Apparel Magazine | June/July 2023

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99 Problems and Retail Staff is Definitely One

Recently, my weekend shopping experience led me on a journey through various retail stores, ranging from boutique to chains to department stores. Sadly, what I encountered was a disheartening pattern of disappointing customer service, regardless of the price range.

I walked into a department store and was gobsmacked that there were no staff. Walking around to the jeans section, I am astonished to find not one but three staff all chatting behind a counter. All ignoring about four to seven customers actively looking for something specific. Customers drift off after ten or so minutes, but I am still yanking out jeans in an attempt to find a size larger than an 8. Another customer walks past me and I say: “It’s really hard to tell which jeans are which without the old school pictures on the wall.” To which she replies: “I just don’t know what size I am in these numbers.” A retail worker miraculously jumps into action and asks her what her size is. Good I think, help for the customer, then states that she doesn’t know any of the size conversions and will have to go and find someone who does. I jump in and tell the retail assistant what size the customer is, amazed that she and the other staff – who are placed to work

in the jeans section – do not know any of the sizing. When the assistant came back with the jeans for the customer, she took me to one side and asked me if I could help her with the sizing for another customer.

The issues I experienced from various stores run deeper than just lacklustre service; it extends to the neglect of diverse customer needs, particularly those over a size 10 and above the age of 40.

The essence of exceptional customer service lies in understanding and catering to the varied preferences of your customer profile. Regrettably, it seems that this notion has been neglected by many retail establishments. From boutiques to high-end department stores, the passion for fashion and the desire to create unforgettable shopping experiences have faded away, replaced by distracted and disinterested staff.

Fashion is an art of inclusivity, where every individual should feel celebrated, regardless of their age or body type. It is time for retail buyers and store owners to reflect upon the importance of diversity and inclusivity in their offerings. The magic of personal shopping assistance must be revived, where every customer feels seen,

heard, and valued. To quote my mother over the last two decades: “Nothing in here screams buy me.” And I feel like this only happens when you not only have a great product offering that is well curated, but also the magic of customer service. That nonjudgemental helpful hand that is just genuinely happy to help.

To bridge this gap, retail buyers must actively engage with their customers, understanding their preferences and challenges. Embracing diversity within their buying teams will enable a more comprehensive curation that cater to various age groups and body types. Fashion designers and brands, too, have a role to play by expanding size ranges, and creating clothing that is not only functional but fills a gap in the market. I don’t remember the last time I saw a 20-something spend over $400 in a store, but I do remember seeing countless 40+ year-olds spending over $1,000 without a second thought. Know your client, know who will spend, know what to put in front of them.

Retailers need to find and train knowledgeable passionate staff. Ongoing training is vital, making sure your team understand the customer profile of who shops with you. Ask customers, ask staff, what do they see that the store needs to change. Rediscover the art of exceptional customer service and become ambassadors of style, knowledge, and enthusiasm. Your team must recognise that fashion is more than just garments; it is a transformative moment to feel amazing, confident and dare I say it –beautiful.

It is up to us – retailers, buyers, brands – to take the lead and create a customer experience that is not just a transactional exchange but a warm embrace of creativity, style, and joy.

editor's note
ISSN 1171-2287 (Print) ISSN 2744-5976 (Online) PUBLISHER ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR CONTENT MANAGER GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM Tania Walters Kieran Mitchell Sarah Mitchell Caitlan Mitchell Caroline Boe Raymund Sarmiento Raymund Santos behind APPAREL... Retail 6, 2 Ruskin Street, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 304 0142 Email: edit@reviewmags.com This magazine is published monthly under license. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to Review Publishing Co Ltd. This magazine is a platform for the industry and may include content that expresses views and opinions by contributing writers. Content is attributed to the author, and these opinions and the view/s are those of the author/s. They do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of any other agency, organisation, employer or company. The opinions and material published in this edition are not necessarily those of the publishers unless expressly stated. All material appearing in the magazine, website and social media platforms is copyright and may only be reproduced with the written consent of the publisher. Copyright 2023 2
From the raw material to the finished textile – we set standards and support brands, retailers and manufacturers in achieving their environmental, social responsibility and quality goals: testex.com
Sustainability is not a trend, it is a way of life.

