Apparel Magazine | Spring 2022

Celebrating 20 Years

Elvis Really Has Left The Building

In my first editor's note, I wrote about my dad retiring and leaving the building. Aptly titled, Elvis Has Left The Building. But now, seeing his name gone from the imprint below, it really hit me that he has left us.

Charismatic, playful and with a wicked sense of humour, Peter passed away in the early hours of Monday, 30th May. He leaves behind a powerful legacy and a wonderful life story.

He first established Apparel magazine back in 1969, after persuading his mum to lend him $300 to set up offices. Six weeks later, the first edition of Apparel magazine was published. Peter did everything from sales, editorial and photography, then set to laying it up (in those days, it was by hand, no computers then). With a manual typewriter that I'm sure he belted to death by the sound of him slamming the keys and a landline, he was finally a publisher rather than a journalist. The world was his oyster, and he played as hard as he worked.

When I first understood that Dad had a fashion magazine, I was at the ripe old age of four. He persuaded me that stuffing envelopes with the subscription invoices was a great way to earn some pocket money, so along with my siblings, we were paid five cents per envelope. Unfortunately, we were fined 50 cents each time we sealed a window envelope and forgot to check that the address was the right way around! It took a long time to learn the lesson and earn enough for a lolly bag.

In my first decade as editor of Apparel, I've written a lot of editor's notes. Early on, I continued Peter’s habit of adding a joke in the editorial, this was commented on by many readers over the years. Some would come up to me at events and say that they always read the editor's note first. But I don’t feel like joking anymore. It is a painful and difficult time for us all here at Apparel as we remember not only an industry stalwart but a father, a

husband, a colleague and a good friend.

Peter was always one to help. It’s something that he ingrained into all of his children. So working here at Review, if we have the means, we help. It was watching my father help so many other small businesses across a range of industries that inspired me to help emerging designers develop and grow into strong New Zealand brands.

Gone but not forgotten, Peter has left a huge hole in our lives. Not all is lost; my husband very kindly noted that I inherited a lot of Peter’s personality and writing style. My mother, Tania, sister Sarah, and brother Kieran proudly continue Peter's legacy and add to the incredible body of work that he leaves behind.

The Apparel team carry on, but it is with a heavy heart.

Elvis has indeed left the building, but the echo of his presence remains...

Mirror Mirror: Fashion & the Psyche

By Mode Museum Dr Guislain Museum

Fashion Museum Antwerp and Dr Guislain Museum examine how fashion, psychology, self-image and identity are connected. The personal experience of the body is the central theme of this unexpected dialogue between visual art and avant-garde fashion.

It's All About Shoes

By Suzanne Middlemass

Shoes are part of the essential equipment of our everyday wardrobe. They can be seen as a practical necessity or as a unique and joyful fashion accessory that influences the entire outfit and makes it a distinctive expression of personal style, be it vintage or avant-garde, elegant or edgy, minimalist or extravagant. In It's All About Shoes, street style photographer Suzanne Middlemass presents a colourful mix of fab and fantastic shoes worn on the asphalt catwalks of the world's fashion capitals, including New York, Paris, Milan, London, Berlin, and Copenhagen.

This book is for fashion designers, cultural researchers, fans of innovative street-style fashion, and anyone looking for creative inspiration for their style.

Audrey Hepburn: The Illustrated World of a Fashion Icon

By Megan Hess

From Sabrina to Breakfast at Tiffany's, Audrey Hepburn is renowned for her acting skill and fashion style, but less well known is her life in Nazi-occupied Holland or her tireless dedication to helping those less fortunate than herself. Elegantly enclosed by a hardback cover and ribbon, Megan's beautiful illustrations follow Hepburn through three distinct chapters: her early life in World War II Europe, dreaming of becoming a ballerina; her ingénue years as the rising star of Hollywood and her incredible fashion partnership with Hubert de Givenchy; and her private life beyond the silver screen, building a legacy through her humanitarian work.

Ten Kings’ Clothes: Royal Danish Dress, 1596–1863

By Katia Johansen

written consent of the publisher. Copyright 2022

This book presents the unparalleled collection of seventeenth-century male dress belonging to the Danish kings from Christian IV to Frederik VII. The incomparable research showcases the display of each monarch, put into context against the backdrop of pivotal moments in Danish history, the networks of supply, and the production and circulation of luxury goods.

SUPERDRY’S NEW INTERNATIONAL SPORT CAMPAIGN

Global fashion brand Superdry, known for designing state-of-the-art, ready-towear gym to streets wardrobe staples, has launched its reimagined Superdry Sport collection with female athletes Jess and Sarah Hosking as the face of the brand's latest campaign.

The Australian-born Richmond AFLW players mark the latest Aussies to become the face of an international campaign by the British-based brand. Other international stars featured in previous collections include Idris Alba, Brooklyn Beckham, and New Zealand's own Hollie Smith and Stan Walker in previous collections.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB

STEALS THE SHOW

Stolen Girlfriends Club debuted its final apparel collection of 2022, American Dream on Friday night at this year's biggest fashion show, titled Avondale Fashion Week. After a long absence of New Zealand Fashion Week, Avondale Fashion Week was greatly received and celebrated. Hidden in an underground concrete bunker in Avondale, the location was filled with an audience of 1,200 brand fans. A giant LED screen, festival style speakers and lights brought this striking and illuminating show to life in the suburbs.

As the show came to an end the crowd poured out to the after party located metres away in a gravel carpark that had been transformed into a festival arena. Scapegrace cans were clinking as guests rushed to see the line-up featuring talented, local and international artists. The anticipation was real as everyone waited for the beats to wrap around the festival arena that was lit up by a giant disco ball, featuring none other than Cassettes for Kids, Andy Heartthrob, Daffodils and Kédu Carlö.

NIKKA MARCIAL, CROWNED MRS UNIVERSE AUSTRALIA 2022

Mrs Universe Australia's 2022 crowning ceremony recently occurred in Doltone House - Jones Bay Wharf, Sydney. The winner was a Filipino-Australian mum, Engineering Professional and advocate, Nikka Marcial.

Other winners include Linh Linh Bui, first runner-up; Casey Nato, second runner-up and Sophia Sarkis, Mrs Universe Australia Charity Queen.

Nikka Marcial is a loving mother, wife and advocate hailing from Bexley in Sydney.

Nikka holds a Bachelor of Science in Business Administration and works as a full-time Quality Assurance Officer for a leading engineering consultancy firm. She is also a certified real estate consultant and investor. This 34-year-old powerhouse is also a career woman thriving in the male-dominated engineering world. A proud Filipino-Australian, Nikka moved to Australia in 2015 with her husband and now 8-yearold daughter, Kandace. Her son, Marcus, was born in Australia in 2016, and Nikka became an Australian citizen in April 2021.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

DUO REUNITES TO RE-SCULPT NEW SILHOUETTES

Rick Owens' dark underground aesthetic and architectural, gender-neutral silhouettes are an ideal complement to Dr. Martens structured, utilitarian boots —and set the stage for another explosive collection that debuts this month.

The collection stands on the Dr. Martens 2” Quad Retro sole and retains the unmistakable signatures of Docs DNA alongside Owens’ dark and exaggerated architecture: both boots are fitted with an oversized, heightened tongue, heavy side zips, and adorned with dramatic wrap around laces.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

FIRST PREMIUM OUTLET CENTRE

New Zealand’s first premium purposebuilt fashion outlet centre will open in Mānawa Bay. This new 100-store shopping centre is planned to offer the sought-after premium fashion, homeware and lifestyle brands, and athleisure to Auckland Airport. With a development scheme of $200 million plus, this 150,000 metres-squared site will be a hive of activity aimed to be available in 2024.

The detailed design work of the interior is underway, constructing a “figure-of-eight” layout created for easy movement and navigation for visitors. Three entry points will open into a 24,000 metres-squared area of retail space and stores for customers to enjoy.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

Celebrating with

Mi Piaci shines bright after two decades of making bold moves in the fashion industry. Celebrating its 20th anniversary, Mi Piaci reminds us of how they continue to be a source of inspiration for women. We sat down with Louise Anselmi, director and buyer at Overland Footwear, to look back at Mi Piaci over the years.

It’s a huge milestone to celebrate and it all started on Broadway in the heart of Newmarket. “We wanted the shoes to shine and the atmosphere to be timeless and classic,” said Anselmi. In the early 2000s, Anselmi was still new to the business but working towards larger ideas of launching a premium brand. Her enthusiasm for a cutting-edge product was the beginning of her inspiration and something she carried with her as the brand idea evolved over time.

