Apparel Magazine | August/September 2021 by Review Publishing Ltd

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August/September 2021 I VOL 54 I NO 4

fashionable reads

editor's note

Little Book of Louis Vuitton

RACK RENTAL: THE FUTURE OF RETAIL Opening a retail store is no small feat. Most emerging designers, and even some established designers, cannot afford this in today’s environment. Rent prices have skyrocketed, a global pandemic still looms, and the world of ecommerce is completely flooded. So I was really excited to hear that luxury retailer The Shelter in the heart of Ponsonby, Auckland, has come up with a new accessible solution. Rack rental. With the cost of having your own retail offering out of reach for most, this is a fantastic affordable opportunity to showcase your talent to their 10,000+ customer base. For those who don’t know, The Shelter is a curated lifestyle destination popular for its experimental and explorative traits. It is one of the most fashionable retailers in New Zealand and the team is dedicated to promoting and supporting the New Zealand fashion industry and its emerging designers. Rack rental is super simple, it’s an extremely affordable monthly subscription to showcase and sell your designs alongside top New Zealand and international luxury brands in this prime retail space. Not only the rack itself, but they have also bundled in a few other opportunities to layer your selling experience. Including different

elements like social media features, newsletter inclusions, brand-led in-store activation, and a window display opportunity. This is a great platform to test the waters and gain confidence to sell your garments. The Shelter are looking for designers to apply via office@theshelter.co.nz with their brand identity book, two recent season lookbooks, and a cover letter explaining how you would utilise this opportunity. You can find more information on the full packages at www.theshelteronline.com.

– Vicki Taylor, Creative Director of The Shelter

behind APPAREL...

Peter Mitchell

ISSN 1171-2287 (Print) ISSN 2744-5976 (Online)

Tania Walters

Retail 6, 2 Ruskin Street, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 304 0142 Email: edit@reviewmags.com

Kieran Mitchell Sarah Mitchell Caitlan Mitchell Janet Guan Caroline Boe Raymund Sarmiento, Debby Wei

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

Black Designers in American Fashion

Edited By Elizabeth Way From Elizabeth Keckly’s design as a freewoman for Abraham Lincoln’s wife, to flamboyant clothing showcased by Patrick Kelly in Paris. Black designers have made major contributions to American fashion. However, many of their achievements have been unrecognised. This book uncovers hidden histories of Black designers at a time when conversations about representation and racialised experiences in the fashion industry have reached all-time highs.

The Perfume Companion

The retail arena is like your own showroom. You can invite your clients into your own environment, a world that is important to the designer’s vision. I wanted to help bridge the gap for young designers to create a professional retail experience for their brand. An in-store presentation and the constant client interactions that come with a retail presence is an invaluable tool and an important learning curve for designers. It’s also a great branding opportunity. Today’s costs of rental spaces, store fit-outs and the ever increasing wage costs inhibit this experience for a young brand, so we created this opportunity to experience the great parts of retail. They can sit their brand side by side leading New Zealand and international designers and by being part of this they get to create their own environment around their rack, they choose what stock they want to show and we keep their brand all together in their space creating their brand experience within our retail store.

CHAIRMAN PUBLISHER ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE CONTENT MANAGERS GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM

By Karen Homer A pocket-sized and fully illustrated story of one of the world’s most luxurious fashion houses. Louis Vuitton’s monogrammed bags have been seen on the arms of celebrities and royals alike for over 150 years. This book details the global expansion of the brand in the 1980s, the creation of the powerful fashion conglomerate LVMH, and the appointment in 1997 of Marc Jacobs, this is the story of a transformation from luggage company to high-fashion label.

This magazine is published monthly under license. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to Review Publishing Co Ltd. This magazine is a platform for the industry and may include content that expresses views and opinions by contributing writers. Content is attributed to the author, and these opinions and the view/s are those of the author/s. They do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of any other agency, organisation, employer or company. The opinions and material published in this edition are not necessarily those of the publishers unless expressly stated. All material appearing in the magazine, website and social media platforms is copyright and may only be reproduced with the written consent of the publisher. Copyright 2021

By Sarah McCartney and Samantha Scriven The Perfume Companion is a beautifully illustrated compendium of almost 500 recommended scents, designed to help you pick out your next signature scent. Perfumes have the power to evoke treasured memories, make us feel fabulous, and help us express our best self. This book covers all sorts of scents, from bargain finds to luxury treasures. With insider information about how perfumes are really made, it’s time to discover hundreds of new fragrances to share your own memories with.

A History of Women in Men’s Clothes: From Cross-Dressing to Empowerment

By Norena Shopland Traditionally, historic women have been seen as bound by social conventions, unable to travel unless accompanied, and limited in their ability to essentially; do whatever they want, when they want. Thousands of women have defy these social and Biblical restrictions for a number of reasons. This book looks at those thousands of individuals who broke conventions in the only way they could; by disguising themselves either for a brief moment, or a whole life. These are stories of women who simply dressed the way they did to defy social conventions and to live freely, to those who crossdressed to express themselves; nonetheless, this is women’s fight to wear trousers.

CALLING ALL EMERGING DESIGNERS DO YOU WANT TO STOCK YOUR DESIGNS AT THE SHELTER? WE ARE LOOKING FOR TALENTED INDEPENDENT DESIGNERS TO SHOWCASE THEIR COLLECTIONS

CONTACT OFFICE@THESHELTER.CO.NZ FOR MORE INFORMATION WWW.THESHELTER.CO.NZ

fast five

KOWTOW’S NEW UNISEX COLLECTION

NEW OWNER OF SEWINGTIME NZ

By questioning the convention of gender, Kowtow presents a unisex capsule collection that provides space for anyone who is embracing a change in society. With a focus on easy dressing, the collection is the epitome of an essential and modular wardrobe. “This isn’t a moment for us. Our design has always favoured cuts that fit off the body and encourage the wearer to build their own silhouette. It’s not about trying to dress one way or another, but to rethink how we dress,” explained Gosia Piatek, Founder and Creative Director, Kowtow. Bold grass-greens, workwear-blues, and lilac dance is seen throughout this fun collection. Clean shapes and curved lines highlights fluidity, while precise details make universally flattering unisex silhouettes.

