Apparel Magazine // November 2017

$ 9.00

NOVEMBER 2017 I VOL 50 I NO 11

All about Algorithms

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Proud to be New Zealand Made pg 12

Retail Tech Solutions

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MR RETAILER JUST ACCEPT IT, AMEX IS OK It all started when I was shopping. Now I’m an impulse buyer and definitely a strong believer of retail therapy. I had made my selection and decided on the entire outfit, and being my cheeky self, I thought – ‘I’ll put it on my Amex and grab some bonus points, this will get me well on my way to Fiji’.

Unfortunately, that store did not accept American Express and therefore I looked back at my checkout bag and had to think about my purchases, did I really want them? Without my Visa and only my Amex hot in my hands. In making me think and not just swipe, the retailer lost the sale. Another impulse buy down the drain. Are you putting a barrier up to the sale? By only accepting Visa and Mastercard, how many sales have you missed out on?

By accepting American Express, customers spend more and there are thousands of us. American Express Card Members in New Zealand actually spend more than those who carry any other credit card as seen in recent reports.

Why do consumers spend more? For every dollar spent, the cardholder earns points which turn into rewards like flights, movies or restaurant vouchers.

Members are always looking to use their Amex to earn more points to reap the rewards sooner and yes I know – there is a cost to rewards but there is on all loyalty programmes.

By becoming an American Express-accepting merchant, you receive access to a range of useful services, including tools to help manage your business, world-class fraud protection 24/7, and a range of benefits and services to help make your cash flow more efficient. Accepting American Express means so much more than just accepting a credit card. I’m not an Amex rep but maybe I should be. Amex does very little to help themselves in changing retailer perception. The card is considered by retailers to be too expensive to

accept, and this is the number one reason that I’m told everywhere that doesn’t take it.

Amex doesn’t address this issue and merchants are left to make up their own minds about the card, with misinformation being the main problem. Come on, Amex, get in behind merchants, explain your charges in clear concise language because they just don’t get it. I know that Amex here is far from home base, but really, we could do with hearing why accepting Amex makes good business sense. Give us a call, we’d love to tell our readers how Amex can benefit them.

Sorry, but I want to use my card and get my points and you’re not helping!

For those of you who rushed to read my joke, here’s another golf one.

A husband takes his wife one morning to learn how to play golf. The wife swings and slices it right into a huge window of a huge house on the side of the course, so they make their way over to the house to apologise to the owner.

As they walk in, a vase was in pieces on the floor. “I am so sorry,” exclaimed the wife. “I’m learning and not very good.”

The owner interrupts: “It is quite alright. You see, I am a genie and was trapped in that vase for the last 300 years. You have released me and I would like to grant you two wishes. I will keep the third for myself as you broke my window.” The couple look at each other in amazement.

“I want lots of money!” the wife announced.

“Done,” replied the owner.

“I’d like a beautiful home in every country,” requested the husband.

“And so you shall have it,” said the owner. The couple were over the moon and thanked the man for his kindness.

“As for my wish,” he continued, “I have been trapped in that case for so long without a woman. I would very much like to have sex with your beautiful wife.”

The husband turned to his wife: “I don’t know, maybe we should do it. He did give us all that money and property...” The wife agreed. The owner whisked the wife upstairs. Hours later, he came downstairs to grab a glass of water. The husband was still waiting. The man asked: “If you don’t mind me asking, how old is your wife?”

“She’s 32 and I’m 34,” replied the husband. “Why do you ask?”

“Well, you’re both a bit old to still believe in genies.”

WILHELMINA: Defining Beauty

by Eric Wilson Wilhelmina, the storied modelling agency, is celebrating fifty years of beauty and talent. The agency has been home to some of the world’s biggest talents including Anjelica Huston, Isabella Rossellini and Whitney Houston. With a foreword by Patti Hansen, Wilhelmina: Defining Beauty is not only a collection of iconic fashion images but also a commentary on the place of an agency in discovering and empowering new talent.

LOUIS VUITTON: A Passion For Creation: Art, Fashion And Architecture

by Valerie Steele The collaborations of Louis Vuitton are legendary and range from fashion to architecture - with a focus on constant innovation and design excellence. Covering the period from the late 1990’s until today, this 536-page book brings together the essence of Louis Vuitton in all their modern-day glory.

caitlan@reviewmags.com @NZAPPAREL

ITEMS: Is Fashion Modern?

CHAIRMAN PUBLISHER GENERAL MANAGER EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR STAFF WRITER EDITORIAL ASSISTANT ADVERTISING SALES PHOTOGRAPHER

Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Mark Fullerton - mark@reviewmags.com Courtney Macris - courtney@reviewmags.com Ankita Singh - ankita@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com

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SENIOR DESIGNER Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com GRAPHIC DESIGNER Tay James Marriott - tjames@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287 Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794

NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2017 NZ Apparel Magazine.

by The Museum of Modern Art Items: Is Fashion Modern? is an encyclopedia listing 111 items of iconic fashion items that have had a profound impact on the world in the 20th and 21st centuries. It includes concise yet in-depth essays on the history of iconic designs such as Levi’s 501 jeans, the YSL Le Smoking jacket, and the Breton shirt.

They are accompanied by archival images, fashion photography, film stills and documentary shots.

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AN INSTANT COLLECTABLE LATEST TECHNOLOGY DELIVERS IMMACULATE GARMENTS AT SPEED With nearly 40 years’ experience in the industry, C&F Garment Management have built their reputation on ensuring garments reach the store on time, every time, looking perfect. They boast an expert eye for detail and smart head for logistics, and offer a full spectrum of services from garment washing through to skilled reworks and warehousing.

Chris Ralph, owner and Managing Director of C&F, said the installation of their new Viet Tunnel Finisher is a significant investment in the business, and the future of the garment industry in New Zealand.

“Our new Tunnel Finisher means we can now turn around immaculate garments, even faster than before. As well as speed, it delivers hugely superior results, especially on harder fabrics to finish. Plus it produces a special ‘steam doll’ effect, and is really effective at removing odors in textiles. In short, you see what 18 years of new state of the art technology means, when you see this thing operating!”

Before settling on the new Tunnel Finisher, Chris made a trip Germany to see it in action and was impressed with what he saw.

“What makes the Viet unique is that it was

developed in close collaboration with top European garment manufacturers. So, we know that this was specifically designed to meet the current needs of the industry. Fabrics have evolved a lot over the years, and this is brilliant on the new, specialty fabrics as well as traditional fabrics such as cotton.”

Chris’ wife and business partner Caroline, who is C&F’s marketing director, said that the new Viet Tunnel Finisher is also helping them to deliver on their environmental commitment.

“It lowers our overall energy use by at least 40 percent, by producing consistent, energy-efficient drying and smoothing. This sits alongside our other green initiatives including comprehensive recycling of all our cardboard and plastics.”

C&F’s general manager, Kerri Wayman, added that to really appreciate the new Tunnel Finisher, customers should come and take it for a ‘test drive.’

“We’re really excited about how it’s performing, and would love to show customers what it can do for their garments. They just need to get in touch with me on 09 570 9813, and arrange a time to visit.”

Asahi Super Dry has created a limited-edition sneaker collection in collaboration with ASICS Tiger. The Japanese powerhouses have created 30 pairs of sneakers to mark Asahi Super Dry’s 30th anniversary. Highly anticipated as one of the most coveted sneaker launches of 2017, the five designs represent and celebrate the Asahi brand, history and lifestyle. Four designs pay homage to Asahi’s signature range, referencing the Silver Can and the Black Asahi Super Dry Box in a dark pallet of greys and blacks with red accents. The fifth design, Minka, represents traditional Japanese housing and features a lighter pallet of tan and taupe. “The collection is the perfect marriage of these iconic Japanese brands, and they’ve created something that captures both of their unique aesthetics,” said Jade Clark, marketing manager for Asahi NZ. Each design is fitted with custom features including laser etched Asahi logo lace lock sets, interchangeable lace sets, dust bags and limitededition packaging. Exclusive to New Zealand, the Asahi x ASICS collection will be available to purchase following the launch event this month. While the shoes are not on general sale, there is one five-piece collection featuring each design on TradeMe. All proceeds will go to New Zealand Red Cross.

PERSONALISED PACKAGING Deadly Ponies has launched a new campaign for Christmas titled #WrapLove. Featuring some very special packaging elements that underpin the brand’s love of fine details.

Available exclusively in the four Deadly Ponies stores, each is made on the spot

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for each customer. Building on Deadly Ponies’ already popular in-store monogramming service for their hero products, this customisable service exemplifies the brand’s commitment to beautiful and memorable in-store experiences.

We have ONE of the 30 pairs in existence to giveaway to one lucky reader. They are a Men’s Size 10 and to enter simply email caitlan@reviewmags.com “ASAHI X ASICS”.

AUSTRALIA’S FASHION BUYING EVENT

SAT 10 — SUN 11 FEBRUARY 2018 ROYAL HALL OF INDUSTRIES SYDNEY

Discover the latest women’s apparel, footwear & accessories from Australia & beyond REGISTER TO VISIT: FASHIONEXPOSED.COM apparelmagazine.co.nz

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MAKING SAFER LEATHER & TEXTILE CHOICES THANKS TO OEKO-TEX® CERTIFICATION

MODERN MANNERS IS BACK

New Zealand is a major producer of wool and leather.

This year the export value of wool from the island has reached roughly 600 Mio USD. But can customers feel confident leather and textile goods they buy are safe from harmful levels of chemical substances?

