Apparel Magazine | November 2018

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fashionable reads

World of Style

By Aimee Song

Fashion icon and sartorial star, Aimee Song is the blogger behind Song of Style and author of Capture Your Style. In World of Style, she presents a stunning collection of over five hundred of her favourite looks from across the globe. Relive her personal memories from the world’s hottest destinations from Anguilla, Croatia and the Hamptons to Los Cabos, Milan and Tulum and discover her favourite fashion travel spots.

Chanel: The Karl Lagerfeld Campaigns

By Patrick Mauriès

Chanel: The Karl Lagerfeld Campaigns tells the story behind the journey Karl Lagerfeld set out on to reinvent the image of 1983’s then-sleepy fashion house, Chanel. Lagerfeld shot the house’s campaigns himself, from luxurious haute couture to ready-to-wear, cruise and accessories and established himself as a highly sought-after fashion photographer.

This book showcases hundreds of photographs of spectacular designs worn by top fashion models and personalities including Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista and Kate Moss.

Kimono Refashioned: Japan's Impact on International Fashion

By Yuki Morishima, Rie Nii and Cynthia Amneus From the East to the West, kimonos and kimonoinspired designs are showcased everywhere. From Yohji Yamamoto, Gucci and other high-end couturiers to street fashion brands including Uniqlo and H&M, Kimono Refashioned details the impact this garment has had on the fashion world.

Individuals from the Asian Art Museum of San Francisco, the Newark Museum and more collaborate with curators from the Kyoto Costume Institute to reflect on the motifs used to decorate, form and silhouette kimonos. A captivating book set to inspire all fashionistas and Asian art aficionados.

Dior by Roger Vivier

By Gerard Uferas

Celebrating Christian Dior and Roger Vivier’s collaboration, Dior by Roger Vivier spotlights stunning vintage shoes. From the 1950s when Dior first met famous footwear designer, Vivier to the 1960s when their glamourous vintage shoe designs flew off the pages and into reality. Explore beautiful photographs of sculptural kitten heels, jewel-encrusted slippers and many more designs embellished with a range of luxurious fabrics.

editor ’ s note

DO YOU MEAN WHAT YOU SAID OR ARE YOU JUST DUMB?

A local newspaper recently titled an editorial showcasing earthy-toned products ‘Natural Selection’.

Yep, that happened, but wait there’s more – a week later I got an email with the subject NATURAL SELECTION. I open the email to find a mainstream global brand has just dubbed their most recent collection ‘Natural Selection’. What is going on?

Do people not have brains anymore?

While I might not be the most PC person in the world, I’m not immediately offended by it – more surprised.

What idiot approved this? After a short google, it doesn’t end there.

There is a clothing brand in London called Natural Selection.

WHAT. Two days later I see in the newspaper an editorial titled Natural Selection.

When will it end?!

Naughty brands! Bad! Do not pass GO, do not collect $200. Pick up a book, educate yourself.

I would recommend Charles Darwin’s “On the Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection, or the Preservation of Favoured Races in the Struggle for Life”. But then again, maybe this is the logic you would take from it: A herd of buffalo can move only as fast as the slowest buffalo. When the herd is hunted, it is the slowest and weakest ones at the back that are killed first. This natural selection is good for the herd as a whole, because the general speed and health of the whole group keeps improving with the regular killing of the weakest members. It's much like how the human brain can only operate as fast as the slowest brain cells. Excessive intake of alcohol, we all know, kills brain cells, but naturally it attacks the slowest and weakest brain cells first.

Meaning, regular consumption of alcohol eliminates the weaker brain cells, making the brain a faster and more efficient machine. This is why you always feel

smarter after a few wines, and that’s why wine is so GOOD for you!

No seriously, Susan, put the wine down when you make decisions like these. Believe it or not words have meaning, and when you choose a phrase that has negative connotations to it already – why go there? So, to help out, I’ve made a list of suitable titles for you to get inspiration from; Natural Certainty, Natural Bond, Natural Instinct, Natural Beauty, Natural Precision, or even Natural Progression would’ve been better.

There was a married couple who were in a terrible accident.

The woman's face was burned severely. The doctor told the husband they couldn't graft any skin from her body because she was so skinny.

The husband then donated some of his skin... however, the only place suitable was from his buttocks. The husband requested that no one be told of this, because after all, this was a very delicate matter!

After the surgery was finished, everyone was astounded at the woman's new beauty. She looked more beautiful than before! All her friends and relatives ranted and raved at her youthful beauty! She was alone with her husband one day and she wanted to thank him for what he did.

"Dear, I just want to thank you for everything you did for me," she said. "There is no way I could ever repay you!"

He replied, "Oh don't worry, I get plenty thanks enough every time your mother comes over and kisses you on your cheek!"

CHAIRMAN

Peter Mitchell GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM Raymund Sarmiento PUBLISHER Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Ciaran Carroll ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287 EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand 9 304 0142 CONTENT MANAGERS Georgia Saywell - nzapparel@reviewmags.com +64 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all

Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL TEAM Alan Higgs

Cass Fellows

enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2018 NZ Apparel Magazine.

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fast five

RECYCLED IS THE NEW BLACK

CROCS SOAR WITH SURPRISING PROFITS For footwear giant Crocs, their clog revenue makes up about half of the company’s total revenue and is by far their most popular product line around the world.

Over the last twelve months, revenue from their clogs has increased by 12.7 percent, which resulted in the retailer’s shares rising by an impressive 27 percent.

The growth was unprecedented, exceeding the expectations of company executives and Wall Street analysts alike. Clogs' popularity increased across all regions, but there was a particularly significant increase in the North American results. Overall, Crocs posted earnings per share of 7 cents, which is a shocking improvement on the 2 cents per share loss which was predicted by analysts polled by Refinitiv.

The brand is jumping on this new popularity by releasing new seasonal editions of their classic footwear. This includes varieties of prints, embellishments and styles, their platform clog is being heavily marketed, and their Jibbitz Charm Collection is expected to be enlarged to meet the new demands.

The brand’s profile was significantly raised by a partnership with famous rapper Post Malone, who has long supported the brand and approached them for a collaboration. The connection should see the brand continue in their forward momentum and rise in the footwear market. Both internal executives and external analysts are confident that the collaboration will spell another successful quarter for the company.

