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NOVEMBER 2019 I VOL 52 I NO 11
editor ’ s note
fashionable reads
John Galliano for Dior
THE C WORD
Christmas is here. It may be November, but I can already smell the pine. E-retailers have started early, blasting newsletters and Instagram with their Christmas-themed pyjamas and matching dog apparel. To boost your silly season sales, I have strung together a couple of tips. FOCUS ON EXPERIENCES Hire more seasonal part-timers and put a huge push on customer service. It’s a fine line between pushing masses of people out the door and creating a great experience that will transform consumers into loyal returning customers. Sell each person on your service, your store, your trusted curation of products. This way, you will have them returning for Boxing Day, Valentine’s Day, birthdays, and weekends. People buy off people they like, and everyone knows the end of year is the most stressful shopping season. Long lines, crowded stores, horrible returns. Prepare your employees to be extremely helpful, know your stock, and know your returns policy like it’s the national anthem. The goal is long-term business.
DELIVERY IS A THING NOW E-commerce must be a piece of cake, right? Wrong. Make sure your store policies are crystal clear and that customers immediately know their delivery options. This is best done by adding a new banner to the top of your website. Consumers want to know if it’s free and when they’ll have it by. I recommend adding an order by date to receive by Christmas or add a click-andcollect in-store button.
don’t recommend using keywords like ‘Christmas’ or ‘presents’, you will be overwhelmed by bigger brands and the masses advertising on those words already. Instead use one liners like What She Really Wants, He’ll Approve Of This, or Cheap ‘n Cheerful.
MERCHANDISING Get your best sellers up front and centre. Make sure your easiest add-ons are on the counter, this means wrapping paper, cards, small gifts like candles and gift cards. Gift guides can also transform into visual wall art – tell your customers ten products that go together like a sustainable selection of products like metal straws, reusable bags, lunchboxes, organic cotton t-shirts and so on. Keep your store merchandised to recognise theft as well. It’s an endless task, but being vigilant while restocking is an easy dual task. It can be hard to see a hair out of place when chaos reigns.
DON’T NEGLECT SOCIAL MEDIA This is not the time to be cheap. Have giveaways, curate gift guides online and in-store, create content that gets the viewer’s attention. Make sure you continuously run your campaigns through December, but do not send out daily newsletters. I
CHAIRMAN Peter Mitchell ISSN 1171-2287 PUBLISHER Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Suite 9, Level 3, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com PO +64 9 304 0142 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the CONTENT MANAGERS Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com publisher. Copyright 2018 NZ Apparel Magazine. GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM Raymund Sarmiento
INTERN
2 I November 2019
Ciaran Carroll Janet Guan
By Robert Fairer Showcasing John Galliano’s creations and vision throughout his years with Dior, the book boasts some of the most breath-taking collections ever made. Opening with an essay of the designer’s work, readers can then indulge on a capsule of showstopping designs which reveal behind the scenes moments, models and Galliano himself at their most creative. The captivating photography portrays the wild imagination that shone at each one of Galliano’s Dior shows. A must have novel for fashion and photography fanatics alike.
Worn on this day: The Clothes that Made History
By Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell Beginning on January 1 and finishing on December 31, Worn On This Day provides a day to day recount of some of history’s most memorable garments. Spreads across decades, the stunning visual guide spotlights distinctive pieces including Olympic uniforms, space suits, famous wedding dresses and even the shoes of a World Trade Centre survivor. The novel presents a mixture of newsworthy outfits from famous and glamorous, to anonymous and humble and each offering an intriguing narrative. Beautifully illustrated, the book boasts a collection of stories, styles and personalities.
100 Fashion Icons
By Magda Keaney From the collection of London’s National Portrait Gallery, this book presents a striking assortment of portraits that illustrate key styles from different eras. Beginning in the 1850s and unfolding to the modern day, each image depicts the captivating styles of fashion icons and designers from throughout history. With an introductory text reminiscing on the journey of the fashion industry, the book proceeds to showcase images of some of fashion’s most renowned names, including Kate Moss, Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood.
Dress your best life
By Dawnn Karen Fashion psychologist, designer and former model Dawnn Karen reveals the fascinating theories as to why we choose the clothing we do and how to dress to uplift your mood. The novel focuses on overcoming wardrobe hangups and finding the inner confidence and fashion sense each person possesses. Drawing on cutting edge research and real-life case studies, Dress your best life ensures a positive change for anyone willing to give it a try.
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fast five
DEUCE X STORM H&M COMES TO NEWMARKET The international fashion retailer, H&M, known for fashion and quality at the best price in a sustainable way, has announced a fourth store for Auckland to open in Westfield Newmarket on 12 December 2019. The new store will be approximately 2,300 square metres and set across two levels, showcasing apparel and accessories for men, women, youth, kids and baby, as well as the popular home department. The recruitment process for approximately 50 employees, including the roles of store manager, department managers, visual merchandisers, and sales advisors, is now underway. H&M first entered the New Zealand market in 2016 and today there are seven stores nationwide: Sylvia Park, Commercial Bay, and Botany Town Centre in Auckland, The Crossing in Christchurch, Queensgate in Wellington, and
Tauranga Crossing and Chartwell Shopping Centre in Hamilton. The retailer announced its eighth New Zealand store opened on 7 November 2019. Through the development of stores in different regions, H&M offers a broad product range including the latest trend and inspiration for customers to create their personal style. “We are thrilled to be a part of the much-anticipated Westfield Newmarket,” said Daniel Lattemann, country sales manager for H&M New Zealand. “We are also delighted to be able to finally offer a second Auckland location for our customers to shop H&M HOME as we have seen such a demand since launching the concept in our Commercial Bay store last year.” With multiple H&M stores popping up, all the seasonal trendy pieces will surely be hard to miss.
