Apparel Magazine | April 2018

$ 9.00

APRIL 2018 I VOL 51 I NO 04

VANCOUVER

FASHION WEEK pg.20

FREIGHT & WAREHOUSING pg.8 SECURITY pg.28

REALISTIC OR RUTHLESS

Dior

What does your exchange policy say about your brand?

We’ve all been there, in the changing room, trying on a dress or a pair of pants. You’re on the fence.

Internally asking yourself ‘does this look good?’ Then the retail assistant chimes in and insist on viewing you in said garment. “You’re beautiful! You look like Linda Evangelista! You’re a model!” Surely enough, one compliment after another, you are sold. A couple of days later, you try it on again and no you don’t look fantastic. It isn’t comfortable or fitting like you remember convincing yourself it was.

One of the most significant problems nowadays has nothing to do with the store, but a change of mind. The most common returns policy sets the bar high with a strict seven-day return or no deal. While others have a more relaxed 30-day policy. So, who’s right? As always, transparency is the winner!

REB Footwear offer exchanges on full priced items for seven days from the date of purchase, and do not offer refunds for change of mind. “The reason behind this policy is that we are a small company and stock can be limited so there can often be an opportunity cost in allowing returns for change of mind,” explained REB Footwear’s managing director Nicole SchoefischRebstock. “However, we try to be fair and flexible with our customers. Hence we offer exchanges within seven days of purchase. This decision and policy are very much in line with the majority of retailers around us that are targeting a similar demographic and customer base.” SchoefischRebstock added that they have never had any issues with this policy and most of their customers are business people who know they are an upcoming New Zealand brand and appreciate the reasoning behind their policy. “Sometimes people just want reassurance that if they go home and think the other pair they tried on was better, they can come back and swap. I think as long as your policy is clear from the outset, then consumers are happy.” When it comes to buying online, REB Footwear offers a full refund for whatever reason as long as the item is returned within two weeks and is unworn and in perfect condition.

RUBY has a great policy that is very flexible and fair to its customers and can be found clearly on their website.

Offering a refund or exchange on full priced items within 14 days through their website except for beauty products.

Discounted and sale items and items purchased with Laybuy can be returned for an exchange or online store credit, but cannot be returned for a refund. As always, Final Sale items are final. Their formalwear pieces are shipped with a DO NOT REMOVE tag, once this is removed the garment is no longer returnable.

Recently, I was scrolling through Kowtow’s website and fell in love with a red pair of pants. At the last second of checkout, I switched the red pants for a dress. The dress arrived, and with glee, I tried it on. It really didn’t suit me; I’m a pants kind of gal, what was I thinking! Kowtow’s returns were thankfully straightforward and effortless. As quickly as I had received the dress, I was presented with

CHAIRMAN

Peter Mitchell PUBLISHER Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com GENERAL MANAGER Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com STAFF WRITER

Mark Fullerton

Georgina Mckimm

Coralie Vissac ADVERTISING SALES Caroline Boe - caroline@reviewmags.com

2 I April 2018

the Stage Pant in red. Again, due to my eagerness – I had ordered the wrong size, and now I was in Canada at Vancouver Fashion Week. When I got back, I emailed returns, and sure enough, they were more than happy to switch them out for the correct size. When the right size arrived, I realised the model on the site was 177cm tall and I was a cool 186cm. Enough that the length was much too short. In the end, I was thrilled with my Merino Composure Cardigan in black and more loyal than ever.

(Sorry Kowtow, I’ll get it right one of these days! Shout out to Moya at Kowtow for a seamless multi-return experience.) When shopping online, my go-to is always Kowtow, and since this incident, it has only grown my consumer relationship with them.

Fearless shopping is the best kind, and it is in your best interest to have as few barriers to business as possible.

Check today that your policy can be found easily on your website and is clear and easy to read.

***

The UITIC Congress is just around the corner, stay tuned on our social channels and website for up to date information from the event.

See page 11 for more.

***

iD Dunedin Fashion Week is in the first week of May this year and pulls focus on the Emerging Designer Show.

During this, Apparel Magazine is proud to sponsor the Most Commercial Prize. Guest judges this year include; Karen Walker, Benny Castles from WORLD, and Maggie Hewitt from Maggie Marilyn.

***

A statue of a man and a woman stood looking at each other for hundreds of years. One day a wizard, feeling sorry for the statues, brought them to life for 30 minutes.

Right away, the two of them ran into some nearby bushes, and you could hear all kinds of strange sounds and giggling. After a while, they came out of the bushes.

The wizard said, “You have another 15 minutes left if you want to have another go.” The statues looked at each other, and the male statue said: “Ok, but this time you hold the pigeon, and I’ll poop on it.”

caitlan@reviewmags.com @NZAPPAREL

ON THE COVER:

Model: Becky Holwerda at 62 Models Beauty: Chanelle Van T Veen

SENIOR DESIGNER GRAPHIC DESIGNER ISSN 1171-2287

Raymund Sarmiento Ciaran Carroll

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2018 NZ Apparel Magazine.

By Marc Bohan Dior by Marc Bohan offers a delightful insight of the House of Dior’s archives.

Illustrated by beautiful photographs by Laziz Hamani along with well-written texts by fashion journalist Jérome Hanover, this book takes readers on a journey in Marc Bohan’s world of chic and glamour. A brilliant throwback to his 30 years of designing for the French House of elegance and sophistication.

Fashion Illustration in Britain: Society & The Seasons

By Amber Butchart

Britain’s dress history explained in a collection of what was once the ancestor of fashion photography, illustrations. Fashion historian Amber Butchart gives her readers more than two centuries of fashion plates and social context. This book explores the old days of fashion in Britain through the studies of illustration from the most influent fashion magazines.

True Fit: A Collected History of Denim

By Viktor Fredback and Frederick Ottoson

The tale of what is now a wardrobe staple element starts way back in the 1800s, where miners, farmers and factory workers wore denim jeans and overall as a protective, functional garment. This book takes you on an expedition in the history of denim through vintage ads, life stories and fashion photography. A musthave for all jeans enthusiasts.

Charles James: Portrait of an Unreasonable Man: Fame, Fashion, Art

By Michele Gerber Klein

The first biography of ambitious fashion designer Charles James tells the story of the one who according to Klein “set the standard for style in the western world” in the mid 20th century. This book is not only about the talent of the one who has initially pioneered the “New Look”, it also tells about his love for business and money and his poor friendship skills.

It will also take you through the glamorous Europe of the 1930’s and the vibrant 1940’s New York.

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SUSTAINABLE BAGS OUTLIV TRENDS CELEBRATING TEN YEARS OF RETAIL INNOVATION

Online Retailer New Zealand first launched because the team had great representation from New Zealand for the Online Retailer Sydney Conference & Expo. “The e-commerce industry in New Zealand suggested we should come over and provide local content and speakers,” said Online Retailer’s Charlotte Michalanney. “We worked very closely with Retail NZ and launched the event in 2014.”

This year, a highlight at Online Retailer New Zealand was Daniel Flynn from Thank You who started the show on a real high note. He spoke about how the Thank You story started, the challenges and success leaving everyone in the room feeling inspired and eager to continue a full day of learning.

Followed by Angus McDonald from Supercheap Auto who shared some great tips on how to match your omnichannel experience with customer expectations. He walked the audience through how to understand customer behaviour and what to do to keep up to pace with their changing demands across all channels of your business.

Sixteen speakers covered a number of topics including; keeping up with trends and making digital the DNA of your brand, marketing

automation, customer purchasing behaviour, digital strategy, personalising experiences, omnichannel behaviours and much more.

“Online Retailer Sydney 2018 is shaping up to be our biggest and best show yet,” said Michalanney.

“The team is working hard to innovate the show to deliver quality content, effective business technology solutions and an overall inspiring experience.”

