Apparel Magazine // December/January 2016

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DEC/JAN 2016 I VOL 49 I NO 1

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NEWS MENSWEAR RESENE COLOUR TRENDING NUTS & BOLTS

FASHIONABLE

EDITOR’S letter Can Social Selling Work For Fashion?

With social media making up nearly a quarter of all time spent online and reaching more than 75 percent of all Internet users it’s no wonder ‘social selling’ seems to be the hottest new buzzword in town despite the concept having been around for decades. Beauty and jewellery brands overseas have been implementing new door-to-door sales similar to the concept that was made famous by Avon and Tupperware. Social selling makes potential investors, employees, colleagues, clients and customers at anyone’s fingertips through social media, new software and devices.

In the US alone more than 18 million people were involved in direct selling according to the Direct Selling Association. This generated around US$34.5 billion of sales. By leveraging various social and digital media connectivity’s and attracting investors a new wave of start-ups are emerging and redefining the perception of direct selling using a variety of digital tools like Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and YouTube. With just a swipe of a screen, these modern-day sellers are selling merchandise by leveraging online social networks.

“Traditionally, direct selling is about selling to people that you know within your community or people that you live close to,” said Lynda Mills, director of the Direct Selling Association to a UK news source.

“You go to their house, try on clothes and so on. Today, people use social media to communicate with a large network of people, without having to live close to them, that way of communicating is much more time-efficient.” A strong combination of sales and technology can be incredibly powerful reaching every screen, big or small, all around the world, day and night.

However, this social selling may not be all-that for the fashion industry despite the appeal online shopping has with many. A lot of consumers, especially women crave a social aspect of going out in groups to try on clothes, deciding what to buy and what doesn’t suit. One of the largest direct selling womenswear businesses, Cabi in the U.S., has enlisted over 3,300 specialists across the country. Chief executive Lynne Coté believes that the brand gives women the opportunity to have a transformational social experience of gathering with friends and exploring style and ideas in an intimate and relaxed home environment.

Overall direct selling has not been common practice within the industry especially in apparel and footwear according to Michelle Grant, head of retailing at market intelligence firm Euromonitor International. This could be due to the fact that the wide range available online to consumers, garments and products available online are in every colour and size, and with direct sales consumers only have in front of them a limited amount of colours and sizes to try. “Some direct sellers have found success with jewellery and handbags as these items don’t require a lot of different versions of the product,” said Grant.

In the case of emerging direct selling company Poshmark, sellers can have large followings ranging from a few thousand to over three or four million with several users having to hire people to manage their online stores. The platform is a new portal where sellers can buy merchandise from brands at wholesale prices and sell it via their page on Poshmark for a profit with the company providing sellers with pre-paid postage and delivery of items. Despite this, it is hard to tell whether selling fashion through social sales will work in the long-term. “It still isn’t a significant distribution channel,” continued Grant.

“Social media is a great way to promote products but it’s a competitive market place so companies need to stand out with a strong brand identity and a high level of service and personalisation to differentiate themselves.” The team at NZ Apparel hopes that everyone has a wonderful holiday season and wishes everyone a successful and prosperous new year.

Enjoy the issue.

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

Designer Ralph Lauren’s net worth is US$8.2

billion.

ON THE COVER:

Runway shot of Maggie Hewitt’s end of year show, year 4 student at Whitecliffe College of Art and Design.

the NUMBERS . . .

The average New Zealand weekly spend per household on clothing is $29.5, while the average spend on footwear is $25.7.

As of 2015, Nike employs 62,600 people worldwide.

PUBLISHER Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com EDITOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Thomas Fowler - tommie@reviewmags.com

Monique McKenzie - monique@reviewmags.com Rossella Quaranta - rosella@reviewmags.com

ADVERTISING SALES

Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com

Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com

2 I December/January 2016

SENIOR DESIGNER Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com PHOTOGRAPHER Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com ADMINISTRATION MANAGER Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.

READS GRACE: Thirty Years of Fashion at Vogue

By Grace Coddington

After its successful launch in 2002, this year Grace Coddington has reissued her 408page monograph depicting the past 30 years at Vogue.

