Apparel Magazine // November 2016

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NOVEMBER 2016 I VOL 49 I NO 11

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04 NEWS 09 15 MINUTES WITH KIM CATTRALL 14 STUDENT LIFE 18 RADAR 25 INDUSTRY ACCORDING TO . . . apparelmagazine.co.nz

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SERVICE IS KEY

As a woman with extraordinarily large feet, I find quality definitely rules over quantity and have unfortunately found I am the Cinderella of shoes minus the prince charming.

What is worse than not being able to find shoes, is finding good service. Over the past year, I have found the Newmarket team at Mi Piaci to be funny, kind and extremely helpful. However, this was not the case at a high end luxury designer store in Queen Street the other day. I walked into the store at 6pm, my pockets burning and a smile ear to ear for I had discovered they had my shoe size. I was ignored by two extremely rude women in the empty store. The reason for this seemed like they could not be bothered to serve me because I looked like I simply couldn’t afford anything in the store. I moved deeper into the store and requested the shoe to try on, she immediately said they didn’t have it. So I asked for smaller size in the same shoe. They didn’t have it. I asked for any shoe in the store in my size. They didn’t have it. I then asked for the up to two sizes smaller of any shoe in the store. Would you believe it! They didn’t have it. She rolled her eyes when I asked to be put on a waiting list

and scribbled down some letters and numbers that could quite possibly be my number and name. I sloped out of the store with the two women happy to see me leave.

I started to walk away when I saw yet another popular and empty high end luxury store. I knew they wouldn’t have my size, no one carries a 41 or a 42 and I was used to the rejection, but I had to try. I walked across the road and a lovely woman opened the door for me.

Asked about my day and not only listened, but asked questions. She was more than happy to let me try on any shoe or item in the store even though they were more expensive than the first store. She regrettably told me she didn’t have my size, but came out with a couple of boxes of shoes anyway. “These aren’t your size, but let’s try them all anyway,” she said as she sat at my feet on the floor. I was flabbergasted by how kind she was and she continued to tell me about all the services the brand offered such as made-to-measure shoes and future events coming up. She took an interest, not just in the brand, but her job and that makes all the difference.

At the end of the day, as a retailer or a designer, have you asked yourself… What is it like shopping in my store? What kind of shopping experience do my customers have? Just remember you’ll get a lot more with honey than vinegar.

2 I November 2016

RETRO JUMPERS Simone Bennett

ON THE COVER: This month’s front cover features a luxurious, soft woven blanket/throw. Each blanket is crafted using fine Perino by Woolyarns yarn which features exclusive Brushtails Possum Down.

Discover the uniqueness of Perino Cirrus at: www.perinoyarns.com

This very real and important lookbook will show you how to wear clothes, specifically, retro jumpers. Turn that vintage find into a sassy ensemble. As a retro fashionista, Simone Bennett fossicks and scrounges for all sorts of vintage items, but her passion is sweaters. Retro Jumpers showcases a collection of ensembles inspired by the 1960s, 70s, 80s and 90s.

Queen of Halloween, Heidi Klum spent over $10 million on her costume concept alone. She hired five models who wore matching outfits, wigs and high-end prosthetics made from Klum’s face.

In May, Trump spent $207,868 on hats for his campaign. However, overall Trump has spent well over $2 million on hats for his campaign. That’s four percent of his campaign money he loaned himself.

PUBLISHER Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com ADVERTISING SALES Josie McKeefry - josie@reviewmags.com SENIOR DESIGNER Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com DESIGN ASSISTANT Hannah Sames PHOTOGRAPHER Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com

Sali Hughes An honest and personal look at beauty products and how each one has changed the world. Pretty Iconic celebrates well over 200 iconic products that are among the best and most influential in the beauty world.

Beauty guru Sali Hughes guides you through which products to buy and why. Hughes covers, The Icons, The Nostalgics, The GameChangers, The Rites Of Passage, and The Future Icons in her 420-page book.

caitlan@reviewmags.com

Spaniard Amancio Ortega, co-founder of Zara, is personally worth $69.5billion and last year made it to number four on Forbes list of billionaires. Just shy of $9 billion behind the world’s richest man Microsoft’s Bill Gates.

Eight out of ten consumers are omnishoppers. An omnishopper is someone who uses technology while shopping to discover a wider range of products to compare and learn more about their choices.

PRETTY ICONIC

ADMINISTRATION MANAGER Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com INTERN Courtney Macris ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2016 NZ Apparel Magazine.

UNDERCOVER

Jun Takahashi This is the first comprehensive book on the work of Jun Takahashi, founder of streetwear label UNDERCOVER. This book gives readers access for the first time into Takahashi’s most desired and multidimensional clothing lines in comtemporary fashion.

Delicately curated with chapters devoted to Takahashi’s sketches, graphic work, collaborations and most innovative designs to date. Illustrated with over 200 images paired with in-depth essays by journalists, curators and colleagues.

7– 9 FEB 2017 GDS-ONLINE.COM

For all GDS information and advice on travel and accommodation options, contact Robert Laing, Messe Reps. & Travel, 09 5219200, robert@messereps.co.nz

A LUXURIOUS AND DISTINCT POINT OF DIFFERENCE CEO OF HALLENSTEIN GLASSON TO STEP DOWN

Graeme Popplewell is stepping down at the end of this year and will retire as CEO. Popplewell will still maintain a seat on the board. He became CEO in 2011 after working in the company for the past 45 years. “The past five years have seen an unprecedented change in retail with the explosion of e-commerce and the globalization of so many brands,” he said. “It’s been intense and we’ve had to reinvent the business to successfully meet the changing market.”

KATE OF ARCADIA IS BACK

After a short hiatus to start a family, Kate Of Arcadia is back in action. Now juggling a baby, the importance of a functional bag has never been clearer. Kate Of Arcadia uses NZ farmed and produced deer leather. Each bag is uniquely made to order via their website and takes a few days to create and send out. With luxury and high end bags in high demand, it is important to have a point of difference and stand out. Working in a small studio, the team said they aren’t very good at following trends and rather create handbags that they would use, over copying what some luxury international brand did last season. All hardware is done by hand, cutting by hand, even the swing tags are done by hand. The latest collection has introduced gold hardware and was inspired by shapes.

Perino by Woolyarns is a collection of premium yarns for high-end garments and accessories. As pioneers of merino and possum yarns, Woolyarns has continued to develop and create innovative products. For example, they have created a new version of Perino yarn called Perino Cirrus. The highest quality Cashmere fibre replaced the Merino

content and the most premium grade of Mulberry silk was introduced. Both combined with an exclusive dehaired Brushtail Possum down. Knitted garments or accessories that use Perino yarns possess a distinctive halo-like layer that looks as opulent as it feels. Across the globe, it is important that brands have a distinct point of difference. One of the best ways to make your garments even more unique is to use local materials such as the new Perino Cirrus or New Zealand Brushtail Possum yarn. The Brushtail Possum fibre used in Woolyarns’ fine spun yarns are sustainably sourced and carefully selected from specific New Zealand regions. Woolyarns and Perino also has a strong partnership with the New Zealand Fur Council and the Department of Conservation in preserving and protecting New Zealand’s unique ecosystem. Find out more about Perino yarns new collection, visit www.perinoyarns.com.

PAT MENZIES OPENS SECOND STORE

Pat Menzies has launched their second store in St Kevin’s Arcade in Auckland. Pat is the original and current owner and opened the footwear store in 1975. Menzie’s chose the new location because of its history and was the perfect area for the brand.

“Anyone who spends time up there will know why.

There is a real community feel in K Road which we are really happy to be part of,” said Michelle Menzies. The first original store can be found on Queen Street in the Canterbury Arcade.

ONE FOR ME, ONE FOR YOU

Swanky Socks has launched the world’s first monthly sock subscription that donates another pair of socks to the homeless. The company hopes to raise awareness for millions of people in need. The campaign finishes on December 7th and aims to raise an initial $5,000.

In their first week they raised 40 percent. “Everyday we cross paths with homeless people. We see them sleeping outside train stations, on park benches and under carriageways. Around Australia and the world, there is a growing epidemic,” said Tom Lawrence.

“Socks are among the most needed items in homeless shelters, yet among the least donated.”

SEE US at the International Sourcing Expo, 15-17th November 2016, Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre

4 I November 2016

THE PAINTED PEACOCK PROJECT

Cathy Pope has released a limited edition malachite range designed exclusively for The Painted Peacock Project. Pope was recently in India where she found herself on a “soul food” mission with four friends for the project. The team included photographer Sacha Stejko and two artists Flox and Ema Frost. Together they created the project with the aim of finding new inspiration for their work. The initiative was self-funded and each of the four women taught a workshop based on their creative practices for unprivileged children while Stejko filmed and photographed the whole process. Twenty percent of sales will be donated to Kidscan and Badi Primary School in India to buy the children art supplies.

HURLEY LAUNCHES NEW BOARD SHORT

Surfwear brand Hurley has teamed up with world champion surfer John John Florence to launch a new signature boardshort, the Hurley Phantom JJF 3 Nebula Elite Boardshort.

Used to describe astronomical objects and galaxies outside of the Milky Way, a Nebula is an interstellar cloud of ionized gases, the very pillars of planetary creation. Nebulae have been

a source of inspiration for Florence throughout his life and are now captured by Hurley in the new design, interpreting his style and influence.

Combining futuristic function and durability, the Hurley JJF 3 Phantom Boardshorts are built with laserscopic precision and state of the art materials to keep up with Florence’s enigmatic abilities in the ocean. Overseen by Florence himself from start to finish, the boardshorts’ advanced innovation and aesthetic offer a window into his restless mind. They are a direct extension of his brilliance in the ocean and are as authentic and original as he is out of the water.

“They need to hold up in every condition, eight hours a day,” said Florence. To do this, Hurley utilised a new Phantom durable stretch material.

ABOVE AND BEYOND FUNCTIONAL GARMENT WINS GOLD AUT student Kimberly Waihou won gold in the Product category for her Waihou Jacket in the NZ Best Design Awards. Her winning garment could be described as the new Swanndri and was constructed from a three-layer bonded 5000mm weatherproof rated Hyydrotex. “New Zealand has a rich history of clothing that represent its agricultural heritage, the iconic Swanndri and oilskin jackets being notable amongst these. However, the 21st century farm is a professional environment, with scientific, technological, commercial and lifestyle shifts giving rise to a new breed of farmer – one who is equally conversant with bank managers as they are with farm hands; equally as proficient on a smart phone as they are on a farm bike,” explained Waihou. The Waihou Jacket uses a two-way stretch, soft-shell fabrication that has a 3000gm breathability rating and can withstand rain showers, wind and light snowfall. Waihou used an Aquaseal zip and seamsealing technology to provide additional protection from the elements. Designed as a unisex jacket, the broad shoulder and tapered silhouette is purely functional due to rain run-off.

Corey Penney was playing with the idea of starting the company back in 2015 and after a trip to Sydney he was convinced. “I was helping a few friends find their feet in the e-commerce world and found myself with the insatiable itch to jump on the online bandwagon,” Penney explained. It was clear to Penney that the online world was heavily influenced by a love for fast-fashion and businesses that were succeeding were serving the “now” generation. “I started Foxleigh Watches based on the premise of serving people a great product at a great price point with a big focus on customers being able to order their watch and have it the next day,” he said.

Watches have always been a passion of Penney’s.

He saw a gap in the market for a New Zealand designed, affordable line of timepieces and jumped at the opportunity. At its core, Foxleigh is a leather goods company and are excited to be expanding their range of quality leather pieces this summer. “When you buy a watch you are joining the Foxleigh Family,” he said. They developed their current line of eight watches to be the staple pieces of the brand, while

STORES BY THE DOZEN

Colliers International has re-leased more than a dozen of the 62 Dick Smith’s stores that closed earlier this year, and they have several more under negotiation around the country. Colliers national director of retail, Leroy Wolland said that nearly half of all the stores nationwide have been re-leased to a range of categories and big brands, however many of the smaller regional locations remain vacant. “Although the former Dick Smith’s stores are typically in the best retail locations in these markets, the issue is around the lack of demand from national brands to enter these smaller cities and towns,” said Wolland.

