Apparel Magazine // December/January 2015

$ 9.00

DEC/JAN 2015 VOL 48 NO 1

www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

ARMY WIVES pg 08

04 06 07 11 12

NEWS INDUSTRY REPORT WEARABLE TECH CANVAS TO CATWALK EVOKE A REVIVAL

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FASHIONABLE

EDITOR’S letter ‘Tis the Season IT’S that time of year again when all the holiday sale seasons in full swing, and graduate students collections are rocking runways around the country.

In taking a step back from the holiday rush and the end of year hustle and bustle, you could say this year has shown us how fast and how far technology and the online world has come. Click and collect has taken off as well as in-store social media campaigns giving consumers discounts when they check-in and comment on various social media platforms. But will there be a time in the future when the offline world and the online world meet and merge to the point where there is no difference, when bricks and mortar stores are just as smart as our phones or our computers? A time when your shopping history and your likes and dislikes are remembered by stores and omni-channel will be a thing of the past?

Despite the feeling right now of the retail evolution being at a crawling, baby steps stage, in no time at all the retail world will be upright and running, something to look forward to in the new year perhaps?

Blending the best of the e-commerce world with that of bricks and mortar, American designer Rebecca Minkoff uses eBay technology for her stores.

Garments come to life once consumers step inside the changing room with a giant high definition mirrored touchscreen, where consumers can also look for other garments, styles, sizes and colours. (For the video of

this incredible store activation search it on YouTube under Rebecca Minkoff & eBay Inc). By loading the designer’s app on a smartphone, consumers can keep track of what they have tried on and check out while still inside the changing room using PayPal. The year ahead looks to be the most exciting time for retailers.

Included in this month’s issue is the 2015 Apparel Wallplanner, and our fantastic Industry Directory where you will find everyone who is anyone in the industry’s contact details.

I hope everyone has a fantastic holiday season and wish everyone a prosperous 2015.

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

READS Sustainable Fashion: Past, Present and Future

by Jennifer Farley Gordon and Colleen Hill A unique and accessible overview of fashion ethics and sustainability issues of the past, present and future. For the first time, today’s eco-fashion movement is situated in a multifaceted historical context that investigates the relationship between fashion and the environment as far back as the early 19th century.

ON THE COVER: For Every Minute Black Silk Nightshirt PHOTOGRAPHER: Steve Boniface MODEL: Julia Makhovskaya MAKEUP: Michelle Perry HAIR: Mathias Ryder Te Moananui

contributors Invitation Strictly Personal: A Collection of 300 Fashion Show Invitations

ANYA ANDERSON

CHRIS WILKINSON

CORINNE COLE

CHRIS VINCENT

JESSICA-BELLE GREER

CAITLAN MITCHELL

THOMAS FOWLER

KATIE SMITH

Managing Director RedSeed Ltd Christchurch www.redseed.me

Sales & Editorial

Partner at AJ Park corinne.blumsky@ ajpark.com Fashion Consultant

Managing Director of Strategists, First Retail Group www.firstretailgroup.com

Editorial Assistant

Photograher

Practicology

by Iain R. Webb The fashion show invitation is a statement of intent, providing the first inkling of how a designer is thinking that particular season.

Presenting a unique collection of 300 fashion show invitations that span the past four decades, Invitation Strictly Personal juxtaposes examples from womenswear and menswear collections, both ready-to-wear and haute couture, from all four fashion capitals - New York, London, Milan and Paris. Most of the invitations come from Webb’s personal collection.

Trend Analyst, EDITD www.editd.com/blog

Tartan: Romancing the Plaid PUBLISHER EDITOR SALES & MARKETING SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DESIGNER PHOTOGRAPHER

CIRCULATION/ADMIN

Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com

Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com

ISSN 1171-2287

Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794

Jessica-Belle Greer - jessica@reviewmags.com

NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2014 NZ Apparel Magazine.

Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com

Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com

2 I Dec/Jan 2015

by Jeffrey Banks and Doria de La Chapelle Tartan, the symbol of kin, clan and nation to the Scots, has evolved into the one of the world’s favorite fabrics. Fashion world insiders Banks and de La Chapelle have written the definitive book on tartan, bringing together a dizzying array of images to tell the story of tartan’s humble beginnings to it now serving as inspiration for designers from haute couture to furniture.

Your businesses are as varied as our students . . .

. . . let us help you make the best match through work experience and employment options.