After 15 years of first buying into Walker Sotech Machinery, (Walker Howley at the time) Bruce Page has become the sole owner of Sewingtime NZ. Bruce got his first steps in the industry as an apprentice for Walker Sotech ( John H Walker at the time) 38 years ago, then in 2017 Walker Sotech bought Sewingtime NZ and morphed the two together. Passionate about the New Zealand fashion industry, Sewingtime NZ work with learning institutes throughout the country and are constantly advising students and emerging designers. With a team of technicians, you can always rely on Sewingtime NZ for the best equipment and ongoing support and maintenance. “We enjoy helping people and businesses get the right machinery that will not only last a long time but become an asset in their future.”

I WANT TO KNOW WHAT I’M WEARING. STANDARD 100 by OEKOTEX® enables textile raw, intermediate and end products to be tested and certified at all processing stages. To date more than 160,000 certificates have been issued and the OEKO-TEX® label has been awarded to millions of products.TESTEX tests and certifies – worldwide with Swiss reliability Find more information at www.testex.com | melbourne@testex.com | auckland@testex.com

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

TAKE CONTROL NOW Self-check every. Single. Month. ghd are launching their 17th annual limited edition pink collection and campaign, TAKE CONTROL NOW, in support of breast cancer charities. $20 of each tool sold goes towards the National Breast Cancer Foundation New Zealand. This year, ghd has partnered with eight incredible muses for the 2021 campaign, to communicate a powerful message: the importance of self-checking for yourself and your loved ones. The limited-edition collection features the phrase “Take Control Now” on the styling tools; a reminder to self-check for signs of breast cancer.

A REVOLUTIONARY SKINCARE COLLECTION ADDITION

CHAMPION UNVEILS SECOND CAPSULE IN MUHAMMAD ALI COLLECTION

Innovative Kiwi company Jeuneora took the beauty industry by storm with the launch of its skincare range earlier this year, The Essential Seven. Now, the game-changing range is expanding with the addition of their new SupearlaNova Hydrating Face Polish. The SupearlaNova Hydrating Face Polish is an oil-based gel-tomilk sparkling exfoliator that purifies and smooths even the most sensitive of skin. This beauty hero uses real, upcycled crushed pearls to gently buff skin, removing all impurities to reveal a smoother, brighter, more even skin tone without over-drying. “We created SupearlaNova because we saw the need and demand for a physical exfoliator that’s active enough to do the job, but gentle enough to not irritate your skin,” said CEO and Founder of Jeuneora, Monique Kaminski.

Champion’s Muhammad Ali collection features unique athletic accents, iconic silhouettes, luxe fabrics and voluminous draping. The men’s and women’s apparel includes Reverse Weave hoodies, quarter-zip pullovers, joggers, shorts, graphic tees, crop tops, bike shorts, hats, and a special satin boxing robe. The Capsule will showcase new designs and fresh colours, fabricated to evoke the ethos of the sports legend during his inspirational gold medal win during the 1960 Games in Rome as an 18-year-old. The details of this capsule are based on the 190 Games historic location and team uniforms. “Muhammad Ali was an artist in the ring, and a champion of the people outside of it, inspiring his fans across the globe to be their very best,” said Jon Ram, group president of global activewear for HanesBrands.

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The faces of

INDUSTRY We sat down with three key members of our local industry who have been working behind the scenes. These crucial businesses have been servicing the New Zealand fashion industry for more than two decades.

en Slad n i th

TERRY APPAREL

erry Apparel has been servicing the fashion industry for more than 30 years. The company operates within a multitude of industries with its offering of high-quality threads in New Zealand. Though the company’s main focus is within the fashion industry, owner, Gethin Sladen, understands that the threads he supplies can easily transfer to other industries such as interior furnishings. Terry Apparel sources product from different principles all over the globe. Whatever thread you may be after, Terry Apparel will have it on hand ready for your next collection, launch, or project. Being in the trade for 18 years, and since taking over Terry Apparel back in 2012, Sladen has valuable industry experience under his belt. He stated that the industry is ultimately price driven as a result of the behavioural trends of fashion houses. When he started, a lot of fashion labels were predominantly manufactured in New Zealand, thus, the industry was at its peak

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economically. Not long after, countries like Fiji and China came into the picture and offered their services for a fraction of the price. Fashion houses saw this as a massive opportunity to make higher margins. “Now that a lot of manufacturing is done offshore, it means that the supply chain of raw material is getting harder and harder – and because of that, prices are going up,” explained Sladen. Although, the prices are getting higher for raw materials, the bigger fashion houses are still set on purchasing raw materials at a lower price because they are used to it. Moreover, the fashion industry is becoming more ‘consumable for the consumer’ – meaning the quality of the products have taken a downward slope. With manufacturing done offshore, we’ve seen a trend of the buying behaviour of the consumer being more ‘disposable’. Consumers now won’t complain if a shirt shrinks after just a single wash, as they are happy to have bought it at a fraction of the cost it even takes to make it.

“You buy a jacket now, you buy it for a season, you don’t buy it for life,” stated Sladen. Terry Apparel’s point of difference is that they are proud to carry a large range of threads for all applications, and have low minimums available with quick delivery for non-stocked shades. Their customers have the luxury to pick and choose precisely what they are after within a wealth of selection. “We carry it, to join your product, that’s our goal.” Terry Apparel is now looking at expanding their colour range even further by bringing even more colour in – 400 of every colour for the popular Mara thread, in the 70-thread for drill and 30 for top stitch. Currently all 400 stocked in the 100 for general purpose - ex Terry Apparel in Auckland. “If someone rings up and they want a particular colour, Terry Apparel will have it.” For a sample card, or to enquire about Terry Apparel, email Gethin at gethin@terrys.co.nz, or call 09.966.1832.

industry focus

APPAREL LINE

pparel Line has grown from strength to strength in hanging transport and standard carton and satchel courier services. “Our service speaks for itself. Apparel Line is experiencing significant growth of about 20 percent every year, purely through word of mouth from satisfied customers,” explained Wendy Haresnape, Director at Apparel Line. When delivering with Apparel Line, your garments are picked up daily or when required by Apparel Line’s outstanding team of drivers. Once picked up, it will make its way back to

the depot, where it is then sorted into different regions across New Zealand. On its way out of the depot to retailers, each item of clothing is stored in garment bags that are kept hung from collection to delivery in Apparel Line’s custom delivery vans. Gone are the days of creased clothing. Retail staff no longer need to steam every piece that goes up in store, saving time and money. Each step of the delivery process is simple to follow with Apparel Line’s Track and Trace system. You are never left wondering when your precious freight will arrive or where it is located.

