$ 9.00
DECEMBER/JANUARY 2018 I VOL 51 I NO 1
pg 13
Expecting Opportunity pg 6 Easy, Peasy, Lemon Squeezy pg 8 Student Life pg 10
graduating class starting on page 10. Congratulations 2017 graduates! We wish you every success as you begin your careers in this exciting, ever-changing industry.
Heaven Or Hell?
RECRUITMENT
Call in the troops! It’s time to get graduates on board. What better way to grow the industry than by bringing on some fresh talent. Got a position available? Let us know and we’ll feature it on our Recruitment section online.
New year, new job, new you, right?
Let’s talk about CV’s. Let’s be honest, while your impeccabababale spelling and grammatikal skillz are orsome, you have already shown that you are not a good fit for that marketing job you’re applying for. Same goes for adding in your star sign or the use of language you don’t know how to use in conversation. Remember that what you did at school, all those co-curricular activities that Mum was proud of – don’t count. You can briefly mention your high school achievements if you were captain of a sports team (in your final year) or a prefect, that shows you are a good team player and leadership skills, particularly if you still play the sport. Keep your experiences relevant to the job. Don’t be afraid to keep it short and don’t be tempted to write a novel. It’s important to customise your CV and cover letter to each application, and to keep it to one page. Always provide references, and make that real ones. Don’t lie, don’t get your friends to provide references and if you are going to add a photo, make it a professional one, not one from Friday night drinks. No weird expressions, angles or filters. And please, please, please SPELL CHECK IT and then read it over. Cover letters can be powerful. With lack of experience or education, a strong cover letter that reflects your personality, commitment and drive can get you the interview. Skills can be taught, personality can’t; and sometimes fitting into a team is more important than having a master’s degree. Finally, switch your social channels and turn them to private. If you want them to remain public, at least give them a good scrub.
The Next Generation
Tragically, an HR manager was killed in a hit and run accident. As her soul arrived at the pearly gates, St. Peter welcomed her. “We would like to give you the opportunity to experience both heaven and hell so you can decide where you wish to spend eternity.” The HR manager suddenly finds herself on an escalator descending to Hell. When she arrived, she found herself stepping onto a beach of fine white sand with deep blue water lapping at her feet. A bar with gorgeous waiters served her cocktails. Many friendly faces welcomed her and laughed together reminiscing. She even met Satan who was very friendly and not at all like the evil devil she had believed he was. The evening was filled with drinks, dancing and jokes. She had a wonderful time, but was quickly whisked away to sample Heaven. Everyone in Hell waved and smiled goodbye as she disappeared into the clouds. When she arrived in Heaven, everyone was sitting around, quietly chatting, playing harps. The HR manager joined in and while it was pleasant, it wasn’t as much fun as Hell. When her time was up, St. Peter joined her. “So,” he said. “Where would you like to spend the rest of eternity?” Without hesitating, she replied. “Hell, no question. Heaven is ok, but I think I’m better suited to Hell.” St. Peter nodded and sent her down the escalator to Hell. She found herself in hot, dry, putrid smelling wilderness. For as far as she could see it was a wasteland filled with the stench of death. Everyone she met was now in rags picking up scraps to eat. Satan came up to welcome her. “I don’t understand,” she sobbed. “When I came before it was fabulous with a beach, drinks and a blue ocean. Now it’s a wasteland!” Satan looked at her and laughed: “That’s because yesterday we were recruiting you – now you’re on staff!”
caitlan@reviewmags.com PS: Happy Holidays from the team at Apparel Magazine @NZAPPAREL
ON THE COVER:
Every year I am impressed by the innovative concepts and designs coming through from our local talented students. See some of our favourites from this year’s
CHAIRMAN PUBLISHER GENERAL MANAGER EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR STAFF WRITER ADVERTISING SALES PHOTOGRAPHER
Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com Mark Fullerton - mark@reviewmags.com Ankita Singh - ankita@reviewmags.com Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com
2 I December 2017
SENIOR DESIGNER Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com GRAPHIC DESIGNER Tay James Marriott - tjames@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287 Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794
NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2017 NZ Apparel Magazine.
Dolce & Gabbana Generation Millennials: The New Renaissance
By Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana Who could miss Dolce & Gabbana’s recent (and very well documented) use of Millennial social media style icons in place of traditional models? The designer duo loves Millennials so much that they’ve put together a yearbooklike tome which documents Dolce & Gabbana’s high-profile obsession with the new generation. The book includes snaps from the biggest Dolce & Gabbana events of the last year, with candid snaps from Millennial-filled parties, front row selfies, runway shows and campaign photoshoots. Filling the book are the ‘It’ crowd made up of the offspring of celebrities and mega-influencers, including Sistine Stallone and Rafferty Law. The idea of creating a glossy spiral bound scrapbook inspired by a digital age is an irony worthy of Dolce and Gabbana’s extravagant approach.
