Apparel Magazine | August/September 2023

Network and connect with 800+ manufacturers and suppliers from around the world.

Network and connect with 800+ manufacturers and suppliers from around the world.

Where Heritage Meets Progress

The significance of fashion weeks and exhibitions amidst the rising tide of digital experiences and virtual connectivity signals the enduring importance of in-person connections. Through the ups and downs of economic challenges, covid and the pressure on small businesses, across the world, fashion weeks continue to serve as the beating heart of the industry. A place where trends are born, relationships are nurtured, and innovation finds its roots. They provide a tangible arena lending an invaluable essence, the lifeblood of an industry that, for decades, many labels in New Zealand have struggled to find financial success.

A transformative addition to the fashion landscape is AI. Emerging as a transformative force in an industry traditionally anchored in heritage, AI's imprint is becoming evident from design inception to the closer development of customer relationships. Algorithms can sift through historical and contemporary fashion trends, empowering designers to facilitate pattern recognition, provide design elements, and improve design iterations, all while preserving the designer's creative originality.

While AI can optimise supply chain logistics by predicting demand, it can also assist with minimising waste and ensuring timely product availability. Such improvements bolster sustainability and operational effectiveness, core considerations in today's consumer landscape. AI-driven algorithms study consumer preferences and behaviours, curating bespoke recommendations and interactions, fostering stronger brandconsumer connections and bolstering sales. Virtual fitting rooms allow customers to envision the fit and appearance of a garment before purchase, elevating the online shopping experience and offsetting the rate of returns.

Fashion's allure lies in its harmonious juxtaposition of tradition and modernity. Exhibitions and fashion weeks pay homage to the sensory and emotional bonds that tie us to fashion, while technology introduces a new era of efficiency and boundless possibilities.

By embracing this symbiosis, the industry stands poised to navigate a future where innovation, personalisation, and ecological mindfulness converge.

Chanel High Jewelry

ByJulie Levoyer, Agnès Muckensturm

Chanel High Jewelry

celebrates ninety years since the launch of Chanel's first fine jewellery collection in 1932. With breathtaking photography and classic images, the book is a stunning visual narrative of the origins, the symbols, the spirit, and the allure showcasing Gabrielle Chanel's passion for fabulousness and the House's unparalleled insistence on luxury and refinement, creativity and beauty.

I would also like to add my sincerest gratitude to all the participants and supporters who contributed to the resounding success of the inaugural Peter Mitchell Memorial Golf Day at Windross Farm Golf Course.

Peter Mitchell, who passed away in 2022, has left a remarkable body of work and tirelessly gave his time to support start-up businesses and those wanting to further their industry skills. Peter reported on and supported the industries he felt so passionately about, and his legacy continues in the ethos of the business today.

From the very start of a spectacular day of golf (even the weather was kind), the event exemplified a shared purpose: we united to empower the next generation through the Kiwi Can programme and support upcoming rising stars in the industry through the Peter Mitchell Memorial Scholarship.

The scholarship offers a fantastic opportunity for individuals seeking to enhance their knowledge and skills within the sector, fostering a spirit of growth and advancement. The Peter Mitchell Memorial Scholarship lays the foundation for a legacy that will continue to inspire and uplift young talent in the industry for years to come.

As we reflect on the day's success, we are reminded of the impact that collective efforts can have in fostering meaningful change. The event's accomplishments are a testament to the generosity of our business community, and we remain committed to continuing to work in supporting the aspirations and dreams of our future leaders.

Entries will open in October for those rising stars in the industry wishing to apply to The Peter Mitchell Memorial Scholarship.

P.S. Check out our industry spotlight starting on page 26. Don't forget to sign up to our vital industry Trade Directory for 2024.

Rei Kawakubo: For and Against Fashion

Edited by Rex Butler

Comme des Garçons' Rei Kawakubo is one of the world's major fashion designers. Being the second living designer to ever be given a retrospective at the renowned Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, her work is a major point of reference in contemporary fashion. This collection of 14 essays describes the relationship of Kawakubo's work to art, philosophy and architecture.

The Re:Fashion Wardrobe

By

Portia Lawrie

Sew a sustainable capsule wardrobe that is tailored to you and breaks the cycle of throw-away fashion. The techniques in the book begin with advice on equipment, fabrics and sourcing in order to make alterations or create new pieces of clothing with pre-loved items. Portia Lawrie takes you step-bystep through a collection of 11 garments that she has reworked to create a modern capsule wardrobe that you can wear throughout the year.

The Little Book of Versace

By Laia Farran Graves

From Elizabeth Hurley's safety pin dress to Jennifer Lopez's plunging green gown, Versace has always placed a foot in pop culture and is beloved by fashionistas and celebrities alike. The Little Book Of Versace explores the story of the brand, from its creation in 1978 by Gianni Versace to its iconic status today, featuring images of red-carpet moments, key pieces and stunning catwalk shows.

EMPOWERING CREATIVITY AND SUSTAINABILITY WITH INDUSTRY SPECIFIC SHORT COURSES

Sensing a gap in the New Zealand market for easily accessible short courses specific to the apparel and textile sectors, digital fashion designer, Alysha Gover, and textile professional, Peter Heslop, joined forces recently to create Textile Hub.

The business will provide a series of industry specific short courses covering CLO3D Digital Fashion Design, Digital Textile Design, Sustainability and Product Lifecycle Design, and Textile Knowledge. More subjects will be added to the company’s portfolio over the coming months.

Generative AI Design for Fashion and Textiles is one such subject that Textile Hub is considering. "Much is being made in the media about the use of AI in our everyday working lives, some positive and some less so," said Gover. "Our intention is to introduce a short course on this subject later in the year to consider how AI can be exploited in a positive way for the benefit of those operating in the fashion and textile sectors."

"We welcome suggestions for new course subjects from those working at the coal face," said Heslop. "We are open to hosting customised courses and one to one consultations as well if the demand is there."

"Initially our courses will be held in Auckland with a view to offering them in some of the other major centres as well as online, depending on demand," said Gover.

An introductory offer is available for participants wishing to register for any Textile Hub short course before the 31st of August. Simply use promo code TH15 when registering via Eventfinda to take advantage of a 15% discount.

MECCA LAUNCHES NEW CATEGORY FOR FAMILY WELLNESS

To meet customers' changing needs, MECCA is thrilled to welcome a new category of products, Family Wellness, beauty for birth, baby and beyond.

From pregnancy and birth to post-partum and daily support, the launch paves the way for an area of beauty that grows and changes with you.

"We're incredibly excited to bring this new offer to the MECCA consumer. We are confident that these new brands will bring the best-in-class quality that our MECCA customers know and expect," said Isobel McNally, MECCA's General Manager of Merchandise.

"With the launch of Family Wellness, we hope women see MECCA as a one-stop-shop for all their self-care needs and feel both comfortable and empowered to do so, no matter what changes they may be experiencing."

A PLATFORM TO DRIVE FURTHER AWARENESS

The Global Sourcing Expo will take place from 21-23 November at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre and attracts exhibitors from 13 countries. These exhibitors prioritise sustainable production processes and materials to create high-quality and long-lasting garments.

“One of the biggest priorities of the 2023 Global Sourcing Expo is promoting transparency and accountability throughout the international sourcing supply chain,” said Kinsella. “Our exhibitors are a testament to this commitment, as is the high number of sustainability-focused seminars in our Global Sourcing Seminar program.”

And while she acknowledges that New Zealand and Australia still has a long way to go in the fight against fast fashion, Kinsella commented that the industry has observed a noticeable shift in consumers prioritising ethically-made products.

Attendance to the expo is free and paid for seminar sessions can be booked via the website. Those who are interested in more information are encouraged to visit www.globalsourcingexpo.com.au.

LEVI'S AND STUDIO GHIBLI'S PRINCESS MONONOKE COLLECTION

By pairing the brand's style with the film's aesthetic, two cultural icons, Levi's and Studio Ghibli, have created an artful collection with poetry woven into every piece.

Inspired by the film's landscapes and mystical characters, the Princess Mononoke collection honours environmental storytelling and transformative enchantment. Each piece captures the essence of the forest and the beauty of a deeply connected ecosystem.

"Over 25 years after its release, Princess Mononoke continues to resonate deeply with audiences across the globe as an animated icon," said Karyn Hillman, Chief Product Officer at Levi Strauss & Co.

"It was a joy collaborating with Studio Ghibli and creating a beautiful collection that pays tribute to this compelling, artistic masterpiece."

A NEW ERA FOR RESPONSIBLE SOURCING

Following three highly productive days combining global networking opportunities, invaluable connections and game-changing business opportunities, Europe’s newest responsible sourcing show, Source Fashion, has closed.