NISA IS CLOSING ITS DOORS

After five years of making clothing and careers, the Nisa workshop is officially closing its doors in July.

Founder and CEO Elisha Watson put Nisa on the market at the start of the year, but negotiations fell through.

“We have tried every trick in the book to keep our social enterprise going, but we’ve got to the point where we’re not in a financial position to continue operating without a buyer to inject capital,” Watson says. The underwear, activewear and swimwear label was founded in 2017 to provide women from refugee and migrant backgrounds in Wellington with their first job in Aotearoa, New Zealand.

Nisa’s goal was never to provide a job for life but rather to provide a launchpad for careers in New Zealand, Watson said.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

BIALETTI X DOLCE & GABBANA'S LUXURY COFFEE

Bialetti has collaborated with Dolce & Gabbana to create a luxury coffee, a piece of Dolce & Gabbana designer in the form of a cup of coffee. This limited line is quintessential 'la dolce vita' with a rewrite of the famous Moka Express.

Bialetti Moka is the Italian hero of stovetop coffee, as it transformed the art of coffee making by infusing the ritualistic café culture into at-home coffee in 1933. Ninety years later, the pot is still recognised as one of ten Italian inventions that changed the world.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

DICKIES AND JAMESON WHISKEY UNITE

Jameson Irish Whiskey and renowned fashion label, Dickies, have introduced Crafted Together, an exciting collaboration that pays tribute to the rich heritage of workwear fashion and the ethos that unites the two braWnds together. Dropping online in New Zealand and Australia on Thursday, the 6th of July, the exclusive collection aims to foster a sense of mateship among contemporary craftsmen worldwide, uniting their communities through a thoughtfully designed collection.

The multi-piece capsule will include signature pieces such as a timeless Dickies Eisenhower Jacket and overalls, beanies, caps and more, perfect for collectors and whiskey fans.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

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EXPO RIVA SCHUH & GARDABAGS PROMOTES ECOFRIENDLY MOBILITY

The Expo Riva Schuh & Gardabags fair is back this year to renew its commitment to sustainability. Their work towards fulfilling the mission of an increasingly sustainable trade fair is seen through their concrete actions to foster fruitful business encounters that respect people and the environment.

Organised by Riva del Garda Fiere Congressi SpA, the fair features companies from 41 countries and visitors from all over the world and is one of the most important international fairs dedicated to the volume production of footwear, bags and fashion accessories.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

MIDDLEMORE FOUNDATION X STANDARD ISSUE'S JUMPER FOR A JUMPER

Last year, one in ten Kiwi kids faced a harsh winter without basic essentials, including warm clothing. Middlemore Foundation and Standard Issue are on a mission to warm up winter for the most vulnerable tamariki. They have donated over 2,000 jumpers, but the mahi still needs to be done. Their goal this year is to get up to 3,000 jumpers donated.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

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MINUTES WITH

Lewi Brown's interest in streetwear began at a very young age as he grew up skateboarding and playing basketball in Belfast, Christchurch. The purchase of his first Michael Jordan singlet as a kid from Champions of the World and his ever-growing interest in fashion trends made Earls Collection a perfect extension of himself after he retired from professional rugby.

Being a self-taught designer, Brown realised that in men's fashion, sticking to core silhouettes and adding subtle touches evolves the pieces of clothing into finer garments. With Earls Collection, he wishes to provide premium clothing at not-so-premium prices as he knows the hardships of coming from a humble background and being raised by a single mother.

Brown loves that the new generation does not have a specific style. Instead, they have made fashion all about experimentation and a form of selfexpression. He also likes that the world is heading towards a more sustainable future in fashion.