MY ADIDAS COLORING BOOK By Davinci
Bring your favourite Adidas sneakers to life as you design your very own pair of kicks. This colouring book is for the true sneakerhead and boasts over one hundred pages of Adidas’ most popular shoes. Highlighting iconic styles from Superstar’s, Yeezy’s, to NMD’s – this book has them all. Each style has two identical drawings so you can experiment with different colour palettes and designs. The Davinci range of shoe colouring in books is highly sought after and made in the USA. This adult colouring book is for all ages and is the perfect holiday gift.
Handbags: A Love Story By Monica Botkier
Award-winning designer Monica Botkier celebrates seventy of the most coveted bags of the past seventy-five years from Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Hermès, Yves Saint Laurent, and many more international couture houses. Top bag designers Anya Hindmarch and Nancy Gonzalez also make an appearance. Luxury handbags with exquisite craftsmanship have a worldwide cult following. Botkier pays homage to these gorgeous objects of desire and the top couture houses and artists that have designed and produced them from the end of World War II to today. A story told in 200 stunning photographs, illustrations and advertisements, it also features an array of quotes, anecdotes, and interviews.
AUSTRALIA’S FASHION BUYING EVENT
SAT 10 — SUN 11 FEBRUARY 2018 ROYAL HALL OF INDUSTRIES SYDNEY
Discover the latest women’s apparel, footwear & accessories from Australia & beyond REGISTER TO VISIT: FASHIONEXPOSED.COM apparelmagazine.co.nz
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LAYERED LUXURY
FLORA MEETS FOOTWEAR Pat Menzies Shoes has teamed up with Flora n Fauna for the Christmas season. Located at their Karangahape Road store, botanical stylist Gemma Yeoman has turned the footwear store into a botanical wonderland. Based in Cross Street for the past two years, Yeoman
Muse Boutique has established a second store in Auckland and can be found in Ponsonby. The new location further established the women’s multi-brand store as a leading retail destination. Working with a large open plan and intimate dressing rooms, the interior design is based around a combination of simple geometric forms accentuated by ornate plaster mouldings. Referencing both the local vernacular of Ponsonby villas and imbuing the space with a European sensibility that mirrors Muse’s growing brand stable. The neutral palette highlighted travertine, brass, o-white plaster and refurnished Kauri. This curation of materials further emphasises Muse’s approach to tactile and layered luxury. Offering a sophisticated retail experience, the refurbished space aims to create a serene backdrop to allow Muse owner and buyer, Olivia Vincent, to explore her evolving vision of contemporary fashion.
is no stranger to K’ Road and has transformed spaces like Ostro, Ebisu, and Motion Sickness Studios. Longtime friend and fan of Pat Menzies, Yeoman jumped at the opportunity to work together. Her fresh botanical planters and style have given the footwear store a new spin.
THE CREATIVE SHOPKEEPER
Independent Wellington concept store The Service Depot is the only New Zealand store to feature in a book that showcases pioneering retail spaces around the globe. The Creative Shopkeeper was written and curated by Lucy Johnston and identifies the growing global movement of independent retailers thriving as hubs of enterprise, innovation and community in an internet-dominated society. “Despite many predictions that the internet and e-commerce would kill bricksand-mortar, independent retail is far from dead,” explained Johnston. “While big-chain retailers have suffered through lack of originality, new independent retailers are rapidly growing in number, rejuvenating neighbourhoods across the world.” Established 1999, The Service Depot was founded by Angela Gordon who treats the store as a versatile creative playground, or giant immersive dress up box. “It’s humbling to be recognised by The Creative Shopkeeper as part of the global independent retail revolution,” Gordon added.