FIRST CAMPAIGN For quality footwear, Pat Menzies located in Canterbury Arcade on Queen Street will not disappoint. Since 1975, Pat Menzies has been the one-stop-shop for Kiwis to get their Converse, Dr Martens and Vans. The brand also expanded by constructing a Converse store that has over 100 new styles as well as the original, well-loved designs. Walking into the store gives customers a sense of history as it was one of the only places you could get a pair of vans or chucks back in the ’80s. Leading brands like Dr Martens, RM Williams, Blundstone and Birkenstock that have been offered for over 20 years are aesthetically displayed on the walls. The high-quality shoes also come with high-quality customer service from employees that have stayed with the company for over 30 years. Pat Menzies makes Kiwis nostalgic over their first pair of sneakers and the familiar customer service. Launching their first brand campaign to show the story of the historical footwear brand proves to be inclusive of all customers, staff and the Menzies family. The campaign, which features long-time customers sharing the story of their first pair of shoes, will introduce new customers to the store. The campaign will be presented on street posters, print and online with images of musician Theia, local DJs, students and new people being introduced monthly. Pat Menzies is connecting the local community by sharing experiences around purchasing your favourite footwear. For more information visit www.patmenziesshoes.co.nz.
4 I November 2019
Kiwi shoe brand Merchant 1948 and clothing brand Storm have united to create an exclusive 3-piece range of Deuce sneakers that will launch mid-November. As the two brands share similar values and design ethos, producing the unique collection was a natural progression. Blending Storm’s edgy signature aesthetic with Merchant 1948’s high-quality design and comfort, the range is a perfect fit for both of the brands’ customers. Director of the range Louise Anselmi said that the two brands felt like a perfect pairing. “We believe many New Zealand women feel strongly about supporting homegrown NZ brands and will shop in Storm for their apparel and Merchant 1948 for their footwear,” she said. Showcasing the perfect combination of a no-fuss attitude and sleek silhouette, the range includes two vulcanised leather sneakers and a chunky sneaker with metallic trim. The shoes boast striking details including studs, cosmic icons and double-height soles, separating them from other contending sneakers on the market. Storm’s iconic symbols including wings, studs, and animal prints are embedded on the shoes, further highlighting the sartorial edge of the Deuce sneaker. The range has been a true collaboration from start to finish, wholly designed in-house and produced by Merchant 1948’s craftsmen in their purposebuilt factory. “The opportunity to collaborate was an exciting and inspiring challenge, to design styles that express Storm’s inherent DNA and also allows the Deuce customer to feel part of the Storm brand,” said Anselmi. The sneaker range is available for purchase in selected Merchant 1948 stores, all Storm stores, and online across both retailers.
NEW ZEALAND DESIGNER SHOWCASE AT VANCOUVER FASHION WEEK
Taking applications now to be part of our emerging designer showcase ‘Apparel Presents’ at VFW FW20 in March 2020
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THE WORLD LEGACY CHARITY PROJECT New Zealand fashion and beauty brand WORLD is collaborating with IHC New Zealand to launch the World Legacy Charity Project. Co-founder and director of WORLD, Dame Denise L’EstrangeCorbet, has been working with the IHC Art Awards since 2009 and was recently named their ambassador. In celebration of WORLD’S 30th Anniversary, WORLD has launched a range of limited-edition, unbleached cotton reusable canvas bags. The four artists include 58-year-old Andrew Young who enjoys painting and drawing subjects from the natural world,
6 I November 2019
Christina Van Der Hooft who uses geometric patterns in her paintings, Joanna Lynskey who worked at WORLD’S head office for seven years and whose artwork was purchased through the IHC Art Awards, and Jordan Chow who portrays his love for animals in his art. All profits made from the sale of these bags will go directly to the artists and the IHC Art Awards.
THE FUTURE OF THE SHOE INDUSTRY The International Union of Shoe Industry Technicians' (UITIC) next congress will take place in China in 2021 and will be hosted by the China Leather Industry Association. Since 1972, the congress has united footwear experts from around the world and is organised in two sessions. The first day is dedicated to visiting footwear companies, while the second day is dedicated to presentations and technical talks. The Scientific Committee is responsible for selecting presentations that will contribute to the sector.
UITIC's next congress is a unique opportunity to understand the future of the industry. UITIC's President Yves Moren said the last edition in Porto exceeded everyone's expectation with 540 delegates from 33 countries in attendance. "I hope professionals take this opportunity to come back to China and discover how this country is preparing the future of the sector." The 2021 event will be the second time the congress has been held in China, following the 18th edition, in 2018, in Dongguan and Guangzhou.
PLANET FR I E N D LY CLOT HI N G FOR BABIES A N D YO UN G CHI LD RE N WWW.BUCKANDBAA.COM
retail eye
Kowtow
NEWMARKET, AUCKLAND
For the birth of a successful retail space, it is important to include alluring elements, one being the stores layout and design. A store’s layout, including the flow, merchandise placement and ambience, is imperative for influencing customer behaviour and the store’s overall success. A popular Kiwi boutique store that offers such intriguing design is Kowtow boutique. Kowtow boutique was founded in 2007 by Gosia Piatek and focuses heavily on committing to positive change. The ethical fashion house uses only renewable fibres and ethical manufacturing, allowing the brand to deliver clothing that is minimal and sustainable. Kowtow has recently opened its doors in Newmarket, following the stores flagship opening in Wellington last year. Piatek explained that Newmarket was her chosen spot for the Auckland store as she was inspired by the building, history and symmetry. The store’s fitout was created by award-winning designer Rufus Knight who payed homage to the brands aesthetic with natural materials and a circular design model. Inside the elegant space Knight has emphasised the brand’s use of natural, locally sourced and sustainable materials, while creating a retail space unique to Auckland. Knight also brought in local sculptor Gidon Bing to create the store’s special design elements including the point of sale and the American oak door handle. Piatek said Kowtow’s physical space allows customers to understand the brand more intimately. “For us, its about offering an experience. Making people feel comfortable and inviting conversation.” So far, the Kowtow Newmarket store has gained significant attraction, offering a serene space of simplicity and warmth. Customers can relax and take their time, while admiring the brands elegant garments and interior space. Piatek said it is important for the Kowtow team to understand the company’s ethos and to feel confident
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communicating that back to customers. Additionally, Kowtow stocks other brands that align with their values, so that customers can experience ethics and sustainability beyond clothing. Although Kowtow now has two beautifully designed stores, the brand also broadens its reach
with pop-ups. Pop-up stores provide a great opportunity to meet customers in each region and reflect the standard of the brands permanent spaces. Kowtow stores can be visited in both Auckland and Wellington, however as a global brand, they are always looking for new opportunities to expand.