Grace: Thirty Years of Fashion at Vogue features forewords

by American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and designer Karl Lagerfeld alongside intimate stories involving Cecil Beaton, Mario Testino, Naomi Campbell and Manolo Blahnik.

WOMEN IN THIS TOWN: New York, Paris, Melbourne, Tokyo, Madrid and London

By Giuseppe Santamaria

From the photographer who captured the essence of New York men’s streetwear comes the latest In This Town published edition, this time with the focus on women.

Giuseppe Santamaria has collated his best work from the streets of New York, Paris, Melbourne, Tokyo, Madrid and London in one hardcover coffee table book spanning across 272 pages.

Alongside the imagery, Women In This Town features candid interviews with everyday women showcasing distinct style on the street.

FANTASTIC MAN: Men of Great Style and Substance

By Emily King, Gert Jonkers and Jop van Bennekom

In celebration of Fantastic Man’s success, the magazine has compiled its best interviews with some of the world’s most stylish, influential and innovative men of the last decade.

Fantastic Man: Men of Great Style and Substance brings together exclusive content spanning across 70 subjects including Bryan Ferry, Tom Ford, Helmut Land and Ewan McGregor. The book covers all 21 issues of Fantastic Man and marks the tenth anniversary of the magazine, from the first interview with Rupert Everett in 2005 to the most recent with Mathew Moneypenny this year.

news

75 YEARS OF AIR NEW ZEALAND

The New Zealand Fashion Museum celebrated Air New Zealand’s 75th anniversary with a special exhibition that showcased the variety of uniforms the company has had over the years.

Alongside the online exhibition, Auckland Museum also opened its own Air New Zealand exhibition in celebration of 75 years.

ST LUKE’S GETS GO AHEAD

After a lengthy deliberation with Auckland Council, St Luke’s shopping centre has been given the okay to proceed with its planned expansion.

The approval means St Luke’s owner, Scentre, will increase the floor space of the mall from four hectares to 7.7 and eventually 9.2, making it the biggest mall in New Zealand. However, the Albert Eden Local Board chairman, Peter Haynes, said the expansion would have devastating consequences for the Mt Albert and Pt Chevalier shopping strips.

ITMA AWARD ANNOUNCED

Levi Strauss & Co. was announced as the first winners of the ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award. The company beat out finalists Berto Industria Tessile from Italy and Gebruder Otto from Germany with its NoStone garment washing technology from Tonello.

“We are very excited to be the first winner of the ITMA award. The success is a testimony of the strong collaboration of two iconic brands,” said Frankly Vangaever, R&D product researcher, Levi Strauss & Co. Sustainability was the lead topic of ITMA 2015, with industry leaders focused on developing innovations that are planet-friendly and help improve business bottom lines. “We felt for the first time there’s a real understanding and interest in energy efficiency and green technology,” said Regina Bruckner, chief executive officer, Brückner Textile Machinery. Representatives from across the globe attended the event including India, Turkey, Germany, France, Iran, Brazil, Pakistan and Spain. The next ITMA will be held in 2019 from 20 to 26 June.

4 I December/January 2016

NEW ZEALAND MILL IN RECEIVERSHIP

Bruce Woollen Mill has been placed in receivership and staff issued redundancy notices. Dian Nellies, principal, Insolvency Management Ltd could not comment on the debt owed by the company but said it was business as normal. All employees have been re-employed on a casual basis with similar terms and conditions as their previous employment. “There’s work there for them and if there’s any work that comes in the meantime, as long as it’s profitable, we’ll continue to do it,” said Nellies.

DESIGN A BAG COMPETITION

Following a successful launch 15 months ago, the Aim label has been incorporated under the Huffer brand and will now be named Huffer Label.

Huffer Label is a departure from the brand’s typical street wear aesthetic, with garments targeted at a sophisticated market. “What started out as a small project and collection has become much bigger, Aim has really connected with out customers, earning a place under the Huffer brand,” said Steve Dunstan, co-founder, Huffer. Along with a change in name, Huffer Label also released its SS15 range, the Partie collection.

CHARITY PARTNERSHIP FOR POSTIE+

Postie+ teamed up with KidsCan to launch a new campaign to help children in need nationwide.

