$ 10.95
October/November 2021 I VOL 54 I NO 5
fashionable reads
editor's note
Is Your Click & Collect a Success or an Epic Fail? The boom of Click & Collect is here to stay. At an all-time high, Click & Collect has become the new norm as customers remain cautious as we come out of lockdown. Pretty much every business than can has pivoted to online to either support a bricks and mortar store or as e-commerce only offering. During lockdown, our team tried several different companies to assess the click and collect experience. From fashion brands to FMCG, beauty to petfood, DIY to fresh produce. Mitre 10 knocked click and collect out of the park and were the clear winner in our unscientific test. Working with large volumes of customers and products, they set out a clearly marked drive-thru with a time allocation given to customers for pick up of click & collect orders. It was and is still seamless and easy, staff are well trained, pleasant and helpful, they also maintained social distancing and all COVID-19 protocols. Animates was another winner in the click and collect stakes, and both companies thrived and exceeded customer expectations. However, another giant chain clearly struggled and cracked under the pressure. The Warehouse was the worst experience, struggling with out-of-stocks, they took over three weeks to organise a time to collect a small Click & Collect order. When an allocated time to pick up was finally given, it was the same as rocking up without a timeslot at all. Disorganised chaos ensued as the dedicated Click & Collect store in Newmarket was clearly overwhelmed. Staff were untrained, no system was in place, and the orders all seemed to be dumped in an empty room, staff having to wade through a huge volume of packages to find an order. The dog was barking and the tail was wagging but unfortunately, they were not in sync. In sheer frustration, after waiting nearly an hour, the click and collect had to be abandoned as when they did manage to find the package, the item was broken from being tossed around the storage area. Giant wooden crates overflowed with packages of all sizes, looking worse than a teenager's bedroom. When retail was allowed to reopen its doors, we all put on our big girl pants and braved the Westfield's 277 in Newmarket to see how new health and safety protocols were being implemented. Highly commended in this, was Country Road. They had a roped lead-in area
ready for customers to maintain social distance, sign in and sanitise. A separate exit path was also roped off. One of our team did have an unfortunate experience, where a manager of a business was not wearing a mask and continued to converse with customers without a mask and not socially distanced. When asked, the manager aggressively said: “I’m not wearing a ******* mask all day.” Well, they certainly shouldn’t be open for business. Everyone knows it's not fun to wear a mask, it's hot, uncomfortable and hell in the heat (and it fogs up glasses!). No one wants to be working wearing a mask all day, but until there is another option this is it at the moment given the times we are living in. It is an extremely privileged position to be in to not be affected by the pandemic, have a family member or friend with COVID-19 or not be impacted by the financial cost that the pandemic is taking. Wearing a mask is not just about business or even Government mandates, it's about looking after the person next to you. Being considerate and careful, actually giving a damn that your actions have consequences, not just for you and your family, but for your customers, for strangers, for those immune-compromised or already unwell. No one wants to be responsible for someone getting or dying of COVID-19. If you don’t want to wear a mask, follow safety protocols and get into line with the majority of New Zealanders, close up shop and stay home. We are not out of the woods yet and watching what is happening overseas new variants of the virus are on the way to us. So toughen up, pull on your mask, have comprehensive systems in place that are fluid and can be moved up and down the scale as needed. Be prepared, make sure that you are ready for all Let’s make some money in a socially distanced and safe way. It is not business as usual, subsidies are pretty much over under the traffic light system, and business commentators are of the opinion that 2022 is going to be challenging, so buckle up, it’s going to be one hell of a year.
behind APPAREL...
CHAIRMAN PUBLISHER ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE CONTENT MANAGERS GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM
2
Peter Mitchell
ISSN 1171-2287 (Print) ISSN 2744-5976 (Online)
Tania Walters
Retail 6, 2 Ruskin Street, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 304 0142 Email: edit@reviewmags.com
Kieran Mitchell Sarah Mitchell Caitlan Mitchell Janet Guan Caroline Boe Raymund Sarmiento, Debby Wei
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
This magazine is published monthly under license. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to Review Publishing Co Ltd. This magazine is a platform for the industry and may include content that expresses views and opinions by contributing writers. Content is attributed to the author, and these opinions and the view/s are those of the author/s. They do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of any other agency, organisation, employer or company. The opinions and material published in this edition are not necessarily those of the publishers unless expressly stated. All material appearing in the magazine, website and social media platforms is copyright and may only be reproduced with the written consent of the publisher. Copyright 2021
Making a Spectacle: A Fashionable History of Glasses
By Jessica Glasscock From 13th century Franciscan monks to Beyonce in Black is King, Making a Spectacle charts the fascinating ascension of eyeglasses, from an unsightly but useful tool to fashion's must-have accessory. The power of glasses to convey a range of vivid messages about their wearers have made them into a billion-dollar business that appeals to cool kids and rock stars and those who want to be like them, but the fashionable history of eyeglasses was fraught with anxiety and drama. Making a Spectacle traces contemporary high fashion frames back to their origins: the military aviator, the glam cat eye, the nerdly Oxford, the high-tech shield, the fanciful butterfly, the lowly rimless, and other styles all make an appearance.