LEADING THE INDUSTRY AGAINST GENDER-BASED VIOLENCE

A commitment charter against gender-based violence is to be signed by seven chief executive officers in the fashion industry. The charter entitled One in Three Women refers to the ratio of women who are victims of physical or sexual violence in their lifetime, a catastrophic number. The chief executive officers who have come together in a sign of solidarity for women within and outside of the fashion industry include L’Oreal’s Jean-Paul Agon and Kering’s Francois-Henri Pinault.

The new charter places support and prevention of gender-based violence at the top of the list, with support for victims being developed, such as training tools and potentially lifesaving numbers and

SEEING DOUBLE Fashion company Pretty Little Thing has been globally praised for featuring two models of different sizes modelling the same garment, side by side, on their online fashion site. The brand is being commended for embracing a variety of different body types and presenting the beauty of diversity. Consumers have taken to social media to praise the brand: “That is what every clothing website needs, nothing more annoying than seeing something on only a plus size model or only on another model who’s petite,” tweeted a happy customer.

With calls for consumers to make the fashion industry more inclusive of other body types and portray a more

4 I November 2018

events being collated and organised to provide a diverse and dedicated network of support. The members of the charter will contribute by raising awareness among both employees and collaborators and fostering a safe and supportive work environment where victims can feel safe and heard.

The fashion industry hosts an array of successful and influential women, and is demonstrating their commitment to creating a safe and supportive sector for those who are a part of it. With these large corporations backing the movement, they are providing incentives as well as setting an example for smaller companies to follow in their footsteps and help carve the way to a world-class industry that anyone would be proud to be a part of.

realistic idea of beauty for young women, it seems their cries are being heard.

Brands are being celebrated for diverse representation, such as Rihanna’s beauty brand Fenty, which was praised for including an incredibly diverse modelling cast, including a heavily pregnant woman at one of her presentations. Whereas brands who are not with the times are being left in the dust, such as Victoria’s Secret whose most recent fashion show left audiences disappointed and even enraged following its limited cast of petite, white, cis-women rather than embracing the beauty of diversity.

Pretty Little Thing seems to be listening to the concerns of their customers, and its efforts to include a more diverse range of models has resulted in a public show of approval, of which the brand is sure to reap the rewards.

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Leading the way in sustainable textiles, the Eclipse Textiles VITA ECONYL® NYLON LYCRA® range by CARVICO participates in the ‘Healthy Seas, a Journey from Waste to Wear’ initiative. The Regenerated ECONYL® NYLON used is coming from pre and post-consumer waste, such as fishing nets recovered by the Healthy Seas Initiative, implementing a sustainable production policy that is no longer a choice but a must in today’s world.

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FIND OUT MORE ON OUR BLOG AUSTRALIAN HEAD OFFICE +61 7 3251 2970 AUCKLAND DISPLAY LOCATION 0508 88 44 11

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t n i Fall/ W

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MARCH 18TH - 24TH

VANCOUVER FASHION WEEK www.vanfashionweek.com

FINANCE TURNED FASHION ENTREPRENEUR With winter quickly approaching for the northern hemisphere, fashion entrepreneur Crystal Hill has invented a new way for fashion fanatics to fight off the chills. A stylish new heated jacket has entered the market, providing a toasty alternative to heavy layers and shapeless coats. The first collection of five jackets came the market in October, with the rest of the collection to be added to the Nu-Da range in 2019.

The jackets feature veganfriendly suede, faux wool and denim to appeal to the environmentally conscious consumer while utilising highquality heat technology.

The linings of the jacket contain carbon fibre heating elements which are flexible, undetectable and rechargeable.

In addition, the jackets battery also doubles as a phone charger, further demonstrating the innovation of this finance turned fashion entrepreneur.

The jackets are versatile while intertwining fashion and technology.

CGI MODELS PRESENT AN EERIE COLLECTION CGI models have been experimented with by a selection of fashion trendsetters, but the trend is yet to take off. Previously the technological presentations displayed realistic and traditional depictions of the human body. But now the luxury Spanish fashion house Balenciaga has teamed up with digital artist Yilmaz Sen to create a social media promotion which contorts and disfigures their CGI models to create an unnerving but mesmerising presentation.

The clip was distributed via Instagram without a caption and features items from Balenciaga’s Spring/Summer 2019 collection.

The CGI models stood in nondescript locations around the Copenhagen meatpacking district and stared into the camera as they began to distort. The model’s bodies stretch and bend in a manner which would be impossible for a real person. Their

torsos shrunk, legs turned at a 90-degree angles and necks bent and twisted around their bodies to make irregular shapes.

The promotion has received mixed reviews, with many finding the presentation disturbing or horror-esque, while others found it a fascinating example of technological innovation.

Despite a varied reception, the video presents an intriguing new direction for the fashion industry, where technology can be utilised beyond the realm of physical possibilities. The use of CGI models is a controversial subject within the industry, but more dramatic presentations such as this collaboration may see them become more of a staple for brands which are looking to step outside of the box.

foot notes

CLASSIC ELEGANCE R.M Williams renowned style and craftsmanship takes shape in its limited edition footwear releases. A Silver Millicent boot for women and a Hi-Shine Comfort Craftsman boot for men have been released as an online exclusive.

The Silver Millicent is created with exclusive metallic leather and features a stacked Cuban inspired heel to add height and maturity to the young consumer’s style. While the Comfort Craftsman is manufactured in bovine leather and feature a classic chisel square and flat toe, creating a timeless, sophisticated look.

Both boots are manufactured in their worldclass workshop in Adelaide and reflect the brand’s classic elegance.

IS THE FUTURE PHYSICAL? Online shopping seems to be the future of retail, and companies who have an online only retail model, are likely to see more economic success in the coming years.

According to GlobalData spend via online-only, pureplay, retailers are expected to increase by 67.4 per cent over the next five years. Despite their current domination of the markets, retailers operating both physical and digital sales are

6 I November 2018

TIMBERLAND CELEBRATES ANNIVERSARY Timberland are releasing an exciting collection to celebrate 45 years of their iconic six-inch boot. The collection features their classic boot, bedazzled with sapphire highlights – a symbol of a 45th anniversary and provide a unique style for any Timberland fan.

Timberland have become the staple footwear of hip-hop legends, such as Kanye West and Notorious B.I.G. The new celebratory collection is sure to make a fine addition for diehard collectors, and encompass the same effortless chicness as their previous editions.

expected the online-only sectors for clothing and footwear brands.

Sofie Willmott of Global data expressed that “In order for multichain retailers to attract online shoppers, they must ensure the experience they offer matches up to those of online pure-plays.”

These features include fast, low cost and a variety of fulfilment options for consumers. Having your hand in too many baskets, so to speak, may be to the detriment of these multichannel companies, as online pure-plays are preparing, and well on their way, to taking over the market.