Wolland said Colliers has also completed deals with international retailers Wittner Shoes and Footlocker who have snapped up ‘high street’ sites in Wellington and Auckland.

AUSTRALIAN DESIGNER PLEDGES NO MORE FUR

Following a recent PETA campaign, Ellery has proudly announced that it is withdrawing garments that use fur from all retail and online stores as well as pledging to never use any fur in future designs. Over 60,000 PETA supporters bombarded the Australian brand’s social media channels with messages and the hashtag #FurIsDead, urging the designer to reconsider her use of pelts and leather. In particular for Ellery’s pre-fall 2016 collection which featured at Paris Fashion Week this year and displayed a number of fox and rabbit fur pieces.

Ellery now joins the likes of other top retailers and designers such as David Jones, Myer, Camilla Franks, Nicola Finetti and so many more who are all proudly 100 percent fur-free.

building a culture around the style itself. Their new line of watches build on this momentum and is due to launch pre-Christmas.

Penney grew up in New Zealand and has always been influenced by its multicultural down to earth people and their relaxed way of life. Torn between Auckland and Wellington, Penney completed his first degree at Auckland University and then moved to Wellington to finish his second degree at Massey.

Penney has no formal training in fashion, but has grown up surrounded by fashion and found the design side came naturally. There are five people in the Foxleigh team and at the moment are stocked in eight stores across New Zealand and Australia.

Penney is now planning further expansion into the international market for the new year. “Currently our business is split between Australia and New Zealand, but I see huge untapped potential in the larger US and European markets,” Penney explained. They are also looking into partnering with like-minded e-commerce retailers who are interested in setting up international distribution from the major centres.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

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TARGET ANNOUNCES SPRING COLLABORATION WITH VICTORIA BECKHAM

BIGGEST KIDS STORE IN THE WORLD OPENS IN NZ

The Australian childrenswear retailer, Cotton On KIDS, has opened their biggest flagship store in the world at Sylvia Park in Auckland. The opening was paired with a number of activities for children and adults across its first weekend. The 432sqm interior was inspired by playgrounds, tree houses and merry-go-rounds, delivering an elevated and interactive experience for both children and parents. “Everything we do and create is with families in mind; we know our customers love to be surprised and we will continue to deliver interactive experiences to them. The new store format allows us to showcase our full product assortment, offer greater engagement and fun at every touch point,” said Danielle Harris, Cotton On KIDS Global GM of Retail. Cotton On KIDS currently has 282 stores across the globe including their online store and hope to increase its operation to 300 by this financial year. Four more stores are to open in New Zealand alone before Christmas including; a second flagship store at Capital Gateway, Fashion Island, Hamilton’s The Base Shopping Mall Flagship and Whangarei. “There’s plenty of retail to be done overseas, but equally some exciting opportunities to expand and refresh our offering across Australia and New Zealand – not only via footprint growth and expanding our flagship offering, but through the new and unique ways we engage our customers,” said Harris. The Sylvia Park flagship store features girls and boys apparel, accessories, baby apparel, sleepwear, tween apparel in the brand’s Free by Cotton On, and bedroom linen.

Sophie McLean RED 11

6 I November 2016

The new limited edition range reflects the charming, yet functional essence of Victoria, Victoria Beckham.

The collection features original designs and inspiration from iconic silhouettes for their apparel and accessories.

The Spring collaboration is made for women, girls, toddlers and babies.

This will be Beckham’s first foray into childrenswear. “Working with Target has been a really exciting process, and this partnership allows us to share the essence of Victoria, Victoria Beckham with more people than ever before,” said Victoria Beckham.

Beckham was first inspired to create the range while pregnant with Harper and since its launch, Beckham has evolved the category into an established lifestyle collection. “With both the line and my daughter

turning five, I felt it was the perfect time to extend into a more accessible price point and to celebrate both milestones by opening the range up to include childrenswear for the first time,” she explained. The collection features over 200 pieces ranging from $70, showcasing a range of palettes from soft pastels to bright colours to spring prints. It is feminine, yet functional and reflects Beckham’s commitment to quality craftsmanship. Victoria Beckham for Target is available in sizes XS-3X for women and NBXL for girls, toddlers and babies.

Selected pieces will be available for sale internationally through www.victoriabeckham.com. The collection will be available at all Target stores and online at www. target.com from April 9, 2017.

TOPSHOP INVADES WELLINGTON

TOPSHOP TOPMAN have opened their second New Zealand store in Wellington.

The duel leveled store spans across 1200sqm and offers TOPSHOP apparel, accessories, shoes, bags, beauty and more, as well as TOPMAN on the second level.

DICK FRIZZELL TEAMS UP WITH SPECSAVERS

Iconic kiwi artist Dick Frizzell has teamed up with Specsavers to create a new line of limited edition frames to pay for life-altering surgery equipment in the Pacific. Twnety-five dollars from each pair of frames sold from the collection will be donated to The Fred Hollows Foundation NZ which will aid the Pacific Outreach team to enable individuals who are blinded by cataracts to see again. One of Frizzell’s most recognised prints, ‘Woodgrain’, can be found on the unisex glasses. Designed 27 years ago, Frizzell said the print has been used for a number of mediums such as ceramic jugs and home furnishings, but none as complex as eyewear. “It’s been really interesting to see this artwork translate onto glasses, and I am so pleased that $25 from each frame will be donated to The Foundation’s Pacific Outreach team,” he added.

Sophie McLean was scouted in a carpark in her neighbourhood when she was just 14. “I had no doubts about jumping into the scene,” she said. Her mother is an avid art enthusiast, and throughout her childhood, McLean was always encouraged to be creative whether it was painting, sewing, knitting or drawing. “I believe this flourished my love for creativity within fashion and experimenting with my personal style,” McLean added.

Now 18-years-old, McLean said modelling full time this year had been one of the craziest experiences of her life so far. Her biggest achievement so far was walking for Tiffany & Co and Naeem Khan at Singapore Fashion Week. McLean is signed with Red11 Models in Auckland, Andrews Models in Kuala Lumpur and Upfront Models in Singapore.

McLean has just returned from her first overseas modelling trip to Kuala Lumpur and Singapore for the past four months. “The first big difference I noticed with modelling overseas is the amount of opportunities available with modelling as their client bases are so much larger. The culture change is also very apparent in the fashion industries as hours of work are much longer and a very strong work ethic is seen where New Zealand has a more laid back style and we often

become more friendly with the crew,” she said.

McLean feels she will be heading back to Asia soon for modelling, but her ultimate goal is to head back to London where she was born. “I fell in love with the city when I visited two years ago,” she explained.

At first, she wanted to become a model because it was an ideal gateway into exploring all the fashion industry had to offer. Now modelling has become much more of a passion of McLean’s and not only a means of living but a way to travel and meet new people every day. One of her biggest challenges so far has been the long list of castings McLean had to do overseas. “It isn’t actually a difficult task, but when you’re in a new country with different languages, getting around a busy city in a small amount of time can become a tricky situation,” she said.

McLean decided to take a gap year after high school to pursue her modelling career but is already looking into doing an online course in 2017 so she can integrate the two. With the world as her oyster, McLean said she would personally love to work with Burberry as their brand epitomises a classically chic British style. If McLean didn’t get into modelling, she said she would still be in the industry, but as a stylist or photographer.

SARTORIAL SPIDERS INSTA-NT GRATIFICATION

Instagram, the photo-sharing app which revolutionised social media marketing, recently announced the launch of shopping functionality which will add considerable value for retailers using the app. This enables users to touch a ‘Tap to View Products’ button on an image, and the product name and price (previously tagged by the retailer) will be shown. This is somewhat similar to how users can be tagged in images on the app currently.

In order to shop, the users will click a ‘Shop Now’ link, which will redirect them to the product page on the retailer’s site. No monetary transactions will take place through Instagram, although purchased ads will contain a ‘Buy’ button, which will also redirect to the retailer’s page outside the app.

The North Face have collaborated with material technology company, Spiber, to create a new outerwear prototype called ‘The Moon Parka’. Spider silk is among the strongest materials on earth, and Spiber utilised this to create a faux version of the silk, spider fibroinbased protein, from which the jacket is made.

Organic spider-spun silk cannot be used for commercial use of the jackets, as spiders take a long time to spin silk, and tend to eat each other when in close contact. A widespread release of ‘The Moon Parka’ will take place in 2017, and the prototype is on display at the Tokyo Municipal Museum of Art.

SNOW HITS CHINA

China’s answer to Snapchat is the lookalike app, Snow. Featuring similar functionalities as SnapChat, including facial recognition, filters and face-swapping, Snow has been selected by several large brands as their photo-sharing app of choice.

Snow offers more than 30 filters and 700 stickers, some of which have been designed by brands to promote their collection, such as Michael Kors’ Spring Festival Stickers which featured illustrations of monkeys and Michael Kors’ new season bags.

KATE SPADE SAVES DYING IPHONES

Kate Spade has collaborated with Everpurse to create a handbag which has a in-built charging pocket which is compatible with all iPhones from the iPhone 5. The handbag comes with a charging mat, which re-charges the bag’s 10W USB adapter. There are a variety of adapters which are customised to all iPhones on the market; the consumer can switch this anytime. There are six different bags in the range, including wrist pouches. The bag is wire free, and iPhones just need to be slipped inside the SmartPocket to start charging on the go.

SNAPCHAT SPECTACLES

Snapchat has announced their first debut into fashion with a new pair of sunglasses that connect to your Snapchat. By tapping on the left side of the frames, the built-in camera starts to record video for up to 30 seconds. During this, built-in LED lights turn on to inform those around you that you are recording. The video is then send to your Snapchat account through Wi-Fi or Bluetooth. The Snapchat Spectacles are $130 and are available in three colours, coral, teal, and black.

A first for the senses.

Perino is a first in cashmere, merino and silk yarn blends with New Zealand Brushtail Possum Down. www.perinoyarns.com

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REVLON RECRUITS CIARA

Revlon has recruited entertainer, model and fashion icon Ciara as their newest brand ambassador. Ciara believes that when one chooses to love themselves first, they are more open to the love of others. This makes her the perfect match for Revlon’s LOVE IS ON position. “As a woman who exemplifies confidence and beauty, Ciara is a perfect Ambassador to represent Revlon,” said Revlon President and CEO Fabian Garcia. “We are proud to have her represent our brand as she personifies the meaning behind the CHOOSE LOVE campaign.” Ciara’s new role as Global Brand Ambassador means she will be supporting Revlon colour cosmetics and the brand’s new CHOOSE LOVE campaign by promoting Revlon’s 2017 ColorStay Eye and Revlon Kiss Balm launches. “I’ve been a fan of the iconic Revlon brand my entire life,” said Ciara. “In fact, my name comes from the Revlon Ciara fragrance. It was a gift given to my mother from my father, and she fell in love with the scent and the name. It’s incredible to think that after all those years I would be joining the Revlon family as the newest Global Brand Ambassador.”

$20M RAISED FOR BREAST CANCER AWARENESS

Supporting breast cancer charities across the globe, ghd have successfully boosted their funds raised from 18 to 20 million dollars globally thanks to everyone who purchased a product from the ghd electric pink range. From the 20 million, ghd donated over $600,000 to The New Zealand Breast Cancer Foundation alone. “We are very excited to have reached our global donation target in support of breast cancer charities around the world. This could not have been achieved without the generous support of our ghd salon partners and those who purchased the ghd electric pink collection. We are incredibly proud of our partnership with The New Zealand Breast Cancer Foundation and to have contributed more than $600,000 to date towards breast cancer research in New Zealand. Thank you for your support in reaching our goal,” said Ludovic Dellazzeri, ghd’s Australia and New Zealand Managing Director. There is still time to show your support. Help ghd in their efforts to raise even more money for future research for breast cancer charities across the world by purchasing from the electric pink range. Or you can make a direct donation to The New Zealand Breast Cancer Foundation today.

