland in early 2014, REVIE is an emerging footwear label that is committed to quality material and construction. Founder Katie Revie’s conception of the REVIE label developed while studying Architecture at Victoria University in Wellington.

“I looked at intimate forms of architecture.

A house is a form of skin to protect us as footwear is housing and protection from environmental conditions for our feet,” said Revie.

The first collection was entitled ‘Inception’ and inspiration was drawn from Revie’s student years in Wellington where function required flat, durable shoes.

This has developed into a unique brand aesthetic, based on function first following the lines of the body to create a strong sculptural aesthetic, resulting in houses for the feet.

REVIE’S customers encompass people who share an affinity for natural looking, good quality, handmade leather shoes.

So far, the focus has been on releasing two collections a year, a Spring/ Summer range and an Autumn/Winter range but with the imminent opening of a flagship store in Auckland (78 Ponsonby Road), plans are in the pipeline to introduce a staples range to be released seasonally in new colour variations.

Focus for this fast-growing label is to establish a good physical presence for the brand and growing the brand identity within New Zealand and abroad.

For more information contact info@revie.co.nz

SOCOCO

AMBER CHLOE

Before she moved to Melbourne in 2006 and started calling it her home, Amber Koeman had been living a global life, growing up in eight different countries including Japan, Taiwan, Indonesia, Hong Kong, England and the US. Her brand ‘amber chloe’, dubbed after her first and middle name, takes inspiration from this exceptional melting pot of cultures and lifestyles.

“My time experiencing new cultures and meeting new people has really influenced the aesthetic of amber chloe, especially my time in Hong Kong. People weren’t afraid to take risks there and were always one step ahead of the trends,” Koeman said. At the same time, though, the label has its roots firmly planted in Melbourne, each one of its garments being manufactured there and inspired by the city’s edgy sophistication.

Sometimes fashion runs in the family, and that’s definitely Koeman’s case, since her parents were involved in the industry, she was always surrounded by it to some degree. This led her to pursue a career in a creative field and, after a fiveyears experience in marketing and communications, in 2014 Koeman finally took a leap forward by establishing her own fashion design business. It certainly was not out of the blue.

“I have always known what style or fabric I wanted to wear, and what look I was going for. Still, it was hard to get what I wanted, a formal dress that was both unique and affordable, so I began drawing my own outfits. That’s when I realised I was onto something,” Koeman said.

Since the beginning, the brand’s core idea was to provide modern women with glamourous, high quality, locally-produced clothing. “An amber chloe woman won’t compromise on quality. She’s always on the lookout for pieces that show off her unique style and let her stand out from the crowd. Our aesthetic is classic, but with an edge, because I believe a woman should never show too much,” Koeman said.

Her first collection, still available for sale, featured a silver striped leather dress made with European leather, which is Koeman’s favourite fabric to work with, besides lace. Metallics, neutrals and shades of blue add to the label’s seasonless simplicity.

Three collections are set to be launched every year.

Currently, amber chloe’s pieces can be found on its online store (www.amberchloe.com) as well as in selected boutiques in Melbourne and Mosman, New South Wales, and within the next two years the brand could even open its flagship store. Future plans involve expanding in Queensland, Western Australia and overseas, getting more global recognition.

Until then, amber chloe and her founder have to face the hurdles of any new label. “Finding the balance between the creative and the business sides of things is a continuous challenge, and I also strive to make space in my day to think and create. But I strongly believe that in every challenge lies a lesson. Needless to say, I’ve learned many lessons along the way, and all of them have helped amber chloe grow in the right direction,” Koeman said.

For more information, email info@amberchloe.com.

Sococo Superfood Skincare is a series of 100 percent Australian and 100 percent cruelty-free skincare products, based on organic coconut oil and its byproducts.

But that’s not all. The Company has extended its range to include beach towels. It’s no secret that round towels are the hottest thing hitting beaches this summer and with a simple innovation, Sococo is transporting them to the next level. The round poncho beach towel is fast becoming this season’s summer must-have.

“We’ve taken the round towel and turned it into a striking, multipurpose garment that functions not only as a towel, but as a poncho too,” says Sococo co-founder Hayley Johnston.

Sococo’s round towel depends on an ingenious innovation in the form of an aperture to form a poncho. It doubles up as instant sun protection, wind breaker and private, portable change room.

“The beauty of the round poncho towel is that it leaves both hands free. Slipping in and out of one’s cossie has never been so easy,” said Johnston.

Sococo prides itself on facilitating good health in combination with cutting-edge fashion.

Taking inspiration from runway-ruling designs for 2015-16, the company’s round poncho towels sport a mix of geometric patterns and tribal prints. Bright orange - dubbed the season’s new black - swims alongside aqua marine, conjuring up brilliant visions of a lush, tropical paradise.

With a Sococo round poncho towel in hand, a beach-goer no longer has to worry about the elements.

For more information go to admin@sococoskincare.com.au

SPEAKEASY CO. Speakeasy Co. is a new brand of handbrewed, hand-crafted soy wax candles.

Katie Chrystal is the designer behind the brand that officially launched in April earlier this year. Originally from Perth, she and her partner operate out of a little candle studio on a popular café and bar strip in Surry Hills, Sydney. Katie previously studied art direction as well as advertising and marketing, and always loved creativity and anything that would allow her to look away from the computer screen and get back to using her hands. The first candle vessel she ever made started on a Saturday night, when she and her partner used fire and ice to cut recycled beer bottles. They then started brewing wax and adding oils, going round to local bars at night asking for empty beer bottles – hence

the name. Each candle is still hand-poured in batches of ten to keep consistency in the brewing. The colours and design are intentionally minimal and basic, in keeping with the brand aesthetic which is minimal, unique and peaceful. And the fragrances are delicious. At the moment they are selling one size candle that burns for 40 hours but next year will see the launch of an 80 hour burn candle. Currently the candles are stocked in boutiques around Australia but Katie is keen to expand operations internationally.