“Our customers can be assured that their queries will be left in capable hands, and that we aim to keep customers informed until their query is resolved.” Being in the industry for as long as Apparel Line has been, the company’s bountiful experience will ensure the delivery of your precious garments is looked after at every step of the process. The service is designed for the apparel industry and is customised, as it should be. For all your apparel delivery needs, contact Wendy at cservice@apparelline.co.nz or call 0800 275 463.

"Make your packaging memorable. It's the window into your brand and identity." LABELS, TAGS, BAGS, badges SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING CONTACT THE EXPERTS +64 9 2550133 WWW.IMMAGO.COM

www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

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industry focus

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IMMAGO

Bruce Hadley is the Australian and New Zealand Business Manager at Immago. Born and bred in Auckland, Hadley had his first textile job when he was 22. After working in the trims supply industry for more than a decade, he then joined Immago in 1996, known then as Labelweavers to set up their Fiji plant.

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hile working for Immago, he went to Fiji to establish a weaving plant in Suva and spent four years there before returning to New Zealand. Hadley then moved to Hong Kong in 2011 for six years to run the Asian operation before returning to New Zealand in 2018. Immago has been in business for more than 50 years, supplying labels, tags, and badges to New Zealand designers and retailers. Hadley was the first in his family ever to step foot into the fashion industry. He came into the industry with a sales focus and learnt everything he knows now along the way. “It was much easier back then, as I could walk into a garment factory, and spend two hours walking the lines, and see where both my products were being used, and the opportunities for other products,” explained Hadley. Currently, Immago is New Zealand owned and have operations in New Zealand, Australia, Hong Kong, Vietnam, China and Fiji. The most valuable lesson Hadley has learnt while being in this industry is that you never stop learning. “The industry is constantly changing and moving, and you either evolve or die.” When Hadley was based in Asia, he was lucky enough to visit more than a hundred factories. “Most of these are state-of-the-art factories, and their systems are the equal of any in the world. So, you cannot judge a book by its cover, as what’s hidden behind the doors is often a gem.” Hadley loves visiting clients in factories or workshops, as this is the time he can see the real faces behind the clothing and the brands. Like most New Zealand businesses, evolution is

vital. Immago has moved from a six-day, 24-hour manufacturing operation to one where all their production is sourced in Asia. “Their investment in new plant and technology has seen both the quality and turnaround improve remarkably. The investment we make is in having a seamless packaging solution for our network of clients, no matter if they are manufacturing down the road, or around the globe.” In Hadley’s opinion, the most significant shift in the fashion industry has been the move away from locally manufactured product. “We simply cannot compete in a global market where wages are significantly lower in other parts of the world. The apparel industry is like a big caravan, and it is readily transportable to wherever or whoever is offering the most competitive products.” Hadley explained that even if we wanted to bring manufacturing back into New Zealand, assuming businesses are willing to pay, New Zealand no longer has the skilled operators to make the clothing. Immago receives many enquiries around sustainability and eco-friendly products. There are many options out there – from recycled yarn labels to home compostable courier bags, and Immago can supply it all. “Most people have a conscience until they realise this conscience has a price. Over time, when these items become mainstream, the pricing will reduce. But until then, there is a price hurdle that needs to be combatted,” concluded Hadley. For any enquiries, email bruce.hadley@immago.com, or call +64 09 255 0133.

"Apparel Line deliver on time and deliver all product in protective cages, so the garments don't get damaged." - Retail Chain Business Owner

0800 275 463

cservice@apparelline.co.nz | www.apparelline.co.nz

cover story

THE KIWI BNPL PROVIDER THAT IS CHANGING HOW WE SHOP There’s a quiet revolution happening in our High Streets.

p until recently, credit cards were one of the few consumer credit options available to shoppers. But this has all changed with the rise of a new payment platform – Buy Now Pay Later (more commonly known as BNPL) – which is providing shoppers with a new and easy way to pay. Leading the charge is Laybuy, New Zealand’s only homegrown BNPL provider, which launched in Auckland in 2017. Founded by the Rohloff family around the kitchen table, Laybuy provides shoppers with a safe and easy alternative to credit cards by bringing the traditional lay-by model into the 21st century. Its integrated payment platform allows shoppers to buy goods now and pay them off weekly with six equal payments. Laybuy’s Co-Founder and Global Brand Director Robyn Rohloff says Laybuy’s appeal is obvious. “By allowing shoppers to spread their payments over six weeks, we help our customers buy the goods they want and love and fit them more easily into their budget,” added Rohloff. “Best of all, unlike credit cards, our customers never pay interest, ever! Shopping has never been easier.” Today, Laybuy has grown to become New Zealand’s leading BNPL provider, with a strong and growing presence in Australia and the UK. “This success is down to a genuine commitment to help make the lives of our customers and our merchant partners easier,” said Rohloff. And since launching in 2017, Laybuy has been a strong supporter of New Zealand Fashion Week. “At Laybuy, we love Kiwi fashion. Not only are we the official payment provider for Fashion

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Week, but we are also delighted to be an official sponsor and play a part in helping New Zealand designers showcase their collection to the world.” Such is the popularity of Laybuy, it is fast becoming the payment method of choice for a growing number of Kiwis. Nearly a third of New Zealanders report using BNPL in the past three years, while the average BNPL customer says they’ve used it around eight times in the last six months. And BNPL is not only proving popular in New Zealand. In fact, it is estimated that BNPL is used in 10 percent of all e-commerce transactions in Australia. So how do BNPL providers such as Laybuy make their money? “We charge retailers a small transaction fee at the point of sale, similar to credit card transaction fees,” explained Rohloff. “In return, retailers are provided with a riskfree and easy-to-use credit option that they can offer to their customers, helping them lift sales, increase conversion rates and improve average transaction values.” Rohloff added that Laybuy is committed to working collaboratively with merchant partners to help them activate sales. “This includes enabling them to take advantage of Laybuy’s extensive customer database for direct marketing through email, social media, as well as having a presence on Laybuy’s website,” said Rohloff. “And once a year, we hold Laybuy Mania, a heavily promoted sales event with exclusive deals for Laybuy customers.” No wonder BNPL is exploding in popularity. For more information, visit www.laybuy.com/nz.