He acknowledges that his biggest inspiration and biggest supporter is his mother, but he also likes how Dwight Yorke and Lenny Kravitz have pushed boundaries. He also resonates with Pharrell Williams and Kanye West, who have gone on to do multiple things and explored different paths.

Regarding expansion, the Earls Collection wants to refine its wholesale programme and collaborate with other people and companies with a similar vibe. Although their online store and social media, especially Instagram, work wonders for the brand with its polished look, Brown's biggest goal would be to have a retail store someday in Australia and New Zealand.

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BOSTON AND FOREST

Hannah Wills has always had fond memories of wanting to sew. Around the age of four, she had her own toy sewing machine, from which she first learned to create garments.

“My grandmother and her sister, who was a dressmaker, were so amazed that I had cut the shapes and put them together without having any help at such a young age,” Wills explained.

Wills grew up in Dunedin, and after finishing high school, she decided to study design, pattern drafting and commercial sewing at the New Zealand Institute of Fashion and Technology. From there, she found herself working for a few designers and gaining key

hands-on experience in the field. She then worked for herself as a dressmaker before taking on the rest of the world.

Moving abroad led her to enter a sales and marketing role within Australia. However, over a decade later, she decided to retire from her marketing career and get back to her true passion for design.

During the Covid-19 lockdown, Wills became pregnant, and at the time, she struggled to find any locally-made baby items online. Because of this,

she decided to launch her very own business selling natural, sustainable and adorable baby products.

“Out of pure frustration of being unable to find New Zealand-made items from natural fibres, Boston and Forest was launched,” She said.

Boston and Forest is a onewoman brand, as Wills takes care of everything from outsourcing, designing, advertising and all the inbetween.

The brand offers a wide range of minimal yet stylish home accessories, from her best-selling tissue box covers and door stops to family wheat bags, along with baby clothes and accessories, nursery decor and even something for the mums like scrunchies and eye pillows.

“Everything is designed with longevity in mind, with our burp cloths doubling as hand towels meaning they can live on longer than the few months a burp cloth is needed for.”

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What makes her brand unique is the neutral-toned pallets used. Wills believes kids do better in calm spaces, so creating toned-down pieces that blend into everyday life is one of her key focuses. At the same time, she only uses natural fibres to ensure safety and sustainability.

Quality over quantity is one of her brand's key values while also ensuring everyone involved in the creation process is happy, paid fairly and treated well.

Her goals for the future is to be stocked in many stores across New Zealand and abroad, along with opening her very own flagship store one day. Wills has also been lucky to have such incredible mentors along her journey. Because of this, she hopes to give back to the fashion industry by opening a mentoring workspace for new designers and creators to operate out of, providing support and training to nurture their talent.

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Out of pure frustration of being unable to find New Zealand-made items from natural fibres, Boston and Forest was launched.

GEORGE PARK

George Park graduated top of the class back in 2022 at Otago Polytechnic with a Bachelor of Design. He now hopes to eventually return to study within the next couple of years to work up to a master's degree.

“Iwant to get into teaching at tertiary level, but that’s at the very least ten years away after I’ve been around the industry for a second,” Park explained.

Park's journey into fashion was through the drive for both self-expression and escapism.

“Everything you wear says something about you, even down to the depth of your pant hems, so I love communicating thoughts through clothing,” he said.

He also now has a healthy history of experience behind him. From interning with Jane Avery at Lapin NZ, who taught him everything there is to know about fur construction and the importance of integrity. To also interning with NOM*d, initially creating small-scale social media content, which led to directing a campaign for their winter collection earlier this year.

He is currently interning with Rhiannon Daly of Pigsuit, who he says is a powerhouse of design and a beautiful soul. Park mentioned that he won’t spill any secrets about what they are up to but let it be known that it is super sexy.

Parks' design style is an extreme emphasis on visibility, and the story behind his own collection of garments is about a metamorphic creature, indicative of the notion of queerness, alienation and self-preservation.