For more information, please contact team@speakeasy.com.au; go to the website speakeasyco.com.au.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 15

colour trending

Animal Kingdom Designers embraced their primal instincts this season, delivering a wild display of animal inspired collections. Fit for the concrete jungle, these designs highlight the natural influence of the animal kingdom and the extensive offering of textile inspirations.

Dolce & Gabbana expanded on the popular androgynous theme, dressing models in masculine accessories and shapes, executed in feminine fabrics and prints. The strong animal print, similar in colour to Resene Pumpkin, ran throughout the collection giving the models a wild girl attitude when paired with the almost punk inspired detailing.

Givenchy turned taboo into fashion, taking imagery of a stark black cat and applying it to the designs. The effect is a mysterious and seductive range of outfits, with the cat imagery repeated throughout the entire runway. Similar in colour to Resene Avalanche, the black catches

BURBERRY Resene Blackjack

16 I November 2015

the light just enough for it not to be lost, but is dark enough that it retains its allure.

Gucci paired snakeskin with fur and somehow still made the model look like an African wilderness explorer. The jacket, similar in colour to Resene Sunflower, has a complex pattern that guides the eye around the look, drawing attention to the exaggerated fur collar before reaching the safari style hat.

Just Cavalli was more glamorous with its treatment of animal print, opting to focus strongly on statement accessories and textured garments. The handbags were adorned with a classic leopard print pattern that, paired with the luxurious gowns, didn’t appear as inexpensive as it would on the street. The dress, which is akin in colour to Resene Toast, lifts the overall look and creates a delicate synergy between the strong accessories, ultimately ending in a strong high-fashion look.

DOLCE & GABBANA Resene Pumpkin

GIVENCHY Resene Avalanche

Burberry delivered animal print, fur and glamour all in the same collection with a simple zebra motif. Like Resene Blackjack, the colour coupled with white offers a simple palette. The print was executed in fur, cotton and accessories, which offers something for everyone depending on their adventurous spirit.

In typical Mugler style, the collection was a series of dark seductive pieces. The plush fur sleeves complimented the sheer leopard print slip, similar in colour to Resene Night Moves, with nothing left to the imagination.

“I wanted to bring the fun back. I want to look at fashion from within and outside the industry,” said Nicola Formichetti, designer, Mugler.

Topshop’s runway label Unique also took a playful approach to its design, dressing models up in mouse ears paired with a Dalmatian print that featured throughout the range. This trench coat, similar in colour to Resene Half Cloud

GUCCI Resene Sunflower

MUGLER Resene Night Moves

without the excess styling of the runway delivers what Topshop Unique set out to do, produce commercially successful garments that can hold their own on the runway.

Overall, whether it be a skin, fur, print or bag the animal kingdom was ever present and translated into high fashion designs that were either fit for the street or just for fun, but with all runway designs, are always capable of being styled to fit each individual wearer.

Colours available from

Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363

TOPSHOP UNIQUE Resene Half Cloud

JUST CAVALLI Resene Toast

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 17

photoshoot

1

Elise wears FRED Victoria necklace, LE SPECS Wild Child Sunglasses, CARENA WEST Olivia Lace Up One Piece in Polar, REBE Resort Fedora in Whitewash.

2

Danika wears FRED Chloe Choker, SURFCLUB Mermaid bikini, STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB Joshua’s Tree Suede Short.

3

Elise wears SURFCLUB Pamela togs in Red and TWENTY-SEVEN NAMES Paris Tee. Danika wears FRED Chloe Choker, ROLLA’S Rib Miller Tee, MINKPINK Lovestruck sunglasses and REBE Muse Jet hat.

4

Elise wears REBE Resort Fedora in Whitewash, STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB Magic Mesh Crop Tee & Magic Mesh Triangle Bra and FRED Abbey Chain.

1

2

POOLSIDE

3

18 I November 2015

4

photographer CAITLAN MITCHELL models ELISE and DANIKA at 62 Models with thanks to PONSONBY PONY CLUB for pool accessories and L & L Davie for venue

business profile

BUSINESS PROFILE:

BARKERS This month Apparel sat down with Paul Biddle, James Whiting and Glenn Cracknell from the Barkers head office to talk about how the brand originally known for its signature track pants has evolved to become one of the most well recognised and well received menswear chain stores in New Zealand, celebrating its 43rd birthday this year.

This month Apparel sat down with Paul Biddle, James Whiting and Glenn Cracknell from the Barkers head office to talk about how the brand, originally known for its signature track pants, has evolved to become one of the most well recognised and well received menswear chain stores in New Zealand, celebrating its 43rd birthday this year.

Seeing an opportunity in the market, Ray Barker founded the Barkers brand in 1972. Barkers was considered to be pioneering for its time, opening on Saturday mornings despite other department stores opposing the Saturday trade. Originally called Raymond’s, Ray built the business up from a standalone store on Auckland’s Queen Street, taking it from one store into chain stores throughout New Zealand. It was one of the first fashion chains at the time. The brand looked to change things up and do things differently, including producing super-fitting polyester shirts which were considered fashionforward for the time. Barkers went through the track pants era, which saw the signature printed track pants with the Barkers name down the side created. Barkers sold 50,000 units of the pants in the early 1990s, quite a significant feat at the time. In early 2000, Ray sold out, with new business partners carrying on the brand. The change of ownership started to lose connection with the brand’s founding philosophy, which was always about fashion quality and style.