“Despite some reports that retailers are being cautious, the last three days at Source Fashion have proven the total opposite to be true. The show has welcomed so many buyers from leading retailers and brands, eager to discover new, responsible manufacturers and suppliers. The feedback shows that there is a palpable sense of positivity around the continuing growth in the fashion sector,” said Suzanne Ellingham, Director of Sourcing, Source Fashion.

Source Fashion welcomed some of retail’s biggest names during the course of the three-day event. Buyers, sourcing managers, product developers, technologists and designers from brands and retailers including John Lewis, H&M, Selfridges, FILA, JoJo Maman Bebe, Monsoon, Sainsburys, ASOS, Harrods and more came to explore and source from the diverse mix of audited exhibitors.

REGISTRATIONS OPEN FOR 100TH EDITION OF EXPO RIVA SCHUH & GARDABAGS

Registrations for the 100th edition of Expo Riva Schuh & Gardabags are now open.

The event will take place on January 13 to January 16 2024 in Riva del Garda.

Expo Riva & Gardabags is the leading international exhibit dedicated to footwear, leather goods and accessories with 41 countries represented among the exhibiting companies and visitors from more than 100 countries.

The exhibition is the ideal platform to network with companies and brands from the main manufacturing districts of Brazil, China, Germany, Great Britain, India, Italy, Pakistan, Portugal, Spain, South East Asia and Turkey.

Expo Riva Schuh & Gardabags’ Buyer Programme will provide a personalised and exclusive experience to professionals within the industry. The programme is designed to facilitate meetings and relations between supply and demand-side operators.

The Buyer Programme includes access to the Buyers Lounge, exclusive networking events, online and in person education sessions and an exclusive personalised assistance service to make the experience run smoothly.

THE WORLD'S FIRST NET ZERO CARBON SHOE

Allbirds has revealed its highly anticipated M0.0NSHOT, the world's first net zero carbon shoe. It is urging the rest of the fashion industry to follow suit by giving away its entire toolkit.

The high-top shoe boasts a landmark carbon footprint of 0.0 kg CO2e. Carbon-negative, regenerative wool wraps the entirety of the M0.0NSHOT for a striking, uniform look.

Allbirds' co-founder Tim Brown took to the stage at the Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen to unveil the shoe and call on industry competitors in the audience to create their versions.

To help them do so, Allbirds is open-sourcing the M0.0NSHOT methodology via its 'Recipe B0.0K', a toolkit detailing each step of the M0.0NSHOT's process, including materials, manufacturing, transportation, end-of-life, and carbon footprint calculation.

The toolkit was distributed to the thousands of Global Fashion Summit attendees and is now available digitally on the Allbirds website for anyone to download and, hopefully, implement.

"This is one small step for Allbirds, but it could be one giant leap for the footwear industry if others join us. Unlike the space 'race', this is a relay; we're all on the same side," said Tim Brown.

"M0.0NSHOT is Allbirds's greatest achievement, but it's meaningless without others taking action: which is why we felt compelled to open-source our learnings, so others can pick up the baton and take us forward."

PROGRAMME REVEALED FOR 21ST INTERNATIONAL TECHNICAL FOOTWEAR CONGRESS

The UITIC (International Union of Shoe Industry Technicians) has announced the programme for their 21st annual International Technical Footwear Congress.

The four-day event being held this September will include some interesting tours and panel discussions. The first day will start off the programme with factory and institutional visits, offering participants an insight into the Italian shoemaking industry’s research, innovation and infrastructure.

The next day will include another visit. This would be a guided tour of the SIMAC Tanning Tech trade show, a landmark for the most advanced technology and an opportunity for discussion with innovators, supported by the ASSOMAC team.

The last two days of the event would include speaker sessions and discussions from industry experts with a focus on innovation and sustainability within the global footwear market.

The UITIC International Technical Footwear Congress will be held from the 19th to the 22nd of September this year in Milan and Vigevano, registrations for which are now open.

ALLBIRDS

Vice President of Innovation for Allbirds, Jad Finck, doubled down on the mission to create the new M0.0NSHOT shoe in 2022, the launch of which was the culmination of seven years of innovation.

"M0.0NSHOT is the greatest hits album of everything we have ever created, plus new carbon-negative materials that brought this to the net zero carbon finish line," said Finck.

Finck has worked with Allbirds since its early days, having seen its progressions through the sugarcane-derived green EVA midsole to carbon labelling initiatives and more.

He continued that it felt full circle for the M0.0NSHOT to bring together these innovations throughout the business's history, adding carbon-negative merino wool, SuperLight foam, and methane capture bio-plastic to create the world's first net zero carbon shoe.

For a project of this scale, between Allbirds and the fantastic partners it collaborated with, dozens of individuals were involved through the supply chain, making it possible to create M0.0NSHOT.

"Our robust team of scientists, product developers and designers came together with growers and leading regenerative scientists to create M0.0NSHOT."

Creating a net zero carbon shoe required Allbirds to think more deeply than ever before about how it designed, manufactured, and transported products, as it knew that the first order of business when creating low-carbon products was to reduce the footprint as much as possible.

Finck took a step back and explained that every product has five phases in its cradleto-grave lifecycle, including materials, manufacturing, transportation, product use, and end-of-life.

He said that Allbirds reduced emissions in each phase as much as possible by using renewable energy, biofuel-powered ocean shipping, and electric vehicle trucking, to name a few. However, the critical aspect that brought M0.0NSHOT to 0.0 kg CO2e was materials.

"We had reduced the carbon footprint as much as possible but needed carbon-negative materials that could counter the more carbonintensive parts of the product's lifecycle, like manufacturing and end-of-life."

Carbon-negative materials, like the regenerative wool, sugarcane-derived Green

EVA midsole, and methane capture bio-plastic, brought M0.0NSHOT over the line.

Founded to reverse climate change, Allbirds is firm that the world is racing for the planet. Allbirds knows it's not enough to win. Because of that, the brand has open-sourced its innovations, like its sugarcane-derived SweetFoam midsole and lifecycle assessment tools. M0.0NSHOT was no different.

"We're calling the M0.0NSHOT toolkit a 'Recipe B0.0K,' and it's pretty fitting. People can access our 'ingredients', including information on design philosophy, materials, manufacturing, transportation, end-of-life, our partners, and more."

He said that Allbirds wanted folks to take these 'ingredients' and apply them to their products.

"There are some parts of our recipe that we consider our secret sauce, our design and construction, but people can take these ingredients in the toolkit and bake their cake if you will."

Footwear and fashion are applicable industries, but Allbirds believes the ripple effect of these learnings could reverberate to other spaces. The business has big ambitions and hopes to inspire a new way of making, and that M0.0NSHOT would be just the first of many net zero carbon products.

Finck said Allbirds had already seen good interest from numerous companies who want to apply the M0.0NSHOT methodology to their products. However, Finck was not at liberty to share specifics, only that it was just the beginning for the M0.0NSHOT shoe.

Comparing the M0.0NSHOT shoe to its Adizero x Allbirds shoe regarding their carbon footprints, Finck said cutting carbon was a game of inches.

"We've been in the decarbonisation game for a bit, so we know how hard it is to reduce your footprint to near zero. Our partnership with Adidas ended with a shoe that boasted a carbon footprint of 2.94 kg CO2e, and at the time, that was our lowest carbon footprint shoe."

While the Adizero x Allbirds shoes were the brand's lowest carbon footprint shoe, the brand remained vigilant in its desire to get to zero, with Allbirds having a consensus of feeling that there was still more room to push the brand further.

The critical difference that brought M0.0NSHOT to 0.0 kg CO2e was the materials, with Allbirds reducing the carbon footprint as much as possible throughout all of the product's lifecycle phases, buts its regenerative wool, sugarcane-derived Green EVA midsole, and methane capture bio-plastic was the critical area that made this shoe possible.

Finck shared a story from before the pandemic

to explain precisely what made regenerative wool regenerative. He enjoyed spending time in New Zealand with Allbirds growers, walking their land and discussing their work. Here, he was blown away by the thoughtfulness growers took in their efforts to maintain and draw down carbon.

"I was also blown away by the fact that so few systems exist to give growers credit for these practices."

After that trip ended, Allbirds joined other industry stakeholders and its partners at The New Zealand Merino Company to establish ZQRX. This regenerative agriculture index helped farmers work with nature to improve human, animal and environmental outcomes continuously.