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trade talks

Global Fashion Conference 2018

The Global Fashion Conference is held bi-annually, bringing together an international cast from fashion and design academia and the fashion industry itself to explore the ‘dynamics, challenges and propositions’ of fashion and sustainability. This year the conference was held over two days, 31 October – 1 November at the University of the Arts London in their campus just a few steps from Oxford Circus, the epicentre of London’s high street fashion retail.

The two-day event titled “What’s Going On” attracted speakers and contributors from around the globe.

Dilys Williams, professor of fashion design for sustainability at the University of Arts, set the tone of the conference with her welcoming speech calling for a fashion system that honours nature and the rights of all human beings. British MP and Shadow Secretary of State for Environment, Mary Creagh, then opened the conference as Chair of the UK Environmental Audit committee currently investigating the fashion industry.

Kate Fletcher’s thought-provoking presentation took us from the catwalk out to the countryside, speaking of our disassociation from our environment, where our human-centric society views nature as property, with humanity having a sense of entitlement and superiority over it. Our anthropocentric culture seeing nature as a resource of interchangeable units but has no sense of limits.

Otto Von Busch, from Parson’s New School of Design New York, gave an energetic presentation on the psychopolitics of fashion: is fashion social combat – driven by a desire for recognition or fear of rejection? His witty dialogue ‘we are born free but held up by fashion chain stores’ eliciting chuckles from the audience which ebbed into an uncomfortable acknowledgement. He was not the only one to challenge the audience, fashion designer Katharine Hamnett CBE boldly stated: “Sustainability Certification is a conspiracy to do nothing.” Rallying the audience further, she declared: “We need radical change now! We need new laws to control the clothing industry, and it’s not controlling itself.

Humanity will be lost if not.”

The head of sustainable sourcing at luxury conglomerate Kering, Australian conservation biologist Dr Helen Crowley, suggested “nature doesn’t scale well, but it replicates beautifully – that is how we achieve scale when you have things that work, just replicate that work. Replication of a lot of things will accelerate our journey to a sustainable future.”

Mornings were individual presentations and panel sessions by the who’s who of fashion. “There is not going to be business unless we reconcile with the environment,” said Osola De Castro, founder

8 I November 2018

of Fashion Revolution, about the tragic deaths of thousands of workers in Bangladesh in 2013. “Sustainability is not a trend, the excess is.” He continued to call for mandatory transparency, no more opaque supply chains or selective reporting that cherry picks data.

The narrative at this conference focused on the InterGovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) report warned there are only a dozen years for global warming to be kept to a maximum of 1.5C and as a major producer of carbon, potentially quarter of the carbon budget, what ramifications this has for the industry. The other hot topic being the morality of excess perpetrated by the industry, particularly excess production and this issue of the end-of-life of clothes. High profile cases such as Burberry and H&M burning tens of millions of dollars of slow stock turning the issue to a moral debate over resource use. Lynda Grose Chair of the Fashion Programme at California College of the Arts highlighting the words of Vetements CEO Guram Gvasalia: “We have gone from conspicuous consumption to conspicuous production.”

The afternoons broke out into parallel presentations of the ninety fashion research papers accepted by the conference,

By Bernadette Casey

CREATIVE DIRECTOR, THE FORMARY investigations into a vast array of topics from new materials research, fungi and bio clothes, whether infusing spirituality into design practices could improve the sustainability of the industry, to the latest in end of life technologies, such as H&M’s fibre to fibre technology plant in Hong Kong and my research into New Zealand’s post-consumer clothing, ‘The Textile Reuse Programme: Building macro circular systems for used clothing’, which documents the findings and evolution of the Textile Reuse Programme (www.textilereuse.com) evolved.

A range of participatory workshops was also offered in the afternoons such as “Invent your own fashion economy – sustainability in a postconsumer utopia” to “Companionship with nature” ecological philosophy encouraging fashion practitioners to reactivate engagement with the natural world to improve environmental and social outcomes.

The conference did not steer away from the issues facing the industry. Representatives from global brands such as Kering and Stella McCartney participated in the discussions; corporate sustainability positions seem to be held predominantly by women, while CEO’s of fashion brands predominantly male, their absence was noted.

I spoke with Helen Crowley at the Gala dinner, she did not believe that legislation alone would solve the issues, that real advancement towards a sustainable industry would not happen until investors saw the value in the proposition. With only 12 years up our fashionable sleeves, the task for the sustainability sector is to make the business case compelling.

I attended the conference thanks to the support of the British Council and Callaghan Innovation.

We need radical change now!

We need new laws to control the clothing industry, it’s not controlling itself. Humanity will be lost if not.

in detail

INGRID STARNES CEREMONY After the immense success of her Resort 2018 range, Ingrid Starnes has released her first stand-alone bridal collection, graciously titled Ceremony: Collection One. The collection has taken five years of refinement but is finally available via private consultation with their team.

The collection features delicate silhouettes which were developed through the one word of existing templates. “We have taken a selection of some of our most beautiful Ingrid Starnes pieces and adapted and evolved them into new shapes. There are some favourites with a new touch,” explained designer Ingrid Starnes. The re-designs feature elegantly tailored pattern work which can be customised to the size and shape of each client. “It is all to ensure an individual and beautifully finished garment which is perfectly made for the customer.”

The range employs a soft and romantic pallet, utilising the elegance of liquid silks, cotton silk broderie and draped chiffons to create a lavish fantasy any bride would fawn over. Luxurious lace and soft suiting provide the perfect finishing touches to the meticulously crafted collection, creating a range which blends timeless grace with inspiring new configurations. The perfect combination for the modern, fashion-forward bride.

Starnes private collection is great an example of kiwi excellence in fashion and is produced in its entirety here in New Zealand. “It is all made in-house by our wonderful Ingrid Starnes team who have amassed 25 years in the industry,” added Starnes. The collection pulls against fashion industry norms. Rather than existing as a standalone release, Starnes will continue the refinement process of her designs well after their

initial release. “It is not based around seasons, but more a selection of pieces that will grow and change over time.”

In addition to the stunning and personally tailored bridal gowns, Starnes offers a unique bridesmaid dress service. This service is the cherry on top for her customers and ensures that the whole party will exhibit the same degree of elegance, creating a stunning presentation at any ceremony.

While the collection is not currently available for wholesale, Starnes is open to considering new models of distribution in the future. For the time being the collection remains exclusive, the consultation process providing a custom experience for every customer.