Untreated leather is meant to decompose.

So, various processes such as tanning, dyeing and finishing are used which introduce a host of chemicals, some of which have significant adverse effects on human health, such as hexavalent chromium salts and formaldehyde.

Despite the introduction of numerous hazardous chemicals to the production process, the leather market is increasingly responding to the demand for better regulated, health friendly manufacturing.

Authorities, NGOs and end consumers are all calling for more transparency and stricter regulation

After a year and a half hiatus in New York, Liam Sharma has returned with a new collection titled LOVE LIGHT. Inspired by New York’s 24 hour lights and it’s correlation with his spiritual well-being. “It is a little bit more intense than most previous collections with the imagery, but it was how I was feeling at the time when the campaign was being created,” Sharma told Apparel Magazine.

All of the photography and styling is by Sharma, and the designs were created by Sharma and the inhouse team at Modern Manners.

Available exclusively on their online store www.modernmanners.co.

TESTING, ANALYSIS, CERTIFICATION – SYSTEMATIC, PRECISE AND EFFICIENT.

The LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX® allows leather and leather articles to be tested and certified at all processing stages. TESTEX tests and certifies – worldwide with Swiss reliability. Find more information at www.testex.com | auckland@testex.com

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within the industry. The certification label “LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX®” assures the leather goods you are buying are free from harmful levels of hundreds of substances.

Any leather product, both finished and semifinished, such as shoes or upholstery materials, can be certified according to the standard. During the certification process, leather products are tested for legally banned and dangerous substances, such as formaldehyde, heavy metals and preservative agents.

The closer the product is in contact with the skin and the younger the person wearing it, the stricter the limit values that need to be fulfilled. Therefore, a distinction is made between four product categories: product class I (items for babies and toddlers) through to product class IV (furnishing materials such as upholstery covers).

Amongst the certificate holders around the world, NZ sheepskin producer G.L. Bowron and the retail chain LIDL now instil confidence in their leather products with the “LEATHER STANDARD by OEKOTEX®”.

TESTEX can now provide immediate service to its NZ customers with a branch office in New Zealand which opened earlier this year.

Today’s consumers are more informed, demanding and keen to make conscious purchasing choices.

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WHY PACKAGING IS JUST AS IMPORTANT AS YOUR DESIGN Think that consumers are just influenced by the product? Think again.

Packaging has always played a crucial role in consumer decisions and it is naive to think it hasn’t. Tiffany’s has an average of 250 percent markup on their engagement rings and it isn’t because of the quality, it’s because of consumer demand for that sweet little blue box.

In an age where consumers spend less than 59 seconds on a website and an average of 18 minutes deciding what to watch on Netflix, online or in-store you may only have one chance - a make or break moment to complete the sale. Most statistics globally cite a closing of the gap between online and in-store preference by consumers for shopping for fashion and footwear. For a brand having instant recognition of their packaging and labelling provides engagement and brings out that must have demand in consumers. It is necessary to simplify what you want your brand to communicate, whether it’s on an in-store or online carry bag, box, tissue, or wrapping paper – you can convey a lot of brand message with the material used, colour and wording.

First of all, what are the brand values? Why this particular product or garment? What is the brand story?

Here are some key elements to consider when designing packaging: STAND OUT FROM THE CROWD Hundreds of thousands of products are flooding the same market, all bidding for the consumer’s attention.

With consumers wanting the entire experience, from product to packaging to reflect the brand message, it’s important not to overlook the importance of packaging. Check out the competition, look at brand leaders, think how can you be different, how unique is the brand offering? Many times you’ll see consumers have uploaded an image to social media that shows

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the packaging as well as the garment or footwear. The reason they do this is that they are engaged with the brand - from Tiffany’s blue boxes, to Gucci bags, to Apple’s white - it’s all about the entire experience.

CHOOSE COLOUR WISELY The brain reacts differently to each colour, so colour can sway consumer buying decisions. For example, light sky blue is considered a very playful colour, while a dark navy comes across as professional. Blue is considered, worldwide, to be the most liked colour, but that doesn’t mean it should be used. Research your customer profile before finalising the colour palette.

BE MEMORABLE Think about your favourites brands; what makes them memorable? Just look at Tiffany’s, Gucci, and Apple – you know their imagery instantly. Marketing the packaging as well as the product is a powerful tool that can be utilised in-store and online. Logo design can be smack bang in the middle of packaging, off centre, or repeating pattern. The subtle hints by repeating the logo across packaging in smaller segments also work in consumer retention. It’s crucial to push brand awareness to keep the brand front of mind for your customer’s next purchase. It’s important to note that where there are changes to logo or packaging there has been some backlash from consumers. If the brand is already heavily recognised, if desired, only make small incremental changes.

Established brand or new launch? We challenge you to revisit your packaging decision. There is no one size fits all, so when it comes to the decisions consumers are making, brands must differentiate or die. Packaging is one way to enhance and distinguish a brand.

TO COPY OR NOT TO COPY

Consumers are mostly on autopilot while shopping and this is where copycat packaging comes it. To this day, copycat packaging is still tricking shoppers in-store and online. Retailers are continuing to mislead their customers by designing similar packaging to a popular product or well-known brand. Using eyetracking technology in a research by British Brands Group, the study monitored the time shoppers took to find products, the accuracy of decision-making and the participants’ recall of the products they had seen.

Results showed that up to 20 percent of the time the ‘copycat’ product was mistaken for the brand, and increased to 64 percent when only the copycat version was present. The director of British Brands Group, John Noble, explained that this kind of misleading packaging is unlawful but goes unchallenged in the UK. “We devote seconds to each [choice] and rely on shortcuts to make our choices. Products in similar packaging prey on this, prompting mistakes and encouraging false assumptions.”

“Another brand is copying me, what can I do?” Reach out to the company and ask them to stop their activity before taking any action*.

Make sure it’s in an email or written letter.

Trademark your packaging or brand.

Trademark law provides extra protection for trademarks with a reputation, which allows owners to prevent third parties using their trademarks where such use leads to an unfair advantage over or a detrimental effect on the trademark design. However, in order to qualify for this ‘extra protection’ you need to show that your trademark is known by a significant part of the public. No, you don’t have to show that the public would potentially confuse or be unable to distinguish the two brands or products. However, you can show that the relevant demographic would make a link between the trademarked design and the competitor’s one. *Specialist advice should always be sought before making contact with a competitor.

COVERIS In 2013, Sun Capital acquired five leading packaging companies who were regional leaders around the globe and created Coveris. Since then, a further seven packaging companies, including Elldex Packaging in Australasia, have joined making Coveris the fifth largest plastics packaging company in the world.

Coveris Australasia pride themselves as being the flexible packaging partner of choice that customers trust to protect their brands and enhance their products.

“Coveris has expanded its profile to the market from being a standard consumables packaging supplier to being a real partner for value-driven businesses, where customers’ product and business needs are at the forefront,” said Managing Director, Ron Hooper.

“Great packaging will always be required.” Hooper added that their audience is now more informed and has higher expectations around unique innovation and sustainability to drive business growth.

More and more retailers are looking to Coveris to help drive their brand through packaging innovation. Coveris’ point of difference is their key market strategy and how they look to align their customers’ needs and their business requirements to make them successful. “We are market orientated, and partnership focused, rewarding our customers as they grow with us.”

Coveris offer online integration, a global trading

platform, product made in New Zealand in their purpose built state-of-the-art facility, sustainable best practice consulting, trans-Tasman distribution network and access to an in-house technical team and graphic designer. All these additional attributes enable Coveris to be quick-to-market and offer a unique supply solution. Fundamental product knowledge and how to best represent the customer’s business needs is Coveris’ speciality.

MAD ABOUT HUE LADY IN RED The colour of fire, passion, love, courage, energy!

Red is the most powerful colour in the world. As an emotionally intense colour, red enhances human metabolism, increases respiration rate, and raises blood pressure. It also has high visibility which is why stop signs, traffic lights and fire trucks are red.

Sub-shades: Pink – Romance, love, friendship, feminine, passive.

Dark red – Vigor, rage, anger, leadership, malice, wrath.

Brown – Stability, masculine, harvest, fall.

ORANGE CRUSH A combination of the energy of red and the happiness of yellow – Orange is associated with joy and sunshine.

It also denotes creativity, determination, encouragement and enthusiasm. Orange comes across as a hot colour and gives the sensation of heat. Despite this, orange is not aggressive like Red. Sub-shades: Gold – Wisdom, wealth, high-quality, prestige.

Dark Orange – Deceit, Distrust.

Red-Orange – Desire, pleasure, domination, aggression, thirst.

YELLOW SUBMARINE Similar to orange, yellow is the colour of sunshine.

Commonly paired with cheerfulness, intellect, loyalty, spontaneity and even stimulates mental activity. A bright, pure yellow grabs attention, like taxis in New York.

However, when overused, yellow has a very disturbing

effect and is known to make babies cry more. The most effective warning signs are yellow and black. Most men perceive yellow as a childish or lighthearted colour, so it is not usually seen in expensive or prestigious products for men.

Sub-shades: Dull/Dingy Yellow – caution, decay, sickness, jealousy.

Light Yellow – intellect, freshness, joy.

GREEN LIGHT Nature is a dominate connotation to the colour green as well as growth, harmony, freshness, and fertility.

Stability and endurance is also common as it has a strong emotional correspondence with safety.

Sub-shades: Dark Green – ambition, greed, money and jealousy.

Yellow Green – sickness, cowardice, discord, and jealousy.