That same ZQRX program helped Allbirds to source M0.0NSHOT's wool from Lake Hawea Station. An independent examination of the farm affirmed that it was net carbon zero, meaning it sequestered more carbon than it emitted. The realisation of LHS' regenerative, carbon-negative wool allowed Allbirds to reimagine a fundamental principle of sustainable design.

"Instead of constantly trying to reduce, suddenly we were encouraged to use more of a material; we needed to use more of the negative carbon wool to help us counter other more stubborn parts of the carbon equation."

Allbirds ultimately landed on a hightop shoe fully wrapped with carbon-negative wool. Finck said it felt like a maximal celebration of this magic material that Allbirds believe will be critical to how products are made in the future and in reversing climate change through better business.

Another material used in the M0.0NSHOT shoe is the SuperLight Foam, Allbirds lowest carbon foam ever, comprised of approximately 70 percent bio-based content.

Like SweetFoam, SuperLight Foam is made with carbon-negative, sugarcane-derived green EVA, with the sugarcane capturing carbon as it grows. The material is infused with nitrogen under the right temperature and pressure, allowing Allbirds to use more green EVA and fewer additives.

Finck continued that one of the criticisms of traditional sheep farming was that animals released a lot of methane, a greenhouse gas 30 times more harmful than carbon, when they fart and burp.

Allbirds partnered with Mango Materials to use cutting-edge methane-capture biomaterial to produce components like logo badges to combat this. Mango Material's revolutionary process employs microorganisms, a species of ancient bacteria that eats waste methane and

produce a material that can be made into highly functional bioplastics.

"So we were able to take something that's historically a nuisance, methane emissions, and recruit it to work on our behalf."

Allbirds plans to have the M0.0NSHOT in a bag made with bio-based PE (sugarcane-based polyethylene) for packaging. Compared with other packaging alternatives such as boxes, this is an exceptionally lightweight and compact way of shipping shoes.

Finck said that Allbirds was also really excited by the look of M0.0NSHOT as it's very visually unique, functional, and collectable.

"We're always looking to improve continually, so we'll refine our packaging until launch. And as always, it's not a one-and-done; we'll take our learnings and apply them to our other products over time."

Looking ahead, Allbirds wants to reverse climate change through better business, continuing its journey and creating net zero carbon products. Finck added that customers could also expect to see echoes of M0.0NSHOT reverberating into the existing Allbirds product line.

"And, as always, we're going to stay laserfocused on carbon reduction."

Jad Finck Vice President of Innovation Allbirds

I was also blown away by the fact that so few systems exist to give growers credit for these practices.

SHINE ON

After studying fashion in Wellington, Claire Young started her career in a variety of pattern-making roles. She would eventually return to university to study marketing and started her maternity clothing business as a stay-at-home-mum. This provided her with experience in everything from production management to ecommerce. Once her children were older, she realised that she was ready for a new challenge.

Originally joining the Shine On team on a parttime basis to help develop its house brand, the role would grow into a full-time role, expanding to four house brands. Young has designed for three Shine On ranges and has been a buyer from other brands.Young said that Shine On is separate from its competitors because it understands who its customers are in detail.

"Shine On customers are treated as valued friends when they enter our stores. Our staff are there to help them to find something that makes them feel good about themselves. We like to take extra attention and care for that lady who doesn't feel confident shopping and isn't sure what suits her," said Young.

"The time and effort we put into meeting our customers' needs has built a strong brand loyalty for Shine On and the brands we stock."

Being a multi-brand store has allowed Shine On to cater for a wider range of customers, and its online marketing has provided new brands with a lot of exposure.

When scouting out new designers to stock in store, Young is always on the lookout for quality fabrics, good quality products and versatile on-trend styles that customers will feel comfortable and confident wearing. Young said she looks for brands that align with the store’s other brands and are within its price range. It is also important that they can meet Shine On’s supply needs, due to ecommerce sales being able to quickly move stock.

For designers who desire to be featured in a specific retailer, such as Shine On, Young added that it is vital for them to know who the customer in mind is and to be consistent in meeting that customer's needs.

"It is especially important to be consistent in your sizing across all styles and ranges. Constantly monitor your quality standards, maintain clear communication and have efficient systems for both deliveries and returns if there are problem items."

Shine On is always on the lookout for new seasonal trends, searching for new designs and trends to feature in-store. Young said that the designs chosen represent the various needs of Shine On’s clientele, such as being fashionable and comfortable at the same time.

Young is excited to see the change in silhouettes, adding the introduction of new looks, such as the crossover of utility styling into the more dressy arena, is something she is awaiting.

KARA LEANNE BROWN SHINE ON

With more than six years of experience working at Shine On, Kara Leanne Brown has worked across an array of areas within the company. Without the traditional academic background in fashion, she has worked in retail, marketing and content creation.

With an eye for fashion, Brown knew that buying for a company would be her main goal. She said that Shine On’s customer service will go above and beyond to ensure its customers have been looked after. She added that the Shine On purpose is to allow customers to embrace the brave and the beautiful within themselves, with the aim to provide a space to feel comfortable within their own skin.

Targeting Women from 30 to 80, Shine On has a vast assortment of stock for all styles and shapes.

"At Shine On, we offer great representation in each store and online. Whether that be advertised on our social pages, or merchandised beautifully in our four stores," said Brown.

Sustainability has been a focus for Brown, who said that she has constantly explored ways in which the company can operate as sustainably as possible. An example of this would be embracing recycled fabrics, as well

as looking at supplying garments made from sustainable materials such as Bamboo. Shine On has currently diverted over 1800 kilos of plastic waste from landfill, which is something the company is very proud of.

Brown said that the company is always on the hunt for the next big trends to sell on its website and in its store, adding that she felt it was important to surprise and delight customers with new products that are fresh and fun.

We like to Interpret the latest fashion trends, plus we like to stick to core styles that customers come back to us year after year, as well as slowly introducing lasting trends.

For young designers who want to break into the market, Brown said that it is important to have great communication and to build great relationships with retailers. She added that providing high-quality products will ensure that they will last and that if there are any issues with stock or delays in production, it is vital to find quick solutions that work for both ends.

For the upcoming Summer season, Brown is excited to see the return of light-tailored looks, such as wide-leg pants and blazers. Flowy skirts, as well as bright colours and beautiful floral dresses, will also be on the radar.

THE SHELTER ARRIVES IN DUNEDIN

Acontemporary lifestyle destination, The Shelter by taylor has been created to showcase exceptional garments that are timeless and fashionable, and to bring together like-minded, design-led brands such as Rick Owens, DRKSHDW, Symetria, Puro Shoes and Uma Wang. The Shelter’s range will also have a focus on avant-garde designs.

The Shelter by taylor’s retail design by Creative Director, Vicki Taylor, was based on a minimalist focus, with a reflective, dark and sophisticated appeal. Local steelwork and natural influences were used during the fit-out process over the eight-week build.

The idea to expand to a new location started whilst roaming the streets, which Taylor said was the best research you could do.

"You get a feel for the locals and the energy. The hustle and bustle of the coffee shop around the corner, the creative hubs that can only be found on foot. In Dunedin, you are hard-pressed to find a corner that doesn’t celebrate a unique point of view," said Taylor.

From the moment she first visited the location, Taylor knew she would return with more permanence one day. She described Dunedin as brimming with inspiration, and found herself captivated by the interplay of architectural beauty and contemporary vision that has created a combination of old and new.

Situated on the same site as a former 1940s clothing factory, The Shelter by taylor has brought new life to the corner store, which has promised to be more than just a shopping location, but instead, a community and style hub for clients to express their individuality.

"We have an amazing client base in the South Island. When popping into our stores around the country, they always mention they’d love to see us closer to home. Bringing the in-person taylor experience to them was the perfect next step."

In-house brand, taylor, has fostered an individual creativity and experimentation through its designs, and has explored the contrast of elements, with striking yet practical designs. Designer, Vicki Taylor, first launched the brand in 1999, and offered striking yet practical designs to allow the wearer to effortlessly create an individual style, with an emphasis on impeccable tailoring.

Taylor added that the new store will allow stories to come alive, and daringly defy expectations. Clients will find themselves in close proximity to global designers, thinkers and artisans who call The Shelter home.

The Shelter by taylor has opened a new space in the heart of Dunedin, combining a new shopping experience with art, creativity and culture. The new store will be the flagship location for in-house brand, taylor, in the South Island.

MADCO AGENCY

For the last six years, Iozzi has been the Head of Marketing and PR for several fashion brands at Brand Collective across Australia and New Zealand, responsible for introducing and growing brands like Superdry and Replay Jean in new markets like New Zealand.

However, this year Iozzi ventured out with his own PR and Marketing Agency, MadCo PR.