ESTÉE LAUDER TO ACQUIRE TOO FACED

The iconic beauty company has officially acquired the brand, adding another important point of growth to The Estée Lauder Companies. Too Faced is a feminine and playful makeup brand known for its high-quality cosmetics. Estée Lauder Company aims to increase its consumer reach with the multi-channel brand and win over millennials. Too Faced launched in 1998, but has had an impressive growth over recent years and is expected to reach more than $270 million in net sales alone this year.

TREFIEL

Founded by Lucy Bloomfield and Michael Tremeer, Trefiel aims to empower the modern day woman to spend time on herself and enable her to invest in her skincare routine without breaking the bank. The idea of the affordable and effective lace hydrogel sheet face mask was born. Trefiel is a game-changing beauty brand whose indulgent lace hydro masks combine effective plant-based skincare with affordable luxury for a tribe of switched-on devotees. In the past few weeks, Trefiel has expanded their range as well as adding a luxe new look, soothing every skin concern.

Three new hydrogel masks were added to the offering, Brightening, Repairing, and Firming.

Created to target different skin concerns, the formulas are new, but the commitment to plantbased pampering remains. Each mask boasts four key ingredients for optimal hydration, aloe vera, hydrolysed collagen, hyaluronic acid and vitamin E. The products are non-GMO and cruelty-free, and you’ll instantly recognise the chic black lace design from social media.

8 I November 2016

MECCA MAXIMA LAUNCHES FIRST NEW ZEALAND STORE

Christchurch will unveil New Zealand’s first Mecca Maxima store featuring the best of the best in global beauty. The store opens on Thursday November 17th this year and will house over 40 beauty brands. It can be found in the heart of Christchurch’s ANZ Centre.

“We’re so excited to bring Mecca Maxima to New Zealand,” says MECCA founder Jo Horgan.

“And with our first store in Christchurch, we’ll be introducing a number of exclusives beauty firsts, such as Urban Decay, Too Faced, Mario Badescu, Lipstick Queen and Billion Dollar Brows, to cater to the growing beauty appetite in New Zealand.”

The new Mecca Maxima store will showcase the ultimate edit of the best of beauty including popular cult products like Ubran Decay’s famous Naked Eyeshadow Palettes and VICE Lipsticks. Another highlight is Too Faced’s ‘Better Than Sex’ Mascara. This will be the fifth store in MECCA’s New Zealand store network and the company plans to triple the size of its operation nationwide by 2018.

Product knowledge is at the core of MECCA philosophy and Mecca Maxima will showcase informative in-store designs, make-up touch up stations and professional store hosts across the 140 square metre space. Almost every Mecca Maxima and Cosmetica brand will also be available to purchase on MECCA’s new interactive website, www.meccabeauty.co.nz.

Bloomfield and Tremeer both have a background in tech and startups and the number one goal for the product is completely results-based. “We want the customer to notice a huge difference, whether they’ve never used a sheet mask before, don’t have a regular skin care routine or they are an expert,” said Bloomfield. “The product is fantastic and we have wowed people from all walks. There are a lot of face masks out there that are made with a cotton cloth that can be quite scary looking. While it is a bit of a novelty, the lace really speaks to people, they can have fun with it, feel sexy and when they do remove it, they look and feel incredible.”

Currently, the brand is extremely focused on the customer experience, but 2017 will see a number of partnerships with different brands and companies to grow the self-care and lifestyle side of the business.

“As well as that, we’re sticking close to our roots as a skin care company and will be releasing two skin care lines in the next 6-12 months, one for oily skin and one for dry skin.” For more information or to stock this incredible brand contact Kristina at Kristina@trefiel.com.

Kim Cattrall

There’s that great expression in French, dans les yeux, which means ‘in the eyes’, and people do that when they cheers. I think that it’s something more than any other fashion statement or accessory, that’s what people look at - your face and your eyes.

Kim Cattrall earliest memory of fashion was her mother. Cattrall was a huge fan of Mary Poppins growing up and remembers her mum watching it.

She also recalls Julie Andrews being nominated for an Academy Award and watching the awards, seeing all these beautiful hairdos and fashion. “They looked like gods and goddesses, and I couldn’t help thinking that there’s another world out there that is interesting and beautiful and exciting,” she explained. Her mother was the MC of fashion shows in department stores in Liverpool before Cattrall was born and said her mother always had a keen eye for fashion.

“I remember her describing to me and helping me pronounce Balenciaga when I was very young and feeling so privileged that my mother knew something that the other mums didn’t,” she said.

“She is 87 now and still gets up every morning and puts her makeup on and loves shopping. She is still very much a girl as well as a fascinating woman, but I owe her a lot. She presented to me the world of movies, and escape and literature, and also style.”

Jumping forward a couple of years, Cattrall found herself working with the iconic stylist Patricia Field on the TV hit series, Sex And The City. Cattrall said Field was such an inspiration to her and worked completely differently to what she was used to. “She would go to garage sales in Miami or look at kids on the street or go to Paris runways and find something. Her imagination never stopped.

Her investment in the characters was always there and always fun, but at the same time if it didn’t work for whatever reason, she would be completely open and say well we don’t have to do that, let’s try this,” Cattrall explained. Cattrall joked in Field’s voice saying “‘I think you should do that scene with the fierce heels on, it would be amazing.’ And I’d think wow that’s a brilliant idea!

And now Samantha is in bed with this guy with four-inch heels on!”

In New Zealand as the new ambassador for Specsavers, Cattrall said she had worn her personal glasses for a couple of her characters. “I remember I picked a pair of glasses for Sensitive Skin, which is my new series on Netflix, and for some reason,

they hadn’t been treated properly, they were very reflective, and we were having a difficult time.

I substituted them with another pair of glasses, and they then became the character’s glasses,” she added.

Cattrall believes that there are no stereotypes around glasses anymore. That when one looks at someone’s face you are looking into that person’s eyes. “There’s that great expression in French, dans les yeux, which means ‘in the eyes’, and people do that when they cheers. I think that it’s something more than any other fashion statement or accessory, that’s what people look at - your face and your eyes.

When it comes to the frames Cattrall has chosen, she said that they reflect her, who she is, the mood she is in and where she is. She likes to look very natural and make her glasses part of who she is and feels like there is a perfect harmony between her and her glasses. Cattrall was nervous about her first pair of glasses at the age of ten, because of the repercussions of four eyes and wondering if guys wouldn’t find her attractive anymore.

“But now we live in a world of so much more choice and the internet. It has become the ultimate fashion statement,” Cattrall added. Forget a walk-in wardrobe, at this point; Cattrall has more glasses than shoes. Cattrall still has her first pair of glasses which were clear with a little black line and had little diamantes on the corners. “The don’t fit, my head has gotten a lot bigger, and I don’t mean metaphorically! I still love them.”

Cattrall is on the search to find Specsavers’ next Spectacle Wearer Of The Year in New Zealand.

Specsavers first came to Cattrall’s representatives in the United States, and she did some research on the company. “I really like what the company is about.

It was put together by optometrists, and there is philanthropy involved with the business. I just

thought, wow they are providing a service here that I think is useful and doing it with a lot of choice and panache.”

For the next Spectacle Wearer Of The Year, Cattrall is looking for originality but also to learn more about the person wearing the glasses. “It’s more about the joining together of a statement that they are making that’s very connected to them individually,” she explained. She believes glasses can completely change one’s look and enhance what is going on.

Cattrall said it is important to know your body, specifically your facial structure. Otherwise, it can go the complete opposite; it can be out of tune for what works as a whole. Cattrall advises looking for glasses that work for you and what registers in your mind that makes you feel good.

In the future, Cattrall said she would absolutely love to make her own eyewear collection with Specsavers. “They would all look good on me. I would start with myself and what I like. I think they would be very colourful.”

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I9

SECOND ANNUAL COLLABORATION

TRUMP APPAREL DUMPED BY MANY

I Love Ugly has their second collaboration with JanSport. This is their second annual back-pack collection and to mark the arrival of the three pieces the team travelled to Chicago for a photoshoot with photographer Michael Salisbury.

I Love Ugly wanted to launch the second collection with strong ties to the originals due to the worldwide success of the first release.

Each bag is made out of high quality wool felt and introduces a new silhouette. The bags boast I Love Ugly’s iconic aesthetic to resonate with the brands refined and sophisticated style. The capsule collection was designed with three creative professionals in mind; a photographer, designer and musician.

President-elect Donald Trump’s apparel licences are no longer active, meaning all of the merchandise from cufflinks to two-piece windowpane suit are being sold at a deeply discounted rate online. PVH, Randa, and Peerless Clothing were the three companies that held the licenses for Trump’s products and are no longer producing any merchandise under the Trump name. It is rumoured that when Terry Lundgren stopped, everyone else followed suit. Lundgren, chief executive officer of Macy’s, said the store would no longer carry any of his products after Trump’s remarks regarding Mexican immigrants. Macy’s is the primary retailer for Trump and has exclusively sold the Trump-labelled merchandise for the past decade.

The merchandise that is now sold online was most likely sourced from third-party vendors seeking to get rid of their leftover stock.

MCCARTNEY FOR MEN

London-based Stella McCartney has added menswear to her impressive list of design credentials. McCartney’s first menswear collection for her eponymous brand recently launched alongside her womenswear collection at historic music studio, Abbey Road.

McCartney found inspiration for the collection through the men in her life, including her father; Paul McCartney, and his musical heritage.

The collection had an edginess, and freespirited vibe which was reminiscent of London in the 50’s and 60’s. Included in the collection are shoes, made from vegan leather, in accordance with McCartney’s sustainability ethos. This was not McCartney’s first foray into designing for men, as she designed the British Olympic Team’s uniform for the Rio 2016 Olympics.

Robin McGowan CO-FOUNDER OF INSTITCHU

10 I November 2016

TOMS DEBUTS FIRST MENSWEAR COLLABORATION

The Brooklyn-based menswear label Hill-Side has teamed up with Toms over a year ago to create a collection of their favourite Toms shoes silhouettes in their signature Japanese fabrics. “This idea quickly expanded to include kids’ shoes in the same fabrics,” explained Emil Corsillo, co-founder of The Hill-Side. They also added accessories (such as pocket squares, bow ties, scarves, neckties) in an exclusive printed fabric and three styles of Toms eyewear. According to Corsillo, this is the first time Toms has partnered with a menswear brand. The new collaboration can be found at www.thehill-side.com, selected The Hill-Side retailers in America and globally at Toms stores and retail partners.

Robin McGowan lived in Italy when he was younger and remembers the effortless style of men and the suits of Rome and Milan. “This childhood memory has stuck with me throughout the years and helped craft my vision for InStitchu,” McGowan said.

With no formal education or training in fashion, co-founders McGowan and James Wakefield both completed their degrees in finance and economics before jumping into careers at big corporations.

Cognisant that the two knew nothing about tailoring or suit making or the fashion industry, the duo travelled the world to learn trade secrets from the best suit tailors and pattern makers around the globe. Before InStitchu, McGowan worked as a business development strategist, coordinating online and digital business while carrying out sales strategies to bring on new clients. “Tailoring is a traditional industry, but we wanted to challenge the notion that this experience is only something a select few can experience offline,” he explained.

InStitchu was born in 2011 when Wakefield and McGowan both realised how difficult it was to build their own professional wardrobes. “We were tired of the endless search for high-quality, affordable business attire, and it turned out we weren’t the only ones who were looking for a better experience and easier way to shop for a suit or shirt to wear to work,” said

McGowan. The pair opened InStitchu with the aim to bridge the gap between high-end tailors in Asia and consumers all over the world.