HOW COVID HAS INFLATED FASHION PRICES Key learnings in price shifts for retailers to maximise profitability within tops, bottoms, outerwear, dresses and footwear. Looking through the lens of mass market fashion, we use data to back up how category prices have evolved as retailers shift their strategies amid the next normal. As retailers navigate the next phase of pandemic trading, they’ll need to understand how pricing structures have been disrupted to ensure they’re aligned to their competitors.

ECONOMIC SHIFTS

While the uncertainty surrounding COVID may have led shoppers to be more frugal with their spending, vaccine rollouts have helped reboot consumer confidence. In Q1, US consumers recorded the largest ever jump in disposable income. The British economy is reportedly growing at its fastest pace in 80 years and is forecasted to bounce back to pre-pandemic levels by the end of the year. The pandemic deemed fashion as a non-essential category. However, demand for newness surged as shopping habits return to normalcy, leading to the consumer price index swelling 5.4 percent in June. Women’s US apparel rose 1.6 percent compared to May and footwear up 7 percent - the sharpest uptick in over 30 years. Several luxury brands are reporting a rebound, partly owed to price inflation. EDITED recently recorded a 13 percent rise in luxury prices YoY.

TOPS PRICING

Menswear Zoom-friendly dressing contributed to top’s success. Catering to pentup demand for a transition out of the home wardrobe is evident by cardigan and sweater price increases. However, as premium loungewear becomes a mainstay through organic fabrics and highprofile collaborations, pricing for hoodies and sweatshirts have also spiked.

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UK tops outpace pre-pandemic prices in T-shirts and polo shirts as retailers capitalise on the success of prepleisure sporting trends such as golf and tenniscore. In contrast, shirt prices are at a two-year low, with an average price drop recorded at Bershka, Fat Face and Gap. Overall average pricing for loungewear stalwarts hoodies and sweatshirts hasn’t returned to 2019 levels, but is higher than 2020 in the trend’s heydey. (fig 1.) Womenswear Y2K essentials including tanks and cami tops are either the same or more affordable than in 2019 as US retailers gear their womenswear assortments towards Gen Z. The pricing on all other analysed styles has inflated compared to the past two years. Knitwear’s emergence as the new loungewear has led to price increases in cardigans and sweaters. With opposing silhouettes of oversized lounge styles and micro-cropped fits trending in the summer, retailers elevated their prices of all key items to command stronger margins. As casualisation has proven to go beyond a fleeting pandemic trend, hoodies and sweatshirts are retailing at higher prices. (fig 2.)

(fig 1.)

(fig 2.)

(fig 3.)

BOTTOMS PRICING

Bottoms are operating in lower price thresholds than in 2019 and 2020. Sweatpants and shorts are exceptions, with retailers raising their average prices as comfort and functionality remain an overarching trend for summer. Retailers that priced up Gorpcore-style technical shorts, jogging shorts and Bermudas reaped the rewards. Similarly, the pricing for bottoms in the UK fell, with sweatpants the only products that maintained its average price. As the pandemic caused retailers to position denim as a core basic, the price tag must match. Jeans are more expensive on average than last year, yet more

(fig 4.)

edited affordable than 2019. Uniqlo and Weekday have priced men’s jeans above 2020, while Zara is lower. (fig 3.) Womenswear In 2019, trousers were more expensive than jeans. WFH culture and denim’s post-pandemic comeback increased demand for the wardrobe staple. While still priced below previous years, jeans now have a more premium price tag than more formal slacks. An alreadyprofitable category, activewear’s success led retailers to raise the price of leggings. The average prices for sweatpants and jeans are at a twoyear high in the UK. With comfort underpinning the top-performing trends, operating in a higher price threshold for tactile fabrics and baggy, 90s-inspired fits would benefit retailers’ bottom lines. Meanwhile, skirt prices are more conservative as shorts swell, buoyed by the success of terry toweling and Bermuda styles. (fig 4.)

OUTERWEAR PRICING

Menswear The overall average price points in the US dropped significantly as newness in outerwear flooded the market. With COVID leading to formal silhouettes warranting steep discounts, the prices of blazers and suit jackets have contracted. Retailers protected their margins by pricing up functional styles like bikers, windbreakers and bomber jackets, the latter of which saw double-digit sell out rates across both regions. The average prices of new gilets, shackets and windbreakers are at a two-year high, indicating retailers can up their prices for styles with technical features. While suit jacket pricing has dropped off, its more casual counterpart, the blazer, has seen a rise. (fig 5.) Womenswear While knitwear prices have ballooned with retailers investing in premium products, outerwear has taken a hit. Though several categories are priced above 2020, they are still more accessible than in 2019. For spring/summer drops, bombers stood out as an exception. Women’s outerwear prices had more of an upwards trajectory in the UK. Shackets and trenchcoats emerged as cash cows, helping drive outerwear’s increase in sell outs, and experiencing a price lift upwards of £7.00 YoY. In contrast to the US, blazer pricing

is experiencing a post-pandemic revival - Monki, Uniqlo and Zara have all beefed up their average prices as demand continues to soar. (fig 6.)

| (fig 5.)

DRESSES PRICING

While the dress category was rocky during the pandemic, it heated up as restrictions eased. This allowed retailers to reposition their prices to capture spending from today’s consumers dressing up for lost time. Styles synonymous with going out have seen a price hike in the UK. However, the midi commands a record high average price point in this region, bolstered by inflation at Vero Moda and PrettyLittleThing. Contrastingly, the average price of maxi lengths has almost halved what they were in 2019. (fig 7.)

(fig 6.)

FOOTWEAR PRICING

Menswear A success story at every stage of the pandemic, retailers utilised demand for sneakers to command higher price points. Additionally, mass market retailers are emulating street and athleisure brands’ house shoe trend by investing in sliders, lifting sandal prices YoY. Boot prices align with prepandemic levels as retailers spec up hiking boots with performance and outdoor features, which consumers are willing to pay for. The growth in the smart/casual aesthetic that has risen from the pandemic has seen prices increase for more formal style shoes, such as suede loafers. (fig 8.) Womenswear Boots are back on consumers’ radar as Wellington and cowboy silhouettes reach cult status. The record-high average price of this traditional winter subcategory is indicative of growing demand. While comfort reigns supreme, the premium attached to court/pump shoes dwindles to an all-time low. J.Crew and Nasty Gal are among those offering their lowest average prices for this shape. Off the back of sleepwear’s rise, slippers are operating at a greater average price point compared to the past two years. With the Gorpcore aesthetic transcending categories, sandals prices are sitting above 2019 levels, with sports and hiking-inspired silhouettes driving interest for this category. Additionally, contemporary flip flops have helped elevate sandals pricing at a time when interest in high heels has waned. (fig 9.)

