Apparel Magazine | Winter 2022

WINTER

A Cultural History of Color

Renaissance

By Sven Dupré, Amy Buono, Carole P. Biggam, Kirsten Wolf

A Cultural History of Color in the Renaissance covers the period 1400 to 1650, a time of change, conflict, and transformation. Innovations in color production transformed the material world of the Renaissance, especially in ceramics, cloth, and paint.

Fashion, Dress and Post-postmodernism

By José Blanco F. , Andrew Reilly

The book starts with a discussion of fashion, subjectivity, and time and an analysis of temporality, technology, and fashion in post-postmodern times. Later chapters analyse the work of design houses and mass producers such as Vetements, Gucci, and Uniqlo whose products align with post-postmodern aesthetics, hyperconsumption, and hypermodern branding.

in the

The Greatest Rooms of the Century

By Phaidon Editors, William Norwich

Phaidon's much-lauded Interiors: The Greatest Rooms of the Century is the ultimate global celebration of residential interior design and decorating. With 400 rooms organized by designer from A-Z, the book goes beyond decorators, designers, and architects to highlight exquisite interiors designed by fashion designers, artists, style icons, and film stars, each of whom has made a unique contribution to the world of interior design.

Ranging from the beginning of the twentieth century to the present day, the book features everything from chateaux, town houses, and penthouses to desert ranches, beach houses, and tiny apartments in more than 25 countries. This is the essential inspirational source book for design aficionados, anyone who is interested in beautiful rooms, and for everyone who cares about the spaces in which they live.

Yves Saint Laurent and Art

By Stephan Janson, Mouna Mekour, Madison Cox

Celebrating sixty years of Yves Saint Laurent, this collection juxtaposes YSL creations with fine art masterpieces from major museums.

In January 1962, Yves Saint Laurent launched his very first collection. To celebrate the sixtieth anniversary of the founding of his couture house, the Musée Yves Saint Laurent, Paris, is looking back at the couturier’s work and juxtaposing his creations with art works from the collections of five major Paris institutions: the Musée d’Orsay, the Louvre, the Centre Pompidou, the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, and the Musée Picasso, as well as presenting a behindthe-scenes glimpse into the secrets of couture at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent.

STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB OPENS FLAGSHIP WELLINGTON STORE

Contemporary

The new store is located at 98 Victoria Street, including a retail space of 150sqm and featuring a black, silver and pink colour scheme throughout.

“The time was right to expand; to capitalise on our growth and direct our energy into creating a new benchmark for Stolen, not just in New Zealand, but

globally,” said

The store concept was developed by Moore, with creative director Dean Poole from brand partner Alt Group, architect Jun Tsujimoto, principal at multi-award-winning architecture practice Jasmax, and Anna Hill, head of interiors at Jasmax.

On the well-known fashion corner, three ideas collide: the sculptural shaping of space, art and contemporary

fashion. Resembling a blackedout club, the store materialises as a void punctuated with slot apertures that reveal tightly prescribed interior views, making store renewal and replenishment a curatorial act. While store access is purposefully slowed down, anticipation conversely ramps up as you follow the 20m-long, blackedout threshold that delivers you to the dramatic, amorphous silver space.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

LEVI’S X GANNI

Inspired by a newfound love for gardening, Levi’s x GANNI has returned for their third collaboration just as our minds turn to the summer horizon.

The “Grow Up” collection has Mother Nature at its heart, made with at least 55 percent certified organic cotton and natural dyes from real plants and minerals, using water-saving techniques.

The Levi’s brand epitomises classic American style and effortless cool while Ganni’s Scandi 2.0 sense of style is full of personality and contrast. The two brands are natural partners with shared optimism and commitment to sustainability - front and centre in the latest collaboration.

NIKE’S LATEST FABRIC INNOVATION

Nike has introduced a new material, called Forward. The sportswear giant believes the new Forward material will do for its apparel line what Flyknit did a decade ago for footwear, and that creating an all-new fabric offers a sustainably minded approach to the future of product.