Production of the iconic Barkers printed track pants

20 I November 2015

discontinued. From the mid to late 2000s, the brand treaded water and ‘lost its way’ a little bit. At this point group managing director James Whiting, general manager merchandising and brand Paul Biddle and general manager retail and operations Glenn Cracknell came on board and started working on the brand’s turnaround. From 2010 there has been growth in collections as well as geographical locations.

“By the time we came on board in 2010, Barkers was suffering a bit financially. We had to reposition the brand to where it was in its heyday, style more than trend focused. Every aspect of the business went through massive change, including store fit out and concepts. There wasn’t one part of the business that we didn’t rip apart and start over. We had to be brutal, we would exit out of non-profitable stores, and honed in on core markets,” Whiting said.

Collection wise, Barkers changed to be lifestyle brand, suiting the customer and what he likes to do.

The company also worked on a turnaround strategy, increasing stores in major cities. A combination of clear vision, and creating great culture within the brand is credited for Barkers’ greater success.

“We had a really clear vision about what we wanted the brand to stand for. We were really focused on what we set out to do, and focused on delivering a clear strategy for the brand. The culture of the entire business’s service levels that we provide are second to none,” Whiting said.

Barkers originally had a rock ‘n’ roll culture, in the 80s and 90s it was the ‘hip place to be’. The brand’s style is very relaxed, which resonates right down to the pool table at the head office.

“It started with encouraging the whole business to get on board. We shared the vision from day one,” Whiting said.

One of the key focuses for the company is continuing to connect with the target audience, and understand what the Barkers brand is about. The monumental growth over the past five years is all down to the connection with customers. The store footprint is also getting larger, and Barkers now offers other services, including barbers and coffee in-store.

The Barkers client base has matured over the years, but there are also new customers coming on board.

“The key target for us is not an age but a lifestyle and frame of mind. We’ve got loyal VIPs from the 1990s. In the 90s the company launched a Club Barkers VIP scheme, some of these customers are still with us,” Whiting said.

Whiting said that 25-45 years old is the sweet spot for Barkers customers, but adds the brand appeals to men of all ages who connect with the lifestyle product Barkers offers.

“We want to make sure the brand doesn’t grow old.

It’s important the brand stays targeted at who we’re aimed at, and keeping it fresh. There are plenty of fashion brands that grow old with their customers,

but for us keeping it anchored is very important.

Locally, we tailor to the environment. New Zealand is very unique in terms of our climate so we do it all. High Street in London doesn’t always to relate to Kiwis here, so we introduce our customer to new things slowly,” Biddle said.

The company’s communication and engagement with customers has changed. These days it’s about the consumer connecting with Barkers when and how it suits them, whether that be via social media such as Instagram and Facebook, email, or via the brand’s magazine which comes out twice a year.

“We try to keep the tone quite consistent, as well as offering money can’t buy experiences. We do gifting at Christmas to top customers, something they wouldn’t expect,” Cracknell said.

A few years ago there was a view in the industry on whether bricks and mortar or online was going to win. Barkers’ thoughts on their bricks and mortar offering versus their online offering is that the two complement each other.

“Bricks and mortar is where the brand comes to life. You can’t feel the product, or get a coffee and a haircut online,” Whiting said.

The tangible aspect of bricks and mortar attracts customers who want a brand experience and online offers convenience, but the two often work together in convergence, he added. Overseas consumers are often expats who know the brand, with Australia being Barkers top country for online overseas consumers.

“Experimental retail is becoming more important.

It’s about combining the experience and convenience for the customer. We have equally important strategies for both bricks and online, it’s about making them work in tandem. Customers want to be able to go in and touch the product,” Whiting said.

Recent achievements for Barkers include winning a Purple Pin at the BEST Awards run by the Design Institute NZ. Judges select recipients of the Purple Pin for supreme excellence. Barkers won the category for Best Effect design across all facets of the business and what impact that has had in financial achievement.

Cracknell noted that this excellence predominantly came off the back of really good relationships with the Barkers brand and store design partners.

Other brand achievements include opening new flagship concept stores in Auckland’s High Street, and Wellington’s Lambton Quay.

“For a local brand to move into something that

looked like it had come from the streets of Chicago or New York was a real achievement for Barkers,” Cracknell said.

In Wellington, the Lambton Quay store moved 200 metres up the road to a 350 square metre store, which was a massive commitment to the business to offer a store that big. The High Street store is the largest in New Zealand at 460 square metres which has full offering of Barkers products, collaboration brands, an in-house barista, and a Barkers Groom Room barber shop.

“Experimental retail is becoming more important. It’s about combining the experience and convenience for the customer.”

As part of the company’s product strategy, Barkers has several collaborations with local businesses as well as offshore. Over the past four years Barkers has worked with iconic brands such as Parisian, McKinlays Shoes, Surfline Surfboards, Woolyarns – Perino Knitwear, woolen travel rugs with Bruce Woollen Mills and Interweave, JVK Rakino Weekend Fragrance, Volvo Cars, T Whites Bikes and Blunt Umbrellas to create designer collaborations. Barkers’ collaboration with Swanndri has been the biggest for the company so far.

“There’s a push trend-wise when partnering with a brand that has heritage. They have to fit with what we achieve, and see it as long term collaboration, as well as sharing the same values and ideas with people we partner with,” Biddle said.

The Surfline Surfboards collaboration involved surfinspired clothing with surfboard shaper Roger Hall, who is based in Ruakaka. Barkers recently created their first ever fragrance, JVK Rakino Weekend Fragrance, further expanding on the emphasis of

a lifestyle brand. International collaborations have included brands such as Levis, Converse and Timex.