The Postie+One initiative donated a gift-wrapped item to low decile schools in New Zealand for every item purchased at its pop-up physical and online store, which stocked predominantly childrenswear. “There are more than a quarter of a million children who are living in hardship.

The Postie+One concept is a great way to give New Zealanders the chance to lend a helping hand this Christmas,” said Jan Clark, general manager of marketing and fundraising, KidsCan.

news

ELIZABETH ARDEN OPENS AUCKLAND FLAGSHIP

BLOOMINGDALE’S APOLOGISES FOR ADVERT

International retailer Bloomingdale’s was forced to apologise following the release of its 2015 holiday catalogue that sparked outrage across social media. The catalogue read “spike your best friend’s eggnog when they’re not looking” and featured a male model looking at the distracted female. Bloomingdale’s agreed the image was in poor taste and apologised.

Another in the long line of luxury brands opening, Elizabeth Arden has opened its doors on Auckland’s Queen Street marking the first flagship store for the brand in New Zealand.

“We view this iconic location as a pilot laboratory to experiment with new and exciting ideas for products, promotions, and service driven events,” said Valerie Riley, general manager, Elizabeth Arden New Zealand.

The store features a stateof-the-art customer colour foundation machine that scans customer’s skin and determines their exact tone as to dispense the right pigment into a custom-blended foundation.

FLOATING RUNWAY A SUCCESS

Adding to her long list of unconventional runways, Jessica Minh Anh has successfully staged a 100-metre runway on the Seine River in Paris. Iconic monuments including the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame and the Louvre served as a backdrop while the boat floated through 37 bridges. “What is a better way to combine fashion and Paris than having a show on a class boat where you will be able to see the beautiful scenery and at the same time the collections,” said Anh. New Zealand brand Iwi Creations featured in the event, having spent only eight weeks designing its spring collection especially for the show. Previously Anh has had runways in some of the world’s most famous locations including the Eiffel Tower, One World Trade Centre, Grand Canyon, London’s Tower Bridge, Petronas Twin Towers’ Skybridge, Hudson River and the Spanish solar power plant Gemasolar.

W W W.G D S - O N L I N E .C O M For all GDS information and advice on travel and accommodation options, contact Robert Laing, Messe Reps. & Travel, 09 5219200, robert@messereps.co.nz

gds1602_WIm_210x150_NZ.indd 1

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menswear news

NIXON RELEASE SECOND STAR WARS RANGE

FARAH TO LAUNCH IN NZ

In celebration of the new Star Wars film, Nixon has released its second injection of the Nixon Dark Side Collection. The range includes new watches and accessories inspired by the franchise’s biggest villains, Darth Vader, Boba Fett and the Stormtroopers. Next year Nixon will release the third of four collections inspired by the films and is set to draw on characters including the Rebel Pilots, Droids and different Jedi.

FIRST MENS COLLECTION FOR COACH

MENSWEARnews PLUS SIZE OFFERING FOR MENSWEAR MARKET

Retail Apparel Group have launched a new range of plus size garments for men with the announcement of new brand, Johnny Bigg. Originally launched as an online store in September last year, Johnny Bigg quickly moved to bricks and mortar locations in Australia and is now launching a dedicated online store for New Zealand customers.

“The expansion of the brand into the New Zealand market was a natural opportunity for the brand. We are excited to test, as we did in Australia with this new territory and consider the potential roll out of standalone stores in 2016,” said Julian Hayman, general manager, Johnny Bigg Australia and New Zealand.

The range caters to regular and tall customers from size XL to 8XL in tops, 36” to 52” in pants, 42” to 56” in suits, and UK 9 – UK 15 in footwear. “Clearly there is a growing demand for this type of specialty environment and we are perfectly positioned to service this demand,” said Hayman.

American based accessory brand, Coach, has announced the release of its first ever men’s ready-to-wear clothing collection, to be sold through luxury e-tailer Mr Porter. The range spans across a series of jackets and leather bags, alongside an offering of leather wallets. Joining the range will be two yet-to-launch low top sneaker styles in black and white.