His inspiration stems from actions that are intrinsic and reactionary. Essentially to do with how humans interact, social dynamics, hierarchies, power structures, balance and imbalance, to name a few.

He likes to look at how humans - like animals, aim to protect themselves. Reflective surfaces and repetitive patterns are used to revolve around modern ideas of camouflage.

One of the most valuable things Park has learned during his time at university was to support those around you regardless of their support in return. Lift up the people in your circle, he said. Connecting and understanding other people's mindsets is essential to him, and he believes that the fashion industry is home to some of the most interesting minds.

Currently Park is working on some garments for his brand, Nature of Mercury, to coincide with an exhibition hosted by a dear friend in Wellington in a few weeks time. One day he hopes to open his own boutique. However, at this point, he is mainly focused on commission-based work before making any giant leaps.

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12 fit out

SEJAL BLACKLER MUROS

The world of chartered accounting is vastly different from that of interior design.

Sejal Blackler immigrated to New Zealand in the early 1970s as a Ugandan refugee. Raised in Auckland, Blackler soon moved to London to begin a career as a Chartered Accountant in the London banking sector. Upon a return to New Zealand, Blacker moved into corporate finance until starting up Muros.

Muros is a supplier of decorative European wall panels to the Australasian market, authentically replicating the look and texture of concrete, brick, stone, and wood. This brings a natural depth and dimension to interior walls, which Blackler said assists with bringing clients’ visions to life.

Blackler’s path to into the interior sector was a circumstance of chance. After a meeting with a businessman on a plane, who introduced her to the wall panel concept, Blackler was convinced that she and her husband had the resources to help launch it on the local market.

With the financial, marketing and operational skills under her belt and the global financial crisis of 2008 looming, Blackler joined Muros and has been there for the past 15 years. Throughout her time at Muros, she has become passionate about interior fitout design and her work.

“Selling a product like ours is a pleasure when you are confident in its ability to satisfy your customers with any look they desire,” said Blackler.

The client mainly indicates the design element for Muros and what their vision and brief are. The team at Muros gain an understanding of a project through discussion and renders, matching the best product design colour with the look they are after.

The lightweight fibre-glass-based decorative panels are handmade in Europe and set Muros’ designs apart. The privately-owned company has built a solid reputation over the past 30 years at the end of faux or veneer panels. The look and feel of natural concrete, brick, stone, and wood are achieved

by a clever manufacturing process and moulds/reliefs lifted from real-life walls.

Part of the success of Muros is that there are endless possibilities for its clients’ designs. Blackler said that there is one specific area that Muros targets. Instead, there is a wide range of potential clients from different industries, from a restaurant, high street shop, or pop-up store to a long-standing building, workplace or reception area.

The day-to-day job for Blackler is varied and never the same any second day, but with a priority first and foremost on customers. When she’s not meeting with clients, she looks ahead at managing and marketing the business to its optimal potential, keeping up to date with emerging designs and trends.

Communication is something that Blackler relies on, citing it as the most critical contributor to the success of a fitout.

“There are often many stakeholders and views, changing briefs, financial or brand constraints, tight deadlines, supply chain and moving timeframes that make regular communication necessary to ensure there are no surprises and the fit-out is on point, on time and on budget.”

Blackler said that retail and hospitality are the most current and progressive industries she works with, but ensuring clients satisfy ever-changing requirements can be a constant challenge. She added that the company likes to use the wall panels in new and unconventional ways, using them on ceilings, countertops, and columns as well.

“You can see the ‘wow’ factor’. The best result is when the customer wouldn’t have picked the Muros to finish as anything but the real thing. They are an affordable solution without the labour, mess and consent process associated with authentic materials, and can be easily updated with a fresh aesthetic over time.”