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E-COMMERCE TURNS TO BRICKS AND MORTAR
Designer Wardrobe has opened its debut store on Boston Road in Grafton after a number of members requesting to try on garments. “We thought it was time to give it a go. We are still firmly an online business, but we feel it really complements our marketplace,” explained founder Donielle Brookes. “So far it has been a great success, and we have loved seeing our members in the store.” Having a bricks
Bruce Page SEWINGTIME/WALKER SOTECH
Rajesh Narsey (left) and Bruce Page (right).
and mortar store felt like the next step for their rental category on Designer Wardrobe she added. Brookes’ father is a builder and has created an array of fit-outs around Auckland like WORKSHOP in Newmarket and Made in CBD. Their new location was chosen so they could be closer to their investor and the opportunity came up to convert a lower apartment into a store. “Naturally, we all got brainstorming and decided to jump at the offer.” Most of their customers are renting garments for one-time events and want the option to see how it fits and feels before the day. “We want to create a welcoming and relaxed place where they feel like they are in a friend’s wardrobe picking an outfit to wear for the night.” Brookes created Designer Wardrobe in 2012 when she was diagnosed with thyroid cancer. She was off work and had to think fast to pay bills; she started with a Facebook page where users could buy, sell and rent designer items. “I had a wardrobe full of designer items but really wanted people to buy them that knew how special they were so that it would hold the value. Within weeks, she had thousands of members trading their pre-loved items. Aidan Bartlett, now CEO of Designer Wardrobe, joined Brookes to transform the Facebook group into a website and on the night of the launch, the site crashed due to too many viewers. After that, they got investors to take their brand to the next level. “We decided to join lighting lab business accelerator that we pitched Designer Wardrobe to investors after three months. That’s when Simon Moutter and Shane Bradley got involved and are now both directors and on our board.” After raising $1.7 million in May this year, Designer Wardrobe is launching a new website and app.
“As I was enjoying another Whitecliffe fashion show, our third student fashion show for the year with a couple more to attend, I don’t think I will make them all, but in some way, we will be supporting them and the next generation of designers coming through the industry. I was in discussions with Apparel editor Caitlan Mitchell on the industry and niche businesses; this got me thinking of what Walker Sotech had done over the last ten years, even from when I started with them as an apprentice 33 years ago. As everyone knows, the clothing manufacturing industry has slowly morphed over the last 20 years; the large factories have all but gone. And a lot of small niche businesses are replacing the large companies, and large ones are buying up competitors to keep market share. We have survived recessions, earthquakes and interesting government decisions, watched trends come and go as well as businesses. Walker Sotech also had to morph. In the last seven years, Walker Sotech has been really progressive, purchasing Sotech Marketing
INDUSTRY STALWART PASSES
The fashion industry lost one of its own last month. Digby Crompton the head of Parisian Neckwear was well known throughout the fashion industry. His lively interest in all things fashion and lovely sense of humour will be sadly missed, never more so than by the team at Apparel. His willingness to pass on his knowledge and unwavering support of the magazine from the very early days was always appreciated. Digby passed away peacefully surrounded by his family. Our sincere condolences to Digby’s family. His friendship and laughter will be sadly missed.
(embroidery machinery), brought in a new business partner (Rajesh Narsey, old friend, now Managing Director), a new name, and 16 months ago buying our major competitor Sewingtime NZ. With all this change, not only has it been great for us, it has been really great for the industry. Why? Because we are now sustainable for the next ten years plus and we plan to be around for the next 30 years. This gives our customers who seriously rely on our back up and maintenance services, which we now have a team of nine service technicians and last year we took on an apprentice technician, our first one in 30 years, and this is to cover New Zealand and the Pacific islands. The feedback we receive is giving our customers the confidence to invest in machinery for their businesses. Not only are we supporting business, but we are also now helping the next generation by supporting the learning institutes throughout the country. We are constantly talking to students, advising them, letting them know do’s and don’ts, pitfalls in dealing online even though we trade online. Making sure they don’t become victims of rogue operator’s that we know are hiding behind some online accounts. We enjoy helping people and businesses get the right machinery that will not only last a long time but become an asset in their future. So the Sewingtime/Walker Sotech team are looking forward to a positive future. P.S. Our Christchurch office has now moved into our new premises at 77A Brisbane St, Sydenham, so come on in and have a peek.”
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EXPECTING OPPORTUNITY: The growing maternity market Pregnancy, everyone’s doing it: But how about retailers? Katie Smith, Trend Analyst, EDITED Maternity is a two billion dollar a year business in the US alone, and with more women in work, for longer durations of their pregnancy, there are more developed bumps to dress in a wider range of apparel than ever before. While Kate Middleton’s pregnancy is expected to create an uplift in maternity sales, so too are the many celebrities and mommy bloggers documenting their pregnancies through social media. The upshot of all that is:
Maternity has grown 200%
That’s since the start of 2014. And the chart below shows pretty solid growth since early 2015 across some of the biggest retailers in both the US and UK.