CALL Jacqui 09 309 5020 or visit www.nzfashiontech.ac.nz

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NEWS OPHELIA KING OPENS NZ STORE

Mother-daughter duo Wendy Hall and Gemeli Harger have 350 boutique wholesalers selling their lifestyle brand in USA, Canada and Australia. Opening a store on Jervois Road, Ponsonby, is a natural progression for the New Zealand born family behind Ophelia King. Hall opened her first retail store when she was 22 years old and is a retailer at heart and her brand, Elle recently featured in the Elle and the Youthquake exhibition. Her daughter Harger recalls Hall always saying, “Your store is your best customer”.

The store is in an old 1920s building and the inside will be art deco with a modern twist. Brass accents with natural wood will surround romantic soft furnishings as Harger and Hall want the store to be warm, inviting and friendly.

“We want customers to experience that feeling of a kid in a candy store,” said Harger. Ophelia King’s styling appeals to a broad age range of women so it is not often they get to sell all of their designs in one store. The flagship store will have something for every age, every body and every occasion.

Elegant and alluring, Ophelia King designs items including robes, chemises, camisoles and lounge pants that walk the line of inner-wear and outerwear. “We want to create a product that is not only appealing but practical. We want customers to come back to us again and again.”

Ophelia King’s store will play up the current lougewear trend to attract younger customers. The new store will sell bralettes, not bras, and there will be no fittings as traditional lingerie stores cover this. Opening a retail store allows Hall and Harger to showcase their brand in its entirety, and keep them close to customers. Harger will be working most of the time in the back office and no doubt be trotting in and out to talk to customers.

SHOP FX FOR SABEN AT AUCKLAND AIRPORT

New Zealand handbag and accessories brand Saben has opened its first flag ship store as part of Auckland Airport’s new-look retail offer. The pop up kiosk will be there for four months joining other covetable local and international brands, adding to Auckland Airport’s tax-free shopping line-up after security as part of the airport’s retail transformation. With an industrial look about the store, Saben, Auckland Airport and DFS worked together with shop fit-out specialists Shop FX on the design. Saben founder and designer, Roanne Jacobson said the design was created to compliment the product but not detract from it, define the space without detatching it from its environment. The construction needed to fit into a very tight budget and finding the ideal balance between making the space feel enclosed yet adhere to the security, space and look-through restrictions was challenging. “Key to our brand ethos is the sensory experience, celebrating the tactile nature of leather, so we wanted to make sure that the environment emphasised this philosophy and at the same time the product was allowed to shine through,” said Jacobson.

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RUBY OPENS TENTH STORE

Late November saw the opening of New Zealand brand, RUBY’s tenth store in Christchurch’s Merivale. A collaboration between RUBY’s creative consultant, Amelia Holmes and managing director Christine Sharma, the Merivale fit-out reflects a classic and contemporary space. With a sun-filled courtyard for the summer time and a fireplace for the cooler months, RUBY Merivale is set to be a haven for their loyal fans to browse the latest pieces from RUBY, Liam, Lonely Lingerie and MYDEERFOX. “Christchurch is a city we’re dedicated to and it’s great to be a part of the rebuild with the opening of our second store there,” said Sharma.

GENERAL PANTS CO RENAMES

Australian retailer and global trend hunter General Pants Co has renamed its 47 retail stores to General Peace Co. to raise funds for Save the Children Australia and The Salvation Army’s Oasis Youth Support Network. General Pants Co’s brand’s have also rallied behind the initiative by creating a ‘Give Peace’ t-shirt range which will be sold in stores across Australia and internationally and feature designs from renowned brands Stussy, Ksubi, Santa Cruz, Neuw, Zanerobe, Vans, Insight, Candidate and RVCA. All sales made will be donated to Save the Children Australia and Oasis Youth Support Network. Consumers who share their #GIVEPEACE message on their social media will receive 15 per cent off their purchases at General Pants Co.

NZ FASHION TECH STUDENT LAUNCHES BRAND

New Zealand Fashion Tech student, Jerome Taylor, has launched his menswear brand Not For You. All garments are handmade

by Taylor in Wellington. “I started Not For You as I have always wanted to own my own business sharing my passion for design with others, and to design and manufacture clothing in New Zealand,” said Taylor.

Garments are currently made to order. For more information and designs visit, www. notforyou.squarespace.com.

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

Is it a bird, is it a plane?

NO IT’S MOBILE!

Mobile use is growing faster than ever and retailers need to be aware that this is a key play for them to reach their customers - in any age group. By Chris Vincent

ACCORDING to a recent study by Google, 80% of smartphone owners will use their phone to help them shop while they are in store and 1 in 3 shoppers will use their mobile in-store to find information rather than ask an employee.

Mobile is also changing rapidly; but many retailers are still very tactical and short term in their approach.