Menswear retailer Perry Ellis International has struck a licencing agreement in Australia and New Zealand with South Pacific Apparel Ltd., which will see the launch of men’s sportswear brand Farah in 2016.

The agreement incorporates the brand’s polos, t-shirts, casual shirts, denim and pants which will be distributed in department, chain and specialty stores, as well as online through Australian e-tailer The Iconic.

“Our company looks forward to working closely with South Pacific Apparel with targeted marketing and social media campaigns as we execute our strategy to extend the reach of our global brands across product categories, distribution channels and geographies to drive further growth and profitability,” said George Feldenkreis, chief executive, Perry Ellis International.

BARKERS NEW COLLAB

New Zealand based menswear brand, Barkers, have teamed up with Surfline for the third time.

The two designed a collection consisting of two short sleeve shirts, ten printed t-shirts and five board shorts, all of which were released in store late November. Surfline first partnered with Barkers in 2013 when they helped refurbish Auckland’s Takapuna Barkers store, and went on to collaborate again in 2014 on a clothing range.

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6 I December/January 2016

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footwear news

SKECHERS WIN TRADEMARK LAWSUIT

DOUBLE MONK OPENS SECOND STORE

The chief administrative judge at the International Trade Commission has ruled that Skechers’ Bobs and Twinkle Toes brands did not breach Converse’s common-law trademarks. In October 2014, Converse filed a lawsuit against 30 companies for infringing on the sneaker’s classic bumper toe, striped midsole and toe-cap style. “In making his ruling, the judge noted that both of the Skechers product lines feature prominent branding and that the Twinkle Toes line contains design features that create enough differences that the shoes bearing them can not be said to be similar to the Chuck Taylor,” said a representative from Skechers.

Following the success of its Melbourne store, luxury footwear retailer Double Monk has opened its second store in Sydney. The store will stock limitededition runs of brands including Crockett & Jones, John Lobb, Edward Green, George Cleverley and Alden. “For a lot of people, spending $700-plus on a pair of shoes is a big investment. But people get bitten by the shoe collecting bug,” said Chris Schaerf, co-founder, Double Monk.

FOOTWEARnews RAPPER AUCTIONED OFF CHARITY SHOES

A new collaboration between Eminem, Carhartt and Michael Jordan saw the rapper auction off 10 limited edition pairs of shoes for his namesake charity. The shoes featured graphics from Eminem and Shady Records and were designed in line with the “Lose Yourself” signature style. Funds received by the Marshall Mathers Foundation are used to help at-risk and disadvantaged youth in Detroid, Michigan and surrounding communities.

WILD PAIR IN RECEIVERSHIP

Formerly Payless Shoes, footwear retailer Wild Pair went into receivership last month. At the request of its owners, Michael and Paul Donovan, Wild Pair made the decision to enter receivership in the face of a difficult retail environment. Receivers William Black and Andrew Grenfell, McGrathNicol, said the business would retail as usual while the company is up for sale. Wild Pair currently operates 22 stores and is the latest in a series of New Zealand retailers who have struggled recently, with Postie Plus, Identity Clothing and Jean Jones all going into receivership or administration in the past two years.

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colour trending

Victorian Opulence It was an era of peace and prosperity for the United Kingdom, the Victorian style penetrated fashion, architecture, literature and visual arts. The development of the plain-stitch machine saw a rise in factory made clothing and increased use of trim, while new cheaper dyes were developed allowing for greater use of colour.

In line with the signature style of Alexander McQueen, designer Sarah Burton further developed the Victorian theme that is apparent in all McQueen collections, this time turning down the drama for a more elegant approach.

“I wanted it to be believable, touchable, soft,” said Burton.

Executed on a creamy white base similar in colour to Resene Eighth Truffle, the floral gown is classic and referential, without stepping into the realm of costume, which the McQueen brand has been known to do.

Erdem’s collection was a showcase of florals, texture, trimmings and detailing. His inspiration came from a dark place, but was used to create beautiful pieces that help tell

the story of prairie madness.

