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OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2023 I VOL 56 I NO 4
editor's note
Navigating the Storm
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n the labyrinth of today's fashion retail, a siren song echoes through the aisles and online storefronts – the lure of endof-year sales. Black Friday no longer remains just on Friday; I saw sales blast into my emails from at least ten days before. Then we have Cyber Monday, extending the chaos, and then we're hot onto Christmas sales. It's a phenomenon that is reshaping our retail landscape. Where slashed prices and eye-catching discounts are no longer the exception but the norm. This relentless pursuit of immediate sales, however, casts a long shadow over the future of our industry. For consumers, the appeal is undeniable. In an era marked by economic uncertainty, the promise of low prices is enticing. Retailers, caught in a whirlwind of competition, find solace in the short-term gains these sales provide. Cash registers ring, and inventory moves, but at what cost? Scratch beneath the surface, and the glimmer of these mega sales dims. The constant cycle of discounts
risks devaluing the very essence of our brands. When a new collection is perpetually on sale, the perceived value and quality of our products wane in the eyes of the consumer. This is not just about numbers on a price tag; it's about the intrinsic worth of our creations. Consumers are also more wary of being tricked. There is a website that tracks Amazon's pricing all year round. It found that Amazon raised their prices three months before Black Friday and then made discounted the prices for Black Friday back down to its prior RRP. Creating a false reality of "a good deal". This was also seen at Target in America where they reprinted their normal sale prices onto new paper that said "Black Friday Deal". Unfortunately, the staff lazily put the new paper on top of the old paper, so consumers quickly saw that their "Black Friday Deal" was no longer special. The New Zealand market is oversaturated with discounts, which can lead to consumer fatigue. The special event that a sale once was has now faded into a mundane, expected
behind APPAREL... PUBLISHER GENERAL MANAGER EDITOR MARKETING MANAGER CONTENT MANAGERS
Tania Walters Kieran Mitchell Caitlan Mitchell Sarah Mitchell Caroline Boe Findlay Murray
GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM
Raymund Sarmiento Raymund Santos
2 I October/November 2023
ISSN 1171-2287 (Print) ISSN 2744-5976 (Online) Retail 6, 2 Ruskin Street, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 304 0142 Email: edit@reviewmags.com This magazine is published monthly under license. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to Review Publishing Co Ltd. This magazine is a platform for the industry and may include content that expresses views and opinions by contributing writers. Content is attributed to the author, and these opinions and the view/s are those of the author/s. They do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of any other agency, organisation, employer or company. The opinions and material published in this edition are not necessarily those of the publishers unless expressly stated. All material appearing in the magazine, website and social media platforms is copyright and may only be reproduced with the written consent of the publisher. Copyright 2023
occurrence, stripping the excitement and exclusivity from our marketing arsenals. I asked around 50 people what they were planning on buying during Black Friday or if they had already purchased something and over 90 percent of their replies where they weren't interested in buying anything. Saving money was a top pr The financial repercussions are profound for small businesses. While turnover may see a temporary spike, profit margins suffer. Continuous discounting is a slippery slope, leading to a precarious financial position for many retailers, large and small. Don't be a brand that succumbed to the continuous discounting game. Your persistent sales undermine not only your brand prestige but profitability. All is not lost. The industry stands at a crossroads, and the path to sustainability is clear. We must shift our focus from relentless discounting to building brand loyalty and customer relationships. Emphasising quality, exclusivity, and the story behind our products can rekindle the intrinsic value lost in the discount deluge. Innovation must be at the forefront of our strategy. Rethinking product development, enhancing customer experiences, and optimising supply chains can create value beyond the price tag. Some business models that prioritise long-term brand health over shortterm gains have offered an alternative this Black Friday. Like a recycling programme, buy-back scheme or added value with a full-price purchase. We must collectively rethink our approach, balancing immediate needs with long-term visions. The current climate is not just a hurdle but an opportunity for innovation and reinvention. Our fashion industry, resilient and creative at its core, has the potential to emerge stronger. We can weather this storm by embracing change and redefining our value proposition.
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fast five
MAAIKE IS CLOSING ITS DOORS After almost 14 years, kiwi label Maaike is closing its doors in four months. The duo, Emilie and Abby, released a newsletter this morning with the news as well as a video online (see below). "We are so lucky to have such a stable business in these tricky times, but we are both just truly ready for new challenges." In the next few months they have a few exciting capsule ranges with new fabric prints and shapes being released. They will continue to work on custom pieces as usual.