Nike describes the material as not being a traditional knit or a weave, and it apparently does not even use yarn. Instead, the manufacturing process creates fibres from recycled plastic flakes and attaches them together using needle-punching machines mostly found in the automotive and medical industries. Multiple thin layers are mechanically entangled, crafting a new material.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

fashion brand known for its independent spirit, Stolen Girlfriends Club has expanded its presence by launching its first flagship store in Wellington.

Stolen Girlfriends Club creative director and co-founder Marc Moore.

AUSTRALIAN ACTIVEWEAR BRAND LSKD TO OPEN NZ STORE

Australian activewear brand LSKD (Loose Kid) is set to open its first New Zealand store within a year.

Revealed as the company opened its first store in Melbourne, Victoria, the brand also plans to open another four stores in Australia within the same time period.

The Melbourne store features a retail space of 154sqm and will display core styles as well as new collections. At the Chadstone shopping centre, the store’s concept has grey running as the main

colour throughout and the brand aims to highlight its “chase the vibe mission” with a black façade and wall decorations displaying the company’s core values.

The sportswear apparel brand was founded in 2007, is Brisbane-based and specialises in functional sportswear with a street aesthetic. LSKD opened its first physical store earlier this year in Loganholme, Queensland, inside its 4000sqm headquarters.

The location of the New Zealand store is yet to be announced.

WOODS. WARMTH.

WONDER.

Australian botanical brand

Aēsop has added Eidesis, a new unisex fragrance to its Othertopias collection.

As with all of Aēsop’s fragrances, Eidesis knows no gender boundaries, and is designed to be worn as an intimate layer that lingers on both body and mind.

Made in collaboration with longterm partner Barnabé Fillion, the upcoming fragrance draws upon the myth of Narcissus and Echo.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

CONVERSE DEBUT NEW BASKETBALL SILHOUETTE

Converse’s new debut - the Converse All Star BB Prototype CX is built for the athlete not confined by a position or stereotype.

The newest silhouette in the brand’s basketball line-up is Converse’s first performance basketball featuring a CX foam midsole, boosting impact absorption to optimise long-lasting comfort from shootaround to postgame.

This new era of hoopers is a sharpshooter, playmaker, paint protector, lockdown defender and more.

Among the prototype’s additional game changing innovations are a new lockdown system that gives players an instant secure feel with higher sidewalls, which assists in both preventing rolling off the midsole during cutting and ensuring a smooth ride. Weight is reduced through a new coring design component, helping to give energy back to the athlete so they

can stay on top of their game longer. A hidden webbing lacing system supports containment and a snug lockdown. All Star BB Prototype CX gives you breathable comfort and an elevated look that combines the best of sport and style. An integrated pull tab allows for easy-on, while the hidden webbing lacing system provides maximum support and containment.

• Mid-top, mixed material basketball shoe

• CX foam for maximum cushioned comfort

• Hidden webbing lacing system keeps you secure and adds to style Star Chevron branding

Converse All Star BB Prototype CX is exclusively available at converse.co.nz and Converse NZ retailers

VANS X BIANCA CHANDÔN EXPLORES THE STARS

In its latest collaboration release, Vault by Vans comes together with Bianca Chandôn with a shared desire to explore the referential meaning behind the stars.

The four-piece Vault by Vans footwear collection is an exploration of thought around the way in which we are accustomed to a stars fivepointed shape from childhood, to the meaning they take on as we enter adulthood and the influence they have beyond the beauty we see in the vast sky.

Bringing the star concept together with inspiration from the iconic Vault by Vans checkerboard series, these stars are meant to create something familiar to those that wear them and something completely different simultaneously. Each silhouette utilises premium cotton- canvas uppers stressed to reveal a pre-worn look and feel to each model. The fivepoint star graphic has been applied to an all-over repeated pattern similar yet different to Vans’ checkerboard pattern. Each pair is finished with Bianca Chandôn branding that appears to be handwritten in blue ink across the heel counter of each shoe.

The Vault by Vans x Bianca Chandôn collection is available to shop exclusively at Loaded - loaded. com and Loaded High Street store, Auckland.