So what can you do to tackle this 800 pound gorilla in the room?

A FEW TIPS…

Take a step back and think about what your customer is actually doing when they visit your mobile sites.

At a basic level I would recommend segmenting your customers into two groups based on the type of device they are using: Smartphone and Tablet.

Smartphone users are action oriented and so you should be optimising that experience to facilitate conversion. No that doesn’t mean just selling them something on a smartphone, but rather making it a very straightforward and simple process to perform the activity they are on there to do.

The experience should be simplified and cut down, so if they are there to buy, make it easy, but also think about click to call, GPS for nearest store and stock

locator functions. Remember we really do live in a multichannel world.

For the tablet these customers are browsing and interrogating your brand so they want a more rich experience and larger imagery, make your product stand out and provide rich content.

Many tablet sites I come across are just desktop sites pasted onto Tablet, remember this is a different type of device that is more interactive and doesn’t always translate well.

Lastly I’ve seen a lot of discussion about mobile optimisation and what it looks like. Practicology has published some of this information as well.

To personalise this experience for your brand you should be thinking of utilising three tools to help you understand how your customer shops you better.

Firstly you should be doing conversion rate optimisation, or CRO, this is the discipline of continually testing (A/B or multivariate) aspects of your current UX against a new element. This may be in the form of changing banners, buttons, the location of elements on the page or entire sections.

The second element that you should be using, which works best in conjuction with CRO is heat mapping. There are a few tools out there to perform

this but one I’ve used before is Crazy Egg. This tool will show you over time where user hotspots are located on each of the pages of your website. This in turn shows you where there is particular activity going on, both good and bad. For instance if you have a hotspot located in a part of the page that doesn’t have any user interaction points this may be an area of friction or concern.

Lastly you should be thinking about employing user surveys. There are a few agencies that deliver this kind of work out in the market. We used one for our whitepaper on mobile best practice with great results.

Now user surveys may sound expensive, but not necessarily so, the key factors here are how many users and how many scenarios.

At a basic level even a light touch here can help you identify key areas that are a concern and are causing some challenges for your customers when trying to perform a certain action. Again remember not all activity, especially on mobile is about sales.

Most of all think strategically and have a plan of action that is a little deeper than making sure your site is just mobile enabled. There are lots of tools available today for a business that wants to scale up rapidly and have a winning mobile proposition.

Become a fashion stylist with NZ’s first online eCourse - www.styleyou.co.nz apparelmagazine.co.nz

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INDUSTRYreport

The industry according to…

VAL MARSHALL-SMITH NZ FASHION TECH How things have changed…… and yet how they remain the same…..

When we were in the fashion business in the 70s and 80s (yes, I know – last century), one of the common cries from the industry was about the difficulty of finding good skilled machinists and many hours were spent discussing how we as a group could attract people to those jobs.

Then in the late 80s and 90s the industry was bewailing the fact that the skilled machinists, patternmakers and technicians were all dying out.

There was much discussion about the ‘greying’ of the industry, and once again the talk was all about trying to attract people to the industry and the difficulties doing this.

Along came the removal of tariffs off clothing and it was ‘oh woe is me’ once again and ‘how can we compete?’

Some of the bigger manufacturers went into Fiji hoping to offset their manufacturing costs and along with that came challenges with quality and delivery times etc. I was working for one of the big companies

that took the leap at that time and I have to admit I was one of the opponents to manufacturing going off-shore. About 15/20 years ago the first brave NZ makers went off-shore to China.

Then the government bought into the idea that fashion was a ‘sunset’ industry and in their wisdom they decided that all the sewing and technical classes would go at intermediate and high school level and computer labs would be put in instead.

The fashion industry is bigger and brighter than ever and the brands are now truly global.

The fashion industry is bigger and brighter than ever. The companies that we see now are very different. The volumes that are produced and sold all around the world are enormous compared to ‘the good old days’ and the brands are now truly global. I was talking to someone from the States recently who

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had no idea that Pumpkin Patch was a NZ brand. Is that good or bad? I believe that’s great! Pumpkin Patch and companies like them, employ a lot more people in much better paying roles and the career paths in the industry have expanded much more exponentially than if all production had remained in NZ. We just could not grow our brands if that was the case.

And guess what? The industry is still talking about the shortage of skilled sample machinists, patternmakers and technical people. But not only do they need all these skills for the modern industry, they need to be smart, savvy communicators, understand cross cultural communication, have excellent written communication, be super organised and manage huge projects long distance.

Some in Wellington still think the industry is dying because our successful fashion companies don’t advertise for staff in the old ways such as newspapers.