Category expansion
Unlike other segments, categories in maternity have remained static through that growth. There’s only marginal wins for a retailer expanding their maternity
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assortment into categories like outerwear. Most of us know from the Christmas Day walk that we have coats in our wardrobes that can wrap around a modest bump. Instead, where maternity does well is on those essential day-to-day categories women will feel most comfortable in. One mostly overlooked opportunity is maternity activewear – its growth rate lags behind the rest of maternity, despite shifts in wellness awareness in society and the rise of pregnancyfriendly exercise like yoga and barre.
specific ‘maternity’ clothing’ – praise be for jersey. That’s why in the bestselling garments, there’s not a huge amount of trend. Instead, useful things like bump-hugging leggings and skinny jeans, nursing tops (which have grown 528% since 2013), black wrap dresses, striped tops and loose-fitting day dresses sell best.
It’s private label business
The biggest online retailers of maternity are Macy’s, ASOS, Nordstrom, Zalando and Boohoo. The brands with the most SKUs are all private label: ASOS Maternity, Motherhood Maternity, A Pea in a Pod (both Macy’s private label), New Look Maternity and Boohoo Maternity. Retailers are having to come up with their own lines because – despite the market growth – there still aren’t many brands getting involved.
Luxury takes leave from maternity
Luxury and maternity don’t go hand in hand. Naturally the high price point of luxury isn’t best suited to a silhouette that is only temporary. However, just 0.006% of the luxury market we track is maternity apparel – half of which is underwear – which seems like a missed opportunity given that 6 million women are pregnant in the US alone each year. Net-a-Porter has just 15 apparel items for maternity, ten of which are reduced to clear. Almost 3,000 items on Farfetch (2.5% of the womenswear offering) sounds more
Maternity price point The price architecture of maternity is shifting too. Emphasis is moving away from the lowest price points and has been absorbed by the $25-100 range, showing the uptick of mass market retailers Many women don’t want to spend a lot on maternity clothing. And some women get through their entire pregnancies without having to buy
promising. But click into the selection and you’ll see it is just that items described as ‘oversized’ are tagged for maternity. That includes sunglasses. Hatch does a great job, creating maternity clothes at a premium price point, with dresses for $260 and sweaters for $270. Their clothes are designed for women to wear beyond pregnancy – style-forward pieces that are clearly designed by someone who is a mother. Pregnant women don’t necessarily want clothes to ‘hide’ in. And if there’s a shopper that wants to put fashion first through her pregnancy, it’s the premium or luxury shopper. There is untapped opportunity here.
But aren’t we having fewer babies?
Globally the birth rate is in decline – most noticeably in the developed world. We’re depopulating as a result of an increase of women in the workplace and the fact that more of us are living in cities, with smaller homes and higher housing costs. On the one hand, if the average number of children in a family has fallen to 1.9 in the US and 1.8 in the UK, women may not feel the need to purchase an extensive maternity wardrobe. On the other, fewer children would place less financial pressure on families, allowing expectant parents more disposable income. Retail shouldn’t panic. There is big opportunity here. But just like anything in the industry right now – don’t do too much, instead do just enough of the right things.
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Emilia Wickstead Resene Happy
Calvin Klein Resene Bright Sun
hoever said orange is the new pink is seriously disturbed,” claimed Reese Witherspoon in Legally Blonde circa 2001. For approximately sixteen years, this remained true – but the Spring/Summer 2018 runways offered irrefutable proof that citrus hues as the new Millennial Pink are finally upon us. Across a multitude of shows, the contents of a fruit bowl provided designers with endless colour inspiration
8 I December 2017
Fenty X Puma Resene Sebedee
appropriate to the summer season. A few sources have eagerly proclaimed that Millennial Yellow is the hue du jour, but the emergence of an array of yellows and oranges in everything from sheeny metallic to soft pastel seem to point to a much more dynamic trend than that of 2017’s hottest shade. Oranges and yellows make an irrefutable statement and are more often than not worn by the bravest consumers. As such, the citrus trend is one which will lend itself more to the higher end and more high fashion brands.