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I9
designer focus
Debbie Smith
Southland-born Debbie Smith has held a burning passion for design since the young age of seven. Creating original dresses for her barbie dolls and knitting a woollen vest, a designer career was inevitable. After leaving high school, Smith attempted to join the Fashion and Design Course at Invercargill’s Southern Institute of technology. Unable to get in she decided to attend the Art & Craft Foundation course in which she adopted valuable creative skills.“This led me into another creative path where I could explore different techniques and work with other materials.” Living on a farm in Waimumu with her husband and four children, Smith decided to put her dreams to one side. The need to create, however, constantly nagged her. When an opportunity to assist with art at the areas local school, Smith grabbed it with both hands. Te Tipua students were studying sustainability, which led to the idea of recycling unused items and transforming them into wearable art. Smith instantly fell in love with the idea and began creating recyclable designs. “A creative mind never stops thinking about designing and I would often wonder how I could use that unused but once loved item.” Smith’s most recent garment, “You were our hardest goodbye” was entered into the Hokonui Fashion Awards “Apparel Magazine Recycled Section.” The garment was a dedication to Jonty Carran, who tragically passed away in his sleep at only thirteen years old. Working with the Carran family, Smith said the garment was designed to tell a story and keep Jonty’s memory alive. Using a range of recycled materials, some over 100-years-old, Smith was able to bring new life to forgotten fabrics. The garment included a clay-made broken heart and the words “I tried to stitch it back together, but it still feels broken”, a message shared across social media by Jonty’s mum. Speaking of her inspiration, 46-year-old Smith boasted about Trelise Cooper. As the renowned designer had no formal training in sewing or education in fashion, Smith developed a similar selfconfidence and began drafting designs. “I love Trelise Cooper’s philosophy, ‘fashion is the theatre of dreams’,” said Smith. “I admire her passion and drive to succeed.” Recently, Smith has begun attending classes at Bernina Southland to further her sewing skills and to surround herself with like-minded people. Moving forward, Smith dreams of entering the Wow Show and hopes to put together a clothing collection for the 2020 Hokonui Fashion Awards show.
20 minutes with
Erin O'Brien
OVERLAND FOOTWEAR PEOPLE AND CULTURE MANAGER In the 2019 Humankind Employee Experience Awards, Overland Footwear were announced as the winner of the Medium-Large Category (151-500 employees). In conversation with Erin O’Brien, people and culture manager at Overland Foot, Apparel Magazine learned about what it means to nurture employees and encourage workplace positivity. “We have a big culture of learning and growing our people,” said O’Brien. “We put in a lot of work in all levels of the organisation to make sure people are progressing and growing to their potential.” The awards recognise New Zealand’s best places to work and highlight key workplace ideas like purpose, wellbeing, technology and doing more with less. The other winners included Lysaght Consultants, who won the Small Workplace Category (20-50 employees), Cake Commercial Services taking out the Small to Medium Category (51-150 employees), and Xero, winning the Large Category (500 plus employees). “The results are effectively driven by all the people,” said O’Brien. “It’s always an honour to be recognised for the work we do.” Overland’s employee-centric culture was apparent in the initiatives that O’Brien described occur in their workspace. She said that they celebrate as often as possible. And importantly, they make sure that their values are kept alive and celebrated daily and weekly. On a day-to-day basis, O’Brien said that people can nominate each other if they are seen to be living and breathing for our values. Part of Overland’s thriving workplace environment comes from the investment it entrusts with its staff. O’Brien said that 78 percent of Overland’s roles are filled internally, so there is a big focus on growing people. If someone joins Overland as a part-timer, they know that they will be given the tools, resources and time to progress up a career path. Entrepreneurial founder of Overland Group, Shane Anselmi, encourages innovative ways of keeping the working day exciting. “He’s got that lovely ability to inspire people to come up with different ways of doing and trying things,” said O’Brien. “We are all challenged to ask what we can do better. In that way, people feel like they can make their role their own.” Personally, O’Brien was attracted to the fact that in her role, she can assist in helping people to love their job. She said that people should look forward to going to work. “You spend more time at work than at home, so you should absolutely love what you do.” Additionally, the fast-paced nature of retail is something that O’Brien was excited to work around. Retail can be a tough industry to retain happy and productive staff. O’Brien said that although it can be hard, Overland is more holistic than just ‘sell, sell, sell’. “Our learning culture and career progression opportunities are also attractive and provide an added incentive for staff.” O’Brien noted that Overland is also well aware of the challenges of engaging a millennial workforce who are looking for purpose and ethics. She said that they
We have a big culture of learning and growing our people, we put in a lot of work in all levels of the organisation to make sure people are progressing and growing to their potential. take time to constantly learn and grow so that they can keep up with how to tap into that generation and keep them interested. O’Brien is relatively new in her role, something that has not slowed her down from getting stuck into bettering the company. “It’s a cool opportunity to come into a business with an incredible foundation that is doing amazing things,” said O’Brien.
“It’s also a real challenge to not only maintain things but to do things better, and I’m constantly asking myself what fresh ideas can I bring to the table, or what new technology is out there that I can look into and provide different tools.” Moving forward, O’Brien said she would like to discover more ways in which technology can further improve opportunities for employees.
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I 11
How essential is promoting Singles Day outside of China?
edited
US and UK retailers are competing for a sliver of the $38.4B profits Singles Day made this year. So we rounded up how the event fared and key takeaways for 2020. Alibaba's Singles Day sold $38.4 billion worth of goods, maintaining its status as the biggest shopping day on the planet. Outside of the Chinese e-comm giant, mass retailers in the US & UK are competing for a slice of the pie. We round up how Singles Day fared as well as key takeaways for 2020.