Anselmi describes the Mi Piaci style as a brand synonymous with confidence and a flare of risk. From the beginning, Mi Piaci has strived to deliver collections that inspire others while giving a sense of the unexpected. The brand's first designs were styled from Anselmi’s Overland stores 20 years ago, drawing on forward fashion ideas and trends. Over time, her team started sourcing products overseas, which led to more fashionable

risks taken in their collection.

Inspiring women is at the soul of Mi Piaci – right down to the very core of the brand's own creativity. Anselmi finds her inspiration to design in the world around her, in the people she sees, the places she travels, and in new styles on social media. Customer feedback and other fashion forecasting platforms are other valuable sources for Anselmi to draw on her artistry.

The evolution of their design has been an incredible process over the years. Initially, they sourced products internationally, but as their drive for more of their own design decisions and the creation of their own customer-centric styling increased, Anselmi’s team started an in-house design team. Designing and manufacturing the majority of the Mi Piaci range themselves for the last seven years, evolving their brand has been larger than ever. Among other exciting moments, such as recently collaborating with Kate Sylvester, Anselmi fondly

remembers moments over the years, such as Mi Piaci shoes surprisingly becoming top sellers or team members investing sheer passion into the brand.

Developing their own manufacturing capability has been a significant milestone for Anselmi and her team, allowing them the freedom to experience and make styles without being limited in quantity. In-house design and manufacturing have been revolutionary for Mi Piaci in a way that they can develop collections that focus on local customers. In Italian, ‘Mi Piaci’ translates to ‘I like you’. These words embed themselves into the making of each product as Anselmi values the unique aspects of the brand.

Looking back on her early days of Mi Piaci with pride, back to the borderline controversial campaign shot with Tony Drayton taking a dramatic stance in New Zealand’s fashion, Anselmi sees new opportunities for growth in Australia while continuing to refine the brand.

Following some advice Anselmi once received, she strives to follow her passion and work damn hard at it. Scanning the world, finding ideas, and bringing them to life are fundamentals of that passion. When discussing her favourite part about the process, Anselmi speaks of the entire journey, finding beauty and thrill in every working step from inception to seeing her design worn down the street.

Looking forward to the next season with excitement, Anselmi and her

team celebrate 20 years of fashion achievements. Driven in her role, finding the balance between science and art, and staying directional in her innovation and commercial appeal; Anselmi harnesses strength and passion for continuing Mi Piaci’s journey. With dreams of seeing her designs worn by influential women worldwide, Anselmi continues to uphold Mi Piaci’s vision of empowering women and delivering refreshing looks that inspire.

HERDAHL-THORSING FRAGRANCE

A fragrance brand under his namesake was born in a small office in the corner of Alexander Herdahl-Thorsing’s living room. Crafting fragrances was inspired by Herdahl-Thorsing’s amazement and love for old religious paintings full of archaic mythology. “It was the concept of God being perfect, a shining light and inspiration of what we should all strive to be,” said Herdahl-Thorsing. In 2017, this inspiration led to finding beauty and perfection in fragrances exclusively available to New Zealand.

This creative director and founder’s background is entirely self-taught. With a desire and freedom to create through trial and error, HerdahlThorsing thrived on learning and discovering in his own way. Reading anything he could get his hands on, he took in any information possible about fragrance creation to begin his journey. Like artists who painted pictures representing perfection, real paintings depicting angelic Gods, Herdahl-Thorsing wanted to harness this creation in his own way. He wanted to produce something beautiful that others would enjoy and capture perfection as he saw it himself.

With Herdahl-Thorsing Fragrance, his heritage remains close. HerdahlThorsing’s mother is Samoan, and his father is part English, part Danish. His father's gift to him when he was younger was a fragrance called Drakkar Noir, a scent that he fell in love with and wore all the time. This fond memory influenced a great deal of his passion for the strong and weighty style.

Most of the production is done by Herdahl-Thorsing. He explained this as an immensely rewarding process – the process of nurturing his products from

inception to finalisation. Receiving his packaging and bottles from manufacturers he trusts, HerdahlThorsing put his ideas and care into developing the website, creative direction, and fragrances themselves.

Though the team of HerdahlThorsing Fragrance is only himself, he collaborates with incredible individuals around the world to help with other aspects of the brand, such as photography and paintings. “You have half of the globe in the palm of your hand with Herdahl-Thorsing,” he said. His photographers in Turkey work with talented Ukrainian models to market his products. Herdahl-Thorsing’s brand ambassador, Paz, is located in Bali. The international aspect of HerdahlThorsing Fragrance is what contributes to its uniqueness in the beauty industry.

Selling online and starting e-commerce was how HerdahlThorsing got his foot in the door, and he continues to implement his online networking while reaching for larger goals. This line of skincare and fragrances has a bright future as Herdahl-Thorsing plans to expand into accessories and fashion. This exciting adventure could lead to opening his very own store, which would be a dream

come true. As Herdahl-Thorsing moves closer towards these goals, he is eager and open to working with more retail partners.

At this time, Herdahl-Thorsing Fragrance is launching a skincare range featuring a Peptide Serum and Peptide Moisturiser. This range focuses on antiageing, skin rejuvenation, restoration, and cell regeneration. This is paired with his latest fragrance range, the AULEIEI BLEND, a line of fragrances that honour adventurers, travellers, and sea voyagers. Herdahl-Thorsing delights in this range are the joy of exploration and travel in a bottle.

Bespoke fragrances able to capture one’s uniqueness is what HerdahlThorsing strives to create. His brand aims to find something that people will find joy in and give them the freedom to explore what fragrances can give. Taking his inspiration from timeless religious paintings and creating luxurious beauty products from the heart of his living room, HerdahlThorsing believes in giving something beautiful for anyone to enjoy.

For more information or to become a stockist, email herdahl-thorsing@ herdahl-thorsing.com or visit www. herdahl-thorsing.com

ITALIAN SUSTAINABLY FOCUSED DESIGNER DENIM BRAND TO LAUNCH IN NZ

European designer denim brand REPLAY is bringing its iconic high-quality styles to New Zealand this November with the debut of its first store in the country, following a successful Australian launch in April this year.

With a 40-year heritage steeped in denim and sustainable fashion, the Italian brand was amongst the first to integrate ecofriendly technologies along with natural pigments, recycled fabrics, and reduced water consumption into their production process.

At the core of REPLAY'S ongoing success is the philosophy that denim is more than a piece of clothing but an expression of one's identity.

The brand, which operates under the Brand Collective umbrella (home to iconic brands such as Clarks, Mossimo, Review and Shoes+Sox), will sit within the existing team helmed by Antony Hampson, General Manager of Superdry and now Replay in Australia and New Zealand.

As part of the brand's transition, former Superdry womenswear buyer Joshua Chait will now oversee the Replay buying team, with Matthew Iozzi adding the brand to his mandate as the marketing and PR manager for both Superdry and Replay across Australia and New Zealand.

According to Hampson, there is a significant opportunity ahead for Replay.

"The New Zealand consumer has a strong affinity for quality labels, and with international and domestic tourism returning over recent months, we see a sizeable moment for Replay. This, in

conjunction with the rise in luxury sales post-covid, provides an optimistic future for us."

This is backed by recent studies that forecast the luxury fashion market to rise to US$2.6 billion in 2022, with an annual growth rate of 5.42 percent (CAGR) from 2022-2027.

After entering the Australian market in April, with the launch of both e-commerce and brick-and-mortar with the unveiling of Replay Chadstone, the brand set its sights on New Zealand.

Set to open its doors in October, the new 100 square metre store will be located in Auckland's premier shopping centre, Sylvia Park, coinciding with the launch of mirrored New Zealand e-commerce store.

"REPLAY is happy to finally be coming to Aotearoa," said Matteo Sinigalgia, CEO of Global Replay. "We are proud to support New Zealand on the world stage and now offer New Zealanders unprecedented access to the best in European styling."

The brand is a staple favourite of celebrities and hosts high-profile sponsorships, from the All Blacks rugby team to the Paris Saint-Germain and Ajax Amsterdam football clubs, ambassadors Neymar Jr and legendary athlete Usain Bolt. In line with the brand's ethical ideals, items are not built to last through the latest season but a lifetime.

Traditional twists

In a post-lockdown world, consumers are keen to get back out there and are daring to dress for the moment. Putting the sweatpants away, strong silhouettes still rule the playground of fashion. This issue we focus on post-modern workwear where you see more and more designers revisiting traditional suiting styles and turning them on their heads. Post-modern traditional pieces should be revisited classics. Familiar yet new.