VANS ALL-NEW SILHOUETTE

The icon of creative exploration, Vans has introduced an all-new silhouette - a modern take on next-level comfort inspired by a Vans Classic style.

The Vans Old Skool Overt CC is an ultra-comfy shoe, acknowledging the positive effect that truly comfortable footwear can have on fuelling our daily lives.

Designed with a roomier, sporty fit, the Old Skool Overt CC features a rubber outsole plate for grip and traction, and overtly comfortable vibes from extra foam along the shoe’s collar, tongue, and quarter panels. The 360-degree sculpted midsole offers a compression channel crumple zone, while a moulded removable insole offers extended comfort.

The latest Vans Old Skool Overt CC collection is available in calming colourways - sand/white and light grey.

DR. MARTENS NEWEST SS22 CITY PACK

Dr. Martens has just announced their newest SS22 City Pack. They feature four iconic cities captured on four distinct one-off reworks of their most iconic shoe silhouette.

The City pack pays tribute to New York, London, Tokyo, and LA with four limited-edition takes on the Original 1461 shoe. Each shoe captures the vibrance of four iconic cities–with each metropolis's energy, soul and grit stitched into every silhouette.

The 1461 New York is built from a mashup of black and yellow Smooth leathers–nodding to the classic yellow taxi. Enhanced with a 'Big Apple' graphic on the backstrap and a New York map on the insole, the shoes are fitted with flecked laces and an antique black 'NY' lace charm.

The 1461 Los Angeles is printed with a bold digital print of an LA sunset. Made from durable Backhand leather, the shoes are finished with contrast black backstraps printed with‘L' and 'A' lettering and an antique black 'LA' lace

charm.

The 1461 London is crafted from Smooth leather in various shades of grey–paying tribute to the city's many buildings. Detailed with 'double yellow lines on the backstrap and a popped yellow eyelet and lace tips, the shoes are fitted with an antique black 'LDN' lace charm and a sock-liner printed with a map of the city.

Lastly, the 1461 Tokyo has a monochrome design inspired by Tokyo's Shibuya crossing. Split down the middle, it's built from a hybrid of black and white Patent Lamperleather and fitted with matching monochrome hardware and an antique black 'TKY' lace charm. An asymmetric print on the sock liner and 'Stop and 'Go' lettering on the backstrap all nod to the iconic crossing.

DUNEDIN WELCOMES MOOCHI’S NEWEST STORE

Following increasing demand from the growing Moochi fanbase in New Zealand’s South Island, Moochi has opened the doors to its new Dunedin store, ‘Signal’.

Alongside a loyal South Island online following, Moochi has celebrated success with its Christchurch, Nelson and Queenstown stores. The new Dunedin store takes up residence in the Meridian Mall George Street allowing, after much anticipation, the city’s minimalist dressers to finally experience in person the sophisticated ease and signature service Moochi is renowned for.

Moochi Signal exudes a familiar yet uniquely Dunedin feel, drawing on the sense of community and collaboration at the heart of the Moochi story and taking inspiration from its local surroundings. The store’s name is attributed to the city’s iconic 393 metre hill.

Set amongst the bustling heart of

Dunedin’s CBD, complemented by a curated mix of contemporary shopping and dining, the street-facing store aptly reflects the Moochi effortless aesthetic. This is thoughtfully achieved through a monochromatic neutral colour palette, clean lines, built-in solid shelving, metallic accents, and wide open spaces. Designed in-house, it projects an airy yet welcoming ambience, in keeping with the brand’s wider principles of refinement, comfort and ease.

With customers at the heart of the Moochi team’s decision making, opening the newest South Island location in Dunedin was a natural choice, according to Moochi’s founders and directors Kellie and Chris Taylor.

The brand’s customer experience places a strong emphasis on personal

styling. Customers can expect one on one styling, tailored to their unique and ever-changing needs, with experienced styling assistants always on hand.

“After a challenging past year, our Dunedin store is a momentous achievement. It’s a testament to our team that's worked tirelessly to bring the concept to life and our customers whose loyalty and enthusiasm encouraged us every step of the way,” said Alex Phillips, Head of Retail and Merchandise at Moochi.