How To Read A Dress: A Guide To Changing Fashion from 16th to the 21st Century By Lydia Edwards Fashion is ever-changing, and while some styles mark a dramatic departure from the past, many exhibit subtle differences from year to year that are not always easily identifiable. With overviews of each key period and detailed illustrations for each new style, How to Read a Dress is an appealing and accessible guide to women's fashion across five centuries. Each entry includes annotated colour images of historical garments, outlining important features and highlighting how styles have developed over time, whether in shape, fabric choice, trimming, or undergarments. Readers learn how garments were constructed and where their inspiration stemmed from at key points in history - as well as how dresses have varied in type, cut, detailing and popularity according to the occasion and the class, age and social status of the wearer.
Versace: The Complete Collections (Catwalk)
By Tim Blanks Founded in 1978, Gianni Versace’s family-operated fashion house quickly grew into a symbol of high glamour and luxury known the world over. Throughout the 1980s and 1990s Versace’s styles were worn by iconic celebrities such as Madonna and Princess Diana. After Gianni Versace’s tragic death in 1997, his sister Donatella became artistic director of the brand, steering it into the twentyfirst century and cementing its legendary status for a new generation of fans. This magnificent celebration of more than forty years of Versace’s trendsetting creations is organised chronologically and includes both haute-couture and ready-to-wear collections. With an extensive reference section, a concise history of the house, and biographical profiles of Gianni Versace and Donatella Versace, this volume provides an unrivalled view of one of the world’s most illustrious fashion houses.
CALLING ALL EMERGING DESIGNERS DO YOU WANT TO STOCK YOUR DESIGNS AT THE SHELTER? WE ARE LOOKING FOR TALENTED INDEPENDENT DESIGNERS TO SHOWCASE THEIR COLLECTIONS
CONTACT OFFICE@THESHELTER.CO.NZ FOR MORE INFORMATION WWW.THESHELTER.CO.NZ
fast five
EMMA LEWISHAM’S NEW LIMITED EDITION HOLIDAY ADDITIONS Emma Lewisham launches its limitededition Holiday Illuminating Face and Body Oil. With the warmer months firmly on the horizon, they're adding a limited edition holiday product to their scientifically-backed, 100 percent natural Illuminating range with our new Illuminating Face and Body Oil. The Illuminating Face and Body Oil is a decadent, ultra-luxurious treatment for your entire body. The formula harnesses a proprietary complex of organic (70.45 percent) and innovative botanical ingredients to nourish and hydrate the skin’s surface for the most radiant holiday glow. “For our first body product, I wanted to bring to market a truly innovative ultra-luxurious oil that delivers more skin health results than just a beautiful glow. Our limited edition Illuminating Face and Body Oil incorporates a Phytolipid complex that is designed to deliver ultra-hydrated, glowing and smooth skin. An innovative oil-soluble Hyaluronic Acid (HA) formulation for plumping hydration is incorporated and is scientifically shown in vitro to
deliver antioxidant protection over eight hours. Unlike other cosmetic oils on the market, our complex utilises proprietary technology which has allowed us to create an oil formulation that incorporates HA, which is typically oil insoluble, for superior hydration benefits once applied. Not only does the Illuminating Oil deliver unparalleled hydration and moisturising skin health benefits, but it also offers antioxidant protection while granular minerals simultaneously wrap the skin for a sun-kissed glow,” said Founder Emma Lewisham. The botanical Phytolipid complex is a non-comedogenic lipid formula, carefully comprised of Macadamia Oil, Jojoba Oil and Olive Oil. The innovative complex is designed to deliver a healthy skin surface lipid profile. Phytolipids are naturally occurring plant-based oils that can help maintain a healthy skin barrier against free radicals caused by environmental stressors such as UV damage and pollution. An independent in-vitro test showed the Face and Body Oil delivers antioxidant protection over eight hours at a skin cellular level. The Illuminating Face and Body Oil is peppered with minerals that glisten and glow on the skin’s surface for an instant bronzing shimmer to reveal the most radiant glow this summer.
CLEAN, LUXURY NEW ZEALAND BODY-CARE BRAND TRONQUE LAUNCHES TO COMBAT NECK-DOWN NEGLECT
JEUNEORA SURPASSES MINIMUM CAPITAL RAISE TARGET Kiwi-owned beauty and wellness business secures a $2.7m investment as it sets sights on international markets and new product growth. Innovative Kiwi beauty and wellness brand Jeuneora has successfully raised $2.7m through its capital raise, with multiple parties coming on board to invest in the business including a significant investment from the former owners and founders of modern furniture store Mocka. There is now less than $300k available for new investors interested in securing a stake in the company, with the maximum target set at $3m. READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE
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New Zealand body-care brand Tronque launches today with a range of luxurious, clean, face-worthy skincare products created with every body in mind. Delivering Bio-Cleanical® body-care made from non-toxic, minimally processed, plant-based, organic ingredients, Tronque is against neck-down neglect and on a mission to create a habitual ritual of everyday luxe skin care specifically for the body. READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE
EXPERIENCE SUMMER WITH ICEBREAKER
SHOPBACK ACQUIRES 100 PERCENT OF BNPL START-UP, HOOLAH
icebreaker's new season 100 percent merino tees are here to help you stay cool on those warmer days. Merino is an annually renewable fibre that naturally resists odours, keeps you cool when it’s hot and warm when it’s not, and lets your skin breathe for comfort all day, every day. Looks featuring 100 percent merino, include the Tech Lite II SS tee and Sphere SS Crewe available for both men and women. Inspired by nature, icebreaker harnesses the performance qualities of natural fibres to offer an alternative to clothing based on petrochemical synthetics.