AIR NEW ZEALAND ANNOUNCE NEW UNIFORM DESIGNER Air New Zealand has officially revealed globally renowned Kiwi fashion designer Emilia Wickstead as the brand's next uniform designer. The New Zealand designer has made a name for herself on the world stage, designing clothing for global figures and A-listers alike. Her next project will be creating New Zealand’s most recognisable uniform. Air New Zealand Chief Customer and Sales Officer Leanne Geraghty said Wickstead stood out after the selection panel was blown away by her concepts. “Emilia presented outstanding initial designs that were creative, and unique, and will set Air New Zealand apart on the global stage. She also demonstrated her understanding of the importance in creating a uniform that is both functional and comfortable for our people.” READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE
AUCKLAND ART GALLERY'S GUO PEI EXHIBITION THIS SUMMER Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tāmaki is exhibiting the work of couture designer Guo Pei next month. With over 60 of Guo Pei’s creations, the exhibition will showcase Pei’s most innovative pieces from 2005 to 2020. “This exhibition celebrates one of the world’s most renowned couturiers. Guo Pei’s extravagant ensembles are works of art, incorporating extraordinary fabrics and exquisite embroidery, and capturing influences from across the world,” said Tātaki Auckland Unlimited, Director of Auckland Art Gallery Kirsten Lacy. “Each piece has been created with intricate skill and precision, representing thousands of hours of dedication and remarkable artistry.” Inspired by elements of nature, mythology, and Eurasian traditions, the exhibition will take viewers through a journey of fantasy and magic. READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE
4 I October/November 2023
ID MOVES TO A BIENNIAL FORMAT
BINTANG MODELS CELEBRATE TEN YEARS
Fashion lover’s favourite, iD, has just announced that their much-loved show at the Dunedin Railway Station will move to a biennial format. Since an event of this scale is tough to pull together in a year, moving to a biennial event provides more time to plan and secure funding and promotions. “We are always looking at ways of improving the iD offering, and we believe that a longer lead-in will enable us to produce a quality event for our followers that is bigger and better than before,” said Margo Barton, cochair of iD. READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE
New Zealand fashion agency Bintang Models has celebrated its tenth anniversary with a fashion show in Auckland. Hosted at the Pullman Hotel, the event showcased the latest collections from Elusive Lingerie, Dorset Suits, and Kharl Wirepa Fashion. Elusive Lingerie made a lasting impression at the event but Dorset Suits took center stage with their premium-quality suits for men and women. Kharl Wirepa Fashion added an air of glamour and sophistication to the show. READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE
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footnotes
MCDONALD'S X CROCS COLLABORATION ARRIVES IN NEW ZEALAND McDonald’s and Crocs fans are about to elevate their look courtesy of McDonald’s x Crocs first-ever collab in New Zealand. The brand mashup is inspired by both Crocs Stars and Macca’s loyalists and will drop with a full line of shoes and Jibbitz charms beginning 8th November in more than 30 countries around the world, including New Zealand. From a Classic Clog with a McDonald’s spin to a throwback, limited-edition collection inspired by iconic McDonald’s characters – Grimace, Birdie and Hamburglar – the new shoes are designed to give consumers a way to live out their unapologetically bold fandom every day. The Crocs are being sold in New Zealand exclusively through Platypus and an in-restaurant pop-up store. READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE
SPEAKERS OF WORLD FOOTWEAR CONGRESS REVEALED The 2023 World Footwear Congress is coming soon and the speaker lineup for the same has now been announced. As they debate new business solutions, and discuss the concepts of sustainability and circularity and the future of labour, the event serves as a global stage for the footwear industry. Miguel Pomares, Head of the Footwear Division at Spanish company Ecoalf since 2017, will bring his 20 years of experience in footwear and innovation, while Yuxiang Yang, an innovator from the Li-Ning brand talks about driving innovation in the sports footwear industry. READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE
EXPO RIVA SCHUH & GARDABAGS OPEN START-UP COMPETITION APPLICATIONS Expo Riva Schuh & Gardabags, the leading international trade show dedicated to volume footwear and accessories, has opened applications for its new start-up competition. A selection committee will identify the award finalists from start-ups who apply. Award finalists will have the chance to become part of the Innovation Village for two years. Expo Riva Schuh Innovation Village Retail, a project within the trade show dedicated to start-ups and innovation, provides a unique opportunity for start-ups to present their products at the largest international event in the footwear sector. READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE
6 I October/November 2023
retail eye
DEADLY PONIES PONSONBY POP-UP Deadly Ponies has opened a brand new pop-up store on Ponsonby Road. The store is exclusively stocking Deadly Ponies’ artisanally crafted, ethically sourced leather footwear, and will only be open for a limited time preChristmas.