According to Phillips, the Dunedin community has been incredibly welcoming and enthusiastic about the arrival of the new store.

The Moochi Signal store is located at 285 George Street, Dunedin.

Graphic prints just got interesting

Large graphic prints are all the rage. Designers across the globe are opting for a single large bold graphics instead of geometric prints. The key takeaway from this trend is go big or go home. The bigger, the better.

Palm Angels presented a range of highly saturated colours with their feature print being this image on a simple slip dress. The teal colour similar to Mara 11-189 and the neon pink like Mara 6-984 are carried throughout the collection.

The Alexander McQueen Spring 2023 show launches into action with a bold eye graphic angled across the body. This collection was filled with almost all monochromatic looks with this eyecatching design slashed across the garments. Bold, exciting and extremely saturated, the red eye in this look is very close to Mara 5-364.

Utilising vivid colours, Roksanda’s RTW Spring collection for 2023 focused on flowing garments. In punchy warm tones like Mara 5-351, these silk scarves were screen-printed with a bold graphic inspired by feminist artist Pipilotti Rist.

2019 LVMH Prize winner Thebe Magugu showcased their RTW Spring

2023 lookbook titled Discard Theory. Starting off strong with this denim graphic printed onto silk. This collection was inspired by his trips to South Africa’s second hand markets. Injecting a dose of luxury textiles and prints, the base of this look is quite similar to Mara 7-3889.

Unlike the other collections, Christian Wijnants started off his presentation with colour blocked looks and rarely threw in a pattern until this bold print came down the runway. In a hue like Mara 3-815, this unique face design covers half the body and is meant to exude serenity. Wijnants explained that the collection was inspired by going to the beach at the end of summer. “You’re a little bit dreamy, you’re very happy.” He continued to add that it is a moment of serenity, when people are at peace with themselves.

Louis Vuitton not only made a point of using oversized graphics, but also giant hardware such as zippers. Leaning more into couture than ready-to-wear, this collection is extraverted, maximalist, and loud. Pictured here is one of the more tame menswear looks featuring a large graphic of a leather belt in a hue close to Mara 12-687 across the torso and thigh.

CAUGHLEY

CAUGHLEY opened in October 2015, after owner Rachael Caughley found herself wanting to be back on the shop floor. Rachael worked at Slick Willys in Dunedin while studying, and after university spent a couple of years in the Shanghai e-commerce industry.

With no formal training in buying, at Caughley Rachael tries to stock brands that are a little different.

“We are focused on great cuts, fabrics and service. Making people feel great in what they wear each day.”

Having met most of the designers behind their stocked brands, the team at the Wellington boutique are personally invested in the product they are selling. A lot of care and attention is put into their stocked items.

When looking at designers, Rachael focuses on their understanding of how women want to feel when they get dressed each morning. Quality, marketing, branding, passion and detail all stand out, along with making sure

the brand truly aligns with the retail space. She advises designers hoping to be stocked in unique retailers to be prepared, with pricing and terms and conditions as well as an aesthetic that sits well within the shop.

“If you are a small brand, make those terms and conditions favourable to the retailer. Come with what you can offer the retailer, how you can help the retailer, what benefit is your brand going to bring to that retailer…”

At Caughley, the boutique does not necessarily follow seasonal trends when considering its stock list. Though recognising that customers want coats, boots and knitwear in winter and dresses, sandals and t-shirts in summer, Caughley stocks international brands that do not always align with the New

Zealand seasons.

Buying numbers also vary between brands, depending on what Rachael sees as suitable for her store. She seeks variety in styles, rather than adopting a singular essence and feels that trends in general are on the decline.

“I want to buy less and buy better for the store. We don't want to pigeon hole ourselves too much. People definitely want comfort and are more casual. But I still think there is room for those special pieces and for dressing up! ”

Rachael’s experience in e-commerce has set Caughley up well for the growing online presence of the retail industry.

“Online and Instagram are such massive parts of retail these days. You just can't exist or grow a business without them.”