ShopBack, a loyalty platform, has announced that it will acquire 100 percent of hoolah, a buy now pay later (BNPL) platform. Both companies are based in Singapore and operate in Southeast Asian markets. This acquisition will extend hoolah's BNPL offering to over 8,000 merchants and offer this payment option to shoppers across the Asia Pacific, including Singapore, Malaysia and Hong Kong. The merge also means new features will be added to Shopback's platform, therefore becoming more than just a loyalty app for e-commerce.
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cover story
THE
E G A N IRO IS OVER
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The new handheld clothes steamer from Propress is a natural and efficient way to care for essential fashion and fabrics around the shop floor.
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entle on the most delicate, tough on germs and easy to use and maintain, the Propress MINI clothes steamer smooths creases, restores shape and removes odours to keep garments looking fresh at all times.
INSPIRED BY FASHION For over 40 years Propress steamers have been the first choice for fashion designers, fabric care companies, and top High Street fashion stores. The robust yet lightweight design, combined with outstanding performance and power is what makes Propress the steamer people aspire to, and now it's available in a sleek portable handheld option, with either standard slimline tank or add the unique Big Belly tank for larger jobs.
WHY A PROPRESS HANDHELD STEAMER?
SAFE TO USE ON DELICATE FABRICS Reloved and vintage fabrics are a breeze. The Propress steam action is gentle on delicates, so you can steam, worry-free.
UNIQUE SOLEPLATE FOR CREASES AND PLEATS The coated heated sole plate gives the Propress MINI handheld clothes steamer twice the performance; dispersing the steam effectively, relaxing the fabric, and quickly confirming creases and pleats. The soleplate can also be used as a dry iron.
KEEPS ODOURS AT BAY Removes odours by killing 99.9% of bacteria, which create musty smells on fabrics while still being extremely gentle.
Propress began making clothes steamers in 1980 and has become a firm favourite for leading international fashion experts.
Compact for travelling, and no ironing board is needed at your destination.
QUICK AND EASY
HELP TO SAVE THE PLANET
No need for an ironing board, steam straight on the hanger. The MINI handheld clothes steamer is ready to go in just 45 seconds.
Fast warm-up time, less water from fewer wash cycles, no chemicals used, and gentle on fabrics.
PERFECT ON THE GO
FOR JOBS BIG OR SMALL Press the steam button for controlled steam on demand, or double press for continuous steam delivery without holding the button down, perfect for larger garments. Use the optional unique Big Belly Tank to extend the steaming time.
PROPRESS MINI BIG BELLY TANK Designed to simply clip on to your Propress MINI instead of the standard slimline water tank, the Big Belly increases water capacity (from 130ml to 230ml) and steaming time (from 7 to 13 minutes) for the more demanding jobs, offering even greater versatility. The internal water flow system enables use in either vertical or horizontal without any loss of steam. Its clear construction also allows for easy visibility of the water level. Available in three unique colourways, Arctic Grey, Idol Blue and Vintage Pink, the Propress MINI handheld clothes steamer is the perfect accessory for beautiful garments. For more information visit www.propress.co.nz or email bruce@bma.co.nz.
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accessory alert
BARE JEWELLERY
T
his month, we caught up with Alena Hu, the founder of New Zealand based jewellery label, Bare Jewellery. Bare Jewellery began in October 2020, just after Auckland went into Alert Level 1 from the first lockdown. Hu comes from a photography background, and was a full-time photographer. The pandemic made her think about ‘what’s next?’. “I always believe in doing what I absolutely love is the way to live, so I wrote down a list of things I love, and four things that stood out to me were fashion, jewellery, branding/graphic design, and photography.” Creating her own brand allowed her to dip her toes into all four of the things she loves. “That’s when I took a leap of faith and dived into my dream job. I would sare Bare Jewellery was born from the desire of wanting to live a creative and romantic lifestyle,” explained Hu. Hu’s favourite piece, if she had to choose, would be the Mesi earrings and the Noa Necklace. “When I see the Mesi earrings, things like the white sand beach, white seethrough curtains, linen, the smell of Spring and Summer air immediately comes to mind. The Noa necklace is designed to be dainty and timeless, it almost goes with everything. I feel at
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ease when I put it on,” expressed Hu. Every creator has a great imagination, and Hu loves to see each jewellery piece she creates to have its own personality. Hu’s design style is timeless, peaceful and romantic. Her design style is a love letter to herself and Bare Jewellery lovers. Bare Jewellery’s latest collection was the craving for a coastal holiday, white sands and the hot summer sun that makes the water sparkle. In this collection we see the use of fresh water pearls and mother of pearls. “What’s better than wearing nature on you?” Looking towards to the new year, Hu hopes to move into in-store retail in order to better engage with her customers. For anyone hoping to enter the jewellery industry, Hu advises to do what you absolutely love – and you’ll find a way to succeed. “Always listen to suggestions from your customers and people who support you, because, without actually serving someone, or solving someone’s problem, you vision is just a dream existing on a mood board.” For more information about Bare Jewellery visit www.barejewellery.co.nz or email hello@barejewellery.co.nz.