Proudly flexible, InStitchu enables their clients to have their suit anyway they desire even down to the material of the buttons. The label also stocks independent Australian brands for their shoes, socks, pocket squares and grooming products and are looking to expand their range further. Another highlight of the InStitchu experience is once the customers have finished choosing their design, the garment is rendered in 3D before making the purchase. “This flexibility, when directly contrasted with the old-fashioned nature of the traditional tailoring industry, has resulted in market dominance for InStitchu.”

Vlad Tichen MENSWEAR STYLIST

You probably know a guy who knows a guy who has that outrageous Hawaiian shirt with blue flowers and pink flamingos, and who wears it every second day of his life - to all those board meetings, job interviews, and distant relative’s funerals. Damn, you might even be that guy! That’s alright, I understand. We’re all friends, and we all have our weaknesses. You have to know that there’s no judgement here… Hmm, maybe there’s a little bit of judgement, but that’s not the point.

The point is that if you’re a forward-thinking apparel retailer, you’d get this straight away. People like that Hawaiian Shirt Guy is your biggest opportunity. The fact that he wears that bloody thing (it could be a knit with a reindeer or a wrinkled velvet blazer) for most of his life endeavours, shows that he

simply lacks a better alternative.

That’s when you come around, a knight in shining armour, a spiritual guide, a professional with the exceptionally well-curated range of clothing aimed to help those in need and despair. And that finally brings us to the topic of this discussion. Let’s talk about the Perfect Gentleman’s Wardrobe and what is considered to be a true Menswear Essential.

ESSENTIAL #1 The Macintosh Coat One day sometime in the early 1800’s somewhere in Scotland a guy named Charles Macintosh got so sick of all that rain, that he was like: “ I’m making a raincoat!” He was a serious fellow, so, naturally, he did make one. And everyone was like: “Wow, Charlieboy, well done, buddy! Now we’re all going to be nice and dry! Cheers to that!” Soon enough, every cool gentleman out there was wearing one of those raincoats, tenderly calling it ‘Mac’.

Now here’s the question; the answer to which you would need to get from your prospective client: “Are you one of those guys? No? If not, now is a good time to fix that.”

See, having a good fitting Mac in your wardrobe not only maintains the level of your dryness, it is a raincoat after all, when it’s miserable and wet outside, but also significantly improves the level of your coolness. It is THE best way to look sharp without seeming like you’re trying too hard. It’s slightly bell-shaped construction gives you additional room for comfort and the simplicity of design allows it to combined it with different patterns.

The styling options are limitless. Push up the sleeves for a more casual look, wearing it with your raw denim jeans and a turtleneck. Or put it on top of your suit and wear it as a classic overcoat. You could also button the top button of your raincoat and leave the rest

unbuttoned to show a bit of the t-shirt finishing the look with good chinos and a pair of simple sneakers.

The Mackintosh coat compliments any outfit quite effortlessly. Dress it up, dress it down; it’ll work perfectly for almost any occasion. Also, let’s not forget that it is a demi-seasonal item, which means you could wear it all year around.

The only thing I’d urge caution about is the choice of colour. Although nowadays you’d be able to find a Mac in all the variations imaginable, I tend to consider natural palette (grey, khaki, and beige) to be the most suitable and also the easiest to match. Stick to the classics; that’s the easiest and best way.

PHOTO CREDIT: Max Lemesh

MARKET RESEARCH YOUR COMPETITORS AND PEERS TRUST. www.euromonitor.com

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RIHANNA’S NEW SNEAKERS AVAILABLE NOW

Rihanna’s designer credentials have grown quickly since the Barbadian-born singer started collaborating with Puma for her line Fenty Puma. Following the popularity of her fur slides, Fenty Puma has released a sneaker boot with a creeper-style platform. The boots are available in three styles; one in matte black, one in patent black with chain details, and one in matte white.

Priced around NZD$500 per pair, the sneakers are sold at exclusive online stores including Revolve and Neiman Marcus.

MAN REPELLING FEET FIRST

Perennial style star and blogger extraordinaire, Leandra Medine of Man Repeller, is now a shoe designer. Medine created the MR by Man Repeller collection for Net-A-Porter, where it will be exclusively retailed. The collection features loafers, mules, ankle boots, and over the knee boots.

Inspired by Medine’s favourite footwear through the years; the collection has a wintery look, as it utilises on-trend velvet in a paisley print. MR by Man Repeller is produced by SIX London, a shoe design, producing and distributing company.

TRUMPING THE COPYCATS

Ivanka Trump and her accessories line manufacturer, Marc Fisher, are facing legal action from Aquazzura. Aquazzura has drawn connections between several very similar styles of shoe, which Ivanka Trump produced after Aquazzura’s designs success. Trump’s line retails at a significantly cheaper rate to Italian brand Aquazzura, and Trump and Fisher have petitioned for the lawsuit to be dismissed. However, Marc Fisher’s licensee brand, Guess, previously lost in a lawsuit put forth

by Gucci, over a similar colour scheme and logo design. Trump has denied knowledge of any copying.

www.kateofarcadia.com • contact@kateofarcadia.com • 021 226 7770

12 I November 2016

RUBY RED SNEAKERS

E-commerce giant ASOS have joined forces with Saucony to create a new line of glitter sneakers. The unmissable ASOS White x Saucony Shadow 5000 sneakers are a have a glitter-encrusted leather upper and glitter in the soles. Available in two shades, navy and red, the red hue is very reminiscent of the Wizard of Oz’s ruby slippers. The sneakers have a 90’s inspired look, which is eminently Instagram-friendly. Both pairs retail for around NZD$170.

MI PIACI X MISS CRABB

The two New Zealand fashion brands have teamed up to create a dynamic and bold footwear line. The collection features a diverse range of mules, strappy heels and flats. Kristine Crabb designed the full line of footwear with the concept of creating glamourous and fun with a fresh approach to colour and texture. The collaboration is available on both brands websites, in selected Mi Piaci stores and Miss Crabb’s Ponsonby store.

JLO X GIUSEPPE

Giuseppe Zanotti is no stranger to collaborating with celebrities.

Following his 2015 collection with Beyonce, Zanotti is creating a new footwear and accessories range for Jennifer Lopez’ brand JLO by Jennifer Lopez. Lopez has worn Giuseppe Zanotti heels to a myriad of red carpet events, and Zanotti said ‘It was a natural evolution to collaborate together’.

The range will include crystal-encrusted booties, sneaker wedges, and strappy gladiator sandals. The colour palette will consist of pastels, greys and beiges, accompanied by a selection of handbags in matching hues.

iP is about innovative people If you’ve got a standout brand or design to protect talk to AJ Park today.

Coffee’s on us.

Corinne Cole Partner +64 4 498 3445 corinne.cole@ajpark.com

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I 13

BRITT POOLEY

ANDREA SHORT

Andrea Short started her course at Otago Polytechnic straight out of high school, not 100 percent sure what she wanted to do. Short knew she loved being creative, but as she continued her studies she became more aware of the multifaceted sides within the fashion industry. “I believe I am starting to find my niche spot,” she said. During her time at Otago, she was fortunate enough to have many experiences including a trip to show her graduate collection at Shanghai Fashion Week in 2015. Earlier this year, Short was also selected to show at both the Emerging Designer Awards and the Railway Show for iD Fashion Week.

“Being given so many wonderful opportunities to show my collections to such a wide and diverse audience of people has been very important to me,” Short added.

Short describes herself as a textile designer as she enjoys a combination of both sewing and designing.

Short’s brand is called Andrea Leigh and her most recent collection ‘Klexos’ focuses on the art of dwelling on the part to find new meanings. “The essence of this collection is an embodiment of the strong emotions that are felt with the loss of a loved one. I wanted to capture the vulnerability and innocence that comes with such a difficult time,” Short explained. An aspect of sustainable fashion that is important to Short is buying items or garments that you will treasure and love, not things you will use once and throw away to the back of your closet. Influenced by soft colours and organic patterns, Short finds herself often using materials or colour palettes to capture feelings of nostalgia and childhood memories. Because Short’s designs are mostly experimental, she found it was difficult to repeat and sells most of her pieces as one-offs. “Working with a client would be my next important area of exploration after graduating.”

14 I November 2016

Otago Polytechnic honour student, Britt Pooley is originally from Christchurch but now resides in Dunedin. Her core values include her education, whanau, community and creative expression. “I choose to study design as I feel it allows me to channel these values,” said Pooley. As a designer, Pooley’s philosophy is to embody well-researched, intelligent design paired with strong speculation and consideration of concept. Her personal design aesthetic revolves around the application of a theoretical framework to design. “As a design practitioner, I value the quality and sustainable ethic of slow fashion with an emphasis on the importance of being both an academic, a designer and a maker.”

Her brand is called Bijou Studio with her own personal label Bijou Niche which sits underneath.

Pooley decided to choose fashion because she felt like it was a natural choice for her during her last year of high school. “I changed all my subjects, and I never looked

KIMBERLY RAMSEY

Twenty-two year old Kimberly Ramsey grew up in Queenstown but has spent the last four years studying at Otago Polytechnic in Dunedin. Alongside her passion for fashion, Ramsey is also interested in textiles, in particular, wool fibres and the craft of hand felting. Her favourite subject in high school was fashion, so it was no surprise when she decided to pursue it at university as well. Studying at Otago has taught Ramsey to push herself, to take more risks and to never limit herself. “It sounds corny, but I have found it to be true,” she said. Her label is called Kimberly Olivia, and her style is very relaxed and comfortable while being sophisticated and colourful. During her

back. I feel fashion is an endless outlet for creativity, and incredibly addictive. It takes over every aspect of your life, but in the best way,” she explained.

During her time at Otago Polytechnic, she said the most important thing she learned was the value of community. She believes it’s so important to surround yourself with people who inspire you and advocate your ideas. “I’ve met a lot of great people while studying that I feel will be present throughout my entire career,” Pooley said. Instead of created a collection of garments for her end of year, she developed a virtual fashion business incubator presented as a website. Pooley’s biggest challenge so far has been finding a balance between business and pleasure. “Fashion can overwhelm you with opportunities, there’s so much I want to explore,” she added.

Even though Pooley thinks sewing can get a little laborious, she believes that it is all part of the process and that sewing is invaluable to design. “I feel we need to put great value on traditional making. It’s the only way to really understand your design inside and out,” Pooley explained. Sustainability is at the forefront of Pooley’s practice. The essence of her work is a holistic approach to fashion. As a creative, Pooley said everyone is always absorbing their surroundings and finding new inspirations and influences. “Whether it’s fashion, people, art, music, design, literature, nature or conversation. It never stops.”

Pooley is launched her website, www. bijoustudio.co.nz, on November 17th at the Otago Polytechnic Debrief Exhibition and is releasing her next collection, Cicatrice, online following iD Fashion Week 2017.

short time in the fashion industry, she said there is a growing awareness within the industry of the effects of fast fashion on the world. When it comes to textile design, her primary source of inspiration is merino fibres. “My hand felted textile designs then influence my garment designs on how I can translate my textile into a wearable garment. I’m also influenced by nature and my slow fashion design values,” Ramsey explained.

Ramsey interned at Snowy Peak in Christchurch as well as two exchanges to Shanghai, one for a summer school fashion program and the other for the sister city project which is shared between Otago Polytechnic and Shanghai University of Engineering Science. She also shadowed the head knitwear designer of Merinomink where she learned how they control and maintain all the factors that can affect wool fibres performance when producing high quality knitted garments. “I also learnt how they run their commercial business while withholding their sustainable values,” she added. Ramsey believes her biggest challenge jumping into the industry with her own brand would be reaching a level of sustainability she is happy with. “Successfully making conscious decisions and being aware of their implications, yet having to make unsustainable choices due to economic reasons and there being no other sustainable option available. I hope that someday I can reach my goal of having my own label, that is both economically and environmentally sustainable.”