A.W.A.K.E. Mode's RTW Spring collection for 2023 was a mixed bag of structure, abstract and texture. The collection starts off strong with

monochrome black looks with its key pieces very structured - then the construction of these designs falls away and focuses more on texture and draping. Colour is slowly introduced and the black fades away as we receive this look featuring a bright green sheer relaxed blazer in a hue close to Mara 12-401. Jarring, shocking, even a little bit surprising.

The entire Spring 2023 range by Rokh is packed with traditional suiting worked to become something more. We especially enjoyed this juxtaposing fitted yet oversized piece. Just like Mara 17-1724, the collection follows a traditional colourway to not distract

from its unique shape and design. After seeing several other looks from this showcase, it is clear that the classic trench was its inspiration for the entire collection.

Daring to deconstruct traditional pieces, you will find a lot of references to traditional formal workwear here. This hero look from Sacai's Spring 2023 collection deconstructs the idea of a trench coat in this iconic shade like Mara 5-179. Turning the trench style into a two piece, it is a bold redesign of a classic. It ticks all the boxes for this style.

In an almost entirely black collection, we highlighted this unique piece from

MARA 2-4147

MARA 6-382 MARA 12-687

Yohji Yamamoto RTW Spring 2023 range. In particular, the jacket shown above has what appears to be the back of the traditional lapel turned to the front. This new style blazer features a structured pleated peplum in a shade like Mara 12-687.

The Spring 2023 collection by

Threads

from

Situationist showcased some of very interesting jackets. This key piece was a favourite of ours as it revisits a traditional shape. Similar to Mara 2-4147, it reimagines the lapels into a unique style, leading the way for postmodern traditional workwear.

A key piece from this collection was

a top skirt referencing the bottom half of a double breasted blazer. Seen here in black paired with a long sleeveless trench, mixing a traditional style in a pink vibrant hue similar to Mara 6-382. Layers upon layers of traditional pieces remixed into something new and exciting.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT NEW ZEALAND’S PLASTICS BAN

Single-use plastic cotton buds, drink stirrers and most plastic meat trays are among single use plastics that have been banned from sale or manufacture from the 1st of October.

“This is the first group of the most problematic plastic products to be banned in a progressive phase out over the next three years. On average, every year each New Zealander sends about 750kgs of waste to landfill. Some products can’t be recycled and are unnecessary,” said Environment Minister David Parker.

For those in the apparel and retail industries, the ban on Oxo- and photo- degradable plastic products will be the most relevant.

Oxo- and photo- degradable plastic products are typically made of conventional plastic that has been manufactured with additives that help the plastic to quickly fragment into smaller pieces, but don’t break down in a specified timeframe (like compostable plastics). These plastics can’t be composted or recycled in Aotearoa, and they leave micro-plastics in the environment. The type of plastic products that

we know may contain pro-degradant additives (pro degradant plastics) include:

• Bin liners

• Pet waste bags

• Litter tray liners

• Magazine wraps

• Dry cleaning bags

• Padded envelopes

• Garment packaging

While the ban targets all plastics with pro-degradant additives, oxoand photo- degradable plastics are the most common examples of these plastic types on the market now. There are a few additional plastic types emerging in this category, and we intend to provide updated information prior to these regulations coming into effect.

In mid-2023, the next group of single-use plastics to be phased out will include single use plastic plates, bowls, cutlery, single-use plastic produce bags and non-compostable produce labels. Other PVC and polystyrene food and beverage packaging will be banned from mid-2025.

ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY FASHION PACKAGING

The packaging industry accounts for one of the most significant volumes of virgin paper and plastic worldwide.

The fashion industry is currently the largest e-commerce market segment. The value of this industry is more than $520 billion per year. It is expected to grow by almost 10 per cent annually to over $1 trillion by 2025.

E-commerce means, that’s right, packaging. Good packaging has some specific criteria to be met. It should be fit-for-purpose, protect the contents, optimise resources, and have a minimum carbon footprint. These can only be achieved through optimal design. The user-friendliness and the efficient material cycle are also crucial for environment-friendly packaging.

Choosing a cost effective environmentally friendly packaging solution that reflects your brand is key.

Accessories and Clothing Packaging Ideas To Use in 2023:

• Compostable Garment Bags. To ensure that your clothing pieces arrive without any wrinkles or

garment bag.

• Custom Tissue Paper.

• Compostable Mailers.

• Custom Tote Bags.

• Custom Boxes.

Corrugated cardboard and other forms of paper-based packaging are rightly regarded as being amongst the most environmentally friendly and sustainable.

“The phase out of single use plastic shopping bags was the first step towards an Aotearoa free of plastic pollution. [Today’s] announcement is further progress in achieving that vision," noted Green Party environment spokesperson Eugenie Sage.

“The phase out of plastic shopping bags showed how easily we can make changes at retail and household level to avoid plastic waste and do better for nature. We won’t miss these plastic items when they are gone either. With a bit of support and advice, switching to reusable products to replace these unnecessary plastics is easy.”

More information and guidance on the plastics being banned and alternatives that can be used can be found on the Ministry for the Environment’s website.

Good packaging has some specific criteria to be met. It should be fit-for-purpose, protect the contents, optimise resources, and have a minimum carbon footprint. These can only be achieved through optimal design.

BEE DEE BAGS X CASSAVA BAGS

Bee Dee Bags, in collaboration with Cassava Bags Australia, brings to the New Zealand market the perfect solution to remove plastic from your business.

Bee Dee Bags 100 percent plastic-free bag is made from cassava starch. Bee Dee Bags stock singlet bags, postal mailers, bin liner bags and pet waste bags.

Cassava is a root vegetable that is very similar to a potato. After the industrial process, Bee Dee Bags get a biofilm that does not contain plastic or microplastic as it is made from non-petroleum materials.

Cassava Bags will biodegrade naturally in the environment. It is instantly

dissolvable in water at temperatures of 80+ degrees Celsius and can also naturally decompose in cold water within three months. They encourage consumers to compost the bags. In landfills, it takes six months to biodegrade into Earth-friendly compost naturally.

You can customise the size, thickness and branding of the product. Bee Dee Bags invite you to become an eco-friendly business today.

For more information, call 0800 232 710 or visit www.beedeebags.co.nz

VERSATILE

WEAVING A FUTURE WITH BORNEO BAGS

McLaren was a science teacher that left New Zealand to teach on the tropical island of Borneo for ten years, where it was impossible not to be distressed by the plight of the indigenous tribe. The Penan people struggled as the rainforest was felled and palm oil plantations took over. McLaren trekked to the island's interior, lived with the Penan people, and decided that she wanted to do more than supply toothbrushes, glasses and medicine in her privileged position.

“I wanted to help them to help themselves, to create something sustainable for their future, and there the gem of the idea, selling their beautiful craft, was born,” said McLaren.

McLaren has helped set up two charities funded by selling handwoven products and artefacts for the people of Borneo. Borneo Bags, however, was founded in New Zealand in 2020;

lockdown provided time to consider how a brand on the other side of the globe would sell as successfully as it does in Asia.

The bags are hand woven in Borneo, in the weavers' homes. Families often get together and catch up with news and gossip while their children play and look after each other. Made from rattan, a jungle vine that can be stripped and treated into a flexible fibre in three months and pallet strapping, a recyclable polypropylene that is colourful, waterproof and durable.

McLaren has always been experimental with her clothing, not afraid to mix colours, the classic with the traditional, and push the envelope. Even though she is a science teacher, art and design were her favourite past times and the subjects in which she received the highest grades. Her parents encouraged the pursuit of a scientific career, and she has loved being a teacher while nurturing artistic

Apparel Magazine sat down with Jacky McLaren who founded Borneo Bags to talk about their journey.

tendencies on the side.

To sell Borneo Bags on the western market, McLaren designed contemporary items in colours and styles that fit with classic and worldleading fashion innovators. The Borneo Bag team consists of McLaren herself, her two daughters and their three toddlers. “Some members of the team are more productive than others!”

The design process varies, sometimes the weavers come up with their ideas and ask for McLaren’s opinion or she will suggest colour combinations and ideas to them.

“The range of styles is limited only by our imagination; the weavers are capable of creating almost anything from one-off, bespoke items to supplying a large corporation with products fashioned in their company's colours.”