“In 1862, Abraham Lincoln passed the Homestead Act, so there were all these women coming from Europe bringing their clothes and remnants of their lives – and they started to suffer from agoraphobia and all kinds of psychological illness,” said Erdem.

Floral applique featured throughout the collection, with greens in a colour akin to Resene Streetwise, coupled with the Victorian treatment of the fabric.

The work of J.W. Anderson has always been unpredictable, but this season was a cataclysmic fusion of decades throughout time. The colour palette was simple, incorporating a dark blue much like that of Resene Blueprint. Along with the Victorian silhouettes, Anderson referenced punk motifs from the ‘80s, finishings from the ‘90s and called it a woman’s odyssey.

“The idea that if you took a date in time and sliced it through and looked at what everyone was doing at that

ERDEM Resene Streetwise J.W. ANDERSON Resene Blueprint ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Resene Eighth Truffle

8 I December/Janaury 2016

GILES Resene Matakana

time, would it mean anything?” said Jonathan Anderson, designer J.W. Anderson.

Don’t be fooled by the fact that Mother of Pearl showcased this floral jumpsuit, it is still very much in reference to the Victorian way of dress. The long sleeves, high neck and beautiful pink floral print all point to a summer in the palace garden drinking tea. Resene Princess is a delicate pink shade; very fitting with its name, and much like the pink in the jumpsuit, is evocative of joy and love.

It is fitting that Simone Rocha would showcase her collection in a venue so rich in British history. Lancaster House in London was the stage for Rocha’s latest work, which had clear references to various key moments in the English timeline mixed with the inevitable influence of her time spent in Japan.

“I found out I was pregnant while I was in Japan, working on a project with Dover Street Market Ginza, and then went on to Kyoto for a few days,” said Rocha.

In a colour similar to Resene Moscato, the pink bouncy dresses held shapes typical of the Victorian style, but executed in a fabric much more sheer than would ever have been seen on a lady. Coupled with the kimono influenced bows and subtle references to Japanese warriors, the collection was a break away from Rocha’s usual style as she continues to develop what her brand will be.

Colours available from

Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363

PHILLIP LIM Resene Half Breathless MOTHER OF PEARL Resene Princess

SIMONE ROCHA Resene Moscato

ZIMMERMANN Resene Material Girl

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I9

trendwatch

It has been all over the runway and has now made its way onto the accessory market; fringe is having its revival with a modern twist on textile and colour options. A long way from its origins on vintage leather

RETAILeye

FRINGE BENEFITS

jackets, fringe can now be seen executed in leather, on hemlines, hanging from a shoe, a trim for a bag or even as a whole gown.

New Zealand designer, Sean Kelly, kick started the trend with a blue to black ombré fringe gown worn

by Heidi Klum at the Creative Arts Emmy Awards, sparking wide-spread talk about both New Zealand and the return of a hippy style. From there the Spring 2016 shows were flooded with fringe, on both garments and accessories.

Dion Lee, Christian Siriano and Prabal Gurung all showcased fringe on the runway, opting for a dark

MUSE Taking on an established business can be a daunting task, but Muse owner Olivia Vincent has made her passion her livelihood and eight months later still lives for every day.

“After living in Europe for three years and discovering so many labels, I knew that there was a gap in the market locally. As a country, our taste in fashion and interest in style is developing quickly,” said Vincent.

Situated in the booming fashion district of Newmarket, Muse boutique on Teed Street is nestled in amongst brands including Fabric, Zambezi, Edit, Kate Sylvester, Seletti and Workshop.

“Some might assume this means competition, but we’ve all got a different vibe and customer base so it’s a positive thing, especially for foot traffic.”

Vinvent’s previous experience at Showroom 22 helped equip her for the business, having already developed a skill set for event management, client communication, press and people-management.

“I was the Showroom manager and in hindsight, this was a brilliant education for running a retail store and building a boutique brand.”

Vincent’s partner’s mother, Madeline Healy owned the Muse store with her friend Jo Gould, so when Vincent heard they were selling, she jumped at the opportunity.

“One evening they invited me out for a drink and told me that they were thinking of selling. The following day I resigned from Showroom 22 and bought the business, it all happened incredibly fast but felt like the right thing to do.”