(fig 7.)

(fig 8.)

(fig 9.)

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accessory alert

Ho lly

H e ow

olly Simpson-Howe launched her eponymous jewellery label in 2011. After completing her Product Design degree, she moved onto Jewellery and Metal Smithing at the Dunedin School of Art. It all started with a few pieces of jewellery, which then turned into a collection, and she never looked back. “The idea of Holly Howe Collections was to house jewellery and objects, because of my product design background but it only ever ended up being jewellery,” Simpson-Howe explained. The first piece she made was a very simple faceted ring that she hand carved from wax and cast in sterling silver. Even though it was nearly ten years ago, the piece has not aged a day. “That’s what I love about the jewellery I create, they don’t follow trends or change every season. I see my work as an investment and something that ages with the wearer and becomes part of their story.” Following her studies, Simpson-Howe took a couple of years out to raise her daughter, and then the pandemic hit. During her maternity leave, she decided to start the business back up. She thought it would be a slow burn because of the pandemic, but this was not the case. It was like she had never left, the sales and commission pieces went through the roof. So much so that she needed another break. “I sat down and really asked myself what I wanted moving forward, how was I going to juggle being a full time stay at home mum and work on my business, something I also love.” With that came the brand

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name change to Holly Howe Jewellery. “It made me reassess what I wanted for my future as a jeweller,” she said. “It seemed fitting to have just my name Holly Howe Jewellery. It’s been a turning point for how I want to continue producing my work.” SimpsonHowe wasn’t going to be able to or wanted to create seasonal collections, the time involved in doing that is something that, for now, she can’t achieve. Smaller bodies of work sold directly online allow her the freedom to experiment with ideas and create new work. Architecture is a huge inspiration for her work along with geometric forms, patterns and details within nature, all facets of art and design. Her latest collection, Parallels, features eight unique pieces. The inspiration was taken from Piranesi’s etchings of buildings. The focus started to direct itself towards columns and capitals; SimpsonHowe said that this is especially reflected in the Duo Pillar Studs. The pieces in this collection are elegant while showing their core and simplicity. When it comes to design, every piece starts out the same way; a sketch and forming from wax. “Sometimes it’s easier to get an idea into 3D form straight away to get a feel for the piece and work out any details physically,” she explained. “Depending on the overall look I want to create determines what processes I’ll use to produce it, which is anything from making straight out of the raw metal, 3D printing and casting or hand carving from wax and casting.” Every piece is made-to-order, this allows

customers to become a part of the process by deciding on their metal and stones within the same style of the piece. Within this, she also has a range of price points which allow her pieces to be more accessible. “I also do custom one-off pieces for clients, designs that won’t be replicated and are specifically designed for them.” Most of the time, she works solo, but her partner helps with the CAD work when she needs it. The making, day-to-day running of the business, design, social media and dispatch is all done by her. When it comes to selling, the ability to sell vertically through her own website allows her to reach more people and said this was invaluable to her business. “It can allow me to experiment with ideas, showcasing these pieces to people almost instantly and without the investment of committing to it being in a full range.” Her Twist Bangle is testament to that, an idea transitioned into a physical form, then put online where it sold within minutes and has since been a bestseller. Each bangle is individually hand carved with slight variations in each unique piece. “I’m really keen to have Holly Howe Jewellery stocked in a few quality galleries and stores throughout New Zealand. I have a couple lined up already. Slow and steady. I’d love to open my own gallery but that feels like a pretty wild dream.” For more information or to become a stockist, email holly@hollyhowejewellery.com or visit www.hollyhowejewellery.com.

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cross the Spring 2022 runways we saw an overwhelming selection of pink-hued looks. From dusty pastels to watermelon pinks, pink is the colour this Spring in both menswear and womenswear. Alanui’s Ready to Wear Spring 2022 collection is bursting at the seams with colour. From fruity watermelon red to vibrant greens. This tie-dye inspired set stays within the trendy pink colour palette, with pops of red, similar to the Mara 16 thread, mustard yellows and baby pink seen throughout. The oversized denim jacket features two boxy front pockets and bronze buttons. Pair it with the matching denim shorts, a comfy knit bralette in a similar hue, and you have yourself the perfect spring outfit. Nothing says statement suiting more than this pastel pink number by AMI. The contrast collar and lining against the powdery pink, in a similar shade to Mara 473 thread, is fun and flirty. Paired with an

CASABLANCA

MARA 519

equally fun sheer button up and completed with casual yet timeless white sneakers. Who said suits had to be boring? VTMNTS is most well known for their bold logo branding, however, this pastel two-tone look shows very little visible logo branding. The sleeveless turtleneck, in an unassuming pale pink, easily matched with the Mara 2528 thread, showcases subtle branding across the chest. Paired with extra long gloves in the same colourway and medium brown trousers, this look will seamlessly transition from the runway to the streets. Casablanca’s Spring 2022 collection is a celebration of colour. Dancing around the colour wheel we land on this delicious candy set created from a unique weaving-inspired patterned fabric. Wavy collars on a double-breasted blazer paired with knee-length shorts, this look is the definition of bold. The cool-toned pink seen in this pattern is

most similar to the Mara 568 thread. Dreamy, flowy, and fluid. These are the three words that come to mind when we look at this sheer ombre outfit by Casablanca. Continuing the flowy motif across this collection, the collar of this jacket also sports a subtle wavy edge. Cinched in at the waist with a rainbow belt, and paired with matching sheer pants, with the pink hues matching the Mara 519 seamlessly, this is the perfect night time look. Oftentimes, monotone looks make more of a statement than something that is filled with different colours. This layered look by Greg Lauren is in a popular salmon hue, matching the Mara 80 thread. The collar-less overcoat on top of the longline button down long sleeve is cleverly paired with wide-legged pants all in the same hue. The frayed edges, metal buttons and subtle patchwork on the pants add texture and visual interest – aspects that are crucial in monotone looks like this.