"MadCo PR is a boutique lifestyle PR agency based in Melbourne, Australia, specialising in publicity, events, communications and marketing strategy," said Iozzi.

With over ten years of experience across lifestyle, fashion, epicure, sport, and television industries, MadCo is designed to help bring brand stories to life by understanding the needs and wants of clients, generating brand awareness and credibility in a cluttered market.

"Truthfully, we’re a bit mad."

Iozzi said that MadCo PR’s most recent efforts with Idle Hour Vodka and The Australian Grand Prix had been a significant feather in the company’s cap and something Iozzi was incredibly proud of.

"Securing a four-year category exclusive sponsorship with the largest sporting event in Australia (400,000+ guests per year) for an emerging local brand with a significant activation footprint, influencer and media strategy in our infancy was no small feat."

Iozzi continued that activating beyond the traditional four-day event period, MadCo secured over 120 press hits last year, generating a 700plus lift on year-on-year sales and establishing the brand as a staple in the Asia Pacific bar trolley. Similarly, through his time at Brand Collective,

launching international fashion brands like Superdry and Replay in Aotearoa had been a real ‘pinch-me’ moment for Iozzi. Curating a significant media buy, media, and influencer outreach with partnering brands has been a significant achievement.

"Establishing new brands in new markets is a real work of love and something that engages my team."

If Kiwi designers and brands wish to expand their reach into Australia or need media, activation, or influencer support in the Australian market, Iozzi said that MadCo was there to service these needs.

Working across major sporting events around the country along with local and international brands across various categories, including alcohol, fashion, beauty and technology, has provided MadCo with a significant network of journalists, suppliers, influencers and talent that can be utilised to grow New Zealand businesses.

Having spent more than a decade on the brand side working with local and International brands across varying categories, MadCo PR is not the typical PR agency.

"We think the ‘mad’ ideas are the best. We also do not pretend to be something we are not or charge unreasonable rates for work undeserving of the price tag. We understand how brands and budgets work and recognise the true need for data-driven ROI for brands."

MadCo PR offers various services, including press management, proactive press liaison, editorial development and placement, press material generation, press and influencer kit development, communication strategy, and the

organisation of press days and events.

For events and sponsorships, MadCo provides the following services, end-to-end event management, brand activations, event styling, strategy and creative concepts, guest list curation and management, media accreditation, and red carpet management.

For content creation, Iozzi detailed that MadCo offers content strategy and execution, video production, social media live streaming, photography, and video news releases.

Finally, for influencer and talent relations, the agency offers strategy and insights, talent and influencer recommendations, ambassador and influencer procurement, contract negotiations, press management and social amplification, onground talent management, and measurement and evaluation.

For more information, email matthew@madco.com.au or visit www.madco.com.au

Mattew Iozzi Founder MadCo. Agency

Founder of MadCo., Matt Iozzi, has an extensive background across the fashion, technology, and TV industries withing the brand development sector.

SELF ASSESSMENT GUIDE:

CREATING A CUSTOMER-CENTRIC MERCHANDISING EXPERIENCE

How does your company handle the display and promotion of products, and is your approach focused on your customer’s needs?

How does your company handle the display and promotion of products, and is your approach focused on your customer’s needs?

Welcome to the next chapter of the experience story - the merchandising experience. As an industry-leading provider of retail analytics, EDITED can help you understand not only when, where, and how your customers interact with your brand (and your competitors), but also what products they desire.

By listening to your customers and incorporating their insights throughout the merchandising process, you can establish customer-centricity as a fundamental aspect of your organisation. This approach can lead to various benefits, such as increased fullprice sales, optimised inventory and margins, enhanced customer profitability, and improved customer loyalty. In fact, according to a 2017 report by Deloitte, companies that prioritise customer-centricity are 60percent more profitable compared to those that don’t.

Now is the time to optimise your brand's merchandising experience through a customercentric strategy. Use EDITED’s Merchandising Experience Self-Assessment Index to evaluate

your current practices and identify where you can further enhance your efforts.

EDITED’S MERCHANDISING EXPERIENCE SELF-ASSESSMENT INDEX GUIDE

EDITED’s Merchandising Experience SelfAssessment Index presents a series of thoughtprovoking questions and criteria, taking into account customer preferences, assortment planning, pricing strategies, and the overall customer experience.

Upon completion of the assessment, your business will receive a score based on four distinct categories: Novice, Advanced Beginner, Competent, and Proficient.

EDITED below defines the characteristics of each score level, and provides actionable solutions to propel your retail business toward the next level of customer-centric merchandising.

LEVEL 1: NOVICE

Your current merchandising process is very traditional and product-focused. With this product-centric mindset, you’re likely prioritising product features, quality, and historical performance to price and determine buy-quantities above other, customer-centric factors. Your primary goal is to drive sales and generate revenue. You are focused on metrics such as units sold, and gross margin and are mainly looking at historical, internal sales performance data.

By taking our Merchandising Experience Self-Assessment you clearly understand the importance of customer-centricity. You may be in the early stages of implementing customerfocused strategies, like localising assortment and pricing architectures for customers across regions and channels.

How can you optimise your merchandising experience with a customer-centric approach?

To create a more customer-centric merchandising experience, you’ll want to invest in tools and systems that will allow you to better

understand your customer preferences. Your main priority is to gather customer feedback, A crucial first step is to fully understand the market from your customers’ perspective. Use EDITED’s retail analytics platform to gain valuable insights into the key players in your market, emerging trends, how competitors’ assortments are structured and the pricing and discounting activity that customers are responding to.

LEVEL 2: ADVANCED BEGINNER

At the advanced beginner level, your retail business has made progress in understanding customer needs and preferences and consistently analyses the market to make customer focused decisions. You’ve already implemented some customer-centric initiatives, and likely improved the customers’ experience with better communication, more aligned pricing and the right products in your assortment.

However, the implementation of customercentric merchandising practices remains somewhat restricted, lacking the integration

of customer insights and preferences into assortment planning and merchandising decisions. The absence of available connected data is impacting your ability to successfully merchandise across multiple channels. Although basic attempts at personalisation based on general customer segments or demographics may exist, personalised recommendations and customised product assortments are not yet fully realised.

How can you optimise your merchandising experience with a customer-centric approach?

Optimising your merchandising experience means developing a deeper understanding of your target audience by further leveraging customer and selling channel data and analytics. You need more advanced segmentation techniques to deliver more personalised experiences and a holistic view of performance across your whole business to define better merchandising strategies across each one.

EDITED’s retail analytics platform will provide your business with comprehensive data and insights on customer behaviour, preferences, and buying patterns by channel. This allows your business to perform advanced customer segmentation based on various criteria such as demographics and purchasing habits. You’ll be able to understand your customers at a deeper level and tailor your merchandising strategies accordingly. You can then use this information to optimise assortment, pricing and promotional activity by focusing these inputs around key customers. This will support in driving more profitable outcomes, delivering

more personalised and localised promotions, and personalised communication strategies.

LEVEL 3: COMPETENT LEVEL

At the competent level, your retail business has a well-established customer-centric approach. You have a deep understanding of your target audience and actively tailor your products, services, and experiences to meet customer demands. This level may involve advanced customer segmentation, data-driven decision-making, and proactive customer engagement strategies.

How can you optimise your merchandising experience with a customer-centric approach?

To become proficient at customer-centric merchandising, your entire organisation must understand the value of customer-centricity and work collectively to deliver exceptional experiences. Unlock data siloes from across the business and encourage transparency from planning to merchandising and buying to digital and marketing to ensure that key data points are being connected and allowing you to unlock valuable new metrics.

EDITED can assist your business in providing training and education to employees regarding customer-centric best practices. By leveraging connected data, cross-functional teams gain access to previously unseen insights and analysis which drive customer-centric planning, trading and marketing strategies.

LEVEL 4: PROFICIENT LEVEL

At the proficient level, your retail business excels in customer-centric merchandising and consistently exceeds customer expectations. You’ll have a customer-first culture, and deliver highly personalised experiences, exceptional customer service, seamless omnichannel integration, and continuous innovation based on customer feedback.

How can you optimise your merchandising experience with a customer-centric approach?

Be sure you’re always fostering an organisation that works cross-functionally. Sharing resources, data sources and insights is key, and ongoing investment in organisational process improvements and team building are crucial. Furthermore, de-avergaging your customer and focusing on more granular activities at scale can only be achieved with automation. But your automated actions need to be enriched with profit and customer focused insights to truly drive a customer-centric experience. EDITED AIdriven merchandising experience platform will ensure your teams are able to surface and action the most crucial data points so you can surgically

merchandise, price and market your product at a customer-level to maximise profit.