In the future, Ramsey would love to have her own brand, but feels she still has a lot to learn and a lot of industry experience to gain before she can reach that stage in her career.

Order your copy now! josie@reviewmags.com or call 09 304 0142 ext 712

Elie Saab Resene Guggenheim

Chloe Resene Blue Moon

colour trending

Pleated Colours available from

Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363 16 I November 2016

Haider Ackerman Resene California

Gucci Resene Cabaret

Peruse any street-style picture gallery from the past year, and you will inevitably spot a pleated midi skirt.

The style shot to fashion-blog fame when Alessandro Michele featured a gold lamé pleated midi in his debut for Gucci, and it has remained a style-staple.

Despite the prevalence of similar skirts being stocked in many high-street label collections, pleats continue to make an appearance in couture collections, with several designers utilising the design to inject a touch of jaunty movement into their Spring/Summer 2017 collections. But don’t break out the high-school kilt just yet, the new pleats are delicate and subtle, with a ladylike elegance perfect for an effortless summer aesthetic.

This season, Elie Saab embraced 70’s disco-fever on a glitter-encrusted runway. The palette was mainly monochromatic, with splashes of metallic gold and silver, and splashes of turquoise and peach. The floaty fabrics, combined with all-over sequins and low cut necklines, gave the collection a Studio 54 vibe.

“My woman likes to be happy and beautiful. The style is simple, but it is all about movement,” said Saab.

This collection was a departure from Saab’s usual ethereal ball-gowns and featured bright, all-over prints with stars. Saab featured permanent pleating on the skirts of several of his evening gowns. One of the most refined gowns in the collection was a soft, metallic peach hue. The metallic fabric, similar in colour to Resene Guggenheim, caught the light and the delicately angled pleats reflected a luminous glow. The effect was a luxurious evening gown with a

Giambattista Valli Resene Blue Chalk

weightless elegance and subtle movement.

Chloé presented an Anglo-inspired collection, with subtle nods to England’s nautical heritage. The palette was refined, featuring muted blues, yellows, browns, and monochromatic tones. The collection featured floaty, loose-fitting garments which exuded easy summer elegance. Drawstring waists, tied with slim twine, and the use of rope as shoulder straps hinted towards a maritime inspiration. As the show progressed, there were unexpected floral prints, presented in the form of off the shoulder dresses, and wide-leg pants. Permanent pleats were used in maxi and mini dresses; including some using colourblocking patterns. The floaty shape combined with the modern palette, included blocks of colour similar to Resene Blue Moon, and created a fresh, femalefriendly aesthetic.

Presenting his collection ‘Make Do and Mend’, Christopher Kane took us back to the United Kingdom during the post-war era. Inspired by his own childhood, as well as World War II refugees, Kane featured an eclectic mix of glamour and functionality.

The contrasting elements included embellished crocs, patent leather handbags, rivets, metallic pleats, religious iconography, and large floral prints. Kane presented a few pleated pieces, which were in metallic grey or a metallic blue similar to Resene Azure and accented with black mesh.

Victoria Beckham’s eponymous collection continued to go from strength to strength, this season presenting a softly whimsical collection entitled ‘Velvet Underground’. Beckham’s take on the trending

Valentino Resene Beethoven

Victoria Beckham Resene Aqua

pleated midi skirt felt fresh, perhaps due to the tooth-paste inspired hue. Close to Resene Aqua, the vibrant skirt exuded understated sophistication, and velvet pleats have a volume and weight which made it a definite statement skirt. Beckham’s collection was created around velvet, “It’s about taking the fabrics and making them feel new and fresh.”

Giambattista Valli channelled languid summer luxury in his Spring/Summer 2017 collection, which was brimming with floaty, floral fabrics and peeks of delicate black lace. Based on the writing of Simone de Beauvoir, Valli explored femininity and presented it with a vintage-inspired touch. A sheer, pleated, maxi skirt, in a colour close to Resene Blue Chalk, matched with a barely-there smocked strapless crop top. The set was layered over a black, lace-trimmed bodysuit, giving an ethereal, yet modern look.

Alessandro Michele’s maximalist approach to fashion is a well-established concept, as ‘Magic Lanterns’ for Gucci’s SS17 was a continuation of his previous collections for the iconic brand. Filled with historic references, and embellished pieces, Michele continued crafting the unique aesthetic which has single-handedly torn fashion from it’s love affair with minimalism. ‘Magic Lanterns’ combined bourgeois twinsets, 80’s-inspired voluminous maxi dresses and chinoiserie-patterned gowns. Eye-catching pleats were used as ruffle-style accents on a matching pant and shirt set in a vibrant, metallic pink; similar to Resene Cabaret, giving the pants a mermaid-like look, while the shirt is an original interpretation of the current ruffle trend. Michele’s colourful, created

Christopher Kane Resene Azure

world continues to enrapture maximalists, and provide the perfect statement pieces for street-style stars.

The collection title, ‘Bird of Paradise on Acid’, perfectly encapsulated the aesthetic created by Haider Ackermann in his Spring Summer 17 collection.

Ackermann presented a crisp palette of blacks and whites, accented with vivid, tropical hues which easily united to evoke a fresh, summer look. Experiments in tailoring and volume were evident in the relaxed cut of a classic tuxedo, and several intriguing sleeves; which had a distinctly rounded shape. Ackermann included a nod to the on-trend permanently pleated skirt in his collection, but with a fresh twist. Pairing sheer fabric, in a hue near Resene California, with a wrap-style cut, Ackermann provided a new point of view to the style.

The soft, new perspective on femininity presented

by Valentino was inspired by Hieronymous Bosch’s renaissance-era painting ‘Garden of Earthly Delights’.

In Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first show since the departure of his partner to Dior, there was a distinct Italian aesthetic; consisting of layers of lace, gauzy maxi dresses for day-wear, and intricately embellished fabrics.

Piccioli’s creations radiated subtle sophistication, and easy grace. Permanent pleats were elemental in several dresses in the collection, adding subtle movement and ease to long dresses. A longsleeved dress in a soft peach tone, close to Resene Beethoven, featured small knife pleats at the yoke, which epitomized the historicism and poise spread through the collection.

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I 17

MONEY FOR WINE

Michelle Baynes grew up on the sunny beaches of Perth, WA. Admittedly, she was always a bit of a beach girl and found moving back to the rural New Zealand was definitely a reality check. Five kids and 3000 cows later, Baynes has her own retail store just outside of Gore in Mandeville. Prior to this, she had worked on and off in retail for a few years and was a self-taught fitness instructor, but said her biggest job was raising five children on a dairy farm with her husband Bret. Now in her forties, she decided to take a job working in a quirky retail store called Money For Wine in Riversdale that sold recycled designer clothes and homewares. “Well look out forty, this was my calling,” Baynes added. She had always loved everything about fashion and loved the customers.

“I could see there was a real gap in the market down our way for certain fashion lines and homewares, so I took the plunge and bought this small business,” she explained. Baynes wanted to grow Money For Wine

HER APPAREL Rebecca Rasool was set on being a fashion designer from her teens. Growing up, Rasool could be found practising Judo, going to rock concerts or hanging out at the local skate park in Upper Hutt, Wellington. “My mum loves to say I stopped playing with dolls at a late age. I just loved dressing them up. I wanted my dolls to have a wardrobe for every occasion, and I used to make little DIY outfits for them,” Rasool said.

After sixth form at high school, she left to study at Massey University where she finished her Diploma in Fashion Design & Technology.

Her menswear collection opened their graduation runway show. However, Rasool

alongside Miss Cocoa’s Coffee shop created by her business partner and sister-in-law in Mandeville. The name was credit to the former owner, but she kept it as she felt it fit all too well. Her passion for fashion has convinced Baynes that she may have a distant relative in the fashion industry.

Baynes wants her customers to walk away from her store feeling amazing and happy with their purchases, ready to return again. “If they are unsure I always say grab a coffee and see if you visualise yourself wearing it and loving it, then you can’t leave without it. Nine out of ten, they gain trust in you as a sales assistant and become a very valued customer,” said Baynes.

In the next six months or so, Baynes would like to launch an online store as she has collected a number of sort after labels who have recently come on board. However, she still loves having direct contact with her customers and having valuable one on one time. Baynes would also like to host more events in-store for her customers, such as guest speakers or mums and bubs days. “Anything is possible even if you are forty with purple hair and still wear full length tulle skirts.”

18 I November 2016

chose not to take the lingerie paper in order to do her menswear collection. Rasool interned at twenty-seven names and shortly after became the store manager at Andrea Moore, which gave her a lot of insight into how to run a business. Her Apparel started in early 2014 after her husband purchased a new overlocker for her. “The first thing I sewed on it was a pair of undies, and it grew from there, it wasn’t long before my friends started wearing the bralette style,” she said. While working at Andrea Moore, Rasool was looking to start her own line. “I needed something that could be made quickly at night,” she added. Now, Her Apparel has well over 54,000 followers on Instagram.

Her Apparel will be branching into sleepwear next year and Rasool is also looking at adding underwire styles on top of expanding her collection. Adding underwire is a big move away from the brand’s current style but some of their customers need underwire pieces for work and Rasool wants to provide a comfortable alternative that still reflects the brand. Everything, apart from the Basics cotton range, is made-to-order by Rasool. “It allows more customisation for our customers and no left over stock. I would say 85 peercent of our lingerie sales have different sized cups to the bodice size,” she added. Currently, Her Apparel is run solely by Rasool. She would love to open a pop-up store at some point to offer her customers a chance to try the lingerie to see and feel the difference. Her next goal is to hire an agent to focus on the US market. Her Apparel is stocked in online boutiques in the UK and UAE, the new shopping app ‘luv.it’ and is currently in conversation with a New Zealand department store.

WYNN HAMLYN When he was younger, Wynn Hamlyn would collect all of his nana’s off cuts from the floor and would try to make them into bags. He grew up in Te Puke and attended Bethlehem College in Tauranga. Hamlyn then moved down to Dunedin to study a Bachelor of Surveying and continued to work as a surveyor for another three years after his degree. Before fashion, his main interests were sport and music. “Since I started the label I haven’t kept up any sport, but still enjoy the music,” Hamlyn added.

Hamlyn has always had a strong interest in his own clothes. At high school, he was really into streetwear and would save up to buy new pieces off eBay. “I also enjoyed making things and my nana had taught me a little bit about sewing,” said Hamlyn.

He started his

formal training in fashion at Otago Polytech and then moved to Auckland for another six months training at AUT. “At Otago I had to study general education papers towards my surveying degree so I enrolled in some fashion papers at Otago Polytech. I enjoyed it so much that I enrolled for the full year and completed year one fashion the same year I finished my surveying degree.”

Hamlyn prefers to design, and recognises that his sewing skills are base level. He works with manufacturers and machinists, utilizing talented outworkers to make each garment the best quality. Hamlyn values making quality products for his customers is one of Hamlyn’s key values as well as allowing them to look and feel great in his garments. Although the brand is operated by Hamlyn himself, he has some outworkers that he works with that he said he has become very close with and would consider them his team.

Wholesaling is Wynn Hamlyn’s main source of sales and can be found at Eugenie, Black Box, Hello Darling, Caughley, Palm Boutique, 47 Frocks and Slick Willy’s. Hamlyn is launching an online store, www.wynnhamlyn.com, soon which was designed by DDMMYY Studio and built by Meide Studio. The next step is to continue expanding, exporting and finding new markets for the label.

BW36.174 The brand name is made up of Blair Wheeler’s initials, BW, paired with the longitude and latitude coordinates of Auckland, New Zealand where each garment is created. Wheeler grew up in Auckland, passionate about skateboarding and skate culture. “I still skate and as such, the culture has morphed into my personal style,” he said.