We’re doing our best, but if you want things to change, get out there, talk to your MPs, and ITOs and schools and give them the message. Talk to us about work experience and internships and tell us what it is you require out of a graduate. This is a hugely diverse and growing sector and you deserve the very best at all levels.

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Z E A L A N D

TRENDwatch

WEARABLE TECH IN the modern world, technology has undoubtedly become intertwined with every day life, however the offering of early wearable gadgets has been categorically unfashionable. In a foreseeable turn of events, fashion influencers and technology providers have paired to create a series of stylish products that serve more functionality than their classic counterparts.

When Apple announced it was working with big name fashion designers and influencers, the demand for a high-fashion functional smart watch was answered. Following the trend, a series of partnerships and start-ups offering the same luxe look for wearable technology emerged.

Leading processor provider and developer Intel teamed up with Opening Ceremony to produce MICA (My Intelligent Communication Accessory) a bracelet rumoured to provide notifications from incoming emails, texts and social media. Whilst its functionality is still very secretive, the bracelet looks as if it could belong in any jewellery collection, without any intrusive screens or ports.

Typically wearable technology has come in the form of bracelets or watches, but start-up Ringly has produced a lightweight fashionable notification ring. The user assigns colours to specific alerts, allowing for easy identification of each notification with a small vibration.

Leading fitness band provider, Fitbit, teamed up with Tori Burch to create a case for the pre-existing Fitbit monitor. The new band incorporates Burch’s signature gold fretwork, also coming in a pendant variant.

As tech-minded users eagerly await the release of the Apple Watch, the offering of similar wearable technology is expanding, shaping the direction of technology and fashion for the future.

By Thomas James

Summer 2015 Collection Out Now Auckland 64 9 377 7584 Melbourne 61 3 9416 1107 Sydney 61 2 9669 2410

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COLOUR TRENDING

ARMY WIVES Sound the alarms; designers go to war over military coats this season. Cream, navy and forest green are the war paint of choice on the runways, translating combat equipment into high fashion pieces highlighting beauty in battle gear.

TAKING inspiration from the Vietnam War, Marc Jacobs focussed his collection on uniforms. “Military clothes are part of the fashion vernacular now,” said Jacobs.

This two-piece jacket and jumpsuit, similar to Resene Tuna, was a perfect example of Jacob’s direction, fusing functional elements like pockets and buttons with a silhouette that speaks to feminine proportions.

Rodarte continued with the use of pockets, utilising length and embellishment to produce a feminine appeal. Designers Laura and Kate Mulleavy let visions of water soften the collection, executing garments of power with an undertone of soft waves crashing on the rocks.

This can be seen in the short jacket-dress, similar in colour to Resene Petanque, mixing masculine buckles and feminine embellished netting.

Always a minimalist, Victoria Beckham took the traditional military jacket to a soft and peaceful place. Carefully selected details and proportions allowed for a surprisingly elegant approach to a severe inspiration. In a similar

colour to Resene Half Biscotti, the coat draped well over the body and allowed movement as the model walked.

Jason Wu used a heavy green fabric in this wrap coat, drawing inspiration more from war colours. The collection was derived from traditional American sportswear, as per Wu’s usual offerings. However, instead of leaning towards a bright floral, he opted for neutral tones similar to Resene Willow Grove.

Rag & Bone didn’t hold back on their use of masculine proportion in this collection.

Comprised entirely in natural fabrics, designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville put together a show saturated in detail and rooted in military influence.

After relocating to the former Marc Jacobs space in New York the brand is working to secure itself as style influences on the street of the big apple. The beige trench coat, similar to Resene Tabby left nothing unseen.

Letting the delicate and subtle detailing bring sophistication to an effortless piece, much like the other pieces from the collection.

Colours available from Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz 0800 737 363

8 I Dec/Jan 2015

Resene Bronzetone PETER SOM

Resene Petanque RODARTE

Resene Half Biscotti VICTORIA BECKHAM

Resene Willow Grove JASON WU

Resene Finch YIGAL AZROUEL

Resene Tuna MARC JACOBS

Resene Manilla SUNO

Resene Tabby RAG & BONE

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BEHIND THE BUSINESS

HOLIDAY TRADING STRATEGIES:

Don’t let your business suffer over the holiday season!

By Mandy Jacobson, Agency Manager, Frontline Retail

EVERY employer knows that the ride through Christmas trading is like no other. The long, long hours, and the break-neck pace cannot be matched by any other industry. While the buzz of the holiday trade can be incredible, it can also take its toll leaving team members tired and worn down.