McLaren’s personal connection to the weavers spans nearly two decades, and she has been able to change the lives of multiple generations. A family recently

told her that Borneo Bag purchases over lockdown enabled them to build a new longhouse to replace their rotting one. “I will be staying in it with them shortly. How wonderful is that?"

Borneo Bags has plenty of future plans. McLaren is continually looking for retailers in New Zealand and overseas. They have also just opened up in Australia. The weavers had never been to a post office until three months ago.

Now, they can send a bag anywhere in the world, which is precisely the type of empowerment McLaren is after. As a social enterprise, the business does not have the funds to manage heavy online advertising. Most of the sales occur in physical retailers, at the markets or from McLaren’s home, but the online store is slowly ticking over sales.

For more information or to become a stockist, visit www.borneobags.com.

The range of styles is limited only by our imagination; the weavers are capable of creating almost anything from one-off, bespoke items to supplying a large corporation with products fashioned in their company's colours.

IS LOOKING FOR...

HEAD DESIGNER

Founded by Gosia Piatek in 2006, Kowtow is a seed-to-garment brand, made entirely from 100% Fairtrade certified organic cotton. Gosia believes that clothing is a vessel for a much bigger concept towards a healthier planet and a fairer world. Determined to create a positive environmental contribution, Kowtow works with nature to provide people with a natural and circular clothing solution, whilst working in sustainability and innovation, as a certified B Corp.

Email careers@kowtowclothing.com

Kowtow are currently searching for an experienced creative to lead the design and development of their inspiring seasonal collections. The new Head Designer will report to the Creative Director and take on the unique challenges of producing commercial designs that align with the sustainability and circular goals of this Wellington based business. Taking inspiration from art and nature, the design process at Kowtow takes 18 months from seed to garment, working with a single natural fibre and fine-tuning every detail such as the weight, weave, colour and texture. This is a career changing opportunity for a talented and ambitious product designer who can bring a fresh eye to the interpretation of the Kowtow aesthetic, and lead their talented design team through the next stage of growth planned for this successful global brand.

“The limitations of our ethos keeps us innovative. We don’t compromise on design, and embrace restrictions. This gives our garments a strong minimal identity, and we believe the simplicity of our clothing is the first step toward circularity.” Gosia Piatek, Kowtow Founder

IS LOOKING FOR...

SENIOR DESIGNER

Established in 1972, BONZ is a family-run fashion and homewares brand that specialises in creating elevated and opulent designs from rare and high-quality locally sourced materials. The products are all made at their Invercargill factory, and sold in their retail locations, selected global luxury retailers, and e-commerce store.

Contact Oscar Rodwell oscar@bonzgroup.co.nz

BONZ is looking for a Senior Designer to join their team that can help modernise and consolidate their apparel collections – leather and knitwear. You will work closely with their CEO and current design team and be accountable for the overall design, ensuring all styles are on point and successful in the market. You will also be working directly with the Senior Pattern Maker, signing off on the fit of all garments, so a hands-on technical background is a must.

The factory is based in Invercargill, and their head office is in Queenstown. For this role, BONZ is open to a remote working situation that could include trips to the factory monthly.

THE PRIMARY RESPONSIBILITIES

• Leading the overall product design and point of view, ensuring that the BONZ brand is represented within the designs

• Honouring the brand path and also bringing in a fresh perspective

• Driving design and development critical path to ensure timelines are met

• Research and select fabric prints and colours

• Presenting designs and fabrics to the design team and management

• Competitor research & benchmarking

• All development hand-over to Pattern Maker & Sample Machinist

• Sign off of all garments before proceeding to bulk production

• Ensuring style and fit of garments are relevant to all sizes offered

• Ensuring garments are finished to premium quality while maintaining cost margins

• Leading the Product Development team to ensure the quality of sizing, fit and finish are consistently achieved

DESIRED EXPERIENCE

• Experience as a Senior Designer, including team management

• Financial acumen for range budgets and targets

• Design experience with luxury garments and passionate about fit.

• Ability to brief Pattern Maker and Sample Machinist on developments, including garment finish

• A thorough understanding of textiles, garment construction and applications

• Experience using ERP systems

• High level of organisational skills and ability to work across the full life cycle of design

• Print and Pattern experience is a plus

COMPENSATION

• The successful candidate will enjoy a competitive compensation package which may include short and/or longterm incentives and merchandise discounts.

FASHION APPAREL PATTERN MAKER

Start 2023 with an exciting new job working with NZ Designed and Made Clothing. Join our workroom, where every day is an exciting challenge to use your creative and technical craft to produce top quality fashion patterns.

Contact Sue Bailey - Owner / Manager sue@patternpotentials.co.nz

Are you that person that has a passion for their work, who is a perfectionist that dots ‘I’s and crosses ‘T’s with their accurate quality finishing?

We are looking for a pattern maker with all, or some of the qualifications and experience listed below.

Taking on and training the right design school graduate with a strong future vison for the trade that aligns with ours is a possibility we would look at.

THE TECHNIQUES WE ARE SEEKING:

• Experienced CAD operator

• Able to digitize and grade

• Can transform a block into a new style from a brief

• Confidence to apply alterations as specified

• Garment fitting experience; transferring adjustments back to the patterns

A sound understanding of garment construction, the cutting and manufacturing process including machinery would be part of the knowledge you carry.

The above attributes would need to come together to produce simple, clear manufacturing specification sheets to work alongside patterns produced.

Our sunny modern fresh workroom, with up-to-date plotters, card cutters and CAD system, presents a professional working environment.

We offer ongoing training and development as we strive towards commitment to our customers with our hands on personal approach.

This full time 40 hour position, with an early finish Friday, and a shutdown period over Christmas, can offer a great work experience to the right energetic, motivated, committed person.

We are based in the Waikato, the Golden Triangle of the North Island, where there is much to do with beautiful river walks, cycle tracks, great shopping and lakes and beaches a short drive away.

If you have the attributes we need, and you are looking for a new exciting outlet to use your skills please get in touch and tell me how you can contribute to our team.

Trends From Around The World Gen Z

Gen Z wields a spending power of $360bn, more than double the estimate made three years ago.

While disrupting gender boundaries and striving to create meaningful change may unite this cohort, the 25-year-olds and under in the US are very different from those in China. So we've outlined the global nuances across consumer habits and fashion trends to help retailers claim a stake in this accelerating market and reinforce local strategies.

US CONSUMER HABITS

The impact of societywide uncertainty from growing up in the shadow of 9/11, the Great Recession, and the pandemic makes mental health a priority for American Gen Z, and 71 percent favor brands that recognize this within their marketing. In addition, while 70 percent think brands should take more responsibility for

fighting climate change, they are divided in their response to paying more for sustainability, with half of the respondents stating price is a concerning factor.

Retailers should tap into thrift culture to appeal to the price-conscious younger audiences’ interest in circular and luxury goods. Kering opted for this strategy last year, acquiring a stake in resale platform Vestiare Collective. With community at the heart of this demographic, brands should build on this in order to engage them authentically. Bubble Skincare engages 10,000 Gen Z consumers to guide its brand direction, with every product tested by at least 50 before launch. The metaverse is another opportunity to foster community growth with at least 40 percent of Gen Z customers having purchased apparel and

accessories for their avatars. Recognizing its importance, Walmart has recently joined Roblox.

MAJOR INFLUENCES

With Hot Girl Summer over, Gen Zers across social media welcome the return of fall. Trends that the generation once cringed at or branded basic are being embraced, such as cozy, Gilmore Girl aesthetics, Ugg boots and Pumpkin Spice Lattes. Searches for ‘fall fits’ on Pinterest have grown 300 percent YoY –TikTok spotlighting chunky knits and dark tartan skirts speaks to this transition.

Gen Zers are cultivating grunge influences for a Sad Boy/Girl Fall. This movement coincides with the return of Indie Sleaze and the Teenage Dirtbag TikTok trend, sparking interest in slouchy denim, graphic tees and knitted vests. Brands popular with

this generation include Abercrombie & Fitch, which has experienced a resurgence, Heaven by Marc Jacobs, UNIQLO, Hollister and Crocs.