Barkers does extensive fit outs of its stores and each have themes.

“We look at the market and what the area has to offer. The theme for the St Lukes store is all around cycling and bikes and we collaborated with T White Bikes to custom make bikes which are on display in store. We try to connect the theme of the store to its region where appropriate to give it an authentic feel,” Cracknell said.

The stores are bespoke and everything is manufactured locally. The brief for the first concept store at The Base in Hamilton was that it had to be real, authentic and not mass produced, so everything was handmade. Barkers employ a local cabinet maker and craftsman who has been working with the brand for over 30 years when Ray was running the business.

He hand makes every piece of furniture, which again connects back to the company’s original philosophy of quality and style.

“We wanted the stores to stand out from the crowd and have a point of difference. The High Street store is located in a beautiful 1930s Heritage listed building and was a bar for the last two decades, so the design is a play on the 1930s prohibition bootleg theme and is one of the most authentic store concepts. On the flipside of being most true to area is the Queenstown store. We went quite opposite and did a 1950s loft style apartment as we wanted to stand out,” Cracknell said.

The retail division of Barkers has also reinvented and expanded recently with coffee and groom rooms.

The High Street store is the first in New Zealand offering coffee. There are now 29 stores across New Zealand, with the 30th currently being built in Christchurch.

Looking ahead, Barkers’ biggest challenge is keeping the brand fresh, relevant and exciting for the customer. The brand also has the biggest few weeks of the year now with Christmas coming up.

“The key thing for us is we tend not to look too externally. We really don’t listen to what we should or shouldn’t do, but trust our instincts to do what we feel is right for the brand. We don’t sit still. The question is always what’s next, and staying one step ahead. We keep our foot to the floor and keep moving. While focusing on Barkers’ own backyard, looking further than New Zealand is on the radar,” Whiting said.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 21

behind the business

nuts&BOLTS

Dennis Yearbury Sales Manager, Parisian

Dennis Yearbury started work as the sales manager for Parisian 15 years ago and he is as passionate about his job today as he was when he started out.

Living in Mangere Bridge, he went straight from school into retail, working in a series of menswear chains. Yearbury quickly became passionate about the menswear industry and loved interacting with the reps who visited the stores.

“One of the great things about working in accessories, is the variety. Accessories, in particular ties, are the highlight of men’s attire. New trends in colours and designs appear first in the smaller items. So it’s always changing. Never a dull moment.”

Armed with passion and the gift of the gab, Yearbury moved into wholesale at Lane, Walker and Rudkin, followed by Bendon, before joining Parisian.

“One of my career highlights was when I was working at Bendon, the Elle Macpherson line was launched and I was lucky enough to sit next to her at dinner. The industry was amazed at how we landed her. When asked how we did it, I remember Bendon replying ‘we just asked’. That was a key lesson that I learned. My advice to young reps is to just ask,” said Yearbury.

History is the backbone of Parisian, and Yearbury has seen his fair share of designs come out of the workroom.

“During the first America’s cup defence, Parisian designed a tie with a central motif of a kiwi on the back of a bald eagle, with feathers about.”

As sales manager at Parisian, Yearbury is responsible for all of its independent customers and manages representatives throughout the country as well as some key multi-store accounts.

“During the 90’s and early 2000’s it was hard hearing customers tell us that people didn’t care where things were made, as we witnessed an influx of cheaper quality imports. But this has completely turned on its head now with a genuine call for our made in New Zealand product. We’re really glad we stuck to our roots and worked hard to make sure that our quality got better and better,” said Yearbury.

Aside from sales-related issues, he is also involved in product development.

“Parisian is a fourth generation family business.

Everyone is involved in the business and I no longer just do a sales job. It is easy to evolve in a smaller family business as there are no defined levels or business structures as there are in big companies.”

Parisian is a niche specialist that manufactures men’s accessories under their own brands including Parisian,

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Fellini and Kiwi Country, alongside various other brands across Australasia.

The constant changing environment has led to a revolution in the men’s accessory industry, with demand for casual neckwear picking up. Yearbury also said there is still space for multi-brand boutiques.

“The casual office trend has been around for over 20 years and I believe has done its cycle. The tie as an accessory is more relevant now than it has been in decades. There is a new generation of tie wearers who don’t view it as part of business attire. So we have an increasingly popular selection of casual ties, with washed colours and softer fabrics, often combining alternative yarns like cotton, linen and wool, which is a step aside from the traditional lustre of silk and microfibre,” said Yearbury.

At the forefront of its industry, Parisian have developed some of the most commercially successful accessory designs.

“We have been working with one of our Italian family weavers for as many generations as we have been making ties. John [Crompton, managing director] spotted a painting by one of the family members on a recent visit. The artwork was printed onto a base of linen and cotton to give it a canvas effect. We did a limited run of this design in our luxe collection and it flew out the door within a week. It’s so distinctive and with a real story behind it.”

Yearbury commented that selling a fridge was not the same as selling men’s accessories and that the job was all about passion and being genuinely inspired and interested in the line that was being sold. It is just that passion that sees him still do the one and half hour commute from Pukekohe into the city every morning and evening, 15 years on.

“I just love being here and selling lines that I am involved in and proud of.”

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STUDENTlife

Grace Redgrave Massey University

With a strong history of culture, Grace Redgrave spent her childhood growing up in a family of winemakers.

Travel, freedom and the drive to experiment run deep in Redgrave’s blood, passions she brings to her designs.

“From a young age I did a lot of painting, drawing, writing and photography, but only had sparse access to sewing teachers,” said Redgrave.