Highlights of the upcoming Online Retailer Sydney event include expert speakers delivering insightful information in new ways, and a new line up of speakers from leading Australian and international brands. Not to be missed is a talk by co-founding executive of Netflix, Mitch Lowe. It has been ten years since Lowe has been to Australia and a lot has happened in the e-commerce landscape since then. Lowe will be sharing an inspiring story about how Netflix was created and giving our audience insight into how they disrupted their own business model and preserved a culture of innovation throughout the years. “We will then get a chance to hear a live interview with Mitch which will delve deeper into hot topics live AI, personalisation and subscription-based models.”

Online Retailer Sydney will be held from 25-26 July 2018 at the ICC Sydney. For more information or to buy your ticket now, visit www.onlineretailer.com.

CALL FOR ENTRIES FOR WOOLON AWARDS

Do you have a flair for design and a passion for wool? If so, the annual WoolOn Awards are for you!

The Awards will be held on 17-18 of August in Alexandra. One of Central Otago’s most iconic events, the awards celebrate wool’s incredible qualities as a natural fibre and the ways it can be used creatively in high-fashion garments.

Held over two nights, Friday’s First Look event offers a relaxing opportunity to experience the excitement of the catwalk. Saturday’s Rural Women New Zealand WoolOn Awards is WoolOn’s premier event.

Category and overall winners are announced during a spectacular catwalk and award show with guests enjoying local food, wine and entertainment.

This year’s awards promise to be bigger and bolder than ever with two new categories opened for Novice designers and Accessories. These categories offer new designers or experienced craftspeople who have never entered an awards show an opportunity to showcase their skills in a friendly and supportive environment.

Existing categories include; Streetwear, Avant-

4 I April 2018

Garde, Felted, Machined, Special Occasion, Collections, Hand-crafted and Under 23. All of which are expected to attract local, national and international designers as WoolOn builds upon the success our last year’s event. WoolOn is particularly keen to attract entries for both male and female fashion to further broaden the range of spectacular garments on show.

Each category winner receives $1000 in prize money, while our overall Supreme Award winner takes away a fantastic prize of $5000. Not only do the Awards offer contestants a platform to showcase their designs, but WoolOn is also offering designers who attend the event an opportunity to meet with judges post-awards to learn some tips that will help them advance their skills.

Get in quick as entry deadline has been extended. Tickets for the event will go on sale in June. Regular updates can be found on WoolOn’s Facebook page.

For more information and entry forms visit www. woolon.co.nz or email enquiries@woolon.co.nz.

Outliv launched in February and is still in the early stages of growing. Social media has been an excellent platform for founder Amy Conlon to develop her brand’s presence. Conlon started collecting quality used leather and denim jackets about 18 months ago and had a few design concepts in mind to transform them into bags. Outliv is about sustainability and Conlon wanted this to apply to her business as well.

“I took the time to plan and execute with a level of quality that is necessary. Full production started six months ago, and the Outliv e-commerce site launched at the end of February. With five bag styles available which span over both leather and denim, all products are made from recycled quality fabrics. Conlon added that no two bags are the same, making each piece unique, but also requires consistent attention to detail and quality in production.

Conlon trained at AUT with a BA in Fashion Technology then went on to study in London at Central Saint Martins College of Design and also at the London College of Fashion over CAD design, jewellery design, buying and merchandising, and various other leather informative courses.

Since starting Outliv Conlon has learned so much from her supply and production support team. “I have an amazing network of machinists who construct the bags for Outliv.” At the moment, production scales up to five staff for a short window and then it’s back to just Conlon. The name came from the concept that fabric should outlive one life, and not be so easily disregarded and disposed of.

Outliv has strong values around sustainability and is committed to recycling, supporting the local community of talent, and promoting positive change in the industry. Outliv donates a percentage of their profits to a charity or organisation that gives back to the environment.

Outliv has some exciting plans in the works for the future and is currently looking for stockists who see similarities in Outliv and their own company.

For more information visit www.outliv.co or to become a stockist email studio@outliv.co.

BEFORE THEY WERE FAMOUS

iD D U N E D I N EMERGING DESIGNER SHOW M AY 3 & 4, 2018 iD FA S H I O N.C O.N Z T I C K E TM A S T E R.C O.N Z

46 of the world’s best emerging designers in two incredible shows.

IMAGE: Lisa Liu, University of Technology Sydney apparelmagazine.co.nz

I5

WHAT FACEBOOK EXODUS?

UNIQUE. COLOURFUL. PARISIAN. Parisian have just launched a cameo collection named after the symbol that has accompanied their brand since its foundation in 1919, Fleur de Lis. Branded with the heritage Parisian font seen on the side of their iconic building in Myers Park, these limited-edition belts are a bit of something special.

Managing director, John Crompton was delighted to connect with two niche tanneries on his most recent trip to Italy. One of these has allowed for the development of this NABUCCO SUEDE belt, available in six colours that will add a complementary punch of colour to any creatively curated outfit. Parisian staunchly champions their local production, bringing these hides in from Italy and crafting them into beautiful belts in their Auckland workroom.

Designed initially with men in mind, many women’s stores have fallen in love with the finely textured suede and the selection of colours on offer – Antique Rose, Navy, Bordeaux, Sage, Saffron and Dusk.

More information, call 09 303 4129.

Since the recent panic of Facebook’s security and datahandling policies, the US Congress and the general public has shined a spotlight of intense scrutiny on founder and CEO Mark Zuckerberg. Despite this, Facebook managed to beat its expectations in the first quarter earning a total revenue of USD $11.97 billion as revealed by post-Cambridge Analytica. This is around USD $3 billion more than last year’s Q1.

“Despite facing important challenges, our community and business are off to a strong start in 2018,” added Zuckerberg.

“More than 2.2 billion people now use Facebook every month.

And more than 1.4 billion people

WHO’S SPEAKING?

Jane Lu Chief Executive Officer

25-26 July 2018 ICC Sydney, Darling Harbour

ONLINE RETAILER CONFERENCE & EXPO will bring to Sydney an exhilarating two days packed with the latest trends, tech and retail solutions led by the pioneers of innovation in the ecommerce, tech, digital and marketing space.

use it every day. Our business grew 49 percent year-over-year to $12 billion.”

Sheryl Sandberg, Facebook COO, explained that their ad revenue in Q1 grew 50 percent year-over-year, the global ad revenue was USD $10.7 billion, and was up 60 percent from last year and contributed to approximately 91 percent of the total ad revenue.

Earlier this year, mass users were ready for the great Facebook Exodus over the handover of consumer data – but it never happened. Daily active users grew a cool 260 million, 13 percent more compared to last year.

The future of Facebook is yet to be revealed as it prepares for Europe’s General Data Protection Regulation compliance.

Anna Lee Chief Operating Officer

Kelly Slessor CEO and Founder

AND MANY MORE… REGISTER NOW: ONLINERETAILER.COM

6 I April 2018

60+ SPEAKERS // 2 DAYS // 100+ SOLUTION PROVIDERS

The Business of Fashion Logistics DSL Logistics has been in business for 32 years and now has over 100 employees at three sites throughout Auckland. Through these sites, DSL process over 40,000 outwards picks per day as well as ensuring that inwards goods, and other value added jobs are kept within contracted client specified KPI’s. DSL Director John Widdows said that they are about to employ further staff and move into a fourth facility so that they can accommodate a large new customer. At the four sites, DSL offer three types of storage – bulk pallet storage, product in pick faces and hanging garment storage.

In using DSL as your 3PL partner you can allow them to concentrate on getting goods to your customers on time.

The client can then focus on looking after their core functions of product development, marketing and the sale of their range. DSL sub contract the delivery portion of the process to local couriers, and carefully monitor their delivery KPI’s to ensure the client is getting the best all round service possible. The 3PL process has the ability to save customers a lot of money in the delivery of their supply chain, and at DSL we have fantastic systems so that you can see the overall process live on our network.

Once goods are delivered to the DSL site they can notify customers by email that goods have arrived, and then at any time during the process, customers can see live where their inwards or outwards orders are, in DSL’s warehousing system. They can also obtain stock on hand records, product reconciliations, live KPI’s and on line POD’s for delivery of their product to their customer.

