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THE TRIBE HAS SPOKEN New Zealand Fashion Week in my opinion has been facing an uphill battle for a long time. Buyers have long been left idle while consumers take the front row for the past few years (refer to every September editors note I have had in the last six years where I report first hand what happened each year). Where is the return on investment? Where are the buyers? Is it time we completely switch fashion week to a completely consumer event showcasing Spring/Summer instead of Autumn/Winter 2022? Sell the tickets,
Cheaper for designers. More buyers. Making it easier for offsite designers to showcase.
I think there needs to be time/shows/days that are dedicated to the buyers. It seems over the last few years NZFW has become about celebrities in the front row of the trade shows. I think there needs to be a focus back on the buyers for some of the days and shows by designers.
Anyone who is serious about trade will show in Australia or internationally. I can’t imagine that NZ fashion week is worth it for the cost for brands hoping to sell to retailers.
make it consumer, sell the garments straight off the runway with paywave. Whatever we do, we have to make some money for the industry or we simply can’t continue. We asked our readers how fashion week could improve and evolve to further benefit the industry – here’s what our readers had to say. We received an overwhelming amount of entries, with many overlapping opinions, so here are the highlights. If you disagree or want to have your say, I welcome you to send us an email or submit a letter to the editor here.
That's an interesting question. For somebody who owns one of NZ's last remaining on-shore manufacturing plants, (We are not in the fashion game) I've always enjoyed watching NZFW from afar. But my question has always been, how is it growing our reputation and growing export growth? Or is it just a bit of a fun get together for those in the trade? I don't know? If it was open more to the public as opposed to strictly industry, you may get bigger buy-in from the NZ consumer. If however the focus of the show is to grow overseas markets - then that needs a different direction. I think there is probably a huge amount of data that could be gleaned from previous shows. It could possibly do with some serious market research before deciding what it wants to be/should be. I personally know Feroz and he is a fairly astute businessman and he will be looking for results.
I sell clothing around the country. I have many retailers (around 90), who have never been to fashion week. If it’s not for our NZ retailers to come and buy from then who is it for? There is a gift fair, there is a shoe fair but NZ doesn’t have a clothes fair. I’m from the UK and the events at Birmingham NEC were amazing. Industry buying at its best. We have many NZ designers selling throughout NZ and Australia offering amazing design, service and quality. I'm currently inviting all of my customers to become delegates and come to our group show with 2 other NZ brands to launch next season. We are focusing on buying local and supporting NZ business. As my buyers cannot travel overseas I have about 30 of them coming to NZFW to see our launch of AW22. I have also booked an apartment at the Wynyard Quarter so my customer can view my collection as well as see other Auckland brands. I intend to push every August for more of my customers to come up to Auckland, and base everything around NZFW. It can be the highlight of their week. Many of them come up for the Gift Fair so if they could both be at the same time. If a buying space could be around the NZFW venue then suppliers and buyers can take up the same space. Just makes sense. Also a fabulous event to get our industry interacting as a group. The knowledge together is huge, however many are working very much by themselves and need help to service.
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Every year there are less and less buyers. There is no point in going just to sit in the back row. Designers and organisers prefer views on social media than actual sales. Pointless event.
There are so few vehicles out in the NZ Fashion Marketplace that have a rating that NZ Fashion Week needs to survive to remain the last existing icon for the industry. The need to change is a given and annual progression forwards always keeps it fresh. Just look at Popstars on TV currently. With some interactive stuff, singers have been encouraged and we learn the winner tonight. The journey for the contestants is a bit like the young fashion designers we have here in NZ. Exposure is all important to give them half a chance at something that is already extremely difficult. How does an Industry Trade Show keep going when the numbers are so reduced. Whoever can provide the answer will be much appreciated.
I believe all organisations and events need to evolve and it's great news that someone with the resources and fresh appetite to protect and shepherd the event into the future is a good thing for NZ.
Change is always good and if any changes are in the best interest of the industry then I'm all for it. I believe that NZFW is a crucial part of our fashion industry.
editor's note
Include more shows for emerging designers, have workshops for designers, side shows for the public.
Upcycled fashion only using reclaimed materials and off cuts. Locally and ethically made.
I feel NZ fashion week needs to become an inclusive event not an exclusive event. Here if you are in fashion and are not showing... it is like you never exist... if you try to run a fashion event during fashion week for your clients, you are told not to and threatened with legal action. Just because you are talking about a fashion event during the same week as fashion week. When you visit other fashion weeks around the world, there are always many events all happening throughout the city as part of on and off the schedule, this is what adds the buzz to the fashion weeks. For example; colette in Paris has a Le labo pop-up selling a PFW fragrance - this is not an on or off schedule event, it just makes everyone feel the fashion week buzz. Or World of Wearable Arts in Wellington, hold a window display competition every year during their shows for all retailers to enter. Prize is substantial, AMEX is a sponsor, etc. All stores try hard and advertise WoW in almost every retail store window. This is trying to integrate the event to be inclusive of the city and therefore build it so everyone holds their own mini events, the whole city dresses up, and the fashion Buzz spreads a good energy through the city. From a show perspective... 1- Just allow designers to be more creative and not just a straight catwalk. 2- Bring in better quality international media and buyers.. and ensure they buy. 3- Be less cost prohibitive... We tried to host a fashion week networking event in our store - for international and local media, buyers and designers etc - fully at our cost as fashion week is also about networking not just seeing shows - no cost to NZFW - but to be included on the NZFW schedule was over $7,000 cost!!
“I think nz fashion week should evolve definitely. How about bringing local buyers and overseas buyers to come for the shows. We need more exposure to the world.
Make it more accessible from small operators/ designers. Smaller designers could have a special category, the cost can be affordable for them to get their product out there. The criteria quality would need to be strict as NZ must represent quality. We are a country of SMEs and that's where our focus needs to be, to support and help these enterprises get out there. It's all good showing the world big flashy designers but there is a lot of untapped talent in NZ. Bringing manufacturing back to NZ should be promoted as well. Show the world how resourceful we can be.
So I know lots of people go to get free products etc, but there is a huge amount of waste, the amount of packaging on products in goodie bags at last times apparently SUSTAINABLE event was appalling. The industry and promoters need to authentically wake up.
Why is it in Auckland CBD? The road works are horrendous. No parking. Terrible location, should be somewhere like ASB showgrounds simply for the creative space and PARKING.
ON THE COVER Photographer: Caitlan Mitchell Model: Devon Toi, 62 Models Stylist: Elise Hislop Bikini by Sauce Swim
Peter Mitchell Tania Walters Kieran Mitchell Sarah Mitchell
EDITOR EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE CONTENT MANAGERS GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM
I think fashion week should look at including ALL aspects of the Fashion Industry. From conception of design to hanger.
Overseas markets include vintage, recycled/ secondhand and emerging designers as well as the existing designers. It is my belief all areas should be showcased as well as showcasing the overlapped styling in the show. Too much focus on enjoying the new-from-new markets leaves us lagging behind in endeavors to promote ecofocused fashion in NZ.
Yes definitely. NZFW is a great event but not always accessible. Being able to see shows digitally including behind the scenes would really create more of an 'event' as well as one that can be seen by the people who can't get to a show. The shows really need more diversity - I personally want to see models that represent real women and men. Not models. If I am going to go then I want to be able to catch a show or two on the one day, get some great nibbles and wine before or afterwards and then be able to easily leave afterwards. I don't want to have to go between venues miles apart or feel excluded as I am not in a club?