CREATE AN OPTIMIZED CUSTOMERCENTRIC MERCHANDISING EXPERIENCE WITH EDITED

Moving from one level to the next in your customer-centric journey requires increasing the connection of your data (customer, marketing and competitor) and increasing automation activity. It’s a combination of understanding your customer needs, gathering insights (both internally and externally), implementing personalisation strategies, fostering a customer-centric culture, and leveraging advanced technologies. Merchandising experience is an ongoing journey that involves continuous improvement and adaptation based on changing customer expectations and market dynamics.

EDITED understands the commitment and changes a business must make to create a more customer-centric merchandising experience. As such, EDITED's platform will assist your retail business in focusing on the merchandising experience through a range of services and solutions. With EDITED's expertise in connecting business analytics and external market data, it offers valuable resources that enable businesses to align their merchandising strategies and operations with customer needs and preferences.

BLUEbliss

As we bid farewell to the winter frost and eagerly anticipate the blooming of spring, fashion enthusiasts around the world are anxiously awaiting the next wave of trends to grace the runways. And if one colour has captured the collective imagination of designers' Spring 2024 collections across the globe, it's the captivating and versatile shades of blue.

This upcoming season, designers are incorporating shades of blue into their collections, redefining the traditional notion of springtime aesthetics and taking a side step away from traditional florals. Soft baby blues like Mara 112167 from Mr Saturday's RTW Spring 2024 collection were reminiscent of the

delicate and cooling side that blue hues could bring.

Meanwhile, rich navy tones command attention with depth and sophistication, as seen in Vetements RTW Spring 2024 collection. The deep layered hues of blue were a close match to Mara 10-967 and stood out on the runway with its exaggerated silhouettes.

Mara 9-322 reflects the vibrant energy of tropical destinations, transporting us to sun-kissed beaches and balmy summer nights. This cerulean ensemble was a standout look from Sara Battaglia's RTW Spring 2024 collection.

But why are shades of blue experiencing such a resurgence in the Spring 2024 collections? The answer

lies in the inherent versatility of this colour palette. While blue seamlessly blends with other colours, allowing for endless styling possibilities, most collections that debuted a blue runway look left it as a monochromatic statement. Leaving the hues of blue like Mara 11-5396 to speak for themselves like this look by The Row.

Internationally Spring 2024 collections offer myriad ways to incorporate shades of blue into our wardrobes. From flowing, ethereal dresses in dreamy pastels to tailored power suits in bold cobalt, designers are embracing the blue revolution. An intense cobalt look like Mara 10-197

was found at Dior's RTW Spring 2024, where they incorporated embroidery cascading down the garments. The hues of blue for Spring 2024 promise to be a season of renewal and reinvention, and graphic artwork has been rapidly increasing across collections. We highlighted this popular piece by Charles Jeffrey in a hue like Mara 11-761.

Every MARA order placed in August puts you in the draw to win a pair of sunglasses from Terry Apparel, frames selected from www. sunglassco.com.au T&C's apply.

Threads available from

0800 837 797

MARA 11-761

MARA 10-197

MARA 11-5396

THE ROW

DIOR

SHAPING BASALAJ BEAUTY AND ELEVATING NEW ZEALAND'S BEAUTY INDUSTRY

What has set Basalaj Beauty apart is its unwavering commitment to offering effective and highperformance beauty solutions for a diverse array of skin types and tones. The 1985 colour palette is every makeup artist's dream, with a special mention to Maverick—the blackest eyeshadow available on the market.

Basalaj was in awe of the idea of makeup and beauty from a young age. "I loved how it made people feel when they used it. I wanted to replicate that powerful feeling which only has grown as I have gotten older," she explained.

Her passion for fashion and beauty has been a lifelong journey that later led her to create her beauty brand. "Creating a brand has been a long but very exciting process. I am so proud to finally have it off the ground. Being a part of the industry has been so fulfilling."

Basalaj created the brand to empower women to feel their best confident selves and know they can achieve anything simply by adding a bold lipstick or all the way to a full makeup look. At the same time, she wanted to create a company that strives to be diverse and show beauty in all its forms.

The label is bold, high performing and unapologetic in its presentation. Basalaj had a clear vision of creating a makeup line that is outside the norm regarding colour choices and formulas to encourage people to step outside their comfort zones and do what makes them feel good.

She sources her inspiration from colours and how they impact her mood while also paying close attention to aesthetics in terms of colour placements within a palette. She also attempts to create products that are the best on the market by using high-quality ingredients with a large colour payoff that feel amazing to the touch.

"Basalaj Beauty is high-performing and hardworking. Everything about us is about pushing boundaries, from formulations to packaging and advertising campaigns," Basalaj stated.

A lot of attention to detail is made when curating the products. Basalaj has created stackable palettes that are easy to store and flat surface lipsticks to avoid slipping away. The packaging is an important aspect also; with her son Jayedan's help, they created an unboxing experience that feels amazing and luxurious to each consumer.

When advising her younger self, Basalaj would encourage herself and tell herself she

would make it. "No matter what, hard times will pass, so enjoy the process and keep going. Mistakes do not define you; they create you, so stay true to your vision and never give up." Her advice for anyone else is to believe in yourself and your business idea. Anything is possible if you believe in it and work hard.

Her marriage and two children are what keep her pushing each and every day to do better and never give up. Creating Basalaj Beauty has been a huge achievement for her, and she is proud to have something that not only fulfils her dreams but has connected her to so many amazing people in the industry.

The future for Basalaj is to continue working

I think it is so amazing that Basalaj Beauty can work to help raise funds for incredible causes that matter,

Amber Basalaj has created one of New Zealand's finest high-performance makeup brands that genuinely delivers, she has also single-handedly dominated the top spots in New Zealand.

hard and pushing for more growth. While at the same time continuing to support local artists, creatives and raising funds for incredible causes like Fashion for a Cure.

Basalaj Beauty is the key makeup sponsor that is partnered with Fashion for a Cure, staging over 10 shows around New Zealand each year. An incredibly generous individual, Amber Basalaj always prioritises giving back in her business. She has quickly become a leading figure in the New Zealand beauty industry. Her passion, expertise, and dedication enabled her to swiftly rise and become a driving force in the beauty realm.

"My good friend Joanne passed away from breast cancer, so my first highlighter 'Joanne' was named after her. I think it is so amazing that Basalaj Beauty can work to help raise funds for incredible causes that matter, and so a big part of my vision is ensuring we can continue to support these causes into the future and I can keep the memory of Joanne alive."

Basalaj Beauty is the official beauty partner for New Zealand Fashion Week 2023. "Being offered the beauty partnership for NZFW is a dream come true. To be able to showcase our products alongside so many talented New Zealand designers on the stage at Fashion Week is an amazing accomplishment for us. Fashion and Beauty have always underpinned who I am so to create a brand that is then recognised by such a prestigious event in New Zealand is a real pinch me moment. I am so grateful to Yasmin and the team for believing in our brand, our capabilities and for backing a local company to support them and the designers this year."

Basalaj recently travelled to Los Angeles, which was filled with excellent press coverage of her and her brand, giving Basalaj Beauty a global presence with offers for key placements at New York Fashion Week. "I am ecstatic about the fantastic global opportunities to showcase

my brand, but I was constantly reminded of the genuine struggles for budding businesses in New Zealand," Basalaj said. "I observed that some ventured offshore because New Zealand didn't welcome them, and once they gained international recognition, New Zealand would finally embrace them."

It was a startling insight and an alarming pattern that a significant fraction of New Zealand brands weren't obtaining the support they merited from their fellow citizens despite the nation's astounding array of talent and

creativity. This trend spanned various sectors, from fashion, food, technology, and more.

Consumer perception plays a major role in this challenge, where some consumers view imported goods as superior or more coveted than local products. Additionally, many New Zealand consumers need to be made aware of the depth and quality of products designed and crafted in the country.

Government agencies strive to boost global support for New Zealand brands, but what about within New Zealand?

"I believe local brands and talent are the backbone of our community, and it is clear that the time has come for New Zealand consumers to reconsider their purchasing choices and recognise the vital role they play in supporting local innovation and entrepreneurship. By choosing local brands, consumers can contribute to a brighter future for their communities and foster economic growth whilst upholding the spirit of innovation that has become synonymous with New Zealand."

I believe local brands and talent are the backbone of our community,

SHJARK

Owner and designer of Shjark, Amber Gardner, shared that her latest No. 16 Summer 2023 collection was emblematic of the brand's philosophy of quiet luxury. Quiet luxury is a fashion trend that has come in and out of the spotlight which has been maintained throughout Shjark's lifeblood as a brand.