Rachael Caughley

When looking at designers, Rachael focuses on their understanding of how women want to feel when they get dressed each morning. Quality, marketing, branding, passion and detail all stand out, along with making sure the brand truly aligns with the retail space.

Price Inflation Trends Impacting Retail

1. LUXURY HANDBAGS ARE MORE EXCLUSIVE

The price of luxury’s status symbol, the woman’s handbag, is showing an upward trajectory compared to previous years. The average selling price in the market to date in 2022 has experienced a 10 percent increase vs. 2021, and 12 percent vs. 2019. Fendi is one brand driving this elevated pricing architecture. Bags at the label described as being a “Baguette” silhouette have noted an 18 percent increase compared to 2021, and 16 percent to 2019.

The luxury market has more flexibility to raise prices on best-selling bags and trends in high demand due to customers in this segment being less likely to be as impacted by inflation as the rest of the population. Additionally, the bags category is subject to higher price hikes due to their intricate construction and expensive textiles. They also hold cult backing and are seen as a lucrative investment. (fig.1)

2. KIDSWEAR PRICES FREEZE

Traditionally, recessions haven’t impacted the kidswear market as heavily, with cash-strapped parents still willing to splurge on their children. However, price freezes are becoming a common trend among childrenswear retailers, with Marks & Spencer and Primark holding prices on selected

Nike Dunks and Fendi Baguettes. Where have prices gone up, down, and stayed the same?

products across the recent back-toschool period.

UK brands are faced with new guidelines regarding affordable schoolwear and, coupled with the cost of living crisis, are largely maintaining/ reducing top line school uniform pricing. The proportion of own-brand schoolwear in stock falling in the full price bracket of £5-£10 has increased from 18 percent to 23 percent, while the £10-£15 price point maintains the greatest proportion of products. On a category level, the significant decline in the average price of school dresses can be attributed to a shift in assortment composition, with the percentage of styles priced between £5-£10 growing 18 percent. (fig.2)

3. CHALLENGES FOR BIG-TICKET FURNISHINGS

With the cost of living crisis dampening spending confidence, buyers have pulled back on bigticket homeware items. Research by BRC-KPMG found a steady decline in furniture and electrical sales. Home appliances are experiencing significant shifts compared to last year, absorbing price inflation from shipping and materials. (fig.3)

Analyzing the current average prices of this category across selected retailers reveals a 75 percent inflation in US prices, and 30 percent in the UK, YoY. Bloated price points combined with a predicted rise in electricity and heating bills over winter, mean retailers can expect appliance sales to be challenged for the remainder of the year.

Meanwhile, the home office market has been battered by discounts as customers return to work and demand dries up – with consumers having already established a WFH space during the pandemic. This time a year ago, only 13 percent of US home office items were advertised as being marked down, with discount depths averaging 21 percent. Now, 31 percent of the ranges are reduced and discounts are 7pp deeper YoY. (fig.4)

4. DENIM PRICES FLUCTUATE

Record high cotton costs caused major denim players to lift their prices towards the end of last year. This market is still feeling the consequences, with denim jackets bearing the brunt of inflation – they are priced higher than

(fig. 3) (fig. 4) (fig. 5)

last year in the US market by 12 percent and by 50 percent in the UK market. Ongoing demand for Y2K-esque trends

has led retailers to elevate denim skirt prices by 21 percent and 66 percent in the US and UK, respectively. (fig.5)

There has been a development in this category, with jeans currently priced below 2021 averages – 6 percent in the US and 13 percent in the UK. Several retailers have reported inventory challenges, with misjudged consumer interest and more frugal spending leading to more aggressive markdowns. Data reveals jeans have been on the receiving end, with retailers using summer sales to clear through excess inventory. Between July and August, the markdown levels on US denim jeans were 7 percent-10 percent deeper than last year. Throughout 2022, the proportion of discounted denim at UK retailers exceeded last year’s levels, while by the end of summer, products were slashed 19 percent more. (fig.6)

Recent dramatic weather shifts, including the floods in Pakistan and droughts across the US, have damaged cotton fields, which will lead to further price unpredictability. Retailers need to reconsider their reliance on pure cotton for future denim ranges and explore sustainable alternatives, such as deadstock, Circulose fibers and hemp blends to navigate lower costs and minimize their environmental impact.