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0800 837 797 www.terryapparel.co.nz
available from MARA 7-718 MARA 8-3904 MARA 7-716 MARA 6-663 MARA 7-247 RVDK RONALD VAN DER KEMP on trend 14
Threads

olours hold the power to captivate, inspire, and set trends. One hue has taken centre stage and ignited a sweeping trend: pink. This vibrant shade has seized the collective imagination of designers across the globe, with its resurgence coinciding with the highly anticipated Barbie movie featuring Margot Robbie. As the film's release approaches, pink reclaims its status as the ultimate style statement, celebrated for its versatility, emotional resonance, and ability to challenge societal norms.

As the Barbie movie's premiere approaches, it serves as a reminder of pink's indomitable spirit. Margot Robbie's portrayal of Barbie will undoubtedly bring the character to life, further fueling the pink movement. Audiences eagerly anticipate a visual spectacle celebrating the power of pink and the limitless potential within each of us.

Fashion designers worldwide embrace pink's magnetic pull, incorporating it into their collections to redefine traditional silhouettes and challenge norms. The reign of pink is here, leaving an indelible mark on our fashion and cultural landscape.

Filled with highly saturated satins and other textured fabrics, Ayissi said he sought to prioritise natural materials like silk and linen and sustainable bamboo viscose, Kenté and dyed bazin fabric, a type of damask. This Fall 2023 couture collection from Imane Ayissi has more than a sprinkle of pink throughout. A notable look from this showcase was this sheer jewelled dress paired with pink satin bows in a shade like Mara 7-718. Ayissi continues to bring African techniques to an international fashion stage.

On the more extravagant side of couture, this look by Ronald van der Kemp is a twin hue to Mara 8-3904. The show's notes were: "The Reset. A happening. Aware. Artful. Artisanal. Disarming. Intimate. Nostalgic. Hopeful."

The collection is daring, playful and loud, filled with countless patterns, angles, and exciting silhouettes.

Kim Jones of Fendi explained that hues of natural stones, rubies and

sapphires inspired this Fall 2023 Couture collection. "It's the idea of the silhouette being 'nothing' but everything at the same time."

The luxurious evening wear collection exudes mature elegance, and this look, in particular, is wholly embellished with pink-hued jewels in a hue close to Mara 7-716. The looks are consistently draped and wrapped, echoing a minimalist aesthetic from the 90s.

Valentino's Fall 2023 couture showcase had two conceptual drivers: simplicity and paradoxes. The show was called Un Château and was held at a historical site which Piccioli said was a metaphor for status and power. This look, in a colour close to Mara 6-663, was designed as a simple bias-cut dress, but Picciolo wanted to achieve a no-gravity floating effect. Featherlight, velvety, and softly draped on the body "to freeze the spontaneous motion of the dress in a sort of still image".

Balenciaga has entered a new classical era. In walks a new couture collection for Fall 2023 is simply divine. Each piece is meticulously designed and executed, with beautiful dramatic draping. A standout from the show is this show-stopping pink like Mara 7-247. "I like the couture that you can see, but I also like couture that you don't see. I think that's also a big part of who I am in making clothes, but also a big part of who Cristóbal Balenciaga was," Demna said, referring to the legendary Spanish founder.

Viktor&Rolf celebrated 30 years of conceptual glamour, spectacular beauty and provocative couture unexpectedly at their 2023 Fall Couture runway show. Thirty couture bodies inspired by bathing suits and bikinis reveal and dress up simultaneously. They played with proportions, exaggerated silhouettes, layering, minimal baroque decoration, and surrealism. The result is sculptural with a fun twist.

Crepe, satin duchesse, gazar and organza come in a vivid palette of colours, ranging from pale beige to dark brown with shots of almost-neon pink similar to Mara 7-321. The attitude is, as always, romantic but not soft. Confident but with a warm heart. Supremely feminine and unapologetic.

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MARA 7-321
in detail

SWANNDRI CELEBRATES 110

YEARS

The latest collection also commemorates the 110th of the label's founding, which includes several initiatives to celebrate the milestone, limited edition products, and collaborations. Darren Barry, head of design at Swanndri, said he used heritage and urban flavour to silhouette and material when drawing inspiration.