10 I December/January 2016

blue, black and white palette as opposed to Kelly’s bright blue and orange.

Aside from the runway, fringe penetrated the accessory options for spring making waves in the festival fashion scene due to the clear hippy references.

Fendi released a range of ‘baguette’ totes, one of which featured two kissing birds accompanied by a fringe trim. Christian Louboutin executed his equivalent of a fringe cowgirl stiletto, if she was to wear bright red, green and purple.

While critics have been torn, one thing is certain; the fringe statement has not gone un-noticed.

The store exclusively carries Diane Von Furstenberg, Elizabeth and James, Missoni, Tibi, Theory, Autumn Cashmere, Rebecca Taylor and Derek Lam, with new additions including Ellery, Christopher Esber, Georgia Alice, Self Portrait and Heidi Klien Swimwear.

“Many of my customers have been shopping here since the beginning of Muse, and it’s great to now see younger generations shopping with us and showing the same appreciation. They love Georgia Alice, Anine Bing and Celine Eyewear.”

Handling the back end of the business is however something new for Vincent and her mother has stepped in to help.

“She helps me stay organised and works on the accounting side of things as my passions are styling and selling.”

The key to a successful retail store is knowing your customer, and Vincent has had nothing but success.

She prides herself on great customer service, helping women find beautiful clothing that they will wear countless times.

“I also enjoy pushing women out of their comfort zone and getting them into garments they wouldn’t usually wear. Sometimes we all can get stuck in a style rut, restricting our choices in the process.”

Pushing her own comfort zone, Vincent hopes to open a store in the South Island, having already established a strong client base in both Queenstown and Christchurch.

behind the business

STUDENTlife

Nicole Wesseling

Sophia Butler

Growing up in a creative family, Nicole Wesseling’s interest in fashion was second nature. Wesseling has been sewing for as long as she can remember, using her Dutch heritage and world travels as inspiration. “My grandmother was a seamstress, and both her and my mother taught me how to sew before furthering my knowledge at Whitecliffe,” said Wesseling.

As a tactile designer, Wesseling uses fabric to help shape her designs, taking inspiration from the processes of Yohji Yamamoto, Haider Ackermann and Uma Wang. “The choice of fabric, design and construction all work together to define a quality piece of clothing. If one fails then the entire garment fails.”

Wesseling is another in the new wave of students that have a strong point of view on sustainable design. She understands the importance of a value chain, and recognises that while it may be a big feat, every little step towards conscious design helps.

Currently Wesseling is working as the in-house designer for French83, soaking up the experience to learn more about how a fashion business is run behind the scenes.

“I’m working towards starting my own label. I plan on staying in Auckland for a few years but will certainly move overseas to gain experience in the industry. I have my eye on the Netherlands at this stage.”

For Sophia Butler it all begun with a bag in high school. From here she fell in love with the power of fashion, having already watched her Aunt set up and run a successful brand. “I come from a family of makers, my mum and nana sewed my clothes and my dad builds all sorts of things. I definitely inherited my curiosity to pull things apart and see how they work from him,” said Butler. Butler’s curiosity continues to grow, looking to designers including Yohji Yamamoto, Taylor and Kowtow for inspiration and guidance. “As a designer I feel that I have a responsibility to express my creativity with as little harm done as possible, to either the environment or the people who have made my fabric.” Butler’s passion for sustainability was celebrated with a trip to India where she spent five weeks learning about ethical processes of garment production, from seed to completed garment after being awarded the Prime Minister’s Scholarship for Asia.

In line with her sustainable approach to design, it is no surprise that Butler favours natural fibres over synthetics. “It’s un-dyed, so I coloured it blue with red cabbage, orange with onion and even rusted it. ” Butler has her sights set on a Master’s Degree specialising in sustainable fashion, with possible travel on the horizon. “My dream job would be to work within an established brand and help adjust their practices to establish a more sustainable way of creating fashion and to future-proof their business.”

Whitecliffe College of Art and Design

REWARDING EXCELLENCE Walker Sotech Machinery and Brother NZ have joined forces to reward up-and-coming designers from the country’s leading tertiary providers with a new Brother industrial sewing machine. Two top students, Kimberly Ruwhiu from AUT and Grace Redgrave from Massey have already received their prizes and look forward to putting them to great use.