After high school, Wheeler received a scholarship to Whitecliffe where he developed his unique and experimental fabric style.

Before Whitecliffe, Wheeler had attended an all-boys school which he found was very restrictive. “They controlled my hair style, length, colour and essentially everything about how I looked in order to keep me the same as everyone else. This was the perfect environment for me to rebel,” Wheeler explained. He would turn up to school with a mohawk and the sides of his head shaved; this resulted in Wheeler being immediately sent home. Wheeler decided to tune his desire for rebellion into his design, photography and painting. He quickly topped all of these subjects and used the portfolios as a stepping stone into the fashion arena. One of Wheeler’s first garments were inspired by skate clothing, especially jackets, that were heavy and harder to wear in summer. He created a jacket that was lightweight, relatively breathable and had shoulder straps so the user could drape

INTERVAL

Kara Liu was born in Shanghai into a family of doctors, and moved to Melbourne with her mother when she was fourteen. After school, Liu studied a Bachelor of Design at RMIT where she graduated as top of her class in 2012. Shortly after, she interned with Alexander Wang in New York. Liu remembers always being told she could draw before she

could speak. Liu enjoyed sketching growing up and never considered making a career out of it until Year 11 in high school. “I think I was going through a rebellious phase. I decided to not follow the family profession of medicine, but go into the creative industry to try my luck and applied for the fashion course at RMIT,” she explained.

One summer, her grandmother taught her how to sew on an old manual sewing machine.

“She taught me how to sew and let me make my own pyjama shorts. I remember wearing them everywhere for the entire summer because I was so proud of myself,” Liu added. Her great grandmother was once a great sewer and would make clothing as well as shoes for the entire family.

Liu likes to believe she inherited her genes.

Liu works with oversea suppliers to create her collection, but finds her ideas and concepts are clarified through her sketches. “It is also extremely therapeutic. I enjoy working with my hands even though I don’t always have the time,” she said. It is important to Liu that Interval’s designs fit seamlessly into her customer’s life and wardrobe. Interval was made to be a highlight in her consumers closets, a favourite jumper or a go-to top. “She shouldn’t have to think too hard about how to outfit an Interval garment. It should complement her, not overshadow her,” Liu added.

Interval shares their sales, marketing,

it over their shoulders like a backpack. This is another element that Wheeler has adapted and refined into his garments today. “I think it’s a really unique feature, which I really haven’t seen anywhere else in New Zealand. Before Whitecliffe, all of my pieces were purely experimentation, a lot of trial and error and figuring out what I liked and what looked good.”

Now, Wheeler enjoys the design and creating process where he makes every garment himself first.

“I can tweak it and play around with the design a bit to ensure its exactly what I want,” he added. Wheeler then works with outworkers who sew each bespoke piece. Working with high-quality materials is one of the label’s core values. “Because of this, I place great importance on fabric treatment specialising in comfortable cuts while always maintaining the ethos of the brand.”

Wheeler recognises that it is fundamental to have one on one time with his clients and believes it is important to establish a loyal clientele.

New Zealand’s countryside profoundly influenced his current collection. “Auckland is surrounded by 48 volcanoes, a lot of people don’t know that. My colour palette has been established from the earthy tones in the land around Auckland. My greys have been taken from volcanic rock, similarly, with my reds, they have been created to reflect lava and so on,” he explained.

His brand has a huge focus on its customers having a personal experience and describes it as more of a partnership between the brand and each client.

His dream would be to have an appointment based physical space where I can have one on one time with each client. Wheeler wants to continue pushing the boundaries of fabric manipulation and maintaining an innovative pattern work.

“My garments are made in New Zealand and from New Zealand, I will always maintain true to my roots.”

production, customer service and other resources with other brands under the Trend Imports umbrella. Everything else is up to Liu and her design assistant. Liu hopes to expand Interval further into Australia and internationally.

Meanwhile, she also wants to launch an interactive website for interval where their customers can not only view the product and purchase, but explore interesting lifestyle content. Interval can already be found in Myer, TOPSHOP Australia, Glue Store and a number of other independent retailers.

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I 19

WEBSITE SECURITY SOLUTIONS Jonathan Henning, Sales Director at SocialKiwi, spent almost seven years working in the website security space for VeriSign and Symantec and is well versed in the technologies available to not only secure your website but increase conversions, SEO rankings and traffic to your site.

Through their partnership with Digicert, SocialKiwi can offer its customers the opportunity to have their companies authenticated as legitimate and provide access to SSL certification to ensure their websites, and traffic is secured.

What are SSL Certificates? SSL Certificates, sometimes called digital certificates, are used to establish a secure encrypted connection between a browser (user’s computer) and a server (website). The SSL connection protects sensitive data, such as credit card information, exchanged during each visit to your site. Whether you need to secure one or many domains, one or multiple servers, SocialKiwi in conjunction with DigiCert can provide a full line of SSL Certificate products to meet your needs.

To better explain SSL, imagine a letter is sent through the post without being placed in an envelope, of course, all people who get their hands on this letter can read its contents. SSL is the envelope around the letter which ensures that only the intended recipient can read the letter’s contents.

As part of the process of obtaining an SSL certificate, the team at Digicert will conduct background checks ensuring that your company is a legally registered entity and is still in operation, that you are the legal owner of the domain name in question and that you individually are an authorised employee or agent of the

IS YOUR

DIGITAL MARKETING PLAN DELIVERING RESULTS? Do you use your website to generate leads, attract subscribers or sell your products or services?

If you do, you understand how important the design of your website is, the impact of your words you use to describe your products, and the value of constant traffic to your site.

www.socialkiwi.co.nz 06 875 8002

20 I November 2016

company. These checks are a lot more rigorous than this post suggests but can be completed relatively quickly, and the benefits are well worth it.

HTTPS secured websites receive an automatic boost in search engine results giving you the perfect opportunity to give your users the peace of mind of a secure site and get search engine rank results.

Now that Google is giving a status boost for sites secured with Always-On SSL (AOSSL), it’s the perfect opportunity to give your users the confidence of using a secured site and get the benefit of increased search engine rank.

To see Always-on SSL in action visit www.socialkiwi.co.nz and you will see the green, secure, HTTPS connection. To see full details of the certificate and online business ownership click on the padlock, click on the Connection Tab, click Certificate information then finally click details. This will provide you all the information you need to see that their site is secure, the certificate is up to date and that they are the owners of the website and that they are a real business. Establish a trusted presence online by getting in touch with the team at SocialKiwi.

TEN WAYS TO CREATE AN AMAZING ONLINE EXPERIENCE Because all retailers want to deliver a great online experience, but only few are making it happen. There are three key elements to apply to these top tips.

First, having a great salesperson who can modify the information based on consumer’s questions and preferences.

Second, make the information easy to understand. Short and sweet never hurt anyone. Third, timing is everything.

Make sure the salesperson has the tools and deep knowledge to assist decision making and introduces information at the right time.

1. Consumers are on a journey

two parts; Interaction Cost and Value Design. An Interaction Cost is the effort required of consumers to undertake each step within their journey. The ultimate goal is to reduce as many forms of effort as possible for your customers. Value Design is the creation and presentation of content.

This helps simplify decision making.

4. Respect the fold

Consumers’ online journeys are becoming longer. In 2013, a Google study found that, on average, consumers referenced 12 sources of information online before buying online or in-store.

The “Fold” is as important as it was many years ago, but the dynamic has since changed. Though today’s consumer is more prone to scrolling, they will only make the effort if they perceive the content below the fold will add value to their journey.

2. Each journey comprises multiple steps

5. Let data do the decision making

In the eyes of the consumer, a “step” occurs when they take an action online and new content is presented (or the same content appears differently).

3. The function of “user experience” or “ux”

To understand how “UX” contributes, it needs to be broken down into

Having access to the right data is an important part of determining what is and what is not working for your brand. Don’t ignore this, the facts don’t lie. On top of this, ask yourself what are you doing to acquire new customers? Do you know your customers’ pain points and why they don’t end up purchasing?

6. Apply Best Practice Aka The “Science”

The world of eCommerce and digital conduct has been around for over twenty years now, providing a wealth of knowledge for businesses to expedite their digital evolution.

7. Wireframing

The process of translating the experience plan to touchpoints is done through wireframes.

8. Design Consumer First Not Mobile First

Retailers have the ability to leverage varying screen sizes to improve the consumer experience.

Key considerations include; • Simultaneously create wireframes for all touchpoints • Consider context (and what experience the consumer is looking for on a particular screen) • Do not forget about the enlarged monitors which are growing in popularity for desktop.

9. Design Experiences For Intent Driven “MicroMoments”

A micro-moment is a consumer’s moment of high intent and need for engagement.

10. Be iterative

Creating an amazing online experience is not a one-off process. It is crucial to keep a regular engagement with your

THE MAIN BARRIERS PREVENTING YOU FROM GROWING YOUR ECOMMERCE BUSINESS 1 Lack of Budget 2 Siloed organisation and lack of coordination 3 IT blockages 4 Too many systems and technologies 5 Lack of strategy 6 Poor technology 7 Lack of technological understanding 8 Lack of senior management buy-in Of the top eight, four issues relate to technology. All the issues listed above come from poor technology vendor relationships, inflexible technology and/or old and outdated technology. These issues are the common characteristics of those retailers who are slow in their digital evolution.

customers. It is also important to keep data mining, insight gathering and making new hypothesis creations. On top of this, your site should continue iterative and agile development programming.

To learn more go to www.estaronline.com

Not all eCommerce platforms are created equal.

Omni Channel

End To End Commerce

Global Expansion

Tailored Implementation

Multi Brand Multi Site

Digital Strategy

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 21

LET’S GET PHYSICAL

What is fuelling the expansion into bricks-and-mortar stores for so many pure-play online retailers?

Ryan Murtagh, CEO Neto eCommerce Solutions Online shopping has long been praised as the future of retail. It offers consumers more product variety and the convenience of being able to browse and purchase on the daily commute, during a lunch break, or while watching TV is something that physical stores simply can’t offer.

Yet businesses solely driven from an online store do have some obvious limitations. Buyers have no physical interaction with the product prior to purchase, returns or exchanges are often inconvenient, and there is no way for customers outside of same-day shipping areas, which many retailers don’t even offer, to access products immediately. A recent survey of 256 New Zealand-based retailers by Massey University found that 60-89% of revenue was from in-store sales. Lead researcher, Jonathan Elms said that ecommerce is a “complement, not a replacement” to the traditional bricks-and-mortar store. He said that “the important thing going forward is to seamlessly integrate the online and store trading environments.”

With online retail giants like Amazon and Google branching out into physical stores, it’s hard to ignore the fact that the future of retail lies in a combined online-offline experience,

otherwise known as an ‘omni-channel’ strategy.

From these trends in the market, there are some practical learnings for NZ retailers.

The key learning is that online retailers don’t need to adhere to the traditional model of a bricks-and-mortar store. Physical stores should be treated as a part of the customer acquisition strategy built around brand experience - a customer who has had a great experience in one medium valued your brand across all your mediums.

One alternative is the increasingly popular ‘pop-up’ shops that have seen many retailers make the leap into the physical world. Popup shops are usually created in a space with a short-term lease which means less overheads, less commitment and thus, more room to be creative.

Online Childrenswear brand, Love Henry has just opened their flagship retail store after the success of two pop-up shops earlier this year.

Founder Chrystal Henry said that their stores have been key tools for creating brand awareness beyond the reach possible online.

After her first pop-up store reached the end of its life cycle, Henry said she was glad to have a website that she could direct her new fans to and

ensure they received the same experience that they would have gotten in-store. Consistency of experience was key. Ethical denim manufacturer, Outland Denim also credited their pop-up store in Brisbane as a strong extension of their brand experience. Founder James Bartle said many of their customers had come into the store to try on jeans prior to making a purchase.