For all customers, DSL has contracted KPI’s in place for inwards and outwards processing times, order fulfilment and stock accuracy. These are all agreed prior to starting work for any given customer and are always available live on their web portal. These results are obtained directly from their database and cannot be changed as the times they receive and complete orders are

all timestamped in their warehouse management system.

DSL do not process manual orders, and work with clients to obtain files from their accounting system which they can load into the DSL warehouse management system to produce inwards and outwards pick files.

The software is written by one of our directors and things can be changed to accommodate different client requirements, as over the years DSL have found that no two companies work in the same way. Having control over the warehouse management system allows DSL to produce varying information on the website which can correspond to an individual clients’ requirements.

DSL provide services for all types and sizes of business.

They set up the system to suit the client and once this is completed correctly it allows the work to flow and is as efficient no matter what size of customer they are dealing with. DSL also offer a garment processing service as they run a steam tunnel, ironing stations and garment formers as part of their hanging garment service. They also specialise in Customs Clearance and can assist clients in working with established forwarders to move goods from overseas suppliers to Auckland.

For more information visit www.dsl.co.nz or call John Widdows on +64 9 255 2560.

Contact us now to discuss your needs.

Phone: +64 9 255 2560 I Mobile: 021 769 560 Email: john@dsl.co.nz I www.dsl.co.nz

8 I April 2018

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ethics and have been building our brand’s focus,” Greaves added. “Being ever more concerned with quality textiles, sometimes synthetic, sometimes natural.” These wellconsidered products are unique in their quality and design and will still be stylish wearable garments for years to come.

“This is changing the handwriting of fashion today.” This slow fashion is worn longer and retains its value over time because of its quality craftsmanship.

Slow fashion has been an all-encompassing commitment within the Liann Bellis brand, and while these goals are paramount, they recognise that they may not all be realised immediately. “These challenges only make for exciting times.”

The New Zealand label can be found in 23 boutiques across New Zealand and four in Australia. Liann Bellis’ forward season collection is titled Fusion and is a combination of silks, wools, corduroy, unbrushed cotton fleece, tencyl, a stretch mesh used for layering, and of course their knitwear. This is the first season they have used an ethical and sustainable company in China.

designer focus LIANN BELLIS The Liann Bellis customers are intelligent New Zealand women who are confident in who they are, having strong, unique and direct views. Designer Leanne Greaves explained that we all know that fashion is a reflection of what is going on in the world at the moment, and how this brings to light the need for new ideas. “It’s about the rhythm of the global fashion system which couldn’t be greater than it is right now; as we see the closure of many brands. If something’s in fashion, then it follows, that someday it will be out of fashion.”

With a pioneering spirit, Liann Bellis is a sustainable fashion brand that focuses on improving its environmental impact and ethical social aspects. The overall goal is to sustain possibilities for future generations where ever they may reside. “Being that the paradigms have shifted for the industry, regarding the way people consume and engage, we have gone back to zero with our

For more information email info@ liannbellis.co.nz or call 03 544 9580.

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10 I April 2018

• Reporting and Analysis

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JOAQUIM LEANDRO de MELO General Manager of CTCP – Portuguese Footwear Technological Centre, and Vice Present of the UITIC. CTCP and APICCAPS are the co-organisers of the 20th edition of the UITIC Congress in Porto, Portugal in May.

Established in 1971, UITIC’s objective wasw to combine national associations of footwear technicians, institutes, technical centres, companies or any individuals working in the technology field of the footwear industry.

UITIC is the French acronym for the International Union of Shoe Industry, and their primary objective is the diffusion of technical knowledge across the footwear industry. In particular, by organising international conferences on a regular basis and by taking the initiative in setting up information exchanges between its members, mainly in the field of technology. UITIC also produces brochures and newsletters to disseminate relevant information.

Joaquim Leandro de Melo explained to Apparel that UITIC is all about the circulation of knowledge, the exchange of experiences, the publication of information, the holding of conferences, and the organisation of visits and missions of entrepreneurs to companies from around the globe. “Everybody can see advanced materials and modern technologies in fairs, but seeing them applied in real production is more difficult. That is one of the unique advantages presented by the visits to the footwear factories,” added Leandro de Melo.

The UITIC Congress discusses issues relevant to footwear companies such as development strategies, business models, fashion and design, automation and robotics, advanced materials, sustainability, and training processes for the new generation of workers. “These topics will be addressed by experts from various parts of the world, coming from the USA, Germany, China, Italy, Spain, France, Brazil,

Only certain regions of the world have all these facilities and infrastructures concentrated in a cluster. It is an inevitable phenomenon that tends to improve the competitiveness and efficiency of the enterprise.

Portugal has this.

Mexico, India, and Portugal. At the same time, the attendees will have the opportunity to have a deeper contact with the Portuguese footwear industry, which is considered a worldwide success, and will be able to visit up to 12 Portuguese companies using modern technologies and manufacturing processes.”

Attendees will have the opportunity to get in contact with the vision of some of the greatest experts from the footwear industry while networking with representatives from some of the major industry players. At the same time, they will be able to see how some of the most modern companies in the world are working.

The footwear industry has undergone significant changes in recent years, which will continue, and will intensify its rhythm in the future. Major changes include: • Shoe production centres have changed with the appearance of new players.

• Business models have changed, and new market segments have emerged, more specialised and in need of special footwear (safety, sports, medical, waterproof, and so on).

• The importance of fast fashion model.

• The production of mass-produced shoes gave way to customised products.

• Production lines adapted to large-scale production have become more flexible to allow the production of small orders.

• The online commerce has gained importance and must be considered in the marketing and retail of footwear.

• The materials increasingly feel advanced properties and high performance.

• Automation is part of the manufacturing process.

“So, all these changes relate to the digital and are all part of the Industry 4.0, the new industrial revolution. And hence, we decided the theme of the 20th edition of the UITIC Congress had to be From Fashion to Factory: A New Technological Age.” The vast majority of the footwear industry is located around Porto in a radius of 100km. This has resulted in a favourable organisation of the Portuguese footwear industry, which can quickly

respond to the market needs without significant disruptions. The production of footwear requires the use of many materials and components; the intervention of several skilled and well-trained professionals, various management skills, marketing, modern technologies, and much more. “Only certain regions of the world have all these facilities and infrastructures concentrated in a cluster. It is an inevitable phenomenon that tends to improve the competitiveness and efficiency of the enterprises,” said Leandro de Melo. “Portugal has this.”

E-commerce has been a crucial element in almost all sectors; online sales have gained increasing importance in the footwear business. “E-commerce platforms have increased in number and functionality, but current trends seem to indicate that the experiences of omnichannel, combining the online and brick and mortar segments, will prevail in the future,” explained Leandro de Melo.

He went on to explain that, in fact, a new paradigm of customer relation is on the horizon that will integrate all different elements of the online and offline presence of brands and companies. This topic will be central in the Congress discussions.

The 20th UITIC Congress is a unique opportunity for importers, distributors and retailers to get to know Portuguese brands, to visit some of the most important factories and to network with some essential Portuguese players, who position their brands in niche markets and very specialised segments. Those looking for differentiated products with a twist will be impressed by the Portuguese footwear brands.

The organisation is expecting around 400 participants in the 20th edition of the UITIC Congress, including footwear manufacturers, suppliers of equipment and technologies, producers of materials, distribution and retail distribution companies, footwear associations, technical centres, universities, journalists, and so on. Being part of this community, which can be found in Porto for one week, offers immense possibilities for information exchange and networking.

For more information or to register now visit www.porto2018.uitic.org.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 11

SOPHIA BUTLER

WHITECLIFFE

Sophia Butler began sewing at the young age of 13 while in high school. She found a love for fabrics and making, and today sewing is still one of her favourite things to do. “My family really is a community of makers, be that with sewing, knitting or building, so fashion has always felt like an inevitable calling,” she said. “For me, there is a magic moment when I am sewing, where mid-way through, I can sew just one seam, and suddenly the flat pieces of fabric look like a garment.