For more information, email custom@ingridstarnes.com

nuts

bolts

For almost two years, Petra McDowell has been the marketing co-ordinator for Threebyone who looks after Neuw Denim, Rolla’s Jeans, and Abrand Jeans.

Born and raised in Taupo, her childhood was spent with endless summers on the lake and winters on the snow. Prior to working at Threebyone, McDowell spent three years at Good As Gold in Wellington.

Her interest in fashion first bloomed at just seven years old with her first sewing machine. She went on to teach herself how to make her own clothing and it grew from there. This lead her to study fashion at New Zealand Institute of Fashion Technology in Wellington. In her years watching the industry, she has seen sustainability create a huge shift. “Seeing more and more fashion labels updating to our everchanging environment by making genuine ethical upgrades is amazing.”

Since starting with Threebyone, the mother company home to Neuw Denim, Rolla’s Jeans, and Abrand Jeans, McDowell said they took her in with welcoming arms from day one. “They have faith in me and taught me the in’s and out’s of the denim and marketing world,” she said. “My favourite part of the job is representing some of the greatest, coolest and fastest growing global denim brands.”

Her day to day consists of organising billboards, bus skins, fly posters to running events in Service Stores. McDowell also dresses musicians and runs their social media platforms. “The other day, I actually had to order over 500 Spray Chrysanthemum flowers which were given out to customers to celebrate spring.”

While McDowell’s life dreams change like the weather, she believes it is important to have a reason to motivate yourself within many aspects of life. “My main goal is pursuing happiness, to live the best life I can and to be the best me I can be.” Moving deeper in the industry, McDowell said you never know where opportunities can arise. “As my boss Dave always says, ‘present yourself as the best you always, in every situation, as you never know who could be watching’.”

Her impact on the brand was natural, as she explained that anyone coming into a business with a fresh opinion and look is always beneficial.

“Threebyone and the three amazing denim brands I work for have given me opportunities I never thought I’d ever have,” she added. “I’ve always been so appreciative of this by putting 110 percent into everything I do.”

PETRA MCDOWELL MARKETING CO-ORDINATOR THREEBYONE

designer focus

SUSUKOSHI For Eve Khoe seasonal children’s wear was proving to be an insufficient and inconvenient model for kid’s fashion. “We struggled when my baby boy was born in winter, and baby brother was then born in a different season. We ended up having to buy a whole new wardrobe to compensate,” explained Khoe. From her struggles came inspiration, and Khoe began to design a collection of kids wear which was not tied down by seasons or trends. The collection was entitled ‘Basic Seasonless’ under her brand Susukoshi and combines fashion and functionality for the everyday mother.

The new collection proudly does not follow trends, fashions or seasonal changes. The items are instead designed to be repurposed and passed down, suiting any child in any situation. “All our products are not made specifically for one season, they can be layered up or down and could be passed on to their brothers and sister or nieces and nephews,” said Khoe. Susukoshi has created their own niche market, which rather than competing with other brands has a strong focus on originality. Utilizing natural hue tones and clean, simple line and patterns, the collection

10 I November 2018

pays homage to Japanese designs, creating a timeless and most importantly seasonless appeal.

Functionality is as much a priority as originality for Khoe, and she drew from her experience as a mother as she designed this collection. “We are all mothers.

We know that we want something that does not only look good but feels good,” Khoe articulated. From creating easy access for nappy changing to considering the movement of children at different ages, Khoe has focused on generating a collection which performs with excellence. “For toddlers wear we used a slightly different type of fabric, as we know how fast they can dull an outfit in a single wear. We focused on durability and comfort, and we want them to move as freely as they can.”

Seasonless items are a staple for the collection, Khoe believes in clothing that can be worn across seasons and occasions so that they can receive the most use. “Above all our collections are easy to mix match and kids can go from napping to playing, to shopping with just one outfit,” full stop. The collection currently stocks sizes for newborns up to children of five years of age but could consider growing their range in the future.

Khoe is based in Melbourne and spends her time designing with her baby boy by her side. But the brand is looking to expand into the international market, to bring seasonless children’s fashion into the homes over mothers around the world. For more information contact wholesale.susukoshi@gmail.com or visit www.susukoshi.com

apparelmagazine.co.nz

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WEWILL Resene Bubble N Squeak

tility fashion is about highlighting elements of practical clothing and taking it to the extreme. It’s the epitome of form versus function, as both are maximised and brought to the front of attention.

Historically, utility clothing was first produced to help the British military efforts and aid the economy during the second world war. Cloth, wool, and leather were all in short supply, as were clothes makers, as much of the skilled labour force had left to fight.

The government took control of cloth imports and manufacturing, encouraging manufacturers to reduce the range of garments and instead produce items

12 I November 2018

HARE Resene Twisted Sister

which had more utility value. The shoes made were chunky and solid, usually with wedges or low heels, and all close-toed. All other garments had to make full use of the cloth real estate, jamming in as many pockets, hoods and useful components as possible.

Now, utility has become a clean, functional style that plays on the practical aspects, such as belts, hoods, zips and pockets. Natural colour palettes like grey, black, navy, tan, and whites are all repeatedly used in the design style, especially in traditional utility clothing where any unnecessary colour was frowned upon.

At Wewill’s Spring Ready-to-Wear 2019 show at

SHOHEI Resene Aura

Tokyo Fashion Week, designer Hidetaka Fukuzono displayed a gender-blurring collection. In a beige look close to Resene Bubble N Squeak, the loose-fitting jacket with oversized box pockets gives off a safari or zookeeper vibe.

Inspired by the shapes of the desert, Gauchère’s collection designed by Marie Christine Statz’s, featured an earthy palette, the collection playfully used proportions and contrasting between technical materials and rough fabrics. Delivering exaggerated shoulders, pockets, and belts; this ensemble is similar to Resene Eighth Bokara Grey, and blurs the lines between traditional 1940s utility clothing and a

JENNY FAX Resene Bali Hai

modern monochrome look.

Focussing on unique and technical materials, Shohei’s collection featured parkas with all sorts of functions.

Showcasing menswear and womenswear, this jacket in a hue close to Resene Aura, highlights zip-off components and inverted pockets.

Designer Jenny Fax drew inspiration from themes of childhood and made her RTW Spring 2019 collection resemble a grown-up fairy tale. Elements of humour and youthfulness were matched with less innocent details like undone buttons and underwear worn on

GAUCHÈRE Resene Eighth Bokara Grey

the outside. The colossal pockets, shoulders, and lapels on their blue stonewashed denim blazer, like Resene Bali Hai, are so big that they go well and truly beyond the point of being functional.