"Contemporary check designs give our Swanndri classics a fresh seasonal vibe. Wool, Cotton Canvas and Oilskin are the key fabrications we are showcasing. Jackets are always key for us in winter, so it's about how we can keep them fresh and functional," said Barry.

In addition to the seasonal collection, a smaller range called "End of Role" will be launched, inspired by the vital theme of sustainability.

"This concept uses up fabric that is destined for landfill. The limited-edition styles are designed using up the fabric role ends, closing the fabric wastage loop. We are very excited about this concept and its future. One of these 'End of Role' initiatives will be a product collaboration with a New Zealand brand called Feldon Shelters."

The Autumn Winter collection has always focused on natural materials, with wool being the label's signature material of choice. Wool is used because it is highly breathable, warm, soft on the

skin, and durable. Swanndri continues to look into wool technologies and partners with NZ Merino. ZQ Merino is an ethically sourced initiative used in most Swanndri wool jackets.

Swanndri has been around for 110 years, so it has become a Kiwi wardrobe staple. Barry described the customer base as being very broad.

"Some have been passing down Swanndri's to their children and purchasing new styles as and when they have a need for them. Others are weekend adventurers who want quality gear from a trusted brand and newer customers adopting the nostalgia of the bush shirt in an urban setting. Depending on what you're buying and how you're wearing it, there's something for everyone."

The colour strategy has been a priority this season, ensuring the collection is cohesive and merchandises well in store. The brand considers colour a foundation for the collection and future collections to help tell the seasonal story. Barry added that by utilising traditional fabrics such as wool and oilskin, there are some stand-out pieces.

"The men's Moreton Oilskin Hoodie and the Dunwich Wool Hoodie, as well as the Women's Rosewood Oilskin Hoodie and the Women's Anchorage fuse traditional fabrics into urban styling."

Swanndri is one of the most trusted outerwear brands in New Zealand, ideal for any type of weather. It is fitting that the latest Autumn and Winter collection has been inspired by nature and the great diversity of landscapes in our backyard, taking ideas from natural colour tones, textures, and technologies.

KANDILA NZ

For Aira Ebue, lighting a candle in her bedroom became integral to her self-care routine. However, she later realised the candles she was using gave both her and her husband an allergic reaction.

Because of this, she decided to do some research into the different kinds of candle waxes and fragrances involved in making a candle. At the same time, she was hoping to find a hobby that would fill her spare time and one that could potentially become a business.

From there, soy candle company Kandila NZ was made.

“The biggest surprise for me was that there were already so many candle-making suppliers within New Zealand, which made it so easy to start,” she said.

At Kandila, Ebue takes on the role of owner, content creator, planner, budget maker and everything else needed for her brand. While at the same time, her husband helps drop off customer orders at the post office.

What makes her brand unique is that all her candles are hand poured, modern and minimalistic. Ebue also uses environmentally friendly ingredients, including natural soy wax, cotton bag packaging and phthalatefree fragrance oils.

Her signature collection originally started with only three scents; by the

middle of last year, two new scents were introduced. Her current favourites from this collection are the Lychee & Black Tea and Japanese Honeysuckle. She chooses her range based on her favourite scents she discovers during testing as well as trying to find a scent that is not often found in stores.

“From having a scent to wake up to at the beginning of your day to something to wind down to when having your “me” time, I’ve got you sorted.”

Ebue is most proud of the loyal and ongoing customers she has received since starting her brand. One day she hopes to expand further by getting more wholesalers throughout New Zealand and grow her current range with new and exciting products.

“Candle making for me is very therapeutic, I find the whole process soothing, and it calms my mind space. Even though it is hard work and

sometimes I don’t have the motivation to do it, when I start to get in the zone, I remember why I started,” Ebue explained.