5. SNEAKER HYPE RAMPS UP

Out of the analyzed trends, sportswear isn’t seeing such broad price variances as other areas. Loungewear’s waning status, and a return to more formal dressing, have made US leggings 4 percent more affordable than a year ago. The average selling price of sweatpants and hoodies dropped between 1 percent-3 percent. Sneakers continue to become more expensive, particularly at UK retailers, which have raised prices by 9 percent YoY. (fig.7)

News circulated that Nike would be adding an extra $10 to the price tag of Dunks, which has since been refuted. However, sneaker price increases are inevitable as the cost of rubber has increased 32 percent in the first quarter of 2022 vs. early 2020. Combined with surging oil barrel prices and trade tension with Russia, retailers can anticipate higher costs for petroleumbased fabrics, highlighting the innovation opportunities to move away from crude oils and synthetics to more eco-friendly options. (fig.8)

Customers are not yet deterred from spending. Sneakers experienced a 56 percent jump in majority SKU sell outs market-wide over the past three months YoY. Still, retailers shouldn't bank on demand to keep rising with prices, particularly as customers are

(fig. 6) (fig. 7) (fig. 8)

squeezed for groceries and gas costs. Incidentally, the generational appeal of sneakers from an aesthetic and comfort perspective could see lower-

income earners, like Zoomers and older shoppers, priced out of the market, creating an opportunity to evaluate entry-priced products.

SISTERS ON LONDON

Sisters on London is a small boutique destination shop, run by a motherdaughter duo in central Hamilton. The boutique's focus is on small concise collections that have been handpicked for women. From teenagers to the more mature lady, they hope to provide all with quality fashion.

Le Rogers started the boutique with over ten years of experience in fashion retail, however, buying was something completely new to her. She considers herself to still be learning on the job, but her keen eye and adoration for fashion has certainly helped the selection of her pieces. Rogers's favourite part about buying is being able to add some of her own personality to the store, what she would call a ‘street edge feel.’

When looking for designers, Rogers puts emphasis on quality and sustainable fashion. Because she

selects smaller capsule collections, most of her labels tie in with one another and you won’t see many multiples of the product. Sisters on London will occasionally follow seasonal trends but places more emphasis on great classic pieces and wardrobe staples.

In-store price points vary at Sisters On London, they stock streetwear and higher-end luxury brands, but no matter the price tag, Rogers confirms that she loves all the pieces they buy. The store has been in Hamilton for about 15 years, with Rogers only taking it over three years ago. She

has noted the positive changes in the industry, particularly when it comes to sustainable fashion.

Covid restrictions made Rogers more considerate in her buying. She tried to ensure that her product was exactly what she wanted and nothing less. With lockdowns on the decline, she hopes to see a reduction in the loungewear trend, with customers wanting to dress up and get excited about fashion after being stuck inside for so long.

Rogers would love to chat with any potential designers and encourages them to get in touch at le@sistersonlondon.co.nz

How Retailers Can Weather Climatic Shifts

From heatwaves in the UK to flooding in Australia, here are some considerations for retailers' assortments as temperatures reach new extremes.

MAJOR WEATHER INFLUENCES

La Niña

The El Niño–Southern Oscillation (ENSO) is one of the most critical climate phenomena as it can change the global atmospheric circulation, influencing temperatures and rainfall. It can be in three states: El Niño, the warming phase; La Niña, the cooling phase and neutral, where sea surface temperatures are close to average.

Meteorologists have predicted a third consecutive year of La Niña this winter, dubbed a “triple-dip.” If it continues into next year, the US could see worsening drought conditions, an increased fire risk and a dry winter in the southwest, while the north might experience cold and stormy weather. In Australia, La Niña’s forecast spring arrival will spell three months of heavy rain across the east, which is already experiencing severe flooding. In the UK, cold conditions for winter are expected to intensify.