Olive Green – traditional colour of peace.

CYAN-TIFICALLY PROVEN Common shades of primary blue symbolises trust, loyality, wisdom, confidence, intelligence and faith.

Strongly considered to be beneficial to the body and mind by slowing metabolisms and producing a calming effect. Airlines, airports, air conditioners, water products, cleaning liquids – all of which commonly use the colour blue in their packaging and design. Highly accepted among males, blue is a preferred colour. Blue also suppresses appetites.

Sub-shades:

Light blue – health, healing, understanding, soft.

Dark Blue – knowledge, power, integrity, seriousness.

Aqua/Cyan – emotional healing, protection.

PURPLE HAZE Associated with royalty, it symbolises power, nobility, luxury and ambition. Wisdom, wealth and extravagance can also be conveyed. According to a recent survey, almost 75 percent of American pre-adolescent children prefer purple compared to other colours.

Sub-shades: Light Purple – romantic, nostalgic feelings, feminine.

Dark Purple – gloom, sad, frustration, magic.

NIGHTS IN WHITE SATIN Virginity, innocence, goodness, purity and light are what comes to mind of consumers when they see white.

Its most popular connotation is perfection. Because of snow, white can also mean coolness or cleanliness. The simplicity of white is used a lot in high-tech products such as Apple.

PAINT IT BLACK Black may be considered a classic, but has a variety of undertones from power to death to mystery. It can be peaceful or aggressive. Evil or very formal. Black is also the universal colour of grief. Contrasting well with bright colours, black can also give a feeling of perspective or depth. Using a black background can diminish readability.

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ALL ABOUT ALGORITHMS

he word ‘algorithm’ gets thrown around a lot these days, with supposedly an algorithm for everything - a seamless way to improve your digital marketing and online offering. But what exactly are algorithms?

And how are they applicable to fashion companies?

Apparel spoke with Paulo Sampaio, the Senior Data Scientist at EDITED, a retail technology company analysing over 660 million product SKUs in real-time.

EDITED help global retail businesses utilise data in order to ensure they have the right product at the right price at the right time - so needless to say; they’re algorithm experts!

To put it simply, an algorithm is a step by step recipe to solve a problem. Algorithms can perform a set of processes or calculations, leading to the desired result. In the apparel retail industry, for example, algorithms can extract information from product names, descriptions and even product reviews to more accurately categorise items. Algorithms can also extract information such a colour, pattern or details from a product image, which can then suggest specific or similar products to a customer. This is the technology which is behind the recommendations which large e-tailers such as ASOS often make to consumers. In the advertising realm, different types of algorithms are already being used through targeting advertising based on consumer profiles and preferences.

Algorithms and data science techniques are also very good at identifying patterns when the data is highly structured. “There are a slew of insights that companies can gain from this data, such as identifying consumer buying habits or understanding what products are trending and the average price point of these items,” said Sampaio. When implemented properly, algorithms can analyse huge sets of data at lightning speed, allowing companies to make informed retail and business decisions based on concrete data and analysis.

Today, the success of online shopping revolves around three factors: personal experience, ease-of-use and convenience, which are all being addressed by artificial intelligence and deep analytics. The latest technology advancements are making it simpler for people to shop with a few easy mouse clicks or taps on

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their phone. It’s now common for e-commerce sites to suggest products to boost sales, such as by providing customer-styled images through greater product categorisation, or through customer reviews. “The greater the options are for both retailer and consumer to filter the results to align with their needs, the better the experience will be for the user,” added Sampaio.

Unfortunately, algorithms aren’t a magic way to increase your merchandising and marketing effectiveness.

“Algorithms are only as good as the data they need to analyse,” explained Sampaio.

“The higher the volume of the data and the more straightforward the information is, the better it will be in understanding patterns and providing insights.”

However, if the data is new or novel, it’s still critical for humans to be involved in the process. EDITED employs a team of data scientists who work alongside their retail experts to make sense of the terabytes of information surrounding product pricing, discounts, assortments and other datasets to deliver accurate insights to customers.

For retailers who are not yet global players (or not aiming to go down that route), algorithms can still play a significant role in furthering the business. All retailers these days are awash in data, so companies of all sizes can benefit from algorithms. For smaller businesses, it makes sense for them to

find a technology partner who can help them make better sense of the data that’s available to them so that they can gain a competitive edge in the market.

That may be a local, New Zealand data and analytics company, many of which have been popping up recently. Typically, these firms offer a high degree of personalisation and boutique service - which may be a one-off cost to a fashion business.

So with such a strong emphasis on e-commerce and digital marketing, does Sampaio see bricks and mortar as a relic of a bygone mall-shopping era? It’s not so black and white. E-commerce has clearly proven to be a lucrative channel for many brands and retailers, and a cornerstone of its success has centred around the availability of real-time data to effectively target the savvy consumer.

“We see traditional bricks and mortar still having a clear place in the retail sector,” added Sampaio. Just like algorithms, brands with a bricks and mortar presence will also evolve this facet of their business. This evolution will undoubtedly revolve around finding ways to improve the customer experience and provide greater personalisation to the shopper - two things which are of increasing importance to Millennial shoppers.

Half Windsor Knot

ALL TIED UP

The art of tying a tie is one of those timeless skills that everybody should know. But forget about your high school tie which stayed knotted for approximately four years. Apparel caught up with John Crompton from Parisian Neckwear to learn some key knots. So whether you’re styling, merchandising or selling this quintessential male accessory, you’ll have a few more tricks up your sleeve to suit any occasion or customer.

Here’s some tie lingo, so you don’t get knotted up with our instructions: the thick end of the tie is called the blade, the thin end is the tail. The plain fabric underneath the tie, which folds into the tie like the lining of a jacket, is called the tipping. While ties are a formalwear staple, Google reports that their most searched question is ‘How to tie a tie.’

The most basic type of knot is the Four In Hand Knot.

This knot is the one most people can tie, as it is easy to remember. It takes its name from the knot used to hold four reins together when driving a horse and carriage. The blade should be longer than the tail when placed around the neck, then cross the blade over the tail and cross it back underneath. Pass the blade over the tail again and thread it upwards, between the tie and the neck. Pulling the blade down in front of the tail, thread the blade through the second loop of the tie and pull tightly to make the knot.

The Four In Hand Knot is a good knot for beginners, and it uses a small amount of fabric, meaning it leaves a longlooking tie with a slim knot. The knot shape is small and slightly uneven - good for casual tie moments.

Stepping up the drama, the Half Windsor Knot has a more triangular shape and sounds very fancy. While not as simple as the Four In Hand, the Half Windsor takes more practice, but can easily be perfected by following some simple steps. Start in the same position as the Four In Hand, with the tie draped around the neck - the blade longer than the tail. Cross the blade over the tail and then back underneath the way you came. Here is the difference - instead of passing the blade back across the tail, take it up towards the neck (the tipping should be facing your neck).

Tuck the blade down behind the tail and loop, pulling to the side away from where you just came. At this point, the tipping should face away from your chest. Cross the blade behind the tail and bring it forward around the front of the knot. Thread the blade up through the loop and tuck it in through the front of the knot you’ve just made. “Make sure you hold the loops tightly as you are tying this knot, or your knot will drop out the bottom, and it will lose its shape,” explained Crompton, as one Apparel writer struggled with her loopy Half Windsor. Half Windsor knots are medium sized, with an even triangular shape, and a dimple in the blade at the base of the knot. This knot is a little more formal than the Four In Hand; better for weddings and occasions, or when dressing to impress or wearing a wider cut suit.

Crompton also showed Apparel how to tie an iconic bowtie. The trick? Tying them on your thigh, like you would a shoelace bow. Tie it just above your knee where your leg is a similar width to your neck. The initial hitch is made using the narrower band. Then make your first loop halving the wider part of the bow. Then simply wrap around and tuck the second part in behind making the second loop. It often helps to close your eyes when you first do this.

Tidy it up a little, but don’t make it perfect. “The art of a bowtie is the individuality, it isn’t supposed to be uniform, it’s meant to have personality,” says Crompton. Then simply slip the bow tie off your thigh and onto your neck. Parisian’s bowties have a detachable clasp which means you can easily tie the bow on your thigh and then clip it around your neck.

Last but not least; John’s go-to knot. It’s the same as a Half Windsor, but with a key difference - it easily comes undone when pulled (unlike a Half Windsor, which requires untangling). The positioning, first crossover and first loop are the same. Then simply take the blade across the front of the knot, up through the loop and push down through the knot.The difference is the direction. The result is a slightly more asymmetrical knot.

Here’s a general tip from Crompton; when tying a tie, pop your collar up but leave your top button undone. The reason for this is when the collar is folded down there is strain on the top button. It should instead be done up when the collar has already been folded down, and then the tie hoisted up into position as the last step. Crompton’s final advice; “Practice, practice, practice!”

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JARRAD GODMAN Designer Jarrad Godman grew up in rural Australia and has been creating some form of clothing or accessories for as long as he can remember. “Whether it was for Halloween costumes or my little sister’s Barbie collection,” said Godman.

In 2007, he moved to New Zealand; he studied fine arts at university before switching to a fashion degree at AUT in 2012. “I was given my start in the industry when I was offered a showroom assistant role at Ciel PR in 2011,” said Godman. “I also moved into some styling work while working at Ciel.”

Godman has since launched his label Jarrad Godman. The brand’s core values are diversity, minimal waste, originality, positivity, and humour. As a team of two, Jack Farrant looks after accounting while Godman takes care of the creative and visual aspects of the brand.