Derek Lam Resene Cream Can
If you were looking for the intersection of modern streetwear and 80’s windsurfing chic, you would find that specific aesthetic within Rihanna’s Fenty X Puma Spring/Summer 2018 show. The neon hues, high cut swimsuits and vast amount of scuba fabric came together to give this collection its unmissable watersports vibe while modern trends peeked through the unique designs. Off the shoulder styles reigned supreme - a surprise considering many trend analysts considered exposed clavicles to be past its heyday. Orange made
several appearances, in a colour close to Resene Sebedee juxtaposed with complementary marigold yellow accents. Toggles are also having a moment in the sun, although the jandal stilettos were more divisive and probably won’t catch on. Speaking of opposing influences, Elisabetta Franchi’s collection combined Little House On The Prairie, Baroque-era France and Lara Croft from Tomb Raider. While the first two sound like they would mesh well, the latter fitted in surprisingly well. The Tomb Raider influence was felt through belting and harnesses, as well as the black thigh high boots which were paired with frilled lace mini dresses. Hats were the main feature and were the finishing touch to every outfit. The palette was also a contradiction - dramatic, stark monochromes stood out amongst soft lemon yellow hues (akin to Resene Drover), and western-style light wash denim. Calvin Klein’s collection was an artistic explosion at the start of New York Fashion Week, and a buttercup
Elisabetta Franchi Resene Drover
The retro surfer aesthetic has unexpectedly snuck into several collections and seems to be the microtrend of the incoming season. Isabel Marant, the darling of French girl-favoured fashion, crafted a succinct collection which exuded effortless chic (as per usual). Ruffles and broderie started things out in an innocent manner, and gave way to 80’s surfer styles with crochet swimwear, multi-coloured windbreakers and choker-length leis. Thick-soled strappy sandals and bold colour blocking completed the vibe. The palette
Colours available from
yellow dress near to Resene Bright Sun in rubber paired with pink elbow length gloves was re-posted all around Instagram heralding the beginning of Fashion Month. Designer Raf Simons drew inspiration from the American dream, and juxtaposed this with horror-film motifs, commenting succinctly on the state of modern America. With 307 mass shootings occurring within the continental US in only 309 days, the red paint splattered clothing took on a sobering significance. Amongst Simons’ designs, the 1950’s were an earmarked decade, with feminine tailoring and designs counteracted by their sporting-material fabrications. The shiny surfaces of his clothing emanated toughness - a life-proof uniform for wearers from which the political and social turmoil could simply be wiped away like an errant kitchen spill. The epitome of retro poolside glamour is no longer Miu Miu. Fellow Italian design guru, Emilio Pucci staged a silent takeover and has stealthily scored the
Isabel Marant Resene Bright Spark
Marc Jacobs Resene Dolly
also had an 80’s feel - deep greens mixed with purples, browns and yellow close to Resene Bright Spark. Emilia Wickstead always produces something along the lines of a high fashion, yet refined, dinner party and Spring/Summer 18 was no different. The collection was sculptural yet soft with a vintage feel and the typical Wickstead sense of modest restraint. A soft palette consisted of whites, pinks and blues. The occasional bold pops of colour came through in a bold yellow close to Resene Happy.
Resene ColorShops
best sun lounger. Pairing Jackie Onassis sunglasses with towels which swathed the heads of models, designer Massimo Giorgetti’s summery vision was an ode to Mediterranean styling and the heavily patterned history of Pucci. The swirling prints were made up of a soft palette - blues, greens, pinks and oranges (in Resene Consuela). Taking inspiration from Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone’s arguably most sartorially advanced character, Professor Quirrell, Marc Jacobs showed turbans for Spring/Summer. The turbans were jewel-hued, a perfect match to the collection which was vibrant, patterned and heavily sequined. In terms of design; Jacobs showed a wide-ranging collection, featuring key trends of the season - lightweight transeasonal layers and 1950’s femininity. There were fanny packs, oversized suiting and utilitarian 80’s-style sportswear. Très on trend. Yellow was lemon and electric - close to Resene Dolly.
www.resene.co.nz
Emilio Pucci Resene Consuela
Seventies utilitarian power dressing was the order of the day at Derek Lam. The collection was an effortless breath of fresh air during New York Fashion Week, with femalefriendly, wearable clothes. A nature-inspired palette included leafy greens, khakis and a buttery yellow hue close to Resene Cream Can.