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orn from the desire to showcase the craftsmanship and innovation that has gone into creating the collection, the pop-up store offers customers a unique immersive experience to explore the brand's footwear range. The Ponsonby location was chosen due to its proximity to Deadly Ponies' existing boutique, and the vibrancy the area exudes. “We felt it aligned well with our brand's aesthetic and provided a great platform to introduce our footwear collection to a wider audience,” said Liam Bowden, Deadly Ponies Founder and Creative Director. The pop-up store is a unique addition to the brand’s retail experience as it exclusively focuses on the footwear
collection and offers a more in-depth and specialised experience than Deadly Ponies’ permanent boutiques. The pop-up store will feature limitededition footwear items that will be pre-released through the pop-up. These pieces are designed to be unique collector’s items, adding excitement for existing and new customers. “We want people to have a memorable and immersive experience that highlights the uniqueness of our designs and a sense of connection to our brand and to leave with a pair of shoes that resonates with their personal style and needs,” said Bowden Bowden hopes visitors to the store will leave with an appreciation of the artistry and quality that goes into creating the footwear.
garmentcare
RELOVE, REPAIR & RECYCLE
Vanish has lifted the lid on New Zealanders’ clothing and textile recycling habits.
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ousehold laundry brand Vanish has released new research, revealing a shocking one in four New Zealanders throws their unwanted clothes in the rubbish bin, and 23 percent don’t see anything wrong with it. Released in line with Second Hand September, the nationwide study aims to lift the lid on New Zealanders’ clothing and textile recycling habits. It follows a recent report that discovered around 220,000 tonnes of clothing and textile waste ends up in landfills annually in New Zealand - a fact that nearly a third (31 percent) of participants in the Vanish study claimed they were only a little concerned about, or not concerned about at all. The study found that New Zealanders are getting rid of clothing nearly as quickly as we are acquiring new items, highlighting our ingrained fast-fashion habits. Over half the population (56 percent) discard clothing at least once every season, and 14 percent do so every three to four weeks. Simply, according to 85 percent of us, because we ‘no longer like them’. Auckland residents were the greatest purgers of pre-loved garments, dispensing clothing items an average
8 I October/November 2023
of eight times per year - far higher than Wellington and Christchurch dwellers, with both recording five times a year, on average. Additionally, women dispose of clothing more frequently than men, though they were more likely to sell, donate or exchange them - whereas men were more likely to opt for the rubbish bin. Sixty percent of Kiwis said they donate unwanted clothing to charity, family or friends over other less sustainable options. An action that initiatives like Second Hand September hope to encourage more people to get on board with. Second Hand September, an annual initiative coined by charity Oxfam, aims to inspire people to buy only preloved clothing for 30 days or more, with the hope of changing attitudes and behaviours around fast fashion and easing the impact of the clothing industry on our environment. “At Vanish, we want to support sustainability-focused initiatives like Second Hand September that help to shine a light on the issue of fashion waste. We are committed to promoting more environmentally friendly practices and helping people to prolong the life of their clothing,” said Rachel Bainbridge,
Head of Brand and Trade Marketing for Reckitt Hygiene. Vanish is also a partner of Dress For Success. This not-for-profit organisation aims to empower women to achieve economic independence by providing a network of support, including the supply of professional attire acquired via donations of quality preloved garments by the public. Under the partnership, Vanish provides complementary products for Dress for Success clients to help them look after and extend the lifespan of
We are committed to promoting more environmentally friendly practices and helping people to prolong the life of their clothing,
their garments. In its study, business clothing was disposed of after just ten wears; interestingly, stains in clothing are a significant factor in clothing disposal decisions. Eighty-four percent of respondents reported removing items due to stubborn stains they could not remove. A problem that Vanish is well-placed to help solve. Casual wear was found to escape the wardrobe cull for longer than business or party wear, with jeans taking the top spot and surviving a lifespan of 52 wears on average before being banished.