US TOP MOVING TRENDS

TikTok trends are aiding the sale of products that fit within these viral aesthetics. ‘Fairy costume’ and ‘fairy outfit’ were in the top five Pinterest searches for US Gen Zers over the past three months, boosted by the approach to Halloween. At SHEIN, ROMWE designed into a Fairycore range, which experienced rapid full price sell outs across its accessories, skirts and halter tops. Another popular aesthetic on TikTok that retailers should promote for this customer is The Downtown Girl. This look is made up of trench coats, knitted outerwear, shackets and loafers, which have seen

UK CONSUMER HABITS

A cohort that strives to live up to its environmentally-conscious reputation, mean ethical practices and eco-friendly attributes are still a focus for purchasing decisions. With price not a defining factor, many are turning to buy-now-pay-later schemes, with 42 percent using the payment scheme last year in the UK to invest

in higher ticket items. However, the disparity within tribes also sees many cave to online social pressures. A recent study by ThredUp revealed one in three Gen Zers admits to feeling addicted to fast fashion, but that two in three aspire to buy more second-hand clothes.

Also dubbed the “Metaverse Generation” by aurora, its recent study found that 60 percent of current users in the UK are Gen Zers who spend over eight hours online daily. Stemming from gaming communities such as Roblox, retailers use these platforms to enter the space, attracting new, younger consumers to their brand. Kickers recently launched its back-to-school campaign on Roblox, which enables gamers to try on footwear, and saw ten million interactions and 8.5 million try-ons.

MAJOR INFLUENCES

Love Island‘s partnership with eBay this summer shook up the second-hand market, with the platform reporting a 700 percent increase in searches for ‘pre-loved fashion.' Already synonymous with platforms like Depop, where 90 percent of its 30 million users are under 26, Gen Zers are fueling a resale overhaul leading brands, including PrettyLittleThing, to launch in the space. It is also looking likely that boohoo will follow suit.

TikTok brands are changing how Gen Z shop. Thanks to ‘it’ girl influencer Matilda Djerf, whose style has already caused #matildadjerfstyle to reach 50 million views on TikTok, Scandinavian themes will be a major source of styling inspiration this fall. Searches on Pinterest for Stockholm fashion have already grown 80 percent MoM in the UK as we head into fall, with trench coats and knee-high boots both featuring in the top 15 searches.

UK TOP MOVING TRENDS

Feeding into the Scandi aesthetic, tailored trousers and basic items, including white tanks, saw good SKU movement across Zara, Selfridges and Abercrombie & Fitch, while UNIQLO capitalized on its viral TikTok bag, which has been replenished in black four times since June. In menswear, Blokecore remains important, particularly in the lead up to the FIFA World Cup.

White Tanks & Tailored Trousers

AUSTRALIA

CONSUMER HABITS

Gen Z, which makes up 18 percent of the population in Australia, is underpinned by strong social and environmental values. 53 percent are uncertain about the future, with climate change and racism being their top concerns that, in turn, impact their purchasing. Studies show they are willing to pay more for sustainable, femaleowned, or Black-owned brands. Despite their stance on serious issues, they also expect an element of fun and playfulness, with 52 percent ready to spend more on brands that have a sense of humor.

Ecommerce is the primary channel, with Gen Zers having spent $282 a week online last year, boosted by Australia’s continued lockdowns. Additionally, 77 percent have already engaged in metaverse activities, mainly online gaming, making future Web 3.0 strategies necessary to engage this consumer. That said, brick-and-mortar will still be significant.

53 percent revalue IRL interactions postpandemic, underscoring the opportunities for physical and digital integration through retail experiences.

MAJOR INFLUENCES

The recent Netflix reboot of Heartbreak High is quickly becoming Down Under’s answer to Euphoria, giving Aussie Gen Z style global status. The show spotlights genderfluid fashion, depicting a diverse group of teens donning Australian surf and skate labels meshed with local cult fashion brands, including Butter Goods, Double Rainbouu, Dyspnea and Alice McCall. Band T-shirts are also incorporated, giving a nod to both current and nostalgic homegrown acts, such as Kylie Minogue, Magic Dirt, Dune Rats and

TikTok Trending & Blokecore

sell out activity at & Other Stories and H&M. Fairycore & Trench Coats

Cargos & Knitted Vests

Baker Boy.

Music will be essential in building trend stories for this demographic, as many have come of age amid COVID, creating pent-up demand to attend festivals. Over the past three months, ‘summer outfits,’ and ‘music festival outfits’ saw the highest growth in search volume on Pinterest for those under 24 years of age. Searches for ‘Billie Eilish concert outfits’ leaped 200 percent MoM as the musician toured Australia for the first time in September.

AUSTRALIA TOP MOVING TRENDS

As the region’s summer festival season approaches, men’s short-sleeved printed shirts are moving well at SHEIN, Glue and Zara. Preppy trends are also influential in this space, with bomber jackets, branding and logos experiencing full price sell outs. The parachute pant is set to become a breakout trend, with Australiasian Pinterest searches showing a weekly double-digit increase. A Dion Lee style at David Jones, retailing at AUD $650, sold out in a majority of sizes at full price in under a month, while more than ten new styles at SHEIN are out of stock.

Barbiecore & Bomber Jackets

Parachute Pants & Cargo Pants CHINA

CONSUMER HABITS

Unlike their European and US peers growing up in the aftermath of the global financial crisis, Chinese Gen Z’ers have only known economic growth up until the pandemic. This is reflected in their spending habits, with the demographic reportedly dubbed “the moonlight clan” due to their ability to spend their entire monthly salary within a lunar cycle. Despite this, they are discerning buyers, with only 11 percent describing themselves as “excessive shoppers,” as 70 percent state they will shop around and evaluate their needs before making a purchase.

Another defining factor separating this consumer is its uptake of livestream shopping, a channel other regions are lagging in. It makes up 10 percent of China’s total ecommerce market, allowing influencers and key opinion leaders (KOLs) to sell directly to their audience. This platform is essential for retailers catering to this consumer as well as

navigating the labyrinth of Chinese social media such as WeChat, Weibo, Xiaohongshu and Douyin. However, authenticity is key, with 63 percent of Gen Z wanting overseas fashion brands to establish a real emotional connection with consumers.

MAJOR INFLUENCES

According to Vogue Business, Gen Z doesn’t worship brands, and their loyalty is rare. These customers differ from their parent’s generation, interested more in local brands and embracing their culture than Western fashion trends and labels. The notion of China Chic – described as products that include “Chinese national elements,” those with “Chinese feelings and cultural confidence,” or items that have an “Oriental aesthetic” – is expanding. This is an indicator that brands should be building up a deep understanding of the history of this region and looking at what’s resonating with consumers, while avoiding cultural appropriation at all costs. A rising patriotism towards local brands has catapulted sportswear labels like Anta Sports Products Ltd, Li Ning Co and Hongxing Erke onto Gen Z’s radar. This consumer group is still willing to pay for western brands, but they will spend on quality and design over brand names and reliance on international status. Nostalgia is also key to winning over this consumer. 77 percent of Chinese consumers enjoy products that stir up past memories, which have been of particular comfort during the pandemic, creating collaboration and licensing opportunities for celebrated snack foods and cartoon characters.

CHINA TOP MOVING TRENDS

China Chic has been named one of the top ten lifestyle trends in 2022 by Xiaohongshu, with younger

audiences taking interest in cultural garments.

This has helped sell outs of items with decorative patterns, embellishments and modernized traditional garments, such as Cheongsam dresses and tops. Gender fluid themes including relaxed silhouettes and suiting have supported sales activity at western brands.

Parachute Pants & Cheongsam Collars

Wide-Leg Trousers & Gender Fluidity

SWEDEN

CONSUMER HABITS

Sustainability is the focus across Scandinavian Gen Zers. A survey conducted for the Schibsted Future Report in Sweden found that 20 percent of Gen Z prefer second-hand clothes versus just 6 percent of millennials. They also ranked the lowest for buying multiple items and returning them, a habit that has seen retailers like Bootz introduce a ‘Fair Use’ policy that bans consumers who return too often.

However, they remain the most tech-savvy of generations, with 60 percent of the group actively using ecommerce platforms to purchase clothing and accessories. Businesses are tapping into their environmental values and online presence, with app launches like Popswap, in partnership with the Swedish Fashion Council, that aim to roll out free courses with features from fashion and environmental experts. This sentiment transpires across markets, including at Copenhagen Fashion Week, which is banning fur from the start of next year.

MAJOR INFLUENCES

While Matilda Djerf causes a global infatuation with Stockholm style, interestingly, searches on Pinterest among Gen Z in Sweden have seen a YoY increase of over 10,000 as they tap into the homegrown trend. Feeding into this, a step change into

fall sees searches up for cult footwear brand UGG, as well as for puffer jackets. For the luxury Gen Z consumer, take note of the Spring 2023 season at Copenhagen Fashion Week, which showcased more menswear labels than ever before, with a particular emphasis on genderless labels. New brands, including P.L.N., challenged the normcore Scandinavian aesthetic, introducing gothic themes, a trend that will soon be trickling down into the mass market.