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with all types of clothing whether they are in his collection or not. “I want someone to be able to buy a shirt and for it to work with their aesthetic no matter who they are.” Another collection by Wheatley focused on his love for chef uniforms where Wheatley played with the context of a chef uniform using
Twenty-two-year-old Wairata Warbrick has just finished her Bachelor of Design in Fashion with Honors at Massey University in Wellington. Warbrick grew up in the geothermal heart of Rotorua, Whakarewarewa, the living Māori village. “I have a bi-cultural background. My mother is a New Zealand European and my father is Māori,” said Warbrick. “I count myself as Tuhourangi/Ngati Wahiao but I also whakapapa to Ngati Rangatihi, Ngati Whakaue and Ngati Tuwharetoa.” In the Māori village, they have hosted visitors for over 200 years. As a child, Warbrick undoubtedly had a very active imagination and sense of style. “Fashion has allowed me to use my imagination and tell my own story.” Warbrick learnt to be independent and self-sufficient at Massey University while also learning the importance of planning. Her end of year collection was inspired by traditional Māori craft,
ancestral lands and histories. “I felt disconnected from my Māori heritage and wanted to delve deeper into this side of my identity because I had a very European upbringing.” The collection also pays homage to the beauty of the Pink and White Terraces, as well as acknowledging her ancestors that lost their lives on the night they were destroyed. She references traditional Māori garments such as Korowai with the function of wrapping in her designs and using embellishments to reference Taniko weaving. One of Warbrick’s favourite designers is Adrienne Whitewood, who is also Māori and from Rotorua. She admires her designs as they are very wearable and because Whitewood is inspired by Māori art and culture. “I would consider her a pioneer of the Rotorua fashion scene. She has made it more acceptable for other young and up and coming designers to base themselves
in Rotorua but compete on the world stage.” Her biggest challenge is creating Māori inspired garments without being stereotypical. “Creating authentic Māori designs that are inspired by Māori ideology, rather than just Māori aesthetics.” Warbrick’s older sister is about to finish her business degree and together have often thought about combing their skills. “Her providing the analytical skills and me the creativity to create a fashion design business.” Warbrick creates to have her story heard and to have it resonate with others. Her designs are her story and reflect her ancestry. “They empower me to grow as a bi-cultural woman,” she said. “My collection is a statement of embracing and actively learning my Māori culture. It shows and encourages walking the path between both cultures strongly and confidently.”
Adam Wheatley MASSEY UNIVERSITY, WELLINGTON
In 2002, Adam Wheatley and his family immigrated from the UK to New Zealand. Growing up in Auckland, Wheatley spent his first two years of his degree at AUT and then decided to switch to Massey in Wellington. “I needed to explore a fresh environment and move to somewhere new, so I chose to finish my bachelors in Wellington.” Fashion was something Wheatley never really cared about until 2012 when he was blown away by how ridiculous it all seemed. “I then got
Wairata Warbrick MASSEY UNIVERSITY, WELLINGTON
Create Your Future Bachelor of Design (Honours) Majors available in fashion design and textile design
Massey University Wellington creative.massey.ac.nz
10 I December 2017
When being sensible becomes suffocating, fight back with extravagance and chaos Millicent Grigg BDes (Hons) Fashion Design 2017
intrigued by it all and have been sucked into loving it ever since.” Intrigued by the creativity in the industry, Wheatley kept looking into
fashion more until he decided that designing clothes was what he wanted to do. Pushing himself to always do better and not to be scared to stand his ground was his most valuable lesson while studying. “Make your own decisions,” he said. “Failure is not always a bad thing.” His graduate collection was based on the shift in subculture due to the internet globalising everything. Wheatley wanted to recreate a sense of subculture as he believes clothing makes consumers feel a belonging to particular communities. “I’ve made an effort to create a more commercial collection with pieces that men can relate to while also pushing their confidence to be able to dress more independently.” The uniqueness of each garment is found in the details rather than overall. The idea is that every piece should be interchangeable
materials resembling tea towels and switching regular garment silhouettes into apron-type silhouettes or the idea of throwing and tying parts of garments over the shoulder or waist like tea towels. Wheatley believes that with menswear, men now seem to care a lot more about what they wear and said the market is growing for good quality menswear. “I just worry whether those who don’t understand how a garment is made can appreciate good quality. I think slowly this is happening,” he said. “Possibly the amount of advertising and endorsement through celebrity culture has changed the way men are thinking about fashion.” People inspire Wheatley’s work, specifically behaviour and quirky characteristics spark ideas. While his inspiration changes constantly, his friends are always a driving factor. Design is Wheatley’s passion. “Nothing beats coming up with a good idea. Sewing is great, but only when you know what you’re doing.” J W Anderson was one of the designers who pushed him into being more open minded with design. “Raf Simons during his time at
Meghan Williams
FASHION TECH MOST COMMERCIAL WINNER Sponsored by Apparel Magazine
Jil Sander was fantastic,” he added. “Both Dries Van Noten and Yohji Yamamoto I have always respected for creating sellable pieces without going overboard with design. Their combination of commercial clothing put with something different whether it was fabric, or patternmaking, is an approach I want to follow in my design.” Moving deeper into his career, Wheatley said his biggest challenge is to find out who he is as a designer and what makes one of his garments different to the rest of the world. The 21-year-old has so much time to work hard to try and build something for himself and is lucky to have a clear idea of what he needs to work towards. “I’m aiming to start something next year in Auckland.”