“The research has been very enlightening and is just another step in our efforts to help the community think about our environment. We hope it may catalyse others to think and act more sustainably, where possible, for the planet's good.” Vanish is on a mission to help clothes live many lives, from loving them for longer with great care and products to ensuring pre-loved garments get a second chance at life. For more information on Vanish, visit www.vanish.co.nz.
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denim
EMBRACING FREEDOM: THE RISE OF FREDDY IN THE FASHION WORLD In the dynamic realm of fashion, where trends evolve and styles change in the blink of an eye, one brand has managed to captivate the hearts of fashion enthusiasts worldwide—Freddy. With a commitment to innovation, quality, and a touch of rebellion, Freddy has carved a unique niche in the fashion landscape.
10 I October/November 2023
With a commitment to innovation, inclusivity, and empowerment, the brand continues to redefine the boundaries of what is possible in the realm of style.
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ounded with a rebellious spirit, Freddy emerged on the fashion scene with a mission to break free from traditional norms. The brand's journey began with a vision to blend comfort and style seamlessly, creating a distinctive identity that resonated with a generation unafraid to embrace individuality. What sets Freddy apart is its relentless pursuit of innovation, especially in the realm of technologyinfused fashion. The brand introduced the world to WR.UP technology, a revolutionary design that enhances the natural curves of the body, providing a
flawless fit and unparalleled comfort. This groundbreaking technology has become synonymous with the Freddy brand, setting a new standard in the world of fashion. The Iconic WR.UP Pants: At the heart of Freddy's success lies its iconic WR.UP pants, a true game-changer in the world of women's fashion. These pants are more than just clothing; they are a statement of confidence and empowerment. The unique shaping effect of the WR.UP pants accentuates the silhouette, giving wearers the freedom to embrace their curves with pride. Whether it's a casual day out or a night on the town, Freddy's WR.UP pants have become a must-have in the wardrobes of fashion-forward individuals. Freddy's commitment to versatility is evident in its diverse range of collections. From activewear that seamlessly transitions from the gym to the streets to chic and stylish pieces perfect for a night out, Freddy caters to the modern, multifaceted lifestyle of its clientele. The brand's ability to fuse fashion and function has earned it a dedicated following that span across various demographics. Freddy's influence extends beyond the fashion realm, as the brand actively
collaborates with influencers, artists, and creatives from different industries. These collaborations not only showcase the brand's adaptability but also contribute to its cultural relevance. Freddy has become a symbol of selfexpression, a canvas for individuals to paint their unique stories. In an era where sustainability is paramount, Freddy has taken strides to minimise its environmental impact. The brand is committed to responsible sourcing, ethical production practices, and the use of eco-friendly materials. By aligning itself with social and environmental causes, Freddy ensures that fashion can be both conscious and captivating. Freddy has emerged as a force to be reckoned with in the ever-evolving world of fashion. With a commitment to innovation, inclusivity, and empowerment, the brand continues to redefine the boundaries of what is possible in the realm of style. Freddy is not just a fashion brand; it's a movement—a celebration of individuality, freedom, and the unapologetic pursuit of one's unique style. As fashion continues to evolve, Freddy stands as a beacon of creativity, encouraging us all to embrace the freedom to be ourselves.
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denim
KENZO X LEVI'S FALL CAPSULE COLLECTION
KENZO and Levi’s have joined forces to create a Fall 2023 capsule collection. The collection marks the first collaboration under Nigo at KENZO and fuses the cultural heritages of the Parisian-Japanese fashion house and the American apparel company.