“We look at students coming out as future business leaders of tomorrow and want to develop great working relationships with all our customers, as well as students who are the future,” said Bruce Page, director/ sales manager at Walker Sotech.

“The feedback from the training institutes has been outstanding, the tutors loved the idea and the students are so excited when they find out what they have won.” The company has a history of working with New Zealand polytechnics and trialled the machine giveaway last year, aiming to follow students and their careers by doing so.

Current director and business manager of Walker Sotech, Rajesh Narsey will become the new managing director from 2016 and believes the new ideas being designed and the internet has been a great influence on young designers. “This year’s AUT Rookie show was an example of how exciting NZ fashion is and a glimpse into the future of the industry. Walker Sotech is looking to increase its involvement in the garment industry’s development not just with students. The company has been around for over 35 years and is putting systems in place to be around for another 35. Other tertiary providers that will see top students receive a sewing machine are Wintec, Otago Polytechnic and Sewtec Fashion Academy.

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STUDENTlife

Natasha Loo

Nicola Luey

After leaving high school early, Natasha Loo knew she had to get a tertiary qualification if she had any chance of securing a career. Loo started with a diploma in graphic design before completing a full fashion design degree, but knew she needed more training if she was to enter the industry. Loo sought out the New Zealand Academy of Fashion to get her foot in the door, drawn to the idea of developing her pattern making skills.

“My experience was awesome, I had a teacher called Terry and she was amazing. She was so patient and explained everything really clearly. Although it was a lot to digest, she really encouraged active note taking and would explain processes until the class had a full understanding.”

After graduating, Loo compiled a portfolio and applied for a job at ilabb, was interviewed a couple of times and eventually landed her dream job. Having worked at ilabb as the apparel designer for two and a half years, Loo now has an intimate knowledge of the industry and works closely with the creative team from inception to completion of a garment.

“I love my job as a designer. It does have its ups and downs like any job, but mostly ups. I look forward to coming to work every day which is a pretty awesome feeling.”

With a lifelong love of art and creativity, Nicola Luey landed on a career path for fashion at the age of 10, knowing that this was going to be her unwavering passion for life. “I never fail to swoon at the work of Christopher Kane, Maison Margiela, Matty Bovan, Amber Day and Lindsey Degen,” said Luey.

For Luey, fashion is all about telling a story, with each of her designs having its own narrative. Sketching and construction happen simultaneously as Luey organically grows her concepts to the point where they are completely transformed from where she began. “I always start designing with a strong emotion I have in relation to something happening around me.

This then takes a visual form, I find I am attracted to ideas of nostalgia, pop culture, art movements and tongue-in-cheek humour.” Like a kid in a candy store, Luey is drawn to anything that has popping colours, prints, lively texture, sparkles and attitude, with each creation being a process of personal growth. Luey was recently awarded the AUT Eileen Kerr Memorial Award for Top Fashion Student of 2015 and hopes to take her success and build a label that allows for continued growth and education while experimenting with different design techniques. “I’m not sure what the future holds for me, but it will definitely involve learning or even making things abroad. There are so many cool things happening in so many places, and I want to be a part of it.”

New Zealand Academy of Fashion

Patterndrafting • 8 Saturdays • Construct Basic blocks • Learn the skills to fit the body • Unique and easy Pattern drafting method

REGISTER ONLINE FOR 2016 Level 5, 5 Short Street, Newmarket www.fashiondesign.co.nz

12 I December/January 2016

Auckland University of Technology

behind the business

STUDENTlife

Tekura Leota

Zuzana Kristofova

With a strong interest in streetwear, Tekura Leota decided to pursue a career in fashion in 2012, a big departure from her previous career in electronics.

“My interest in fashion started when I lost someone very close to me. He always encouraged me to do better and chase my goals,” said Leota.

The mother of two already has a long list of accolades under her belt, having had designs showcased at the Miss World (NZ) pageant, participating in the Manukau En Vogue fashion show two years running and sweeping up the NZ Apparel Magazine Most Commercial award in 2014.