That always feels a bit special, a moment of accomplishment.” Butler added that it is an incredible skill to have, from the practicality of mending, and the artistry that can be done in mend all the way to making one-off garments for any occasion.

“It’s a skill I use on a regular basis.”

The most valuable skill Butler has learned while studying was patience. For example; making sure to get started early enough that she had enough time towards the end of a deadline to make mistakes and find better solutions. “I see the biggest challenge facing

12 I April 2018

the industry as environmental sustainability, how can we as makers ensure that our need to create isn’t causing current or future destruction?”

During her time at Whitecliffe, she was privileged to be chosen for the Prime Minister’s Scholarship for Asia and to go to India. “I was standing on a bridge in Pondicherry, and I looked down to see this awful, red-brown water, and I was gagging from the smell of the river, and I just thought ‘I can never be a part of causing this’.”

It was a moment that has been burned into her memory and shapes nearly all of the decisions that Butler makes today.

Her post-graduate work focussed on designing for emotional durability and transparent supply chains which have built solid sustainable foundations for her forthcoming work.

Butler has since launched her eponymous label, Sofija Butler, which honours her Croatian-Irish heritage.

The brand offers a fresh perspective on the design process, designing garments to be kept and cherished for years to come. Real New Zealand women have thoroughly tested each piece and Butler has redesigned with their knowledgeable feedback in mind.

CORALIE VISSAC

WHITECLIFFE

Born and raised in New Caledonia, Coralie Vissac practised sailing and water sports from a very young age. She has always been interested in art and remembers spending countless hours drawing or painting as a child. “I recall having two enormous boxes filled with fabrics that I used to make costumes with, for my dolls and myself,” Vissac added.

Studying at Whitecliffe and experiencing the fashion industry has taught Vissac a lot. Most importantly, she has learned to seize every opportunity and not be scared to ask for what she wants. “I believe that opportunities don’t come around often and I don’t want to think about that time when I let that chance go because I wasn’t too sure or scared to ask.”

Vissac is an admirer of Christian Dior, especially in the early stages of the Couture House when he was the artistic director, and of John Galliano’s creativity and extravagance. Inspired by things she can relate to, Vissac said her passions, interests, feelings and background often profoundly influence her work.

Having danced for over eight years, Vissac’s Year Three collection drew inspiration from the practice of ballet.

This year at her graduating show, Vissac will present seven looks, and a highlight in this collection is the clever use of recycled fabric from worn-out and unwanted wetsuits, which refers back to her childhood passion for sailing. This collection is designed for independent and active women who want to be both glamorous and autonomous. “As I believe women haven’t always been free of their movements due to both their clothes and gender, functionality, comfort and femininity are key

elements in my collection,” she explained. Inspired by the French symbol of femininity, the emancipation of the eighteenth century Marie Antoinette, and the revolutionary clothing of the Suffragettes. “My fabrics will be a harmonious mix of the eighteenth century inspired as well as versatile, waterproof and stretchy materials.”

Vissac is thankful that she can transform her illustrations into finished pieces. “I think being able to create the clothes you have imagined and make your ideas come to life is indeed invaluable.”

Previously, Vissac has interned at Amber Whitecliffe where she assisted in the workroom and mostly learned how to grow your own business. She is currently interning at Apparel where she said the role has been truly beneficial to her. “It obligates me to know the latest trends and changes in the industry.

It has also taught me to be rigorous and careful in my writing and be curious in my research.”

The most significant challenge in the industry for Vissac would be to be able to overcome the rivalry in the industry and successfully convey her ideas while the biggest opportunity would be to find a company who shares the same values as her and is willing to

give her the chance to gain experience and evolve in the industry.

Vissac would love to have her own brand, however this is not her ultimate goal. “I know I will still have a lot to learn after I have graduate, that is why I want to get some experience in working in the fashion industry first and see where it takes me.” Vissac is interested in several creative fields such as styling, designing, costume design, and would love to find a job that allows her to share her ideas, create and potentially travel.

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radar childrenswear EGG MATERNITY Established by a talented mother-daughter-duo, EGG saw a gap in the market nearly twenty years ago.

When Victoria Cranwell joined the team, EGG was being sold to new owners who wanted to continue the essence of the brand. Comfortable and stylish clothes for your pregnancy journey. “It became obvious that in that time mums needs were changing and influenced by many factors,” explained Cranwell.

“And many of us are working through our pregnancies and may have to go back to work sooner than before but want to look good and we need to embrace our changing bodies and enjoy this special time.”

Traditional parents meant that fashion was put on the backburner for Cranwell while she studied at Auckland College of Education and became an early childhood teacher. A Profession she continued with for over two decades. “I then had my son, and everything fell into place. Having worked so closely with families, mothers and babies and with a passion for making women feel good about themselves as my time as a photographer I felt at home at EGG,” she said. “All the paths I had taken over the last two decades have led me here.”

Social media has been a key element of EGG, with mothers sharing their stories on Facebook and Instagram.

In saying that, the team at EGG value the shopping

experience and their shop is an integral part of our business, with the online shopping explosion connecting EGG to worldwide brands. “What we are finding though with our new mums is that is can be slightly overwhelming when your body is changing, and you are not sure what you will need. There are definite stages of pregnancy, and we cater for all in a relaxed, fun and supportive environment, hence working hard to keep our new shop doors open for mums to try on, touch and experience the clothes.”

EGG has an intimate team that works closely together on their designs. An excellent source of inspiration comes from listening to their customers. It is essential that they maintain a balance of supporting local manufacturers and being responsible with offshore manufacturing.

Creative women like Grace Coddington, Diana Vreeland, and Coco Chanel are who inspire EGG. Women who understand the needs and desires of women and who did not take no for an answer.

Moving forward, EGG is growing their designs with their customers by gaining more insights. “At EGG, we wish for our mums to enjoy their changing shape and to love their body as much as their baby does.”

You can find EGG at 72 Remuera Road, Auckland or visit www.eggmaternity.com.

LITTLE GLOBUS Established in 2017, after Natalia Kirwan couldn’t find any anatomic and orthopaedic footwear in New Zealand. Kirwan’s daughter started to walk at ten months and had developed intoeing. “One of her feet was so even turned inside when she was walking, so we went to see a children’s specialist,” Kirwan explained.

“Luckily, we travelled overseas around that time, and I got her two pairs of supportive orthopaedic footwear specially designed to improve her intoeing condition.

It really helped.” The shoes encourage her daughter to walk straight and slowly over a few months her intoeing condition was significantly improved by 95 percent. For Kirwan, the wait and see if they grow out of it approach was never good enough. In her case, special supportive footwear is what improved her daughter’s condition.

“Quality footwear for their first steps has always been my priority for all my three kids. I have always been buying the first footwear for my kids overseas. There is a market here for mums like me. In our product range, we have a special Ortho collection available for those kids who need extra support and correction. All our footwear we stock meet the main principals of anatomic footwear. The correct shoe construction is a priority for us over the fast fashion trends.”

Little Globus’ mission is to deliver the best quality children’s footwear at the most affordable prices. It is very new and a bit different for the New Zealand market. “Our manufacturers are using different approaches and technologies when creating footwear.”

Key elements to their pieces are firm and comfortable fits, sole flexibility, anatomic leather insole with a small pillow, rounded toe, and a high and firm heel counter.

As well as, a Thomas heel, appropriate fasteners, and genuine leather and safe, non-toxic materials. “In our

14 I April 2018

practice, we value sustainability, tradition, common sense in fashion and scientific approach,” she added.

“We truly believe in health benefits of anatomic footwear. The foot is a complex structure of 26 bones and 33 joints, held together and supported by scores of ligaments. These components work together to provide the body with support, balance, and mobility. A structural flaw or malfunction in any one part can result in the development of problems elsewhere in the body.”

As the sole business owner, Kirwan works with several talented people including a photographer and art director, a website developer, IT support, and of course her husband as her business adviser. “My suppliers are doing a fantastic job. My five-year-old daughter is the face of the business, and she is doing an amazing job.”