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he denim-focused collection exemplifies the ongoing mix of historical Japanese dressmaking with classic American workwear. The 20-piece collection is composed of garments and accessories crafted mainly in Kaihara premium Japanese denim. Pieces in the KENZO x Levi’s capsule collection are branded with a marque uniting the classic Levi Strauss & Co. two horse pull logo with the KENZO logo. Back pockets feature the iconic Levi’s arcuate stitching whilst embroidered KENZO logos appear above pockets as a nod to the chain-stitched name badges found on factory worker uniforms in the early 20th century. The collection’s gender-inclusive outerwear includes a denim jacket with a detachable faux fur collar, and a denim fringe jacket with Western yokes, both inspired by 1980s archival pieces from
the KENZO JUNGLE line. The Levi’s Type II Trucker Jacket from 1967 has been reimagined in red satin with a Boke flower and Western details. A gender-inclusive denim shirt features chain-stitch and sawtooth pocket detailing. Sleeveless buttondown denim dresses inspired by Kenzo Takada pieces from the 80s can be worn as layering elements and feature in a dark blue or the KENZO JEANS floral print. Dungarees reminiscent of the original Levi’s archetype appear in both a dark indigo rinse and the trompe l’oeil Sashiko print. Gender-inclusive Levi’s 501 Jeans include a vintage-washed denim interpretation hand-distressed in Japan and a rinse indigo adaptation with leather and denim suspenders. The collection is tied together with accessories that complement the collection’s conversation between workwear and tailoring. Accessories
include a denim tie, denim cardholder, and a red Western bandana The capsule collection epitomises the real-to-wear functionality key to Nigo’s KENZO approach. An avid collector of historical clothing, the designer’s archives in Japan hold a considerable catalogue of American denim pieces including original Levi Strauss & Co. workwear created for cowboys and miners. His passion for denim is reflected in the legacy of Kenzo Takada whose interest in denim inspired him to launch the KENZO JEANS line in 1986. The East-meets-West philosophy at the heart of KENZO x Levi's was framed by a campaign shot in Kyoto. Nigo invited Japanese filmmaker Umi Ishihara to capture the collection in cinematic moving imagery filmed in two traditional sansou mountain villas in Kyoto. The locations play host to a series of still images photographed by Inner Mongolian photographer Rya Ika.
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denim
STUSSY X LEVI'S
Levi's has announced yet another collaboration this year, this time with Stussy, a label that has organically grown from youth movements and revolutionised the clothing business.
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aying homage to their home state of California, Stussy and Levi's new capsule collection brings Stussy's signature design aesthetic to staple Levi's garments. The collection includes a range of trucker jackets and jeans in three colours: black, brown, and pink. These two-tone pieces are crafted from jacquard fabric, giving a one-of-akind washed vintage feel. Stussy and Levi's collection launched on Friday, the 10th of November and is available for purchase online and in stores.
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denim
R.M. WILLIAMS' CRAFTED TO BE WORN COLLECTION R.M. Williams has just launched a new denim collection called ‘Crafted To Be Worn’ for daily adventures. The campaign stars sculptor Dion Horstmans, designer and former ballet dancer Vivienne Wong and musician Don West.
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ith an iconic denim legacy since 1932, the brand’s collection includes workwearinspired jackets, shirts for layering, tailored skirts and their signature fivepocket denim jeans. While there is a return of the brand’s favourite shapes, like the Ramco and Loxton jeans, new silhouettes are also introduced, focusing on quality and fit. Although premium denim has been sourced from Italy and Japan, the brand has tried to show its commitment to the locals by sourcing and producing certain pieces in Australia, aligning with its ‘crafting a better future’ strategy. This latest collection is now available at R.M. Williams in stores and online.
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on trend
UJOH
AMPLIFIE n the lush landscape of spring fashion, the floral print has once again taken root, but this season’s bloom has evolved slightly beyond its traditional borders. Designers around the world are nurturing this trend by scaling it up – with oversized prints and embroidery that command the eye and invite the onlooker into a bold, new garden of design. This is not merely a visual update; it’s a powerful statement of resurgence, a larger-than-life affirmation of life and creativity in the wake of challenging times. The floral's enduring appeal lies in its provenance – a traditional, sellable item that holds a steadfast place in consumer wardrobes. In the current climate of our industry, the commercial viability of florals is more relevant than ever. It’s a familiar print that provides a sense of comfort and nostalgia. The oversized floral is a testament to the fashion industry's ability to innovate within the realm of the familiar. For retail buyers and designers, it presents a dual opportunity: to strike a chord with those craving novelty and to offer
reassurance to the more conservative spender. The amplified floral is a beacon of optimism, signalling that in the interplay between the audacious and the understated, there’s a sweet spot where both can coexist and flourish. As the New Zealand retail landscape contends with cautious consumerism, the strategic embrace of florals is akin to cultivating a garden in well-tended soil. It’s a choice that celebrates the roots of fashion while allowing new blossoms to flourish. Retailers and designers are thus invited to weave these oversized patterns into their collections, balancing the scale of their designs with the commercial weight they carry. This spring, let the flowers grow wild and magnified – a reflection of our collective desire for beauty on a grand scale and a reminder that sometimes, the best way to move forward is to take what is already beloved and simply let it bloom larger. In the rich tapestry of fashion, the floral pattern remains an unwavering stitch, a connector of past and future, a commercial and cultural staple that, even when blown up to grand proportions, proves that indeed, bigger can be better.