Be part of this conversation. Let us know what you would change, what you would like to see, your gripes and your inspiration. We invite you to share your thoughts on NZFW and how we can come together to benefit the business of fashion? Share your thoughts (anonymously if you like) to help the industry benefit from a New Zealand fashion week.
behind APPAREL...
CHAIRMAN PUBLISHER ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
As the key wholesale event on the New Zealand calendar it's important it remains focused on the B2B side of the business rather than B2C. Events that have wholesale sales and PR are the most important part of Fashion Week, while Fashion Weekend should continue to focus on the end consumers and immediate sales. Wholesalers as well as all New Zealand brands should be able to participate in NZFW, on different levels of course, rather than just the biggest players.
Caitlan Mitchell Janet Guan Caroline Boe Raymund Sarmiento, Debby Wei
Retail 6, 2 Ruskin Street, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 304 0142 Email: edit@reviewmags.com This magazine is published monthly under license. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to Review Publishing Co Ltd. This magazine is a platform for the industry and may include content that expresses views and opinions by contributing writers. Content is attributed to the author, and these opinions and the view/s are those of the author/s. They do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of any other agency, organisation, employer or company. The opinions and material published in this edition are not necessarily those of the publishers unless expressly stated. All material appearing in the magazine, website and social media platforms is copyright and may only be reproduced with the written consent of the publisher. Copyright 2021
ISSN 1171-2287 (Print) ISSN 2744-5976 (Online) www.apparelmagazine.co.nz
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KIWI LABEL REPURPOSES 81SQF OF LEATHER FOR COLLECTION New Zealand accessory label Deadly Ponies is on a mission to be the world’s most responsible handbag brand as they present their second Recycle capsule, repurposing 81sqf of leather. Their Recycle capsule has come full circle returning for its second instalment in 2021. Reflecting the label's ethos and firm belief in circularity, using preloved and off-cut leathers, their latest
collection explores the smaller accessories in life with just the right dose of playfulness. “This year, we have partnered with Sustainable Coastlines, donating ten percent from every purchase of our Recycle collection, supporting cleaner coastlines and protecting our natural biodiversity.” Deadly Ponies began with creative director, Liam Bowden, taking leather scraps from tannery offcuts to create his very first designs, an ethos ingrained in their practices today. “To be fully circular, consideration of materials must be made at the design phase, with emphasis on how the piece can not just be stitched together, but taken apart. We prioritise using ethicallysourced materials with chrome-free, bio or vegetable tanning wherever possible to ensure circularity and a new ‘afterlife’.”
ANOTHER STEP TOWARDS SUSTAINABILITY For Spring 2021, H&M has taken another bold step towards its sustainability efforts. The fast fashion giant is utilising new innovative materials such as Agraloop™ Biofibre™, which has increased in scope and amount used since first introduced in H&M’s assortment. Launching 16 September, the Agraloop™ Biofibre™ has now been scaled up to the main collections since its debut in the H&M Conscious Exclusive AW20 collection. The Conscious Exclusive was an incubator for new technologies and materials. In this, they transformed food crop waste — for this collection it was oilseed hemp waste — into a natural fibre, Agraloop™ Biofibre™ can be found in several pieces, such as the sleeveless cropped hoodie and softly structured trench coat. H&M’s ambitious aim is to only use 100 percent recycled or other sustainably sourced materials by 2030.
REACHING PLASTIC-FREE BY 2023 In 2017, icebreaker launched its inaugural Transparency Report detailing what it means to be a truly sustainable business and in 2019, the brand announced its boldest ambition to date: to become plastic-free. A major highlight in this year’s Transparency Report reveals that in 2021, 91 percent of icebreaker’s total fibre composition is now merino or plantbased, with 65 percent more styles (vs 2020) being made with 100 percent merino or plant-based fibres. In 2021 alone, icebreaker forecasts to sell over 1.3 million units of 100 percent merino or plant-based apparel. “In 2019 we made a bold commitment,” said Jan Van Mossevelde, Brand President. “By 2023, our aim is for all our clothing
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to be made from merino wool or plantbased fibres. For the very small amount of petrochemical synthetics that cannot be removed, we’re working on alternatives, including using bio-based fibres for now.” icebreaker’s commitment to becoming plastic-free is especially vital now more than ever as a result of COVID-19. The pandemic not only disrupted everyday life as we know it, but has skyrocketed the use of single-use plastic consumption as more consumers shopped online, purchased disposable protective gear, and opted for bagged or wrapped produce and other grocery items. As icebreaker doubles down on the final 9 percent of plastics in its clothing, it faces some specific challenges. The synthetic fibres that remain in the range, and which are still derived from petrochemicals include elastane in underwear for stretch, nylon in socks for strength, and polyester in jackets for lightweight strength. icebreaker will continue to lead the journey to move to natural in its relentless pursuit of better and is collaborating with lead
yarn producers and biofeedstock suppliers to find natural solutions to replace traditional nylon and elastane. All of the labels are also being replaced to be made from 100 percent natural fibres by August 2022.
fast five
RECLINE IN THIS NEW CAPSULE LOUNGEWEAR RANGE
Auckland luxury designer label taylor is launching its first dedicated loungewear capsule aptly titled RECLINE next week. The collection captures their classic ‘taylor style’ in pieces that offer a stylish twist to the idea of loungewear. Your body will be cocooned in a comfortable cotton/ cashmere blend that is beautifully soft, feeling luxurious against your skin. The eternal shades of ivory, grey marle, a soft lake blue and black will transition
seamlessly into your wardrobe and will last you season after season. Dropping in-stores and online, taylor is offering its customers the chance to win back their purchase. To enter, customers need to purchase any RECLINE piece in-store or online, sign up to our database and will be in to win the value of their RECLINE purchase back. (Valid from Thursday 15th - Sunday 25th July 2021. *T&C’s apply.) Available from Thursday 15th July.
AMAZON AUSTRALIA TO SERVE NEW ZEALANDERS
E-commerce powerhouse Amazon Australia has announced that it will expand its services to customers in New Zealand. Amazon Australia launched in 2017, and now Kiwis will be able to enjoy a faster delivery time thanks to Amazon warehouses located across the ditch. Delivery fees will start at $3.20, and Auckland and Christchurch areas will be able to opt for an expedited delivery for around $7.50. Introducing Amazon Australia's services to Kiwis will allow New Zealand businesses to a wider range of the country by listing on Amazon Australia, and obviously will allow Australian brands easier access to the New Zealand market. Western Sydney's latest robotic fulfilment centre is said to double Amazon's operational footprint and Kiwi's will be able to take advantage of this.
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GHD UNPLUGGED Chiara Ferragni, the globe trotter, digital entrepreneur and fashion icon, introduces ghd unplugged; the first compact and cordless styler by ghd, for on the go sleek styling, with no strings attached. "ghd unplugged is my best new companion. I am free to style my hair whenever I want, it means I can always have a good hair day," said Ferragni. ghd unplugged is light, portable and powerful, allowing you to touch up your style on the go, without compromising on performance. Featuring a speedy 45 second heat up time and up to 20 minutes of continuous styling, ghd unplugged delivers 65 percent more shine with no strings attached; this is the touch-up tool to transform your life. Conveniently charge at home or on the go using the USB-C charging cable, and safely slip the styler into your handbag immediately after use with the heat-resistant carry case. Containing Hybrid Co-lithium technology, featuring a combination of long-life lithium-ion batteries
with ghd advanced dual-zone technology, guarantees the optimum styling temperature of 185°C across both plates, to deliver the superior performance that ghd is renowned for, in a handbag sized tool. The ghd unplugged is the perfect tool to carry in your handbag, take to the gym and use while travelling. ghd unplugged is travel-sized, flight friendly and airport security safe, allowing you to carry the tool in both hold or hand luggage. “We are dedicated to developing pioneering technologies and creating the best-in-class products that tackle consumer and professional stylist needs. Our ghd R&D team have developed the latest battery and heat styling technology which allows us to launch unplugged, a portable cordless styler that delivers the superior performance our tools are known and trusted for, giving consumers and stylists the flexibility to style anywhere, anytime,” said Ludovic Dellazzeri, Managing Director, ghd ANZ.