THREE LESSONS LEARNED IN 2019 Singles Day is getting bigger outside of China: Products first discounted the week of the event are up 9 percent in the US and 86 percent in the UK. The US market focused on streamlining its discounting, giving equal distribution to key promotional brackets. The UK is playing catch up to the US and are discounting wider rather than deeper. Promotions are starting earlier and lasting longer: Furla was the first retailer to mention Singles Day on the 1st of Nov. Retailers such as Scotch & Soda and Opening Ceremony promoted pre-sale offers to generate hype for the event while Uniqlo ran a four day offer. The Modist started promoting a 40 percent off deal in the lead up, which deepened to 60 percent off on the 11th. Multiples of 11 were favored in promotions: 11 percent, 22 percent and 33 percent were one of the strongest messages among customer communications.
12 I November 2019
Additionally, retailers continued to use this opportunity to celebrate Girl Power and self love with messages such as 'Miss Independent' and 'Treat Yourself'.
INSIGHT INTO US MARKET DATA Retailers increased the number of products that received their first discount on the week of Singles Day by 9 percent YoY. On the day of the event, 53 percent of products in the US mass market were reduced, a slight uptick on the 52 percent discounted in 2018. The distribution of discounts became more streamlined YoY. In 2018, 40-50 percent was the favored discount range, making up 24 percent of total Singles Day reductions. This year, equal weighting was given to the 20-30 percent and 50-60 percent off brackets, while the number of products reduced at 3040 percent and 40-50 percent evened out. The category discounted the deepest for menswear was tops, which made up 35 percent of product reduced by 60 percent or deeper. For womenswear, tops only equaled 19 percent of reductions over 60 percent off as accessories were hit the hardest. The retailers stocking the most products reduced by 60 percent or higher were Kohl's, Macy's and ASOS. Nasty Gal has participated in the event over the past few years. In 2018, 24 percent of products were advertised with a discount on the day. This
year, everything online was reduced, with the 60-70 percent bracket as the most favored, in line with the communicated offer of 60 percent off. Club Monaco promoted 11 percent off with a code. However, the majority of product reduced online was deeper at 2030 percent off.
WHAT’S IN STORE FOR 2020? Singles Day will continue to be important for mass retailers outside of China, particularly in the UK who are growing their discounting assortment to mirror the US. Plan for pre and post promotions, like Black Friday, discounting is not just limited to the actual day of sales. November is evolving into a discountladen month, and customers will be resistant to pay full price. Ensure your best selling products are out of the firing line for deep discounts to preserve margins, and use this event to move slow stock or generate interest for festive gifting.
beauty spot
Downlights The New Zealand fragranced soy candle company, Downlights NZ, supports the development of those living with down syndrome and other disabilities in order to teach them the skills needed in the workforce. Downlights candles are individually hand poured by these young adults with down syndrome, all while using traditional artisanal skills to ensure the best quality products for their customers. Downlights has introduced new Christmas gift sets to celebrate the upcoming festive season. The team at Downlights offers their luxurious candle ranges to local schools, communities and charities to encourage opportunities that will empower people living with disabilities. With each candle wrapped in festive custom packaging and ranging under $50, Downlights have ensured that there is something for everybody’s taste. The collection includes the seasonal scents of Noel, French Pear, White Tea and Ginger and White Peony. Available in either single mini candles gift sets, duo mini candles gift sets or soy melt burner gift sets, all of Downlights scents can effectively change the mood of any living space.
Noel introduces the traditional smell of Christmas with the natural scents of cedarwood, pine needles, pohutakawa bark and eucaplyptus leaf. French Pear brings the comforting aroma of brandied, sweet French pear and subtle hints of vanilla and clove. The relaxing scent of White Tea and Ginger will captivate all with its notes of lemon, bergamot and lily. The elegant fragrance of White Peony embodies the spirit
of the blooming white peony that will leave the space feeling earthy and romantic. Downlights NZ will celebrate this Christmas season by hosting pop-up stores on December 1 at the General Collective Markets in Green Lane West, Epsom. Their candle gift sets will also be available online at www.illumina.co.nz and www.downlightsnz.com.
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apparelmagazine.co.nz
I 15
TATYANA PARFIONOVA Resene Untamed
BODYSONG Resene Away We Go
MISTERGENTLEMAN Resene Seaweed
CHILDREN OF DISCORDANCE Resene Waiouru
odysong’s Spring Ready-toWear collection graced the stage at Tokyo Fashion Week. Filled with oversized silhouettes and bold colours, this piece was a standout in the show with the vibrant green textile looking as if it had been pegged to the white blouse-like upper. The eye-catching green in this boxy yet loose fit looks like Resene Away We Go. Children of Discordance, Japan’s leading sustainable brand saw designer Hideaki Shikama showcase an interesting colour palette, ranging from burnt orange to earthy greens. This baggy-fit jacket sported an array
SHOHEI Resene Limerick
YOSHIKIMONO Resene Atlas
DUNCAN Resene Family Tree
GUT’S DYNAMITE CABARETS Resene Niagra
of pockets for practicality and style. The loose drawstring details at the front added just that little bit of creative flair to this two-tone jacket. The earthy colours in this piece are in a shade similar to Resene Waiouru. This look by Gut’s Dynamite Cabarets designers, Cabaret Aki and Jackal Kuzu, presented a retro and hippie feel. The soft make-up look and tender curls complemented the flowy outfit. The sunny yellow striped skirt paired with a bold green jacket gave a bright and colourful look. The slightly cropped jacket added contemporary style to a classic jacket. The flowy fabric also sat gracefully on the body. The green sheen seen in this jacket is similar to Resene Niagara. Mistergentleman's oversized blazer paired with shorts just peeking out at the bottom sported a matching green checkered print on both pieces to emphasise the boxy look. The subtle but crisp
white buttons along the front of the blazer make the white background of the textile pop. The use of green as the main colour for the checkered pattern is interesting, stylish and trendy, making this piece easy to dress up or down. The dark green stripes in this pattern are similar to Resene Seaweed. Designer Lisa Pek showed off her skill in turning simple staple pieces into an art piece. She did this by mixing classics with loud prints or interesting cuts. This classic button-up shirt is given a ‘makeover’ with unexpected green panelling down the left side of the shirt. Paired with an asymmetrical skirt, we are able to see the green panelling really shine in this outfit. The watercolour-esque green pattern is simple but intriguing. The lime green panelling in this shirt is like Resene Limerick. Another checkered number was seen in this collection of green garments that are trending this Spring. Duncan’s 2020 Spring Ready-to-Wear collection featured an oversized, pattern blocking design incorporating a blinding white and a classic green tartan pattern. This trench coat used contrasting brown buttons, which almost blend into the dark green fabric, however, were hard to miss on top of the crisp white features. The boxy fit would spice up any outfit and is truly a statement piece. The dark green
seen in the tartan pattern looks like Resene Family Tree. Tatyana Parfionova’s Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear collection featured an array of beautiful dresses. This collection included a lot of patterns inspired by the natural environment. Some designs included dragonflies, cloud motifs, flowers and foliage. This particular dress has an abundance of green ferns on a bed of black mesh. It almost decorated the dress fully. However, peeks of black mesh were seen at the edges of the dress, especially in the high neckline. The layers of green ferns seen on this dress are in a hue like Resene Untamed. Last, but not least, this dress by Yoshikimono was supported by a full collection of various kimono-inspired garments. This dress hits just at the ankles, a length that is seen in most traditional kimonos. Moreover, the fit of the dress undoubtedly drew inspiration from the traditional Japanese kimono. Designer Yoshiki hopes to bring life back to the declining kimono industry. His contemporary and creative take on the traditional kimono led to this dark green number. With subtle Japanese elements shining through, it is still ultimately very stylish and sleek with its green hue aligning closely with Resene Atlas.