"The new collection can be described as having clean lines, classic yet undeniably modern, lust-worthy yet timeless," said Gardner.

Gardner wanted to deliver an uplifting summer collection to reflect Shjark's commitment to the timeless elegance that has defined the brand while remaining relevant and forward-thinking.

She continued that the collection was a culmination of pieces that make both the right statement for the summer season and could be a forever staple in customers' wardrobes.

Shjark's collections are an extension of Gardner's vision of creating complete, modular wardrobes that meet the needs of the Shjark customer.

"Needs and wants are always the starting and ending points in my design process."

This new collection nods to Shjark's founding ethos of prioritising form and function, offering versatile staples that can seamlessly transition between seasons.

Summer tends to be a more relaxed offering for Gardner than winter, reflecting the New Zealand lifestyle, as each of the materials chosen for the new collection is grounded in premium quality with practicality to take customers from the beach to a barbeque with ease. The range includes drapey linens and textured cotton for breathable, durable daily go-to's and fluid and flowing tencels that have been purposefully and artfully cut into occasion wear.

Coming from a tailoring background, Gardner prefers working with traditional techniques, with each item of clothing and collection having a refined focus on creating the perfect cut, either through tailoring or a bias-draped evening gown.

For this new collection, Gardner imagines that it is perfect for a Shjark customer that has an understated sense of style and appreciates the confidence and elegance that comes with wearing perfectly cut, quality garments that are timeless and polished while being perfectly undone.

"She seeks pieces that resonate with her style

and empowers her to make a statement without needing to be loud or ostentatious."

She continued that the Shjark customer would look for and cherish staple pieces with versatile styles that can easily transition from everyday wear to special occasions, a collection aligned with her lifestyle and embodying the brand's commitment to enduring elegance.

The new collection is a consistent aesthetic and growth from Gardner's previous works. Rather than making giant leaps between each, she prefers to have the new collection be a natural progression and evolution of ideas from previous works.

"I approach each new collection by introducing subtle yet impactful elements that breathe fresh life into the overall offering."

Continuity, consistency and coherence are maintained throughout each new collection, allowing Shjark's customers to build and expand their wardrobes where pieces from each collection can complement each other. However, colour and voluminous silhouettes can be noticed in this new collection, influenced by current fashion trends, which Gardner has said she has enjoyed working with.

Two standout pieces hold special significance for Gardner in her latest collection. Firstly, Shark's signature print this season has been a fresh and exciting addition to the range.

"While prints aren't typically prominent in my designs, this one strikes the perfect balance, boasting beautiful colours that seamlessly complement the collection. The fabric, milled and printed in France for us, possesses a delightful drapey quality, making it a joy to wear during the warmer months."

Secondly, staying true to Shjark's traditions, Gardner has designed a coat that stands out as a forever piece this season. The trench coat embodies a timeless classic, a grab-and-go showerproof essential with a fashion silhouette. Gardner continued that despite the coat's impressive presence, it remains light and travelfriendly, making it effortless to carry along wherever a customer goes.

JOJO ROSS

The latest Jojo Ross drop has taken cues from her conceptual past, which flows continually through with Ross' signature sculptural and structural designs. Ross said that her inspiration for each drop is not prescriptive, nor is it the result of a fleeting moment; instead, it is a quiet evolution of things that are inherently her style. Some of Ross' continued inspirations are found in outer space, science, architecture, and in the natural world, anywhere that doesn't feel like 'here'.

This is the second drop for Jojo Ross in 2023 and has evolved since the first with the inclusion of warm winter styles and fabrics, as well as some spring-dreaming pieces. Ross said that each piece took a lot of consideration and perfecting.

"I've really focussed on stripping everything back to the perfect minimalist cut and strong silhouettes but extremely wearable for our customers," said Ross.

The Yuki Jacket is a new addition to the collection, which Ross described as nothing but

a beautiful sleeve and body in luch wool or 100 percent silk. The La Bouche Dress combines a contrast pleated corset-like centre panel with split sleeves, whilst the Mystics Dress and Top have bell sleeves and a pleated waist.

For a classic and minimalist look, Ross suggested the Hover Top, a full-sleeved style made into a new pleated storm print, whilst the Daydream Longsleeve Top this season has a straight fitted sleeve, a new edition of one of the most popular and enduring basic styles from the label.

The Dolly Jacket has been made from a fluffy wool blend, elevating the cardigan-like style with its tailored pattern. The Soirée Dress is a softly fitting evening dress with a superstripped back and made from a chain mail sequin, and the Otherworldly Coat is now a fully-lined coat with a belt, which is also available in a puffer form as well as an easywearing bouclé knit style.

"Our other enduring styles compliment these in new colourways or with updated fastenings.

Key fabrics include the last of our beautiful Italian Plisse's, beautiful new 100 percent wool coatings with a cashmere finish, and fluffy wool blends in black and lipstick."

Ross added that the pleated storms print in both sand and ocean, a thick 100 percent silk gold snake material, and several Italian suiting blends also make an appearance.

Of all the new styles, Ross admitted that her heart melts for both the Yuki Jacket and Otherworldly Coat in the ecru shade. She said that the wool is divine to touch and wear and that it felt very special to try it on.

A personal highlight of releasing the new drop for Ross was to see the customer's reaction to finding the garments in the store.

"I'm excited to drop the remainder of this range at the beginning of September for our Spring pieces, which include our new La Bouche Dress. It features a ruched and pleated panel which creates an almost corset-like look. I have a queue of customers waiting for them, so I can't wait to have them in-store."

Since beginning her label in 2016, Jojo Ross has been known for her use of bold shapes, tailoring, and industrial finishing, as well as the prints, patterns, and colours that adorn her garments.

WORLD

Benny Castles, designer and creative director of WORLD, said the brand was fortunate to enjoy a wide range of characters, where he loved to see how individuals put themselves together and use WORLD's ideas to present their personalities.

"Beyond that, we are so surrounded by fabulous entertainment from music to movies, it is hard not to be inspired; I recently found a new button detail from a 50s Cowboy film that we could re-interpret," said Castles.

When creating something new, Castles enjoys creating something unexpected, often orientated around colour and texture. WORLD has several thoughtful, playful fabric importers who have a keen eye for finding the fabric perfectly matched for an idea.

"You may walk in thinking ‘I want a new black pant’, but walk out with a shimmering red dress, a perfume from Spain and an antique cut crystal wine glass. Now that's fun shopping."

Castles currently has a fabric that is equal parts ridiculous and fabulous, where he is experimenting with various ideas to see how far he can push its potential to make a piece or two come to life.

The WORLD brand exists on the premise of presenting ideas and experiments created in collaboration with a myriad of brands and creatives WORLD works with. Whether customers shop online or in-store, WORLD allows individuals to discover something they'd never known they needed. Its team and customers inspire their collections.

WORLD consistently tries new things, using new techniques or technologies to innovate its clothing pieces. They have recently released two shower-proof coats, which were crafted through a combination of fabrications not often seen together, with the WORLD team's aim to create a piece of the most practical nature that is simultaneously elegant and polished.

Made-to-measure is a segment of WORLD that has continued to grow where the brand works directly with the customer to create specific, one-of-a-kind garments, which Castles described range from terribly serious outfits to entirely outlandish pieces. This part of the business pushes the team, propelling them to find new ways to create and design.

The WORLD customer is anyone and everyone, with Castles' defining prerequisite being all those with a heartbeat. He added that a WORLD wearer has character and cannot be defined, but despite this, all share a specific type of curiosity.

"A story I like to tell new team members is from when I started at WORLD, seemingly a million years ago, where two customers found and acquired the same suit on the same day. One was a 70-year-old and the other a 17-year-old."

The ever-changing world landscape has not

much impacted the WORLD brand regarding what it designs, creates, or offers at retail, as it recognises the one constant in retail is change. This aligns with WORLD's philosophy as a brand and commitment to continuing to offer customers, either online or in-store, something new.

Whether it offers a small run of exclusive garments, new fragrances, or artwork, WORLD almost always has a new piece or offering to release each week. WORLD wants to ensure that all its visitors, regular or otherwise, continue to be surprised and delighted by their experience.

While WORLD prides itself and enjoys innovating and offering new ideas, it keenly avoids falling into the trend trap, preferring to keep its head down in its work and remaining true to crafting pieces exactly what WORLD loves.

"We hope to make garments that are loved and last in the wardrobe, enjoyed and worn but also cherished."