NEW APPOINTMENT AT ESTÉE LAUDER The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. (ELC) has announced that Meridith Webster will join the company in the newlycreated role of Executive Vice President, Global Communications and Public Affairs, effective May 17, 2021. Webster will succeed Alexandra Trower as head of Global Communications and Maria Cristina González Noguera as head of Global Public Affairs. “Our world-class Global Communications and Public Affairs teams have consistently advanced ahead of the curve against the backdrop of an increasingly complex and rapidlychanging global landscape,” said Fabrizio Freda, President and Chief Executive Officer. “Meridith’s appointment will continue to enable and enhance our delivery of thoughtful, effective communications to our valued global stakeholders as she leads these talented teams to new heights.” “Meridith’s deep public and private sector experience, coupled with her core values and leadership style, make her
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uniquely suited to step into this role now,” said William P. Lauder, Executive Chairman. “I am so proud of the incredible work of our Global Communications and Public Affairs teams and I know they will be in great hands under Meridith’s leadership as she joins our ELC family.” In this new role, Webster will lead ELC’s global communications and public affairs strategic agendas to advance and protect its business interests and corporate reputation globally, and strengthen relationships to drive value for key stakeholders. She will serve as a strategic advisor to the ELC’s Executive Leadership Team, the Board of Directors and the Lauder Family on a variety of critical topics. Webster will oversee ELC’s Global Communications and Public Affairs teams, elevating the impact of these important functions across the business. She will lead the strategy and delivery of holistic, integrated global communications to advance ELC’s
corporate reputation and winning business narrative, while building brand equity and strengthening the platforms that resonate with key audiences internally and externally. She will also lead the global public affairs and stakeholder engagement strategy to further advance ELC’s business goals, build reputation capital and proactively mitigate issues. “I am thrilled to be joining the Estée Lauder Companies. Alex and MC each have done a terrific job leading the company’s Global Communications and Public Affairs functions and positioning these talented teams as strategic business partners,” she said. “It is an honor to step into this new role and I am excited to continue building on the successes of these teams in a rapidly-evolving space. I look forward to partnering with Fabrizio, William and the entire Executive Leadership Team to drive the overall success and continued growth of ELC.”
beauty news
GLAMHIVE AND MARY KAY ANNOUNCE NEW TIKTOK REALITY SHOW Step & Repeat is the first ever style show launching on TikTok. It is a fiveweek style competition where stylists, make up artists and hair stylists worldwide compete within the fastpaced environment of TikTok to drive their business. It is an international competition, open to all. TikTok’s community has been growing at an incredible pace, thanks to the pandemic and extended lockdowns globally. Unique talents have been
rapidly popping up on the platform and even more rapidly, these talents are obtaining valuable brand partnerships, sponsorships, and once-in-a-lifetime business opportunities. Transforming entertainment into entrepreneurship is a mindset supported and lauded both by Glamhive and Mary Kay, especially now, as the world opens up to a “new normal” with many embarking on new careers. Now is the time to seek out unique talents from established to yet-to-bediscovered stars. Both brands believe it is time to help develop their personal brand – key to the style industry and entrepreneurial success. Step & Repeat will give structure, recognition, and rewards to winners weekly. Each week, Step & Repeat’s host, Johnny Wujek will announce a themebase challenge, and TikTok users will create their best wardrobe, makeup, or hair style look for that theme. Videos will incorporate the show’s custom sound the hashtag #stepandrepeat and the hashtag that is associate with the monthly challenge. Celebrity judges Nicole Chavez, Claire Sulmers and Andrew Fitzsimons will
‘duet’ the best looks and cast their votes for winners in each category. In addition, the show will have special guests doing surprise duets, and TikTokers can duet each other to combine looks and cheer on their favourite participants. Winners of the monthly challenge will receive a cash prize and a one-hour mentoring session with one of the 19 industry leaders stepping up to provide mentorship. “Step & Repeat is going to be such a celebration of creativity and innovation,” expressed Wujek. “I can’t wait to witness all the global glamour the world has to offer.”
PACO RABANNE LAUNCHES NEW MEN’S SCENT Paco Rabanne is gearing up to build a third masculine scent pillar with Phantom, a fragrance that comes in connected packaging in the form of a robot. Metal mesh and other contemporary materials were often seen in the founding designer’s spaceage creations. The robot outer was a natural fit. This launch is expected to place Paco Rabanne firmly in the top four of prestige men’s scents globally within two years. It is currently sixth overall, second in Latin America, and fifth in Europe. Industry sources estimate Phantom could generate upward of 160 million euros in retail sales during its first 12 months. The fragrance bottle is disruptive in both form and function. Not only does it spray scent, but the top of the bottle also has a contactless communication NFC chip. Simply tap your phone on top of the robot’s head and digital content will become available, such as interactive games and filters, personalised playlists and augmented reality among other elements.
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ASIA-PACIFIC LEADS IN GLOBAL FOOTWEAR MARKET GROWTH The COVID-19 pandemic has affected the global footwear market. However, the Asia-Pacific (APAC) region accounted for 32.9 percent of the global footwear market in 2019 and is forecast to contribute nearly 40 percent of sales in 2024, backed by strong growth markets like India, the Philippines and China, stated GlobalData, a leading data and analytics company.
GlobalData’s research reveals that APAC will grow at a projected CAGR of five percent to reach a market value of US$172bn in 2024. “APAC will be the fastest growing market through 2024 owing to greater awareness and affinity for a wider variety of footwear styles especially amongst men’s shoes. Consumers will increase purchase frequency to keep up with trends, while growing disposable income in APAC nations will also help drive sales in the long run. Retailers can bank on the APAC region for continued growth and open new stores in smaller cities and towns to attract new customers,” said Rukmini Durge, Retail Analyst at GlobalData. Demand for casual footwear remained robust due to widespread stay-at-
home orders and the rise in popularity of home workout routines during lockdowns. Consumers became more accustomed to wearing casual styles and personal preferences transformed to include mostly comfortable footwear. “The trend of casualisation and rise of sports footwear is clearly demonstrated by the popularity of Bata, Nike, Li Ning and Anta Sports amongst Asian consumers. Customers purchase journey starts online where they research and compare footwear, but the final purchase tends to happen in-store after try-ons. There has been a fundamental shift in consumer preferences where the lines between channels of purchase have become blurred and retailers must navigate this requirement to be ‘everywhere’.”
ST. SANA LAUNCHES INTO 41 NEW ZEALAND STORES Popular footwear company, Sol Sana’s sister company, St. Sana has now secured 41 new independent retailers in New Zealand, in a short time span of six months. St. Sana was built on in-depth market intel from its sister brand, Sol Sana. St. Sana was created to fill a gap in the footwear market without confusing Sol Sana’s current customer base with new designs. St. Sana is made for those who are after consciously made and stylish footwear options. The brand focuses on using recycled and repurposed materials which both customers and retailers were demanding.