From a young age, Ebue was exposed to her father's photography studio and from there, she also found a passion for photography.

“I remember having this old film camera, a Barbie brand, and it was hot pink, and I would take it everywhere with me.”

She also went on to explain that some of the most memorable moments for her were when the whole extended family would have picnics at the park, and she would be snapping pictures of them.

When she landed her first job, she brought a digital mirrorless camera for herself to enjoy. Now she gets to combine her passion for photography and candle-making with Kandila.

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designer focus

RORY WILLIAM DOCHERTY

Rory William Docherty grew up in an artistic family, and it was from a very young age that he began drawing. From there, he found a passion for fashion and drawing up his own designs.

Following college, he decided to study fashion design at Massey University and has been immersed in the fashion world ever since.

His first role at twenty-two was as a designer at Swanndri, where he was responsible for designing, developing and delivering workwear, activewear and casualwear to farmers.

After that, Rory spent some time in London, where he gained industry experience working on the shop floors of Prada and Yohjio Yamamoto.

“Through this work, I gained a love for craftsmanship and conceptual design and learnt about the importance of a strong visual brand identity,” he explained.

After that he moved behind the scenes to develop tailoring for a larger supplier to multinationals including Topshop.

He then worked in design and production for around five years, an experience he said strengthened his attention to detail and melding of functionality and creativity. While at the same time contracting for various companies in areas like design, fitting, merchandising, illustration, print and textile design across men's, women's and children's wear.

From there, Rory decided to create his very own fashion brand, Rory William Docherty.

“I wanted to create something personal and new, but still beautiful, unapologetically so, relatable but not of the moment, like a lingering dream. The pure form of selfexpression has evolved into a brand which now has much consideration to comfort and cost per wear as to the vision,” he said.

Rory William Docherty stands for timeless craftsmanship, seasonless slow fashion, and original artwork. Each print is based on his own drawings and paintings, reimagined in signature silhouettes.

He sources his inspiration from what is happening around him while answering questions like, what do people need and desire in their wardrobes now? Who does this item serve? And what impact does it have?

When it comes to the brand's aesthetic, his inspiration is diverse and often seemingly disjointed, but always a result of external observations and internal reflections from urban environments, architecture, artist movements, literature, and the abundance of inspiration in nature.

“I am driven by the desire to create essential, optimistic, restrained and relevant solutions that stand the test of time and provide people with pieces that solve a need, empower, comfort and elevate.”

The latest collection, ‘REBUILD’ is a considered collection of effortless pieces to rebuild a wardrobe for a new era. With core items intermixed together offering solutions for the weekend, work, and the evening, with a spirit of independence. Crafted to last with unmistakable Rory William Docherty original artworks.

The collection also reflects Victorian buildings both aesthetically and emotionally, in its architectural origami like details, and the elongated and exaggerated proportions.

Rory advises anyone looking to step into the fashion industry to explore, be open to opportunities and willing to roll up their sleeves and give things a go. His own journey has seen him have the privilege of dressing many people for special moments along with transforming, uplifting and empowering many people with his work each day.

His goals for the future is to grow the Rory William Docherty brand in a sustainable way. While simultaneously developing meaningful long-term partnerships with retailers and connecting directly with the people who wear and appreciate his work.

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MASTERING CUSTOMERCENTRICITY IN RETAIL

EVOLUTION OF CONSUMER EXPERIENCE IN 2023

Explore the importance of customer-centricity in the post-pandemic retail landscape. Learn from EDITED’s latest research and case studies on maintaining customer loyalty, embracing hyper-personalization, and utilising new technologies to meet the evolving expectations and purchase habits of 2023 consumers.

WHAT IS CUSTOMERCENTRICITY?

Pivoting from a productfirst to a customer-centric approach is critical for retailers navigating the post-pandemic world, which has seen digital innovations accelerate and cost of living challenges grow. As shopping behaviors consequently shift, retailers need to stay agile and put their customers at the heart of the decision-making

process. This means truly understanding who they are and what they value, as well as staying in tune with their ever-changing expectations and purchase habits to foster high levels of loyalty and long-term brand advocacy.