SWEDEN TOP MOVING TRENDS

The cargo has certified itself as a global phenomenon seeing sell outs at Stradivarius in Sweden. Interestingly, across retailers, descriptions have opted to use ‘parachute’ to describe the shape. For menswear, The North Face dominates top movers as Gorpcore persists, with sell outs on two colorways of its padded bum bag.

Parachute Pants & Gorpcore

SPAIN

CONSUMER HABITS

Gen Z influencers carry a lot of power over their generation, with under 25s preferring to seek advice from young, like-minded individuals like themselves versus celebrity-endorsed promotional tools. Accounting for 15 percent of the Spanish population, Gen Zers are more selfaware of their anxieties, placing more importance on wellbeing. Famous singer and influencer J.Balvin recently launched Oye, a Creative Wellness App for Gen Z, encouraging discussions on mental health and helping unleash their creativity.

MAJOR INFLUENCES

The sporting world is a major source of influence in the Spanish community. Cristiano Ronaldo remains the most-followed Instagram account globally, but Lionel Messi has more Spanish followers in Spain. Besides football, Rafael Nadal and, more recently, Carlos Alcaraz has sustained popularity in tennis, with growing interest in padel tennis amongst the population.

Spanish influencers like Rosalía and Bad Bunny have big a Gen Z following in Spain, spearheading trends like Bikercore in both women’s and men’s wear and challenging gender norms with gender fluid style and baggy fits. While established Spanish brands like Pull&Bear remain an important go-to for trends, the younger cohort is attempting to differentiate themselves from other generations, backing newer brands like Bimba Y Lola.

SPAIN TOP MOVING TRENDS

Searches for cargo pants have seen a 60 percent increase MoM amongst Gen Zers on Pinterest, with majority sell outs tracked across nine retailers, noting that Frankie Shop’s €225 style has sold out in all three colorways at Net-a-Porter. Cargos

& Blazers

Skorts & Trench Coats

Western Aesthetic & Preppy

ZALANDO PARTNERS WITH AOTEAROA’S ALL IS FOR ALL

Zalando, a leading European online fashion shopping platform with over 49 million customers across 25 countries, has partnered with All is for All for the launch of its adaptive fashion collection and campaign. All is for All is an Aotearoa New Zealand-based creative and advisory agency, established and run entirely by disabled people.

From October, Zalando customers will be able to shop for in-house designed affordable adaptive fashion, specifically for people with sensory disabilities, who use wheelchairs or have prosthetic limbs. While adaptive fashion is often sold at a premium. Zalando’s Private Label range is designed to offer accessible and stylish adaptive fashion across price and size in one place.

The wider collection, which includes adaptive fashion trailblazer Tommy Hilfiger, was curated by Zalando with support from All is for All.

The launch is supported by a creative campaign that places disability culture at its centre, celebrating the power, style, passion and experiences of a community often highlighted for its deficits.

All is for All’s disabled communications experts provided Zalando’s design, buying, media and campaign teams with strategic advice and supported Zalando to understand disability culture

and authentic disability community engagement.

“The price of adaptive fashion is often a barrier for our community, so it was very important to help change this. Customers who purchase adaptive fashion on Zalando will do so at the same price as the in-house brand’s nonadaptive collections. This is a landmark step towards increasing the broader accessibility of adaptive fashion for the global community.

Beyond its functional impacts, disability is a community, a shared lived experience, something to be understood, appreciated more deeply by non-disabled people and embraced. We supported Zalando as partners through this entire journey and in designing the positioning and messaging of this campaign. We are so proud of the way it portrays disabled people, and we are grateful for Zalando’s authentic partnership with us.” said Grace Stratton, All is for All Director.

“Our vision is to be the starting

point for fashion that is welcoming to everyone. We see a gap in the fashion market — finding fashionable adaptive clothing still represents a challenge for disabled people. By launching adaptive collections under our Private Labels and introducing the Tommy Hilfiger Adaptive collection to our customers, we hope to contribute to solving this challenge and offer a varied selection of stylish adaptive fashion across price and size in one place. We want to learn from the disabled community and inspire our partners so that together we can continue building a delightful experience for our disabled customers and making fashion even more inclusive.” said Sara Diez, VP of Women’s and Private Label at Zalando.

All is for All launched in 2019 and has since grown to support diverse clients, including Te Pūkenga (as part of the appointed Clemenger collective), The ICONIC, and Global Brands Group.

For more information, visit www.allisforall.com

A drive above

from$169/

week *

MINUTES WITH

Amanda Moir Store Director

Fashion enthusiast and store director Amanda Moir is stocking all your spring/ summer goods for the hot season. Drawn to the wide world of fashion from a young age, Moir finds inspiration in the creativity that clothing can offer each unique individual. With upmarket brands, edgy streetwear, and beach-vibe casual clothing, Moir has four stores in Kelburn and Wellington areas bursting with your newest goto items this season.

From starting as an office junior at a local advertising, PR, and banking company, Moir learned the right skills to begin her business in the fashion industry. Vintage, grunge, punk – various styles have always intrigued Moir. After loving the variety of looks and vibes that clothing offers, she seized an opportunity to take a big step into the industry. Over 20 years ago, with an 18-month-old daughter and full-time work not on the cards, Moir took her place in a small store down an alleyway in Upper Hutt. After purchasing this preloved space from a friend, the store was repainted and enhanced, giving a new look and vibe. The next five years saw Moir moving three times into bigger stores and adding new clothing along the way, generating a mix of fashion, including accessories and giftware.

Upper Hutt was the ideal location because few clothing stores catered to younger and edgier customers, and

it desperately needed more choices. Kelburn offered an opportunity to grow The Vogue Store brand full of labels. Moir purchased Cerise Clothing in Kelburn, transforming it into another The Vogue Store. Afterwards, she created a younger, cooler streetwear store called Wild Rose in Upper Hutt. Soon after, Revisit was a “no-brainer” for Moir.

“Kelburn and Upper Hutt both stock a few different labels each, which gives them both a point of difference,” said Moir. The Vogue Stores provide upmarket styles and are blossoming with loved brands, each store holding its beauty and ambience essential for customers to enjoy the experience of shopping at chain stores. Wild Rose is edgy in its form, with unisex clothing appealing to the casual vibe feel. Revisit creates a distinct appeal by having clearance items from previous seasons, allowing customers to find unique pieces at great prices.

Moir prides herself on having a

family that helps to run their business. Ashleigh, her daughter, is the manager and buyer for Wild Rose; Moir’s son works as IT; and Moir’s husband, Todd, works on store interiors. Moir loves how fantastic it is to have a family-run business that supports and provides for its community. “It is a true family business.”

After COVID, the world of retail has undergone a significant adjustment. Competition has increased, keeping up with fast-paced trends. Moir understands the hard work of entering this industry and advises those willing to get involved, listen, know their customers, and grow slowly.

Moir stocks a mix of New Zealand designers and overseas labels. Some exciting labels and brands include; Curate, Jellicoe, Loobies Story, Verge, Yarra Trail, Minx, Madly Sweetly, Seduce, Stolen Girlfriends, RPM, Federation, Huffer, Mink Pink, and Lee. Her customers in all of her stores range from 18 to 80 years old.

RACHEL BROWN, NIKKOU

Buyer at fashion and apparel store Nikkou, Rachel Brown has been working in the fashion industry since she was just 18 years old. Coming from a background of Visual Merchandising across a multitude of brands, Brown started at Nikkou in February of 2022 when she was taken under the wing of Founder Tiffany Cooper to learn the ropes as a buyer.

Nikkou has two storesCasuarina and Brisbane, Australia. Owner Cooper had a goal to curate a space for women of all shapes and sizes, offering an array of Australasian female led brands. Nikkou means sunlight in Japanese, and the stores are filled with products curated to bring sunshine into customers' lives.

Brown is also Store Manager in Brisbane, giving her personal and direct insight into what the Nikkou customer wants. As a buyer, Brown wants anyone who comes into Nikkou stores, no matter their age, shape, size or gender, to feel welcome, comfortable, and confident that there will be something special for them to take home. The store caters to women aged from 16 to 80 and aims to make anyone who puts their clothing on feel beautiful, confident and empowered.