While the aim of their pop-up shop was initially to test the waters and see what the reaction of the market would be, Bartle said that a physical store is vital and would definitely be a part of the company’s future. Once you’ve decided to sell your products through an additional medium, execution should be simple.

Building your business model has to be about building for scale.

Whatever stage you’re at right now, take the time to ensure that the solution you use to host your website or point-of-sale tool can also transition your products into another sales channel. As the retail market evolves, you’ll find that having a cutting-edge ecommerce partner who can help you adapt to your customers needs will save you many headaches down the track.

YOUR E-COMMERCE CHECKLIST

Whether you are a retailer or selling to retailers or both, e-commerce is a highly cost-effective tool if it’s done right. There is a broad range of prices charged for an e-commerce website and it is tempting to go for the cheapest.

However, your online visitors will have experienced the best sites in the world, and if your site (or your offer) doesn’t stack up, you will not get the opportunity to sell to them. That may be unfair, but it’s what happens in the current world.

Fortunately, New Zealand businesses have access to some world class e-commerce providers who can ensure that your brand looks and performs up with the best. The following checklist provides some attributes that you should look for.

• Is your site as easy to navigate using mobile phones and tablets as it is on a desktop?

• Are your online customers automatically sync’d with your POS/CRM and email system?

• Are you offering products online that are no longer in stock?

• Do you offer click and collect?

• Are you able to offer the same promotions online that you do in-store?

• Can you log in and help a customer to change an order?

• Can you readily accept a return and refund a client’s credit card?

• Can your customers log in and see the status of their orders?

• If your client searches for red pants, do they also get all pants and everything red?

22 I November 2016

Wholesalers have a whole extra set of features they should offer: • Can your B2B clients easily re-order the same products as last time?

• Can they easily order size and colour ranges of their chosen styles?

• Can they order on their account without having to pay by credit card?

• Can they log in and see their individual prices?

• Can they log in and download marketing materials?

• Can they log in and only see their exclusive product range?

• Does the order need to get approved by their manager before being sent?

• Does the order go directly into your warehouse or order management system?

POINTS TO REMEMBER: It’s a global marketplace – you need to look and function at world class to remain competitive.

Integration is essential – your website needs to know and use your company-wide stock and customer information.

Established brands are still growing their e-commerce sales at 15-50 percent pa. If you are not achieving this, there is something wrong.

For more information, visit www.solutionists.co.nz.

The 24-year-old Aucklander attended Whitecliffe straight out of high school to pursue a Bachelor of Fine Arts.

Lucy Hopkins

Jade Leigh Kelly JEWELLERY DESIGNER AT KAREN WALKER

24 I November 2016

Lucy Hopkins started styling during her last year of university and never looked back. “I’m now the web stylist at Glassons where I style all the online content and campaigns,” she added. Currently learning the language, Hopkins said she loves anything Japanese.

Other interests include; cheese platters and drinking wine with friends. “If you can call that a passion,” Hopkins joked. When describing what she is influenced

by Hopkins said to put it down to one thing or person would be impossible.

“I feel constantly inspired by the people who I work with, movies, magazines, artists and designers. I might see a garment, picture or painting and love the colours or composition and an idea will spark in my head.

I really enjoy collaborating with others as it is such an unpredictable process.” Two years deep into her styling career, Hopkins said her first job was styling the web photos for a local jewellery label, Veronica B. “That’s when I had my first taste of it and the rest is history,” she said.

Hopkins also started a small handmade recycled vintage jewellery line called Dinner Dates with her friend and noted photographer, Clara Pafundi. “Anyone who knows us knows that we are obsessed with earrings, so we decided to take vintage jewellery and upcycle them into one-off statement earrings,” she explained.

Hopkins styles their photo shoots while Pafundi shoots them. The duo is currently in the midst of planning

their next big shoot for summer.

Over the last few years, Hopkins has been fortunate enough to have worked with some great local companies such as Trelise Cooper, Glassons, French83 and Veronica B. Through these industry experiences; it helped Hopkins discover and clarify her own style. “I also fostered a strong work ethic that I never thought existed within me,” she said. Fashion has always been a prominent part of who Hopkins is, and she always knew she wanted to do something creative. It wasn’t until she tried things, failed and tried again that she fell into styling, which seemed so much more honest and natural than anything she had tried before.

Considering Hopkins never studied fashion; she still feels her formal education played a huge role in where she is today. “The most valuable lesson I learned is how to critique my own work and most importantly how to take criticism from others,” she added. Hopkins attributes her success to good old honest hard work, perseverance and not letting her failures get to her. Her biggest accomplishment so far has been travelling overseas with Glassons to style their latest Spring and Summer campaigns.

Her earliest memory of fashion was learning how to dress. “I would colour coordinate my outfits and change at least four times a day. I occasionally still do this… some things never change,” said Hopkins. Hopkins personal style is a little bit of everything. She believes most people define her by her statement earrings, leopard fur coat and bleach blonde hair. Hopkins advises eager young stylists to keep working hard. “The more you work, the more knowledge and experience you will gain along with refining your own style.”

Karen Walker is a brand that never stops; Jade Leigh Kelly has found she is constantly challenging herself to be better. Kelly is the Head Designer and Brand Manager for Karen Walker’s jewellery and accessories lines. During her time so far there, Kelly has learned never to be complacent or to settle for anything that doesn’t feel right.

“You have to be open to change, embrace the new and be excited to explore the unknown,” she added.

One of her favourite parts of the job is that she never gets bored. “There’s always something new happening within the company and new challenges to tackle.”

Another highlight is working with Karen and Mikhail, from whom she has learned a lot over the years. Kelly also gets to travel to see suppliers, attend events and photoshoots. “I’m a gypsy at heart so experiencing new places and meeting new people really fuels my creativity,” she explained.

Kelly grew up in a small town in northern England, she loved her childhood and how she experienced the world at such a young age. Her mother took great pleasure in making up creative stories to tell. “What I now know are petrol and oil puddles on the roads, I believed were the start or end of rainbows.” Both her grandmother and her mother are very creative, her grandmother used to teach nuns how to sew and taught Kelly’s mother too. “The pair of them made everything and anything. They loved to make my sister and I matching outfits,” she said. Kelly went to Manchester School of Arts where she completed her BA Hons in Fashion Design.

Although she had always made clothes and loved using clothing to express herself, she wasn’t 100 percent sure she wanted to do fashion. “Before my degree I did a year focused on the arts, which included

fashion and textiles, fine art, photography and moving image. In the end I’d realized that fashion is where my passion was.”

A normal work day can vary greatly depending on what time of year it is, she aims to maintain a balance between creative time and admin time. On a normal day before she gets into work, she clears any emails that might have come in overnight. “Working globally means the work is still happening even when I’m asleep,” she said. Kelly then jumps straight into creative work, maybe completing some designs she had already started or getting a fresh idea down on paper. Kelly’s inspiration can spark from anywhere. Surrounding herself with people she finds interesting, talented and most importantly people who challenge her to open her mind to new things.

“What drives me with design and ideas is a want to create something that fun and interesting people want to wear.” So when Kelly starts drawing and designing, she makes sure they have as much detail as possible and then shows them to Karen while she’s working on them. “Once she’s happy, we hand them over to our jeweller. I spend a lot of time working with our jewelers, it’s a labour of love and quite a magical journey seeing a lump of metal turning into an exquisite piece of jewellery.” Other times Kelly can be found working with Mikhail on upcoming campaign ideas and different ways to communicate what it is they want to share with the world. “Then after all that thinking and idea generating it’s back to the emails,” she added.

In the future, no matter what Kelly is doing, she wants to continue to explore things that she is passionate about and to create things that others find joy in.

Richard Kavanagh GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR - RODNEY WAYNE

I honestly never actually thought I was going to make it to 20 years of age.

As a young punk at high school, I was interested in science and thought I’d pursue a career in biochemistry. That is, until the hairdresser explained to me the science behind what she was doing when she coloured my hair. The pink and purple flat top I was sporting, with the green fringe hanging over one eye, offset by a bright orange wedge cut around the sides and back was no accident. It was a masterpiece of chemistry combined with biology along with an architectural approach to cutting that created perfect symmetry despite the uneven organic form of the medium (my head that is).

Something struck me, like a left hook from Mike Tyson, and I knew, in every fibre of my being, that I was going to be a hairdresser. It was the first thing I ever truly knew without doubt, and that is what drove me to leave school at fifteen (despite the

@bardot

@chloe

protests of my mother) to pursue an apprenticeship and start the biggest and longest lasting love affair of my life.

Some days, I actually can’t believe I get paid to do what I do. As a shy, socially awkward fifteenyear-old fresh from an all boys school, I was thrust into a world of women, fashion and beauty that I never really knew existed. And boy did I go on a steep learning curve! I learned how to shampoo and condition hair properly, how to greet people and make them feel at home. How to pamper and perm, blowdry and empathise, listen and colour, understand and empower and most of all, how to make people look and feel better than they imagined they could.

Struggling through my teens, trying to negotiate the terrain of responsibility and freedom, I was a rebellious boy, and even though I tried my best, I didn’t always turn up to work on time or prioritise my career as much as my bosses might have liked.

I preferred to spend what little money I earned on having a good time and this led me into all sorts of teenage strife.

It took me nearly 6 years to complete my apprenticeship, partly because I didn’t put aside the money I needed to pay for my annual assessments, and I was too proud and embarrassed to tell anyone.

And partly because I was too busy partying and getting into trouble. At the age of 18, I found martial arts. It gave me the discipline and focus to get back on track and start tidying up my act.

In 1992, after the birth of my first daughter, and receiving my black belt, I turned my attention and focus to setting an example for my child by showing her that it is possible to live your dreams.

It was important to me to show her by example, and not tell her she could do or be something when I hadn’t lived up to my potential yet. I knew I had to figure it out as best I could so my kids would have an example of what a man could be. I decided to see how far I could take this hairdressing thing that I seemed to have attached myself to.

I wasn’t sure exactly what the dream career looked like, but I felt it in my bones. It felt like New York, and money, and something bigger than I could see.

Somehow I knew that I had to get started, I needed to work with the best people and start entering some awards and building my career seriously. I moved back to Auckland from the Far North, started

@cmeocollective

@peteralexanderofficial

As a shy, socially awkward fifteen-year-old fresh from an all boys school, I was thrust into a world of women, fashion and beauty that I never really knew existed. And boy did I go on a steep learning curve! working at the best salon around with an award winning team and started working on my craft and all aspects of it.

After winning some awards and placing in others, I started working on editorial and advertising fashion shoots which required me to learn a whole new skillset. Coming from New Zealand and having a desire to work on a global level, I knew I had to be resourceful. I had to find a way to do whatever it took to grow my portfolio, grow my skills, expand my horizons and invest every spare dollar and every spare minute into my work. I became obsessed.

I feel extremely privileged to have all the incredible experiences my career has bought me so far. I’ve travelled the world working with A-list celebrities, supermodels and the most prestigious fashion houses. I’ve presented on stage in front of 10,000 people and had a big part in a Hollywood blockbuster, I won a golden gloves boxing title, shot for vogue, and surfed in Hawaii.

I’ve had the opportunity to impact the careers of the 600 plus staff at Rodney Wayne through education, creative direction and global opportunities and I’ve been honoured with awards in other countries. But the thing that keeps me doing what I do, the reason I am still excited and passionate after 30 years in the hair business is that we, hairdressers, get to help people have good hair days, and you know how amazing you feel when you’re having a good hair day.

@petrabenton

@steel

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 25

Kristine Crabb MISS CRABB

Miss Kristine Crabb grew up under the Kaimai Ranges on a farm where she lived next to her grandmother, Gloria Crabb.

When she was young, she would pick flowers and sing her way over to visit her grandmother. “Both of my nanas’ were really creative making clothes, hats, paintings, beautiful cookery, amazing gardens, musical, poetry and singing,” she said.