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foot notes
ASEAN DIGITAL WEEK
ASEAN Digital Week will connect you to the footwear and leather goods manufacturers in Vietnam and Indonesia, allowing you to gain extra exposure to the powerhouse regions of exports. By joining the event, you will automatically become a premium member of sampleroom.online, a social sourcing platform which allows you to set up your company profile, showcase your products, add your colleagues and meet buyers year round. Now 85 percent of footwear manufacturing now takes place in Asia. There is a rise in demand for raw materials, chemical products and manufacturing machines for footwear and leather goods. Moreover, Vietnam and Indonesia benefit from a financially strategic position which allows for many free trade agreements. The ASEAN Digital Week will invite industry leaders to participate in panel discussions and roundtables to talk about the latest development in footwear manufacturing and the upstream supply chain.
EXCITING NEW SPONGEBOB COLLABORATION RELEASED Vans, the original action sports brand and global advocate for creative expression, is proud to announce two upcoming collaborations with Nickelodeon’s SpongeBob SquarePants launching on July 2. The first collection is a range of Classic footwear, apparel and accessories fit for fans of all ages. The second is in partnership with New York fashion designer, Sandy Liang that features her own fashion interpretation of the animated series elements and characters. Key pieces from the Vans x SpongeBob SquarePants collection include: • Old Skool checkerboard emblazoned quarter panel featuring SpongeBob and his loyal
pet snail, Gary, hidden amongst the checks, and finished with a leather yellow Sidestripe and “Off The Wall” written in a font that is synonymous with the beloved animated series. • Imaginaaation short sleeve tee that pays homage to the season three episode that depicts SpongeBob and Patrick as they use their creativity to play with an empty box. • Airbrush Woven long sleeve tee highlighting the characters and cartoon elements of Bikini Bottom. • Best Buddies Hoodie with custom Vans “Off The Wall” graphic inspired by each character down the sleeve. • Jump Out Crew Tie Dye Tee depicts
SpongeBob leaping for joy. • Patrick Star receives his very own mini backpack silhouette that is complimented by Vans iconic checkerboard pattern. Also launching on July 2, Vans will partner with fashion designer, Sandy Liang, who has been a longtime fan of the celebrated animated series since her childhood. Sandy, who started her eponymous label of ready-to-wear clothing, jewellery and accessories inspired by her NYC upbringing, nostalgia, and humour, has partnered with Vans to deliver a capsule collection that interprets iconic elements from the television show that have been illustrated by Sandy to provide a fashion forward take on SpongeBob SquarePants.
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foot notes
LUIS ONOFRE RE-ELECTED Luis Onofre was unanimously re-elected as President for another two years of the European Footwear Confederation. This was announced during the virtual General Assembly held on 25th June 2021. Head of the luxury footwear brand Luis Onofre Shoes and President of the Portuguese Footwear, Components and Leather Goods Association (APICCAPS), Onofre’s first term was marked by an unprecedented sanitary and economic crisis. COVID-19 did not spare the European footwear industry and coordinating efforts to ensure that European government’s responses are robust and targeted enough to support the European footwear industry has been a definite priority of Onofre’s first
mandate. Such efforts also concentrated on claiming to the EU institutions for free and fair trade, and a European Industrial Strategy with instruments and complementary regulations to support the green and digital transitions of our companies, without forgetting
the regular activities to increase the attractiveness of the sector toward young generations. “These two years have been most difficult for our sector, but we need to continue looking for opportunities to innovate while investing in our people,” expressed Onofre.
(FOOTure 2020). Companies should be assisted in developing personalised image campaigns and communication plans, hiring communication agencies, participating in showrooms abroad, etc. They should also be helped to improve their internal image. APICCAPS, the Portuguese Footwear Association, has developed, over the last few years, an intense activity in supporting the internationalisation of Portuguese footwear companies, in particular in regard to the
participation in international fairs and exhibitions and, more recently, the campaign to promote the “Portuguese Shoes” image. Since the beginning of 2015, companies have benefited, through APICCAPS, from support for the promotion of their own brands, which recently also includes digital marketing campaigns. This year alone, three million euros will be invested by the Portuguese Footwear sector in the promotion of own brands.
PORTUGUESE FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY CREATES 272 NEW BRANDS
The investment in own brands is a major focus for the Portuguese footwear industry. According to data from the Industrial Property Support Office (GAPI) of the Portuguese Footwear Technological Centre, 272 new footwear brands have been created in Portugal since 2010. Of the 272 brands created in the last eleven years, the majority (203) were registered in the European Union. Commitment to own brands is a priority defined in Strategic Plan of the Portuguese Footwear Cluster
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Reach Tested
Podiatrist Approved
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fashionable reads
KAWS: WHAT PARTY
By Daniel Birnbaum and Eugenie Tsai
This comprehensive monograph on the work of KAWS, one of the most sought-after artists and creative forces of our time. KAWS’ work straddles the line between fine art and popular culture, crossing the mediums of painting and sculpture, along with fashion, merchandise, vinyl toys, and most recently, augmented reality. This book was made in close collaboration with the artist, and features his most well-known works alongside sketches, preparatory drawings and never-before-seen images of KAWS at work.
Vitamin T: Threads and Textiles in Contemporary Art
A fascinating story of two remarkable legends, Coco Chanel and Peter Marino. This book shows a stunning collection of buildings that Marino designed to elevate Chanel’s luxury retail spaces to the realm of fine art. Through his dedication to his craft and expert devotion to Coco Chanel’s vision and resolutely modern spirit, Marino has ushered Chanel into a new age, all while perfecting the elusive art of architecture and design.
Wonderland By Annie Leibovitz
Celebrating tapestry, embroidery, stitching, textiles, knitting, and knotting as used by visual artists worldwide. Leading curators, critics and art professionals have nominated 100 global living artists for inclusion in this stunning and wide-ranging survey. As boundaries between art and craft have been blurred, artists have increasingly embraced these materials and methods, with the resulting works being coveted by collectors and exhibited in museums worldwide.
A.P.C Transmission
Woman Made
Have a peek inside the fascinating story behind the cult French fashion label, A.P.C. Atelier de Production et de Création was created as a reaction to the excesses of the 1980s, and the minimalist designs of founder Jean Touitou now have a cult following. This book carries the same minimal aesthetic, yet it is packed with unreleased illustrations and ephemera.
An immersive and timely celebration of more than 200 female designers from the early 20th century to the present day. This visual celebration is impactful and flips the script on what is historically considered a man’s world. 200 designers from more than 50 countries, this book shines a spotlight on the most extraordinary projects made by female designers.
By Jean Touitou
JUNE/JULY 2021
By Peter Marino
Legendary photographer Annie Leibovitz’s surprising – and surprisedaccount of her encounters with fashion are documented in this 440page hardback coffee table book. Fashion always played a part in the scheme of everything, according to Leibovitz. Photography is so big that it can encompass journalism, portraiture, reportage, family photographs, and much more. Her work for Vogue fuelled the fire for a kind of photography that she may not have otherwise explored. The book includes 350 extraordinary images featuring iconic figures like Nicole Kidman, Serena Williams, RuPaul, Lady Gaga, Kate Moss, Karl Lagerfield and many more.
By Phaidon
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The Architecture of Chanel
By Jane Hall
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digitalconnection 13.06 30.09.2021
By the numbers THE PANDEMIC’S IMPACT ON FASHION RETAIL Key findings from the effects of COVID to future-proof retailers’ strategies. As retailers are aware, COVID dealt a crushing blow to the already unpredictable industry. The repercussions will continue to be felt even as global marketplaces reach various stages of recovery turning data into your best defense to drive sales and increase margins. 27 FASHION BANKRUPTCIES The Fashion Law publication reports 27 fashion bankruptcies since April 2020. Bankruptcies hit department stores such as Belk, JCPenney, Neiman Marcus and Lord & Taylor, as well as many high profile brands like Arcadia, Lucky, Brooks Brothers, Ascena and Tailored Brands. For an industry already struggling to lure foot traffic into stores, the pandemic was a severe blow that left fashion retailers with massive overstocks, mounting debt and an urgent need to accelerate their ecommerce strategies.