Nikkou stocks Australian and New Zealand fashion labels led by women. When curating a portfolio of designers, Brown looks for unique, sustainable, diverse and good quality garments that are versatile and suit a variety of body shapes/sizes.

“We want to support women kickstarting their creative dreams, and it is important to us that we offer sustainable, classic pieces which our customers will have in their wardrobes forever.”

Sustainability is in focus for Brown as the Nikkou team has noticed a definitive shift in consumer values. Customers want information about where clothing is made, who has made it, how sustainable the materials and process are, and how sustainably the brand operates as a whole. Shopping and supporting local has been a longstanding value of Nikkou’s, meaning little adjustment has been needed in their buying but there have been lessons in how information is shared with the customers and community.

Brands at Nikkou reflect the coastal location of the flagship store in Casuarina, where life is carefree and slow. The boutique is located right on the beach, so it is important during

warmer months for Brown to keep the store flush with pieces that are easy to wear and versatile for the beach goer. However, Nikkou also follows the normal seasonal trends of summer/autumn/ winter/spring and stocks a variety of transeasonal and warmer pieces, alongside swimwear and accessories for the Euro-summer customer to stay stocked up and stylish on an overseas trip.

Brown buys in smaller capsules for most brands, but finds this can depend on the buy, what styles are on offer and how well she sees the styles relaying to Nikkou’s in-store customer.

“Tiff [Cooper] always tells us girls when making selects - ‘if it’s not a hell yes, it’s a hell no’ - and I use that saying as bible when travelling to showings.”

Brown looks to stock a variety of price points - from $80-500. Her background in visual merchandising allows her to mix a variety of brands and price points which tie together, building outfits for in-store visual merchandising and shooting content for social media. The buyer loves styling high-end pieces

from brands like St Agni, with good quality affordable basics from brands such as Assembly the Label. This assists customers in building a timeless, seasonal wardrobe.

Stocking collections gives brands an opportunity to grow their audience in an intimate setting, outside of markets such as mass department stores. After two years of pandemic restrictions, customers are seeking a personalised shopping experience again and drawing these customers in store to try on a variety of brands has created a community of Nikkou customers that Brown now considers more friends than acquaintances.

“We all learn from one another - look out for one another. I am grateful to have made the business/customer relationships that I have since starting here at Nikkou.”

Like all businesses, the pandemic forced Nikkou to pivot and approach business from new angles. Connecting with wholesalers and their customer community has always been at the forefront of the Nikkou team's mind

and Brown felt lucky to have options like virtual showings, and social media to continue sharing the excitement of the business in a personable way with customers.

This season, and in upcoming collections, Brown is seeing lots of sustainable material choices such as cotton and linen. Lots of colour is coming through and there has been a resurgence of crochet across all of Nikkou’s brands - which the buyer “will definitely be taking home.” Pieces that aren’t versatile or easy to wear dressed up or down are on the decline as customers look for garments that are effortless, relaxed and easy to style for various occasions.

If you are keen to join the Nikkou portfolio, reach out to the team at wholesale@nikkoustore.com.

“Feel free to share any recent catalogues, line sheets and share with us your brand’s journey! We love to get personal on these things!”

Shop Nikkou’s fashion and homewares in store in Casualina and Brisbane or shop online at nikkoustore.com

DISCOVER CEREMONIAL

Meadowlark jewellery represents a story about love and art, making itself the very definition of bespoke creativity. Founders Claire Hammon and Greg Fromont devote themselves to flawless quality and excellent service, handcrafting jewellery symbolic of all the precious moments we share with objects we have forever. Aware of the ways in which our environment is cared for, Meadowlark works delicately not to overproduce and to reuse and recycle. With a passion for creating and connecting, Hammon and Fromont depict eternal beauty and design precision when crafting that piece within anyone's love story.

“A

s artists, we value freedom of selfexpression,” states Hammon and Fromont, knowing that there are no rules when it comes to designing rings that mark something special. Every piece of Meadowlark design is catered towards one’s individual style, memories, beliefs, and desires. Once the client has selected their preferred design, Meadowlark bestows a group of dedicated in-house jewellers to start the crafting process and bring your ideas to life.

The Ceremonial Collection is constructed from 9ct, 14ct, and 18ct gold and platinum with rhodium plating avoided, granting warmer tones the opportunity to shine. This collection includes popular ceremonial styles such as the Hex Engagement Ring, which demonstrates a round stone circled by a hexagon array of diamonds; the Signature 5 Stone Ring, a round centrepiece stone bordered by two

ascending stones on either side; and the Aphrodite Ring, complete with a round stone cradled by six claws, drawing on Meadowlark's best-selling Vita style. Enchanting architecture and artwork inspired Hammon and Fromont to create four breathtaking new designs, adding to the Ceremonial Collection. Among the remarkable new pieces is The Hilma Ring, emerging with a round finish, a princess cut, and a baguette stone elevated by a square claw; the Anges Ring making a classic statement with subtle geometric lines and low setting; and the Stella Ring emphasises balance in a piece of jewellery, delicately featuring two baguettes book-ended by round stones.

Hammon and Fromont adhere to the brilliance of a mesmerising diamond ring. There is hardly any other gemstone that shines like a diamond. “The play of light is forever captivating,” said Hammon, as even the black diamond consistently astonishes clients. These diamonds are white diamonds

that have been exposed to heat and pressure. Black diamonds are precious in contrast to colourless stones, creating a striking singularity with their own distinctive colour.

Proudly introducing a selection of completely traceable, lab-grown solitaire diamonds to its bespoke offering, Meadowlark strives to carefully minimise environmental damage. Hammon and Fromont emphasise the importance of lab-grown gemstones, demonstrating how identical they are to those mined underground. In many ways, they are purer with no dirt or damage, show fewer signs of strain in their structure, and have fewer inclusions.

With meaningful accents sparkling with any of your desires, Meadowlark is made to order, ready with skilled artisans to create any bespoke memory. Whatever brings one towards seizing a moment harnessed in shimmering stone, Meadowlark is prepared to continue that story.

THE ABOUT SKINNY JEANS Truth

TikTok declared skinny jeans are over. But what can Retail Intelligence tell us?

The question on every denim retailer's mind. Are skinny jeans really dead? To find an answer, we investigated shifts in men's and women's denim arrivals, trends and communications to highlight what designs are successful and provide runway and pure play denim brand direction for future collections.

WHAT’S ON THE DECLINE?

1. Arrivals

Men’s jean arrivals that landed January 1 – July 31, 2022 were down 33 percent YoY, while womenswear jean arrivals were up slightly YoY, by 2 percent – thanks to an increase in wideleg and flared silhouettes of 53 percent and 85 percent YoY, respectively. Skinny silhouettes made up the highest percentage of 2021’s jeans arrival assortment for both genders.

However, skinny jeans

experienced the most significant dip in arrivals compared to other fits during 2022, down 52 percent for men and 29 percent for women –becoming the second most assorted style, following slim in menswear and straight in womenswear. boohoo, boohooMAN, EXPRESS and River Island had the most significant dip in arrivals YoY. Despite reducing skinny jean arrivals, retailers are still dedicating a substantial proportion of their jeans assortment to skinny silhouettes as the shape has less trend standing and more core. (fig. 1)(fig.2)

2. Up-To-Date Trends

Of the skinny jeans retailing from January 1 –July 31, 2022, 25 percent of menswear and 21 percent of womenswear items also landed during the period. This compares to 2021’s skinny fit rate of newness

for men’s and womenswear of 48 percent and 26 percent, respectively, highlighting that menswear lines were previously more

reactive to newness and trends – landing bleached, exploded knee and cargo pocket detailing. Newness for this silhouette at

womenswear retailers only dipped 5pp YoY, demonstrating its more stable footing in the market – stirrup designs, coated looks and side slit details remained top moving details YoY. (fig.3)

3. Communications

Across the retailers analyzed, the number of emails that mentioned skinny jeans decreased 61 percent from January 1 – July 31, 2021 vs. 2022. Sending between 22-43 emails in which skinny jeans were referenced in 2021, Aeropostale, Bershka and H&M decreased this to just 7-10 in 2022. The peak time for communications annually was in January, with 22 emails mentioning the silhouette in 2022 and 34 in January 2021. (fig.4)

Subject lines in emails included, “Skinny jean stan? Here’s 50 percent OFF everyone’s faves” from EXPRESS, while skinny jeans were featured in Madewell’s email with the subject line “BESTSELLERS The best of the best.” Baggy jeans and Y2K-inspired styles have maintained email mentions since the beginning of 2022, indicating retailers are reacting to consumer demand for these trends instead.

assortment, respectively; however, light washes were most successful for menswear styles, while mid-wash versions moved well for womenswear. Greys were the next most sold out color for menswear at 11 percent, while blacks took the second most sold out spot for womenswear at 21 percent. Across womenswear styles, greys beat out whites with H&M having the most success.