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g n i s u e r a s t r e p x How the e
1 2 0 2 n i l a i c so
Mosh Social Media’s new 2021 New Zealand Facebook and Instagram Report has revealed the retail social strategies behind top Kiwi brands. Here, Mosh Co-Founder Jon Randles gives his top tips on how Kiwi SME’s can enhance their own social media to reach new and engaged audiences.
“I Jon Randles - Co-Founder, Mosh
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t can be easy to think of social media marketing as an afterthought when you’re running a business. The day-to-day can easily get in the way of regular content creation and scheduling. However, pushing social media to the side can put retailers on the back foot. Nowadays, audiences of all demographics are sitting and consuming content on social platforms. In fact, according to our Mosh report, social media attracted over 110,000 new Kiwi users in 2020. That took the total number of New Zealanders with active social media accounts to 3.97 million — a whopping 82 percent of the entire population aged 16 to 64. Findings also showed the number one reason people follow a brand on social
media isn’t just for for entertainment, but to learn about products and services. In addition, 170,000 more online purchases were made in 2020, with 71 percent of Kiwis now shopping online. Your social media marketing is now the best way to reach engaged audiences who are already on the path to purchase. However, there are still many retailers out there who don’t realise the consequences of having a poor social media strategy. Social media can eat up a lot of your time very quickly. We all know how quickly an evening mindlessly scrolling on your phone can disappear, the same can happen with social media marketing. If you’re not super clear on the what, why, and how before you start, you will waste your time and money.
Pushing social media to the side can put retailers on the back foot. Nowadays, audiences of all demographics are sitting and consuming content on social platforms.
YET WE KNOW REVIVING AND STAYING ON TOP OF YOUR SOCIAL MEDIA CAN BE DAUNTING, SO HERE ARE OUR TOP TIPS TO SUPERCHARGE YOUR SOCIAL MEDIA:
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Know your audience: Speak to them in ways they want to be spoken to. Find out who your shopper demographics are on social media and how they use their apps. Are they more frequent in the mornings or evenings, do they prefer static or video content? Find out and play to your audience.
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Boost it: Back your content with investments and target the demographics and geographies the content is for. Even small boosting budgets will see your posts be prioritised by pay-to-play algorithms across Facebook and Instagram.
Post regularly and consistently: Pretty self-explanatory, don’t take a large hiatus from your socials. Even one simple story or post a week will keep your engagement up - a key priority in this type of marketing.
Do Giveaways: People love free stuff and you want to get products into people’s hands. However, make sure you’re checking the T&Cs for each platform before posting a giveaway. There are rules, you want to stay on the right side of them. For example, asking people to ‘Share’ on Facebook to enter a competition breaches their promotion rules. Google ‘Facebook Promotion Policies’, it’s the first result.
The world of social media marketing can look daunting, but having a good social content strategy will greatly benefit your business in the long run. Retailers, large and small, now need a real understanding of their audience, and then from there to understand the
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Plan ahead: Planning ahead saves a lot of time and is overall much more efficient, and will make your brand’s content effortless the more you get into the habit of doing it.
tools that they have at their disposal to be able to target these audiences. By making an effort to know your audience and talk to them authentically and honestly you can really start to optimise results across your social media platforms.
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Targeting is Key: Make sure you’re looking at who and where your paid posts are going. There is no excuse these days with the tools available to just blast your content to everybody and anybody.
Make sure it looks good: But not too good so it looks too slick and skippable. Ideally, your content will have personality and be authentic to your brand.
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Have fun with it: Social media should be taken seriously, but don't worry about being too polished and don't make it look like an ad. Relax and be authentic to your audience, because users can sense a lack of authenticity from brands a mile away.