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160 PERCENT INCREASE IN ONLINE PURCHASE FREQUENCY The early days were bumpy. Many retailers had to scramble to adapt to an overnight channel shift. Stores were closed and ecommerce was exploding, driven by an Accenture estimated 160 percent increase in the frequency of digital purchases by those who rarely shopped online pre-pandemic. Retailers quickly needed to figure out how to move stock into shippable locations, ramp warehouse inventory, expedite shipping and avoid costly split shipments. They also needed to implement Buy Online Pickup In Store (BOPIS), Buy Online Return In Store (BORIS) and curbside strategies. All while furloughing staff and keeping remaining workers healthy.
38.7 PERCENT DECREASE IN DEAD STOCK We are now over a year removed and can see the progress made. In analyzing like-for-like fashion retailers and comparing April 2021 to April 2020, we learn that the inventory value associated with dead stock* is down 38.7 percent. This is due, in part, to increased demand for fashion as vaccinations roll out and consumers shed their loungewear. The US also recorded the largest ever jump in
disposable income (67 percent) in Q1. Additionally, retailers are becoming more surgical with their assortments. They have successfully reduced product counts in categories that house formal or occasionwear items that struggled last year (such as dresses and all-inones were down 13 percent and 17 percent YoY) in an attempt to limit inefficient stock liabilities. (fig. 1)
21.4 PERCENT FASTER TIME TO SHIP Beyond minimizing dead stock, fashion retailers and brands have seen their warehouse investments pay off with a 21.4 percent reduction in the average days to ship*. These are all very healthy signals for an industry that was forced to innovate its supply chain and reduce its assortment to merchandise stronger selling items.
THREE MAJOR CATEGORY SHIFTS In August 2020, McKinsey & Company reported global consumers expected more mindful shopping and a pullback on spending across key retail categories such as apparel, footwear, home furnishings, skincare and makeup. Groceries, home entertainment and household supplies were to be the beneficiaries of this shift in demand. With no weddings, parties, business
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(fig. 2)
(fig. 1)
meetings, conferences or ceremonies to attend, nimble fashion retailers and brands responded to new WFH trends and virtual engagements by contracting formalwear in favor of casualwear. Unsurprisingly, sleepwear, activewear and loungewear emerged as category saviors. We take a look at the three most impacted products as comfort became the pandemic's defining fashion trend. 1. Flats over heels Comparing April 2020 to April 2021, retailers reduced their assortment of women’s heeled shoes by 23 percent. In contrast, flat shoes saw an assortment increase of 7 percent. This was driven by the evergreen demand for sneakers and the resurgence of comfort and casual brands like Crocs and Ugg, which enjoyed strong performances despite the pandemic. (fig. 2) 2. Hoodies over blazers With workwear on hold, retailers executed a 19 percent reduction on blazers between April 2021 vs. Apr 2020. In contrast, they leaned into hoodies; a product that transcended the cash cow categories of loungewear, activewear and streetwear. The essential item saw a 32 percent YoY growth in investment. (fig. 3) 3. Sweatpants over trousers Retailers cut trousers assortment by 2 percent. To complement hoodies and cater to the Zoom dressing trend, buying and production were heavy for sweatpants, which saw a 67 percent increase. (fig. 4)
13 PERCENT RISE IN LUXURY PRICING
(fig. 4)
(fig. 3)
With fashion deemed a non-essential category, many businesses had to rethink their pricing architectures to offset losses or ensure accessibility in the new normal. Victoria Beckham plans to merge its mainline with its more affordable diffusion brand and lower its dresses' average prices by 40 percent. Forever Unique will shift away from occasionwear to focus on lifestyle products and drop its average price tag to approx $100 vs. $230. Despite this shift, true luxury is going in the other direction and becoming more exclusive - a pricing trend we've previously called out. The total advertised average price point of categories combined at luxury retailers shows a 13 percent lift compared to 2020. Price hikes for luxury items are most notable on classic, investment pieces with longevity. Jewelry, outerwear and handbags are all priced on average above 2020 and 2019, tying into the post-pandemic mindset of “buy well buy better.” This trend is set to continue as Chanel recently announced its most iconic bags would experience a price hike between 10-15 percent. (fig. 5) www.apparelmagazine.co.nz
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As stores closed and consumer demand waned, apparel retailers were left with high inventory levels. To clear stock and improve cash positions, retailers dramatically increased online discounting levels. In March 2020, the average percentage of assortments discounted reached 65 percent in the US and 54 percent in the UK. To counterbalance 2020's aggressive discounting, markdowns in March 2021 fell below 2019 percentages. This trend has continued in the US, while the UK has remained well below 2020 levels.
(fig. 5)
65 PERCENT OF RANGES WERE DISCOUNTED
(fig. 6, 7)
As COVID vaccine distribution increases and governments begin to allow more free flow, we are seeing category shifts again to embrace pre-pandemic categories. While comfort still remains at the root of trends, EDITED Retail Intelligence data indicates high heels are landing, swimwear is back and blazers are selling out at full price. We’re seeing ecommerce channel gains return to stores, especially in the UK with total fashion like-for-like sales up 39.9 percent in the week to June 27th with footfall increasing 48.1 percent. That said, the pandemic has prepared surviving fashion retailers to run online operations more efficiently, operate DTC businesses more seamlessly, manage assortment more nimbly and place more scrutiny on the types of discounts and promotions offered. Time will tell if annual ecommerce and profitability gains can be sustained, but early signals are encouraging.
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(fig. 7)
WHAT’S NEXT?
(fig. 8)
The heavy discounting witnessed at the start of the pandemic had a significant impact on the profitability of fashion retailers. The data indicates that strides have been made when comparing the like periods in 2021. Global retailers reduced the depth of weekly discounts by as much as 8 percent, which has continued to drop below both 2019 and 2020 levels. Orders using promotions* fell by over 15 percent while simultaneously improving the effectiveness of products merchandised on sites. (fig. 8) As a result, two key profit efficiency metrics, gross margin per order* and gross margin per view*, are up 26.7 percent and 40.1 percent YoY, respectively - more evidence of the industry bouncing back.
(fig. 6)
40.1 PERCENT INCREASE IN PROFIT PER VIEW EFFICIENCY
@ravenandrose
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KNITTY GR ELLE & RILEY
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This soft and sweet pink turtle neck by Elle & Riley is made of 100 percent ethical OEKOTEX certified cashmere. A classic and simple wardrobe staple, featuring a ribbed mock neck, side splits and a boxy shaped fit through the body.
Mad sup wi be com soft t
TAYLOR
STANDARD ISSUE Made in New Zealand and available in many colourways, Standard Issue are top of the food chain for locally made knitwear! They have a massive collection of knitwear and also have stunning collaborations with local designers. This yellow number is made of 100 percent merino yarn, is zero-waste and has a care for life promise.
Building stunning layered looks is at the very core of the Taylor ethos, so every style has a thoughtful purpose. The Shadow Sweater is no exception, knitted in divine a mohair baby wool blend, the luxurious longline shape is destined to fit right into any wardrobe. This versatile sweater has a stunning high round neckline, slimline sleeve and side button closures for easy day-to-day customisable options.