radar
Child & Baby LOVED AND TRUSTED
Founded in 1991, Bobux was the first brand to produce a soft sole shoe for infants and newborns. Since then, soft soles have gone on to become a widely manufactured category in children’s shoes with Bobux becoming the world leader in children’s shoe design from newborns right up to 8-year-olds. The very first pair of soft sole shoes were designed in Auckland by the founders of Bobux. “The Bobux brand is fiercely loved and trusted,” said Amy Wright, head of marketing, brand and e-commerce at Bobux. “Over the last 30 years, Bobux has worked hard to build an international reputation of care, quality and innovation. The uniqueness of the Bobux brand is its kiwi-heritage, commitment to great classic styling and a desire to put kids foot health and comfort first is a pretty powerful combination. Ultimately, we’re a company built on family values and a shared sense of the adventure of childhood, and that’s what really resonates.” The brands’ philosophy is aligned with enabling young kids to adventure, to explore and to develop in a healthy way. Today, Bobux produces over 500 different shoe designs and delivers shoes to every corner of the globe. They proudly walk alongside young children, guiding their footsteps towards a bright future. “Bobux has been growing at ten times the market for the past four years, we would like to continue this and get great shoes to even more customers around the world,” said Andrew Sharp, CEO, Bobux. Designed in New Zealand, Bobux is manufactured in Indonesia and Vietnam by skilled craftspeople who use the highest-grade wools, leathers, knits and woven textiles. These high-quality materials make the Bobux range breathable, more flexible, more adjustable and more comfortable than any other material on offer. The brand sought out knitted and woven textiles that would have the same properties of strength and flexibility as the soft leathers used in their shoes, however, upon not finding any such thing they partnered with materials scientists at AUT University to develop their own. Every Bobux shoe is designed to perfectly complement the movement of childrens’ feet, approved by podiatrists and sold in one of five different stage ranges designed to meet children’s needs as they grow. “There are also some amazing new innovations that we have been working on that will come out over the next couple of years,” added Sharp. It hasn’t always been smooth sailing for the brand with curveballs and challenges, as in any business are thrown into the mix every so often. A few years ago, the brand faced an aesthetic issue with a particular product. “Functionally the shoe was fine, but it didn’t give the brand experience we promise to our customers. Short term, it was a very expensive exercise to remove the product from the market for us and for all of our retail partners, but protecting the brand and delivering on that promise was the right decision to make in the end,” said Sharp. The brand recently teamed up with baby knitwear
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brand, The Bonniemob, to create three Soft Sole styles that capture the brands’ shared values of craftsmanship, quality and excellent design. “The fun-loving style of The Bonniemob aligns perfectly with the Bobux Soft Sole aesthetic, so when they approached us for this collaboration, we were overjoyed,” said Sam Burton, Bobux head of design and innovation. “Like Bobux, The Bonniemob is founded on family values and a design ethos of letting kids be kids.” The designs reflect the themes of peace, love and pandas, as seen in the latest collection of The Bonniemob’s children’s knitwear, expressed atop the classic Bobux Soft Sole pattern. The result is a trio of adorable baby shoes that engage young imaginations, and comfort little feet while giving them full freedom of movement. “The collaboration was great because there is so much playfulness and quality of design in what they create, so it was a no-brainer to collaborate with the, and everyone learned so much through the process.” In designing ranges for Bobux, the experience of the child in the shoe is the most important and always front of mind when the team are making design decisions. “If the shoe is comfortable and the child loves it, we know we’re on the right track,” said Burton. “I think there are three main things that drive the design aesthetic for Bobux. The first one is, the experience. The second would be the influence of foot health on our design principles.” Bobux ensure that the anatomical shape of the last, the profile of the shoe soles and the fit of the upper create a silhouette that is quite consistent across the range. “Lastly, we focus on is the simplicity of the design. In general, we tend to have a more minimal approach to our designs that we know the mums love. This creates a constant battle with everything we produce to make it loveable enough for a child, but simple and considered enough that it will also fit in with our mum’s lives.” On occasion, Burton gets to see the fit testing in the office and the reaction from the kids, when the design
is just right, is a highlight. “It is definitely quite special to see the look on their faces. Having that reminder that we’re making stuff for kids is refreshing and keeps our work fun.” Bobux design their shoes based on the developmental stages of a child’s foot, catering to kids as they grow and develop to give them comfort, protection and freedom of movement. They start with Soft Soles for infants, the Xplorer range for kids who are crawling and cruising, Step Up for kids who are starting to walk, I-Walk for kids who are walking around confidently and finally the Bobux Kid+ range for kids who are walking, running and playing in a dynamic way. The brand is not only award-winning and a kiwi business, it also was one of the first shoe brands in the world to receive the child labour free certification, but more than that, every person who makes a Bobux shoe is a professional craftsperson who is paid a fair wage and provided with a healthy and safe working environment. For more information or to stock this incredible Kiwi brand, contact info@bobux.co.nz or visit www.bobux.com.