If you’re looking to further enhance your business’ social media strategy Mosh runs training for SMEs that can give you the tools and knowledge to get started. Contact Jon@mosh.co.nz for more information, or visit mosh.co.nz and click ‘Training’.” www.apparelmagazine.co.nz
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B AL
LY
GIORGIO ARMANI
S SA LUI
ER
LI NO PAG
BESS
UR AR ARTH
MARA 197
MARA 195
ONITSUKA TIGER
ED2
AR DSQU
MARA 107
MARA 967 MARA 322
MARA 5396
on trend
A
Blue Period
re you feeling a little blue? Back in 1901, for three long years, Picasso definitely felt a little ‘blue’. Now known as Picasso’s Blue Period, art enthusiasts will know that this time was significant in Picasso’s life and art history. His paintings were essentially monochromatic in different shades of blue and blue-green, reflecting his sombre mood while painting works that saw him suffer financially. Fashion is all about creative expression. In this year’s Spring Ready to Wear 2022 runways, we saw themes of blue dominate every collection. It’s probably safe to say this is a nod to our collective mood during these uncertain times. Onitsuka Tiger’s designer Andrea Pompilio was heavily inspired by Tokyo’s hustle and bustle at nighttime for his Spring 2022 Ready-to-Wear collection. The edgy collection was showcased against a video set of the Japanese city, from futuristic tunnels to narrow streets. This two-piece set features bold cobalt blue stripes, in a shade similar to the Mara 332 thread, coupled with dark burgundy stripes. The two shades together are hues usually found on sports team jerseys or merchandise, thus, staying true to the brand’s sporty aesthetic. It could not get any bluer than this look by Luisa Spagnoli. The RTW Spring 2022 collection by designer Nicoletta
Spagnoli looked to the American West and South America’s pampas for a cowgirl chic collection. Fringe, linen and denim graced the runway. In a blue similar to the Mara 5396 thread, this strikingly flowy monotone blue look features a full-length dress belted at the waist with a chunky western-style belt. Topped with a classic cowgirl hat and matching accessories, Spagnoli takes cowgirl chic to the next level. ‘The Blue Period’ wouldn’t be complete without a classic denim look by Bally. Bally’s RTW Spring 2022 collection has a utilitarian feel with looks inspired by workwear silhouettes. The Swiss company did not compromise on quality in this Japanese denim look. The classic straight leg jeans took a back seat so the oversized front pockets in the denim jacket could shine. In a colour similar to the Mara 967 thread, the dark blue denim set is completed with tanned leather accessories and denim sneakers. Dean and Dan Caten of Dsquared2 showcased their RTW Spring 2022 collection via a digital runway at Milan Fashion Week. The collection is grungy and edgy yet delicate and fun, all at the same time. The juxtaposition between edgy and delicate was seen in each look. The edgy; camouflage print and studded wide waist belt, contrasted with the delicate; the flowy fit of the parka, is a subtle nod to the Dsquared2
dystopian fairy tale. The seafoam blue seen in the camouflage parka matches the Mara 107 thread seamlessly. The models danced to 60s and 70s soulful Italian pop as they walked down the runway at the Giorgio Armani RTW Spring 2022 show. The collection saw silk trousers, collarless jackets and sheer blouses. This look in particular is in an overall calming baby blue, like the Mara 197 thread. The flowy silk trousers are thoughtfully gathered at the ankle and the textured bodice features tiny specs of bright red for contrast. The look is completed with a unique headpiece and layered beaded necklaces sparkling like droplets of seawater, all in matching baby blue tones. A true celebration of the popular shade we’ve seen on the runways. Taking a trip down memory lane, Arthur Arbesser restored a carefree spirit with his colourful Spring 2022 collection. Creative doodles and sketches inspired the looks on the runway. This particular look, however took a different route. Although it doesn’t include any bold patterns, it is still a bold look nonetheless. In a shade similar to the Mara 195 thread, the unique iridescent blue trench coat has Rockstar status and is full of fun. Its monotone style allows an otherwise statement piece to be easily paired with neutral pieces like a black button-up or a pair of black trousers.
Threads available from
0800 837 797 www.terryapparel.co.nz www.apparelmagazine.co.nz
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CATEGORIES IMPACTED BY PRICE INFLATION
From rising supply chain costs to elevating brand equity, we dive into areas of opportunity for price hikes. Inflation has been infiltrating retail. This has led to designer brands using the opportunity to elevate brand perception while mass retailers feel the pressures of rising costs. KEY TAKEAWAYS
• With rising material costs, retailers find themselves with an opportunity to invest in more sustainable fabrics. In denim, look to blend cotton with hemp, Lyocell, or Tencel™ where prices are beginning to level out and make an environmental impact. • Cult brands and must-have sneakers can command a higher retail price due to demand and are already seeing significant price increases versus 2019. Look at small upcharges initially that will go unnoticed by consumers. • Maintaining premium brand perception in the eyes of the consumer serves as another motivation for price increases on best-selling products. Double-digit hikes have been implemented by Louis Vuitton, Prada and Gucci compared to 2019. High street retailers should reserve this strategy for core products already in high demand. • A blend of rising material costs, a higher focus on sustainable innovation and customer demand have all contributed to active and sportswear retailers marking up their retail prices. Tank tops and sweatshirts are two categories seeing the largest jump in average price due to garment construction and design details.