Godman’s graduate collection Angler was ordered by Children of Vision which gave the label its start in 2015. Godman added that social media has seriously changed the game. “It allows new designers to connect with an audience without having a large advertising budget or industry contacts.”

Supporting the local industry is very important to Godman. “I want our customers to know that the money they are investing in our pieces is going right back into our economy.” Making their products locally means they are able to have better control over the production process. However, it costs significantly more to manufacture garments in New Zealand. “It means we have not been able to enter the market with competitively priced products, but thankfully we have an amazing following of people who appreciate locally made garments.” Jarrad Godman has recently started working with The Pattern Table in Mount Eden.

Godman is currently looking to expand their wholesale market further in New Zealand as well as gaining some offshore stockists. The latest collection, The Garden, is based on the psychology of breaking up and features a custom print. “We spent countless hours digitally placing thousands of flowers over a large area to create a print that ensures no two garments are the same.

For more information or to become a stockist, email info@jarradgodman.com or call +64 21 258 5281.

MAGAZINE CLOTHING

Linda Savage owns and manages Magazine Clothing and has a great team behind her. All staff members at Magazine possess extraordinary styling ability, masses of creativity and fashion flair, as well as professionalism and an absolute commitment to do whatever it takes to deliver outstanding service.

“They are there to help you look and feel your best, by offering you exceptional service, styling guidance and the attention you deserve,” added Linda.

Linda has always had a passion for good design and an interest in the transformative power of fashion.

As the owner of Magazine Clothing, she is absolutely in her element helping women look and feel good about themselves. Leading up to her involvement with Magazine Clothing, Linda had various roles in the fashion industry, including clothing design and retail management. When the opportunity to take on Magazine Clothing came up, she immediately saw the potential and relished the idea of being in business for herself. She acquired Magazine in December 2006 and opened the Point Chevalier store in August 2008.

12 I November 2017

Next to open was the Mount Eden store in May 2009, later followed by Mount Maunganui in September 2010, then Palmerston North in August 2012, Taihape Outlet in July 2013, Pukekohe in September 2013, New Plymouth in March 2015, Riccarton and Christchurch in August 2016, and most recently Hamilton in March 2017. “We are in the process of relocating our Point Chevalier Outlet store to beautiful new premises in Onehunga as well as opening our online store soon. The operation has grown from two staff to over 30, and enjoys a very loyal following of clients,” she said.

Linda explained that Magazine is very passionate about New Zealand designed and made clothing.

Most of the labels found at Magazine Clothing are made in New Zealand with a few exceptions from Australia and Europe. “The quality of New Zealand made is exceptional, and we find our clients are very happy to pay for a beautifully made New Zealand garment.” Magazine Clothing also has its own label, Magazine, where they work with local designers to create many exclusive styles including High Society, Judith Ann Ford, Jellicoe, Euphoria, Cotura, Lemon Tree, Bittermon, and Classic Group.

Their passionate staff, clothing catering for all sizes (10-26) and ages, and their extensive clothing offering from casual to special occasion is what separates Magazine Clothing from its competitors.

They also offer a complimentary style consultation service to ensure their customers are making the right choice, for their individual look and lifestyle. Each staff member has an expert eye for fashion and interprets consumers’ needs and requirements while developing a unique look.

For more information, visit www.magazineclothing. co.nz or call 09 849 3494.

HONEY LOVE HOMEMADE

After moving to New Zealand two years ago from Adelaide, Renee Wood needed a creative outlet outside of her full-time job as a teacher. “It’s been a dream of mine for a while, so I decided to make it a reality.” Wood grew up loving candles; the ambience they bring to a room. “I was buying so many candles, I thought to myself I should just make them,” she said. The first product she made for Honey Love Homemade was an aromatherapy heat pack range which Wood donates a portion of the sales to Endometriosis NZ. She then moved into candles and the high demand made candles the core of her business.

Her career as a food technology teacher and her love for cooking inspired her candles. “I try and make them smell and sound as yummy as possible,” added Wood. “Majority of my candle range is based on popular desserts and flavours that are found in food like Lemon Cheesecake or Cinnamon Scrolls.” Wood is motivated by her love of making things and being creative. “There are so many amazing small businesses out there that are doing so well for themselves, and I thought why not give it a go!” Sourcing from local New Zealand businesses when possible, Wood likes to think her label is full of positive energy. As a small operation, Wood said her partner is a massive support. “He’s a talented signwriter, so he helps me with all of my signage amongst so many other things.”

In the future, she would love to have a physical store, but her dream is to combine her love of cooking and giftware in a small dessert café.

Wood would love to get local celebrities on board using her products. “Any exposure or celebrity endorsements is always a bonus!” Honey Love Homemade is currently sold online and at markets across Auckland. She is in the process of teaming up with a range of cafés and salons to stock Honey Love Homemade. “We are always looking for new opportunities.” For more information, visit www.honeylovehomemade.bigcartel.com or email honeylovehomemade@gmail.com.

Photo Credit: Minakshi Patel

LIANN BELLIS

The Liann Bellis brand believes very strongly in supporting their local community and take a sense of pride doing so. “Fair trade and ethical, sustainable production are at the forefront of the Liann Bellis brand,” said designer Leanne Greaves.

The Kiwi label was first established in the 80’s after Greaves had returned from travelling overseas with her daughter. “I began creating and manufacturing children’s clothes under the name of Liann Bellis and sold to a number of shops throughout New Zealand.” Her brand relaunched in 2010 with childrenswear and moved into womenswear during the recession.

Greaves grew up in Tauranga but moved to Wellington to study a Diploma in Fashion and Textiles at Wellington Polytechnic Fashion School.

During this time, she won many industry-related awards for her work. She later moved to Nelson with her husband in 1995, but now Greaves has

• Full sample service

found herself spending a lot of her spare time renovating her holiday home in Moetapu Bay, Marlborough.

Feeling great in clothes is so important for any women, explained Greaves, that’s what drives her when she creates collections to build an emotional engagement with her consumers. “I think about the women I design for and how to make them beautiful, confident and powerful.” Liann Bellis currently works with two great Auckland-based manufacturers, Kerilin and Able Fashions.

Greaves said there’d been an enormous change in the industry with the rise of social media and the internet. “It has played a big part in the advancement of a global marketplace. Sadly, the advent of the price-driven disposable fashion that continues to aide in the destruction of our planet and oversupply of cheaply made goods,” she said.

“The decline in the New Zealand industry having to compete with high labour costs, and less and less New Zealand factories able to survive.” She added that now the world allows brands to be built in such short time frames without a trained designer at the helm.

Greaves is the sole designer, pattern maker, business and production manager, but also has two staff members. Helen controls the digitising and marker making of the patterns along with fabric supplies and with the cutting of smaller runs, and Tina who is a sample machinist and does the overseeing of the marketing needs and trims.

Greaves is looking into having their own fabric printed to attain a better supply. “We have proudly maintained our Liann Bellis brand by continuing with our ethically sustainable values, giving

attention to quality and detail,” explained Greaves.

“Therefore we have been gratefully supported by our wonderful customers both here in New Zealand and Australia.”

As Liann Bellis is an online-only retailer and wholesaler to a wide variety of stores in New Zealand and Australia, Greaves is excited to expand on this further with the help of their sales agents Kim Hutchinson (NZ) and Marris Fotheringham (AUS).

• Full production runs 20-2000units p/style

Bespoke, Timeless & Sustainable • Std and shank button attachment • Blind Hemming • Bartacking

• Finishing • Std and keyhole buttonhole • Alterations

RUBY SMALL HOLDINGS LTD. 196 Great North Rd, Grey Lynn, Auckland 1021

www.lizmitchell.co.nz

www.kerilinfashions.co.nz

info@lizmitchell.co.nz +64 9 360 5047 apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 13

SEABREEZE APPAREL

LIZ MITCHELL Designer Liz Mitchell started in the industry as a costume designer for TVNZ on the acclaimed series Gloss and Marlin Bay. The fashion brand Liz Mitchell came to life in 1994 from a deep love of design and fashion and the desire to work in this industry.

Twenty-five years later, Liz Mitchell is established as the leading bespoke, couturier in New Zealand. “I was awarded the MNZM in 2005 for services to the New Zealand fashion industry,” added Mitchell. The label’s small team is filled with skilled technicians in bespoke and couture pattern making, garment sampling and construction, client fittings, and hand finishing. “I have been developing a group of talented artisans producing our hand knits, weaving and crochet.”

The Liz Mitchell brand today is primarily focused on bespoke tailoring and couture.

They have their atelier in Auckland with their flagship showroom as well as seasonal trunk shows to Wellington and other cities by appointment. For her NZFW Autumn/Winter 2018 collection, Mitchell drew inspiration from her background as a Fine Arts graduate, former costume designer, and her experience as a leading designer for almost three decades.

In this collection, she presents a new take on the classic woollen ensemble taking the possibilities inherent in this versatile material to a new level. A radical colour palette inspired by modernist Bloomsbury painter Vanessa Bell’s ethereal, languorous interpretations of female portrait painting. Key pieces include classic handknits that are wrapped and belted, richly coloured velvet suiting, contemporary bomber jackets in Japanese kimono wool, and expertly tailored coats in Harris Tweed. Another signature look from this collection is the structured simplicity of the Vanessa dress with its bias panelling and sweeping hemline. As one of New Zealand’s finest couturiers, Liz Mitchell’s commitment to bespoke tailoring working with luxurious fabric and sustainability, continue to be her trademark.