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designer showcase
ALÇA Growing up in Djibouti, East Africa, Emel Ahmed loved all forms of art from music, television and sculpting. Ahmed attended Temple University, Japan Campus and received her bachelor’s degree in Fine Arts. In her early childhood, Ahmed found herself struggling with body image which resulted in her learning how to create her own clothes from scratch. Adjusting to life in Japan inspired Ahmed to further explore her potential as a designer. Ahmed created the Tokyo based online brand ALÇA and is anticipating collaborations and events in Japan and East Africa to connect her current love for fashion with her traditional roots. “ALÇA means moon in Afar, one of the dialects of Djibouti. ALÇA represents the deep connection between the moon and femininity,” explained Ahmed. Drawing inspiration from Africa and Japanese culture, ALÇA is a unique brand which can be worn universally. For her collection at Vancouver Fashion Week, Ahmed showcased her collection as an introduction of herself. “I have always explored subjects like identity and spirituality. For this collection, I wanted to focus on the notion of randomness and the hidden order within it.” Ahmed called the collection RAW which stands for Random Always Wins. ALÇA aims to display fashion in a new and innovative way through asymmetric designs, opaque materials and intersecting lines on silk and chiffon ruffles. Ahmed displayed her pieces by showing the journey of her identities in order from when she experienced them. “The first piece that opened the story was made with traditional Afar fabric and the last piece showed a spiritual, evolved being which indicates where I currently am and intend to be.” ALÇA is currently releasing an exclusive prêtà-porter line made especially for women of all shapes and sizes to create further inclusivity in the industry. “The long-term goal is to expand and become worldwide.”
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Akoya Swim Vancouver based designer Olivia Bickerstaff trained in fashion design and technology at the Wilson School of Design, at Kwantlen Polytechnic University. Bickerstaff spent her summers in the Gulf Islands where she gained an appreciation for the ocean and learnt about the importance of sustainability. Establishing her brand AKOYA Swim, Bickerstaff’s aim was to create quality fitting swimwear for women of all shapes and sizes. “One thing most swimsuit brands are lacking is the quality support that majority of women need. I don’t want the suits to be flimsy, I want women to feel confident and chic while wearing our swimsuits, and for the swimsuits to be a quality long-lasting piece of clothing,” explained Bickerstaff. “I also care deeply about the ocean. We make sure our fabrics and
processes are ethical and sustainable. For example, the scrunchies we gave out at VFW were made from scrap fabric from our manufacturing process.” AKOYA was originally Bickerstaff’s graduation project and was officially launched in January 2019. Hoping to empower all women to feel beautiful in their swimwear, the AKOYA line includes a range of designs and styles that are tailor-made to flatter any body shape. “As a trained pattern drafter and sewer, I recognised a need for swimsuits that fit and flatter all women, and took it upon myself to meet these needs through AKOYA’s designs and range of styles.” The 24-year-old designer was inspired by the tiger cowrie seashell when creating her collection for Vancouver Fashion Week. With new bright, youthful and evolving colours that look and feel luxurious, this collection will empower all women to join
the summer festivities at the beach. “Comfort and confidence are always our number one inspiration at AKOYA; our suits are made to be supportive, worn, adventured in, loved and long lasting.” The size diversity that was showcased at Vancouver Fashion Week affected both the models on the runway and the people in the audience. “One of our lovely runway models expressed how happy she was to walk for AKOYA; it was her first opportunity to model swimwear because traditional swimwear brands do not fit her.” Showcasing sizes from XS to 2X, Bickerstaff believes she is making a difference in the fashion industry by enabling all women to wear stylish and supportive swimwear. Alongside her mission to empower women, AKOYA is driving consumerism towards sustainable swimwear and protecting the oceans.
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designer showcase
9597 Apparel Bret Stankowski and Stewart Schamp created 9597 Apparel in 2018 after a university trip to New York City with the Fashion Institute of Olds College. Both designers are in their early twenties and were born and raised in South East Calgary, Canada. Travelling to New York allowed Stankowski and Schamp to experience the immersive fashion culture in real life rather than in the media. “This opened our eyes to how under-established this industry is in Calgary. We had similar design ideas and together, created a strong team with a diverse skill-set,” said Stankowski. “We share common goals and started designing together, which soon evolved into a legitimate business.” The brand values the heritage of fine sewing techniques
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in their sample making process, which makes their collection feel handmade and exclusively tailored. Integrating fair trade into the business, the duo manufactures their designs in Canada with ethically sourced materials. “We heavily value strong customer service as we want each and every client to be pleased with their garment and experience,” they told Apparel magazine. “A sustainable future of fashion is part of our vision, so we base many of our decisions on what we believe are more environmentally friendly alternatives.” The innovative, trendy name 9597 Apparel combines the years that both designers were born. “We like how the four digits are open for interpretation to the consumer, 9597 could resemble anything from a barcode to a mugshot number.” The collection featured at Vancouver Fashion Week was inspired by classic but slimmed down menswear stemming from the early 1900s. Making their essential pieces unisex and accessible to all, the brand resonates with everyone and the current streetwear trends. The team confidently vouch for the quality of their garments that are exclusive to their brand and claim that no other Canadian brand carries the fits and silhouettes that they do. “The textiles and notions we use set us apart from other brands as they are quite luxurious for the price point. We are also almost entirely vertically integrated which is quite rare nowadays.”