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retail eye
BALLANTYNES EXPANDS RETAIL PRESENCE IN INVERCARGILL Ballantynes has announced the opening of its fourth retail store in New Zealand, in Invercargill CBD.
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alled Ballantynes Select, the premium retail store will have a curated selection of fashion, accessories, and gifts from its flagship Christchurch store and other local and international anchor brands including RM Williams, Superdry, and Saben. “We are delighted to finally bring the essence of Ballantynes to our southernmost city, and to be part of this bustling redevelopment,” said Ballantynes chief executive Maria O’Halloran. Customers in Invercargill have been requesting a store for some time, with many traveling to the Canterbury stores for decades, so the company feels like it is time to finally make it happen.
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“The concept for Ballantynes Select is a ‘best of the best’ model, giving our Southland customers the Ballantynes experience within a more modest retail footprint.” Ballantynes will also add to the development of the Invercargill central business district. “We are delighted that Ballantynes has chosen Invercargill Central as its Southland home, further adding to the heart of this vibrant shopping and dining destination. We look forward to welcoming them next year, and getting that Ballantynes Select signup as soon as we can,” said Invercargill businessman Scott O’Donnell. The store is set to open by March 2024, with recruitment for five key roles beginning this month. Ballantynes has also signed a franchise agreement with British fashion brand, Seasalt Cornwall, which opened its first international store on Auckland’s North Shore in October, following a 10-year wholesale distribution relationship.
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accessory alert
MAHY
Armed with a collection of second-hand leather jackets, a sewing machine, and a vision, Emily Mahy crafted her first leather handbag on her kitchen table in 2011. Under the label Go Ask Alice, Mahy grew her business and expanded her range.
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fter almost a decade in the industry, Mahy made the decision to revisit her branding to better align it with her values and purpose. The connection Mahy has to her craft runs deep, and led to the decision to rebrand as MAHY. MAHY handbags are designed with functionality and longevity from handpicked hides sourced from local suppliers. Each MAHY handbag is handcrafted with a focus on slow, considered fashion with each design inspired by influential female figures in history. The MAHY SS23 collection is inspired
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by photographer Guy Bourdin, who is known for his stylised and provocative images. The collection is bold and colourful, with hyper-realism, cropped compositions, and colour saturation key themes throughout. “Think fake grass, vivid pastels, block colour, playful surrealism. I wanted this collection to be bold and lively but also playful and light-hearted,” said Mahy. The collection is made from a corrected grain leather in a lively colour palette. The even and consistent finish emphasises the hyper-real theme more than organic raw leather would. New to the SS23 collection is the use of the black and
Being a slow fashion business, sustainability lies at the heart of the operation.
gold logo label which adds contrast to the designs. While black and muted colours have featured heavily in previous collections, the MAHY SS23 collection offers a brand new range of colour and style options that add a touch of playfulness to outfits whilst seamlessly fitting a number of different aesthetics. “I have noticed my customers being more experimental with colour and less inclined to go with the default black handbag. So I’ve reflected this shift in the colourful hues of this collection.” Being a slow fashion business, sustainability lies at the heart of the
operation. The bags are crafted in house at the MAHY workshop in Onehunga, using materials from local suppliers. A focus for the SS23 collection has been on packaging. MAHY forgoes the use of plastic to champion sustainable and recyclable packaging options. Mahy cherishes the designs she makes, from conception to completion, but believes the Nina crossbody is the standout design from the SS23 collection. Based on the popular Janis bag, Nina fills the gap of a medium sized bag with a timeless elegance. For more information or to become a stockist, email emily@mahy.co.nz or visit www.mahy.co.nz.