It wasn’t until she had her first fashion design class at Massey University did Redgrave flourish, becoming engrossed in the technical elements of the design process and construction.

Currently finishing up her final year at Massey, Redgrave has taken a strong stance in the sustainable fashion movement, inspired by the China Bue documentary she saw on her first day at university.

“When a garment has been produced by ethical hands and designed eco-consciously then I want to wear it everyday and tell everyone about it, I feel good,” said Redgrave Ethical design processes and fair worker treatment have been a long argued area of fashion as the industry progresses further into a mass-market, but new graduates are often compelled to reconsider what fashion means to the wearer, and how slow fashion can produce products that are long lasting with a significant meaning for the customer.

Like all good design ideas, Redgrave’s zero-waste designs stemmed from an important issue; how do we create clothes that are good for the world? Her holistic approach to construction, patternmaking and design

happens simultaneously, working towards a zero-waste goal.

“Ultimately I want to be working around India and Pakistan and utilising their unique skills under an established brand. I want to learn techniques from other cultures and understand how the West and East can work together ethically and sustainably to ensure we are restoring crafts, not abusing systems or people and working together to create a lasting story.”

With that in mind, it is no surprise natural, lightweight fabrics are staples for Redgrave. Favouring the freedom of cotton and linen, Redgrave is creating garments that are comfortable and non-restrictive so you will always feel yourself.

Coupled with pockets of memories that serve as inspiration, Redgrave is looking to expand her horizons with a trip to the Outback and India in conjunction with her master’s degree in 2016.

“There are many establishments working with Western brands that I am dead keen to get involved in.”

The dream for Redgrave is to be situated between New Zealand and the Eastern region, overseeing production and teaching of skills that can be shared with the Western market.

“I will be living in as many worlds as possible driving a company towards conscious, ethical, sustainable zerowaste design.”

when I need to work out the details of the garments.

My favourite part is seeing everything come together.

Once construction starts you really start to see the garment come to life how you imagined it.”

On graduation, Parker plans to continue developing her personal aesthetic, with specific focus on developing her skills in print as it continues to be a big part of her

design process.

“I’d like to have my own successful label, or have a design job at a label that matches my aesthetic and values.”

Parker also said she wants to travel with her designs, gathering as much international experience and inspiration as possible.

Sarah Parker Massey University

As a testament to the power of print, Sarah Parker’s journey towards fashion design begun in the pages of a fashion magazine. From here she took classes in high school before eventually beginning her tertiary degree at Massey University.

“I grew up in Nelson, my family is very creative and I have always been interested in design and art. I wanted to study interior design, but switched to fashion because of the way clothing can make people feel,” said Parker.

Parker draws her inspiration from big name designers Raf Simmons, Emma Mullholland and Walter van Beirendonck, to which she is influenced to produce high-quality, fashion-forward work that is commercially viable.

Close attention to detail and construction are Parker’s trademarks; she has a strong passion for pattern making and quality fabric, two key elements that can make a big difference.

Truly creative, Parker designs begin with a sketch to which she will draw and draw again, working through ideas until it comes time to physically conceptualise details.

“For me, construction comes further down the track

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 23

retailEYE

Route 66 opened its doors in November 1988 in what was the old Newmarket Post Office, 180 Broadway, Newmarket. Original owner Kevyn Male was already well known in the fashion retail industry, 30 years before, he created the ‘The Three Bears’ store which was widely accepted as a fashion landmark in Auckland during the 80s and 90s.

“One of the main reasons behind Route 66 was the growth of Three Bears fashion store.

For a number of years the store had been selling denim but due to space constraints and the growth of Levi’s and other denim labels, it was decided to look for a separate store to specialise just in denim. And it turned out to be right next door to Three Bears,” said now owner Todd Male, Kevin’s son.

Although the look and design is somewhat different to what it is today, it is still situated in exactly the same spot, with just an extra digit in the phone number.

“Our first 12 years were in a building that was built in 1924, hardly any natural light, very cold, and it leaked. Now we are part of a seven level glass and concrete edifice that was

Todd Male

ROUTE 66 CELEBRATES 27 YEARS OF RETAIL

constructed in 2000,” said Todd.

“I knew the old building intimately, I even lived upstairs for five years, I still serve people from the counter where it stands today, which is just two metres to the left of the counter in the old store, so in 27 years, I’ve really only moved two metres.”

Launched to sell primarily denim labels, the store has not wandered far from its roots.

“In the early years, denim accounted for approximately 75 percent of weekly turnover and nowadays, it is still very big at around 65 percent of what we sell every week,” said Todd.

“The most popular brands are G-Star jeans, Levi’s, and Neuw. These three brands account for half of the weekly sales.”

Route 66 still has a strong American feel, and the goal is to continue to maintain it since there is such a strong connection to the USA in the origins of denim jeans, the heritage of many of the bands and, of course, the name of the store.

“My Dad used to travel a lot, especially to the States, one day he comes back with all this souvenirs, like a 20 foot container full of stuff. Petrol pumps, cacti, tumbleweed, cow horns, road signs, etc, all sourced from along the famous highway Route 66, so it was like

key PIECE

PARISIAN STRIPE Now it might be in a t-shirt or sweater, but the standout key piece of 2015 is the Parisian stripe. Not only is it a timeless classic, but it’s also all over the runway. The uses are endless, and the stripes will work with anything in your customer’s repertoire.

It’s thanks to Coco Chanel that we have the modern Parisian striped shirt. In 1917, Chanel introduced her interpretation of the shirt in retaliation to the then heavily corseted approach to fashion, following a trip to France’s Southern coast. The shirts were inspired by Parisian fisherman who worked the docks, and it was the first time utilitarianism was used as an inspiration for high-end fashion design.