As 2014 draws to a close, it is important to consider strategies before you enter holiday trading that you can implement immediately. This will help to ensure that your business doesn’t suffer from increased staff turnover and lost productivity once the Christmas and New Year break is over.

During January in particular, at Frontline Retail we see an increase in applications and contacts from candidates who are interested in opportunities outside of their current organisations. It is essential at this time of year that individuals can look to their current employer rather than immediately beginning to look externally.

Many of these candidates are not necessarily unhappy with their current role or seriously wanting a career move. However, the ‘hangover’ of the ‘silly season’ creates a desire for change. By being aware of and managing this, organisations can be proactive in managing its effects and be confident of minimising the impact on their business.

Here are some ways to boost the morale of your employees when you see that things are starting to slow down:

1

Set Goals.

There is no better time for setting goals than the start

10 I Dec/Jan 2015

of a new year – be that goals for work, career, health, or personal growth and development. It is also important to ensure that individuals are committed and accountable for these goals (rather than those New Year’s resolutions we all make and break within 24 hours of the fireworks).

This is also an opportunity to focus on team and individual targets, and to promote the business goals and the role each individual will play in achieving them.

Similarly run team or group ‘goal setting’ sessions where the focus is personal goal setting – around not only career goals but areas such as health and fitness, personal growth, home and family, and personal financial goals. Assisting individuals to align their life goals with their work goals is an incredibly powerful motivator.

2

Recognise good employee performance.

Throughout the manic Christmas trade ensure that all managers in the business are focused on recognising and thanking individuals and teams not just for their financial results, but also for the tremendous energy and effort that goes into working in retail at this time of year. Thanking people does not need to be in the form of expensive gifts – just taking the time to thank people individually can have a huge pay off.

3

Award good employees with an extra day off.

Everyone is busy at Christmas time, the opportunity of a day off reaps dividends when employees come

back refreshed, recharged and less stressed!

4

Make it Fun!

The more fun you can make the holiday trading period, the better equipped your staff will be to handle the stresses and strains of Christmas trading and leave them feeling positive about their work over the break.

Laughter is well known as one of the best stress relievers available to us, so ensure that your teams are enjoying themselves and laughing as much as possible.

It sounds too simple to be true, but individuals who are enjoying themselves at work and enjoying the team they work with are less likely to consider external opportunities.

5

Make it Last.

Ultimately, protecting your key employees at any time of year is a result of having a strong culture and business strategies that support employee growth and development. Actively focusing on staff retention and motivation levels 365 days of the year will be key to ensuring your key people stick with you.

Once the Christmas and New Year break has ended, you need your staff to come back rested and motivated for a new year. As things start to slow down, it’s easy for their minds to wander – and hopefully by implementing some of these strategies as soon as you see decline, you can stop them from wandering to a new employer.

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

CANVAS TO CATWALK Art and Fashion Collaborations

As fashion designers seek to create unique collections, more and more are choosing to collaborate with other disciplines for inspiration, edginess and profile. Art is one genre designers are frequently tapping into to push boundaries.

ART and design create intellectual property (IP) rights on their own, so bringing them together needs careful consideration on how to handle the collaborative IP rights.

Collaboration between fashion designers and artists is not a new trend. Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli paved the way back in 1937 when she teamed up with Salvador Dali to create a lobster-print gown. Japanese pop artist Takashi Murakami inspired a collection of monogrammed merchandise by Louis Vuitton.

Piet Mondrian inspired (the now iconic) collection of dresses that Yves St Laurent created in 1965. Tommy Hilfiger worked with the Keith Haring Foundation to create a limited edition footwear collection featuring Haring’s line drawings.

As these examples all illustrate, the inspiration and creation that results from artists and designers working together knows no bounds, which is why collaboration remains such a hot trend in the fashion industry.

To collaborate means ‘to work with another on a project’. The key to success will be determined at the outset by being clear about what the overall objective of the collaboration is, and how the arrangement will work. Tackling and documenting these issues up front will ensure that the journey from canvas to catwalk is smooth sailing.

To ensure that your collaboration works, give some time and thought to: The collaboration arrangement.

Be clear about why you are collaborating with one another. Determine what are the expected results, how long will the arrangement last, how are the financial returns to be divided etc.

Copyright ownership As a result of the collaboration, both parties will create copyright works (the fashion designer, the design of the clothes; the artist, the art). Other copyright works may also be created like the final collection of clothes, possibly accessories, catalogues, promotional materials, catwalk show images and video etc. It is important to discuss and agree on who will own copyright in the various works created.