WYNN HAMLYN Revisiting the way we keep warm, this unisex masterpiece by Wynn Hamlyn has a detachable scarf. Designed in Auckland, Wynn Hamlyn reimagines silhouettes of knitwear.
RITTY
esstential stock
As the mornings get chillier and the nights get longer, all we want to do is curl up in some luxuriously soft knitwear. We’ve searched high and low to find our top nine knitwear pieces we think you should rock this chilly season.
ONKEY KNITS ANIELA PARYS
de in New Zealand, pport local in style ith Donkey Knit’s eautiful range of mfy knits. They’re so t, you’ll never want to take them off.
CAITLIN CRISP
Yin and Yang were called in especially for this balanced jumper by Aniela Parys. Made from a blend of mohair and alpaca, this statement piece is selling out fast!
This mellow yellow Daylight Knit is a Caitlin Crisp classic. Its oversized cosy fit with a wide rib neck and cuff detailing is the ultimate addition to your winter wardrobe.
LELA JACOBS
KOWTOW
The U Crop Crop Jersey from Lela Jacobs is made from a beautiful possum, silk and merino blend in New Zealand. This knit is fabricated in smokey grey wool and features a ribbed knit at its edge.
Ethical and wonderful Wellington-based Kowtow have a range of 100 percent organic cotton knitwear. From seed to hanger, you can enjoy these pieces for many years to come.
FLYING COLO MARA 74
RANT
A EL M ISAB
PAUL SMITH MARA 322
MARA 416
SACAI
MARA 155
Threads available from
0800 837 797 www.terr
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ashion designers across the globe are embracing colour back into their collections with open arms. Gone are the days where Autumn and Winter were victim to dark and gloomy colourways. We are pulling focus to the key colours of the rainbow that were seen colour blocking their way down the runway for forward season Autumn collections. Ardusse’s Men’s Fall 2021 designer, Gaetano Colucci, drew inspiration from his childhood memories and created a collection filled with wardrobe staples with a twist. There was an unexpected sense of softness to this collection through 1940s inspired pinstriped suits, pastel cable knits and more notably this khaki green utility-inspired set. Boxy
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and cropped in fit and lined with a cosy off-white Sherpa, this look showcases the popular yet timeless khaki hue in all its glory, easily matched with the Mara 283 thread. The oversized pockets on the side of the trousers and jacket and the shiny black combat boots makes the look structured and edgy. However, this utility-inspired look is softened with the low scoop chunky knitted vest that its cleverly paired with. On the Berluti Men’s Fall 2021 runway this year we saw a colourful line up like no other. This striking blue coat in a shade like the Mara 5396 thread, will make heads turn. Its bright and vibrant hue gives off a sense of calmness and serenity, whilst also being fun and filled with personality. Pair it with some timeless
trousers and a statement bucket hat to stay warm without sacrificing style. As brands embrace the fashion of comfort suiting, designer Avizmo Jo decided to go the other direction by showcasing elegant suits that are still carefree, but effortlessly dressed up for parties and events that are slowly crawling back into the day-to-day norm. This oversized wool coat, in a red hue similar to the Mara 82 thread, shows off a large collar and dropped shoulder. Hitting just below the knee, its hard to not overlook the intricate knitted multicoloured flag-like piece at the front and back of this coat. This aspect of the coat is definitely unique and adds a large amount of visual interest and texture to an otherwise simple coat option.
on trend
OURS BERLUTI
MARA 5396
HILL
DUN
MARA 283
ARDUSSE
DE CAFFEIN E
MARA 82
ryapparel.co.nz British luxury brand, Dunhill, presents its Fall 2021 collection ‘Compendium’ to reflect a dramatic change in our lives. Designer Mark Weston designs with a sense of ‘Britishness’ in his style. He mixes relaxation and playfulness with traditional and timeless design – reflecting the fashion evolution in places like London. This playful look mixes different textures and colours together, from a caramel oversized puffy scarf to shiny sage green vinyl pants. This violet puffer in a colour similar to the Mara 74 thread is the perfect jacket to throw on to keep warm. It’s practical for cooler months, while giving the wearer an instant mood boost due to its bright and uplifting colourway. We see a sporty collection from Isabel Marant this Fall. The label presented a
collection filled with reworked classics like rugby shirts and varsity jackets. In this rich indigo look we see a relaxed blue cardigan, a lined light-washed denim jacket and vibrant wide-fit trackpants similar to the side snap track pants we see on professional basketball players today. For a seamless finish, the Mara 322 thread is perfect for this bright blue hue. On the Paul Smith runway this season we saw this casual yet fun yellow ensemble. In a shade similar to the Mara 416 thread, the relaxed button up t-shirt dons a crisp green floral pattern. Layered over a classic black turtleneck and under a boxy leather jacket, the button-up shirt is where we’re focussing our attention. The designer complements the warm yellow tones from the shirt with a pair
of mustard trousers and sleek loafers; a fool-proof evening look. Sacai’s designer, Chitose Abe, looked to the transition from punk to hip-hop for inspiration for her latest Men’s collection. This collection has an obvious streetwear flair to it, mixing two cultural elements together. This particular look is dominated by its loud orange colour palette, ideally paired with the Mara 155 thread, and its interesting cuts. The jacket is pieced together with a water resistant dark green fabric on the shoulders while the rest of the jacket features the blinding orange hue in a highly structured look. Partnered with straight cut trousers that cut off just above the ankles, it finishes off this daring two-piece look perfectly. www.apparelmagazine.co.nz
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DONKEY KNITS Donkey Knits emerged from Level 4 lockdown last year and since, designer and owner Marimar Lumiwes, has found a loyal following of 1.8 followers on Instagram and her first retail stockist in Hamilton. Originally from the Phillippines, Lumiwes moved to Hamilton, New Zealand when she was eight and has recently moved to Auckland. She began knitting in the first lockdown last year but also unknowingly started her brand sometime in July. “At the time I had no intentions of starting a knitwear brand, or anything at all, other than occasionally selling one-off items to make some sort of side
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income,” expressed Lumiwes. Lockdown inspired her to get creative. When she came across Hope Macaulay’s knitwear online, she realised that knitwear can be modern, fun and chic. With no fashion background, Lumiwes is naturally creative. Constantly drawn to art and anything creative, she always had a keen eye for fashion. “My whole brand happened coincidentally, or accidentally, or maybe both.” Outstandingly, Donkey Knits is a onewoman brand, Lumiwes designs and knits all her pieces by herself. She has only recently been stocked at Found Store in Hamilton. Her pieces can now be
purchased in person at Found Store, or online on Only Limited, her own website and her brand’s Instagram account. “I take a lot of inspiration from online in terms of the different styles of knitwear, but I love colours so much and I love experimenting and trying different colour combinations.” Donkey Knit’s current collection takes traditional silhouettes of knitwear designs and infusing it with funky and bright colour combinations. Each piece is fun yet equally wearable. For wholesale enquiries, email Lumiwes at donkey.knits@gmail.com or visit www.donkeyknits.com for more information.
emerging designer
FASHION NŌLA CANDLES
Pulling focus to its Bouquet Collection, Nola Candles has created a candle, reed diffuser, and room spray. With ten scent options, there is a great range of diversity of premium quality products. Its affordable luxurious pieces that have a unique scent that intrigues and relaxes. Based in Wairarapa, Nola Candles put a strong emphasis on being ecofriendly, charitable, and community-focused. “We off-set our carbon emission and aim to be as low-waste as possible in our workshop. We donate 10 percent of our profits to kiwi charities, currently The Neonatal Trust (a charity that means a lot to our young family) and have collaborated with local businesses in hopes of supporting and empowering others to succeed.” For more information, please visit www.nolacandles.co.