While it often inspires fear in self-conscious buyers, keep in mind that there is a way for everyone to wear the striped shirt; be mindful to educate your shopper because they won’t regret the purchase. Alison Freer talked in her book ‘How To Get Dressed’ about the 90/10 rule, and is something your customer should know about.

“A good equation to follow for stripe placement is 10 percent of the darker colour and 90 percent of the lighter,” said Freer.

If you’re careful about the stripe you are wearing, the possibilities are endless. Pair it with a long coat, or wear it down with shorts and flats for the beach. Whatever the occasion or time, the striped shirt will be your best friend and versatile weapon for any type of dress.

24 I November 2015

Ties: Pierre Cardin

well what else would you call your store?” said Todd.

Classic cars are also part of the store’s look and they are hard to miss as they are literally parked inside the store.

“They are supplied by friends and friends of friends.

I often start chatting to customers who admire the vehicles when they’re in the store. One thing leads to another and it turns out they know someone who has a classic car in storage. A few weeks later it’s on display in Route 66,” said Todd.

Internet sites offering free shipping to New Zealand, staying relevant to an ever changing market and increases in Auckland City rates, not to mention brand loyalty to an independent single store retailer, are just some of the challenges that this store has had to face but to have stayed in the business for 27 years, it must have been doing something right.

Looking back, Todd admits that the timing was good.

“We were the only truly independent jean store in all of Auckland, so we captured a market and became established. The retail model was also firmly in place from the Three Bears and Route 66 was an extension of that solid foundation,” said Todd.

“The late 90’s was a key time for fresh blood, ie.

Family, to take over and manage the store and being part of shopping precinct that evolved to become Auckland’s, and arguably New Zealand’s, premier shopping district has certainly been instrumental in the longevity. Without our staff we would never have made 27 years.”

Plans for 2016 are already in the pipeline. Watch this space.

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apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 25

behind the business E INDUSTRY TH

Murray Bevan AC

CO

O RDIN G T

...

Photo by Katherine Lowe

SUCCESS UNDER

30 Jess Grubiša and Madeleine Harman from

HARMAN GRUBIŠA

26 I November 2015

The fashion industry, for me, was a completely unknown entity when I was growing up. I wanted to be a fighter pilot, like my Dad, then moved on to dreams of becoming a hotel manager, then graphic designer, then an Architect. The latter stuck with me, and I undertook a Bachelor of Architectural Studies at Unitec until the day came that I got a break working for Karen Walker.

My sister, Angela, worked for Karen in retail, and attended a staff meeting one night where Mikhail (Karen’s husband and the brand’s Creative Director) asked the girls if they knew “anyone like Scooter from the Fraggles”. In other words, someone unassuming who’s just going to geek out and get things done. My sister nominated me, and the rest is history.

I worked for Karen doing odd jobs in the office and helping the Operations Manager, and a half day a week soon grew to one day, then two, during my time at Unitec. I was soon out at Karen and Mikhail’s house in West Auckland helping plant trees and weed their expansive property, starting a friendship that has lasted ever since.

I wouldn’t be where I am without Angela, Karen and Mikhail. Karen took me on as her Personal Assistant after I decided to take a year off from Architecture, and soon I was given the title of Media Liaison, helping co-ordinate the company’s off-shore showrooms in Sydney, Tokyo, New York and eventually London. My experience working with the media and PR agencies showed me that we needed to expand our local industry and provide the same service here in New Zealand.

The jump between now and then has been huge, and the changes monumental. I was told that a dedicated fashion PR company in New Zealand wouldn’t survive.

Now there are at least six, and there have been others that have come and gone, or widened their scope to also include beauty, events or commercial PR. For me, the highlights are plentiful, but I don’t mean

for that to sound arrogant. There are highlights every week – little wins that keep me excited about what I do.

There have been really big highlights, like helping open Topshop on Queen Street to launching Heidi Klum Intimates for Bendon, but there are hundreds of smaller highlights that maintain my focus and momentum every year. Some of the most rewarding projects I’ve worked on are the designers who have grown with us, and vice versa – the likes of Kathryn Wilson, twentyseven names, Ingrid Starnes and Juliette Hogan, and the new designers we’re helping now like Harman Grubiša, I Love Ugly and Lucilla Gray who will hopefully become long-term clients and friends.

The industry has fragmented so much since I started Showroom 22 in 2002 (the name ‘Showroom 22’ came from it being a fashion PR showroom and me being 22 when I opened it – I wish I could say it was more complex or interesting, but I literally thought of it in about one minute). Of course information has become bite-sized and fed to us at hyper speed through multiple channels simultaneously, but the industry here has also splintered and those splinters have splintered again.

Nowadays, we don’t have ‘The London Four’ to define what New Zealand fashion is to the world, we have designers everywhere trying to get in on the action. And they’re not just started a t-shirt label either – the new entry level is a 40-piece collection, a show at NZFW in your first two years and a bricks and mortar soon after.

The fashion industry, for me, is now a very familiar stomping ground, and I’d like to stay connected to it for some time. The showroom is in good health, and our staff numbers are growing, making our capacity for work increase, and our ability to service larger potential clients much more substantial. Showroom 22 is now a trusted brand, and I want to continue growing the business, working with and for great people, and always being a part of the next big idea.

This month Apparel chatted with Madeleine Harman and Jess Grubiša, the creators of New Zealand womenswear label Harman Grubiša, to hear about how they got their start in the industry.

The duo grew up in Auckland and met while studying at Whitecliffe College of Arts and Design.