For more information, visit www.lizmitchell.co.nz.

14 I November 2017

Seabreeze Apparel has been manufacturing fashion and casual-wear for the New Zealand market since the mid-1980’s. Over the years they have evolved to become more of a specialist manufacturer and printer, focussing on sustainable segments of the apparel market where ‘New Zealand Made’ is a key requirement.

“We are very passionate about helping our customers to materialise their New Zealand Made garments,” explained Malcolm Walkinshaw, Seabreeze Apparel’s managing director. “Watching them successfully market their products to both the local and global marketplace brings our company great pleasure.”

Seabreeze’s loyal staff are well aware that the garment they are making may well be purchased by consumers on the other side of the world, and they take great care to ensure every detail is completed to the highest possible standard.

Consumers who choose New Zealand made garments are discerning consumers and they are a valuable audience to have. “These consumers care about where their products are made and who makes them. The clothing brand they select tells you a bit about them and what they value,” added Walkinshaw. “They immediately associate New Zealand Made with ethical manufacturing, high-quality and uniqueness.” As well as enhancing a brand’s image and reputation; Walkinshaw also pointed out that international

consumers find New Zealand Made novel and intriguing.

Maggie Marilyn, Maaike, Juliette Hogan, Jimmy D, Federation, and Workshop are just a few of the New Zealand brands Seabreeze Apparel works with. Providing full-service manufacturing, including fabric selection, design assistance, pattern making, grading and production, is all available in-house at their Silverdale premises, where Seabreeze employ 28 team members.

Printing is also provided if required. Recently, they have invested in computerised pattern making, grading and marking.

“Seabreeze work to build long-term partnerships with our customers, by offering a comprehensive manufacturing service, from patterns to production to retail ready garments,” he said. “We like to get to know our customers, and with our vast experience, we try to add value to our customer’s products where we can. We greatly admire the talent and enthusiasm of our customers that have selected New Zealand Made manufacturing and we believe they have a bright future.”

Their goal is to continue to help grow their customers businesses and to do this, Seabreeze will continue to invest in people, technology and relationships.

For more information, visit www. seabreezeapparel.co.nz or call 09 426 6586.

KERILIN FASHIONS

Established in 1989 to produce fine New Zealand made garments, Kerilin Fashions has evolved to become an efficient sampling, production, and finishing house with quality at affordable prices at its core ethos.

Business Development Manager and director Fraser Wood explained that it’s important to them to ensure the local industry is maintained to supply the fashion industry with New Zealand designed and made garments that are quick to market, have low MOQ’s, and are affordable. “We enjoy watching our young New Zealand designers grow and supply the world with their products which we make,” said Wood. “New Zealand Made is the smartest choice for quality control and ensuring they have a real understanding of their garments.” Wood added that due to the faster lead times possible than offshore, it is also the quickest way to get a return on your investment.

Working with leading New Zealand designers, Kerilin provides sampling services from cutting

to sewing and finishing, as well as full production services. This includes bartacking, keyhole buttons, covered button making and much more.

Kerilin has an in-house team of six, paired with a sampling and finishing team of up to 15 out workers.

Their highly skilled and experienced team can advise on the most efficient and cost-effective methods of garment construction to assist New Zealand designers to deliver the best product at an affordable price.

Kerilin continues to grow as their team gets bigger and becomes synonymous with high-quality finishing at sharp prices in the New Zealand market.

For more information visit www.kerilinfashions. co.nz or call 09 444 9010.

PATTERN POTENTIALS

Sue Bailey has had her own pattern making business for 19 years, and prior to that, she worked in the apparel trade for 17 years. “What a great industry it is to be in,” she said. “Every day is different; every season is different. The work is always interesting, and there are some fantastic people supporting it.” Based in the Waikato, the area once held many manufacturing plants. Bailey said everyone knew each other and all worked and supported each other. “Now there is one Waikato manufacturer left.

It’s a sign of the times, every recession that hits New Zealand hits our trade hard.” Bailey has seen it happen many times over the years and said it’s been sad to see some great companies shut their doors.

Pattern Potentials’ main customer base is New Zealand designers making their ranges locally.

From Bailey’s experience, to make in New Zealand, you need to be a top end designer or have a niche product to survive. “In my business, I send out patterns and makers daily to cutters and

manufacturers, mostly Auckland-based. Last month I spent two days in Auckland visiting those cutters and manufacturers,” she said. “What a fantastic two days, so nice to put faces to names and to meet such hard working passionate people that all strive towards the cause.”

During her visit, she noticed the struggle that some of the cutters and manufacturers were up against. “Firstly, the huge cost of leases and rent.

Another hurdle for many in the trade is the way this industry works so full on seasonally. For part of the year you need as many staff as you can get your hands on and work extra hours to get the work through,” Bailey explained. “The other part of the year you struggle to keep all of your workers busy and paid. For some, restructuring their business to work with this means keeping a small stable workforce that you can run all year round and only take on the work that you can put through with your staffing in the busy times.”

Although her visits were very positive, Bailey added a lot of companies had discarded speciality equipment in the corner. Machinery that was once worth a lot, now worth more to sell as scrap metal. “We no longer have the need for all of the machinery and in some cases, no longer have the skilled people to use the more specialised ones.”

Across the board, New Zealand Made is notably completed to a very high standard, whether it’s a wool coat or a chiffon blouse. “The passion is there, the determination and fight is there, we need to support these people to continue with their great work for us all before it is too late.”

Even though Bailey doesn’t believe New Zealand apparel manufacturing will get any bigger, she

really wouldn’t like to see it get any smaller. The local industry needs to work together to keep New Zealand made alive and to create opportunities for designers and retailers to utilise our local talent. “Is it possible for designers and retailers to spread the seasons?

Can design institutes teach more about the manufacturing process, rather than just design, and producing graduates who are mostly equipped to be garment technicians, writing specs for offshore manufacturers? The trade has many exciting career prospects; I think students need to be a part of that process to be reminded what it truly encompasses and how exciting it can be. Let’s keep New Zealand manufacturing alive. Let’s keep our workforce trained and skilled before it is too late.”

For more information, visit www.patternpotentials. co.nz.

COMPLETE IN-HOUSE GARMENT DESIGN & MANUFACTURE RIGHT HERE IN NEW ZEALAND. For 30 years we have been manufacturing garments for some of New Zealand’s top fashion, sports and outdoor brands.

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Design recommendations and fabric advice In-house pattern making and cutting services Total in-house production Computerised grading and marking Retail ready services including folding, bagging, swing-ticketing, garment labelling, and bar-coding

liann bellis Dans Les Yeux

If you are looking for a New Zealand manufacturer that provides proven performance in quality, lead-times, reliability and value then contact Malcolm or Graeme at Seabreeze Apparel today.

liann bellis design ltd 8/14 Stratford St PO Box 3298, Richmond Nelson 7020 New Zealand ph 03 544 9580 cell 021 968-539

19-21 Manga Rd Silverdale 0932 Phone: 09 426 6586 Email: malcolm@seabreezeapparel.co.nz

www.seabreezeapparel.co.nz

www.liannbellis.co.nz

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 15

orde has almost single-handedly launched lilac as the trend du jour. How? Take a glance at her Instagram, and you’ll find a string of lilac outfits befitting her Melodrama tour. At the same time, social media has begun influencing fashion trends, and zesty hues and unexpected colour combinations are firmly trending - due to their eye-catching Instagram appeal. These trend-making effects have combined, the beautiful shade crept into runway shows and is poised to take hold of the mass market this summer and later in 2018. According to some trend forecasting websites; lilac is usually tough with consumers, but we’re willing to bet with the backing of a style guru like Lorde, consumers will be on board to jump right into the lilac wave. Let’s just say it’s the new Millennial Pink.

Missoni’s extravagant Spring/Summer 18 collection celebrated Angela Missoni’s twentieth year as Creative Director of the famed knitwear brand. With a festive 80’s surfer vibe and pop–art inspired overtones the collection was unmissable; new season aesthetics mixed with retro influences. Layers of sheer, metallic knits with intricate patterns floated effortlessly over equally as sheer socks and strappy stilettos. The ultimate accessory was Missoni’s floppy, oversized sunhats which gave the show a summer night disco feel. Featuring almost the entire colour wheel (as

Creatures Of Comfort Resene Divine

16 I November 2017

Missoni Resene Blue Haze

Joseph Resene Zappo

Hilier Bartley Resene Biloba Flower

usual) Missoni’s collection was particularly heavy on yellow, sky blue and sheer lilac close to Resene Blue Haze. Prints meshed all three hues, although a hefty helping of black patterned knits brought a more practical feel to the fantasy collection.

Hillier Bartley drew heavily on colour-blocking, with their two-tone collection consisting of a soothing combination of camel and iris – similar to Resene Biloba Flower. A trouser suit complete with matching waistcoat and turtleneck in this deep tone had impeccable, curvilinear tailoring and a distinct menswear as womenswear feel. An unexpected element was the use of fishnet stockings, which were layered over suits and gave the collection a dishevelled, marine feeling.

Fresh and youthful was the overarching atmosphere at Peter Pilotto this season. Pilotto ticked off the unexpected colour combination prerequisite by pairing bold pastels. Lilac (near to Resene Lavender) was matched with a crisp minty green, and lustrous pink layers of lace were layered over marigold.

Fabrics were shiny with Japanese-style floral prints, and ruching with string ties and toggles was a detail on almost every garment. Exposed shoulders are still going strong, although asymmetric designs and barely-there spaghetti straps have largely overtaken the off-the-shoulder look.