Hare’s Tokyo RTW Spring 2019 collection was sporty and full of bright colours. The design team lit up the runway with vibrant sporty mesh dresses, bomber jackets and satin jumpsuits. One model wore an orange coat in a colour like Resene Twisted Sister, layered over a yellow hoodie. The outfit, and the rest of the collection, was festooned with drawstrings,

CHRISTIAN DADA BED J.W. FORD Resene Hive

and other details like fanny packs and oversized cargo pockets. This gave the collection a decidedly noughties-esque look.

At Christian Dada and Bed J.W. Ford’s Stage Joint Show at Tokyo Fashion Week. Filled with dramatic contrasting displays; this tight-fitting yellow shortsleeve raincoat in a hue resembling Resene Hive screamed high visibilty on top of the black jumper.

The collection played with all opposing spectrums, dark and light, fitted and loose, monochrome and radiantly colourful.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

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security

IS AI THE FUTURE OF CYBERSECURITY? With the silly season on the way, there is no better time to upgrade, establish or reorganise your IT security as cyberattacks grow more frequent and vicious. While some attacks are initially undetected, these are usually the worst and the hardest to clean up - costing you thousands of dollars to fix. Minimise future potential damage by getting in front of the problem.

Many businesses have an IT security role among management as threats and risks can be cross-sectoral.

While most companies face the same cyberattack patterns, security measures must be developed, implemented and executed. On top of this, they must also be constantly monitored, reviewed and improved. AI has quickly become one of the best solutions to this as it instantly can detect and defend against cyberattacks. In the near future, AI security will be significantly improved and play a major role in the security sector. Of course there are limits to what AI can achieve, and its algorithms have a narrow focus and work with a standardised set of rules. As AI is introduced into security, clever cyber criminals will be able to work around these algorithms with their viruses. Hence why an AI security role should be examined by a human in order to avoid unnecessary false alarms and be able to spot a wider range of problems beyond what an AI can protect.

At the moment, AI should only be used as a tool in your security strategy, not your only line of defence.

Being an employee or contractor who specialises in cybersecurity is more than just being good at computers. They need to be able to implement and

execute a resilient information security management system along with data protection as well as physical security measures. Effective prevention starts with a plan, look for someone with professional experience in the area of CISSP, CISM, CISA, anti-malware software, network administration, IT forensics, and is

fluent in scripting and programming languages. AI is an option to combat cybercrime, but today, successful security strategies are still reserved for human intelligence. In the future, cybersecurity will become a crucial element of your business, that cannot be ignored, but we aren’t there yet.

Call us now for a FREE one hour consultation.*

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Ph: 09 571 9959 www.latitudesolutions.co.nz

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CHECKING IT TWICE: Keeping your business off the naughty list.

With all the glitz, glamour and frenzy of the holiday season, it is important for any small retailer to keep the safety of their business and their employees at the forefront of their to-do list.

1. WHILE YOU’RE AWAY

5. ONLINE CRIMINALS

9. PLACEMENT OF STOCK

Shut down periods, whether they last a day or several weeks are key targets for criminal activity. By taking precautions to ensure the security of your business while no one is around, you could save yourself from a nasty surprise upon your return. Ensuring your external doors well lit or even leaving on some of the internal lights acts as a huge deterrent for potential intruders, as the cover of darkness can provide shelter from security cameras of passersby. In addition, informing your store’s neighbours of your businesses shut down period ensures that an extra pair of eyes are looking out for any suspicious activity in your absence.

An influx in holiday purchases is the perfect place for online fraud artists to hide. Be on the lookout for the tell-tale signs of fraudulent purchases such as the delivery address not matching the cardholders address, high value or volume purchases from new customers or foreign credit cards. Online sales will rise during the holiday period, so paying extra attention to your businesses online activity and inquiring about suspicious purchases is a good way to keep on top of any issues that may arise.

By being thoughtful about the placement of your displays around your store, you are creating a more difficult target for potential criminals, and deterring thieves from engaging. Keeping your most valuable items locked away you are ensuring minimal losses to your company in the event of theft and removing key targets from sight. Also, by having your checkouts near your exit, you are creating a dangerous path for any thief to walk, and further deterring them from action against your store.

6. MANAGE YOUR INVENTORY

10. CONDUCT OF WORKERS

2. BE PREPARED

With the hustle and bustle of Christmas shoppers, both internal and external theft can go undetected, particularly in retailers without a lot of security. By keeping a close track of your inventory, both your old stock and any festive additions, any unexplained variations of stock can be addressed promptly and resolved. This will also ensure that any internal theft is not continuous, as it will be swiftly noticed and dealt with.

With an influx of Christmas, shoppers comes a call for more workers, and Christmas-casual employees are popular for a range of retailers. They are only around for a short period, but these new employees could make or break your businesses Christmas period. Proper training and vetting of any new employee is an important process, and these standards for workers should not slip in this busy period. To prevent internal theft, mishandling of products and an excellent standard of customer service, your Christmas-casual workers should be given the same level of attention as permanent employees. Hiring your casual workers early, conducting thorough background checks and monitoring your new employees’ behaviours could be crucial to your business’s success during the holiday period.

Despite rigorous anti-theft measures and determents being implemented, theft still occurs, and it is important to have a strong plan in place when such occasions occur. A step-by-step procedure for dealing with in-store criminals is crucial to maintaining a safe work environment. By training and educating your employees on the way to deal with these events you can ensure that the damages to your business are less substantial, and the culprits can be dealt with quickly and effectively. During such a busy period, going over these procedures could be vital for your business.

3. HIRE HELP Two sets of eyes are better than one, the more employees or security guards you have in store, the less likely criminal behaviour is to slip through the cracks. With so many shoppers’ employees can be occupied with customer service or operating checkouts, and security checks become forgotten. By hiring more staff, or enlisting the help of a security company, you can ensure close surveillance of your store is being undertaken without compromising customer engagement.

4. ADJUSTING TO NEW HOURS Late night shopping is a tradition for last minute Christmas shoppers, and retailers’ hours extend dramatically during the holiday season. It is important that despite late night closes the same safety procedures are followed by employees at the end of the night. Properly locking up and handling of deposit bags are important processes and should be followed just as closely at the end of a long shift.

Also, consider your businesses location and workers safety practices for employees leaving after dark. This could be a buddy system or hiring escort security, to make sure your employees all make it home safe for the holidays.