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(fig.1)
(fig.2)
PRICE INFLATION DRIVERS
(fig.3)
Supply chain challenges The industry faces an unprecedented amount of obstacles that are set to continue into next year as the aftermath of COVID and Brexit plays out. Costs across raw materials, shipping containers and production continue to rise as surging shortages port backlogs and reduced labor forces create a bottleneck that has caused severe delays in the making and delivery of goods. Rising cotton prices The price of cotton has reached $1.16 per pound, growing 47 percent from last year, levels the industry has not seen since 2011. Momentum has been building since last December in the US when the Trump administration banned companies from importing cotton from the Xinjiang region due to forced labor concerns. Extreme weather has also caused droughts, heatwaves and monsoons in key cottongrowing areas, resulting in shortages on top of shipping delays and COVID factory closures. Elevating brand perception While high street brands feel the strain of increased sell prices, the luxury market flourishes, associating higher price points with exclusivity and raising brand perception in a competitive market. LVMH recently revealed sales were up 20 percent to $15.51bn in Q3, accredited to its luxury fashion brands, including Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior and Fendi. Consumer demand With restrictions easing and rising household savings, it is predicted that sales could increase over 10 percent in the US versus last year in November and December and, in effect, increase inflation. There is additional strain on retailers working to minimize delays and stock shortages to fulfill demand. Making up for 2020 Retailers looking to claw back losses from the previous year will be capitalizing on the current shopping boom. Strategies see brands allocating stock to their bestperforming stores and online platforms to maximize sales. Luxury labels including Louis Vuitton and Chanel have cited this as a contributing factor to their price increasing initiatives.
THE FIVE CATEGORIES IMPACTED 1. Denim Rising cotton prices have affected denim categories the most, making up over 90 percent of the raw materials used in
(fig.4)
production. Kontoor Brands, which owns Wrangler and Lee jeans, has already seen stock prices fall 6 percent this week. Across some of the biggest players, we have begun to see increased sell prices, with Lee US and G-Star UK climbing 11 percent versus last year. Interestingly, price points in 2021 at the majority of brands are substantially higher than in 2019 pre-COVID. With inflation equally affecting organic cotton prices, sustainable materials come into focus as an alternative source. Levi's has already begun to use hemp, Tencel™ and Lyocell blends within denim ranges, seeing 30 percent of current in-stock options across regions featuring ecomaterials. As the gap closes between cotton and sustainable fabric cost prices, retailers have an opportunity to introduce blends, not only making an environmental impact but justifying increased costs to customers. (fig.1) 2. Sneakers The footwear sector faces huge bottlenecks and delays as factory closures and raw material shortages like plastic, nylon and mesh continue. In the US, The
Bureau of Labor Statistics has reported shoe prices have increased 6.5 percent in September versus last year, the fastest rate in over two decades. Sneakers come into focus as China and Vietnam hold the monopoly on innovation and output, posing difficulties for sneaker production to relocate. All months barring August showed YoY increase, with September climbing 26 percent, peaking at $77 versus $66 in 2019. (fig.2) Similarly, the UK has seen an upward trajectory as the average price of sneakers climbed 5 percent from July to September. Across October, wholesalers were increasing sell prices to help offset lower margins. Retailers should bear in mind that although hyped drops and iconic silhouettes can carry the weight of additional costs, customers have already seen significant price changes, like the Air Jordan 1 Mid sneakers in the UK increasing 24 percent from 2019. (fig.3) 3. Luxury handbags The handbag is a staple accessory and underpins the identity of numerous high-end brands. Several labels have www.apparelmagazine.co.nz
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come out this year, stating intentions to bump up current prices even higher. Louis Vuitton has already applied the tactic to some of its best-selling handbags to make up for missed sale opportunities in 2020 and enhance its already strong brand position in the market. In the same vein, Chanel, Prada and Gucci have implemented similar tactics. Compared to 2019, the average full price of in stock handbags at Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Prada increased by double digits, with Louis Vuitton noting the biggest jump. As identified in our recent LVMH vs. Kering report, pricing strategies from both groups have included marking up prices, and it's working. LVMH reported revenues +56 percent in Q3 and +46 percent in Q4, driven primarily by fashion and leather goods. Undisturbed sales provide further evidence that the luxury consumer is not deterred by inflating price tags, which can also offset the cost of rising raw materials. (fig.4) 4. Cult footwear Cult brands have a major leg up in today's retail landscape thanks to social media and the power of the influencer. Since 2019, several hyped labels have subtly found ways to increase pricing while keeping demand intact. Cultfavorite, Crocs, reported record sales in the most recent quarter, with its average selling price up 8 percent. The brand announced its plans to hike prices even more in 2022. Dr. Martens increased the price of its signature 1460 boot this year with the addition of the sustainable material, Ventile, which drove the unit price up from $230 to $250. Adding eco-
Compared to 2019, the average full price of in stock handbags at Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Prada increased by double digits, with Louis Vuitton noting the biggest jump.