Heatwaves

This summer, the UK endured a severe heatwave as temperatures reached a record 40C (104F), resulting in the Health Security Agency issuing its first ever level four heat-health alert. During this time, there were droughts and wildfires around the country, which led to an increase in

hospitalizations and the disruption of public transport disruption.

A study by World Weather Attribution stated that the heatwave was made at least ten times more likely because of human-caused climate change. As temperatures rose, a clip of a GB News meteorologist warning skeptical anchors of the severity of the heatwave went viral, accruing 1.2 million views on Twitter as Netizens were quick to point out the lifeimitating-art parallels with the film Don’t Look Up.

RETHINK SEASONAL PHASING

Consider close-to-season options

The ideal time for Northern Hemisphere retailers to drop swimwear has been identified as being early March and late April. However, as summers grow hotter, there is an opportunity to tweak

assortments to ensure product availability closer to season, in order to maximize full price selling. This approach to seasonality was suggested at the height of COVID as retailers were urged to rewire the fashion calendar, a notion that has since been abandoned.

Pent-up demand for vacations led to swimwear experiencing strong sell outs year round, spiking in July in line with temperatures. On Instagram, ThisMerchLife shared customer sentiments that by the time heatwaves hit, limited swimwear was available, key sizes had sold out and seasonal products had been prematurely discounted. Meanwhile, retailers promoted cold weather apparel as the bulk of new season outerwear landed the same week as swimwear sell outs reached their peak. (fig.1)

The unusually warm weather is already proving detrimental to Pre-Fall 2022 ranges. 66 percent of UK outerwear that arrived since June has already been reduced, with an average discount of 41 percent, while in the US, 53 percent is marked down at an average rate of 43 percent. This is a stark contrast to the proportion of discounts taken this time

last year when only 9 percent of UK and 12 percent of US new outerwear was marked down. (fig.2)

Meanwhile, the reverse seasons in Australia result in fall/winter products traditionally dropping between January and March when it is still warm, influencing Q1 sales. As the region continues to be plagued by wet

weather, sell out patterns are changing. While early deliveries are necessary to introduce newness into ranges and stay competitive, product flow should be reserved for when the demand for seasonal products happens, especially as climate change could make La Niña-like conditions more frequent. (fig.3)

(fig. 1) (fig. 2)

(fig. 4)(fig. 3)

THE IMPACT ON SELL OUTS

US

New dresses selling out between May and July surged 106 percent YoY, with cotton midis and maxis resonating with overheated Americans. Despite the warm weather, trousers outsold skirts and shorts for womenswear, making up 28 percent of bottoms sell outs vs. 16 percent a year ago. Interest in linen trousers, wide-leg silhouettes and cargos supported this growth. Shorts were the top selling style for the men’s bottoms category, accounting for over half of sell outs.

UK

Dresses maintained their position from last year as the top selling women’s category for UK retailers over the high summer period. For menswear, accessories jumped to second place behind tops, up from third in 2021, with sell outs fueled by new summer hats and

sunglasses. The heatwave also boosted demand for women’s sandals, which experienced a 228 percent increase in market-wide sell outs YoY.

Australia

As torrential downpours replaced Australia’s typical mild winters, wet weather apparel became highly sought after. Sell outs of new puffer jackets increased 84 percent YoY across women’s and men’s wear. Boots made up 10 percent of women’s footwear sell outs for May-July 2021, rising to 16 percent this year and overtaking sneaker sell outs by 3pp, with longer boot silhouettes having performed well.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR INVESTMENT

Expand technical fabrics in ranges

Heat regulating apparel will become even more important to your consumer

as temperatures fluctuate and energy bills rise. These items are prevalent within sportswear, yet lacking when it comes to everyday garments. Of the products in stock, 57 percent are described as having moisture-wicking properties, and 63 percent of waterproof styles sit within activewear.