Threads available from

0800 837 797 www.terryapparel.co.nz www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

: t r e l a d Tre n F O R E W O P E H T

HARNESSING N R E T T A P D R A O B R E K C E H C THE

@_olhirst_

Cult brands like Lisa Says Gah back the trend, while the runway offers longevity through 2022. We analyse why this bold check has gone viral, the cult brands that support the trend, successful styles in the market and runway inspiration for Spring 2022.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

3. Checkerboard works across fabrications Crochet has been highlighted as one of the season’s hottest trends, spanning product categories including loungewear. Retailers like Emmiol and Zara have married this trend with checkerboard designs. On Instagram, PacSun added head-to-toe checkerboard denim looks, while for high summer, Urban Outfitters showcased sunny yellow checks designed in linen. 4. It’s gone viral across categories Checkerboard was a runway trend that has already infiltrated the homeware sector, with the pattern popular across home decor on retailer Instagrams. Brands like Monki have coupled nostalgia with classic white and black checks across footwear and accessories. The label reached back to the Y2K era to design the memorable shoulder bag while offering 60s gogo boot-inspired shoes.

@ gigihadid

Preppy trends and prints like houndstooth have taken 2021 by storm. Now with the combination of 70s inspired fashion, checkerboard is becoming the next viral trend to invest in.

WHY YOU SHOULD INVEST

1. Celebrities and influencers back the trend Hailey Bieber graced the June/July 2021 issue of Vogue Magazine in a knitted checkerboard top, while Gigi Hadid posed in a two-tone green bathing suit that matched her daughter’s swimsuit on Instagram. Olivia Hirst is among several influencers who have posted themselves wearing the design in recent weeks - a relaxedfit denim and short co-ords are of note. 2. The style feeds into nostalgic themes from the runway Designers continue to be inspired by the 60s and 70s, expressed via checkerboard looks across the Fall 2021 runway season. Giambattista Valli supported the return of the mini dress, adding a nostalgic puff sleeve to the small-scale check style, while Daniel w. Fletcher imitated the iconic large scale disco floor in a skirt and jacket set. Continue reading to learn more about how this pattern will translate into Spring 2022.

@haileybieber

Understand the four reasons contributing to the popularity of the checkerboard pattern and how you can make it your own.

edited THE CULT BRANDS ON BOARD

is applied across textures from silk to soft terrycloth with Instagram posts featuring headto-toe patterned looks.

TOP MOVING SILHOUETTES

To further emphasise the 60s and 70s-inspired aesthetic, retailers like Nasty Gal and ASOS have had success with checkerboard boot-cut trousers, while wavy designs from SHEIN offered a psychedelic spin on the pattern. With co-ords a vital product category heading into 2022, SHEIN has already seen success for both woven and knitted shirt and short sets. Consumers are still buying into crop tops, moving well at Fashion Nova and Motel, while browns proved a popular colourway overall.

@lisasaysgah

@holiday_the_label

@asos

Lisa Says Gah Lisa Bühler started the San Francisco-based company in 2015, offering products from independent, female-owned brands and Lisa Says Gah styles. Bühler focuses on sustainably and ethically made clothes. Fans of the vintageinspired assortment have reached celebrity status, including Sophie Turner and Olivia Rodrigo.

RUNWAY INSPIRATION FOR SS22

The Pre-Spring 2022 runway shows proved that trippy prints, including checkerboard designs, are a commercial trend now and through to next year. Be inspired by how Anna Sui refreshed the graphic with contorted checkerboard pieces. With Y2K a theme for next spring, consider Gen Z green and brights for the season’s colour palette. Update small-scale arrangements with exaggerated ones or mix-and-match for a contemporary take on the trend. Combine checks with other prints and patterns for hero pieces. Consider working with padded, quilted and denim fabrics to construct checkerboard products, as these fabrics will be a strong focus for Spring 2022. On the denim front, investigate natural dyeing solutions for an eco-friendly option.

@wwd

Holiday The Label In 2017, Sydney-based designer Emma Mulholland created a space where customers can find 80s and 90s-inspired looks that extend summer vacation all year round. Sustainable practices run throughout the company. It offers pre-orders for popular items to minimise over production and repurposes deadstock to create smaller pieces like scrunchies. Checkerboard

@ wraynyc

@lisasaysgah

@ wraynyc

From wavy designs to retro floral graphics, Lisa Says Gah has evolved the traditional checkerboard. The brand has also maximized the pattern by applying it to knit sweaters, socks and hair accessories. Colour combinations range from browns to greens and purples, with black and white styles sprinkled in.

Wray Items are designed in NYC but are produced ethically at fair-trade operations in India, Hong Kong and Peru. The brand also offers sizing from XXS - 6XL and 0 - 24. The website has a dedicated page for checks, spanning apparel, accessories and home decor with blue, red, yellow and black checkerboard items commonly displayed on the brand’s Instagram.

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in detail

FINDING BEAUTY WITHIN OUR CONFINES

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

tep inside Deadly Ponies’ SS21 collection filled with elements and textures that harmoniously unites in an exploration of space. Taking inspiration from Charlotte Perriand’s House of a Young Man, 1935, the ideal studio space at the time. Terracotta tiles, rush chairs, modernist art and unique leathers are placed mindfully throughout the interiors. SS21’s rich colour palette traverses each considered element in Perriand’s design and is reimagined with Deadly Ponies refinement for a contemporary season. “I look to Charlotte Perriand as a muse. She was a pioneer in the industry and a creative female voice during a time when there were a few opportunities, with a unique style. She would always be seen wearing a stainless-steel necklace, as if she was wearing pearls with a really strong, masculine or modern edge,” said Liam Bowden, Creative Director at Deadly Ponies. Shades of moss, thyme and cornflower welcome the first part of this collection. Part I presents a super-fine, luxurious suede across intricate new shapes and the return of some of Deadly Ponies’ most-loved pieces. Part II sees tactile textures reach new heights, exploring

bold, two-toned python dip conflated by ombrehued amethyst croc. Subtle hues of quail provide a delicate grounding to Part II in sumptuously soft suede and their classic buttery leather. The Glow Capsule takes the exploration of space one step further – referencing the work of James Turrell, distorting depth, and creating an illumination of colour. “Our digitally-printed Glow Capsule was inspired by James Turrell’s light rooms, which I was fortunate enough to experience one in Naoshima, Japan. His spaces focus on light itself as the object – feeling limitless and surreal. We wanted to capture that concept and replicate it in our pieces.” In Part III, we feel a sense of warmth as the weather follows suit. Subdued sunset-inspired palette sees hues of atlantic and terracotta. The use of silk taffeta adds elevated shimmer to these evening silhouettes, whilst the custom Rush weave, made in Deadly Ponies’ eco-atelier in Chiang Mai, is intricately woven using a specialist technique to create an entirely unique design and yarn. Deadly Ponies’ SS21 collection explores the surreal spaces we are fortunate to have around us while we cannot venture far.