J4502 Designer Jason Siu pieces are inspired by barcodes and serial numbers. Growing up in Vancouver, Canada, Siu attended Simon Fraser University and studied fashion design at Blanche Macdonald Institute. The introduction to design taught him how to create high quality pieces that value local production, quality materials and tailoring. “I believe in ethical and quality construction,” said Siu. “Our pieces are made by hand, not on a factory line. While some brands purchase the cheapest synthetics possible, I look for the most luxurious and unique natural textiles because quality lasts.” The value of high-quality materials which give a luxurious feel to the garments is important for the brand. Rather than fast producing masses of clothes, Siu insists on slow production and excellent condition when distributing his pieces. “People who understand the value of slow production, uniqueness, and craft appreciate the clothes I make.” The inspiration behind Siu’s collection at Vancouver Fashion Week stemmed from Beyonce and Jay Z’s music video for “Apesh*t” and the role of black people in Western art and civilization. “Blackness, especially in men, is associated with hypermasculine and sexual stereotypes,” explained Siu. By creating pieces that counteract these stereotypes and integrate sensuality and luxury, the pieces become wearable by everyone, despite gender norms. J4502 used a silk jacquard depicting chrysanthemum chinoiserie sourced from Hong Kong, in Japanese culture this material represents longevity and rejuvenation. The brand stands out in the market because its unique aesthetic intertwines luxury and streetwear and is high quality, versatile and stylish. The upcoming plans for J4502 are to display their pieces at New York Fashion Week and be introduced to retailers who would be willing to distribute the pieces.
Seyit Ares Born in Leverkusen, Germany, Seyit Ares discovered her love for fashion at the young age of 12 after viewing fashion icon, Karl Lagerfeld on the television for the first time. Ares received her diploma as a make-up artist and hair stylist and studied fashion design at the Fashion Design Institute in Dusseldorf. “My graduation in summer 2019 was followed by a successful show in Paris,” explained Ares. “In such a short period of time, I managed to attract worldwide attention through magazine publications, exhibitions and international shows.” When asked what she valued most in her practice, Ares expressed her passion for details and expressive accessories. “Especially the big belts that are used in almost all of my outfits. I combine round and pointy shapes, use different fabrics and mix them with leather and different metal elements.” The twenty-eight-year-old designer selftitled her brand as her name holds a lot of significance to her designs. “The first name Seyit is my birth name and has its roots from Turkey. My last name Ares is the name of a Greek god, from which I want to represent the strength and independence in my brand.” Going into business for herself after she completed her studies shows her drive and ambition, which is ultimately expressed in her
pieces as well. “The name should also motivate people to throw away their fear of dressing up and start wearing what they want without thinking about what other people’s opinions might be.” The positive affirmation that comes with Ares’ collection not only encourages consumers to feel confident in their clothing but also feel confident within themselves. The inspiration from her Vancouver Fashion Week show came from “Barbie SM” and the current obsession with plastic surgery. Ares explained that people are obsessed with the idea of looking perfect and flawless. “They are so focused on looking impeccable on the outside that they don’t pay attention for what is on the inside. Therefore, society is perceived as superficial.” Barbie SM mirrors today’s society and the obsession with cosmetic surgery, however, the pursuit of perfection is the fatal flaw in the end. The collection integrates a balance of elegance and sex appeal and focuses on the female body. Ares ensures all her designs are wearable by any gender that wants to express their strength, independence and confidence. “I use mostly leather in vibrant colours and sew in big and edgy shapes. I love extraordinary things with the desire to put the client into the spotlight.”
Doctor Sleep Forty years after The Shining, Doctor Sleep focuses on Danny Torrance, who is still traumatised from from his chilling experience at the Overlook Hotel. The film follows Torrance facing his trauma, finding peace and losing it again after meeting
teenager, Abra. After realising the two of them share the same powers, Torrance and Abra form an alliance to face their fears together. Doctor Sleep’s dark ambience, intense camera work and character development will not disappoint.
Ready Or Not Costume designer Avery Plewes created an iconic gown inspired by Alexander McQueen for Ready Or Not. Directed by Matt BettinelliOlpin and Tyler Gillett, the comedy/ horror film features the newlywed Grace, who is instructed to hide from her husband’s parents while they hunt her with weapons as part of a wedding ritual. Her wedding dress gained attention as it is not just a
dress but also a murder weapon, a first aid kit and a tracking device. “It has a full arc and evolution,” said Plewes. “I equate the dress to Bruce Willis’ tank top in Die Hard.” The dress is individual pieces combined. “It’s a lace shirt, a corset, a sash, lining and an overskirt.” The dress signifies Grace’s strength, femininity and status as a newly married woman.
Dora And The Lost City Of Gold Childhood favourite Dora the Explorer has been made into a new live-action film. Dora And The Lost City of Gold is filled with action, adventure and comedy. Although it is based on the TV show, the film is geared towards an older audience who can understand the comedic aspects of Dora’s character and the kind of person she would be if she was real. Mexican actor Eugenio Derbez a wide range of Latino actors to play the iconic roles of Diego, Swiper and Dora’s parents.
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Isabela Moner plays the role of Dora and does so brilliantly. The portrayal of a young Latina actress who is brave and fearless encourages young people in the Latin community to celebrate their culture and feel represented in the media. Costume designer, Rahel Afiley, dressed Moner in the typical Dora outfit, a pink shirt, orange shorts and a purple backpack, with the famous bob hairstyle, the cartoon and live action are pretty much identical. Suitable for adults and children, Dora And The Lost City of Gold will leave you laughing and feeling nostalgic.
The Addams Family The newly animated film directed by Conrad Vernon and Greg Tiernan, The Addams Family, took inspiration from the original film from 1991. Costume designer Ruth Myers created the original, legendary costumes for the iconic characters that are still used as Halloween costumes today. The animation plays tribute to the original film through its plot, special effects and
underlying themes. With a fun twist on the appearance of the characters the costumes remain somewhat identical. From Gomez’ suit to Morticia’s plunging neckline, if you grew up with the Addams family, this rendition is not one to miss.