“I wasn’t prepared for the feedback from the show and for the sales requests that it lead to.”

Leota uses her love of street wear and cook island upbringing to develop innovative designs for the market, hoping to change the space of modern street wear and leave her mark on the world.

“My inspiration has always come from my brothers, TLC, Aaliyah, Rihanna and the general hip hop scene.”

Having already started a business, Royal Reign Amalgamated Streetwear, Leota hopes to build her brand and aesthetic further an open her own hip-hop themed retail store, but has no immediate plans of leaving New Zealand.

“At this point, it’s really important for me to stay true to myself as a designer as I am still in the process of development.”

As an artistic child, Zuzana Kristofova spent her upbringing switching between drawing and dressing dolls. Her first dress took form when she was only eight years old, showing an early passion for fashion and textiles. Kristofova moved to New Zealand from Czechoslovakia 13 years ago, surrounded by a family who were all heavily involved in different crafts including knitting, crochet and sewing.

Quality and attention to detail is key for Kristofova, who looks to periods of time where garments were constructed to the highest standards. Alongside her classmate Sophia Butler, Kristofova was awarded the Prime Minister’s Scholarship for Asia and travelled to India for five weeks to research ethical and sustainable textile and fashion production. “By visiting traditional weaving villages, my appreciation for textile and its production has grown.

This year I am creating a collection to express that tradition, by using hand woven cotton through a combination of techniques.” While Kristofova strives to produce sustainable fashion, education is top of mind and she hopes to help the industry move towards more ethical choices. “Quality does not only come through the materials and finishings, quality comes through considering the processes and people involved in production.” Moving forward, Kristofova plans on building her label, House of Zed, and hopes that it can serve as an inspiration for women who appreciate timeless, elegant clothing that is both ethical and sustainable.

Sewtec Fashion Academy

Whitecliffe College of Art and Design

nuts&BOLTS

Grace Riggir Operations and Product Innovation Manager

It is a taxing job having to consistently out-do your work from season to season, but for operations and product innovation manager, Grace Riggir, every day is a new adventure. Riggir started at Deadly Ponies just under three years ago, back when the company had only a team of three.

“Over the last two years, we have grown considerably, and now have over 25 team members.

With this has come considerable change, both within my role and the company in general. We are a welloiled machine now,” said Riggir.

Born the middle child of three sisters, Riggir grew up in Whangarei with a mother who would create all the family clothes.

“I started young choosing patterns, fabric, trims and designing looks my mother would make into reality for me. This of course had me hooked on the fashion industry.”

She then went on to complete a design degree, majoring in textiles, working for various New Zealand designers in retail stores before landing the job at Deadly Ponies.

Riggir is responsible for the team, ensuring production and the workroom runs as smooth and efficient as possible while continuing to develop and improve designs, quality and craftsmanship.

“The most vital element to any role, particularly management, is communication. Organisation, time management, initiative, analytical thinking, problem solving and creativity are all vital too.”

It would be a lot to say Riggir is married to her

work, but she does describe herself as an obsessive type who can only find time to continue creating.

“My style as described by my boyfriend is an unmade bed look, so nothing is too taxing although I do like to think chic. I get great fulfilment from making.”

Riggir draws inspiration from her surroundings, but also looks to customer feedback and her team brainstorming meetings for new ideas.

“It is just as exciting creating bespoke hardware and new leather as it is developing new lines.”

Like with most New Zealand brands, getting a balance between supporting New Zealand suppliers and managing international commitments has proven difficult, but slowly Riggir has collected skilled craftspeople for the workroom, with the focus now being on finding materials and skills that can not be sourced in New Zealand.

“Any day can be a mixture of touching base with team members, the product development team, retail division and operations team or ensuring our team vision is driven, focussed and on track. I also spend a lot of time working with suppliers, developing new materials and ensuring logistically what we need for our collections are all in order too.”

The continued growth for Deadly Ponies is all part of the 10-year plan Riggir and the team have put forward, who consider themselves family and are dedicated to helping the brand reach new heights.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 13

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14 I December/January 2016

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apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 15

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