WORLD is excited to present Cire Trudon's 380th Anniversary Collection of candles and room scent objects. Castles added that Cire Trudon's history and skills are extraordinary and inspiring.

He continued that WORLD has three new blazers being completed later in the month.

It used some of the most beautiful fabrics Castles had ever seen, with curious colour and pattern combinations in gorgeous brocade textures. These unique fabrics will create an extremely limited collection, with the prospect of which clients might be the first to get their hands on the new pieces, which gives Castles tremendous joy.

WORLD recently remodelled and amplified a collection of Steven Adams basketball attire for his yearly charity fundraiser. It also combines with pet accessory brand Mr Soft Top for the Pet Refuge and continually works with brands and businesses on their uniforms.

"Our most ongoing cherished relationship is with IHC New Zealand. Dame Denise L'Estrange-Corbet, our co-founder, is a Patron of the IHC Art Awards."

This year WORLD has partnered with the fabulous AF drinks, where artworks from WORLD in the competition on AF Drinks Dry July boxes were used.

Their annual WORLD Legacy Project fundraiser is in late August, where artworks by leading New Zealand and international Artists are auctioned at Webb's Auction House to benefit the IHC Art Awards.

"Fashion agents and wholesalers play a key role in shaping the industry by connecting designers and brands with retailers and consumers. Navigating through the pandemic's uncertainties, a deep sense of camaraderie with our clients was strongly felt. It reinforced the importance of having a local presence in New Zealand.

The fashion industry has been actively advancing towards greater inclusivity and diversity. Showcasing a wider range of body types, genders, ethnic backgrounds, and abilities in fashion campaigns, runway presentations, and clothing collections.

There has also been a significant shift towards sustainability and ethical practices. Consumers have become more conscious of the environmental and social impact of their fashion choices, leading to increased demand for sustainable and ethically produced clothing."

-

Amanda Smith-Ataria

"The industry has changed drastically. Lifestyle and knitwear always tends to work well in Australia. The customer is very educated and savvy and with tough retail conditions it’s all about identifying the key categories which sell. Simply, there has to be a story to every brand. Customers have to love the product and want better quality and better fabrics."

- Phoebes Garland

"In recent years, the fashion landscape in New Zealand and Australia has undergone minimal evolution, with trends primarily influenced by luxury brands and the US market rather than Europe. Notably there has been a significant shift towards sustainable and eco-friendly products. While the pandemic brought forth a surge in comfort-focused items, the current shift is towards more structured and dressier choices. Fashion now embodies a lifestyle approach, emphasising transpersonal and wearable products. Fashion agents and wholesalers have played a vital role in shaping this landscape by ensuring precise brand distribution aligned with each brand’s vision."

- Jarrod Garth

Jarrod Garth

AS

FASHION

AND MEET THE EVERCHANGING DEMANDS OF CONSUMERS?

"We always look beyond our local market to international fashion hubs for inspiration and to anticipate global trends. We gain valuable insights into these trends via the diverse range of international brands we collaborate with. Social media also provides immediate insight into global trends and consumer behaviours."

- Amanda Smith-Ataria

"Always keep looking, always work with brands that can take feedback good and bad and are committed to evolve as retail conditions change. To be successful in fashion you must constantly look at what’s happening in all ends of the fashion industry and make sure your offering is catered to customer demands as market conditions change. Acknowledge the players who are doing a great job in their field and find where you can make your mark with a strong point of difference."

- Phoebes Garland

"As a fashion agent/wholesaler, our strategies to stay ahead of emerging trends and meet evolving consumer demands are multifaceted. We prioritise staying well-informed about the latest trends, particularly those originating from luxury and US markets, which serve as influential sources. Rapid adaptation is key, facilitated by a keen understanding of sales data to discern successful trends from less viable ones. This dynamic, trading-oriented mindset ensures responsiveness to both best-selling styles and under-performers."

- Jarrod Garth

IN YOUR EXPERIENCE, WHAT ARE THE KEY CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIES THAT FASHION AGENTS AND WHOLESALERS FACE, PARTICULARLY IN RELATION TO SUSTAINABILITY AND ETHICAL PRACTICES? HOW DO YOU NAVIGATE THESE CHALLENGES WHILE MAINTAINING PROFITABILITY?

"Navigating a small country's market can pose difficulties. Collaborating with international partners enables us to access a broader range of brands, enhancing our market offering.

The pandemic prompted increased awareness of sustainability and ethical practices. We have to consider these factors when selecting brands and products to represent, aligning with changing consumer values.

Prioritising brand integrity is essential. Thoughtfully positioning each brand is key to avoiding market saturation. We work closely with each client, retailer and brand to provide a personalised service that meets their unique needs."

- Amanda Smith-Ataria

"Price and affordability is always a consideration with sustainability. Realistically, sometimes the customer can’t afford pieces that are ethically made and sustainably made, which is an issue. Educating the customer to buy better and for wholesalers to have good fashion pieces the customer can add to every season in a certain signature fabric is a good way to keep the customer spending."

-

Phoebes Garland

"Navigating the dynamic landscape as fashion agents and wholesalers presents both challenges and opportunities, particularly, concerning sustainability and ethical practices. One challenge we face stems from the need to adapt to more transpersonal product demands due to climate change and economic shifts. However, these challenges also open doors for us to capitalise on sustainability as an ongoing consumer expectation, offering a range of eco-friendly options. This entails communicating the long-term transformational plans of brands, often spanning 5-15 years, to customers, aligning them with the vision and its gradual realisation. Balancing profitability with ethical practices involves setting reasonable recommended retail prices, allowing continuous programme investment while keeping the product’s value proposition appealing."

- Jarrod Garth

HOW HAS THE FASHION LANDSCAPE IN NZ/ AUSTRALIA EVOLVED IN RECENT YEARS, AND WHAT ROLE HAVE FASHION AGENTS AND WHOLESALERS PLAYED IN SHAPING THE INDUSTRY?

A

AGENT/WHOLESALER, WHAT STRATEGIES DO YOU EMPLOY TO STAY AHEAD OF EMERGING TRENDS

National Wholesale Manager Superdry Australia & New Zealand

Amanda Smith-Ataria Director Studio Nineteen

Phoebes Garland Co-Founder Garland and Garland Fashion

The New Zealand and Australian fashion scene has undergone a decade that, while seemingly uneventful, has witnessed some significant shifts. The reimagining of casual wear, the shift from heels to sneakers, the everpresent supply chain challenges, and the desire for sustainability have collectively woven a change narrative. In this issue, we spoke to some of the architects of this shift – fashion agents and wholesalers who navigate the connection between innovation and consumption.

Sustainability is not a trend, it is a way of life.

PAPER SCISSORS CLOTH

Sourcing Ethical Fabric, Yarn & Supplies

The world is asking #whomademyclothes? Soon they’ll be asking #whomademyfabric?

Paper Scissors Cloth source sustainable textiles and trims from transparent supply chains. They are building a community where makers and designers can connect, learn about circular design and buy textiles produced with integrity.

Want to join their posse or find out more?

Email hello@paperscissorscloth.co.nz or visit www.paperscissorscloth.co.nz

Follow Paper Scissors Cloth on Instagram @paper.scissors.cloth

HAWES & FREER

Hawes & Freer was established by Tom Hawes in 1922. It wasn't until his nephew Dennis Freer joined him in 1946 that the Hawes & Freer brand was formed. In 1985 it was sold to current owners Trevor and Merran Hookway.

Now over a century in business, the focus for Hawes & Freer has been on the wholesale division for New Zealand designers and selling to fashion students and keen home sewers. Their ranges of trimmings and fabrics are available on a low minimum basis to all customers.

The Hawes & Freer brand prides itself on offering an experience full of integrity and expertise. "We have a small but strong team that can help with any queries, whether to support you and the growth of your clothing brand or give advice and direction when creating a garment."

Take a look online to see what Hawes & Freer has to offer. Or, if you are a brand looking for special and unique fabrics or textile accessories, please get in touch so they can help you on your fashion journey.

For more information, call 09 845 3888 or visit www.hawesandfreer.co.nz.

LIANN BELLIS

Founded in 2010 by Leanne Greaves, liann bellis is a brand intent on redefining femininity through intelligent, contemporary designs that exude modern elegance and an independent spirit. Each piece is crafted with a classic, minimalist aesthetic and a modern view of femininity, ensuring timeless wearability.

The collections, made with high-quality, sustainably-sourced fabrics like wool, silk, and rich cottons, showcase the brand's commitment to both style and environmental responsibility. Grounded in authenticity, liann bellis emphasises clean lines and natural fibres, creating clothes meant to be kept, loved, and worn for years.