7. DECORATE WITH CARE Choosing and placing any festive store decorations could save your business a lot of problems. Selecting noncombustible ornaments and properly weighing and tying down your decorations could save your business from a disastrous debacle. Additionally, making sure your displays do not cover any safety exits or emergency signs means your stores can embrace the Christmas spirit with care.

8. MANAGING RECEIPTS Proper handling, distribution and filling of receipts is an easy solution to internal theft and forged returns.

The gift giving season can prompt an influx of unwanted presents being bought back to retailers.

Return policies should be strictly abided by, for both employees and customers, to make sure your business isn’t suffering for the sake of people’s poor gift selection. By properly distributing receipts and explaining your returns policies to customers upon their purchase, you can ensure that fraudulent returns are minimised.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 15

BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY

FANTASTIC BEASTS: THE CRIMES OF GRINDELWALD The latest instalment of the Harry Potter franchise, directed by David Yates, is set to hit cinemas midNovember. With a war between magic and non-magical people on the horizon for these long-beloved characters, love and loyalties are tested. Renown characters Albus Dumbledore and Newt Scamander return to the screen alongside an array of new faces, both friends and foes.

The film takes place in 1927, and costume designer Colleen Atwood was able to combine fashion references from the period with unique character-driven designs.

Claudia Kim’s character Nagini dons a long dress with blue foil and sparkling netting which cascades down her body. We see her character transform into a snake in the films feature trailer, the costume playing on the characters tie to the devious reptile without appearing overly designed or comical. Each character provides a unique perspective on the fashion of the period. The costuming of Zoe Kravitz character, Leta, brings an aristocratic French flare to the film, with sleek designs which provide stunning and referential silhouettes. The fantasy films use of costume fits perfectly within the period of the film while giving enough unique design to keep the presentations engaging.

Director Bryan Singer brings the colourful history of infamous rock-and-roll super band Queen to the big screen. All eyes are on front-man Freddie Mercury, as the film delves into his quest for a solo career and his tragic death following the AIDS epidemic in 1980. Mercury is celebrated alongside his bandmates in this cinematic homage to the influential group.

Costume designer Julian Day was able to capture Mercury’s groundbreaking fashion legacy, who she once described as a visionary for those who wanted to break free of rules and norms. Mercury was a pioneer for androgynous fashion, and the film’s costumes capture the stars taste for drama and flare. From his classic embellished, plunged-neck harlequin to a recreation of the leather ensemble from the bands the Live Aid performance, iconic fashion moments are taking centre stage in this film.

“I have fun with my clothes onstage; it’s not a concert you’re seeing, it’s a fashion show,” Mercury said. This sentiment is exemplified through-out, as we are able to sit back and appreciate the stunning displays of musical and stylistic showmanship this film has to offer.

BAD TIMES AT THE EL ROYALE

A STAR IS BORN Musical, romantic, drama film A Star is Born, directed by Bradley Cooper stars Cooper himself, Lady Gaga, Andrew Dice Clay, Dave Chappelle and Sam Elliot, and follows a harddrinking musician who falls in love with a young singer. Famous musician Jackson Maine (Bradley Cooper) is privately battling alcohol and drug addiction when he discovers and falls for struggling new artist, Ally (Lady Gaga). Just before she gives up on her dream, Jackson persuades her to give it another shot.

Costume designer for the film, Erin Benach said she and her team worked incredibly hard when costuming Ally as they were challenged with creating a new style that didn’t have any Gaga in it. “That was one of the biggest challenges of the movie. Everybody has their own ideas of what rock stars look and dress like, off-duty and on-duty. And on top of that, having Gaga be Gaga, we were so conscious.” Ally is dressed in a minimalist black slip when she first appears in the film, contrasting to what Benach originally planned – a more extravagant ‘Ally in drag’ look, but changed her mind five minutes before shooting. “[The black dress] actually popped her out and made her personality come through even more. Doing it in a simple way and letting Jack see her. Nakedly, openly and simply – and it was meant to be a moment that she catches his eye. Less is more sometimes in those moments.”

For inspirations in costuming Gaga and the rest of the cast, Benach looked at fashion week runways and top 40 style charts that didn’t involve the stars. When not performing, the main characters costuming included casual, but still fashionable, street-type wear with neutral colours and patterns.

16 I November 2018

Directed by Drew Goddard, Bad Times at the El Royale is a neo-noir thriller film that follows seven strangers who each hide dark secrets that come to light one night in a shady California-Nevada hotel. Starring actors such as Jon Hamm as Dwight Broadback, a vacuum cleaner salesman; Chris Hemsworth as Billy Lee, a charismatic cult leader; and Cynthia Erivo as Darlene Sweet, a struggling singer, the strangers converge one fateful night for a last-ditch shot at redemption before everything goes terribly wrong. Secrets reveal these characters are not who they mask themselves to be.

Danny Glicker, costume designer for the film, was inspired by the era of the movie – the sixties – when deciding on clothing items. A decade of assassinations, war and political unrest, Glicker kept in mind the narrative of the movie as being centred around archetypes such as a hippie cult leader and good-old-boy when picking out fitting pieces. “For a costume designer, those are all very exciting places to begin thinking about a project.” He envisioned how he would see each character emerge and develop, and dressed them to suit – Erivo in a beehive hairdo, Hamm in a plaid sports jacket and horn-rimmed glasses and Hemsworth in a white button-down with detailed embroidery on the back. Glicker created a book of research for each character with carefully planned outfit ideas relevant to the film’s setting and theme. “I’m not just thinking about one character when I’m considering how he or she is dressed. I’m thinking about the whole world they’re coming from. The thing that I always like to ask myself is, ‘what is the character trying to project to the world, and what is it that they’re trying not to project?’”Glicker fondly called each main costume worn by each character their “hero look” and ensured it was designed to withstand stunts, weather conditions, environments and different levels of lighting.

The rules of wholesale have changed, are you with them?

edited

There’s a tension in fashion between the traditional wholesale brands and new direct-to-consumer brands.

On one side, wholesale has felt robbed as these sexy new D2Cs, who’ve nailed social media, have come in with their finely tuned brand narratives and retail margins.

On the flip side, after initial boom, many of the D2C brands have seen their customer growth plateau without having formed retail partnerships to get them through the next stage of expansion.

Wholesale plays a very necessary role for many brands (and increasingly, even D2Cs). Brands that might not have their own stores, might not have their own footprint in other regions or might not have a broad enough offering to create their own engaging content.

Wholesale no longer has to be the weaker position.