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beauty spot
ALEPH BEAUTY
Emma Peters, founder and CEO of Aleph Beauty, was a professional makeup artist working in the industry for the better part of three decades, working in various industries such as film, fashion, television, advertising and everything in between.
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n conjunction with her passion for beauty, Peters is interested in health and wellness. During her time as a makeup artist, she was disappointed with the products she was using as they didn't align with her values of caring for people and the planet and being animal-friendly. "In creating Aleph Beauty, I wanted something that reflected my values while performing to the highest standards," said Peters. People, planet, and animal-friendly are central to Aleph Beauty's ethos and can influence every aspect of the business, with decisions that are actively made with these values in mind. "We are passionate about inspiring people to make conscious choices and believe that sustainability should be the new norm."
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Aleph Beauty was created to empower creativity and confidence in wearers while simultaneously being efficient and easy to use and aligned with Peters' values for making conscious lifestyle choices. The brand allows the consumer to own less and waste less, bringing minimalism into a beauty world that is often overwhelming. Peters is inspired by nature, filtering this inspiration into her products, with Aleph Beauty's cheek and lip tint shade mimicking that of a freshly bitten lip, pinched cheek, and blood flushed under the skin as it's illuminated by the sun. The range is designed to be universally flattering, hitting the sweet spot between warm and cool to suit most people. Aleph Beauty is highly customisable to
cater to varying consumer tastes. Every product is crafted harmoniously to work together to create endless textures, shades, and finishes. "It is alchemy at your fingertips. Aleph is redefining beauty and giving consumers a no-compromise choice regarding makeup and skincare." All products are sustainable and proudly cruelty-free. Peters' proudest achievement has been growing an extensive business, which by necessity encompasses everything from product development to marketing distribution from the ground up to the five-year mark. Moving forward, Peters hopes to continue to expand beyond New Zealand and share the cleanest, most conscious makeup with the rest of the world.
in detail
RUBY RESORT
Inspired by the hope of a great summer, RUBY Resort 2023 was born following a holiday Creative Director Deanna Didovich took in Italy and Croatia earlier this year.
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he collection came together like a jigsaw puzzle, with each piece inspiring the next. Built around the iconic Jaquetta Poppy print, the Resort collection’s colour palette is centred on pinks and oranges, and balanced with cornflower blues, browns, and ivory. The collection features plenty of linen, cottons, and lightweight knits. “Being a Resort collection, I have kept the fabrications light, wearable and easy to care for but of course with a few pieces of more speciality bases like silks and delicate crinkle fabrics,” said Didovich. A natural progression from everything that came before it, RUBY Resort 2023 allowed Didovich to experiment with new silhouettes, taking the most
popular shapes and re-working them into something new and fresh. The collection also features knitwear made with new structures. Made for a wide audience, with both loyal and brand new Rubettes in mind, the Resort collection has something for everyone. “I think our target audience is anyone who wants to have some fun with their clothing, who appreciates our love of colour and print.” With a Creative Director who adores and is inspired by the Balletcore trend, it is no surprise frills, pleats, and bows have always been central to the RUBY aesthetic. Watching them come full circle in the fashion industry has encouraged Didovich to further embrace the trend in the Resort
collection and add a little bit more of a frill than seen in previous seasons. RUBY Resort 2023 strikes the perfect balance between ease and energy, and puts a fresh spin on summer staples. Sustainable and ethical practices are at the forefront of Didovich’s mind when creating new collections. “We work hard to build and maintain the transparency of our supply chain to ensure everyone is treated fairly, this goes for both local and offshore production.” Fabrics for the Resort collection have been sourced to have the lowest impact on people and the environment. Organic recycled gingham, cotton bases, recycled polyester, and traceable flax linen are used throughout.
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accessory alert
SPECSAVERS' NOSTALGIC SPRING/SUMMER'23 COLLECTION Specsavers is inviting people to play with new shapes and daring colours with their latest Spring-Summer’23 collection.
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hese statement-making frames will have glasses wearers spoiled for choice with 60 new options to pick from. With styles from designers like Mimco, Deus, Marc Jacobs and Alex Perry, this summer collection is anything but boring with bold colours, futuristic designs and new takes on the classics. The collection includes bulky acetates, playful colours and androgynous designs and embraces timeless silhouettes of the past with classic cat eye and oval shapes in updated tonal colour palettes.