Pamella Roland’s Monaco-inspired collection was

Pamela Roland Resene Blue Chalk

extra, to say the least, and featured red carpet gowns simply overflowing with sequins and tulle. The vintage designs had an unmistakable royal feel – the kind of statement gown that Kate Middleton might slip on for a state ball or movie premier if she wanted to steal the show. Ostrich feathers were Roland’s trim of choice, on both gowns and shawls, and gave the collection an extra touch of luxury. Sheer layers of tulle in a soft lilac hue close to Resene Blue Chalk made up a gauzy confection of a gown.

Handmaid’s Tale is the subtle trend you didn’t see coming. While modesty dressing has been gaining momentum for a while, a more puritanical, dramatic aesthetic has caught on – a trend epitomised by Joseph’s collection. Long, pointed collars were the order of the day; alongside slouchy jumpsuits and oversized suiting. Leather mixed with lightweight summer fabrics, and the colours evolved from stark monochromes to a variety of soft colours; reds, turquoises and a lilac close to Resene Zappo.

Rocker grunge was back on trend at Zadig & Voltaire, mixed with a dishevelled Little House On The Prairie influence and hints of military utilitarianism. Sound confused? It wasn’t – the monochrome hues simplified the looks, blending them with a smooth cohesion. When a more varied colour palette did appear, it was dusty and soft – with gentle, muted hues. A deep royal purple was the

Peter Pilotto Resene Lavender

Colours available from

Resene ColorShops

Roberto Cavalli Resene Fog

www.resene.co.nz

standout tone close to Resene Boogie Wonderland was present in silky, billowing dresses which evoked 70’s disco glamour. Camo was another polarising element in the collection, which 2000’s revivalists have yet to embrace fully.

Creatures Of Comfort’s collection was whimsical and yet minimalist, an unusual balance brought to life through the juxtaposition of Japanese–inspired tailoring and fabrics straight from the wardrobe of a French Instagram influencer. Très chic. While ruffles tend to look overtly feminine, in the midst of this subtle collection they fully evoked the innocence and naïveté which catapulted them into favour in the first place. The palette was light with oatmeals and white aplenty. Hints of blue and purple peeked through in a subtle shade akin to Resene Divine.

In a collection heavy on the safari-inspired suiting looks, a group of lilac hued garments stood out as a salute to the new season. Roberto Cavalli’s typical wafty bohemia was eschewed for Spring/Summer 2018 in favour of power dressing. Strong shoulders, heavy accessories and sharp tailoring were perhaps a reaction to the fourth-wave of the feminist movement, which has elicited artistic responses from a variety of high profile designers. The lilac (similar to Resene Fog) was a pop of colour amongst a mostly earth-toned and animal printed collection and was undoubtedly the standout look of the collection.

Zadig + Voltaire Resene Boogie Wonderland

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Incorporating merchandise planning, back office systems and retail POS functionality – Apparel21 Retail might be the software solution you’re looking for. Benefiting bricks and mortar stores, this single integrated solution creates a sense of synergy for the fast-paced retail environment. By eliminating the need for multiple systems, manual processes are removed, errors are reduced, and data visibility is improved for better decision making.

A highlight of Apparel21 Retail is its realtime data display and ability to create custom

reports. This means accurate decisions can be made efficiently. Designed specifically for the fashion industry, Apparel21 Retail requires little customisation. Thinking of making the switch?

Apparel21’s industry consultants can map existing retail systems to ensure the transition is as seamless as possible. When time is money on the retail floor, Apparel21 Retail manages it all to keep stores stocked and sales monitored.

For more information visit www.apparel21. com or call 03 8415 9300.

The traditional cash register is becoming more of a rare sighting. Increasingly, retailers are choosing to forego an obtrusive cash drawer in favour of a cashless approach.

Many leading POS providers offer the ability for retailers to operate with only a computer screen or even an iPad. This change undoubtedly relies on the fact that a decreasing amount of consumers prefer to pay cash, but also provides a solution to the danger of theft which retailers often face, especially in the holiday season.

Barker’s Ponsonby Guide Shop have done away with cash registers and tills, providing their retail workers only with an iPad enabled with mobile payment abilities. Dispensing with a counter breaks up the space and layout in a store, which disrupts the typical flow and barriers between customers and employees.

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18 I November 2017

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CLICK AND COLLECT

A UNIFIED COMMERCE SOLUTION

Speedy shipping is the name of the game, and customers expect to receive goods as fast as they’ve clicked ‘checkout’. With the presence of a retail store in the same city as the purchaser, there is an expectation that goods can (and should) be shipped or couriered on the same day as an online purchase, or at least the next day. While this may be easier for larger companies, whose size can absorb and offset the cost and complexity of flexible shipping, smaller companies must hold themselves to the same standards. It is vital to find some way of covering the cost of quick couriering, whether this is by charging customers more for speedy shipping or covering the cost within their retail pricing structure. Another aspect of these shipping pressures is flexibility which must be offered to customers. The click-and-collect model allows consumers to pick up their goods in-store, and avoid waiting for shipping or dealing with delivery-related difficulties. Customers are increasingly utilising the entire omnichannel experience in one purchase and expect that these channels will blend seamlessly and allow them to have a smooth and straightforward shopping experience. In-store pick-ups mean additional logistical responsibility must fall on retail assistants, who are now doing the work of a warehouse pick and packer, as well as brand managers who must ensure efficient shipping systems are in place for retail assistants to be successful with increased responsibilities.

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Payment Express has supported the growing e-commerce and in-store trends in New Zealand by being the first e-commerce gateway and local acquirer to support China UnionPay acceptance, the Chinese consumer’s payment method of choice. Payment Express has also developed a proprietary bank to bank payment solution called ‘Account2Account’ that allows customers without a credit or debit card to make online payments to businesses in New Zealand and Australia. Payment Express provides a consolidation of multiple payment services allowing businesses to deal with a single company for all their payment needs. This helps eliminate cost centres, failure points and provides merchants with a reliable and scalable solution that helps their business grow. “We are the most widely integrated solution allowing merchants to integrate payments in-store and online and then also use the same solutions in overseas markets. For example, we’ve assisted hundreds of NZ businesses with their expansion into the USA, UK and beyond,” explained Daniel Favier, Sales Manager from Payment Express.

Andy Cullen is the original software developer and founder of Payment Express. He developed various payment-related products in the late 1990’s. As an employee and contractor, Cullen developed software to solve problems for large corporates. With retailers adopting Windows PCs at that time, the inspiration was to take the bespoke systems and integration that only large retailers could afford and make a ‘shrink wrap’ product that benefits all retailers. This was the concept that inspired PC-EFTPOS to be created which eventually led to the Payment Express integrated solutions you now see in the majority of NZ’s major retailers, vending machines and ecommerce websites.

Their long-term goal is to invest in new payment

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technology, and markets as current technologies become commoditised. “More specifically to see Payment Express recognised as the premier tier 1 payment integration provider in the world, especially in key markets like the US and Europe” said Favier.

The future of payments is always changing, especially with mobile technology solutions such as Apple Pay, Android Pay, Samsung Pay, etc picking up in popularity.

These mobile wallets are still reliant on the traditional scheme link model, so it is unlikely they will entirely replace credit cards in their current state. However, the future definitely lies in the use of mobile and wearable devices. “Whether the transaction model moves to blockchain technology or continues with the current scheme links, Payment Express will continue to be at the forefront of the industry, driving connectivity in payments for NZ merchants.”

Payment Express provides a unique unified commerce solution which allows businesses to view their customers and payments across channels and regions. By being able to tokenise cards in-store, merchants can recognise those cardholders when they shop online through a Payment Express gateway or at different store locations in NZ or around the world. For more information, visit www.paymentexpress.co.nz.

Apparel21 offers an integrated system to manage and interpret data for core business activities to improve efficiencies

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apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 19

10 WAYS TO MASTER LAST MINUTE CHRISTMAS MARKETING

Kaylie Smith

HEAD OF SMB FACEBOOK AUS & NZ 1. TARGET THOSE LAST-MINUTE SHOPPERS. Haven’t started your Christmas promotions yet? Well, you can be sure that a large number of customers haven’t given Christmas shopping a second thought either. Use this to your advantage! Make life easier for this audience by providing solutions to common Christmas shopping troubles (‘Christmas gifts for your mum/ nephew sorted!’), and use promotions like free express delivery to help lighten the load for your customers.

2. THINK GLOBAL. Did you know that over 38 million people are connected to a business in New Zealand on Facebook? While this is only one platform where you can target your customers, it shows us that there’s no need to limit your promotions to a local audience.

3. IT’S ALL ABOUT YOU! New competition is always on the horizon but focus on what’s unique and exciting about your brand and promote it accordingly. Be smart about who you’re targeting - there is a wealth of data available online to help you. Constantly test and evolve your approach, for example running A/B tests of static ads vs. a more immersive video format, to make sure that your promotions are effective.

4. USE YOUR BUDGET WISELY. One of the most cost-effective ways to advertise during the peak holiday season is focusing on people who are already familiar with your brand to drive them to purchase in store, online or in your mobile app. Use your existing subscriber lists and social media platforms to connect with these audiences.

5. GET EVEN MORE CREATIVE! There are many creative tools available for businesses to take a simple product and make it pop at this time of year.

With creative apps like Instagram’s Hyperlapse and Boomerang, great natural light, a simple tripod, and backdrops that contextualise your product, you can turn any space into your creative studio.