Happily, there has never been more technology at hand to help strengthen wholesale brands along their supply chain. Virtual showrooms, 3D design and tools which give brands full access to the market without the need for their own retail sales data. Us included!

SO HOW CAN WHOLESALERS WHOLESALE BETTER? Knowledge has always been power. It’s the scale of that knowledge that has shifted, thanks to artificial intelligence and big data. These days, to win at wholesale you’ve got to get clued up, to a new level.

KNOW WHERE AND HOW THE WHOLESALE MARKET IS GROWING Using EDITED data, it’s fast to see how the wholesale market has changed over time. Next has increased its offering of brands stocked on its UK site by 10 percent from last year (excluding private label), adding brands such as River Island, Missguided and Dorothy Perkins.

Following this trend, Zalando has seen a slight increase in the number of brands offering new product year-on-year. ASOS is focusing on the growth of activewear labels it stocks.

Why not analyze the 20 most stocked brands today compared to two years ago at one of the major department stores. Are contemporary brands coming through more, or is sportswear climbing up the ranks?

ASK: WHAT DOES THIS CUSTOMER REALLY WANT? One of the biggest headaches for a wholesaler is entering new territories blind. On new turf it’s essential to tailor your assortment to the customer in that market.

Whether it’s a new region or a new relationship

with a wholesale partner, you’ve got to do your homework and analyze what’s working well.

Lay it all out: what opportunity is there within a retailer’s assortment mix that your brand can fill?

What are the key shapes, colors, and patterns in this space? Is the product or trend already oversaturated in this market?

It might surprise you how much bestsellers shift within different regions at one retailer. Here’s a comparison of bestsellers from ASOS in the UK and Germany from the last month:

that has changed over time.

How does the level of discounting differ from your own site to your wholesale partners’? Are styles heavily reduced on their site which are working well for you?

For example, 56 percent of Adidas menswear at ASOS is currently discounted. And 35 percent of this product has a price reduction of 50-60 percent.

But with Adidas womenswear at ASOS, discounting is more conservative, with 52 percent of the assortment discounted and only 17 percent reduced between 50-60 percent. If you’re Adidas, knowing that information might impact the weighting of product you attribute to the retailer.

THE LUXURY WHOLESALE FASHION MARKET IS WORTH $275BN

KNOW YOUR PRICE POINT It’s essential to understand the pricing structure of a new market. Does your brand stack up alongside its competitors at a potential new retailer?

Pinpoint the entry, exit and average price point of key categories. It minimises the risk of entering new space over or underpriced.

It also comes in handy if you’re experiencing pushback from a wholesale partner suggesting your product is priced too high or too low for their site.

Arm yourself with knowledge of the market and have the data to back it up!

How does a competitor’s price structure at a wholesale partner differ from their own site?

UNDERSTAND YOUR DISCOUNTING One of the risks in wholesale is the lack of control over what happens to your product once it’s with the retailer. What will they discount and by how much?

As a wholesale brand you need to have visibility of the depth, range and distribution of discounts taken across a brand’s assortment. Research what the retailer is doing with your competitor brands and see how

If you’re in luxury wholesale, you’ll know that consumer is a completely different beast. They will tirelessly compare prices across a number of different retailers for the ‘it’ item.

MONITOR BRAND PERCEPTION After all that work ensuring product and price is on point, it’s crucial that your brand looks good on a wholesale partner’s website. To minimise risk, there are so many things a wholesale brand has to ask itself.

How is the retailer marketing your brand? What products are they promoting and through which channels? Which other brands’ products are they promoting next to yours? Is there an opportunity to be featured more?

accessory alert

PARED Pared’s eyewear is known for its innovative, unique designs, and its latest collection is no exception. The brand was founded by two great minds – Samantha Stevenson and Edward Baker – and is the perfect synthesis of creative vision and business acumen.

Stevenson and Baker have been married for two years, but have been running Pared since 2012. Both co-founders, Stevenson – who previously designed for Ksubi – is the creative director and Baker brings years of experience in marketing, operations, and financial management to the table.

The Australian company’s first collection was called Now & Then, and it launched in a limited number of boutiques. Several iconic styles created as part of this collection (such as the distinctive cat eye Puss & Boots) are still some of the brand’s top-selling items to date thanks to Stevenson’s timeless design skills.

The current collection is called Veni, Vidi, Amavi; a play on Julius Caesar’s famous line, it means “I came I saw, I loved.” The frames are inspired by the Italian Riviera of the 1980s, and the campaign was shot in Capri to bring to the fore the art and architecture that inspired Stevenson’s work.

“Eyewear lends itself to be easily influenced by external industries,” said Stevenson. “It’s a fashion accessory which holds strong sculptural shape and colour, and therefore inspiration can come from anywhere.”

The brand places value on leading industry trends, rather than following them. “Many eyewear brands follow the same trends and it sets a considerably boring narrative for a collection,” explained Stevenson.

Stevenson prefers to take trends and make them her own, using new patterns and techniques to break the mould – quite literally.

Global Sales Manager Jenny Hudson said that although using injection moulds for eyewear is industry standard, Pared doesn’t do it because it reduces the quality and limits the styling. Stevenson works closely with manufacturers to ensure the designs are perfect. “Often the factory will tell her it can’t be done, but somehow it always is,” said Hudson.

Operating on the principle that it’s better to use trial and error than pump out the same designs as every other brand, Pared named itself after the process of design refinement. To ‘pare’ is to cut something back, or refine it. It’s also, of course, a play on the word “pair.” The wordplay continues in the design names: Puss & Boots, Romeo & Juliet, Bread & Butter. The brand is also known for its collaborations across fashion, music, and art, so it’s truly pared/ paired in every sense of the word.

These partnerships are set to continue as Pared grows its business internationally. It has a Friends of the Brand portfolio that has allowed it to establish a cult following among style influencers: Suki Waterhouse, Cara Delevinge, and Helena Christensen are just a few of the notable names to wear Pared.

The goal is to become the number one fashion eyewear brand in the world. “A big gesture, but something we know we can achieve,” said Stevenson.

The majority of its sales have been through the website, but the brand knows having brick-andmortar stores is invaluable to building an international fashion brand. “Having a physical presence in a city gives the brand a sort of credibility which can’t be attributed online,” said Baker. “It allows customers to get to know the product before buying, it involves less purchase risk, and it gives our brand more points of contact with our audience.”

Pared enjoys being stocked by smaller boutiques alongside major department stores like Nordstrom and Bloomingdales. “We look to be stocked in innovative, fashion forward boutiques who align with our brand ethos,” said Baker.