meet the buyer

ardine Ataera is the buyer for BAZAAR, an innovative retails space that offers new brands to the Hawke’s Bay region. Ataera started BAZAAR back in 2012 with her then business partner. Now, she is the sole owner and continues to bring her passion to the business – to create a retail space that is enjoyable and indulgent. BAZAAR combines luxury life essentials – international fashion, accessories, footwear, homewares, into a retail environment. BAZAAR is known for delivering an effortless, current style from designers such as Acler, Assembly Label, C&M, Cecilie Copenhagen, Juliette Hogan and many more. BAZAAR carries both local brands from New Zealand as well as well-loved brands from around the world. “We aim to offer something that is unique and has a point of difference in our area,” explained Ataera. The buying process for Ataera is “edit, edit and edit again”. “I am very considerate with everything I do in life, so my buying decisions are something I don’t take lightly. It’s a must that I love the product, believe it will be the right fit for my stores and the market, and I can visualise customers wearing it.” Her biggest personal challenge, pre-COVID, was the speed at which fashion was turning around. “It makes it hard to offer fashion with substance when there is a new range dropping every month that people must have. I understand how consumerism works, but I also would like my customers to know that they are

buying a product that will last for more than one season.” Now the process from buying to production has slowed down, Ataera feels more in tune with what her customers want, seasonally. The process of selecting a piece of clothing to purchase as a customer is now far more considered, and the thought process is thorough. Since COVID, the purchase behaviour of Ataera’s customers, locally and globally, has shifted. “Our lifestyles have changed, and if anything, they are not as frivolous as they used to be. I think my buying choices reflect this.” During COVID, Ataera and her team re-visited the brand’s BAZAAR stocks, introduced some new labels that meet the market right now whilst generally buying more considerably. “Athleisure won’t be leaving anyone’s wardrobe in a hurry. We are currently refining our offering and introducing a new luxe offering to our selection.” BAZAAR’s brand offering, store experience and customer service are what sets them apart in this industry. “We believe in creating relationships with not only our customers but also the brands we work with.” “Although we shouldn’t take fashion too seriously, it is a serious business! We thrive off providing our customers with premium products and services and creating an experience for them that they will remember,” concluded Ataera. To stock your brand at BAZAAR, email Ataera at bazaartheempire@live.com or visit www.bazaartheempire.com.

We believe in creating relationships with not only our customers but also the brands we work with.

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designer focus

osterom ONE is the label’s first-ever range, made to be timeless and transeasonal. The collection is made-to-order to ensure each garment is loved and worn with intent. Garments can be tailored for a specific customer too. Oosterom ONE is based on designer and founder, Nicole Hadfield’s, ten years of pattern making experience to create her dream wardrobe. “I take silhouettes and construction that I love and put it all together, considering texture and quality fabric that will last and is easy to care for,” explained Hadfield. The collection takes classic pieces and adding texture, shirring details and considered seams to create shapes that appreciate the unique human form. Hadfield’s background in menswear has allowed her to incorporate tailoring into her designs subconsciously. Hadfield has always wanted to start a label. “After COVID, a stint in film and a baby on the way, it was time to jump in and make it happen. I’ve taken it for granted that I’ve been able to create my own wardrobe, and now it’s time to share it with others.” Oosterom uses small-run fabrics from local suppliers and only use what they need. “Don’t worry about spilling that glass of red wine at a long lunch with your pals or traipsing through the mud at the kid’s soccer practice; Oosterom embraces having a balance between natural fibres and fabrics that can withstand wear and tear.” In this collection, the fabrics used are easy to care for and will stand the test of time after many handwashes, especially for active and career-driven women. “Oosterom brings luxury to everyday clothing.”

Oosterom showcases timeless elegance. “It’s great to see my vision and values come to life and to see customers share their care for the clothing and appreciation of the craft. Great clothing enhances your mood and becomes part of your output to the world. Having a strong emotional connection between clothing and customer is integral to the Oosterom vision,” explained Hadfield. The brand’s main point of difference is that each piece is made-to-order with one-onone fittings with the designer to create your dream wardrobe. “We also offer tailoring or mending for your existing garments and can offer styling tips to incorporate Oosterom into your existing wardrobe. Oosterom is your personal tailor.” Oosterom One is truly a meaningful first collection for the label. The Penelope Blouse is based on a piece that Hadfield has been wearing for years. It features an iconic sleeve that she designed for her own wedding dress. The tailored Annalise Trouser is a personal favourite for Hadfield, and she ensures that it won’t be going anywhere any time soon. “There’s just as much detail in the back of a garment as the front. Each garment is considered from all angles, like the subtle curved back waist seam in the Gren Shirt Dress – subtle yet flattering.” The Margot Tier Dress is playful with volume, a perfect piece for days you want to throw something on for a confidence boost. When looking for retailers to align with, Hadfield looks for those who value considered purchasing and celebrate craftsmanship and connection. To make an order, email Hadfield at studio@oosteromofficial.com or call 021 174 5899.

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beauty spot

– tewart Creative

Di re c to

S en ir st K

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wait to ascend on Auckland to work at New Zealand’s largest fashion event.” It is a sought-after goal for KSSM students and graduates to attend NZFW. “I think they are most excited about just being there, soaking up the vibe and gaining real-life experience in such a high-pressured environment.” The most logistical part of working for a fashion show of this scale is sorting out the team schedule but also the consultation process with fashion designers. Fashion designers will first send Stewart inspiration for what they feel will go well with their collection. “Sometimes designers know exactly what they want, and others give many conflicting ideas. This is when I need to come up with a happy medium,” she explained. When working for a group show, where three to four designers are showing simultaneously, using the same models, but have very different makeup concepts, Stewart works with all of them to ensure all designers are on the same page and are all pleased with the final look. “Once I have a good idea of what a designer wants, I do a trial on a model and send them a photo for either sign-off, or we go back to tweak or redesign until they are happy.” Perfecting skin in makeup artistry is the most important thing to Stewart. “Without a good base/foundation/skin, the rest of the makeup will not shine.” When teaching KSSM students, Stewart always spends the first couple of days going through how to apply foundation to ensure all students get it right before moving on. “This does not mean you need to cake the face with foundation, some need more than others, but we want the face to look flawless and bright.”