Ford v Ferrari James Mangold is best known for directing films like Logan, Cop Land, Interrupted and now Ford v Ferrari. Starring Matt Damon and Christian Bale, Ford v Ferrari is based on the
extraordinary true story of American car designer Carroll Shelby and British racecar driver Ken Miles. The two collaborate to build a racecar for Ford Motor Company and race alongside the Enzo Ferrari racecars. The action-packed, exciting film cast costume designer Daniel Orlandi to steer the film towards success. Upon reading the script, Orlandi found himself emotional over the relationship between Shelby and Miles. “It’s about friendship, loyalty and teamwork,” said Orlandi. Orlandi was able to successfully bring both characters out through their clothing choices. “Carroll Shelby is more of a showman… He’s a Texan, so he has his cowboy boots.” Whereas Miles’ style takes a different approach. “He’s a mechanic and a family man. His clothes are worn.” Orlandi’s impressive choice of costume gives the audience a real life idea of what it was like to be a racecar driver back in 1966.
Portrait Of A Lady On Fire The French film, Portrait of a Lady on Fire set in 1770 shows how the daughter of a French countess falls for the female artist that is commissioned to paint the portrait for her wedding. Exquisitely directed by Celine Sciamma and costume designed by Dorothee Guirade, the film
elegantly represents a queer relationship from an earlier time in history. With both women dressed in a uniform throughout the film, the audience can see how the complexions of their skin change as their friendship becomes romantic.
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edited
The 13 products to avoid discounting this Black Friday…and the 9 to slash!
We breakdown the biggest trends from last year and lay out what retailers should (and shouldn’t) be marking down. You've spent months feverishly working to lock and load your discount strategy for Black Friday. However, there is still time for last-minute tweaks to save your margins from any unnecessary damage. We breakdown the biggest Black Friday trends to come out of last year and layout what retailers should (and shouldn’t) be marking down. Right now, you should be making sure any items such as recent hot sellers (sheer puff sleeves, we're looking at you) aren't lined up for 60 percent reductions over Black Friday weekend, as well as monitoring the shifts your competitors are making. The success of the first two-day Amazon Prime event and the ever-growing environmental concerns associated with massive sales periods adds to the uncertainty surrounding the state of Black Friday.
WHAT DATA IS TELLING US ABOUT THE US MARKET
STRATEGISE TO AVOID RETURNS
Analysing your competitor's assortment breakdown can help reveal the categories with the potential for reduction over the holidays. In the US mass market, accessories make up 29 percent of items currently available online, and last year were responsible for 23 percent of discounts. Products without a wide size range (such as handbags, jewelry, scarves, gloves and hair accessories) that sit under this umbrella are ideal for reducing to minimise returns during the sale period. With return rates estimated to cost ecommerce businesses $550 billion by 2020, retailers are pulling back on their categories with more complicated sizing as sales approach. Currently, there are 18 percent and 14 percent fewer footwear and bottoms products available compared to last year, respectively.
AND THE UK Meanwhile in the UK mass market, which has been slower to join the Black Friday hype, there is five percent more products available now than last October, but new arrivals are flat YoY. The UK is approaching Black Friday discounts with a lot more caution this year. The number of products receiving their first markdown in October is down 26 percent YoY. However, the amount of products experiencing sell out is down too, by 33 percent to be exact. This drop suggests the UK customer isn't as willing to purchase full price during this month, knowing the big savings are just around the corner.
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Menswear • • • • • • •
Mustard yellow Hoodies Corduroy Checked trousers Velvet blazers Roll/turtle neck sweaters Textured knitwear
Womenswear • Animal print • Printed midi and modest dresses • Oversized tees and hoodies • Puff sleeves • Cardigans • Puffer jackets • Leather
PRIME FOR REDUCTION
HOW MUCH TO REDUCE BY? In October, there are two percent less products discounted for the first time compared to the same time in 2018. The market is still recovering from a discount-laden Q3 driven by mid-season sales and Amazon Prime offers, causing first reductions to spike 16 percent compared to Q3 2018. Additionally, new product arrivals have decreased by 14 percent over the past six weeks compared to the previous as retailers pull back on deliveries to make way for impending markdowns, which resulted in a four percent uptick in sell outs.
AVOID REDUCING
So far in the US, the most popular first discount advertised is 20-30 percent off, representing 28 percent of discounted mens and womenswear products. This discounting bracket is on par with last October. However, the 40-50 percent and 50-60 percent range is stronger this year, making up 21 percent and 11 percent of first discounts (compared to 17 percent and seven percent in 2018), respectively. Showcasing how retailers are discounting deeper, earlier. Retailers are currently moving away from the smaller percentages, with the number of products in the 10-20 percent threshold halved compared to last year. Our advice is to pay attention to the products which don't need a huge price drop to sell through. According to EDITED data on Black Friday 2018, items with a discount under 30 percent had just as many sellouts as those between 40-60 percent, proving retailers don't need to destroy margins to shift stock. Remember, Black Friday is an opportunity to clear older pieces ahead of the peak Christmas period and ring in the new year with a fresh assortment. We can already see rapid sell out (and not just for sneakers!), at full price on these products.
Menswear • Chinos: The casual style made up 40 percent of reduced trousers in the US market alone. • Oxford loafers: as workwear becomes relaxed, sneakers have become the footwear of choice in the office. • Anoraks: It's time for outerwear to shine; however, the anorak has fallen out of favour, particularly in the UK market. Arrivals in this region have significantly dropped in favour of fleece or trucker jackets. • Neon: in both regions combined, neon menswear arrivals declined 19 percent MoM as the cold weather kicked in. Womenswear • One-shoulder dresses: In Q3, arrivals in this silhouette dropped 64 percent in the US compared to Q2 as puff sleeves and square necks held court. • Pencil skirts: Another traditional workwear style to think about phasing out. Midi and pleated styles are stronger trends. • Cami tops: This style has seen a drop within the UK market in particular, where 70 percent of options are currently reduced. • Bodycon/bandage dresses: Thanks to the new wave of feminism, wider silhouettes continue to trend on the runway and in retail, while the bodycon continues to decline. • Sandals: Making up 30 percent of footwear styles reduced over 20 percent in the US market. Use this holiday as an opportunity to churn through old summer stock.
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