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(fig.5)
friendly ingredients into footwear not only makes for a better planet but for a better margin rate as well. Birkenstock capitalized on the popularity of its Arizona sandal, which has been trending across Instagram. The brand raised prices from $39.95 to $44.95 this year, driving the overall stock price from sub-$100 all the way up to the $130-140 range. Affiliated with premium price tags, Bottega Veneta and Ganni also took advantage of brand hype this year, graduating a majority of their in stock assortment to higher price brackets. Two years ago, the largest share of stocked footwear at Bottega Veneta sat in the £590-600 bracket versus £840850 this year. Both labels leveraged some of their most well-known and best-selling models to implement price increases to the consumer, recognizing their selling strength. 5. Sportswear Activewear and loungewear stockists are recognizing the opportunity that lies within the category as consumers adopt healthier lifestyles post-lockdown. Even more demand is stemming from the need for hybrid apparel that can transition between
working from home, exercising and running errands on the weekend. Newness over the last three months is +18 percent and +10 percent in the US and UK, respectively, compared to 2019. However, despite a more saturated market, demand remained undeterred with nearly every apparel category experiencing an increase from the previous two years. Focusing on more eco-friendly ingredients is one tactic to help the environment while also off-setting costs in the process. Everlane updated its cotton cutaway tank with 100 percent organic cotton, driving the price from $18 to $24. Q3 saw similar results as Nike updated the majority of its new-in shorts options from $30-40 to the $40-50 bucket. Lululemon started introducing higher ticket styles within its best-selling Align program. While most leggings at the retailer sit between $90-100, in 2019 and 2020, the most expensive pair of leggings in the program peaked at $118, which was then increased by $10 in 2021, elevating the exit price to $128. (fig.5) While the supply chain saga continues,you'll need to react quickly to market changes, minimize any inefficiencies and capture other wins.
Riva del Garda 15 18.01.2022
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NOW OR NEVER BY KETZ-KE
in detail
New Zealand fashion label, Ketz-ke's "Now or Never" summer collection is all about taking a leap, and turning dreams into a reality. Because why wait for tomorrow if you can do it today?
T
he collection is designed to inspire customers to stop waiting and try something new, whether that's a tick on the bucket list or switching up your usual style. "If the last year and a half has taught us anything, it is to appreciate living in the moment. I want my garments to provide a refreshed excitement for summer, embracing all the fun that comes in it and ultimately for our customers to feel amazing when they wear Ketz-ke," expressed Jenny Drury, owner and designer of Ketz-ke. The essence of this collection captures the vibrance and joy of the happiest season of the year, while ensuring easybreezy comfort. "Whether you're after attire for a summer soiree or a weekend coffee run,
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these styles offer both striking feminine features and relaxed silhouettes, inviting wearers to both look and feel their best." The biggest part of the design process for Ketz-ke is choosing the perfect fabrics and textiles to incorporate into their garments. "I'm very cautious that a fabric or print can make or break a style. Brenda, my sister who co-designs with me is very selective about the fabrics we use, always working closely with our mills," explained Drury. Ketz-ke is known for its prints, and this new collection certainly stands out in that regard. Going for modern takes on animal print, graphic interpretations of florals - including placement prints - and a classic stripe to round the collection out. “I take the role of designer very
personally and can't help but fall in love with all my garments.” However, if Drury had to choose her ultimate favourite Ketz-ke combo it would be the Ownership Tank and the Invent Pant, made in a beautiful soft linen fabric and a gorgeous summer chocolate. "I will be living in this combo this summer." Now or Never features hints of loungewear with the inclusion of a matching set, the Rosebud Tee and Instant Short. Just as comfortable as pj's but still done up enough to wear out. When customers find a style they adore, they love to see it again in a new print or slightly adapted. Well-loved Ketz-ke styles that are repeated in this season include the Cracker Top, Wicked Top, Chop Chop Top and Capital Tee.
If the last year and a half has taught us anything, it is to appreciate living in the moment. I want my garments to provide a refreshed excitement for summer, embracing all the fun that comes in it and ultimately for our customers to feel amazing when they wear Ketz-ke.
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accessory alert
GALLIVANT Like many small businesses, Gallivant launched during lockdown last year. In the pursuit of creating a place where all women could find timeless pieces of gold jewellery at a reasonable price, Gallivant was created. Owner, Rachel Twist, wanted to use her skillset that she had gained over the course of her career, for a purpose higher than herself.
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“I
’ve always had an entrepreneurial spirit. As a young girl, I would set up shop outside my childhood home in Kingsland with items I had grabbed from inside, much to my mother’s horror. I recall her having to retrieve some cushions I had sold to our neighbour,” said Twist. Twist’s favourite Gallivant piece would be the Emma earrings. One of the most simplest in design, however, they are a true testament to the brand’s motto, ‘made to be worn effortlessly, everyday’. “They’re classic and effortless and have become a staple in my daily wardrobe.” “Good design is when you can’t take any more away, so our designs are pulled back and timeless,” explained Twist. Gallivant’s latest collection was inspired by the desire to create a place where all women could find classic pieces that they’ll never want to take off – and won’t cost a fortune.