FASHION @ SIT ENROL NOW FOR 2018 AND LAUNCH YOUR FUTURE!
As a child, Meghan Williams loved playing with Barbie and Woodkins Dress Up Dolls. The ability to create different outfits from scraps of material was fascinating to her. With support throughout her schooling life towards her passion for fashion, Williams chose New Zealand Fashion Tech to further her education. An essential part of her time at Fashion Tech was learning how to digitise patterns on PAD and archiving patterns and blocks. Williams presented three looks in her end of year show and walked away with the Most Commercial prize, sponsored by Apparel Magazine. “It was such a surprise, and I am extremely grateful for it,” she said. For this collection, Williams wanted to create an effortless silhouette that celebrates the feminine figure. “Especially the back and the curve from the waist to hips. I chose linen as it is durable, feels good next to the skin and has exceptional coolness in hot weather.” The ability to create anything she imagines is what inspires Williams. She would love to work with top designers to gain industry insight. In the future, Williams would also
like to open a store after she has a better understanding of the industry. She has found that there isn’t much support in the industry for emerging designers. “Talented young designers are trying to survive in an industry where garments have a brief shelf life. Garments are expensive to produce, specifically if you want to keep it local.” Williams really enjoys e-commerce and the online side of things and would like to pursue this.
ªGraduate Diploma in Fashion (Design and Technology) ªBachelor of Fashion (Design and Technology) ªNew Zealand Diploma in Fashion Design (Level 6) ªNew Zealand Diploma in Fashion (Level 5) ªNew Zealand Certificate in Fashion (Level 4)
3rd year Bachelor of Fashion collection - Penelope Colling
Luke Dawson - SIT Bachelor of Fashion with his collection at 2017 NZ Fashion Week
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April Gourdie AUT
April Gourdie started her Bachelor of Design majoring in Textiles at Massey University in Wellington and moved to AUT in Auckland for her final year. Gourdie is a big believer in selfexpression through clothing. This year she fell in love with the Shima Seiki digital knitting machines and found that learning how to use new technology is incredibly important in maintaining innovation and setting yourself apart from others on more than just an aesthetic level. “I love collecting things that remind me of my childhood,” said Gourdie. “Playing dress ups was a big part of my childhood, and I spent a lot of my time making clothing for my toys.” This translated into Gourdie wanting to encourage people to express themselves in what they put on their body. Gourdie chose textiles because it was the perfect mixture of art and fashion. “I have always seen textiles with a view to incorporate fashion and other applications for the body.”
Showcasing five looks at the AUT Rookie show, Gourdie was happy she managed to make some accessories such as handbags, earrings, glasses to push her collection that bit further. “It also meant I just got to have some fun towards the end and really complete my looks in a very playful way.” Toying with the concept of escapism, Gourdie explored nostalgia and digital immersion for her end of year collection. Using a stimulating colour palette and quirky child-like doodles, she created another world that encouraged her audience’s imagination to wander. “I designed, programmed and knitted the garments myself. I loved having total freedom to create the textiles as it allowed me to play around with pattern placement and colour blocking.” Rei Kawakubo, Jeremy Scott, Moschino, Camille Walala, Atelier Bingo and Daniel Pallilo are just a few of the designers who inspired Gourdie to jump into the fashion industry. “I like to embrace the sense of not growing up. I love artists like Jean-Michel Basquiat. If I get lost for inspiration I document colours and textures in my immediate daily environments,” she added. Gourdie is also very interested in digitalisation in society and human interaction with technology, exploring how people now live in multiple realities and dimensions.