Often a collaboration may result in joint ownership of the copyright in the final work. Joint ownership means that no individual person can treat the final work as if it is solely theirs. Consent from the other party would need to be obtained first. With both an artist and fashion designer wanting to showcase their creativity, joint ownership can lead to squabbles if both parties want to exploit the results of the collaboration and there has been no discussion about how can be achieved as a win-win for both.

Moral rights

copyright. For example, a collaboration could create a new textile, or a new way of manufacturing a textile or clothing article, or a new method of applying art to a textile surface. Such innovations could be protectable by patent. If the look of the clothing created is different to anything previously designed, then design protection may be an option. And let’s not forget about trade marks.

Fashion designers and artists are brands in their own right. Each should consider whether their names should be registered as a trade mark for the goods they create as result of their own discipline, but also for the goods that result from the collaboration.

The key message is that a successful collaboration is achieved by getting the basics right, and that includes ownership and use of IP results created through the process. Discuss these issues early and put them in writing so that time and effort is spent on moving ‘canvas to catwalk’ and not on arguing over ownership.

By Corinne Cole

iP is about ideas protected If you’re in the design industry then you’re in the business of creating intellectual property. Helping you turn that IP into a valuable asset is where we come in.

If you want to find out how to be rewarded for your creativity and innovation – talk to us about protecting and commercialising your IP. We’ve been helping designers do this since 1891! Contact us today to find out more.

0800 257 275 I www.ajpark.com I New Zealand + Australia

Are distinct from copyright rights. Both the fashion designer and the artist would enjoy moral rights as those are personal to the creator of a work, even if other copyright rights have been assigned away. Moral rights don’t often come into play unless one party considers that their work has been distorted in some way. Talk about how and where the collaboration work will be used to avoid this issue arising.

Other IP rights A collaboration is likely to result in other IP rights being created, not just

AJ Park is about iP • intellectual property • igniting passion • ideas pervading

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NEWS THE BUSINESS BEHIND TRELISE COOPER LAUNCHES MOBILE SITE

EVOKE A REVIVAL

Launched in late September, the new Trelise online site for mobiles offers customers the opportunity to shop anywhere – anytime. “The mobile site mirrors the experience of shopping on the desktop site, but it is tailored to a smaller screen,” said Felicity Christmas, brand liaison for Trelise Cooper. “It displays AS reflect oncampaign 2014 and images welcomecrisply in the and New clearly, Year, thewebeautiful fashion insiders business information analysts ensuring that and the intricate details of each garment begin to forecast thenavigation upcoming year it seems can be seen. The bar, and zoom and search that after several difficult the clothing retailing features have also been years, enhanced for mobile screens industry finally back track - and future is to makeis shopping onon the go as easytheand enjoyable looking promising. as possible.” The first online venture launched in Following the global financial crisis therethat werevisiting November 2011.

Cooper understands years of higher rental decreased consumer a physical store hascosts, become a luxury that many spending tougher struggleand to find timecompetition for and thewhich onlinetogether, store takes contributed to the demise in revenue and profitinto the the experience of her bespoke boutiques margins within the industry.

This sparked a huge review of the Australian retail market which to date, already employs over 10 per cent of the population; fashion and apparel, footwear, jewellery and accessory retailers throughout Australia sought out new initiatives and campaigns to support them to evolve, grow and ultimately, revive the industry.

In September, the Australian Gift & Homewares Association (AGHA) acquired FASHION EXPOSED and confirmed that in-line with this industry movement, in 2015 and beyond, FASHION EXPOSED will be REVIVED. Since the retail and clothing industry requires a much needed lift, this innovative move and announcement from AGHA could not have been timed better.

Timed during the two biggest fashion buying Fashion areAGHA being will called take part in iD seasonsdesigners of the year, runtoFASHION Dunedin Fashion Week that will celebrate its 16th EXPOSED REVIVED alongside the Home & year in Giving April 2015.

Dunedin Weekto is deliver New Zealand’ FairiD and DesignFashion Life Sydney the s longest standing and is theground culmination biggest fashionretail tradefashion event show in NSW. This ofbreaking a weekmove of sensational events, including talkstoby to provide three fairs in one aims prestigious overseas guests, collaborations, support both retailers and international wholesalers by delivering catwalk shows, retail events, and New Zealand’ fashion an all-encompassing, one-stop-shop whichs top meets the awards thedemands iD International Emerging Awards. growing of today’s industryDesigner and time-poor High profile and emerging Kiwi designers are being asked retailers. to submit the hugely popular public As weportfolios all know,for relaunches and revivals aren’tfashion event.