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“These frames have been heavily influenced by what we know our customers love, as well as the latest colour and style trends from around the globe. We are so excited to launch these new frames to our customers and can’t wait to see them styled in the wild,” said Nelly Soleil, Head of Frames and Merchandising at Specsavers. “With the addition of Mimco to our ANZ designers this year as well as new launches from Country Road, Collette Dinnigan and Alex Perry, Specsavers has something for everyone.”
Specsavers is also bringing back the Y2K era of wraparound sunglasses and sporty silhouettes from the late 90’s grunge scene, with unique geometric shades. The eyewear brand encourages embracing your inner style icon with these flattering frames that pay tribute to iconic pop culture style references from Audrey Hepburn, Elton John, Harry Styles and Kurt Cobain to Willy Wonka. Glasses from this collection are perfect for making a statement this summer with prices starting at NZ $169.
LEAD THE WAY WITH NARS' POWERMATTE LIP PENCIL MECCA has just welcomed the new NARS Powermatte High-Intensity Lip Pencil.
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strong lip always adds power to your look,” said François NARS, Founder & Creative Director. Let your lips lead the way with this fully loaded creme-matte lip formula. It stays on for 12 hours and is easy to apply, leaving a bold, matte finish. It is also transfer-proof colour and light-weight, taking inspiration from the revolutionary vision of François Nars. The NARS Powermatte High-Intensity Lip Pencil will be available in ten different shades at MECCA both online and in stores.
apparelmagazine.co.nz
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accessory alert
SILK & STEEL X GIN WIGMORE
Long-time friends musician Gin Wigmore and London-born designer Sarah Cotterall of jewellery brand Silk & Steel have collaborated to launch a limited edition collection.
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ong-time friends musician Gin Wigmore and London-born designer Sarah Cotterall of jewellery brand Silk & Steel have collaborated to launch a limited edition collection. Named after Wigmore’s mantras and pre-show rituals, Superstition Club is perfect for all jewellery and music lovers and those simply looking for unique gift selections. “My love for jewellery runs deep. It all fascinates me, from the intricately fine to the daringly bold,” said Wigmore. “The pieces I have collected and worn over the years tell the larger story of who I am alongside a recurring daily thought of “How am I feeling and how can I express those feelings with the world around me?” The duo worked closely to create
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the collection, a great combination of edginess and delicacy inspired by Wigmore’s love for iconography, talismans and life and death. With an unexpected take on traditional motifs, each piece is unique and can be worn by itself or by layering it with other pieces from the collection. “We all have them, those ‘lil ghosts we call superstitions that follow us around and soon become our essential mantras to be daring, bold and brave. My friend Sarah and I made these little superstitions into a tiny collection of lovely jewels for you to enjoy.” As part of Superstition Club, four one-of-a-kind necklaces based on Wigmore’s “Hand in Hand” design will be auctioned, and all proceeds will be donated to Camp Sunshine.
apparelmagazine.co.nz
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in detail
DEADLY PONIES SS23 MAKES A BOLD MOVE Striking a delicate balance between classic craftsmanship and creativity, Deadly Ponies' latest collection does that while also moving towards a bold new direction.
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he iconic New Zealand brand's Spring'23 collection is full of anarchic energy inspired by Britain's 'bad girl', Tracey Emin, an artist known for her autobiographical and confessional work. With seasonal hues, neon texts and paint splatters taking a brassy industrial hardware update, the Deadly Ponies revolution has begun the combination of Emin's work and beach holidays. "I was first introduced to Emin at Tate Modern in London and have since been drawn to her gritty, thought-provoking artistic works. I love the contrast of the confessional pieces, paired with very playful materials with an innocent
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undertone," said Deadly Ponies Founder and Creative Director Liam Bowden. "Her approach gave us the perfect palette to work from. Spring '23 hues bring together ivy, rockpool, nougat, and our signature python print in Jellybean with ridges of flavourful lime." New silhouettes include Mr Ferris Midi, a medium shoulder bag with a zip closure and two debuting Bellboys. As a nod to its heritage, the brand also features a new matte finish of its recyclable solid brass hardware and the classic Deadly Ponies chain detailing inspired by its shipyard history. Drop III of the SS23 collection is set to launch this November.
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