When Crabb was about eight-yearsold, she and her friends would organise fashion shows based on Miss World beauty pageants using their mother’s wardrobes. Crabb recalls her mother always having the most amazing style and wardrobe. “I always loved the power and energy she got from that.

Then as a little teenager and wanting my own stuff I started to make clothes for myself and friends,” Crabb explained.

With a Bachelor of Fashion Design under her belt, Crabb wanted to create something truly unique and alternative to what already existed in fashion.

“In 2004, when I started, I found it a wee bit restricting. I wanted to create something beautiful and kind of liberating for all women,” she added.

The clothes had to have a sense of fun and fluidity as well as the ways of wearing them and the lifestyle that came with them. Crabb breaks conventions while being a total classicist at the same time. “I think my singular vision for the clothes and the brand and also sitting a little bit outside of the industry; it’s what people love and is what has kept us going. It’s unlike other fashion brands,” she explained.

Before Miss Crabb, her first business venture was Rip Shit and Bust on K Road where she and some art school friends would create one-off pieces to sell. “It was so great, the things that came out of there were next level.

We ran it for three years before Miss Crabb; it was a great time of learning

about business, the importance of media and the industry and where I sat within,” she said.

Crabb designs all of the garments and products available as well as being the creative director of most aspects of the brand. She works closely with her team coordinating, coming up with new ideas and concepts for the next project. Her favourite thing is still having the whole day in the studio cutting new patterns and making new work.

The most challenging thing for Crabb is to turn a concept into reality while getting it to a high standard for business and everything that goes with it. Crabb feels lucky every day that she can live her life with her young children making art.

She also loves all the people she works with, the brand’s fans, customers and all the people she gets to meet in her career.

Miss Crabb is available at a number of stockists nationwide, their flagship store on Ponsonby Road in Auckland and on their website. In 2017, Crabb plans to expand further into the Northern Hemisphere, Australia and Asia.

PROTECTING YOUR BRAND IN A BORDERLESS MARKET

The internet can feel like the Wild West sometimes. It’s easy now to set up a website with very little technical know-how, and start selling goods online. The crowded online marketplace raises some tricky issues when it comes to trade mark protection.

So what can you do when you find someone infringing your trade mark online?

DOMAIN NAME DISPUTES

But what if the Brazilian website starts offering to sell to New Zealand customers, and promoting New Zealand shipping options?

In a recent example, the domain names ritzcarlton.co.nz and ritzcarlton.nz were transferred to the owners of the famous Ritz-Carlton hotels. Ritz-Carlton showed the registrant had also purchased domains matching a number of other famous trade marks including Ralph Lauren and Toyota. Although the domains were not being used and were simply ‘parked, Ritz-Carlton argued this was a deliberate attempt to block its trade mark rights and that the registrations were unfair. The Domain Name Commission’s Dispute Resolution Service agreed.

Trade marks are registered country by country – there is no such thing as a worldwide trade mark registration. This might not be a problem if, for example, you only sell to New Zealand customers, and another company is only targeting customers in Brazil using the same trade mark. You may have registered your trade mark in New Zealand, while they have registered the same mark in Brazil. Customers are not likely to be confused.

Trade mark infringement happens when someone uses a trade mark that is the same or confusingly similar to one that is registered in the country where the use is taking place.

‘Use’ can include use online, even if the infringer’s website is not linked to a ‘.co.nz’ domain. Online use can be trade mark infringement even if the website is hosted overseas and the infringer lives in a different country to where the trade mark is registered. Key factors include whether the website is targeting New Zealand customers, and whether it is possible for customers in New Zealand to purchase the goods advertised.

It can be difficult to take legal action against someone who is based in another country, but there are some relatively efficient options available.

TAKE-DOWN NOTICES

Most major online retailers and social media platforms have take-down procedures in place so that if a trade mark owner makes an infringement complaint, the infringing profile or listings can be removed quickly. This is helpful if an infringer is advertising or selling knock-off products somewhere like Facebook, eBay or TradeMe. You will usually need to show you are the owner of the trade mark or copyright work, and identify the infringing content. You can often expect an infringing listing to be taken down within 1-5 business days.

26 I November 2016

If an infringer is using your trade mark in their website’s domain name, there are special dispute resolution procedures available. If successful, the domain name will be suspended and may be transferred to the complainant. To succeed in a domain name dispute you generally need to show: • that you have rights to a name that is identical or similar to the domain name in dispute (for example, a trade mark registration), and • that the current domain name registration is unfair.

CUSTOMS AND COURT ACTION

Aside from these online-specific remedies, traditional enforcement measures are of course available against online infringers. These include sending the infringer a cease and desist letter, working with Customs to stop infringing goods at the border, or filing trade mark infringement proceedings in court.

Talk to us if you are concerned about your intellectual property rights, and we can work with you on the best strategy for your situation.

By Stacey Campbell Solicitor, AJ Park stacey.campbell@ajpark.com

With slow fashion on the rise, do you think fast-fashion is heading for a burnout?

There will always be a market for Fast Fashion, but with focus on educating the consumer on sustainability and the impact it has Slow fashion is here to stay!

– Annupam

With the right kind of people on board, yes. Well, at least we hope.

I’m continually seeing more and more people supporting sustainability in fashion, with fast fashion being a contributor to the demise of the environment.

So for me, personally from the beings I’m surrounded by, yes.

I think fast fashion is unsustainable for not only the planet, but the workers as well.

Unfortunately, I don’t think it will ever burn out. It’s super positive that people are becoming more aware of the disadvantages of fast fashion, but major populations just don’t have the income to invest in quality fair trade wear. I think consumption may slow, but it won’t stop.

– Anon

– Danika Rooney & Holly Emery

– Elise Hislop

Access to technology and the internet fuels the fast fashion industry, providing people with affordable clothing of latest trends, some of which are changing by the week at various retailers such as H&M. It is difficult to say whether slow fashion will even have the slightest impact on the fast-fashion industry in this day and age, especially considering that many people simply don’t have the money to invest in designers who are working at their own pace. The prices are too high. Fast-fashion is easy and available to everyone.

– Anon

I believe that fast fashion will increase because it is sometimes cheaper to buy clothes that are made through fast fashion. Slow fashion will steadily decline.

– Anon

Yes!!!

I think the key culture we need to address is the one of buying and disposing of too much clothing, whether it is ‘fast’ or ‘slow’. Why are we embarrassed about wearing the same dress to two weddings? Why don’t women wear the same outfit two days in a row? Of course fashion continues to involve and fashion designers reference each other’s work but it is unfortunate that these references are presented as obvious and recognisable trends from season to season. The combination of being embarrassed by old clothes and the fact that old clothes are so easily recognised because of strong trends means we feel pressure to constantly be buying new clothing. Of course nobody thinks they can afford designer clothes because we all have unrealistic expectations about the quantities we should be buying.

– Anon

I think there is now more demand for slower fashion as people are continually becoming aware of the effects fast fashion is having on our environment. I think consumers are starting to change their way of thinking and looking for well made, unique and original clothing that isn’t the same as what everyone else purchasews. There is something special about having a well made garment over a long period of time, the character changes the more it’s worn.

- Georgia apparelmagazine.co.nz

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9. RICK OWENS -the label has been dressing fashion’s edgiest followers for more than twenty years. Priced on average at $756, this is streetwear for grown-ups. It’s dark, fierce and utterly luxurious. Cue a new wave of devotees with streetwear’s resurgence.

The 11 Hottest Street Brands Right Now New to the street game?

Get familiar with the hottest brands worldwide right now.

Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITED Streetwear has come to the attention of retail. Yeezy aside (there’s no competing with that marketing), some are legacy brands with streetwear at their core – those guys are winning big with the current resurgence – others are new kids on the block.

10. BASH – rapper Wiz Khalifa’s collection for fathers and their sons. Enough said.

BASH

VETEMENTS

6. VANS – replacing Adidas’s Stan Smith as the cool sneaker of the moment is Van’s classic high top.

The brand is stocked widely – in fact in the last three months there’s been a 45% YOY increase in new Vans arrivals.

VAN’S

7. PUMA X FENTY – the sportswear giant has successfully bridged the athletic-street crossover with its Rihanna collaboration. Mostly monochrome, items from the line on average cost $157 and sell out in 19 days. In the last three months, the fur sliders and platform creeper sneakers have been bestsellers.

8. HOOD BY AIR – priced similarly to Off-White at an average of $429, Hood By Air (or HBA) goes for conversational pieces with an overblown silhouette and punk fastenings and embellishment.

SUPREME

FEAR OF GOD

1. SUPREME – the kings of scarcity whose shoppers are the very definition of hypebeasts. They only sell menswear and deal in some stellar collaborations.

11. FEAR OF GOD – one of the fortuitously timely things about streetwear is its genderneutrality and gender-blending. Fear of God do this well: their current menswear offering includes men’s kilts, carried by Selfridges, Barneys and Farfetch.

The brand’s velcro strap hi-tops, priced at $1,195, with their unbranded dystopian look, have sold particularly well in recent months.

2. GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY – the new kid on the block making post-Soviet fashion cool. Buddies with the Vetements crew, his own collection also sells out in a flash. This season he shot the Topman holiday campaign.

3. OFF-WHITE – if you didn’t know them already, you’ll soon spot wearers of their pavement striped motif. With an average price of $451, this premium label has fast sell through.

HOOD BY AIR

4. KITH – with just four New York stores (plus the Bergdorf shop-in-shop) this US streetwear label is beyond buzzy. Its products are highly functional, cater to men, women and kids and frequently collaborates with Nike.

5. VETEMENTS – if there was a litmus test for fashion/no-fashion, Vetements would be it. They are a polarising collective churning out hits like the DHL t-shirt, metal inspired Titanic t-shirts and super-luxe hoodies. Averaging at $1,142 an item, Vetements sits at the top end of the streetwear offering.

28 I November 2016

KITH

If you’re entering into streetwear, not only do you need to get the above brands on your radar, but you’ll also need to get familiar with your competitors.

There’s players out there who understand product very well and have a great brand reach.

We’re talking retailers like End Clothing, LN-CC, Oki-Ni and Need Supply.

Analyze what they sell at which price points and take a close look at what doesn’t work for them and ends up discounted. Which is what we’re here to help you with!

I WOKE UP LIKE THIS

The pyjama dressing trend started late 2015, and is now in fullswing and poised to infiltrate high-street stores. With many fashion month street style stars wearing pyjama-style ensembles, the trend is making its way to wider variety of consumers, outside the echelons of high-fashion. Pyjama dressing has adopted several key pieces which are both wearable and practical for the average consumer.

The boldest way to wear the trend is undoubtedly a matching set, as shown at Dolce & Gabbana and ChloĂŠ. Important features of a matching set of pyjamas for day-wear are a flattering cut, high quality fabric, and sophisticated prints and colour palettes.

Matching sets have mainly been relegated to catwalks and high-end designers, and sell at higher price points.

A traditional pyjama top has become an entrylevel way to acknowledge the trend, as consumers can dress them up with workwear pants or pair them with denim for a more casual look. Designers have been utilising quintessential aspects of the classic pyjama look; contrast piping and cuts featuring notched lapels and breast pockets - to create easy-to-wear garments which have wide consumer appeal. Fabric choice is important, the key to achieving the pyjama look is a luxurious, quality material which exudes easy elegance. In highstreet stores, day-wear pyjama tops have been priced at a mid to high price point, as there is still a relatively limited selection of styles available.

Moving to dresses, pyjama influences can be seen in shirt dresses which employ similar contrast piping, and silky fabrics. Cuts of pyjama-inspired dresses are less classic than the traditional pyjama-style top, and usually employ a relaxed fit, or feature a self-tie waist belt. Beautiful fabrics, with colourful prints make pyjama dresses popular as an ontrend, statement item. Pyjamastyle dresses retail at a variety of price points, from low to high, with a wider variety of styles and options available to consumers.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

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