Excited to extend their product range, Kirwan said they are introducing a clothing range to complement their footwear. The same essential principals will be their paramount priority; superb quality, natural materials, timeless designs with a modern twist, and affordability. The clothing will be made in Europe.

However, Kirwan is very interested in collaborating with a New Zealand designer to produce the clothing in New Zealand.

Little Globus’ showroom in Epsom, Auckland is open every Saturday 10 am – 2 pm. Kirwan chose this model of operating to minimise costs and to keep their prices at the most affordable level. She added that they are flexible with any other business opportunities and would like to be stocked in with other local retailers.

“It is vital to get proper quality shoes for your child.”

For more information visit www.littleglobus.co.nz or email sales@littleglobus.co.nz.

RADICOOL KIDS Born in Tasmania, Australia and raised in Dunedin, New Zealand, Emily Boniface has loved fashion since she was a little girl. “My mum tells me I inherited my love of fashion from my nana,” she said. “I worked in retail fashion stores off and on, so I was always around it, and we started the brand after our first child was born.” After her son was born, Boniface saw a gap in the New Zealand kids fashion market for locally designed, premium quality boys clothing at a reasonable price point. She felt there was plenty of cheap fast fashion hanging around, but then the prices would jump really high and was mostly brands from Australia. Radicool started out in 2013 as a boyswear line at a middle price point, and it flew off the hanger.

The team then introduced a girls collection in 2014 after Boniface’s daughter was born.

“Our children River and Indie inspire every single piece we design. Our designs are also heavily influenced by our love of the surf, skate, 1980’s vibes that we grew up with.” Boniface envisages everything she creates on her kids, as she wants children to love the designs as well as the parents.

Each piece is designed in New Zealand and made by a manufacturer. “We work closely with our manufacturer overseeing all aspects of production.”

Boniface travels to China twice a year to have a close relationship with their boutique manufacturing team. Quality is paramount to Radicool Kids; they want their product to last for years and be handed down to siblings. “We believe that less is more.

That by spending a little more on a pair of good quality, ethically made pants is far better for you, the garment makers and the planet.”

Teaching children where their clothes come

from is vital to the team at Radicool Kids. Each season they partner with an organisation that they believe in. Many of their designs are nature and animal-based, so they have been able to partner with organisations like Project Aware, NZ Forest and Bird, ALERT Lion conservation, and the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund. “We value giving back to our communities and those that are in need. Every year we send product out to children less fortunate. One year we kitted out a whole classroom of children in need with the help of KidsCan.” Radicool Kids is celebrating their fifth birthday this year. Emily Boniface is the managing director and oversees their two stores and wholesale. Her husband Brendan is the creative director who looks after marketing and sales. Their seven retail staff

members manage instore customers, online orders, and wholesale re-orders.

With two Radicool Kids stores, one flagship in Dunedin and one in Wellington, their collections can be found in over 50 stockists across Australia and New Zealand, including; Smith & Caugheys, North Beach, Ballantynes, and Surfstitch.

Boniface’s future goals include growing stockists internationally so the brand would be readily available worldwide, and to potentially franchise in New Zealand. To open an Australian store is also on the cards. “We’d love to give back even more to kiwi kids and families that need it most.”

For more information or to become a stockist, email radicoolkids@live.com or visit www. radicoolkids.com.

is cited as the most significant challenge in getting their kids to be active, and parents are looking for ways to encourage a more healthy, active lifestyle. This includes being more active as a family, cooking together, or supporting their children to have a better understanding of their own activity levels. In fact, 75 percent of parents said they are interested in the use of fitness trackers to help them keep their kids active, and Fitbit was selected over competitors more than twice as often due to price and ease of use.

“The challenge of inactivity with our children is not going away and is only estimated to get worse as they

get older, dropping almost 40 minutes per year from ages 9 to 15,” said Chris Watts, executive director of the National Fitness Foundation. “It is essential to provide parents with tools to help their kids be more active.

Fitbit’s solution offers more than just a way to track activity – it helps instil healthy habits from an early age, making it fun and rewarding to move more and empowers parents to make health and fitness a family affair.”

The showerproof wristband is available in two colourways, electric blue or power purple, and offers ten unique clock faces.

FITBIT FOR KIDS Fitbit has launched its first wearable for kids with the aim to help families stay active together. The new Fitbit Ace boasts its daily activity and sleep tracking, motivating challenges, up to five-day battery life, and parental controls to safeguard kids’ privacy.

Its objective is to make staying active fun and to address this challenge it rewards kids for moving and encourages them to achieve their daily goals. It also allows kids to compete against their family and friends in daily and weekly challenges. It reminds kids to move with a gentle buzz when they’ve been sitting for too long, promoting at least 250 steps each hour.

Fitbit’s new Ace was designed for kids ages eight and older. According to the World Health Organisation, childhood obesity rates are on the rise, with two out of three kids inactive every day. “As childhood obesity rates continue to rise, it’s more important than ever to empower the entire family to embrace a healthy and more active lifestyle,” said James Park, CEO and Cofounder of Fitbit. “It can be hard to start and stick to good habits, and we know from our community that network effects are key to getting and keeping people motivated. By bringing that experience to families, it can make healthier habits feel more achievable by making it fun and engaging. We are excited by the opportunity to enable parents to help set their kids on a path to building lifelong, healthy habits all while having fun together.”

Based on a new Fitbit study, most parents agree and believe their children are less active than when they were children. Concerned about their child’s weight, food consumption, and their activity levels, 84 percent of parents want their children to be healthier. Screen time

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Plaid has come a long way since being banned from Britain in the 1700’s because of its association with the Scottish Rebellion. The crisscross pattern, made famous by punks, grunge and nineties movies such as Clueless and Dukes of Hazzard, has seen another resurgence this year thanks to designers like Stella McCartney and Marc Jacobs. Designers and celebrities are going full plaid mode with suiting and dresses complemented with an array of various plaid and tartan coats. Perfect for winter weather the eye-catching pattern adds depth and colour to any outfit with its overlapping lines in numerous shades.

Balenciaga is clearly a fan of Cher (no, not the singer). The fashion-forward, socially successful teen from everyone’s favourite nineties film Clueless, virtually made plaid famous again with her matching bright yellow two-piece. Models were seen working the runway in full plaid coats, boots and skirts. Everything from black and white patterns to pops of pink similar to Resene Suzie Q was used to create a heart-stopping collection worth lining up for. The more traditional plaid was juxtaposed with the use of fluro coloured velvets and over the top accessories; such as small sunglasses and oversized tote bags that created a rounded retro collection.

Grunge met the School of Rock at the Enfants Riches Fall runway show. Plaid suits, corduroy,

16 I April 2018

turtlenecks and a skirt made from ties were all showcased on the catwalk as models rocked the runway with the nineties look. Initially rocked by designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Marc Jacobs; it was Alexander McQueen who infused his Fall/Winter 1995 collection Highland Rape with tartan to create a bold political statement. Creating clothes that he himself would want to wear, the Enfants designer channelled influences from the Roaring Twenties right through to the Nifty Fifties with an aesthetic of dark blacks and greys to colours close to Resene Zinzan and pops of bright red. Mr Schneebly would love this mish-mashed collection of styles that Riches produced.

An evolution from previous collections, N-PElliot Men’s Fall runway show was a joyous mix of traditional Scottish influences and nineties Ken doll fashion. Models were clad in plaid as they walked the runway accompanied by their sporran, a Gaelic purse rocked by males over their tartan kilts. In high contrast, models were also spotted walking the walk in the nineties inspired ensembles that were reminiscent of old-school sports fashion. Entirely plaid dresses moved down the runway showcasing a range colours from bright yellow and cool deep blue tones to a red hue similar to Resene Havoc.

Skater belts and bum bags were among some of the retro accessories that were included in the show, along with cropped vests and jackets covered in

utility pockets.

Stella McCartney showcased her Fall 2018 collection this week with a mixture of warm wool coats and delicate silk gowns.

McCartney had her moment with this fall show, bold graphic prints were mixed with oversized fur, and beautiful silk embodied gowns. The trending pattern of the moment, however, was plaid which appeared in the form of blazers and oversized coats.