MASTER & JACK
Auckland-based Master & Jack create decor candles that are made from a 100 percent natural vegetable wax blend, with no paraffins or stabilisers. Available in a range of various shapes and sizes, the Sophie Decor Candle boasts its bold shape and calls to be lit and enjoyed on a tray. Every candle is crafted inhouse with natural cotton wicks that are zinc and lead free. Master & Jack strive to be as eco friendly and sustainable as possible. For more information, please visit www.masterandjack.co.nz.
scents
beauty spot
SOLARA CANDLE CO.
Australian artisan candle studio, Solara Candle Co, is passionate about all things fine, luxurious and beautiful. The team are equally passionate about the environment and believe that luxury does not have to come at the expense of sustainability. Located in Sydney, the artisan studio uses vegan soy wax that is renewable and sustainable. The four variations of The Goddess Candle in the collection are; Flora, Gaia, Luna, and Aphrodite. It is a unique, sophisticated and exclusive line. For more information, please visit www.solaracandleco.com.au. Image by www.ajenksimagery.com.au
LOVE, MADDY
Crafted in small batches in their home studio in Tomarata, Wellsford, the Hidden Magick Crystal Candle by Love, Maddy has a crystal hidden inside. Topped with a beeswax wrap inplace of a lid, this candle is available in eight scents with more fragrances on the way. The vessels can also be repurposed or returned and refilled. All of Love, Maddy’s creations are made of the highest quality and featuring natural crystals – no two products are ever the same. For more information, please visit www.lovemaddy.nz. www.apparelmagazine.co.nz
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HARRIS H TAPPER
arris Tapper began in 2017 when co-founders Sarah Harris Gould and Lauren Tapper saw a gap in the market for high-quality shirting at an accessible price point – the cornerstone for working women. The brand quickly grew to offer entire collections four times a year due to consumer and retailer demand. “Our intention is to champion women in their independence. Designing clothes that serve women and their multi-faceted lives has always been at the heart of what we do.” Their AW21 collection, Concurrence, is about the meeting of two ideas. It explores the contrast between natural form and linear detailing. “We were inspired by Anne Brigman and her photographic exploration of the
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Left - Lauren Tapper, right - Sarah Harris
in detail
female form, as well as the linear design and natural irregularity of George Nakashima's architecture. As women's personal and professional lives become more intertwined, the enduring essence of Harris Tapper is to create pieces that blur the traditional boundaries between work and occasion-wear. “Our collections are designed to be worn all day, no matter what is thrown at you.” Each collection is designed to build upon the previous, allowing women to create an enduring wardrobe that transcends traditional notions of seasonal dressing. With that being said, Harris Tapper likes to explore different fabrications and finishes each season. The AW21 standouts being stiff 900gsm wool contrasted against fluid satins and a
Our intention is to champion women in their independence. Designing clothes that serve women and their multi-faceted lives has always been at the heart of what we do.
striking ivory silk/wool blend with black stitching. Each season, the brand offers a core range that comprises their best-selling trouser, shirt, and blazer shapes. “We see this as the foundation to many working women's wardrobes." COVID-19 didn't necessarily see the brand 'pivot' but instead gave the two space to reflect and clarify their long term goals for the brand. “We re-focused our attention to our loyal Australasian market and learnt to be more nimble and flexible. We feel fortunate that we have been able to grow within a very difficult time.” For wholesale enquiries in New Zealand, email Carla at carla@harristapper.com. For international wholesale enquiries, email Paris at paris@delrainbow.com.
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STANDARD ISSUE
in detail
Founded in New Zealand in the 1980s, Standard Issue’s passion for producing the very best, timeless and enduring knitwear remains unchanged today. One hundred percent of their AW21 collection is crafted with care in their Auckland workroom where sustainable design is at the heart of everything the brand does. From functional seamless knits to distinctive textured structures, each part of the Standard Issue brand DNA continues to inspire new designs and shape stories. In the design and production of each garment the brand considers environmental impact, aesthetic, functionality, and longevity as equally imperative.
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he AW21 collection is inspired by the unmatchable diversity of self-expression of the 80s. Celebrating the simplicity and versatility of a single running thread, AW21 welcomes a new season of knitwear comforts, designed, and crafted in their Auckland home with care and dedication. Textural elements paired with base merino layers, both grounded in the stories of their make and quality of natural fibre. Inspired by the adventure of the every day, a palette of bright, sunny shades offers a playground of experimental colour for those who love to outwardly express the energy that the new season delivers. Grounding the collection is Standard Issue’s core range of neutrals - Alabaster, Cashew and Soft Grey - each creating space for layering and lightness. The collection welcomes the quiet delight of simple, considered and soft knitwear. Beautiful knits made with a story, for you to celebrate moments of life in. “It’s made to be yours, forever,” expressed Emma Ensor, General Manager
at Standard Issue. There are 92 unique pieces in this collection, and it is a natural extension of the brand’s previous collections. “We pride ourselves in offering classic utility pieces that last for many seasons.” Standard Issue offers refreshed colours for the season and are always basing new styles off those they have had in the collection before. This ensures a seamlessness that is easily integrated into the considered wardrobe. Each beautiful knit promises to endure beyond the trends of today. The brand works with 100 percent natural fibres such as Merino, Cotton, Cashmere, and Linen. “It is imperative to us that our yarns are kind to the earth and boast a quality that will endure.” Standard Issue has 100 percent direct contact with their offshore yarn spinners and only partners with those who meet the brand’s sustainability requirements whilst also working towards the same methods of waste reduction and care for the land. Over 40 percent of Standard Issue’s
AW21 collection is made up of repeat styles that their customers know and love for their timelessness nature of design, fit and make. “We are proud of our core utility offering which speaks to the enduring nature of our designs.” During the COVID-19 lockdowns, Standard Issue was able to create zerowaste face masks with their industrial knitting machines – working from an initial programme to suit their compact spun cotton and to offer a superior fit. Aside from facemasks, Standard Issue stayed true to their brand values; continuing to support local craftspeople whilst focusing on maintaining a zerowaste output that works with the land. “The pandemic was an opportunity for us to deepen these values, and test out different ways that they could translate into new initiatives for us as a business.” Standard Issue hopes to partner with retailers that appreciate offering locally made, quality garments. For wholesale enquiries, email info@standardissue.co.nz, or visit www.standardissue.co.nz.
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ARE DEPARTMENT STORES DEAD? With sales increasing 203 percent from April 2020 to 2021, here’s four reasons why they have a bright future.
Despite department store sales down $114 billion in 2020, Wall Street is enthusiastic about the future, with stocks for Macy's, Kohl's and Nordstrom up by 53 percent, 45 percent and 21 percent, respectively. 1. RETAILERS ARE CAPITALISING ON POP-UPS & EXPANSION
According to PopUp Republic, the pop-up retail industry has grown an estimated $10 billion in US sales. Both brands and department stores benefit from the collaboration, leveraging each other's mailing lists and marketing strategies while maximizing real estate. These partnerships also allow a more agile retail landscape, where it's less about competition and more about working together to create experiential retail opportunities. Department stores are also expanding in various ways to compete with discount clothing chains and competitive industries such as beauty and home. Macy's rolled out several new Macy's Backstage locations, while Kohl's extended its consumer reach and product offering by teaming up with Sephora. See below for a breakout of
recent developments. Expansion & reopenings ◆ Sephora mini-shops will debut in 200 Kohl's locations by fall 2021. This partnership allows Sephora to reach customers outside of malls, while the department store can draw in younger customers with higher-end beauty products. ◆ Macy's is expanding its Backstage business with 45 new locations across ten states, as executives announce it is critical to business growth. The Herald Square flagship location is under construction to upgrade subway access and build a commercial office tower above the store to enhance the store experience and neighborhood. ◆ To reach a broader range of customers, John Lewis will expand its online offering of menswear, womenswear and childrenswear over the next 12 months with more than 100 fashion brands. ◆ Despite the Robinsons physical store closing in Singapore in January, Robinsons Online will launch on June 24th as a digital department store with over 200 brands and future collaborations teased.