Grubiša’s family has always been in fashion. She grew up in the WORLD workroom and her grandmother’s sewing factory. Although Grubiša always knew that she wanted to end up in fashion, Harman’s pathway wasn’t quite so straightforward and she took a few turns before ending up at the final destination.

“When I left school I started at ELAM doing Fine Arts, changed my mind and moved into social work a year in, changed my mind and transferred to Whitecliffe as my last stop on the tertiary bus. I knew at this point fashion was what I wanted to do, but it was a long process to get to there,” said Harman.

“It wasn’t until I met Madeleine that I knew that having a label could be a reality,” said Grubiša.

Harman said that although not necessary for everyone, in her case a formal education has led her to where she is today. “I certainly wouldn’t be here if I hadn’t pursued it. I think that technical understanding of how garments are made is extremely important. I also think that knowledge of selling, marketing and developing a brand are all necessary; how you gain that knowledge,” Grubiša said.

The job entails everything from managing online retailing to production, design, marketing and cleaning the store. Although every day is different and there is no typical work day, Grubiša manages the majority of the garment production, including timelines, logistics, knowledge of “The majority of this has been gained through experience prior to having our own label and I would suggest to everyone considering working in fashion to

work in the field for a minimum of two years,” said Grubiša. She said the job has taught her the importance of quality.

“We’re learning every day. I think the main thing it teaches me is that I go into almost every day having to tackle some part of my role that lies well out of my comfort zone, I don’t know that this will ever change and I think it keeps things interesting,” said Harman.

Both 26 years old, at such a young age they attribute their success to hard work and taking risks.

“I feel as though success has to be earnt, you have to work hard, but also have to take big risks. This year for our brand we have taken some huge risks and pushed the boundaries on what we are capable of personally; we’ve given Harman Grubiša all our energy, time, as well as pushed the boundaries with our design. Particularly in our latest season Dakota shown at NZFW,” said Harman. Looking ahead, the pair’s future goals include taking Harman Grubiša international.

trendwatch

IT HAS TO BE TWEED

With not so humble beginnings as a royal, aristocratic cloth, tweed has for its entire lifetime been synonymous with style and elegance. Over time it has been relegated to older customers and labelled a style for nanas, but fashion has done what it is well known for and revived a trend that was practically dead.

While tweed still holds its Victorian roots, designers have taken a modern spin on a timeless classic, pairing traditional fabric swatches with contemporary silhouettes, incorporating tweed into the accessory and footwear markets.

@iloveugly

It is impossible to talk about tweed without mentioning the international influence of Coco Chanel, who transformed the fabric from a utilitarian menswear choice to a global hit with women. Timed with the shift in gender roles during the Second World War, the tweed suit for woman became representative of both style and functionality; a period where women were expected to both work, and keep the home fire burning.

In an almost rollercoaster action, tweed then went from upper class to a symbol of the punk revolution

@workshopnz

with the introduction of Vivienne Westwood’s Harris Tweed. Introduced in 1987, the Harris Tweed went on to become the face of the British Punk movement until its eventual end to which it became associated with academics and old-timers. Tweed flooded opshops and vintage stores, now a symbol of history rather than a current style.

The Tweed Run, launched in 2009, saw a revival of tweed and a remembrance of its rich history. Held in cities worldwide, the run fills streets with neoVictorian tweed fashion, bloomers and jackets. The effects are seen today with new tweed products filling the market in more variety than ever before.

As part of its Made In England range, Doc Marten produced a Harris Tweed boot that references its punk history and English heritage. Nike also featured Harris Tweed in a range of its footwear, marking the first time tweed hit the contemporary sportswear market.

Furthermore, American sneaker retailer, Greats, released its own tweed range for 2015, extending the casual use of tweed further.

“When people purchase Harris Tweed, they feel it transcends generations,” said Howie Nicholsby, kiltmaker, 21st Century Kilts.

It’s for this reason high fashion labels have paid homage to the rich history of the fabric, with designers including Dolce & Gabanna, Paul Smith, Ralph Lauren and Prada all showcasing tweed in their recent collections.

The popularity has real world effects, with eight new English wool mills opening in the last ten years, and wool sales rocketing in the UK from £5 million in 1985 to £50 million in 2012.

Moving forward, tweed can be seen in dresses, soft tailored coats, bags and footwear – a far cry from the traditional suit it is so well known for.

@isaaclikes

@lanaboutiquenz

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apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 27

STANDARD ISSUE The AW16 collection from Standard Issue is the 30-year celebration of New Zealand made luxury knitwear. It’s a look back at the classic style from the late ‘80s to the early ‘90s, which has shaped Standard Issue and developed it into a strong knitwear provider for the New Zealand market.

accessoryALERT

In line with its name, the AW16 collection delivers simple garments that appear standard, yet stylish.

Chunky knit sweaters and jumpers are available in simple colourways and a multi-coloured stripe print, along with the addition of a lemon colour option are a bright colour choice for winter.

The stripe and nostalgic styles like the guernsey draw inspiration from the classic grandma knitting style where she would create clothes from odds and ends found in her knitting bag. Other reference pieces, including the vintage knitted hoodie, make their return as a key piece in the collection as Standard Issue continues to acknowledge its history in order to continue moving forward. Stand out pieces include the Full House Sweater Dress that is more like a relaxed long t-shirt. The long cut is both comfortable and fashion forward, offering customers an effortless solution to looking good and feeling luxurious.

Perhaps the most adventurous piece in the collection is the Ditsy Daisy Sweater that experiments with a strong vintage knit pattern, giving vibes of a Christmas cardigan without pushing the boundaries too far that it doesn’t sit well in today’s market.