With absorbent qualities common in tailored shirts, tops make up 55 percent of moisture-wicking options suggesting room to explore cooling materials for less-invested in categories over summer, like sleepwear. Consider lightweight, porous materials such as bamboo and micromodal. Due to demand for Gorpcore, water-repellent properties are commonplace within outerwear, making a case to extend this finish to bottoms and tops. (fig.4)

MAGGIE MARILYN SYDNEY FLAGSHIP OPENING W

COINCIDES WITH LATEST FOREVER CAPSULE

Acclaimed Kiwi designer brand, Maggie Marilyn has opened its first, highly anticipated, international retail destination in Sydney, Australia.

The new boutique neighbours some of Australia’s most prominent and successful fashion houses in Paddington’s celebrated ‘The Intersection’ precinct. The new store will join Maggie Marilyn’s two New Zealand ‘Homes’ in Newmarket and Britomart.

Founding designer Maggie Hewitt described the expansion of the brand’s brick-and-mortar stores as “pivotal”.

“Maggie Marilyn’s mission to realise a socially and environmentally responsible fashion industry won’t happen without the support of our global customer,” Hewitt said.

“Our ‘bricks and mortar’ Homes are pivotal to educating our customers about our brand pillars–it’s about building and nurturing a community

that will champion the collective good we are seeking.”

The new flagship space’s interior layout was brought to life by Interior Designer Alexandra Ponting of AP Design House. The designer wanted the intimate dining space to speak to The Intersection neighbourhood’s defining heritage Victorian architecture and the planet conscious values and initiatives of the Maggie Marilyn brand, showcasing Italian mid-century furnishings in solid walnut timber, organic stone floors, and a natureinspired palette of sage and darker green hues.

“I adopted a ‘less is more’ approach for Maggie’s new Home - the directive was underpinned by the romance of investing in hero vintage pieces, to

create theatre and intrigue in a mostly minimalist-inspired space,” Ponting said.

An inviting dining table intentionally anchors the room and according to Ponting, vintage décor pieces were sourced as a priority.

Hewitt described the intimate dining room experience as ‘golden’, and suggestive of an invitation to share food, laughter, and stories.

“The right kind of dining table is also the birthplace for some of our most honest and important conversationsholding space for hard questions and uncomfortable truths. As we continue to propel the climate crisis conversation, we will continue to invite our community to take a seat at the table with us,” Hewitt said.

The new Sydney retail destination will showcase Maggie Marilyn’s celebrated range of circular, traceable, evergreen essentials, SomewhereandSomewhere Man, as well as the highly coveted, limited-edition Forever capsules of elevated, season-less pieces that are mindfully designed to cherish now and forever.

The new store’s launch coincides with the latest Forever capsule, inspired by the sartorial choices a woman makes when she wants to look stronger than she feels. The capsule consists of shades of slate grey and tangerine, signature knot detailing, an Italian wool mini skirt and the return of Maggie Marilyn’s It’s Up To You Dress in three hero colours.

The Forever capsule is for those who find themselves becoming hardened by the state of the world or when the consequences of bad decisions, made with good intentions, start to feel terminal - when a person wants to wear something that envelopes the body. Blazers, coats and fabrics of a certain weight or significance reached for when a person feels wobbly. Comforting, not suffocating - a coat special enough to wake the wearer back up to the goodness in themselves and others and offer a reminder that underneath that coat belongs a person who found the courage to start over or start again or, simply, start.

To celebrate the new international store opening, the Forever capsule’s campaign features faces of the brand’s Australian friends and longstanding fashion peers and supporters. Captured by photographer Dan Roberts, the campaign was shot on the streets surrounding the new Sydney flagship in the Paddington district. Offering a visual representation of the emphasis Maggie Marilyn places on community and occupying physical spaces, the campaign is also a reminder that ultimately, the brand creates clothes for real women with all the complexities and challenges of living through modern times.

Maggie Marilyn’s new Forever capsule is available in stores and online at www.maggiemarilyn.com

Maggie Marilyn's Paddington store is located at 13 Glenmore Road, Paddington, Sydney.

Maggie Marilyn’s mission to realise a socially and environmentally responsible fashion industry won’t happen without the support of our global customer.