◆ Belk launched an in-store luxury sunglass concept, Sunnies at Belk, more than doubling the assortment and adding luxury brand options. Activewear market ◆ In March 2021, fitness app Tonal partnered with Nordstrom, bringing the home gym and personal training experience to more customers. The concept space exists in the Women's Active department in 40 Nordstrom locations across 20 states. ◆ Selfridges reopened its stores in London, Manchester and Birmingham in April 2021 and teamed up with SoulCycle to bring "Outside Studio" to customers Luxury brand pop-ups ◆ Neiman Marcus is the exclusive US wholesaler to feature the Prada Outdoor pop-up shop featuring the "Coast" collection - a multidimensional and multisensory experience, running from June 8th 27th. ◆ Premium fashion label Cuyana created a portable showroom called Cuyana in Motion to try out new locations without the long-term lease commitment. ◆ At Selfridges London this summer, Dior will launch a pop-up boutique Dioriviera and will take over the department store's rooftop restaurant. 2. FINANCIALS PROVE POSITIVE GROWTH
According to Mastercard SpendingPlus, department store sales increased by 202.7 percent from April 2020 to 2021 and 9.6 percent compared to 2019, emphasizing consumer interest to shop again in these locations. Macy's and Kohl's announced a
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edited decrease in net sales for Q4 YoY, down 17 percent and 10 percent, respectively. However, for the first quarter ending May 1st, 2021, these department stores declared a significant spike YoY, up 62.5 percent at Macy's and up 69 percent at Kohl's - highlighting consumer habits online and in-store with both digital and store sales increasing. Forward-looking initiatives from Nordstrom's Q1 earnings press release include broadening the reach of Nordstrom Rack, increasing digital velocity and winning in essential markets. A press release from Kohl's included growing activewear, beauty and homeware and investing in omnichannel capabilities - all of which have helped increase sales to-date. (fig.1)
experiences at its nursery department, as well as interactive spaces for children to play and parents to relax. Dick's Sporting Goods is fusing technology with athletics in the grand opening of its two House of Sport locations. These interactive concepts include batting cages with HitTrax™ technology and golf driving bays with TrackMan™ simulators. Target is remodeling its stores to give improved lighting in the beauty department and in-store branded shops from tech partner Apple.
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in sales in 2020. Who's doing it? Bloomingdales has hosted over 50 shoppable events while stores were shuttered during the pandemic. Nordstrom launched its live-streamed shopping channel back in March and is forging on to become a digitalfirst business. Future events include a happy hour-themed trend event and an interview with makeup guru Charlotte Tilbury. Walmart is investing heavily in livestream shopping via TikTok creators in an effort to win over a younger audience. The retailer's first event on the platform garnered seven times more views than anticipated and increased its followers by 25 percent, according to its CMO.
3. TECH & INNOVATION ENHANCE EXPERIENCES
Livestream shopping Consumers are no longer content with the traditional browse, click and pay experience. While online shopping continues to grow, quarter-on-quarter results are beginning to taper off. The US livestreaming market is expected to reach $25 bn by 2023. However, there is still a way to go to catch China, which is guessed to have driven nearly $125 bn
Mobile app exclusives With mobile shopping on the rise, app development holds significant opportunities for department stores
(fig. 1)
QR codes Oftentimes, a large format store can feel overwhelming if a return or exchange is needed. Department stores should note that consumers are likely shopping with their mobile phones and a QR code may be the quickest way to assist. This handy technology also allows for an increased opportunity to cross-sell products and track purchasing behavior. Who's doing it? Supermarket retailer ASDA offers a clothing recycling program where customers can sign up to receive a QR code and drop off their items at a nearby location for a 10 percent voucher. Kohl's offers Kohl's Pay, helping toward a more seamless checkout experience with personal offers and Kohl's Cash loaded into one QR code. Bloomingdale's and Bergdorf Goodman include QR codes in both catalogs and mail in order to drive
(fig. 2)
traffic to their products. (fig.2) Experiential retailing While pop-ups are a fantastic way to draw consumers into your store, experiential retail can also take the form of digital innovation. Partnerships with tech-led companies allow retailers to provide something to their customers that cannot be obtained at home. This also drives foot traffic to your store, presenting additional opportunities for a sale. Who's doing it? John Lewis is offering consultative www.apparelmagazine.co.nz
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edited
4. KEY CALENDAR EVENTS ARE STILL AHEAD
Back-to-School As summer begins, retailers are already preparing for a robust backto-school season ahead. According to CNBC, spending in the US is expected to surpass pre-pandemic levels. MasterCard SpendingPulse forecasted sales from mid-July to early September to rise 5.5 percent YoY and 6.7 percent vs. 2019. Department stores will reap the benefits, with a 25 percent YoY increase expected as shoppers return to malls. Motivation stems from the desire for a fresh start and a highly anticipated sale season. Hone in on July, August and September for optimal messaging. This period also serves as an opportunity for back-to-work promotions as well to capture full-family shopping potential. Licensing will be another huge win, with
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the chance to sell college and university merchandise ahead of the start of the season. (fig.3)
Black Friday The spending holiday is expected to look much different this year compared to last. Names like Target and Walmart are already herding the bulk of presale traffic online, which will benefit their ecommerce sales. However, while several stores will remain shuttered on Thanksgiving, enticing deals and the return of more comfortable in-
store shopping will bode well for department store retailers. According to a RetailMeNot survey, 20 percent of consumers began their holiday shopping in September and 15 percent in November. Start offers promptly in order to catch early shoppers. (fig.4) The New Year The beginning of a fresh year brings key moments to push activewear lines, which were already a big investment category over the past year. The rise of smart fitness led to consumers purchasing in-home technology to stay healthy, such as Peloton bikes, Lululemon's MIRROR and Tonal's Home Gym. As COVID restrictions lift, many consumers will be looking to return to boutique fitness studios and gyms, prompting a soar in workout gear. Highlight these opportunities in email features and social posts as motivation for an active year.
(fig. 3)
amid the market's competition with e-tailers like Amazon. A seamless mobile shopping experience is expected and now attention has turned to inapp features that can set a retailer apart. Sales and discount incentives are a great way to get the consumer to engage with a mobile app initially. Who's doing it? Macy's ran an exclusive 50 percent off beauty products exclusively through their app on May 8th. On May 25th, JD Williams offered 30 percent off all fashion, footwear and lingerie from 6pm to midnight only on its mobile app. Nordstrom Rack offers a $5 off $50 promotion for first-time app downloaders. JCPenney offers rewards and coupons delivered straight to customers via its mobile app.
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- Complete Sampling Service Pattermaking - Computerised Digitising & Grading - Computerised Marker Making - Sample cutting with Fabric Estimates - Sample Making - Production Runs - Production Cutting Call the team (09) 369 9249 / 021425149 or email helenh@hsr.co.nz / oliviah@hsr.co.nz 21D PORANA RD, WAIRAU VALLEY
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