Fashion interested participating must quick, cheap designers nor easy. As AGHA in promises to elevate beNSW’s commercially producing directional only fashion trade event to bringadult both fashion.

Links to Dunedin, such as retailing in the city, ortrade having retailers and wholesalers the valuable fashion lived or they studied in and Dunedin not want compulsory will event want need,are many to knowbut how. beAGHA’s taken into account. are some madeofbythe industry CEO, OmerSelections Soker reveals latest professionals basedlaunched on the designer portfolios submitted. initiatives being to successfully revive the Applications are also open for the Emerging Designer event.

Awards, provides an international for rising “Thewhich AGHA is investing heavily onplatform the revival, local and international fashion design talent showcase bringing back the live runway shows withtorenowned their collections gain with further Larainnovative Inc Events who haveand worked theprofessional likes catwalk networking opportunities. of Alexexperience Perry, Toniand Maticevski, Christopher Esber, For more information www.idfashion.co.nz.

David Jones andvisit international couture houses

DESIGNERS INVITED TO JOIN ID 2015

digital world, complete with elegant packaging, surprise gifts and exceptional customer service. Since the launch, mobile and tablet traffic has risen 89 per

By Fashion Exposed cent and wholesale accounts have also increased.

Trelise Cooper brand has a following of women of all ages and each label within the brand is designed for Louis Vuitton, Burberry, DVF,Along Hermes, Gucci a slightly different customer. with the brands’ collaboration with TCF Australia, alongside and Salvatore Ferragamo.

We have also engaged loyal fan base, 40 per cent of online traffic comes collaborations with additional highly regarded Decorative to style and theme theattributed event. from new Events customers, which can be to industry professionals including, but not limited to, Barry Nicolaou - ShoeCircle, Lara Karamian - LARA We’ll also be celebrating the revival bubbly Since on its carefully curated social mediawith presence. the opening day,Online Fridaywas 20thlaunched February,” saidhave AGHA Trelise Cooper they seen INC. and Emily Weight - IMG Fashion, presents a CEO, Soker. a 700 Omer per cent increase in Facebook fans. With Trelise strong message that professionals within the fashion As partgarments of the revival, AGHA has collaborated Cooper having an enduring appeal, the industry are banding together to revive the industry with a wealth of well-respected ‘Outlet’ section of the site hasindustry continued to rise in and launch FASHION EXPOSED REVIVED. Fashion industry professional Barry Nicolaou professionals to launch the new FASHION popularity and is a great wayeratoof give customers speaks passionately about how uniting together is EXPOSED REVIVED, showing that the industry favourite pieces from past seasons. an imperative factor in improving the future for the is united and dedicated in putting FASHION fashion industry.

EXPOSED REVIVED at the forefront of the “It takes a few key elements to unite an industry fashion trade.

– most of these relate to vision, imagination and Since 2002 FASHION EXPOSED have had persistence. It also takes courage to follow one’s a strong relationship with TCF Australia and and Zealand embraceBreast a special message in a way which sinceForlaunching the consecutive revival, TCFyear, and Sealy FASHION the second is supporting heart the New chasersExpert only know EXPOSED REVIVEDwith havehelp rekindled the leading flame and Cancer Foundation from four creativedream local talents. eyes inhow. The fashion/footwear industryONE), is heading change and as much as we joined forces to showcase various design industriesAustralia’s includingbest artistup-andElliot O’Donnell (ASKEW fashionfor designers mayinterior all not designer know each other,Yare we all know something coming designers.

Denise L’Estrange Corbet from WORLD, Juliette Hogan and LeeAnn aboutpanels each other.

The revitalised feature showcase Spring/ have master the art ofwill sleep with a range of bespoke fabric for a Sealy Posturepedic Our inspiration, our dedication ourmonochrome vision Summer 2015/2016 Winter 2015 collections Exquisite bed. Each&fabric panel is very different with designs ranging from bright polka dotstoand and countless hours planning andfashion pursuing fromtothe industry’s future Carol Hanlon, pastel chevrons and designers. fine art geometric prints. Celebrated for her mix of contemporary withsuccess timeless inmonochrome. the face of certain failure a challenge founder and CEO of Hogan TCF Australia, femininity, Juliette has mixedexplains animal print with her love for The result is aisbed that delivers a we’re“We all all passionate to pursue.

FASHION the luxe integral need for print industry professionals to revival of the inspired by her upcoming winter ’15 collection. know someone affected by breast EXPOSED REVIVED is here to bringfor come together and way, support cancer in some so I the feel designers passionateofabout giving back to the community and creating more awareness likeminded together - to tenure learn, at tomorrow. so many women and their families throughout New Zealand,” said Hogan.