6. IT’S OBVIOUS… BUT GET ON MOBILE. Last year for the first time more products were sold on Facebook on mobile than desktop. We’re entering a new era of mobile-first shoppers, whether it’s researching and deciding on a product to buy in-store, or buying directly from mobile.

7. DON’T FORGET ABOUT YOUR IN-STORE CUSTOMERS. We know that purchases in-store have been influenced by mobile advertising. On Facebook, use the ad formats (Store Visits) that have been created specifically for these potential customers to advertise the store nearest to their physical locations and send them into your store.

8. WHY NOT TELL YOUR STORY WITH VIDEO? Video is becoming a key marketing tool for retailers. Based on our research, most people scroll through their Facebook or Instagram feeds on-the-go and as a result, videos are often viewed without sound. Try to incorporate captions, logos and products, so your message comes across clearly without sound. Tools like Hyperlapse, Rewind and Boomerang can also help you to create impressive videos.

9. STUCK FOR STORIES? Leverage your customers! If you have existing brand advocates there is no better time than the holiday period to tell their stories. Has someone had a great experience with your brand or used your product in a creative way? Share their stories and invite your broader community to do the same.

10. IT’S NOT ALL OVER AFTER 25TH DECEMBER! After Christmas is an excellent time to deepen your relationship with the customers you worked so hard to acquire during the holiday season and convert them to repeat buyers with the right demand generation and cross-sell programs.

Are you thinking about sales or trying to move excess stock in January? Then you can retarget customers who bought before Christmas or throughout the year with an offer, promotion or sale.

SALES AGENT North Island NZ - Commission Based

The New Zealand Sock Company is a well-established, long running family business, manufacturing, importing and exporting socks both in the domestic and international market place – a world leader in the sock industry. We pride ourselves on our research and development and highly innovative, technically advanced socks. We also manufacture a vast collection of womens’ dress, outdoor, sports, and fashion ranges. We are looking for a passionate sales agent who has an established range of products to add socks to their portfolio, focusing on our fashion styles and growing market opportunities covering the North Island.

To be successful for this role you will need to have: • Proven ability to build and maintain long term relationships.

• The passion, commitment and energy to achieve growth and develop business.

• Excellent interpersonal and communication skills.

• Think outside the box with strategies to gain additional brand awareness.

We can offer you: • Exciting fresh vibrant new ranges which will enhance your current brands being represented.

• Existing customer base.

• Supportive fast-moving head office support from a friendly professional team.

• Competitive commission rates.

To note your interest please contact Euan Sparrow, Managing Director at euan@nzsock.co.nz or on 021 320 404.

20 I November 2017

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INGRID STARNES Charlotte Night Dress CAMILLA AND MARC Delia Skirt

22 I November 2017

PHOTOGRAPHER: Caitlan Mitchell BEAUTY: Chanelle Van T Veen MODEL: Wednesday at 62 Models Shot at Kingsize Studios

RACHEL MILLS George Turtleneck in Tangerine Rib JARRAD GODMAN Devoted Pants

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24 I

November 2017

HARMAN GRUBISA Wrap Shirt HOMAGE BY KAYLA JURLINA Earrings and Necklace

Wednesday Ladyman-Miller 62 MODELS

Scouted via her Instagram by Angela Bevan, Wednesday Ladyman-Miller was signed to 62 Models at just 14, although she didn’t start working until she was 15. Growing up, she was surrounded by creative energy as both her parents were musicians, though are now self-employed in separate fields; her father a passionate singer/songwriter, and her mother a talented woodworker. “My mum is also quite into following the fashion industry as my sister, Brandi, and I are both models,” she added. “I’m not sure I had any idols growing up, if anyone probably my parents who always worked hard to provide for us.” Ladyman-Miller is now inspired by women who are unapologetically themselves. “Women like Adwoa Aboah, and Hari Nef who inspire and fight for those that don’t have a voice.”

Previously featured in Apparel and Remix magazine, Ladyman-Miller is yet to jump overseas for modelling as she is pursuing her education first. However, you can find her on the local scene including the latest music video for New Zealand band Leisure and in online editorials like Oyster. “I really don’t measure the modelling jobs I get against each other as I think every job I work is a great achievement in itself, but if this were asking what modelling job I’m most proud of it would probably be a recent shoot I did with an incredible talented team out at Bethels beach for @c__l__o studios.”

After completing her Bachelor of Fine Arts at Elam, Ladyman-Miller hopes to pursue a career in the creative industry as a creative director or similar. “Whether this is in the fashion or film industry, I’m not sure,” she explained. Ladyman-Miller never strived to become a model and didn’t think that being teased for having skinny legs and pointy ears would have a positive outcome. She continued modelling because of the opportunities she collects and making connections with people who she wouldn’t usually get the chance to. She advises new faces to not get caught up in the standards of what you think may be expected of you. “You’re beautiful just the way you are.”

Now 19-years-old, Ladyman-Miller added that the New Zealand fashion industry or at least the people she has worked with have been very accommodating and inspiring. “This could be down to my great agents at 62 Models just being the best at their jobs though,” she said. “Challenges in the broader job of modelling would probably be with social media, it’s very easy to make a habit of comparing yourself to what you see online, breaking that habit is definitely my biggest challenge.”

With no dream job in mind, Ladyman-Miller would love any job that allows her to have a say and express herself outside of her appearance. For now, her education comes first. “Maybe after I’m done, I’ll pursue some different opportunities in the modelling industry.”

RACHEL MILLS Scarlett Crop in Red Taffeta RACHEL MILLS Fran Pants in Black Denim

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VANESSA ROSE GALLELLI From the young age of 13, Vanessa Rose Gallelli began preparing herself for life as a designer. She took sewing, illustration and pattern drafting classes and focussed on immersing herself in all the skills needed to make her dreams a reality.

Similar to many aspiring designers, Gallelli initially struggled to master complicated techniques, but with hard work and patience she got a handle on everything and fell in love with the craft. Gallelli’s commitment to becoming a designer was so strong that she enrolled at the Haute Couture Academy of Fashion Arts and Design, which she attended alongside high school in order to properly prepare herself for studying fashion design at Ryerson University in Toronto.

The official start of Gallelli’s eponymous brand was in April of 2014. Before that, Gallelli had made custom clothing for family members, alongside countless outfits for herself, but 2014 marked the first time she created outfits for people outside

PRISZL

26 I November 2017

her family - beginning with a prom dress request which came from an Instagram direct message.

Gallelli continued making custom clothing and individual pieces until 2017, when she showed her first complete collection, Mass Exodus, at Vancouver Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2017. However, custom apparel remains Gallelli’s primary focus, with orders flooding in from friends, friends of friends and even complete strangers on Instagram. These requests are mainly for eveningwear - a challenge for which Gallelli was prepared by her university internships with tailoring and bridal designers.

“Hand sewing is key,” explained Galllelli, “I also include appliques, feathers and beads to add that little extra sparkle.”

Instagram has had a significant effect on Gallelli’s business - it is how the organisers at Vancouver Fashion Week found her brand. Speaking of which, Vancouver Fashion Week was a major turning point for Gallelli. Not only did it prompt her to create her

first full collection, but it also provided an excellent networking platform with a high level of media access. “I noticed through this whole experience how important it is to use social media to get your name out there. I constantly post everything I do, whether it be collections, custom clothing I’ve made,” said Gallelli. Showing at Vancouver Fashion Week also boosted the level of custom orders Gallelli was receiving - increasing the juggling act Gallelli now faces between growing custom clientele and releasing a new collection every season. “My Mass Exodus show was a very surreal experience. I was so overjoyed I cried, I was so grateful that all the hard work that I put into my collection was paying off,” Gallelli explained. Her end goal is to own her own boutique stores in Toronto and New York, from which she can still create custom orders alongside main collections, which she would like to show at New York Fashion Week.

KATHERINE TESSIER Katherine Tessier has been a fashion girl since she was growing up in Saint-Casimir, Québec. Her mother’s closet was always stocked with the latest designer pieces, and Tessier drew inspiration from these beautiful garments. Encountering bullying in her local school, Tessier began focussing on fashion as a creative outlet and a source of individuality and strength. After high school, Tessier was unsure about choosing a career path, but due to familial pressure to attend university, she chose fashion design, as it seemed the most interesting.

Tessier began studying fashion design in Québec but did not graduate as she struggled to express her individuality within the creative confines of the college’s curriculum. Tessier moved on, trying to find the right place to hone her talent, and decided that studying online with Parsons for a year-long certificate course was the best way to learn.

In 2014, Tessier began her brand, Katherine Tessier Clothing. The frustration of design teachers who did not accept her aesthetic prompted Tessier to get the ball rolling and start her own company. Business inspiration came from her father, an entrepreneur and business owner, and her aunt, who is also a fashion designer. “I always saw my father working hard for his dreams, and I wanted to do the same as him,” explained

Tessier. “I asked him for tips before getting started, he helped me a lot at the beginning and still does.”

The evolution of her business model has also been a key focus for Tessier, who sells internationally via her website but currently has no physical stockists. A high price point has also been key in retaining the exclusivity of the brand, as well as the Tessier’s goal of finding one single retailer who carries her products, instead of multiple global retailers.

Sustainability is also a passion which has had a significant influence on Tessier, who hates fast fashion. Working with a production team in Québec has allowed Tessier to create local jobs as well as ensuring her garments are ethically produced.