While acknowledging the challenges in being completely sustainable, the brand is open about its continuous efforts to minimise its environmental footprint. Inspiring individualism and experimentation, liann bellis encourages customers to explore their unique style, embodying the motto: "Authentic clothes, honestly made."

Explore their unique style at www.liannbellis.co.nz

OUTLIV

Enhance your retail collection with eco-conscious and unique style. Outliv reimagines and transforms preloved clothing and textiles into unique one-of-a-kind, New Zealand-crafted bags & accessories. Combating fast fashion’s impact, and donating to the Sea Cleaners, Outliv’s mission is to ignite a regenerative movement. Collaborate with Outliv to spotlight their remarkable range of product, championing a more sustainable world and celebrating slow fashion craftsmanship. Buy a bag, support slow and local, and combat textile waste!

For more information, call +64 21 021 55 556, email studio@outliv.co or visit www.outliv.co

TEXTILE HUB

Empowering creativity and sustainability with industry specific short courses. Textile Hub, recently co-founded by textile professional, Peter Heslop, and digital fashion designer, Alysha Gover, empowers new skill development through its curated digital design and informative short course programme. Join Textile Hub and embark on a transformative learning journey that combines creativity, technology and sustainability. Discover the power of digital design education and unlock your potential to shape the future of fashion and textiles.

These interactive short courses equip learners with essential knowledge and digital skills to inspire a new mind-set shift towards more sustainable design practices.

For more information, email info@textilehub.co.nz or visit www.textilehub.co.nz

SAUCESWIM

SAUCEswim explores creative expression within our own female and non-binary community. Each collection is made in collaboration with creators, celebrating each artist and their individual journey. Handmade in Australia, SAUCE values ethical and conscious production, by using only recycled fabrics and releasing small collections (did someone say exclusive?!).

The end result is an original, top tier swim piece that lasts years in your wardrobe. It’s conscious swimwear for the curious soul.

For more information or to become a stockist email info@sauceswim.com or visit www.sauceswim.com

TAYLOR

taylor artfully highlights the beauty of simple, long lasting, materials through sophisticated designs.

The boutique brand, established by designer Vicki Taylor in 1999, caters to the time-challenged woman, endeavouring to empower and elevate a sense of self through thoughtful design and unparalleled styling experiences.

taylor explores a contrasting of elements; where structure is juxtaposed with fluidity and each garment features unexpected details.

The striking yet practical designs allow the wearer to effortlessly create an individual style that complements their mood and personality. taylor sets an intellectual and intimate language, reflected in the carefully selected fabrics and textures. An emphasis on impeccable tailoring seduces the wearer with its fluidity.

For more information or to become a stockist, email brand@ taylorboutique.co.nz or visit www.taylorboutique.co.nz

TAG TIME

Need Labels or Tags For Your New Fashion Line?

Look no further than Tauranga based Tag Time. They have been in the garment industry for decades and specialise in high quality, custom-made woven & printed labels for the garment industry. They supply brand labels, size pips, care labels, warning labels, polyester & satin tape, dry cleanable ribbon, stickers, tagging guns, barbs & needles. If you need to tag or label something, then they are the ones to see!

Contact them now for more information and to discuss your requirements: info@tagtime.nz

SURPLUS TRADERS

Surplus Traders is your premier destination for all retail store needs. Specialising in new and used shelving and shop fittings, they offer a comprehensive range of products to enhance your business. They cover everything, from versatile display shelving to four-way clothing racks and sign holders. They have an extensive collection of clothing racks, mannequins, torsos, mesh, pegboard, and more.

Surplus Traders provide tailored solutions for retail fittings, displays and showcases. Look no further if you need slatwall sheets or a complete clothing wall system.

Trust Surplus Traders to elevate your retail space.

10% discount* on mention of this advert during your next purchase!

*Cannot be used in conjunction with other discounts, and expired Oct 31st.

For more information, call 09 828 2010 or visit www.surplustraders.co.nz

OOSTEROM

Oosterom is an Auckland-based made-to-order clothing label that celebrates the artistry of designer Nicole Hadfield and pays homage to her talented grandmother, Pietje van Oosterom. Launching in 2021, Oosterom is driven to create considered womenswear with a sharp focus on construction, tailoring and quality over quantity.

Before Oosterom, Hadfield graduated from Whitecliffe College of Arts & Design, was an in-house designer for menswear label FRENCH83, a production manager for Ingrid Starnes, and a machinist on an upcoming Netflix series.

For more information email studio@oosteromofficial.com or visit www.oosteromofficial.com

IDENTITY SOLUTIONS Ltd.

Established in 1992

New Zealand’s number one supplier of industrial sewing, embroidery, steam & curtain automated machinery.

LEADING BRANDS: Juki, Tajima, Brother, Pegasus, Jiffy, Eisenkolb, Typical, Stirovap, Siruba

Supplies custom labels, badges, care labels, size pips, swing tags, hanger tape, rivets, zip pullers, stickers & packaging.

All our products are custom, made to measure working with various materials such as, woven threads, printing, embroidery, embossing, recyclables, natural organic cotton, metal, silicone rubber, leathers, paper or card. Creating the best identity for your brand is crucial.

We guarantee only the highest quality accurately delivered.

Don’t be shy! Get in touch and start creating with us.

CECILIA KANG COUTURE

With almost six years of experience under her belt, Cecilia Kang has already made a name for herself as an up-and-coming designer to watch.

Cecilia first debuted her eponymous label at New Zealand Fashion Week in 2018 as part of the New Generation Emerging Couture show. There, she made history as Aotearoa’s first transgender woman to showcase at the prestigious international event.

Cecilia has since continued to push boundaries and challenge the status quo with her bold and innovative couture designs. She has developed a signature style that is both distinctive and fashion-forward in each of her detailed and skillfully crafted pieces.

Cecilia is collaborating with Estele NZ for NZFW 2023 – a brand that’s been in business for 30 years and operates in 10 countries.

Beautiful handcrafted, ethically produced jewellery. Women centric brand with over 80 percent female employees that believes in the vision of a product designed by women, manufactured by women and sold by women, to women."

NZ FUNDING INVESTMENTS LIMITED

Helping Grow NZ Small Business. So you have the skills to grow your Business but you are currently lacking the financial “clout” to turn those Confirmed Purchase Orders into Sales!

What we do is very simple: We will fund confirmed Purchase Orders from your clients in order that you can get the stock in the door and sold to your clients before you have to repay us. (No onerous banking security requirements.)

Call +64 9 414 9474 today for a chat or a coffee and let’s see what we can do to assist you in growing your Business. Visit www.nzfundinginvestments.co.nz or email steven@nzfundinginvestments.co.nz

PERA MAY

Pera May explores creative moments to inspire conscious movements. Crafted ethically in Aotearoa, New Zealand. The ‘Take No Prisoners’ designer offers a refreshing approach to object-jewellery and conscious fashion. Creations are limited and uniquely handmade for the extraordinary human. Two become one, unified in a dynamic expression. For more information, visit www.peramay.com.

Follow them on Instagram @peramay___

276 Manukau Road, Epsom, Auckland, New Zealand

Contact: Rachel Beechey

T: +64 9 520 5290

E: rachel@roses.co.nz

www.roses.co.nz

Unit 2A, 8 Corban Avenue, Henderson, Auckland, New Zealand

Contact: Shay Narsey

T: +64 9 838 8674 or +64 21 274 2910

E: info@directsewing.co.nz

www.directsewing.co.nz

Industrial Sewing Machines • Embroidery Machines • Ironing Equipment • Cutting Machines • Domestic Machines • Pattern & Quilting Equipment • Needles • Parts, Accessories and more

ALYSSA LLOYD

Started out of a genuine love for fashion and high quality garments, Alyssa Lloyd strives to help women create more conscious wardrobes. Designed with intention by Chloe Win and made exclusively in New Zealand, all Alyssa Lloyd garments are made with the principles of slow fashion in mind. Their classic and contemporary styles, coupled with high quality, natural fabrics combine to create a curated collection of items wearers can turn to time and time again.

Visit www.alyssalloyd.co.nz or follow on Instagram @alyssalloyd.design

31a Elliot Street, Papakura, Auckland, New Zealand

Contact: Shannon Gribble

T: +64 9 299 6801

E: info@stirlingcutting.co.nz

www.stirlingcutting.co.nz

• Fully Automated & Manual Cutting Service

• Pattern Making

• Marker Making

• Digitising & Grading

• Block Fusing

PROVIDING A SEAMLESS SERVICE FROM DESIGN THROUGH TO PATTERN MAKING AND CUTTING