ol of

or this issue of Apparel, we sat down with the Creative Director of the ‘faces’ of the 2021 NZFW runway, Kristen Stewart. Kristen Stewart, the mastermind behind Kristen Stewart School of Makeup (KSSM), has worked as a makeup artist for the last 26 years. She began as a freelancer and opened up KSSM 13 years ago. KSSM is an innovative school based in Christchurch providing a focused Diploma of Makeup Artistry for those passionate about the ‘art of makeup’ in the fashion and photographic industries. Stewart studied photography as this was her childhood dream, but she discovered the impact makeup artists have on shoots and decided that makeup artistry was the path she wanted to pursue. “Back then, makeup artistry was not seen as it is today; we were part of a very small industry,” explained Stewart. Her mother worked in fashion shows, so she had a glimpse of the ‘life’ backstage. “This totally inspired me to get into this line of work as I found it exciting and still do.” Choosing her NZFW team this year was not hard for Stewart. “I am very lucky that I only take attending and graduate students from my school as part of my team, and as I know them all very well, I feel I know each of their strengths and weaknesses and where they will be best placed and whom they will work well with.” For NZFW this year, KSSM will be working on 21 shows, keeping busy from the very first show on opening night to the very last show on the Sunday. The team will meet approximately three hours before each show with the models, depending on the degree of difficulty or detail of the looks they will be creating. “Everyone is extremely excited and cannot

en Stewart Scho

KRISTEN STEWART SCHOOL OF MAKEUP

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AS STYLED BY e yD

Vivo National Ed uc ey –

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& o vel De

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Apparel Magazine spoke to five of the hair stylists from VIVO that will be bringing their talents to New Zealand Fashion Week.

nt pme Manager

Chrissy de Mey is the National Education and Development Manager at Vivo. Although this is the first time Vivo has been involved with NZFW, many stylists have experience in similar fashion events of this scale. When choosing a team to work for an event like this, Vivo strongly believes in creating opportunities for all. With nearly 700 stylists, Vivo has an incredible pool of talent to choose from. This year, the selection process begins with a nomination. Nominees then submit a short video on what fashion means to them as an individual. “We had such a hard time narrowing it down as there were some amazing submissions. Obviously, they all need to have a certain skill set and be passionate about fashion. We feel we have an amazing team lined up,” expressed de Mey. Throughout NZFW21, Vivo will have three separate teams. Two teams will be moving

through each day, creating the brief for the hair on the models. Vivo’s Creative Director, Sara Allsop, will liaise with the designers to create a look that fits their show. The third team will be running the ‘Blow Dry Bar’; this is a fantastic opportunity for guests, celebrities and such, to get their ‘glam on’. “We will be doing complimentary blow waves and styling so that even the guests look amazing.” The stylists are incredibly excited for the chance to contribute to such a prestigious event. The hair industry works incredibly closely with the fashion industry every day around the world. “We will be interpreting trends for hair all week. Some shows will need a huge level of creativity, and some shows will be more commercial in style. I think our teams will have an incredible experience,” concluded de Mey.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

total concept,” explained Allsop. Allsop has been leading on shows at New Zealand Fashion Week since the beginning and finds the best part of it all is catching up with everyone in the industry every year. Before COVID, Allsop travelled twice a year, every season to New York and Paris Fashion Weeks as well as Couture and Men’s. “I have been doing this since 2009 and find that it keeps me extremely current.”

Creative Directo r Fo rV ivo

FW NZ

Sara Allsop is a creative consultant at Vivo and has been hairdressing for the last 30+ years. With her valuable experience in the hairdressing industry, she works alongside designers and makeup artists to decide on looks for fashion shows like New Zealand Fashion Week. This year, she is the Creative Director for Vivo NZFW21. “We usually come together with a model and do a hair and makeup test before the day to ensure everyone is on the same page with the

– sop All

beauty spot

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’Dell

– Senior Stylis t At

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“This is definitely a year of me pushing my boundaries and getting out of my comfort zone. I’m most looking forward to the buzz and hype backstage and also working with some of New Zealand’s most talented!” Hairstyling techniques are essential, O’Dell recalls creating pin curls, sets, blow waves and finger waves during his earlier years. When advising beginner hairstylists, he explained that the fundamentals of hairdressing will never change. Having control of your combs, tools and brushes will always be vital, so it is essential to master them.

nervous as she has never done something like this before. When she began hairdressing, she learnt how to mould and scale, which helped her with comb control and with making shapes in the hair. Thompson likes to stay updated with hair trends by staying on top of social media trends as well as watching tutorials by BTC University and Patrick Cameron.

Michaela Knight is an emerging stylist at Vivo Tauranga Crossing. She has been with Vivo for 11 months. She completed a makeup course prior to hairdressing, although different industries, it is similar enough for Knight to transfer valuable soft skills over, if not technical. “I am extremely excited to be working at NZFW, this is such an amazing opportunity, and I am incredibly grateful to be attending,” expressed Knight. Knight is most looking forward to learning new skills and meeting new people at NZFW this year.

“I am very passionate about the competitive side of hairdressing, so being able to be a part of the backstage process will be an amazing experience.” For Knight, prepping the hair is the most important step when creating a hairstyle. It’s an important step that a lot of people leave out. Learning how to backcomb, use teasing brushes, crimpers, and hairspray is also essential. Knight gains most of her inspiration for hairstyles from celebrities, Pinterest, and fashion designers.

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Shayna Thompson is the senior stylist at Vivo Avonhead, Christchurch. She has been with Vivo for three and a half years and in the hairdressing industry for 16. Thompson went straight into the industry after high school at 16 years old, when she found her passion for hairdressing. Thompson is super excited to be working backstage at NZFW this year, although a bit

– son mp o h

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Paul O’Dell is the senior stylist at Vivo Remuera in Auckland. He has been in the hairdressing industry for 16 years, ten of them with Vivo. O’Dell has a background in design. He studied painting for a year after school but couldn’t figure out what he wanted to specialise in. Therefore, O’Dell decided to travel instead and found himself in the hospitality industry for ten years. One significant birthday later, he decided he wanted a career change and began pursuing hairdressing; he has never looked back since. When talking about working backstage for NZFW21, O’Dell is incredibly excited.

, Tauranga

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