Vancouver Fashion Week was key in boosting Tessier’s visibility. “I tried other fashion events but the Vancouver Fashion Week is the best event I participated in,” said Tessier. “For my first season, everything went perfectly!”

Since then, Tessier has been featured on Vogue UK and has received nation-wide recognition for her designs.

READY TO HIT THE RUNWAY?

Showcase your FW18 Collection at Vancouver Fashion Week in March 2018 Whether it’s a solo or group show, we have special rates for New Zealand designers!

Email caitlan@reviewmags.com or phone 09 304 0142 for more information

MARCH 19 - 25, 2018 apparelmagazine.co.nz

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I Can’t ‘ear You! Lobes are now a prime accessory location, and ear-candy is the hottest jewellery trend on the market. Arguably, statement earrings are not a trend as such, but more of a new approach to the art of accessorising. Across a variety of brands, from high fashion to high street, and everything in between, statement earrings have been flying off retailers’ shelves and leaving other jewellery styles in the dust.

The initial iteration was the now ubiquitous tassel earring, which was a must-have item for 2016, and can still be seen as a trend with long staying power.

However, the trend evolved from this fairly uniform beginning and the statement earring trend expanded into a wide array of creative variations, with an option for every consumer. Traditionally, runway jewellery trends tend not to hit high street - especially the bolder ones which are typically confined to their high fashion home. However, this trend is the exception, and the trickle-down effect has run its course fairly swiftly - statement earrings have caught on within the categories of costume jewellery, fine jewellery and fashion jewellery, as consumers at all price points want a bit of the action.

Speaking of consumers, the appeal of statement earrings is multi-faceted. Firstly, earrings are often one of the cheapest items in a store, making them a perfect entry point purchase, especially from a higher priced brand. As seen with branded designer socks, offering an on-brand accessory at a lower price point than RTW is an excellent strategy for catering to the segment who would like to purchase designer clothing but can’t quite afford it.

Earrings are the same - they retain the transformative, expressive power of fashion without requiring the large investment. For lower priced brands, the price point is also an attractive feature - instead of buying a shirt for every day of the week, purchasing a week’s worth of statement earrings is

28 I November 2017

decidedly cheaper, but still as exciting for the consumer to wear. The variation in statement earrings means there is now an option for every different style, so consumers can often attain the individuality they’re looking for.

A further reason for the popularity of statement earrings is, arguably, the rise of selfie culture - as an eye-catching earring allows wearers to show off a sartorial element which may otherwise be hard to display in our era of front-facing camera fondness.

In terms of sales, earrings typically have an incredibly low return rate and do not require resizing - a fact which has no doubt helped their explosion in popularity as an online purchase and is a boon for any retailer who chooses to sell them.

Usually, within a larger trend, there are a few smaller trends which cater to a variety of consumers and are all popular in their own right. However, for statement earrings, this is not the case. In terms of lobes, anything goes! This sentiment is evidenced by the outbreak of small designers who hand make their earrings, retail exclusively on their own websites (often a Big Cartel site) and have a hefty Instagram following of niche consumers. These earring designers have significantly less capital needed than fashion start ups, which has enabled more of them to appear. Additionally, most utilise a made-to-order model, allowing them to avoid upfront costs.

These earrings come in all shapes and sizes, some fine and dainty, and some chunky and earthen. Colourful, lucite or metal - it’s a fashion free for all! Hoops are currently selling strongly - not simple in a circular shape but also in heart styles, triangles, and more abstract shapes. Sculptural designs are also popular, as well as natural textures. Catholicism and other religious paraphernalia are also having a moment (for secular sartorial reasons) and can be expected to keep selling strongly for at

least another year with a possible spike around the 2018 Met Gala. Earring designers have endless possibilities and will find that creating something unique and unusual (combined with excellent social media marketing) will probably sell well.

These endless possibilities for retailers may mean that choosing the right statement earrings to stock can be overwhelming. Obviously knowing your customer is key, in particular their proclivity for sartorial adventure and individuality. If your customers prefer something, a little different smaller orders of styles would be best, so the exclusivity and limited nature will be appealing to your customer group. Stores with a lower average price point and more SKUs can invest in a wider variety of styles and offer consumers more options.

Reductions are few and far between in this category.

Due to the lack of strong microtrends, seasonality has largely fallen by the wayside in favour of a unique look. This lack of reductions is great news for designers and retailers who do not need to worry about losing profit through discounting. Ensuring tidy in-store merchandising is critical, and placement by a cash register will encourage a statement earring purchase as a high-value add-on. While many bricks and mortar retailers who expand online typically upload higher priced items as their priority, ensuring some statement earring styles are uploaded is vital! Earrings are an easy online purchase because of the lack of size issue, and the fact that they are lower priced. Online, earrings are an excellent add-on or stand-alone purchase. Due to the Instagram-friendly nature of the trend, social media marketing has a major payoff in this category.

Sponsor an Instagram post of some statement earrings, add a link in your bio to a mobilefriendly site and you’ll be away laughing.

Long Live Prints: Analyzing Patterned Apparel A third of men’s and women’s apparel, and nearly 60% of kidswear, is patterned. It’s a big business that needs its own kind of analysis.

Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITED

That’s why we’ve made an update to our software that incorporates some seriously snazzy pattern tools.

To do that we took an entirely new approach, fusing two types of AI, which you can read more about here, if that’s your jam.

But let’s get straight to the good stuff – the insights you can get in a few swift clicks!

WHAT’S IN STOCK? Well, this.

Print has limitations on this front: whether due to the long lead times around manufacture, or being tied to selecting from what’s already available on the market if you’re outsourcing.

Print does sell fast, but…

Across the board, in key mass and luxury categories, plain garments take longer to sell out. But they also stay full price for longer than printed garments.

For example, in luxury, printed dresses sell out on average 8 days faster than non-printed dresses but tend to be discounted one day earlier. That shows that merchandisers give printed products a shorter lifecycle.

There’s one exception right now. Printed outerwear on the mass market. It’s selling out faster than plain outerwear and is discounted after the same number of days on the market on average (57 days).

HOW QUICKLY DO PATTERN TRENDS CHANGE?

We can immediately see that in womenswear, florals are the leader of the pattern pack. It’s interesting to note how few camouflage items there are online given how widely they’ve been referenced in editorial.

The mix hasn’t changed much from this time last year, with the 16% emphasis on stripes staying put and the current 15% of graphic prints having grown by one percent. The emphasis on animal print has shrunk by one per cent and checks have grown by the same amount.

The biggest growth in any print category is florals, with last year’s 21% weighting on floral up to 25% this year. Winter florals are currently leading retailer content.

It’s interesting to uncover how little print trends shift.

Right now it feels like there’s a real push for slogan and graphic tees.

But when you look at market data, you see the emphasis on graphic prints has only shifted 1% in women’s luxury since 2013, and remained the same – representing 5% of the printed market – in women’s mass.

Another key print is the Fall 2017 trend for wide or oversized checks that emerged on the runway back in February:

Mary Katrantzou Fall 2017

Missoni Fall 2017

Paco Rabanna Fall 2017

When we look at how runway print trends are reflected in retail the following season, we can see the impact isn’t dramatic.

DOES PATTERNED APPAREL SELL FASTER ONLINE THAT THE PLAIN STUFF? There’s a theory that bright, punchy stuff sells better online because it stands out more. But if that were the case, the same would apply in store too and we’d all be dressed in layer upon layer of prints.

In reality, consumers’ relationship with products is a great deal more complex, and the speed at which stuff sells out is reliant on how much of it there was to buy in the first place.

Data can help that, giving accurate insights for that risky long range planning–understanding how prints have performed in the past to gauge timing and

quantities, tracking the uptake on developing print trends–as well as helping buyers work close to season by identifying what’s connecting with consumers in their market.

THE WAY PATTERN TRENDS ARE MERCHANDIZED Content keeps retail feeling full of new print trends.

It’s interesting to look at the types of prints that retailers are buying into, versus the ones they’re talking about in their email newsletters. While florals arrived into stores in highest numbers for fall, it’s check prints that retailers are talking about most.

Having a bit of freedom with storytelling and styling is great. This only becomes a problem when content shapes demand that outstrips supply. Carefully watching this balance is key.

THE BEST-SELLING PRINT BRANDS Brands have a great print strategy, which ensures longevity beyond a seasonal story. Some brands in particular are known for their emphasis on prints.

Gucci is leading right now – it has the highest number of full price sell outs for its printed wares, which make up 50% of its assortment. Missoni, in second has 72% of its assortment printed and MSGM has 53%. These are well above the luxury industry average of 33%.

What’s interesting here is that each brand has a very different approach to its print mix, in the same season.

These brands aren’t connecting with shoppers because they bought into the biggest print trends of the season – it’s because they have a print DNA unique to their brand.

WRITE YOUR OWN PATTERN DNA These brands also have three primary print focuses, where the majority of their patterned assortment lies.

What’s your print DNA and top three pattern categories?

To define that, you’ll need to assess what’s happening in print in your market, category and price point. Is this season working brilliantly on outerwear, while bottoms tank? Is stripe the only print your competitor stocks at its entry price point?

Next, find out from historic data how your customers respond to print. That will help you plan an over-arching strategy and also outline opportunities for trend, giving you a greater flexibility to buy prints close-to-season.

Patterned apparel is a different ballgame, but you can de-risk it with data. Especially when using software made just for that job!

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ANNOUNCING OUR NEW VIET TUNNEL FINISHER. IMMACULATE GARMENTS AT SPEED. At C&F Garment Management, we believe our world class garment industry deserves world class service.

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