Taking people inspiration from her be creations. inspired, Using to grow personally andfabrics “ItWORLD, is vital L’Estrange for the survival designers Corbetofbrings a playful and fearless attitude to her bright and bold believe it’s about and helped retailersachieve in Australia and was Newfun Zealand a bed that and beautifully eclectic that perfectlyeconomically. references herMost identity as a designer. bringing suppliers and buyers to unite and bring the spirit, innovation and together and on the surface this creativity to the local fashion industry that may look like the case, but thrived here for the past 55+ years. I have been beneath this lies the purpose of in the TCF Industry myself for over 45 years is excited be first-to-market eachtoother’s passions and have seen many ups and downs Global duringintimate these apparel company Triumphsharing with an – Magic Featuring all the newWire. and existing times, but the end consumer still thrives on innovative technology support systemwith comfort and support of an underwire without acolleagues metal wire,forTriumph’ a mores Magic fresh new ideas, great product, personalised customers and the inspired tomorrow.” service and the passion for fashion. Wire is set to revolutionise bras. Triumph has listened to their causethe discomfort I congratulate all those involved most common complaint about bras is the underwire that canFrom and redness by digging into the skin, leading to constant readjustment.

Women professional at AGHA to return FASHION have lived with this because the underwire is essential in supporting a nature runways curated EXPOSED REVIVED to its to thefortunate incredible former glory and assist our non- shape, however – this is no longer the case. “As a brand we arebyvery thatInc. canto speak with women Lara the stylish 60’s profit organisation TCF Australia have a global network of research and development around the world, identify those core insights and develop inspired design such story,anit innovative is clear to continue to bring amazing product as Magic Wire. We truly believe revolutionise way women thatthis in will 2015, a new era the of FASHION opportunities to emerging new wear their bras and is a perfect complement our be range, ” says head of brand, EXPOSEDtowill born. designers to make new contacts Nicola Hodgson. Triumph’s innovative solution to deliver female For morecontinues information on NSW’s with buyers, gain orders and confidence and ensuring women feel comfortable and confident in whatever biggest fashion trade event visit showcase their skills and talents they wear. The Magic Wire is silicone, ensuring a firm yet gentle support.

It is fully fashionexposed.com.au – let’s with their fantastic new enclosed inside the bra pad so wearer’s will only feeltogether soft fabric against the skin unite and join the collections.” and a built in mesh stabilizer offers additional support revival.that moves with the body This revived like a second skin, offering a new level of comfort and fit.

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Dec/Jan2014 2015 126 I I October

BEHIND THE BUSINESS

WHAT’S YOUR PLAN?

#festivalfashion

by Chris Wilkinson

THE majority of retailers have a business plan, most have a marketing plan, but how many have a digital strategy? It’s this aspect of retailing that’s at its most dynamic ever – requiring a completely new way of determining value and benefit to your stores from technology.

Firstly, a digital strategy helps businesses make smart, strategic decisions on investment – based on their linkage with other aspects of the operation.

It outlines each aspect of your digital presence, promotion and business infrastructure – identifying key aspects for consideration when looking at new solutions and industry trends.

As a day to day resource, a strategy helps define existing requirements and cleverly anticipates what will be required in the future.

It’s easy to become distracted by new technology and frequent deals that are presented to retailers. A digital strategy means decisions are based on how they fit with existing solutions and longer term requirements. This is because many of these aspects interlink – meaning changing on implications for others within the company.

A good strategy will look at all aspects of the businesses’ promotional needs, encompassing web and e-commerce, social media, location based technology

and digital signage. These elements are evolving quickly – meaning retailersneed to be ahead of the game at all times.

Operationally, point of sale systems, digital security, data backup, rostering/attendance, training and accounting are other digital aspects that fit within a comprehensive plan. These need to be considered just as much as the more exciting marketing tools.

With software integrations across many platforms now, driving efficiencies through one program talking seamlessly to another can be a reality – as long as choices have been strategic. Too often retailers have to retire valuable computer hardware or software because it doesn’t interface with other systems. A strategy can go a long way toward reducing this risk.

If you’re in a mall or shopping centre it’s vital you understand their digital strategy too. There’s no point duplicating what your landlord is delivering (or planning to deliver), but instead, look to add value to their initiatives. Almost all good centres now have a comprehensive plan in place they’ll be happy to share as part of their overall promotional support.

A good strategy becomes a point of reference and underpins confident, robust decisions on investment.

Take time to invest a little now so you can save and enjoy efficiencies in the future.

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