Gourdie interned at Stand Issue, Sabatini, Hawes and Freer, Juliette Hogan, and James Dunlop Textiles. “I have learned an incredible amount from interning, as it is a completely different type of knowledge compared to what you are exposed to at university,” she said. Her most significant challenge moving into the industry is maintaining a point of difference. Gourdie believes technology is an avenue for endless new possibilities regarding what one can create. Something she has also been trying to navigate recently is the balance between unrestricted creative license and commercial consideration, and what this means in the role of the designer in the industry. Already, Gourdie has a strong social media presence which is an easy and effective platform for self-promotion. Showcasing her designs in runway shows and competitions in New Zealand and overseas are great for exposure as well. Now moving further into her career in the fashion industry, Gourdie wants to absorb as much knowledge as possible. “I would love to start my own brand, but I also know I need experience in the industry to understand where I need to place myself and why. I think knitwear is hugely untouched and under-considered and I would love to be able to pursue this in a creative and commercial capacity.”
translates to ‘to sheet apart’. “It’s also a small pun as my last name is Coutie and is pronounced the same way,” he said. Coutie explained that he has forgotten how he got into fashion, but simply remembers being inspired by video game characters and found himself appreciating someone who uses dress as a form of identity. Eight looks from his Toa collection were featured at New Zealand Fashion Week in the Miramoda show. “They are an amazing crew, and it was a privilege to show my work under their name.” This collection is about heroism, bravery, and finding strength and balance. “I used a lot of soft linens and silks against some heavy bull denim, creating quite a contrast.”
Lela Jacobs took Coutie under her wing for a couple of weeks in April to do some interning. He also helped Jacobs at fashion week. “It was an incredible experience, she’s so friendly and engaging with people she works with.” Fascinated with certain cultures and occupations that require a particular type of dress, Coutie is inspired by garments that embed what you do or believe. While at Massey, Coutie said the most important thing he learned was to practice what you preach. He added that sewing is an invaluable skill to have. “I think once you’ve reached a certain skill in sewing, it can be very liberating. You start to understand that anything is possible with fabric, scissors and a machine.”
Jacob Coutie
MASSEY UNIVERSITY, WELLINGTON
Originally from the Waikato, Jacob Coutie is based in Wellington for the past four years while studying at Massey University. His brand is currently working under the name Kuti, which is te reo Māori and
12 I December 2017
BRINGING AN ADVENTUROUS HEART TO FASHION
cover story
Fashion design has always been a passion for Lyndon Sheehan. A self-described “skater kid”, he was making his own stencils and sewing them onto t-shirts as a teenager. Now, the 29-year-old has formalised that passion with a fashion degree – he’s just graduated with a Bachelor of Creative Industries from Toi Ohomai Institute of Technology – and is already making waves in the fashion world by taking out two awards at the recent Hokonui Design Awards and winning a Project Ignite scholarship to help launch his brand, Forest Lane. Aware of a growing call for sustainability in fashion, Lyndon ensures all the materials he uses are as natural as possible – right down to the cotton, clips and metal. “Activism has been in fashion for a while but I think it’s growing as people become more aware
of the effects of consumerism on the environment. As fast fashion is growing, so is slow fashion – people have more understanding of why it’s important.” It’s an ethos that is at the heart of Forest Lane. “I created Forest Lane with a specific market in mind - ‘the adventurous heart with a designer taste’. It will appeal to an outdoorsy city dweller. The person who is going away hiking on the weekend, but living in the city during the week. They have a love for the outdoors but are in tune with trend-based design that is sustainable. They are forward-thinking, and they care about what they buy and consume.” The former NZ Olympic skier says his designs are inspired by the New Zealand’s landscape, scenery and natural environment. “I love being outdoors – that’s where my values have come from. My kids might not be able to ski or surf
I wanted to create something trend-based but meaningful and bring awareness without it being in your face. the way I have if the oceans are too polluted. That informs my design. I wanted to create something trend-based but meaningful and bring awareness without it being in your face.” “That’s what you get in the [Bachelor of Creative Industries] degree; you begin to see the difference between
something that is just pretty, and appreciate how it is art. It changes your thinking.” Forest Lane is now taking pre-orders for February delivery. For more information visit www.forestlane.co.nz. To find out more about Toi Ohomai, visit www.toiohomai.ac.nz.
SIT Accommodation Bursary With a change in government and the announcement of the implementation of a free tertiary education policy from the beginning of 2018, students beginning their studies next year have a wealth of opportunity available.
permanent residents residing in New Zealand while studying, and applies to almost all courses, both on campus and by SIT2LRN distance learning. In addition, SIT will also be offering the Mayor Tim Accommodation Bursary from 2018 for all students eligible for the Government’s Fees Free policy. Students who are eligible, as first year, first time tertiary students, will be offered shared accommodation at SIT’s apartments in Invercargill for free, or alternatively, $100 per week for 40 weeks’ accommodation supplement, regardless of whether the student is living at home or renting in Invercargill. Final conditions of SIT’s free accommodation offer will be released with the Government’s finalisation of the free tertiary education policy. SIT is excited to be able to offer all students affordable, quality education. Apply now to launch your future.
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