The second frame in the ‘Bec & Bridge x Pared’ partnership launches Globally on November 20.

Retailers interested in stocking Pared eyewear can look go to paredeyewear.com for more information.

SILKY TOTS

work,” explained Bardis. Their products have been designed to align with the SIDS Safety guidelines, with techniques to eliminate friction and prevent baby bald spots. “I still get emotional when I receive positive feedback from an excited mum.”

Silky Tots is looking to expand to the global market and bring its elegant designs to nurseries all around the world. Check out the before and after results of children using the products on Instagram by searching @silkytots. To become involved with them email hello@silkytots.com or visit the website www.silkytots.com.

Australian born brand Silky Tots is bringing the luxury of silk bedding to the everyday parent. The brand offers a collection of silk bedding products for babies and children, designed specifically to eliminate balding and reduced tangles and matted hair for their young customers. With a background in textiles, founder Nikki Bardis has used soft, gender-neutral colours in her designs to fit neatly in any nursery.

Bardis keeps the consumer at the forefront of her design decisions. “We have managed to make the benefits of silk accessible to everyday families at a much more affordable cost,” said Bardis. Silk has always been hailed as a material which allows for the breathing of our skin and hair, but the high cost has been a large deterrent for consumers. By replacing the underside of the cot slip with stretch material and having the top side as silk, Bardis has been able to ensure the price point of her products appealed to every parent. “I am a problem solver at heart, and have a real passion for product development.”

Safety and functionality are essential aspects of the Silky Tots collection. “Our goal at Silky Tots is to ensure that all of our products actually

18 I November 2018

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I 19

edited

A market read ahead of Black Friday 2018 For some, it’s the retailing event of the year and it’s fast approaching.

If you’re in the retailing business you’ll have a strategy for this time of year – no doubt one you’ve been working on for the last 361 days. As we enter into this crunch time, there are still tweaks you can make to save yourself from needless margin slashing.

Step one is to get clued up. Your best friend in the coming weeks is data. Right now you should be making sure items which have been unexpectedly hot in the last few weeks aren’t lined up for 60 percent price culls over the discounting weekend.

And keep an eye on what shifts your competitors are making.

Looking at the way retailers have increased their assortments reveals some key areas for potential reductions over the holidays.

For one, there is 23 percent more swim in stock now than a year ago. Yes, consumers are holidaying more out of season, but it’s not going to be a focus for their spend in November unless you tempt them with unmissable deals.

STRATEGISE TO AVOID RETURNS

Meanwhile over in the UK, which has been slower to join the Black Friday sale frenzy, there is 10 percent more product available now than last October, but new arrivals from October are down by 7.2 percent.

The number of first discounts outstripped the US rate, up by 19 percent so far this quarter. And, despite that, the number of product sell outs fell 13 percent. It appears that the UK is becoming increasingly discount-resistant.

In both regions, the increased market sizes and increased first discounting stats suggest that too many retailers manufacturing for reductions.

ASSORTMENT SHIFTS FOR BLACK FRIDAY 2018

20 I November 2018

• • • • • • •

Animal print Statement sneakers Ribbed/knit dresses Midi dresses Oversized tees and hoodies Teddy textured coats and jackets Longline cardigans

PRIME FOR REDUCTION:

So far in the US for Q4 2018 there has been 12.6

STATE OF PLAY IN THE UK

DON’T REDUCE:

However, the stuff below has already been discounted by more than 20 percent, having only arrived at retailers since the start of September.

THE US MARKET AHEAD OF BLACK FRIDAY 2018

percent more first discounts applied than the same period last year. That builds on from Q3, which closed at 5.2 percent more first discounts than Q3 2017.

However, it’s not all doom and gloom, as retailers have increased the number of new products by 9.3 percent so far.

That brings the total number of products available now up by 20 percent from a year ago. And the products are connecting well, with a 32 percent hike in sell outs.

full price on these products:

More troubling is that bottoms are up by 17.6 percent and footwear is up 10.8 percent. Returns rates can be crippling for some retailers after Black Friday. Returns strike especially hard for categories which have many sizes, or are a more complicated fit – like footwear and pants.

Not helping this cause is an unfortunate decline in the number of products described as “one size” – there is 43 percent less product in stock this October than last.

Instead, be promotional around size-less items like bags (thankfully up by 12.4 percent), small leather goods, scarves, hats and gloves, or items where fit is less important such as nightwear, t-shirts and sweaters.

HOW MUCH TO REDUCE BY? In the US so far this October the most commonlyapplied first discount is 20-30 percent off, representing 27 percent of discounted products.

Retailers give the 30-40 percent and 40-50 percent brackets equal treatment, with both representing 21 percent of first discounts this month.

Looking at October 2017 we can see that first discounts are getting more aggressive. Last year the 20-30 percent bracket represented 32 percent of discounts applied, which means it shrunk by five percentage points this year. Meanwhile, the 40-50 percent off range accounted for just 18 percent of discounted products – a growth of three percentage points in 2018.

Those shifts early on in the season imply we’re in for aggressive price cuts. Retailers need to be careful how they choose to compete with that.

Our advice is to pay attention to the products which don’t need to have bumper price drops in order to sell. We can already see fast movement, at

Menswear: • Grey marl • Zip-through hoodies • Boldly printed performance coats Womenswear: • Lightweight culottes • Tartan prints • Hanky hems

EARLY BLACK FRIDAY COMMUNICATIONS Some retailers are already discussing their Black Friday 2018 plans in newsletter to customers. Our Visual Merchandising software gives us insight on exactly when retailers begin talking about discounting, and what on.

Jack Wills promises this year’s Black Friday sale will be bigger than ever, and is encouraging its customers to sign up for daily deals. Old Navy is holding a “Black Friday pre-sale” from November 15-18 for its VIP cardholders. And Hudson’s Bay was pushing “Canadian Black Friday” over Canada’s Thanksgiving Oct 5-7.

IS RED NO LONGER THE COLOR OF SALES? One interesting thing we spotted when looking at sale newsletters sent out in the past week, is just how dated the traditional red sale graphics look.

There’s a really strong momentum for sale imagery in a new color: yellow. These are just some that were sent out in the last week: Shoppers are absorbing more visual trends than ever before. For communications to really resonate and stand out from the masses, they have to pay homage to the striking look of the moment.

There’s still time to update your Black Friday comms plan, and good luck to all retailers in the coming weeks!

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24 I November 2018