Gartner recently highlighted three factors that help determine if an organization is truly customer-centric. This includes engaging and listening to customers,

understanding that products and solutions don’t solve every customer problem, and changing internal structures in the face of customer needs. McKinsey expands on the benefits of customercentric strategies from recent research and found that, “retailers have access to increasingly more granular and sophisticated data on their customers’ behaviour and purchases. This visibility will enable merchandising to accelerate the move from “art” to “science,” particularly for certain categories of business (such as replenishment goods and commoditized products).”

HOW IS THE CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE EVOLVING IN 2023?

1. Customer Loyalty is More Important than Ever

As inflation and rising living costs continue to increase, customer

loyalties are being tested as purchases become more considered and restricted to essentials. Recent EDITED data has found that brand loyalty is actually at a two-year high as new customers appear less confident shopping outside their favourite retailers during the cost of living crisis. Nurturing these relationships is critical to retaining this customer spend once wallets open up again and ultimately futureproofing your business.

2. It’s Becoming HyperPersonal

The retail landscape has shifted considerably since pre-2020. The digital acceleration of the market has opened up multiple channels for consumers to shop, learn and interact with brands. This explosion has also meant that consumer expectations are skyhigh, demanding relevant products tailored to their preferences, 24/7 availability and competitive prices. Offering a personalized

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experience is therefore no longer limited to marketing efforts and retailers need to leverage data to understand their customers’ shopping behaviors and habits on a deeper level in order to make informed and targeted decisions. EDITED’s Basket Analysis tool makes it easy for teams to discover what high-value customers are purchasing together to optimize marketing and merchandising strategies and drive higher average order value.

New Technologies & the Rise of Phygital Retail Technological

3.

advances, such as augmented and virtual reality, are creating huge opportunities for retailers looking for new ways to interact and engage with their customer base. The blurring of physical and digital lines has grown in popularity as brands seek out entertaining and immersive reallife experiences, while maintaining the efficiencies and convenience of online shopping. McKinsey & Co. also stresses the importance of creating a compelling omnichannel experience throughout the customer journey with its research finding that “best prices” were the most important factor in online purchases,

while “interacting with products in person” is the biggest driver in store.

The rise of generative AI and emerging tools, such as ChatGPT, have also garnered attention in 2023, posing the potential to revolutionise the industry and the customer experience. Zalando recently announced its plans to launch a fashion assistant powered by ChatGPT to enhance its online experience and product discovery.

EDITED’s in-house team of analysts combine years of industry experience with retail data to provide the most up-to-date trend

reports and insights into industry shifts.

RETAILERS PUTTING CUSTOMERS FIRST WITH EDITED

EDITED is the world’s leading AI-driven merchandising experience platform that empowers brands and retailers with real-time decision making power that drives profits and inspires customers.

We help retailers increase margins, generate more sales and drive better outcomes through AI-driven Market and Enterprise Intelligence to fuel Automation. By connecting

business analytics and external market data, retail’s most successful brands and retailers use EDITED’s platform to get closer to their best customers and future-proof their business.

Randy Cousin, SVP of Product Concept at Tommy Hilfiger believes “being consumer-centric means we are moving at the speed of culture, but also changing and evolving with the consumer at large. That’s why it is especially important to have a partner like EDITED who can help us look at what the world is doing and how it is changing.”

Boston Proper has also turned to EDITED’s Connected Commerce platform to maintain their focus on their customer, Lucy, as they tansform into a digital-centric company. President and CEO, Sheryl Clark, stated “we use EDITED for industry trends, to help us really understand what’s going on in the marketplace, and to understand what is behind our own internal data so we can take immediate action on our business. Data, customer insights, and industry trends feed the product and creative teams, and guide us as we evolve and create each new collection for our customers.”

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