Each piece is 100 percent Italian cashmere made in New Zealand, spanning across colours including black, charcoal, eclipse, truffle, arctic, bluebell and pink salt.

Standard Issue have developed a legacy for producing the most technically advanced knitwear in the Southern hemisphere, using whole garment machines with the world’s best natural yarns to create sustainably designed and manufactured garments from its Auckland factory. The result is quality clothes that are made to last, with the handling and durability being just as important as the cut.

As a whole, the collection straddles the line between now and then, with the result being a modern mix on timeless pieces and includes re-imagined trends that seemed dead.

Alternatively, Private Collection Ltd, which owns and runs Standard Issue, also produces another label, Visage, which offers a more urban range of knitwear. The Visage AW16 collection is focussed on texture and keeps in line with its parent company’s philosophy of delivering luxury knitwear goods. Each piece is designed to be layered to add depth to the look, and emphasise the texture of the fabric.

Both collections range from $72 to $600, with the general idea that consumers are increasingly looking for quality garments that might cost a little bit extra, but last a lifetime.

Standard Issue and Visage are available online and stocked extensively throughout New Zealand, with additional stockists in both Australia and Canada.

OAKLEY LATCH SUNGLASSES The new Latch frame by Oakley marks a shift in direction for the brand, adding a style-centric kick to its sports-focused design.

Developing a signature product is never an easy game, but Oakley played it well by putting together a small team of fresh, talented minds. Latch is the fruit of a collaboration with skateboard icons Eric Koston, Sean Malto and Curren Caples, along with internationally renowned photographer Atiba Jefferson.

“We collaborated with the Oakley design team on all elements, from frame shape to logo placement. It was just amazing to team up with three skate legends and see this frame come to life,” said Jefferson.

By feeding first-hand expertise into the creative process, conceiving a product with a purpose was their main ambition. The result is a fortunate combination of classic style and technology, featuring a timeless rounded frame with the added benefit of functionality.

Latch is, as Sean Malto put it, “a product that not only looks cool, but solves that problem of sunglasses falling

28 I November 2015

inDETAIL

off your shirt.”

Whilst the functionality appeals to the skating community, its minimal soul captivates a wider audience of men and women alike. Performance was at the core of the designers’ work.

“The same way a performance piece allows you to perform better in your sport, Latch is a style piece that allows you to perform better in your life,” said Oakley Eyewear Designer Daniel Choe.

With ‘Oakley in Residence’, the Latch project expanded its boundaries even further. Hosted in Sydney until 29 November, the brand’s signature creative space is a unique hub that celebrates the skateboarding culture and aims to fuel passion and vision within the skate community. A similar OIR has been organised in Los Angeles earlier this year.

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• Finishing • Pressing • Ticketing duction runs large & small orders: & woven Judy Providingquotes) quality for 25 years sample service (Production Anderson ck fusing Your label at the centre of our business (09) 537 1216 ndard & Keyhole Buttonholes 021 259 5555 ndard & Shank button attachment 28a Alexander St ered Button (single orders) Call &usproduction today on 09 444 9010 Cockle Bay ming Howick or email us at p-stitching Auckland enquiries@kerilinfashions.co.nz er-seaming d-hemming/Bar-tacking for our introductory offer Email: patternz@xtra.co.nzMAY ool/Sport-wear uniforms www.kerilinfashions.co.nz rations

THE SHOPFITTING

SPECIALISTS

ONE ANITA (OWNER OPERATOR)

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444 9010 or 021 613 839

mplete the ll s, from s to ucing ctivity.

call:

7 1 21

START DATE: August 2010 CONTACT: Pieter Olivier, pieter@reviewmags.co.nz

Office, Factory and Showroom: 6A Henderson Place, Onehunga, Auckland

GARMENT TECHNOLOGY

Providing technical support to the clothing industry for the past 33 years

◆ Computerised Markers (Pad System) Sales & Hire ◆ Gerber & Lectra compatible ◆ Pattern Making 100% Recyclable ◆ Pattern Grading ◆ Sampling Incredibly Durable ◆ Cutting ◆ Production Runs

Wanted Stock

For new clothing outlet Designed in New Zealand in Christchurch PH: 09 441 3187, FAx: 09 441 3190 EMAiL: guy@patternmaksamples end of ers.co.nz or liz@patternmakers. w w wco.nz . p uwww.patternmakers.co.nz r f o r m . n e t lines | p h 0 etc 9 579 5566 email robyn or andrea adjj@xtra.co.nz

Contact ANDREW For Innovative And Expert Advice

ph 09 444 3544 new shore pleaters.indd 1

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13/10/09 10:06 AM

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PROvidiNG: Experts in design and production preparation for NZ and Off • New Zealand Professional CMT Manufacturing • Long standing reputable serviceShore to the apparel Professional Pattern Making, Grading and Marker Making industry (card or CAD) • High attention to detail Our skills and unique service will help make your • Full service – small or large runs Designs a reality • Quick turnaround times www.patternpotentials.co.nz • Specialists in woven phone: 07 889 3876

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GUY THORNTON

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Pleating For New Zealand Manufacturers For Over 25 Years Large Or Small Runs

email: sue@patternpotentials.co.nz

CONTACT dAvid FREEMAN Now To diSCuSS your reQuireMeNTS

PH 09 377 1678

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(computerised & manual) Computerised Digitising & Grading (Card or paper patterns) Computerised Marker Making (Compatible with Pad, Gerber Accumark and Lectra) Sample cutting with Fabric Estimates Sample Making Production Runs Production Cutting

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arnet Garment Cutting Services www.bma.co.nz

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Call Kevin on 579 8002 email arnetkevin@yahoo.com

apparelmagazine.co.nz

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