The lines were enhanced with subtle natural base colours close to Resene Calibre. McCartney’s collection balanced luxury and sophistication with street as she collided gowns inspired by vintage wedding dresses with casual sneakers and exaggerated ponchos.

Ovadia and Sons Collection was

an ode to punk. Their Men’s Fall show was a pensive mixture of styles that saw plaid patterns and leopard print come together along with hints of velvet and leather. A colour very close to Resene Desperado made an appearance in the form of a tartan style bomber jacket, and bright red plaids featured in everything from pants to blazers. Leopard print shoes created chaos when paired with plaid shirts and swinging key chains, while an injection of the Wild West saw the revival of rodeo graphic prints and retro button up shirts. The Sex Pistols and Ramones would look at home wearing this modern, yet edgy clash collection.

It was all about the B’s at the Marc Jacobs Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear runway show. Big, bold and bright were the three crucial aspects of the show as models marched down the runway in bold prints, bright colours and big shoulders. A rainbow of colours was seen on the catwalk as large woollen coats in bright red and green were harmonised with bright blue leather and dresses in a purple colour similar to Resene Full Monty. Bold prints in jewel tones were accessorised with the use of the

Colours available from

model’s hair, which was dyed in a matching shade, and with over the top shoes that were reminiscent of the Shakespeare era. Wide flat brimmed hats designed by Stephen Jones stood perfectly balanced with big over the top shoulders that swallowed the models as they made their move down the runway. Volume was undoubtedly the star of this loud, yet passionate collection.

House of Holland’s Fall Collection was a much subtler show than its predecessors. Prints were the standout with floral, polka dot, camo and plaid all making an entrance. Plaid puffers in a hue similar to Resene Red It, were contrasted with slinky dresses in floral and stripe fabrics to give the collection a more feminine vibe. The no-makeup makeup beauty look contributed to the overall feel of the understated show as did small black handbags and

Resene ColorShops

www.resene.co.nz

black leather caps. An infusion of edginess was added as models were seen covered with climbing equipment such as carabiners and ropes.

The theme of Etudes Fall show was minimalist underground.

Safety colour orange and blue coloured plaid, close to Resene Double Resolution Blue, gave the collection a hint of colour, as did ancient Greek influences.

The growing trend of outdoor sports equipment made an appearance again, this time in the form of ski balaclavas and even more carabiners. Elegance was merged with street in Etudes Ready-to-Wear 2018 show as models rocked classic wool coats and tailored trousers with oversized scarves and utility style jackets.

Netting, ropes and jam-packed key rings used as accessories helped to extend the edgy aesthetic and establish the overall theme of underground chic.

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Starting 2018 strong: meet the Q1 bestsellers With Q1 now closed, how did retail shape up? What are consumers digging and did brands get it in time?

Industry press talking about the so-called ‘retail apocalypse’ is classic fear-mongering. Certainly retail has changed and will continue to do so in the coming years. But what it overlooks is the cool and innovative things that are happening in our industry. Not to mention the fact that consumers are still buying stuff – it might just be from a different place.

In fact, the 2017 holidays were unexpectedly bright for many. So how has retail fared so far in 2018?

KILLING IT IN Q1 Here are the retailers who’ve announced a promising start to the year: Abercrombie & Fitch is back. Its stock rose nearly 40 percent in Q1 as comparable sales trends continued to improve and gross margins continued to shift upwards.

Like-for-like sales at fast fashion retailer Little Mistress Group have soared 26.4 percent year on year for the three months to March 2018.

Puma is notching up activewear wins, now on track for net sales to grow 10 percent each year to 2022.

Levi’s has upped its full year guidance to 8 percent following a 24 percent net revenue increase. That’s driven by strong brand growth across all regions and channels.

Macy’s posted its 34th consecutive quarter of double-digit growth in digital. The retailer has invested in technology to make check-out wait times shorter and to augment the experience of purchasing furniture.

Meanwhile, H&M has reported a dismal Q1, with flat year-on-year sales and plummeting operating profits. The retailer is struggling with high inventory levels it can’t clear. Meanwhile, the retailer’s new brands’ sales have grown 15 percent year-on-year and online sales are up 20 percent.

HOW THEY DID IT Little Mistress achieved its stellar sales “working with 36 percent less stock” and adopting a strategy to buy closer to season. Puma has refocused its business on sports products, scaling back on the fashion segment. And A&F has invested deeply in its best performing brand, Hollister.

The themes here are committing to digital, focusing on what does well within brand and not overinvesting. See, retail is not dead – it’s just the skills to do it best have shifted.

Today, with a more crowded market place and new spend being committed to innovating in digital, every single part of a retailer’s product assortment has to connect.

So, how many of Q1’s bestselling trends did you buy into?

18 I April 2018

1. SHADES Round lenses are still dominating, making up 39 percent of all sunglass arrivals, but it’s small lenses which have been Q1’s trend hit.

You can thank Kanye’s memo for this one, but it’s a look backed by luxury brands like Illesteva and Prada, as well as across the fast fashion landscape.

Expect these to keep selling through the year – no doubt that Coachella next week will be driving this one fiercely.

2. CROSS-BODY BAGS New arrivals of the cross-body bag have increased, taking up 26 percent of bag arrivals – a 14 percent increase from Q4. The flight bag and waist bag/ fanny pack are the most dominant cross-body styles for either gender. It’s a highly functional look that will make an impact through the summer and into fall.

3. BERETS Such a big trend within womenswear, this one has even filtered through to men’s. Berets are selling well, and although we expect to see a high summer dip, watch this trend – you should consider it for Q3 2018.

4. CHUNKY SOLE SNEAKERS It’s the Balenciaga effect – who last year took the normcore theme to the extreme with 80s dad sneakers bearing chunky soles. For Q1 these took on cartoonist proportions at the likes of Zara and Topshop.

As we’ve seen in consumer sneaker trends recently, we can expect at least two seasons from this one.

5. IT’S ALL YELLOW Yellow was a recurring shade in Q1 bestsellers spanning the full market from luxury to mass in accessories, apparel and footwear. And though Pantone called Ultra Violet as its Color of the Year, data suggests otherwise. More yellow items sold out in Q1 than purple.

6. CULOTTES Q1 new arrivals of culottes were up 56 percent on Q1 2017, with big uptake on the mass market. Pleated metallics and bold colors are working well – though these are also a great workwear category item as invested in by ASOS, Everlane and Frank & Oak

7. STRIPED EVERYTHING You read it here first: bold stripes will be this summer’s key print story. New arrivals are up by an astounding 43 percent, given the print is such a perennial. The print is selling well on midi dresses, in pants and on skirts across a huge span of price points.

8. PAPERBAG WAIST This one is a bit of surprise trend, having grown 344 percent in Q1 on last year.

Trousers account for 51 percent of the paperbag waist assortment, with shorts and skirts also receiving notable attention. Pants are selling best, but there have been some key skirt pieces from Bershka and Zara.

9. SLOGAN TOPS International Women’s Day and the Women’s March fell in Q1 and retailers were prepped for it with t-shirts bearing positive message slogans. With the high turnover in social language trends and memes, this is a trend that will run and run. Staying on top of the right slogans is where you need to pay attention.

10. BLAZERS Although blazers are performing well across the board, there’s a very specific shape of blazer that’s been a killer hit in muted pink right across luxury and mass markets.

These will probably have peaked in the next month or two, but the silhouette will stick with us into Fall 2018 – make sure you’ve included a longer-line double breasted style in your workwear offering.

is working on launching her own fashion label with the help of her mother and the team at Bintang Models. “I am going to Shanghai Fashion Expo in April to get some inspiration and to meet potential manufacturers. I love fashion and styling, I would like to take this to another level and create something that I can call my own and inspire others.”

She is also looking to open another restaurant in the near future. Reventon studied Jewellery Design at Unitec in Auckland.

She first became interested in modelling because of all the opportunities it offers from the industry.