“This meant producing in gold filled, which is more economical than solid gold, and to the highest possible standard, which I know we’ve achieved.” The latest collection is entirely made of gold filled, which is the most tarnish resistant process for creating gold jewellery. With daily wear, Gallivant pieces do not flake over time, and if taken care of properly, they can last a lifetime. The base metal of each Gallivant piece is made from 100 percent recycled metals, and all orders come in plastic free packaging. Further, the brand words closely with artisans in Jaipur, India, who are famous for their hand craftsmanship. Gallivant donates $1 from every order to Women’s refuge, and they have partnered for Women’s Refuge to help support their vision of all women and children in New Zealand to live free from domestic and family violence. For more information visit www.gallivantstore.com or email hi@gallivanstore.com.
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ARE RESTOCKS THE NEW PRODUCT DROPS? While the drops model has reigned supreme in recent years, ongoing supply chain issues mean that retailers need to be extra careful with their buys. We analyse whether restocks have moved into favour among retailers, delving into replenishment rates and recent email communications. KEY TAKEAWAYS • As the supply chain crisis accelerates, retailers need to be mindful of their product investments. Restocks can carry less risk as previously successful items can help bring back customers who previously missed out. • Replenishment rates have increased since prepandemic levels across luxury, sportswear and sneaker retailers - Gucci has seen an uptick from 4% in 2019 to 17% in 2021. • Communications are key to promoting restocks and can help retailers build a similar level of hype achieved by new drops. Creating urgency with subject lines, utilizing customer content and responding to feedback and providing early access are noteworthy strategies here.
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS? They have a proven track record Having previously sold out, reinvesting in these products carries less risk for retailers than dropping new lines as they've already proven successful with your customers. You can also act on feedback here, such as restocking in a new color option. They help drum up hype As with exclusive drops, sought-after restocks can help build anticipation among your customer base and lead to quick sales over fear of missing out again. The ongoing supply chain crisis has also hugely delayed new season stock, so calling out collections that have arrived back in the warehouse can keep your communications fresh in the interim. They can help improve customer satisfaction With restocked products successfully tried and tested by shoppers, make sure you listen to and engage with reviews. Bringing back
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bestsellers in response to customer demand will help your audience feel valued and heard. It can also help bring back customers who previously missed out and were left disappointed. Have replenishment rates changed? Looking across luxury, sportswear and sneaker brands, replenishment rates have generally increased since pre-pandemic 2019 levels, reinforcing the idea of a shift towards restocks. While Gymshark and Adidas buck the trend in the sportswear market with less replenishment YoY, the latter has seen an uptick for sneakers in 2021 vs. 2019, as has Vans. Other sneaker brands follow a similar
suit with a clear upward trajectory in replenishment rates over the past two years. (fig.1, fig.2) The picture is also particularly apparent for luxury, a market that typically favours the drops model's exclusive and limited-time nature - all of our five analysed retailers have seen an uptick in replenishment since 2019. Gucci stands out here, with its replenishment rate jumping from just 4% in 2019 to 17% in 2021. COVID-19 severely impacted this market as consumers re-evaluated discretionary expenditure. As a result, restocking timeless classics and topperforming products may be a safer way to maintain
a brand's status than investing in lots of riskier trend-led drops. Gucci's latest online concept store, Gucci Vault, encapsulates this idea, selling rare and vintage items from its archives. (fig.3)
HOW ARE RETAILERS PROMOTING RESTOCKS? The Frankie Shop sticks to regular communications The cult brand has a clear communications strategy when promoting new arrivals and "back in stock" items within emails, pushing the former on Tuesdays and Thursdays and the latter on Saturdays. This strategy has been noted since 2019. Messaging is also pared back and consistent, with "Back In Stock!" a typically used subject line. (fig.4) Lulus utilizes email subject lines In contrast to The Frankie Shop, Lulus uses its email subject lines to create a sense of urgency and encourage its customers to shop items before they sell out again. In recent emails, capital letters, emojis and time-sensitive messaging, including "urgent" and "don't wait," stand out.
SKIMS taps into its community SKIMS nurtures brand loyalty by listening to its customers and restocking in-demand collections. For example, a recent email featured Instagram comments from its followers asking for its Fits Everybody collection to be replenished. "You asked, we answered" is also noted within its restocks messaging, making customers feel valued and
heard. Dunelm focuses on
Christmas With ongoing supply chain problems creating worries over shortages this Christmas, Dunelm recently called out its restocked products and highlighted that they would be delivered in time for Christmas. With delays continuing into 2022, retailers should clearly communicate when products are ready to ship this is particularly important for homeware retailers with longer lead times. Kai Collective hypes best-
OUR VERDICT Taking cues from streetwear, the drops model has become an increasingly popular strategy among retailers and this is unlikely to change any time soon. However, restocks are also becoming more apparent across retailer promotions and replenishment rates have grown accordingly. The current supply chain problems will only continue into 2022, meaning retailers need to be extra careful that their buys are hitting the mark with customers. Reinvesting in bestsellers and customer favourites carries less risk and through detailed promotion, retailers can achieve the same level of hype associated with new drops.
sellers After its Mayan plissé set drop sold out in 24 hours in August, the retailer encouraged customers to sign up for priority access to its restock, providing size, color and length details to help determine quantities. In October, it built hype before the restock by utilizing customer content and encouraging shoppers to "set your alarms." Subscribers then had two hours early access using the "password: collective."
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