Menswear

WHAT’S STILL WORKING?

Of the skinny jeans that landed between January 1 – July 31st, 2022 and sold out without a discount, blues made up 63 percent and 61 percent of the menswear and womenswear

River Island had the most success with its coated skinny jeans and bum sculpting versions for women. These styles came in a variety of colors and washes. In menswear, GapFlex at Gap was brought in and sold out without a discount – stretch is the main feature of this style. Uniqlo offers a skinny jean with removable drawstrings for easy adjustments.

Menswear

WHAT’S NEXT FOR SKINNY JEANS?

Runway Influences

The Wild Wild West theme has longevity through next year, backed by the Spring 2023 menswear runway – while double denim was featured across designers, Prada produced washed looks and Celine showcased unfinished hemlines. Clean lines at CARLOTA BARRERA were met with stitching designs and zipper detailing. For womenswear, Diesel’s Pre-Spring 2023 collection propelled Y2K into the future via skinny jeans – updates included contrast fishtails, cut-outs and cargo pockets.

PURE-PLAY BRAND

Inspiration

Frame offers the Jetset denim style for women, made without rivets, zippers, seams or pockets for elevated comfort during travel – as some consumers start to book vacations again, consider these updates for a comfortable alternative to leggings and jeggings – a style that has seen a 15 percent YoY decrease in arrivals. Re/ done has a 90s-inspired line of high-waisted ankle crop styles, while Grlfrnd has split hems.

For menswear, G-Star has Rackam 3D skinny jeans designed with shaped seams and zip pockets placed on the upper leg and thigh for an update to traditional cargo pocket placement – with the current cargo trend expected to remain significant into 2023 via the skater boy theme, consider these adjustments. The brand’s Airblaze skinny jean is inspired by the outdoors, where workwear meets fishing utility gear – as Gorpcore continues to gain consumer interest, these details will be essential for future skinny jean collections.

Womenswear

Womenswear

Anna Paterson is the Manager and Buyer at Uncommon, in The Tannery, Christchurch. After starting at the store as a part-timer while completing her Bachelor's Degree in Fashion Design and Technology, the owners entrusted Paterson to take over the store once she had graduated.

ANNA PATERSON, UNCOMMON

Uncommon believes that fashion should be fun and championing colour is Paterson’s go-to way to do this. As soon as you walk through the door or jump on their website it is evident. They love to stock both smaller New Zealand designers and larger commercial brands, which works well for their diverse customer base. Uncommon mostly stocks women’s clothing, but they also have a range of unisex T-shirts, hoodies and accessories. Paterson notes that it is also important to Uncommon that they stock products for a range of budgets, buying mostly mid-range designers with quality garments. Buying once and buying right.

As a more boutique store, Paterson considers this an advantage for designers as they only stock products that they truly love. In mass department stores the staff are not aware of every quaint detail that went into the purchasing of the item, instead, there is an added level of passion in smaller retail. When looking for designers Paterson seeks quality and a point of difference. She tends to stray from brands that have saturated the market, in the hopes of bringing something new to the table. While all the brands she buys might not necessarily have the same aesthetic, they work together in one way or another to be worn in an approachable way.

Paterson isn’t interested in stocking

‘gap fillers’, Uncommon have a welldeveloped brand identity that she stays true to. Only selecting brands that she can see growing at the store and being treasured. Most of Uncommon’s current brands sell in seasonal ranges, which means there is consistently new stock with different deliveries each month. However, this does not always mean following seasonal trends. While at times trends can be unavoidable, Paterson envisions pieces being cherished for years rather than seasons.

Sustainability has always been important to Uncommon, and Paterson notes that there are varying values when it comes to sustainable fashion and she tries to cater for as many as possible. Whether that be in the

production process like Rolla's and Neuw’s zero waste denim drying, or in recycled materials such as Dangerous Good's second-hand stones. Paterson notes that the most impact on the environment comes during the product's lifetime, not manufacturing, so she is focused on quality and care “No one-hit wonders around here.”

Moving forward, Paterson hopes to see a decline in ‘micro trends’ that are also terrible for the environment and is excited to see the colours of spring entering Uncommon - lots of Tomato Reds, Oranges and Green.

She is always open to hearing from new designers and can be contacted at anna@uncommonshop.co.nz

BE NOTICED THIS SUMMER

This Spring and Summer of 2022, exciting colours and bold yet classic eyewear are in the new range at Specsavers. Whatever accessories you are looking for this summer season, complete your look with an eye-catching pair of sunnies with the Specsavers statement-making frames, suitable for many occasions.

Among the new trend-setting styles in this collection are bold looks, large statements, and bursts of colour that give a refreshing look to your eyewear selection. With maxi vintage vibes, oversized frames are a bold feature to complete that summer look, while classic metal styles bring vibrant splashes of colour. To accommodate all face shapes, a rounded frame with a two-toned finish presents a seasonal uniqueness to those wanting a more retro look. Whether you’re searching

for a pair of large beach sunnies or glasses for your everyday wear, Specsavers has all the options for you. Design and Frame Manager, Yvy Nguyen, understands the current trends worldwide and has ensured that this collection is not falling behind. “With refresh launches from the likes of Alex Perry, Carla Zampatti, and Collette Dinnigan, this new Spring/Summer lineup really will offer something for everyone,” said Nguyen. Eyewear really is an accessory personal to every individual, to their tastes, to what

look they feel confident with. Nguyen emphasises this importance and how it is a fundamental part of creating these signature sunglasses.

In alternative ways to change up one’s look, coloured lenses are a subtle way of being bold, or for those who wish to be noticed, the chunky textures and frame designs are a statement for you. Everyday styling can connect you with the classic round frame, while other geometric shapes are an exciting way to change up your look.

LYCRA ANNOUNCES NEXT GENERATION BIO-DERIVED SPANDEX

An agreement between The Lycra Company and Qore has enabled the world’s first largescale commercial production of partially bio-derived spandex using Qira, the next generation 1,4-butanediol (BDO), as one of its main ingredients.

The result will be a Lycra in which 70 percent of the fibre content will be derived from annually renewable feedstock, reducing the carbon footprint of Lycra fibre by a potential 44 percent compared to equivalent product made from fossil-based resources.

Qira will be produced at Cargill’s biotechnology campus and corn refining operation in Eddyville, Iowa. The facility will commence operations in 2024. The first bio-derived Lycra fibre using Qira will then be produced at Lycra’s Singapore manufacturing

site, using feedstock from field corn grown by Iowa farmers.

A benefit of the bio-derived spandex for mills, brands and retailers is that there is no change in fibre performance, eliminating the need to re-engineer fabrics, patterns or processes.

The Lycra Company has been granted a patent for the process used to make renewable elastane from bio-derived BDO. The company is currently seeking commitments from brand and retail customers who are pursuing bioderived solutions for their apparel.

VR SHOWROOMS ELIMINATE PHYSICAL SAMPLES WITH

360-DEGREE VIEWING

Leading Japanese textile technology supplier Shima Seiki has teamed up with Tokyo-based telecommunications company KDDI Corporation to launch a high-tech tool that enables users to visualise garments from any angle, in 360 degrees, on various devices without the need for physical samples.

XR Mannequin for APEXFiz is a sales promotion package linking Shima Seiki’s APEXFiz design software for the apparel industry with KDDI’s cross-reality (XR) technology. This collaborative technology allows the creation and showcasing of digital catalogues with 3D virtual sample image data of garments designed on APEXFiz design software, 360-degree VR showrooms, and digitally extended stores.

The XR Mannequin realises virtual proposals at exhibitions and showroomstyle stores with no inventory and promotes user-friendly purchase experience on e-commerce sites.

Eventually, the technologists hope to add movement to the mannequin model, allowing customers to view high-resolution virtual sample fashion

shows on their own devices. Traditionally, the textile industry produces product samples in vast amounts in each of the planning and design stages - costing time and money, and generating enormous amounts of waste materials often disposed of

unnecessarily. The development of the XR Mannequin for APEXFiz allows users to view designs in a virtual sense rather than physical, reducing waste in the design process and reducing excess stock in stores while creating new sales opportunities.