“Especially when I can become a better version of myself throughout the process of being part of something creative.” Walking in her first show

for Jessica Bridal, Reventon was surprised she overcame her fear of presenting herself in front of a house of strangers. “I learned a lot that that day and I think it is the most unforgettable experience.”

Her mother is her biggest inspiration, who also used to be a singer in Japan when she was younger.

She then become a pattern maker in a fashion house in Tokyo before she branched out and started her own clothing factory.

Reventon added that she is also inspired by Patric Seng from Bintang Models. “He managed to run a successful modelling agency at his young age,” she said. “He taught me to accept myself, my own beauty, and follow my dream.”

Reventon’s dream job is to walk in a Victoria’s Secret Show.

BLACK PANTHER

PHANTOM THREADS

THE GREATEST SHOWMAN

Newly crowned king of Wakanda, T’Challa returns to his nation with the challenging task of protecting his country from a vengeful victim of his father’s mistake.

This fictional and technologically advanced world is the home of bold and extravagantly dressed characters.

Costume designer, Ruth Carter mainly took her inspiration from various African cultures that she referred to through the use of traditional and symbolic elements.

The costuming was filled with vibrant contrasting colours; heavily featuring the use of red, green, turquoise, white, and purple. The influence of African tribes was also seen through the use beads, triangle patterns, neck and headpieces. “I really wanted to mix the textures and the patterns, and the vibrancy of the red was very important,” said Carter. Some designs also show a hint of Edwardian inspiration, with the use of embroidery and design details.

The traditional elements are subtly paired with a rather futuristic look and give the characters a unique point of difference. These afrofuturstic designs successfully bring the fantastic world of Wakanda to life.

Phantom Thread is set in the life of fashion designer, Reynolds Woodcock, who’s neat and organised life is disrupted by a determined woman who soon becomes his lover and muse.

This film takes place in 1950’s London and features beautifully crafted gowns inspired by successful designers such as Balenciaga, Dior, and Charles James.

Costume designer Mark Ridges designed the costumes with the will to determine the character’s personalities through the garments. “I just try to tell their story and how their outside reflects their inside,” Ridges explained.

The post-war designs accurately illustrate the fashion of the time with the use of fabrics such as silk and velvet, and the iconic hourglass silhouette of Dior. Lace appears to be the hallmark of the House of Woodcock and is applied to most of the garments throughout the film. One dress is even composed of Flemish lace dating from the 1700’s. The influence of London’s fashion is depicted through the use of dark colours and woolen fabrics.

A storytelling musical that counts the story of P.T Barnum, an ambitious man who rose from nothing to become the founder of a sensational never-seen-before live show.

This enchanting comedy features a magical and timeless wardrobe designed by award-winning costume designer, Ellen Mirojnick. Mirojnick has previously said she was an addict of musicals. “There is no other genre that I would climb a mountain for,” she said.

This passion has certainly been witnessed in the movie’s wardrobe, in which her vast inspiration went from 19th and 20th-century costumes to the work of acclaimed designer John Galliano.

The fashionable and modern designs were made of textured fabrics such as velvet, satin, and silk. Paired with stand-out details like Swarovski diamonds, golden buttons, embroidery and lace. The designs featured vibrant hues including purple, red, green – as well as more subtle and delicate colours such as white, orchidpurple and light pink. All of which blend effortlessly to create a fantastic, romantic and enchanting world.

Lamaire Reventon BINTANG MODELS

Twenty-three-year-old Lamaire Reventon came across Bintang Models on Instagram and decided to contact them. Now signed with them for the past year, Reventon owns her restaurant in Browns Bay, Auckland. Reventon modelled for her mother’s jewellery collection in China, and one of her favourite shoots so far has been with photographer Clara Pafundi and her team. “China is a fast pace country, everything is happening so fast and I was so lucky to model for my mum and learn more about the industry,” she added. “While in New Zealand, I get to learn new things, for example, runway training and working with cool photographers.”

Reventon’s mother is a jewellery designer and used to have her own clothing factory, and her Italian father runs an antique store. Reventon

fashionable films

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apparel presents After many years of being a media partner with Vancouver Fashion Week, this year Apparel has curated a New Zealand group showcase titled Apparel Presents. For Vancouver Fashion Week's Fall/Winter 2018 season, three emerging Kiwi designers, Tracey Yue of TraceYGH, Georgette PollockJohnston, and Not For You's Jerome Taylor, showcased a five-look collection each.

Want to showcase your designs at Vancouver Fashion Week in September 2018? Email caitlan@reviewmags.com or call (09) 304 0142 ext 706.

GEORGETTE POLLOCK-JOHNSTON "Watching my garments come down the runway and then being able to come out with them for the finale was an incredible feeling. Immediately after the show, all of the models from our group show came out on the runway, during a break in between shows which was amazing timing, so the media could interview us and get photos of us with our collections. It was like a frenzy of media swarming to us," said Georgette Pollock-Johnston. "The show itself was pretty amazing, it was everything I imagined and more." Pollock-Johnston is now working on her next forward season collection for her Renee label. "I am actually moving to the US in May which is something I've wanted to do for so long and Vancouver definitely sealed the deal for me. So, I may have to look at doing the collection when I'm over there as I don't have much time before I leave."

20 I April 2018

"Miss J Alexander from America's Next Top Model wearing Not For You at Vancouver Fashion Week."

NOT FOR YOU “The highlight of Vancouver Fashion Week was definitely the people we met and the networking we were able to achieve. We met so many amazing people and made some amazing connections,” said Not For You designer Jerome Taylor. “We spoke to media almost every night so it is hard to remember everyone. We spoke to Korean TV, numerous blogs and so many different influencers in the industry.” Taylor added that the show itself was an incredible experience. “We were really lucky to be able to show a sixth look last minute and the responses we received from the show were nothing but positive. So, it was overall amazing.” Not For You is now working on its Winter 2019 collection, as well as a few other projects in the pipeline.

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TraceYGH “A really important highlight of the fashion week for me was seeing all the different styles and variety of beautiful garments accessories and artwork designed and created by people from all over the world,” said TraceYGH designer, Tracey Yue. Yue spoke to several media for interviews including Vogue China. When talking about her group show with Georgette Pollock-Johnston and Not For You, Yue said it was an amazing experience. “I definitely feel like I learned a lot and was very inspired by going to the shows. Also, the amount of variety at the shows made it so eye-opening.”

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Vancouver Fashion Week saw an abundance of talent from across the globe. As the fastest growing fashion week in the world, Vancouver Fashion Week actively seeks out international emerging designers to showcase their designs on a global stage with an array of international media coverage. The team at Vancouver Fashion Week strives to identify undiscovered talent and connect them with buyers and media.

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security brief

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 27

security

World Backup Day - what every business should be thinking about Data has indisputably become the most strategic asset of every organisation. Whether organisations want to mine data for insights, or simply prevent it from falling into the wrong hands, data is needed to keep businesses moving with minimal disruption.

Organisations are challenged to ensure users have access to data easily, whilst also keeping it protected regardless of where it lives. Given wide disparities in data strategies, the evolving nature of data and related technologies, as well as changes in governmental and industry regulations and requirements, this is no mean feat.

World Backup Day has come and gone again, serving as an annual reminder to businesses to check in on their data and their approaches to its protection, to ensure it is safe.

THERE ARE SEVERAL KEY CONSIDERATIONS HERE Firstly, it’s often said that the best defence is a good offence, and rightly so. Organisations that proactively seek to make their data work for them grant themselves an advantage: not only can they succeed over their competition, but they can also nimbly sidestep criminals dying to steal sensitive information.

This proactive approach to data protection is the best defence an organisation can have.There are several other questions businesses leaders must ask themselves as they embark on this journey.

IS THE DATA PROTECTION STRATEGY KEEPING UP WITH THE BUSINESS NEEDS? A proactive, insight-driven strategy is not just about copying data, but also ensuring that your data protection practices are keeping pace with changes occurring within the business.

One way to stay agile is to adopt scale out infrastructure for secondary storage.While this has traditionally only been used for primary storage, the fact is more than 70% of business data now sits in secondary storage – making scalability key.

Scale out infrastructure delivers cloud-like services on-premise, helping businesses achieve IT agility without having to constantly worry about data risk and infrastructure complexity.When the business sees its chance to charge ahead of other industry players, scale out architecture means they don’t require any enormous upgrades to move data, or face unpredictable performance hits. Instead, they are provided with seamless scalability that supports the speed of the business.

28 I April 2018

Organisations that proactively seek to make their data work for them grant themselves an advantage: not only can they succeed over their competition, but they can also nimbly sidestep criminals dying to steal sensitive information.

IS ALL OF MY BUSINESS DATA TRULY PROTECTED? The infrastructure evolution has changed the way we work with and store our data – pushing it out into multiple clouds and service providers.

A whopping 93% are already leveraging cloud day-to-day for backup, allowing them to store large amounts of data in more cost-effective, easy-tomaintain and agile environments.

But CIOs can quickly forget what they’re still responsible for protecting all data – regardless of its location.They must understand where their data is, and how it is used, in order to truly protect their organisations.

This level of insight is also essential for the creation of strategic, data-driven initiatives which can enable companies to do more with their data.

For example, to support R&D, training, and to drive strategic decision making.

DO I REALLY KNOW MY DATA? Following on from the above, and perhaps most

importantly, in order to truly protect and leverage data, an organisation must know their data inside out: Where is it? What is it? Who uses it? How often is it used?

This is vital information when looking to refresh or rebuild a data protection strategy. True oversight requires a unified view of data across any and all environments.

Such visibility allows organisations to adopt practices and solutions that support an offensive strategy to their data protection approach.

With data now the most important asset of every organisation, don’t let yourself be fooled – take the time to understand your data and build the best data protection strategy to safeguard your business.

A good offence will help businesses win in an increasingly competitive business environment and give them the agility to face outages and threats that are becoming more sophisticated each day.

Businesses need to stay adaptable and be pragmatic, adapting their protection strategies to constantly changing businesses priorities.

Supplied by Security Brief. www.securitybrief.co.nz

UNDERCOVER WITH WARDEN CONSULTING

directly to mitigating losses and enhancing business.

The services provided involve investigation, security consultancy, intelligence analysis, uniform security personnel and covert operations.

This approach has worked well in the transport and logistics in Consulting has a contractual partnership with NZ Post to provide integrated security and investigation services. The combined strategy is linked directly to mitigating losses with proactive uniformed security guards integrating with investigators. This provides immediacy regarding response and early attention to incidents ensuring early and best evidence. Analysis of historical data, ongoing investigations, compliance issues, fused with the on-site Uniform Security Guards, security consultancy and crime trends assist in continually formulating strategies and tactics. The model practically provides an operational impact on sites including Health & Safety issues, staff performance, a deterrent effect and overall site control.

Warden Consulting has two primary services which are fraud recovery and general investigations. Fraud recovery has specific expertise in recovering funds lost to fraud, particularly internationally.

“This involves assembling victim groups, securing evidence including financial data, tracing offenders and freezing bank accounts,” said van Leeuwarden. “These cases can be challenging as the fraudsters use multiple jurisdictions to prevent apprehension. We have a proven track record however supported by those who have lost funds and then had a return.”

General Investigations include employee theft and

fraud, cybercrime, international due diligence inquiries, corporate and securities breaches, defence inquiries regarding severe crime and international money laundering operations, background checking and tracing.

Warden Consulting consists of a team of six investigators, eight long-term uniform security staff each with over ten years under their belts, and a pool of 15 additional security personnel.

Van Leeuwarden said she would like to keep the company in the family bloodline and within the next few years she will take the reins as managing director. “The great thing about our business is we are nimble and able to adapt to the ever-evolving landscape, given our industry is pretty cutthroat this is a definite bonus.”

Looking ahead, van Leeuwarden would like to continue to work on the offshore frauds and expand into insolvency and insurance investigation. A forensic technological advance that van Leeuwarden is keen to get her hands on is the new Forensic Brain Scan Analysis or ‘Brain Fingerprinting’ which has just come out of USA. This new technology measures brainwave responses and could potentially be used as a tool in criminal investigations rather than traditional lie detectors or polygraphs. “Results in the USA are promising, and the University of Canterbury is currently investigating the viability of its use in New Zealand as well as the legal and ethical issues related to its use.”

Warden Consulting can help you with investigation, security, undercover operations and consults. “Theft, fraud, and industrial sabotage can occur in any industry, and that’s where we can help.”

For more information call +649 4144252, email office@wardenconsulting.com or visit www. wardenconsulting.com.

OPINON: Counting the broader cost of Facebook’s data dilemma

personal information of users.

However, these privacy concerns have raised some strong feelings in the business community around Facebook’s viability as a business tool. Our recommendation is that organisations that continue to leverage Facebook as a business platform should review some basic controls such as: Consider who is allowed to share data. For example, create policies so only certain authorised groups can post to the corporate Facebook account.

Be aware of attempts to leverage information that is available in your company’s social profile. For example, spear phishing to target execs, exfiltrate data, steal credentials.Train your users to recognise such attempts and take appropriate action.

While the longer-term effect on Facebook’s reputation remains to be seen, we expect to see organisations making decisions about whether the platform poses a security risk and how to minimise the threat on those occasions where an alternative option just doesn’t exist.

Supplied by Security Brief. www.securitybrief.co.nz

Charlotte van Leeuwarden is the investigations manager and director at Warden Consulting, a company that was founded by her father in 1995. “He was a former undercover agent and detective before obtaining a law degree at Canterbury University,” explained van Leeuwarden. His thesis topic was the regulation of the private investiga tion industry worldwide. He went on to practice as a Barrister and saw a gap in the industry for an amalgamation of legal and investigative services. “I also hold a current practising certificate as Barrister of the High Court of NZ.” The fusion of legal and investigative services set Warden Consulting apart from the rest. It is definitely a niche area and allows them the ability to offer their clients an all-encompassing package. Overall, van Leeuwarden explained that having knowledge of the law and how it operates is a crucial advantage to efficiently running as a private investigator. “This becomes particularly important when working on off-shore frauds involving crossjurisdictions.”

Their integrated security and investigation model is the cornerstone of effective corporate security. It is a unique approach, virtually a mini-Police department with the proactive uniform security guard personnel integrating with our investigators to create an intelligence and security consultancy function. This integrated strategy is linked

As the news agenda continues to be dominated by the fallout from claims that millions of Facebook profiles were apparently exploited for political purposes, we wanted to see whether this story was changing the way that businesses thought about how their staff used technology. At the recent Cloud Expo Europe show in London, we conducted a survey of more than 350 attendees to find out.

We started by trying to understand whether the news had prompted members of the IT industry to change their relationship with Facebook. It was no surprise to hear that 55 percent of respondents trusted Facebook less as a result. This lack of trust was shown in the fact that 12 percent had deleted their account since the news broke and another 29 percent had taken measures to amend their security and sharing settings.

On a personal level, people had definitely had their eyes opened to data privacy, sharing and security issues.

of Facebook both inside and outside the workplace would be affected, this story certainly appears to have had a broader impact. Almost two thirds of respondents (62 percent) said that this news had led them to review their corporate policy for allowing user access to non-business related sites and apps - whether that was with a view to providing new guidance or restricting access. Only 20 percent planned to maintain a policy to allow free access to non-business sites and apps.

WILL THIS MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE? While restricting access to non-business apps from the workplace can improve productivity, it may not impact Facebook’s ability to collect and share the

SO WHAT DOES THIS MEAN FOR BUSINESSES? Of those that allow access to Facebook through the corporate network, almost half (46 percent) said that they were planning to educate staff on how they can protect themselves and their data. Some, around 8 percent, said that they were taking more drastic steps and blacklisting the social network altogether, whilst 7 percent were going to more tightly control which staff had access.

Whilst it’s perhaps no surprise to learn that use

Article by Barracuda International senior vice president Chris Ross

caitlan@reviewmags.com or call 09 304 0142 ext 706

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 29

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